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I have an HP Pavilion a1250n. I just recently bought a Sound Blaster X-fi Elite Pro (PCI) sound card to use with it. When i insert the card into the PC and start it up, the pc does not boot (or post). I have the same exact problem with a NEWER Nvidia (PCI Express) card.

The problem: When I boot up the pc with any of those two cards in, the screen stays black (The monitor does not wake up from standby). When the pc runs normally and i start it up, the fans will kick in for about ten seconds and then rev down to it's quieter speed. When either of these two cards are in the pc, the fans just stay on and rev high. The processor light stays either on (solid) or blinking rapidly.

These two cards work fine in other computers. the sound blaster works fine in my HP Pavilion a450n, which is at least four years older than the a1250n. The BIOS is SET to default, the internal sound card is on (auto on/off) and works fine (i'm using that as my primary sound right now, by the way.) The sound card itself has no jumpers, but it does have an auxilary input/output and some other wierd plugin. The motherboard has two jumpers, if that helps anyone.

If anybody could help me with this problem, it would be greatly appreciated What are the specs on your Pavilion?MBoard drivers? ?
Any Yellow ? marks in Device Manager ? ?HP Pavilion a1250n

Operating System: Microsoft Windows XP Professional (5.1, Build 2600)

System Model: EG194AA-ABA A1250N

BIOS: Phnoenix - Award BIOS v6.00PG

Processor: AMD Athlon(tm) 60 X2 Dual Core Processor 3800+, MMX, 3DNow (2CPUs)

Memory: 1534MB RAM

Directx Version: DirectX9.0c (4.09.0000.0904)

Power Supply: Earthwatts - 500 watts

There are updates for some of the components. 31 optional updates to be precise, but i don't want to have pay for a program to update it all.

There are no question marks or exclamation points on any of the components in the device manager.Quote

There are updates for some of the components. 31 optional updates to be precise, but i don't want to have pay for a program to get rid of it.

Earthwatts: 500w. power supply

I have an Acer Aspire 3683WXMi (1.73 GHz, 533 MHz FSB, 1MB L2 cache)laptop bought 2007 with windows vista basic. I have C: and D: hard disk drives which were working fine until a few days ago.

I had all my pictures on D: drive and I decided I was going to move it to C: drive so I copied all my files, only to find that it took up too much space on C: drive so I moved them all back. I dont know if it was this or something else, but when I next TRIED to access D: drive (as in, going into My Computer and double clicking the icon) it was taking forever to load, and the address bar kept flicking as it was loading (you know when you double click something and the address bar fills in green as it is loading - well it was filling in very slowly and the colour was flicking).

I tried Ctrl Alt Dlt but nothing happened. I tried to click out of the page and an error message occured saying windows explorer failed and was going to close. It did close after that but my laptop was still acting slow and taking forever to do anything so I had to pull the power. I started it in safe mode and everything was working so I took all the files off D: drive, I defragmented it, checked for errors, did the whole 'system restore' thing and finally reformatted restarting my computer in NORMAL mode each time to see if it worked but nothing did.

I'm still no able to right click it or anything without windows explorer failing and my computer basically freezing. When I went to delete the pictures off my USB (the pictures that created the problem in the first place) a message came up that a file called 'thumb' should not be deleted or it may cause some programs not to work, so I skipped that file when deleting it thinking that maybe i had somehow taken this file off D: drive and that was causing it to not work. However, the file wasn't visible on my usb, and i searched my usb for hidden files but nothing is there and D: drive is still not working.
Help!If you INTERRUPTED a Copy or Move transfer your data may be gone...
I don't understand the 2nd operation you tried when you say you emptied D: to a USB device...what kind of device and how did you "move" them ? ?oh ok so when i went inot safe mode, i cut all the files out of d; drive (because in normal mode d drive wouldnt OPEN and i couldnt get to them at all) and pasted it onto my kingston data TRAVELLER usb stick thing.

yea i dont know, i was thinking that maybe when i had originally tried to move the pictures from D; drive to C and then back again i had done something that made d drive stop working. but i have no idea what i could've done, and i dont thnk i interrupted the transfer, i moved all the files and then found out it took up too much space so moved it back.

Got home to an odd problem. My computer does not start at all. I'll press the power button and NOTHING will happen. The only sign of power is that little green LIGHT on the MOBO. I put in a different power supply, and nothing happened so it can't be a power supply problem. That leads me to think it is a mobo problem?

Any others thoughts? Yes, all the plugs are in the right spots.

Thanks

PatYears ago when I replaced my Motherboard, I didn't connect the leads from the power button to the Mobo correctly. So if you say they are connected right, then that shouldn't be the problem.

Try following this trouble shooting GUIDE first;

http://www.ehow.com/how_113600_troubleshoot-computer-wont.html

Or this ONE has a similar but different way of going about it;

http://pcsupport.about.com/od/findbysymptom/ht/wontstart.htm

Otherwise, I'd probably replace the Motherboard, but if you can, try and borrow one or get one out of another computer that is compatible with the rest of the hardware in this computer you are having problems with.

I created 2 partitions on my C drive with Acronis Disk DIRECTOR a few months ago and now I want to undo that so my C drive is just 1 partion. I cannot get the Acronis software that I paid ~$50 for to re-install on this drive with new operating system (Vista)correctly. Is there a way I can combine these partitions using Disk Management? I don't believe that Disk Management has the capability to do what you want.

What is happening when you attempt to install the Acronis software? Official Acronis Support ForumQuote from: Eg0Death on October 30, 2008, 12:52:50 PM

I don't believe that Disk Management has the capability to do what you want.

What is happening when you attempt to install the Acronis software?

wouldn't it have to be already installed for you to make those partitions anyways?

Official Acronis Support Forum

I think Acer PCs have a thing with partitions. Is this the same PC? Because if it is, wouldn't it have to be already installed for you to make those partitions anyways?

So I got what I wanted mostly, but what happened to the other 17.12 GB of drive space?

I had logged in to my laptop RUNNING WINDOWS 2000, but it was too low on batteries and it shut down. When I charged it a bit and started it up, it did the standard Windows 2000 loading sequence, and then goes to a BLUE screen error.

Code: [Select]*** STOP: 0x0000007B (0x81667030, 0xC0000032, 0x00000000, 0x00000000)
INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE
I didn't move the hard drive. It tells me to run CHKDSK /F, but I can't (due to windows not starting). I also can't format or use boot CDs due to the CD drive not working.

It is an IBM ThinkPad i Series Model 1161 - 52U. The CD Drive sticks out a bit. If I push the button, it doesn't open unless I push the drive in a bit, then the LIGHT will flash green and it will open. It will also not read any CDs put in, regardless if I push in the drive or not.

Thank you for reading this!CD drive stopped working, when the error occurred, or it NEVER worked?
What do you mean by "sticks out a bit"?That's a removable CD drive...press the button; remove it all the way and put it firmly back in...

Well thanx for the vast amount of DETAILS you have provided today...
Do you want this issue solved ...or is this just a guessing game ? ?I WOLD like to get this system up and running
thinks JDQuote from: jd6158 on January 31, 2010, 07:27:14 PM

I wold like to get this system up and running
thinks JD

i wanted to change the pointer settings and got this message C:\windows\cursors\pen_r.curfile, which contains the "handwriting" cursor,is missing or corrupt . WOULD extracting the file from installation disc do anything? i have not REMOVED or altered any of these FILES. thanks i tried to extract the file, but says i typed invalid characters in the to be restored box c:\windows\cursors\pen_r.curfileproblem SOLVED, found site that had cursor files for download and extracted files to cursors folder. A lot of those sites have VIRUSES. Be careful!scanned at virus total first all good. thanks for your reply!!

Please help me...

Last week, while I'm surfing the net I've noticed that my PC have no sounds. I've CHECKED the Control Panel-> Sounds and Audio devices but it says that there was "No Audio Device". I also try to see if the Volume Control is working, but it isnt. When I'm trying to access the Volume Control an error prompt tells me that:

QUOTE

"There are no active mixer devices available. To install mixer devices, GO to Control Panel, click PRINTERS and other Hardware, and then click Add Hardware.

This program will now close."

I recently plugged in a WD 500GB external hard drive "the book" to help me with my itunes issues. The LAST 2 times SHUTTING down WINDOWS XP, it begins to shut down but the blue screen remains saying windows is shutting down. IS this related to the external drive? Never used one before, also got a menu prompt on the DRIVER but didn't load any of the options.

Im WORKING on a cheap NEW computer.. i play WoW and
im new to this and i DONT know which one of these 2 cpu's are better or if they are even close.. which is better would you say and how do you know?


HTTP://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116072

vs

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103210I'd pick the Intel, but it depends on the rest of your system, budget, etc.

I am LOOKING for a $50 (USD) graphics card, either for a NEW PC I will build or a system upgrade.
*I will encode video in HD (To make video tutorials)
*I need PCI Express (Either the old one or 2.0)
What is the best $50 Video Card?If you're just encoding video, what software are you using that takes advantage of the video card? I'm not aware of any but I don't encode video.
In GENERAL, for $50 your best bet would be something LIKE an ATI 4650 or Nvidia 9500GT.
Hope this helps

Hi there

I recently finished my FIRST gaming PC build, first game I got was Sims 3, installation was fine, it opened up fine but around a minute in... it crashes and I have to restart the computer.

I have a 3.0GHz E8400 Intel processor
ATI Radeon 5770 GPU
Asus P5Q Pro Turbo Motherboard
500 Watt High Power Power Supply

I can run other GAMES such as SPORE and Sim City 4 fine with no issues.

I have all latest drivers and the GPU is recognised by my computer fine.

In side the actual PC itself, the GPU is slotted in firmly, but can be wobbled very slightly.. which could be something.

Any suggestions as to resolutions? Thank you very much.A vid card shouldn't be able to "wobble" even slightly...
Hold down screw in place ? ?
Where is this copy of the game from ? ?
That may be an issue as well...There is a place to screw it in, but it would mean FORCING it into place which I don't want to do.. unless it would be ok to do.

And it's a 100% legit copy. from www.ebuyer.comDon't understand why it would need to be "forced" into place...all cards have the same form FACTOR for being installed...
Are you saying there is another card in the way ? ?

when i start up my computer it starts to load then goes to a black screen and says OPERATING system not found... my hard drive is connected to the computer but keeps telling me it did not find any hard disk drives.. when i try to do a PRIMARY hard disk self check it says "no ide device" found i checked it out online and tried to fix it by copying the set up disk onto a blank DISC like a site i found told me too but still no luck.. is there anything i can do or am i destined to buy a new hard drive??
ideas please...
thanksIs this a laptop or Desktop?

If it's a Desktop computer, have you opened it up to see if the Hard Drive is hooked up properly?its a lap top.. an hp pavilion dv6500
and ive already TAKEN the hard drive out and re connected it again many times. no luckWas this laptop dropped ? ?
How old is it ? ?naw i just turned it on one day and it just didnt work.. could i have gotten a virus or something cuz its fairly new.. only a year old if that...Is it still under warranty?i have no clue.. i just wanna know if there is any other method i can take in trying to fix it or am i going to need to buy a new hard drive??A virus will not cause this issue...
Does anyone you know work on PC's that could assist in removing and re-connecting the HDD ? ?
Laptops can be tricky to work on and shouldn't be taken lightly.
Your Owner's Manual should have instructions on HDD removal.

EDIT: If it is less than a year it is still under Warranty...attempting to fix it yourself may VOID this warranty so check this first.
Getting it into a shop would be the best alternative.i dunno im not computer retarded im pretty handy with them i just wanna know if there are any methods i could take in tryin to fix it. everything i have tried LEADS me nowhere.. a couple times i thought i fixed it but it ends up saying theres no hard drive connected..As i said consult your Manual...
First thing i would try is removing and re-seating the hard drive.

He says he's removed and replaced many times, to no avail.

Have you checked your BIOS/Boot Menu? Is it set up to load from a hard drive that doesn't exist, or another drive?

my printer is an HP Deskjet 1500.

I had brand new ink cartridges when I started. first time I printed the photo I had the wrong setting so it ended up printing out small but it had the right colors.
now everytime it prints, it prints the right size but it has a red TINT to it.

I've tried running diagnostic page and had the cartridges cleaned.

I tried using MICROSOFT OFFICE picture manager to autocorrect it and renamed it to a jpg file.


now that I've done a few sheets on this one photo my color cartridge has now only a little more than half left but that should be enough right? there's plenty of black left still btw.

I've never used this printer before for photos btw and I was able to print photos perfectly with the one I had before..so I'm kinda thinking it's the printer but idk.Have you contacted the manufacturer of the ink cartridges? Also what type of ink cartridge is it
?QUOTE from: Avooc on February 01, 2010, 04:53:15 PM

Have you contacted the manufacturer of the ink cartridges? Also what type of ink cartridge is it
?

I have a keyboard and mouse that both have 6. Pin DUCTY connecters.

If I buy an extantion for them will that slow down the speed that they talk to the computerNo.Unless you really get carried away, extension cables are fine. Like any CABLE there are length limits, but it's pretty long. I've used several of them and had no problems.What I meen is my computer will be about 15 FEET away from the Keyboard and Mouse and I thought that would be to far for the Duchy extantion cords for the mouse and keyboard to WORK without having a long dely?Just 15 feet is no PROBLEM. Did you MEAN 15 miles?

I just had to CHANGE a cartridge that HP tool BOX said was at 80% less than 20 pages ago. I got a color cartridge is missing error. I tried a couple of old cartridges that I knew were dry on at LEAST one color and they all showed up.


Also is there any way to rejuvenate cartridges that have just set around too LONG?


Thanks for looking and double thanks for any help.

MODS please delete my first post in other.

I have a HP PAVILION HDX9300 Notebook with the MATSHITA BD-CMB UJ-120 optical drive.

I had no problems burning DVD's until now. However I can still burn CD's and I have no problems playing DVDs/CDs. I made no major changes to the OS before this occured. Ive tried burning with several different applacations and it still fails.

I have done the uninstall/re-install of software and hardware/drivers.

My system is up to date on everything

I installed a Linux OS to a USB stick. I booted the laptop off that, ran the installed burning application and it failed again.

I get the same errors with MULTIPLE OS's and multiple Software Applications

Windows/ImgBurn > 12:37:28 Close Track Failed! - Reason: Unable to Recover TOC

Ubuntu/BraseroBurn > CLOSE DISC failed with SK=3h/UNABLE TO RECOVER TABLE-OF-CONTENTS]:

Any IDEAS? Hardware failure?

Thx RichIt LOOKS like DVD burning laser is out.

uhh this is a slight problem I bought a new flat screen monitor LCD 19". for my cousin, when we plugged it in to the video card it came up for a few seconds then went out... every time we start it the same thing happens. The computer is an old E.machine that came with a PCI express card. please help I guessing that the card doesn't support LCD but i don't know and don't want to waste more money What OUTPUTS are on the video card?

What inputs are on the monitor?

And which have you tried so far?

As far as I know all computers support LCDs.1. Does the video card work with another monitor (e.g. an "old" CRT)? Or conversely, does the LCD monitor work on another computer system?

QUOTE from: DeathMetalGamer on February 01, 2010, 07:30:29 PM

I bought a new flat screen monitor LCD 19". for my cousin, when we plugged it in to the video card it came up for a few seconds then went out... every time we start it the same thing happens.

I have a 4 GB transcend pen DRIVE. I used it at my office and when I wanted to delete some data from it ,it shows drive is write protected. I have an updated antivirus named guardian (from Quick Heal) and this application found no error on scanning. How my pen drive will be usable again properly ? Please help me. It has to be a setting in the drive itself or a switch on the outside.

What type of pen drive is it? Long, short, or skinny?i have same problem please anyone help us1. This link looks promising: How to remove write protection from USB flash drive.

Basically two different registry EDITS are presented:

a. My Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\StorageDevicePolicies. Double click on the STRING "WriteProtect" and change the ‘Value data" box from "1" to "0". Intuitively, it seems logical to set write protect off.

Another post suggests if the "WriteProtect" string doesn't exist, then just create it and set it's data value to "0".

b. My Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\USBSTOR. Couple of posts in the thread say change data value of "Start" string from "3" to "0". I don't know what functionality the "Start" ENTRY controls.

2. REFERENCE(s):
a. http://www.ghacks.net/2009/04/03/usb-flash-drive-write-protection/

Why do allmost all (or a lot) (semi-) pro sound studios use Apple ?
People tell me to switch to apple (A GOOD one) but when I ask them why they can`t tell me accurately what`s so much better...
I run Vista,a M-Audio 2626 soundcard and Pro-Tools (The D.A.W.) on a 2 Duo CPU (Intell,2.66Ghz)...
I would love to HEAR from someone who has made the switch what the difference is...(Even better if they use Pro-Tools)...
Please help,the Apple I would buy is quite expensive and it`s stupid to SPEND so much money if there is no or little difference...
I must say that if I run Omnisphere (Plug-In Synth) and a chain of COMPRESSORS,limitters ect. ect. my computer does really have to work hard...

Please help,all the best;ERIC....

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hello all
I am experiencing a problem installing my hp c4480 all in one printer,when i bought in new it installed fine replacing the f2180 I had before ,which I uninstalled before the new INSTALLATION !!I have only used it to make a dozen or so copys when it started to play up -so using the cd rom supplied with device i uninstalled it and tried to reinstall it ,but kept getting installation error 2753 ,msi.dot4wrp.
I have spent hours trying to resolve this and I need some help as HP support has got me know where having tried all of there support SUGGESTIONS (total PANTS )
I have read forum suggestions to delete files from system 32 and regedit which i have looked at and found lots of the suggested files to look for hpz/hpq/hpx ,
My question is should i delete all of the files even if in other formats ,,eg hpq HPq HPQ /hpz HPz etc etc,,also I have found some HPQ files but the date added,is well before this new printer (about the time of the OLD hp printer) I found in sys32 Driver store- file repository?(DELETE TOO?)
One of my concerns is that I am operating a HP laptop ,so am worried about deleting files for the COMPUTER instead of the printer.
I will appreciate any help ,as when you buy something you expect it just to work ,and this has been ongoing since nov 2009 .
regards peterYou've already posted this question. Posting more than once will not help.

Hey everyone, My computer worked fine until I UNPLUGGED it and went to turn it BACK on and nothing happens now. I am not sure if it is the power supply or whatever tells the power supply to turn on. How can I determine what my problem really is? Thanks! What happens when you try to turn it on?

Why did you unplug it?

Did you unplug it when it was powered down?Thanks for your reply, When I try to power it on the button clicks and that's it, no SOUNDS of a fan trying to turn or any sign of power. I shut down the system and then unplugged it so I could take my monitor from this computer to another one momentarily. When I PLUGGED it back in, nothing. I checked the cord on my other computer just to make sure that wasn't the problem and it powered up my other computer just fine. Thanks for your helpI would say it's a problem with the Power Supply Unit.

There was a way of testing it but I don't know how.Yeah, it does sound like the power supply. For future reference, there's no REASON to pull the power cord unless you are going to open the box.

When I turn on my computer, the CPU and monitor, there was no beep and no screen display. What shall I do to repair the problem? pls help! thanksYou need to provide more informationWhen i turn on my computer, there i DIDNT hear a post beep and nothing could be seen on the monitor. I thought it was a monitor defect, so i change the monitor, taken from another running computer but still and turn on again still i couldnt hear a post beep and the monitor wont display. Any idea what particular DEFECTS on my computer? please help and thanks.Quote from: madz on January 30, 2010, 10:48:36 AM

When I turn on my computer, the CPU and monitor, there was no beep and no screen display. What shall I do to repair the problem? pls help! thanks

If you have a prebuilt computer (e.g. A Dell), what model do you have?

If you build it yourself, what motherboard do you have?


We need to know this so we can try reseting the CMOS.

Are there any online courses that are designed to formally teach computer hardware repair? I love this site because there's LOTS of answers here. But I'm looking for something that systematically teaches computers. ONE course I came across is " Be Your Own IT". Does anyone know any good or bad qualities about that course or can you recommend others?
Thanks,
RayExplain what you mean by, "computer hardware repair". Are you saying you want to know the fundamentals and theory of computer hardware and how different components work, and how they affect one another?

Or do you literally mean hardware repair. As in FIXING a damaged CPU or RAM module?www.helpwithpcs.com SEEMS to be a very informative site, with free courses offered.

*edit*

Maybe not quite what you're looking for. But still lots of helpful info.Be Your Own IT reminds me of those info-mercials you see on late night TV.

I'm not saying it's a bad product, but usually people pay for the product and shipping and handling, just to find out everything that was included COULD be found on the net for free.

They're basically charging you for finding the info, putting it all on one or two discs, and shipping it to you.

If you dig deep enough, you can probably find something much more worthwile.I mean like the first part of your reply "the fundamentals and theory of computer hardware and how different components work, and how they affect one another" And thanks for the info you already gave me.google info about getting a A+ Cert.


http://www.comptia.org/certifications/listed/a.aspx

Thank youCheck this site out also.

http://www.professormesser.com/BrainBench.

SO this past Christmas I was at HOME and bumped my external hard drive (ROCK brand) off my desk and it stopped working. I opened it up and found no solution so I began my quest for a new hard drive. I found one on eBay (ACOMDATA brand) that the seller sold for dirt cheap because it WOULD not turn on due to a faulty enclosure (from the description it seemed as if the drive would be salvageable). I thought maybe I would be able to open up the new hard drive and remove it and connect it to my old hard drive enclosure.

Once I GOT the Acomdata hard drive I tried plugging it into my old enclosure and it sound like everything starts up but once I plug it in, the computer recognizes it in the "remove usb safely" icon in the LOWER right but it wont recognize the drive in My Computer.

Two questions for you guys:
1. Is there some way I can locate the drive and use it as intended as a storage device?
2. If I cant do that mean there is something wrong with the hard drive? Can I not use one brands hard drive on another brands enclosure? Should I look at buying a new enclosure from Acomdata? Any feed back would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!Right clik My Computer...select MANAGE...then Disk Management...
Does it show up there ? ?
If so right clik it and select Properties and report back with your findings...It does show up, im assuming, it is the only thing listed. I right clicked on it my only 2 options were delete volume and help. The rest of the options were grayed out. any more suggestions?Properties was not listed ? ?nope, just grayed out. any more suggestions? things I can do from this point forward???Try it on another machine.

Help-Computer geniouse---NOT.
Please have READ every LISTED DETAIL on printer-Tools/Maintenance box-Pop up keeps telling me out of black ink ?.
Cannot find link on Printer properties, that will allow me too replace ink cartridge-
Please help anyone.. http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&fcategoryid=2610&modelid=15294#DownloadDetailAct

I have a Dell Dimension 4700, 2560 RAM, 160GB HD OS-WIN XP Home.
Recently GOT the Blue SOD screen on Booting up. I used the Dell diagnostics CD to do tests, & it listed 2 errors relating to th HD. I suspected a HD failure, as it is over 5yrs old. I bought a simmilar replacement - a Seagate Barracuda 7200-12, 500GB. Now when i try to re-install Win XP it starts of OK, but when it reaches the POINT where the T&C acceptance should APPEAR, I get this erroe -STOP C0000221 Windows unknown hard error/system root/system32/NTDLL.LL. I have attempted loading WINS with an alternat CD, but I get a simmilar reaction, it gets to the FORMAT stage & then just stops without any errors.Does the drive have jumpers on back for switching between 1.5 and 3.0 Gigabits/sec? If your motherboard does not support the 3 Gigabit standard you might have some trouble with it and you'll need to set the jumper configuration to the 1.5 setting... Look on the label on the SATA drive itself, to determine the jumper pin setup... DON'T USE BOTH 1.5 and 3.0 AT THE SAME TIME.If it's 5 years old it's unlikely it is a 3.0G MODEL...

DLoad SeaTools diagnostics and run the long test...Quote from: patio on January 20, 2010, 09:48:19 AM

If it's 5 years old it's unlikely it is a 3.0G model...

I whiped a Dell Dimension 8300 ... and re-installed a clean version of XP Pro which was on it originally. I dont have the driver disk, and the ETHERNET driver wont install ...

I have done alot of RESEARCH and it seems like alot of other people have this ISSUE ...
...I have went to the DELL site and got that driver, but it doesnt work
What was used to reinstall Windows?My windows disk. You need to be more specific.
Full version Windows XP CD, or some recovery CD?You need to install the CHIPSET driver first, then the other drivers. Get it from the Dell Website.http://support.dell.com/support/downloads/driverslist.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=gen&os=WW1&osl=en&catid=&impid=&SystemID=DIM_PNT_P4_8300

I want a Dual Monitore setup with good visual aids for a person with LO vision. Myself. My presetn setup works in XP, bt not in Windows 7. I have a G450 from Matrox WITHT eh Matox POWER desk software. Here is a screen shot:

(Two displays, LEFT is zoom of right.)

MICROSOFT Magnifier also works, not is harder to use. I like the features of the Mat ox software, easy to use and less eye strain.

What is needed here is a good AGP card to give me not just two displays, but the software to easily zoom in on any part of the primary screen.
Do you have any recommendation?

Hi

I Need A Graphics Card For O:)HEAVY GAMING

Presently I Have palit nvidia 9400 gt

I Want to Know That Is 9 series (9400,9800) Better Or ATI's 4800

Dont Ask Budget ! It Could Be A Lot

The absolute best gaming card is ATI's 5970.
Does that help? http://www.evga.com/articles/00514/Quote from: patio on February 01, 2010, 03:13:47 PM

http://www.evga.com/articles/00514/

The fact that the 9600 uses a different GPU entirely then the GTX 240 kind of precludes the latter from being simply a faster version of the former.

I didn't say it was. I said it was a little faster than the 9600GT. Sorry to have confused you, I didn't realise I wasn't clear enough.
And, not to be nit picky, but it's a GT240.

I also don't understand how driver optimizations and programming shortcuts come into this discussion. The ATI 5970 is the best performing gaming card currently available to my knowledge, however if I'm incorrect I apologise and will gladly stand corrected, I'm always willing to learn. I can understand that yes, sometimes drivers are optimized to "cheat" on certain benchmarks, however if a card performs better across the board, I would call that better performance. Whether this is due to a technically more capable card or better drivers is largely irrelevant as far as I can see, again though I'm willing to stand corrected.

Louis, I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship.

a few nvidia cards:


GF 9500 GT GF GT 220 GF GT 240 EVGA GT 240 SC GF 9600 GT GF 9800 GT
Shader units 32 48 96 96 64 112
ROPs 8 8 8 8 16 16
GPU G96 GT216 GT215 GT215 G94 G92
Transistors 314M 486M 727M 727M 505M 754M
Mem Size 256/512 MB 512/1024 MB 512/1024MB 512 MB 512/1024MB 512/1024MB
Memory Width 128-bit 128-bit 128-bit 128-bit 256-bit 256-bit
Memory bandw 25.6 GB/s 25.3 GB/s 54.4 GB/s 57.4 GB/s 57.6 GB/s 57.6GB/s
Core Clock 550 MHz 625 MHz 550 MHz 550 MHz 650 MHz 600 MHz
Memory Clock 800 MHz 790 MHz 1700MHz 1800 MHz 900 MHz 900 MHz
Shader Clock 1400MHz 1360MHz 1340MHz 1340 MHz 1625MHz 1500MHz


The fact that the 9600 uses a different GPU entirely then the GTX 240 kind of precludes the latter from being simply a faster version of the former.

ATI 5970:


transistors: 4308
interface: PCIe 2.1 x16
max memory: 2048
Core Mhz: 725
Memory Mhz: 1000
Texture fillrate: 116
Pixel fillrate: 46.4
bandwidth GB/s: 256
mem type: GDDR5
memory Bus width: 2x256
DirectX: 11
OpenCL: 1.0
OpenGL: 3.2
GFLOPS: 4640
TDP Idle: 51W
TDP max: 294W
Features: Dual GPU solution on single PCB, Angle independent anisotropic filtering, Eyefinity



certainly a excellent card by any means.

However, is it the best? that certainly depends. Without a perfect understanding of how the GPU and various memory pipelines work with various cards, it's impossible to come to a conclusion that has no chance of being superceded when new information becomes available.

A prime example is the fact that many manufacturers "cheat" on benchmark tests, just as they cheat on WHQL certification. How do they do that? quite simple; the driver simply looks at the program that is running, if it's a well known benchmark app, it "enables dubious optimizations" to increase it's score. cheating at WHQL is even easier; they simply package the driver in an installer that sets a key to not enable any form of optimization; this prevents any sort of issue, and WHQL doesn't care about pixel fillrates or anything like that, but only wether the driver works, they get a passing score. then they package that exact same signed driver into another installer that sets a registry key to enable dubious optimizations, optimizations not tested by the WHQL, of course, so they get the best of both worlds.

Now, this practice is not something you see today, but on the other hand, it's impossible to tell. perhaps they simply made these "dubious optimizations" less obvious? perhaps when one card simply edges out another, we should consider that maybe the card that seems to perform better is really taking shortcuts.

Yet another example; back in teh early days of windows 95, when DirectDraw was just taking shape; for the most part, everything worked. but for some cards, DirectDraw would completely bork when using certain features that the video card claimed to support. The cause was in fact that the driver was ALWAYS saying it supported the feature. Basically, a certain driver function was called, essentially, "doessupportfeature" and the driver was simply returning true no matter what.

MS had to workaround the laziness of these shortcut takers. One of the DDraw dev team members took a seldom used PC on campus, generated a GUID with it, smashed the network card (thus guaranteeing that that GUID will never be generated again) and made a function that called the "doessupportfeature" function of the driver with that GUID. basically, if it returned true, then DirectDraw would go, "AHA! caught you! now I'll never believe what you say" and took a careful route that avoided any non-standard features the driver otherwise claimed to support. This had far-reaching consequences for the driver manufacturer, who, originally probably made the function in the interest of "optimization" and now finds that all the stuff they actually do support is no longer being used because directdraw has confirmed that it cannot trust the driver. So they had to rewrite the driver to actually flesh out the function to work properly.

What does this have to do with the topic? well, not a whole lot, but it goes to show that the performance of a card weighs heavily on the quality of the driver itself; a newer card can be outperformed by an older one simply because they are using different drivers.

Of course, in this case I don't think anything could outperform a ATI 5970, but given that you have to consider wether the manufacturers are *really* not cheating at benchmarks or wether they simply are able to hide it a lot better? nobody can really tell...

Also, I better mention that some of the above re: directdraw stuff was from Raymond Chen's excellent book "the old new thing".

ATI 5970

With regards to a card being better then another; consider the following scenario; let's say we have, manufacturer A and manufacturer B.

manufacturer A releases their "top of the line" graphics card. Manufacturer B does as well.

Now, the manufacturer A card is technically superior in every possible way.

But Manufacturer B's card outperforms it at everything.

So everybody buys the B card.

Then manufacturer A releases a driver update that fixes the bugs in their driver that were causing the issues; and bam, it's now, like, 2 times faster then the B card.

That's basically what I mean; the driver itself is merely the software side and that is easily changed later on; the cards themselves remain constant, so if a technically superior card is set back by shoddy drivers, this can often turn around if the vendor releases an updated version. I wasn't really saying that this was the case for the 5670, just that saying "X card is the best" is not always true.

I have even heard that there are motherboards where you can plug-in multiple grafics cards,I believe AS-Rock make such a board(The P-55M Pro......I think)(And there must be many more).....

Wish you all the best,good luck:Eric..................


I believe the ATI version is called Cross-Fire,but you`ll have to look in to that...

I Will Go With It

Thanks For That BC...

Thanks For all Those Who Helped

i bought a WD caviar Green HDD, that came with Acronis for Western Digital bundled backup software. i created a bootable CD using the bootable media build component in the Acronis software. when booting the CD it does not load the Acronis recovery software -- it displays error messages, e.g. "unable to load initial linux kernel" or "unable to run boot menu, press enter to continue" or "unable to load initial ramdisk, press enter to continue" etc. therefore i would like next to try to create a usb thumb drive as the bootable media. can i do this, and if successful, how do i set up my phoenix award bios to boot from the usb thumb drive. the only other option is to create bootable media from 47 floppies, or create an .iso file but i don't know how that is supposed to work yet. does my bios allow to select a usb thumb drive as the boot device?
What method was used to create the CD ? ?>Acronis bootable media builder is a component of the bundled s/w package. that is what i used.
It works FINE on this end...try a different brand of blank media.
Or greate the boot CD on another machine...
Any other issues with this CD burner ?Agreed - just try again. Acronis True Image is one of the most reliable pieces of software you'll find - and it's an invaluable backup tool.thanks, you turned out to be correct, but i am not sure it was bad media, since acronis finished the procedure "successfully" -- but when i switched to a CD-R [Windata from MicroCenter] from a CD-RW [Memorex, purchased a couple yrs. ago during a period of bad batches coming from far east factories], the "successful" procedure was truly successful, i.e. it booted and loaded TI for WD on both my PC and my laptop ODD. maybe there is a hidden feature that does not allow a successful creation on a rewritable CD?! after all, i would assume the operation has verified that it is a success before its confirmation msg? after TI for WD loaded i was able to call up the wizard and various procedures. however,

my "testing" of the recovery procedures on my HDD and backups led to an interesting question you may have come across:

after i ran the acronis boot CD i created, i tested the restore procedure. i had selected a sector-by-sector .tib backup file for the restore. at the point of selecting the destination partition to restore to, the pgm provided an additional option: to restore the MBR and track 0 as well. are there any circumstances when you would recommend not to restore the MBR/track0? i was pondering that if i was restoring a disk that was not brand new, i might want to omit the MBR restore first, and then see if the disk was fully recovered, and, if not, then to go back and restore the MBR as a second step? any experience with this?

When I want to restore an image I never restore the mbr - only the partition. And when you create an image ALWAYS select VERIFY. It takes longer, but it's worth the trouble.Also you want to store the image files on a partition that does NOT normally get defragged...image files HATE this...
I found out the hard way.Quote from: Allan on January 31, 2010, 04:47:45 PM

When I want to restore an image I never restore the mbr - only the partition. And when you create an image ALWAYS select VERIFY. It takes longer, but it's worth the trouble.

No registration required...
The image you created is already registered and functional.....swapping a HDD won't trigger the activation process.

I have been happily and successfully making money running a Creative soundblaster Audigy4 Pro for 2 years in my home studio to record voiceovers, audio newsletters, etc. A couple of months ago I downloaded a recommended driver update from Creative and now nothing works. Grrr. Creative are no help (my card is out of warranty and they have made it quite clear that they are not interested in my plight) and I do not want to buy another of their products. I need a new card, and my needs are pretty basic ... full duplexing is required, otherwise just one mic- voice only. I am running XP SP2 and I would appreciate any recommendations you may have.
Thank you
Neil ROthers will be along shortly with some recommendations...
In the meantime why not just revert back to the original drivers ? ?I have tried everything I can think of. Restoring to earlier time, uninstalling and reinstalling ... nothing worked. I have had to use Revo UNINSTALLER to get rid of the software and the card is now litter on my desk (it is for sale, cheap, if anyone wants it!). The major prob is that my income is now severely affected and I have to replace the card soon.
RegardsRemove all software related to the card in Add/REMOVE software...
Power down.
Physically remove the card.
Do a few cold boots.
Re-install the card...re-boot and when it asks for the drivers direct it to the driver CD that shipped with the card.Hello,if you make money from your soundcard it is nice to spend a bit more...I run a M-Audio 2626 together with Pro-Tools and find that the best combination for the money...A lot of the better cards have programs allready installed on or together with the card...Like ABLETON,Pro-Tools,Reason ect. ect. It`s nice because you get a "lite" version FOR FREE and if you like the program(D.A.W. Digital Audio Workstation)you can upgrade to the full version...(At a cost)...But the nice THING is that where you seem to use it for you only need the lite version...
If I were you I would buy some good magazines read a lot on what`s out there and go to a GOOD shop...I must warn you if you WANT you can get carried away with D.A.W.`s (You can go as far/expensive as you want...
I wish you all the best and good luck:Eric....

[Saving space, attachment deleted by admin]If you can't fix the issue, end up needing a new card and want to stay away from Creative's hit and miss drivers (great when they work but very frustrating when they don't as you have found out) I'd recommend an Asus Xonar card. Many flavours are available in both PCI and PCI-E interface versions with varying features etc, the basic DS model is a good budget choice.
I don't use my PC for professional audio or any recording other than a microphone for voice chat so I don't know what's good and bad for recording features if I'm honest, but just thought I would throw the suggestion in there, something to look into at least Thank you guys.
I really appreciate your responses. I particularly resonate with comments about Creative's 'hit and miss' approach.
Undoubtedly they make great products, but the experience I have had with an out-of-warranty issue simply turns me off them forever. I am a salesman, and I learned long ago that after-sales service is critical to the ongoing success of any business. Creative have failed me, and I will let everyone know how they treated my questions with total disdain.
I will now spend some time following up on your suggestions. My busy season begins in two weeks and I am confident that I will be ready.
Thanks again
I am no big fan also...A lot of show and no things you really need...

All the best,I hope you find what you need !!!

P.S:I do KNOW you can get a very nice card(perfect for allmost everything)for around $150.-...AND if you look around you get the software for free !!!

[Saving space, attachment deleted by admin]Quote from: neilrnld on February 02, 2010, 10:33:35 PM

Thank you guys. and girls
I really appreciate your responses. I particularly resonate with comments about Creative's 'hit and miss' approach.
Undoubtedly they make great products, but the experience I have had with an out-of-warranty issue simply turns me off them forever. I am a salesman, and I learned long ago that after-sales service is critical to the ongoing success of any business. Creative have failed me, and I will let everyone know how they treated my questions with total disdain.
I will now spend some time following up on your suggestions. My busy season begins in two weeks and I am confident that I will be ready.
Thanks again

im not gonna be using it as my standard drive, i just want to know if its possible to transfer my pc data to the one in the enclosure kit, then take the one that i transfered the data to and put it in my pc with no problems.

Tried it in a SLOT called PCI-E x16_2 and it told me that it was in the wrong slot so have moved it back to the original x16_1. No joy (
I think I might be cursed!I'm really not sure, what else to advice you, short of TRYING another MONITOR, or a faulty card, straight out of the box (it happens).No worries mate, you've been a fantastic help.
I think I might have a spare monitor cable lying around the house somewhere, I'm going to give that a go too. If that doesn't work I'll CALL the tech support at the place I got it from tomorrow morning and if there's nothing they can do, I'll back it and get them to send me a new one out.

Thanks again for all your help!Quote

I'll call the tech support at the place I got it from tomorrow morning

when i turn on the computer the FANS work a little light in FRONT lights, the monitor turns on but states no connection,,,but no boot,can you tell whats wrong,,i REPLACED the cmos battery hopeing this would solve the problem but didn't,,
also when last on the screen went black and a bunch of stuff stating a physical dump with a counter on the bottom going up numbers, i turned the power off hoping i just turn it back on but then nothingWelcome to the CH forums.

We don't even KNOW what kind of pc we're dealing with here, could be a laptop, notebook, desktop, super alcohol cooled version for navigating space missions to Mars.

Please read this and post back with some helpful info. Also, please clarify. Is it:
"...the fans work a little light in front lights..."
or
"...the fans work a little light in front lights..."MY computer is hp windows xp. and yes power on the fans work and the little light comes on in the front, put the monitor states no input and after a little the light in the front goes out, it sounds like it want to start up but only here a few clicks and quits,
just replaced memory as an idea but it didn't help'Quote

MY computer is hp windows xp

I am suspicious of the POWER supply but uncertain. Panel led lights up when power is connected. Front led screen lights up but circle slash action when hitting power button. I have never had power supply problem b4 and this is new. I replaced motherboard and no different. What are the chances of getting 2 bad mother boards. What about the CPU. Shouldn't something HAPPEN. beep, fans, something. Please help, I was really jazzed about adding this to my home theater, with plans of many upgrades. Am depressed now just thinking about it.Double Post. This appears to be a CONTINUATION of: new computer won't boot.

Please don't create "new" threads for the same problem. (Responders are likely to miss some of the information - like I just did!) Please continue in the ORIGINAL thread.

Hello,

I'm new here and I haven't found any previous posts about this PARTICULAR issue:

I'm wondering if anyone here knows of a way to get a desktop monitor to DISPLAY my laptop in Safe mode.

1. I've had a freak accident, 1 hour ago: the LCD screen on my SONY Vaio VGN-CR590 notebook, Vista business, 32-bit got cracked. The notebook is off-warranty, I contacted Sony anyway and they had no idea on how to help me.

2.I've connected the notebook to my old desktop screen since I've done this in the past, and it works out fine, except for this time because, the desktop monitor only seems to display the notebook's desktop after Windows loads, which isn't HAPPENING because looking at the notebook screen, it looks like I'm getting a BSOD, I tried restarting in Safe mode, but I can't see what I'm doing because the desktop monitor says there's "no signal" then goes completely black.

3.I've tried every Fn + F... combination, nothing works.

4.Sorry about the painfully long and boring post, I'm a bit desperate here...

Cheers,

A.


You might do it blind.
T run on power. Witch keyboard lights.
Tap the f8 key about once per second for five to ten seconds.
Wait about ten seconds. Tap the home key twice. then hit the return once.
Wait for Windows to boot.
Then turn on the VGA output. On my laptop it is Fn + F7, but yours will be different.

I'll try. Thank you. Hi again,

Tried it, no result. I didn't mention the screen sizes before as the notebook is 14.1" and the desktop is 15", so I didn't think adjusting the desktop monitor's settings to the notebook size/res. would be a factor.

I know it's a long shot, it's just that my gigantic puppy landed his ARSE on the notebook just as I was taking a quick break from writing a very important school essay...


Thanks again,

A.

If they didn't have that one you could just buy any 4 wire adapter and splice it in but by the time you do that you would just as well off to buy a new $10 fan with the 4 pin on it to begin with. I saw a couple of fans on bestbuy's website that said they came with the adapter. If you have a RadioShack they might have the adapter.There are a couple of PC shops here in town that I could check out. I kind of REFRAIN from going into those places. I built a system a couple years back, a total $1800 was spent on all the hardware and Vista 64BIT OEM. I wanted to sell it, and the most they would give me was $300. He said he could only get around $400 for it. I guess i'll suck it up and go see if they got what I need though. They did just expand the business and the owner got himself a new Benz, so they must be makin' a killin off of those $400 ($1800) systems.How could I have forgotten about Radio Shack? Quote from: cruisin702 on February 04, 2010, 12:19:08 AM

Ok I hooked mine up and it hasn't shut off yet. Everest is showing it at 950 RPM with core temps at 20C and Mobo temp at 23C. I couldn't find anything in BIOS.

Ok so I tried to remove my CMOS battery, I GUESS I must have lifted it up and it went back into place. I just wanted to see the model number

I restarted it, got a "Battery is low volatage" message for the first time, and now everytime I try to sign onto msn, it says "No connection found". Also, for a few websites, I now get the "DO YOU UNDERSTAND THE RISKS?" page, have to agree to it, add the exception, and THEN the page works

Everything else is fine. I know I have to replace the battery, but there are 2 slots holding it down...I can't even take it out. I have a Dell Dimension 4500s

Will this problem go away once I replace the battery? I don't get the message on EVERY site, only a few. Also the MSN thing is annoying...

Thanks a lot!This is from your computer's manual

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim4500s/replace.htm#1139899

Also, make sure that you are grounded to the computer's CASE the whole time you are working inside of it. Static electricity can fry your motherboard!Also, why do you think that you NEED to replace the battery?

Do the website WARNINGS only happen in Internet Explorer? Do you have another web browser?The # on a CMOS battery is usually facing up and doesn't need to be removed...
Part # CR 2032...available anywhere.

My Dell Inpspiron 1440 Displays a messasge that says,"internal hard disk drive not found to resolve this ISSUE try to reseat the drive." the computer is only about a month and a half old. I need help!Given the recent acquisition of the Dell 1440 (assuming a new purchase) it still is WELL within the warranty period. My recommendation rather than trying to deal with the issue yourself i WOULD first contact either the store where purchased and/or the Dell TECH support and explain your issue. Makesure that you have your receipt of purchase on hand. Dell should either assist you by telephone to solve the problem or have you return it for repair/replacement. Be firm with whomever you deal with and insist on prompt assistance. Let us know how things work out in case we may be of further assistance. truenorthSince it's new the cables may be a little loose. Open the box and make sure all cables are firmly connected.allan this is a laptop.you may wish to RETHINK that suggestion.truenorthOops Indeed - thanks for catching that.

I am wondering if my CPU is running at its best. I am new to this KIND of stuff with a computer, and was wondering if someone could give me some info. Here are screenshots from CPU scans that i just did.

[Saving space, attachment DELETED by admin]Looks as if your FSB is not set correctly.
You can see it's running at a 100MHz bus, should be at 166MHz - therefore your processor is running at 1.1GHz as you can see, where it should be at 1.8GHz.
If you go onto the motherboard tab in CPU-Z and post another screenshot, we'll be able to see what board you have and then give you the steps to fix this issue.
Hope this helps The 2nd capture indicates it is at 200Mhz...Here is a motherboard screenshot, i think

[Saving space, attachment deleted by admin]Quote from: patio on February 01, 2010, 03:11:53 PM

The 2nd capture indicates it is at 200Mhz...

Here is what the box tells me.

DFI LanParty NFII ULTRA
P/N AN8101-0

If you need anything else about it...i can see what i can find on the sticker on the box.

Confusingly there isn't a standard way to refer to these speeds, hope this clears things up a little.

DFI LanParty NFII ULTRA

Looks as if your FSB is not set correctly.
You can see it's running at a 100MHz bus, should be at 166MHz - therefore your processor is running at 1.1GHz as you can see, where it should be at 1.8GHz.

Seems like you're making some assumptions here, since he has not stated what Athon XP processor he has. I have an Athlon XP 2200, which runs at the rated clock speed of 1.8GHz with FSB speed set at 133MHz in the BIOS. So, the multiplied (2x) FSB speed is 266MHz.

Well, there sort of is.. You will generally find that the cpu core speed is a multiple of the "external" fsb speed. When the term "FSB" is used with out the word "external" it almost always refers to the double-pumped speed of an AMD cpu, or the quad-pumped speed of an Intel cpu..

...Comparing the two screenshots/programs there is no standard way of referring to the FSB or bus speed, whichever you want to call it. Also, different people call it different things, so although there may in actuality be a standard way of referring to the speeds, I rarely see the terms used the same way consistently.

I have a PROBLEM everytime i start my new custom pc the cpu fan and the normal fan spin but only spin once then stop. The only things i have installed are the

Prosessor
CPU Fan
Normal Fan
RAM

Any ideas?For a minimum test you also NEED video, keyboard and mouse connected...
Some boards will shut down if even 1 of these is not detected on boot.Yea but it has a intergrated graphics card.Still needs to be connected to a monitor...along with a keyboard and mouse.Ok i tried again turning it on without a monitor and mouse and keyboard connected. . I tried removing the ram and now the fans run for longer for about 40-50 seconds longer but then they cut out. I tried readding the ram but then it goes back to to 1-4 seconds but then i readded them and still the same i dont know what the problem is helpp:)Looks like you might be having the same issue as me. I'm hoping the solution will be to buy a power adapter that allows me to plug my fan directly into the power supply.

Are you saying your CPU fan STOPS also?Quote

Ok i tried again turning it on without a monitor and mouse and keyboard connected. .

I have a HP omnibook xe4500 w/ pent 4 256mb ram 30g h.d. running a fresh install of windows XP home edition. the computer types "uuuuu" continuously. All diagnostics come BACK clean and device manager shows no errors or conflicts. Could this be caused by a BIOS ERROR or is there a another reason for it.
Thanks HandymanBoot a DOS FLOPPY. What does it do?
well i TRIED to make a floppy for it but it is the only comp i have assembled with a floppy drive and with it continuously typing the uuuu i cant get to the hp site to burn it and it wont RUN from the cd drive for some reason or copy from the cd drive to the floppy
thank you for your time.
Handyman

I just built my NEW computer that IVE been dreaming of for the last year. I noticed that my intel q9550 is being reported by windows as running at 2.5 ghz, as opposed to the 2.83 stock/factory standard its SUPPOSED to be running at!

I loaded default BIOS settings, but the problem remained. Can anyone please EXPLAIN to me why my PROCESSOR has decided to spontaneously UNDERclock itself?

Sorry, Im freaking out right now.

Thanks for any HELP,
Image

I have a dell 1525 LAPTOP, worked perfectly until tonight. When I power up,
after about 2 seconds the SCREEN goes blank with a flashing cursor in the upper left
CORNER. I cannot boot in safe MODE, no response to my hitting the f8 key. Any
advice would be welcome, my first thought is failed hard drive, but let me KNOW what you
think.

D

Quote from: neelchauhan on January 31, 2010, 07:22:26 AM

I Recommend you avoid a Inspiron 530 because it produces too much heat. I recommend you also get a new case and mobo for the GTX 295.
If you want to use the GTX 295, get a 750+ Watt Power Supply.

Specifications
Output [emailprotected],[emailprotected],[emailprotected],[emailprotected],[emailprotected], [emailprotected],
[emailprotected],[emailprotected],[emailprotected],[emailprotected]

Ignore that last post. There are six +12V Rails, four of which are PCIe. You can use either both 35A rails, or one 20A and one 35A if thats all you'll need. I was up way past my bedtime lastnight. Or should I say this morning.

PC Power and Cooling is an excellent resource for more info on making a buying decision...
You don't have to buy 1 of theirs but you will learn quite a bit about what you are paying for...

Do you think a 295 GTX will fit in that case? (which by the way is a cool looking case)

I ordered all my parts at the same time this past Friday morning, (2am), and I got them all today around 1pm CST I think. My case and PCU came from Cali, and all the rest came from Tenn.

One thing I have noticed, is that, the RAM I ordered is PC2-6400 at 400GHz according to CPU ID. I ordered PC2-5300 at 667GHz. Thats what the other two 512MB sticks are that are already in the system, so I just went with that.

Do you think it's worth the hassle of returning it and hope they send the right speed? Or will it even make that much of a difference? My system doesn't seem to mind the difference in speeds right now, but I don't wanna have to put up with it later if it could cause problems.