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Has anyone heard of an unwanted program called PrcViewer? It has popped up in my WINDOWS\SYSTEM32\PRCOCESS.EXE. Umm, yes i have, Trojan i would presume, i got rid of it straight away when i saw it.I was not sure if I should delete it or not because ever since I put in a new security system on my computer I have been having problems with the computer not connecting with my printer program. I think it thinks it's an unwanted program and I thought this PrcViewer might have something to do with it. If you think it is a trojan though then I NEED to delete it.It may or may not be legit...have you recently ran the SmitFraud Removal tool ? ?

I would travel to our Virus and Spyware section and follow These Instructions for posting the logs.

Malware removal is BEST left to the Experts.PrcView: http://www.teamcti.com/pview/prcview.htm is a legit program, which actually doesn't require INSTALLATION, so it resides WHEREVER you put it.
PrcViewer, which creates PRCOCESS.EXE file located in C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM32 folder is a malware.
So, in any case, follow PATIO's advice.

Here are specs for the system with the broken RAID:

CPU: AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 6400+
Motherboard: Gigabyte M57SLI-S4
RAM: DDR2, PC2-6400 (400 MHz), 1024 MB, G.Skill (x2)
DDR2, PC2-6400 (400 MHz), 512 MB, G.Skill (x2)
OS: XP, SP2
HDD: Western Digital Caviar SE WD1600AAJS-60PSA0 149.05 GB (x2)
Video: EVGA e-GeForce 8800 GTS 320 MB (PCI-Express)
PSU: Rosewill 600 W

The OS is installed on the RAID 0 volume for performance. Something breaking the array, so this performance is now gone.

After the "standard" POST the system attempts to detect the array. It HANGS there ("Detecting array . . . ") for a few minutes before "0 ERROR NVIDIA STRIP" is displayed.

I press F10 to enter the RAID utility and see the following:

-ARRAY LIST-
BOOT STATUS VENDOR ARRAY MODEL NAME
BBS ERROR NVIDIA STRIPE 298.10 G

When viewing DETAILS of the array:

-ARRAY DETAIL-
ADAPT CHANNEL M/S INDEX DISK MODEL CAPACITY
1 0 MASTER 1 WDC WD1600AAJS-60PASA0 149.05 GB
There are options to Rebuild, Delete, or Clear Disk.

Rebuilding is not an option as only 1 of the 2 disks in the array are detected.

I'm GOING to use a spare ATA HDD to boot the system and then test the hard drives. I will post more as developments occur.

What parts all and all require cooling of some form? Hypothetically, if I had a heat absorbing tools (be it stock, liquid, thermoelectric, etc.) and each tool was applied to individual parts of a computer, and the heat absorbtion of each tool was limited to their specific part, what parts would they have to be applied to. Just off the top of my head the following all need cooling of some sort...active or passive:

CPU
Vid chip/card
RAM
Southbridge
HDD's
Interior of case (ambient)

And of course...the Operator.Also, just wanted to add... USING a small fan near the VENT can help the air FLOW, by pointing the fan away. Wow, hdd's too? I knew they generate heat but i didn't THINK it would up to any thing significant. So are liquid cooled COMPUTERS a combination of waterplating and fan? It would seem kind of hazardous having multiple tubes through the computer for each part.Quote from: patio on January 29, 2010, 07:35:11 AM

Just off the top of my head the following all need cooling of some sort...active or passive:

CPU
Vid chip/card
RAM
Southbridge
HDD's
Interior of case (ambient)

And of course...the Operator.

Wow, hdd's too? I knew they generate heat but i didn't think it would up to any thing significant. So are liquid cooled computers a combination of waterplating and fan? It would seem kind of hazardous having multiple tubes through the computer for each part.

Just off the top of my head the following all need cooling of some sort...active or passive:

CPU
Vid chip/card
RAM
Southbridge
HDD's
Interior of case (ambient)

And of course...the Operator.

I've got two computers right now, and I WANT to upgrade the harddrive in one of them(it only has 40 gigs). I just ordered an 80 gig hard drive, and I want to plug my 40 gig hard drive into the same computer as an external hard drive.

What I want to know is if it is possible to make it combine it with the 80 gig C drive(so that I can install things in the same drive without having to split up different installs to SAVE space.

sorry if I'm not explaining this well, but thank you in advance for any help The best method would be to install the 80 as a slave drive ...Then power up using the bootable CD that shipped with the new 80 and select the "clone" option....
This will make an exact copy of the old drive onto the new80.
When it finishes you power down the machine...remove the old drive...and jumper the 80 to Master and hook it up to the end connector of the IDE RIBBON cable.
Re-boot and you now have all your data; programs and the OS working on the 80G drive.
You can then add the old drive format it and use it for additional storage space...
Any questions we'll be here.

And it's not explained quite exactly well SINCE you mentioned 2 machines...this would be a different scenario.I think I've got it, thanks

Ha guys and gals,

I have to take a trip, going to Tahiti, Tahiti, gosh I would love to go there man o man would that be sweet. I can feel that cool pacific breeze on my face right now, the blue WATER the white sand the smell of conk on the grill and my beatiful wife bringing me a cocktail, Oh I am sorry I nodded off did I say My wife, I am divorced so where was I, oh yea reality this sucks, I have to go on a trip to take care of of some business issues. My COMPUTER room/ play area, it office limits the other kids in the house and the maid.

I living in a hug house with house mates that would love to see my toys.

Thus my problem, I would like to a motion activated web cam that could bring my pc out of sleep mode, this would be enough to get most people out. Then there is the maid who is oblivious to computers she would think it was a space heater, as in really that is true.

Can anyone point me in the direction too learn how to set up a system like this? Man when I go on those tahiti trip like that I get a bit low the picture was taken LAST Thursday this is what I see EVERYWHERE now.
I am using windows 7 ultimate on a regular g network single band linksys router.


[Saving space, attachment deleted by admin]Check out

http://www.x10.com/promotions/xx11a_ed_planetcam_lowestever_burst_cat.html






Go into BIOS of Desktop a set up to turn on again after POWER failure.
Not Windows. Use a a 'Live' CD. Like Ubuntu 9.

I really need HELP with this soon, it's kind of an emergency. Thanks in advance.


Anyway, somehow I managed to really mess up my computer. The guy I bought it off of is really good with computers, & of course I'm not. So, when he was using it, he had two monitors connected to it, & when he sold it to me (I only USE one monitor), it still had the SCREEN settings for two monitors. It hasn't been much of a problem before, but today I was messing around trying to change the color options, & somehow I managed to GET it to go back to acting like it has two monitors...

So, all of my desktop icons are way over on the right side of the screen to where I can't see them. I had to point & click for ten minutes to drag internet explorer on this side of the screen just to try to get help on this.

If I could get to the properties menu, I could fix it, but it's on the other screen that doesn't exist, & I can't find it to drag it back over. Any advice?can tou try monitior menu option?
Quote from: senthilvalli on October 24, 2008, 01:05:09 AM

can tou try monitior menu option?

I was downloading some wireless software and I got an error and I shut off the laptop and try to restart it but since then I am having problem turning on the laptop. I turn it on and I hear noise,the noise is regular sound you hear when you turn on your pc or lapt and see green light but after 15 seconds I see a flash on screen and laptop shuts off. I have checked battery and AC adapter. They are ok..



Few days ago on someone's advise to CHECK memory module at the back of laptopn I just opend the cover of Memory module and I took them out and put back in but if I press there I guess the chip and power on the laptop the same time ,my laptop TURNS on, I see the bios page but if I take my finger of the memory chip,my laptop stop and if I do that like few times sometime laptop turns on without pressing the momoery chip. Some time I kepp the cover open and leave something under the chip so it will be pressed and my laptop stays on for HOURS. I tried to use some tape there but it did not work.I guess tape was not strong ENOUGH to keep pressed.

Is there a way I can fix this? if I buy new memory module, whould that SOLVE the problem?

I don't know much about the computers. Can I fix this problem without spending too much money?

Can someone help me with that?

Thanks

Hallo to all.
I am looking for a good impermeable or underwater clock USB with voice
recorder function, even LIKE that one of the cellular phone, where you
click a button and it REGISTER, but I can't find it.

I need it becuase I've always GOT a lot of idea and things to NOTE so I want something where I can register them and that
I can bring everywhere: in the swimming pool, under the shower, while I am jogging ecc.

You never know when the right idea arrives!!

I bought something like that, the casio DBV 3000, but it wasn't
impermeable .
I bought a chinese one too, it says "water resistant", but when you go
under the water a few humidity passes and the contacts are oxidized
therefore it doesn't works anymore.
Anyone knows a truly impermeable or water proof model?
Any suggestion or link?
Thanks to anyone that can help me.

__________________
You have never see SPAM links removed.

Quote

Waterproof and water-resistant are 2 entirely different things....hope this helps.

Hey, I have Diskeeper and I was wondering if there was a way I could stop it from accessing a specific drive, in this case my iPod. I don't like it hammering on it every 30 seconds or so considering I'd like this tiny harddrive to last as long as possible. I've told it not to defrag that drive repeatedly, even "disabling automatic defragmentation." So if it program is nosy enough peeking at that drive, is there a way to block it from doing that?

It may also be important to NOTE that Diskeeper is embedded as a service, taking over Windows traditional defrag program. So it may be more apt to ask if it is possible to prevent a single service from access to a PARTICULAR drive.The scanning options in DisKeeper are pretty plain...under Tools/Settings you can include/exclude any drive/partition/volume.
Make sure to check the Scheduled Tasks as well.Thank you, I happen to have Diskeeper 2008 and I sifted through the various program options but I didn't find an option quite like the one you described. I did uncheck the "Automatically enable auto defragmentation on newly discovered drives" option though which I hope will prevent it from jumping the gun in the future.

I'm actually trying some other popular defrag programs at the moment so maybe this problem will fade into obscurity. I am trying out a couple freebies I snagged off of Download.com: Smartfrag 2.01 & AusLogic Disk Defrag, both of which were apparently very highly rated and popular so I figured I couldn't go wrong with those two. Anybody have ANYTHING to add? Suggestions? Advice? Criticism?

(I did quite a bit of work trying to determine if DK2008 was indeed the culprit and I'm now sure he is. Filmon.exe gave no doubt whatsoever.)
(Also, I'm not really much of a defrag freak but my laptop drive is unbelievably fragmented right now. I think it has over 600,000 fragments and DK2008 isn't making much headway so I think it's time to try something NEW anyways. That near-solid red disk analyzation almost made me crap my pants.)

And of course, thank you for the reply. It seems it's hard to get anyone to help out these days. Personally i use Auslogics and have for awhile...
I do the defrags manually for GOOD reason...i learned the HARD way that any image program such as Acronis or Ghost the backup image files DO NOT need or particularly like the defrag process...

I have an old gateway desktop that was given to me. I use it as a TV where I work. About a week ago it stopped loading. I would see the gateway logo and then the windows screen would come up and had LOTS of streaks that looked like rain through it. then it would go to a green screen and not do anything. I couldn't even go in in safe mode. So I re-installed windows 98 from the rescue disk. It still wouldn't load, but I got in through the safe mode and took out some of the files that were locking up the virus disk like video games and ACCOUNTING software. I finally got it to work without safe mode, but it asks EVERYTIME I turn it on which mode to start in. When I tried to change the screen resolution and color settings, it always goes back to the 16-bit 640 X 480.

Any ideas? Thanks.can you try enable VGA mode? DLoad install and run Everest HOME...this will inventory all your components and PROVIDE links for drivers...
Sounds like the video driver needs re-installed.
Any problems Post back.

Hey all, first post.

I was hoping for some help with my problem!

Specs:

Custom built
Intel Core 2 Duo 6420 2.13GHz
2gb RAM
GeForce 8600GT graphics card, 256mb

What's wrong is, the heatsink broke so I replaced it (one of the prongs was BENT). Then WENT I went to turn it on, it only made like a sort of quick buzz as the power went on and off very briefly.

I tried this maybe 4 or 5 times then it turned on PROPER. The computer beeped once, then I heard the fans slow down and it STAYED on a blank screen.

So I thought it to be the graphics card, which I swapped out with one of my old ones (a Radeon X1600XT). Surprise, it worked again, but only after that same problem where I had to press the button a few times. It went fine, booted into WINDOWS, and I'm typing this on it now.

Now here is where it gets weird... The graphics card from this computer, I put it into another comp and it worked FINE. I put it back into this computer and it wouldn't start again.

So any opinions? Any help is appreciated!Not sure, but you didn't touch anything by accident when you removed the heatsink, did you?
Was the computer power cable unplugged when you replaced it?What heatsink/fan was used in this build ? ?
Was Thermal Paste applied properly ? ?
How old and what make/wattage is this power supply ? ?

I just got this wireless keyboard and used it for awhile.
Then i tried running a program and it MADE my keyboard keys STOP working except for the top with the shortcut keys. Any HELP? Thanks What Operating System?
What Program?
Can you try another keyboard? (either USB or PS/2)Check the batteries...
MOVE the CORDLESS phone out of the room...

Now what else can I do?Replace it with a brand NEW drive...patio, i'm just exploring options here. With TODAY's ECONOMY, i would like to save those $30 i would spend on a new drive. I checked the connections and no luck, so i guess i will be buying a new drive.

Hi, I have a westinghouse monitor that I hs
about 2 years old,. Until RECENTLY, problems
started to come up. It is rather inconsistent,
for example, it turns on perfectly and
consistently in TV mode, YPBPr, Video and
S-video modes, but turns to a white screen
(not exactly white, but with some dots, rainy
LIKE shapes, sometimes with lines) when you
switch from the above modes to PC and HDMI.
And if you leave it in PC and HDMI modes, it
doesn't turn on consistently. It may turn on, or
turn on 5 min after you pressed the button.
Sometimes the LED blue light looks so dim,
and the screen keeps blinking. In other cases,
if you leave it in PC mode, and plug on the vga
cord, it becomes a black screen and the LED
lights dims that looks like its off, but when you
unplug, the blue light turns back on. In other
cases, if you unplug the vga cord and leave it
like this, the LED light turns orange and
unresponding unless you switch to another
mode.
As I have mentioned above, however, if you
only leave it in TV or video modes, it works
perfectly, consistently and the screen even
comes up perfectly looking normal. But it
becomes random for PC and hdmi modes.
Anyways, I understand that this issue is rather
complicated, please let me know if any other
user of this product have experienced/resolved
this same issue. If you are planning to buy
their product, I suggest you reconsider it,
because their company SUCKS! NEVER
responding e-mails and their phone support
techs are not even interested in your issue if
your product is beyond the warranty.
Thanks!

I KNOW what your thinking... "check your audio settings"... but ALLOW me to explain further, for I am truly baffled as to how I lost these sounds!

ISSUE:
When starting up or loggin in, there is no "Start Windows" sound file that is played. When shutting down, restarting, or logging off, there is no "Exit Windows" sound file played.

MORE INFORMATION:
1) All sounds play normally once Windows is up and running, including the "Start Windows" and "Exit Windows" sounds found under Audio Properties.
2) Both sounds play when signing into my Admin account, just not my personal account that I run under normally. Under the Admin account, I can see no differences in what services I am running or what settings I could have possibly changed.
3) I've changed no settings to my knowledge that would effect ONLY the startup and shutdown sounds.
4) All other programs, such as MP3s, viedos, games, and windows sounds play normally.
5) All sound card drivers are up to date and functional.Type mmsys.cpl in the run box and hit enter. Is the sounds found there what your reffering to as Audio Properties or is this what your looking for? Is there a sound selected for start windows and exit windows?Quote

Is the sounds found there what your reffering to as Audio Properties or is this what your looking for?

Is there a sound selected for start windows and exit windows?

Well, it seems like all my songs and audio files are being played too fast in every single software except Windows Media Player... in there i can hear them ok... But cant with itunes, winamp, real player, other audio PLAYING softwares.. and whenever i send my songs to someone else or store them in my mp3 they cant be played.. too fast... too chipmunk....

I have Windows XP SP3, and my sound card is a Realtek AC'97 Audio (driver version 5.10.0.6300).... Have 384 Mb of Ram.. and an AMD Athlon 64 Processor

Please help Did you try to reinstall sound driver?Yes i already did... 1. In Control Panel, open Sounds and Audio Devices.

2. On the Volume tab, in the Speaker settings area, click the Advanced button.

3. In the Advanced Audio Properties dialog box, click the Performance tab, and then adjust the Hardware ACCELERATION slider control to adjust the clock timing for your sound card.Already tried that... and restarted... doesnt help..
Something to point out... when i PLAY the songs some of them work but it doesn't last long... they get screwed up after a whileI wanna see what audio is listed on your computer...

Download, and install Everest: http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html
Open it, click Computer, then Summary.
In upper menu, go Report>Quick Report-Summary
Save it in text file, and paste it in your next post.
Don't include anything under line Debug - PCI Its in spanish... but i can translate it if you want..

--------[ EVEREST Home Edition (c) 2003-2005 Lavalys, Inc. ]------------------------------------------------------------

Versión EVEREST v2.20.405/es
Sitio Web http://www.lavalys.com/
Tipo de informe Informe rápido
Ordenador PAPA (casa)
Generador Meli
Sistema operativo Microsoft Windows XP Professional 5.1.2600 (WinXP Retail)
Fecha 2008-11-02
Hora 22:34


--------[ Resumen ]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ordenador:
Sistema operativo Microsoft Windows XP Professional
Service Pack del Sistema Operativo Service Pack 3
DirectX 4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
Nombre del sistema PAPA (casa)
Nombre de usuario Meli

Placa base:
Tipo de procesador AMD Athlon 64, 2200 MHz (11 x 200) 3200+
Nombre de la Placa Base Desconocido
Chipset de la Placa Base ATI Radeon Xpress 200, AMD Hammer
Memoria del Sistema 384 MB (PC3200 DDR SDRAM)
Tipo de BIOS Award (05/13/05)
Puerto de comunicación Puerto de impresora (LPT1)

Monitor:
Tarjeta gráfica MSI RADEON XPRESS 200 Series (128 MB)
Tarjeta gráfica MSI RADEON XPRESS 200 Series (128 MB)
Acelerador 3D ATI Radeon Xpress 200 (RS480)
Monitor LG StudioWorks 45V [14" CRT] (121516843009)

Multimedia:
Tarjeta de sonido ATI SB400 - AC'97 Audio Controller

Almacenamiento:
Controlador IDE Controladora estándar PCI IDE de doble canal
Controlador IDE Controladora estándar PCI IDE de doble canal
Controlador IDE Controladora estándar PCI IDE de doble canal
Disco duro ST3160815AS (149 GB, IDE)
Lector óptico ATAPI DVD A DH20A4P
Estado de los discos duros SMART OK

Particiones:
C: (NTFS) 20002 MB (1902 MB libre)
D: (NTFS) 132614 MB (83714 MB libre)
Tamaño total 149.0 GB (83.6 GB libre)

Dispositivos de ENTRADA:
Teclado Dispositivo de teclado HID
Ratón Mouse COMPATIBLE PS/2

Red:
Tarjeta de Red NIC Fast Ethernet PCI Familia RTL8139 de Realtek
Tarjeta de Red RT73 USB Wireless LAN Card (192.168.1.132)
Modem Agere Systems PCI-SV92PP Soft Modem

Dispositivos:
Impresora EPSON Stylus Photo R200 Series
Impresora Send To OneNote 2007
Controlador USB1 ATI SB400 - USB Controller
Controlador USB1 ATI SB400 - USB Controller
Controlador USB2 ATI SB400 - USB 2.0 Controller
Dispositivos USB Dispositivo compuesto USB
Dispositivos USB Dispositivo de interfaz humana USB
Dispositivos USB Dispositivo de interfaz humana USB
Dispositivos USB RT73 USB Wireless LAN Card #2

Problemas y sugerencias:
Problema El espacio libre en disco C: es sólo de 10%.


What is the brand, and model of your computer?

In the meanwhile, try this driver: http://support.packardbell.com/fr/item/index.php?i=6961570100&ppn=PB34212402Yup... tried those drivers... nothing....

My PC is an Emachines T6410... Tnxs... I know its quite frustratingIf you also tried sound driver from eMachines web site, and it doesn't work either, we may safely declare your on-board sound dead, or dying.
Most likely, you'll need real sound card.Are you sure it has to do with the sound card??? ... Because windows media player plays the files..... So thats it? One more try. Get K-Lite Codec Pack Standard: http://www.free-codecs.com/download/K_Lite_Codec_Pack.htm

I have a Compaq Notebook( Athlon QL-60 1.90 ghz-2.0 memory) It show a conflict in COM port 4 in the DEVICE manager


Windows cannot determine the settings for this device. Consult the documentation that came with this device and use the Resource tab to set the configuration. (Code 34)

Conflicting device list

Input/Output Range 03F8 - 03FF used by:
PCI bus
Interrupt REQUEST 0x00000004 (04) used by:
ACPI x86-based PC



In the System INFORMATION Hardware Resources it show the device as Communications
PNP Device ID as ROOT\PORT\0000

and error code 34

Any direction to resolve this problem

TIA




Right click on it and uninstall

My Dell Inspiron 1501 will suddenly TURN OFF for no reason....it will be plugged in
to a power outlet and then just TURN OFF.........any thoughts as to why this is
going on?Could be a heat problem, clean vents[blowout]. Do you hear the fan?Hey,

so sorry I did not get your email sooner, you must have been waiting and ANNOYED

Regarding the SMART errors of the previous thread, the hard drive needs replacing, fast.

I also agree with xavier, the laptop could be OVERHEATING and just shutting down before it DIES. Does it feel REALLY hot during use? Does the fan get louder after a few minutes?

It could also be the hard drive...if it gets warm and then stops RESPONDING or just locks up randomly. I have seen desktops BSOD/reset just from a bad drive; especially if the drive in question is the drive windows is installed on.

I am working on a PC for a lady in town. It's an older PC running WINDOWS ME (No OS disk) Her mouse & video card hiccuped. I reinstalled the driver for the Video & that fixed the problem but, not so lucky with the mouse. Original mouse is a standard PS2 mouse. I went to device manager did an uninstall/reinstall... no luck. Error Code 8.... VMM32.vxd I was wondering if switching to an USB mouse would cheat over the problem ?When all else fails. [yes]Any SUGGESTIONS to fixing the VMM with out the windows crashing ? System restore SEEMS not to want to work, but last checkpoint was in 2005Might want to ask your lady if you can do a up grade? When i say up grade i mean to the fullestTry here: http://www.easydesksoftware.com/news/news10.htm

I currently have a Core 2 Quad Dell. Each of the four processors run at 2.4MHz. If I want to run a game, a game that does not make use of all 4 processors, and it requires just one processor running at 2.8MHz, can I run it on my Quad machine? I am running Windows XP, have 2 megs of ram, NVidia 8300 GT with 512 megs of RAM. I'm very interested in trying a game called "Dead Space" and it has a requirement of 2.8 MHz. Will the Quad processors running at 2.4 work?


Thank You

Gene Kent
[email REMOVED to prevent SPAM]Quick question, I ASSUME you MEAN your Windows XP has 2GB of RAM?

Your 2.4GHz Quad Core would work fine.Welcome to the forums.

The minimum requirements state a P4 at 2.8GHz, which is far far slower than your CPU.
The recommended requirements are tougher at a 2.2GHz Core 2, but that should mean the game can use more than one core, so you'll easily surpass the CPU requirements with your 2.4GHz quad core.
However your GRAPHICS card is extremely weak and I doubt the game will run well, if at all.
Sorry.

I am having problems connecting myDell B130 to my SAMSUNG flatscreen (not a LCD)
I'm using a VGA to RCA/S-video cable
I've updated the video drivers and this is the best PICTURE I can get after adjusting all the resolutions and options that I KNOW to change.
its in BLACK and white and in triplicate.

this is embarrasingly simple I am sure........ my forward slash comes up as a pound sign and holding ALT or any other function key makes no DIFFERENCE. Incidentally most of my other alternate number keys dont match the face. My pound is @ and so on.....Try going to Regional and Language Options in CONTROL Panel and changing your SETTINGS to English (US).
It sounds like it's currently in the UK format.that was DEAD on because it is a pc i brought from england to usa - working fine so many thanks

No problem.

I have a gateway desktop... piece of crap fizzled out when I was upgrading the processor (2.8 GhZ [SINGLE-CORE] to 3.2 GhZ [Single core] Both celerons) The system still boots but there is no display on the computer monitor. I PLUGGED both processors into my brother's PC and they worked like a charm (He wishes he kept them, lol) Here is the model of the motherboard.

http://www.skyline-eng.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.display/Product_ID/5934

The page says eMachine, but it is a Gateway.

I made sure that the chance for static shock was low. I re-inserted the processors (BOTH) several times, still no luck.

Then again I could always scrap them and throw all the parts in a new pc, but I would rather not, seeing as the cheapest PC's are 250$...

Thanks in advance...
Arti.
...and the question is??My bad -- Lol. When I plug in my monitor (I have the same monitor plugged into my laptop, works fine) I just get the "No signal" message on the screen. How do I fix this?

(I feel so dumb for leaving out the question, lolz)
Onboard video ? ?Yes, an "Intel integrated graphics processor" I BELIVE Everest (THe program) said when it was working...Try real video CARD.

Hi, I'm new to this forum, I NEED help with a Epson STYLUS CX4600, it has almost full ink, but when I try to print anything, the paper goes through and comes out blank. It's running a pc with Win Xp Pro, 1 gb RAM, 120 GB HDD, Core 2 Duo, and DVD burner. ANY HELP?tombom,welcome to Ch forums.What if any messages are being displayed on your desktop when you click on "print"? Has this printer ever worked properly on this or any other computer? Do you have any "flashing " light on the printer when it is turned on that does not go to "a steady" green ? I am not familiar with that particular Epson printer but we have (and continue) used many of their models.How old is this printer? If you go to the "device manager" what if any yellow question or exclamation marks to you find and what are they associated with? If this is a recent model Epson they have all gone to ink cartridges with computer chips on them now which either must be reset or replaced when an ink refill is required before the printer will work again. However i doubt if this is the problem because when that function becomes necessary the printer usually will not do anything even process paper. Is the printer still within warranty?truenorthIt has worked on the same comp for a few weeks, as soon as I put new cartrages in, it stopped, I don't know how long the printer's been around.tombom,While a few of my earlier questions have been answered many have not.However based on the limited info that you have provided it seems the current situation is more than likely coincident to your installation of "new " cartridges. Are these Epson manufactured cartridges or someone else's? Are they refills? To my mind from what you have stated it sounds like you either do not have compatible cartridges or that the "new" cartridges may be defective. There is however one thing more that you can do before dealing with the previous possibility. Do at least 10 consecutive print quality CHECKS accompanying each one with a print head cleaning. All Epson models have an inbuilt program for doing those 2 actions. Do you know how to do that? If you start to see colours appearing but the lines are broken just KEEP doing the process and eventually the quality should become correct for printing. If after 5-10 nozzle cleanings you still don't see the beginning of colours then your problem is more than likely due to defective cartridges--which depending on how long they were in stock at your sellers location is CERTAINLY a possibility. Goodluck and let us know how you make out. truenorthOk, so I tried head cleaning a lot! I also googled my question phrased a lots of different ways, and finally found this:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=AhkEX_lf4D6t_eRyaVi0grkjzKIX;_ylv=3?qid=20070219115324AA4fvmz
I think I will try new cartrages.tombom,Sure looks like the link you provided is pointing in the same direction i suggested. Hope it turns out to be the case.let us know how you make out please as it may be of help to others. goodluck,truenorth

just got given a nicer case for my computer and swapped everything in but now my video card i'snt working through the s-video output (only through monitor) and my sound is all garbled.

I have a 2.4gig p4 cpu
abit is7 motherboard
1gig ram
radeon 9550 256mg agp video card
crappy old c-media pci sound card with game port.
the transplant seemed to go fairly smoothly but I accidentally reset the bios in the process. and ALSO getting the video card in was fairly difficult (very tight fit with case) and cant be removed easily. i don't think I damaged any hardware. at least I hope not . please help me.
These issues are USUALLY handled by the OS and your drivers.

If you are still using the same hard drive, there should have been no change caused by switching CASES. The BIOS reset should not affect it either.

Normally you go to Display Properties to set how you want your video device to handle multiple monitors/displays.

You can go into BIOS to see if it has options on Display PRIORITIES and see if there is something that needs to be set again.

I once had choppy sound that was fixed by setting my BIOS settings to Turbo and Fast instead of Normal and OPTIMIZED or Fail Safe.

Otherwise try to reinstall your sound card driver.thanks for suggestions.
got sound working by swapping its slot but still no video through t.v.
I'm going to try a different video card.

I have noticed for a while that my computer does not go into hibernate mode after setting the time limit to one hour. The computer stays on stand by until I resume USING the computer. Is there a setting on the computer that disables hibernation mode.What OS?And what's running in the background ? ?
Automatic email check ?
A/V or other protection apps ?
HP PRINTER ? (they've been known to PHONE home for updates at ridiculous intervals )

This will help narrow it down...I am using windows xp and here are my running processes.

[Saving SPACE - attachment deleted by admin]

HI all
I got a new 160 GB HDD because my previous 120 GB was behaving bad and now this is giving the same problems, one day on!!
I have a 450 W PSU ..P4 3.06 ghz..1.5 GB ram, 7600 GS graphic card, and a 20 GB old PATA HDD apart from this new 160 GB and a DVD rom...
It was working great on day one but on second day now it will not even boot so i removed DVD rom then it worked..

but the first day it worked with DVD on as wel.. i am very confused, COULD it be that the PSU is not powerful enough or SOMETHING else
ThanksIs the drive a sata or ide? If its a ide and hooked up to the ribbon as the other drive chec the connections and jumper settings.

Is there anything I should bare in my mind to keep my external hardrive (Maxtor Basics 500GB) in tip top condition as I know if I lost it'd I'd die!? As I know people partition there hardrives etc? The only thing I use it for is cut & pasting files (mainly vid + music) from my internal one to the external? Cheers. [Assuming this is a USB External Hard Drive]

Just remember to remove it safely (through Safely Remove Programs - Don't just pull it out)
Don't let it get too hot.
Defragment it regularly.

That's basically it to keep your hard drive healthy and working.

Anything specific you would like to know?Yes, USB. I have it optimized for quick removal which disables writing cache? if this is important, I don't know? The other option is optimized for performance which enables writing caching but requires to be REMOVED using "Safely Remove Hardware".Also, it never gets hot, I make 100% of this. The light on the front is always on which means it turned on and powered up, when it flashes that when it's in use. SOMETIMES flashes when I'm playing files on my deks or STREAMING files from the external to my PS3 but that's only when it gets warm, never even hot when my computer has been on all night. Might be a good idea to turn it off when not in use. Turning it off and on every few minutes is likely to do more harm than good, but if it's going to be on and unused for a few hours I'd switch it off.

changed my resolution on other computer to a resolution not supported by my any of my monitors or LCD TVs. after doing so, usually is changes back after 15 seconds, this time it didn't and now i cant get past the booting process to log in and change my resolution back WITHOUT getting the message "unsupported mode".

a fix would be greeeeeeeeeeatly appreciated, below is some more info on my comp

Windows vista Radeon HD5670 graphics card(driver wont install though)6GB RAM, 500 GB and 80GB Western digital Hard drives, i have a 19" lcd and a 32" lcd, neither support this resolution though.
When the computer computer is off, power on the comptuer and tap F8 until you SEE advanced boot options.. Select Last known Good configuration...or Safe Mode.ooh thanks man, i totally forgot about that, but i can never tell when to F8, it never works for meKeep TAPPING, not pressing.yea safe mode doesnt work, it still gives me the error when i try, but thanks for the help, i think its fixed, :] not i just have 2more problems to fix ^^

i have to set up my 500GB WD brick, and idk how to install the ATI 5600 driver, if u know anything that could help me on that, post ;] OTHERWISE, its kewl :]On the F8 advanced system menu, select VGA Mode, that will take it back down to 640x480 and you will be able to change the resolution back to your normal resolution, REBOOT into normal mode.

And then you are away again!

Kurtisty for the help, its fixed now, i have a new problem with installing ATI driver, my new post is called Need help with ATI, or something like that, check it out if u got any idea please :}

My son created a document in word pad and SAVED it on 10/17. On 10/22 he saved new info over it by mistake. How can I get back the original document? Please help as this was an important document.Hmmm - have to say, if the original was overwritten than can't see much chance unfortunately. Using 20/20 hindsight - always good to save backups too of important stuff.

Any temp file generated during use of Word anyways is gone when app closed - I guess same may be the CASE with Wordpad. Nothing other than the one file. If a temp remained it would/should be in same folder anyways.

If it had been deleted then there would be ways to recover - even beyond recycle bin.

I hope tho SOMEONE else may have a good idea for you as it sucks to lose data of any sort. I sympathize.Unfortunately I will have to agree with ChrisXPPro, if the data had only just been deleted it there are ways to recover it. However, when files start to get overwritten it starts to become really hard if at all possible to recover the original information. There are businesses that specialize in this area, but it's costly. We are talking thousands of dollars and all the data isn't always decipherable. So, unless that info was WORTH that much I doubt you will go that route. I too feel for son. Losing important data isn't fun.Small addition tho it doesn't help this problem ....... if original was My-special-file.rtf ...... resave that as My-special-file-bak.rtf.

Sadly I have been there long ago - but also work entirely for most part on my own puter and no one else GETS at it!If you happen to be using Windows Vista, there may be a chance of recovering previous versions of files by using Vista’s Shadow Copy feature.

Access to this feature is included in Vista Business and Ultimate and can be added to Basic and Premium by installing a small application.
I have little experience with this feature, but it may be worth investigating if it fits your situation.

Here is a link to one article on the subject. Search the internet for more information.
http://www.mydigitallife.info/2008/02/18/recover-files-with-previous-versions-volume-shadow-copy-in-vista-home-basic-and-premium-with-shadowexplorer/

Could you guys please give me some ideas on what i might want to upgrade in the next coming months?
would you say anything is out of date?
and i have about 140$ budget on upgrades what would be the best selection for my budget?



I would use the $140 towards a new Video Card, and faster RAM.

You can get a GeForce 220 GT 1GB video card w/SLI support, for around $75.

Use the remaning $65 for faster RAM.

Since your CPU has 1066 FSB, I would step my RAM up to DDR2 1066.
(Your MOBO supports 1333 FSB, but your CPU is only 1066)

You might not get 3GB for $65, but you can get 2GB for around $50-55.

I can't see why you would want to upgrade your CPU. It might be socket 775, but still a decent CPU. Same with the MoBo.

I guess you could always upgrade to Windows 7 and skip the hardware upgrade for now.What to spend your money on?

Media usage: Hard drive
Gaming: Graphics Card
Mutitasking: RAM

To put it simply, what do you want the computer to do better at?Where the heck ya been wefro ? ?

Long see...no time !

Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on January 30, 2010, 09:27:15 PM

What to spend your money on?

Media usage: Hard drive
Gaming: Graphics Card
Mutitasking: RAM

To put it simply, what do you want the computer to do better at?

If more RAM is what you want, then you might wanna think about whether or not you even want/need faster RAM. Guess it's all up to you. Maybe more RAM, and a new video card?

I actually had the 8800 GT a couple years back in a custom build of mine. I liked it, but I think you get a little more bang for your buck in these newer cards.

*scratches head* that config is pretty similar to what I have now and I have yet to find a game or anything that chokes on my config.

Anyway... another thing to consider is that, if your using on-board audio, all your games are having their audio and audio effects mixed and processed by your CPU; you can get a separate sound card that has it's own DSP (such as, for example , an audigy or X-Fi (but not the Audigy SE or X-Fi XtremeMusic, they are no better then on-board). Not sure how much it will help but it's something to consider.

I have a Dell Inspiron 6000 laptop computer. In the last week or so it has started to have a thin red vertical line on the right side of the screen. It comes and goes, but lately is there more than not. I can move the screen up and down and it will go away sometimes, but then other times that doesn't help.

Can anyone suggest a way to fix this?

Thanks for your help in advance.
Jeff
That doesn't sound good! I've never seen this, but it certainly does sound like a hardware issue. Is the laptop under WARRANTY? If so, I would make contact with Dell and see about a REPAIR.
no, the computer is over 3 yrs old, so i guess i could be sol.....I have an old Windows 98 laptop that does that here. On MINE, the screen is loose, it flops a bit. I'm guessing with mine, that the ribbon from the screen to the motherboard is damaged.

I'd say you have a similar problem. I'm not sure if the ribbons can be replaced though.Im having the same problem with my Gateway
The warranty is over
ShortyCrdclt....Shorty....We cannot help you as this is a hardware issue.
Your best bet would be to send it in for repairs.Quote from: Skitz on October 30, 2008, 02:40:31 PM

I have an old Windows 98 laptop that does that here. On mine, the screen is loose, it flops a bit. I'm guessing with mine, that the ribbon from the screen to the motherboard is damaged.

I can move the screen up and down and it will go away sometimes

I'd say you have a similar problem. I'm not sure if the ribbons can be replaced though.

I have a compac sr1603wm desktop.The CPU FAN stays on all the time but the computer doesn't BOOT up.
I have 3 gigs of ram 160 hd
256 invid card.Everything was WORKING good.one morn i went to start it up and this is what happened.
The fan just stays on all the time.How do you have 3G of RAM in that machine ? ?

I have a Toshiba Satellite A105-S2071 MODEL number PSAA2U-04U019. RUNNING a matshita dvd-ram UJ-841S and the disk drive is HTS541080G9SA00 now here is my problem. It plays DVDs just fine without a hitch, but I cannot burn a disk of any kind. I cannot burn a DVD nor burn an IMAGE or music disk. It will not even read any other disk except a DVD or software disk. I have tried just about everything except throwing it out the window. The CD recording is enabled and if I try to burn anything I get D:\ is not accessible the request could not be performed because of an I/O device error . If I try to view images on a disk it comes up as D:\ is not accessible Incorrect function (when CD recording is not enabled) when it is enabled it shows nothing. I have tried reinstalling from the disk and nothing. All drivers are up to date. I'm running windows xp home version with sp3. If anyone can help It would be greatly appreciated.. I can't figure out what else to do and my window is looking pretty hungry for this laptop..

ThanksYou might not have Recording enabled.

To CHECK if it is enabled, or to enabled, follow the instructions below.

Go to My Computer and right-click on your DVD/CD drive, select properties. Then click on the recording tab and make sure "Enable CD recording on this device" has a tick in the box next to it.

This might work
http://www.tech-faq.com/io-device-error.shtmlMicrosoft also has an article addressing your problem.See below.

http://support.microsoft.com/?kbid=891894


sorry everyone, but none of those helped. Yes the cd recording is enabled...Most burners use more than ONE laser...one for read and the other for burning...sounds llike the burning laser is shot.Ok that I can understand, but then why can't I view images on a disk or listen to cd's on a disk? that is what is really bugging me. I can live without burning anything for now, but since I model I get all my photos on a cd and can't view anything on it..one more thing to add.. I have no problem viewing a dvd on my laptop so I know it reads fine. It's aggravating...DVD RAM, or DVD ROM? DVD RAM is pretty rare, but in any case, none of them will record anything. They can only read.Never had a problem burning before, but either way I still can't read a cd of any kind except a dvd.Brand new Dual-Layer DVD burners are down to about 40 Bucks shipped from newegg.com...Update!!! I am now able to burn my movies and data disk Woo Hoo, but now I still cannot read them on the disk still. So that is my only problem left with this thing. I don't know what I did to fix the burning problem, I wish I did, so now I need help in figuring out how to view them on my laptop...

Thanks

I tried to install my speaker (creative product) to my windows Xp professional PC, however the SYSTEM does not seen to detect the PnP speaker.

I have tried unplugging the speaker, SHUT down windows, plugging in the speaker again and turning on windows again. However the system does not detect it.

I also tried the add hardware wizard, however it led me through a series of steps and still could not find the speaker.

I have READ on this website that I the PnP settings in the CMOS could have been disabled I am but not sure how to enable PnP in CMOS.

Any HELP will be nice... Thank you.

Hi,

I'm hoping you can help with what is hopefully a basic problem! I have an old laptop which I have recently rebuilt with Windows XP, but none of the 3 USB ports seem to work. In Device Manager, it lists 4 USB controllers for 3 USB hubs, and the 4th controller SHOWS an error. It won't let me install a driver for it either - I get a Code 10 error. If I disable it, the USB ports still don't work.

When I go into safe mode, USB devices do work, although I still can't sort out the device manager problem. I have found an unofficial bios update for a Compal CL50 but not SURE how to update it, or if that would even fix the problem!

Any help would be gratefully received!One method you can try prior to a MBoard driver re-install:
In Device Manager right click EVERY instance of USB Roots and Hubs and select Remove...you will recieve a Warning...ignore it.
Power down the machine.
After a few minutes power up...Windows will automatically re-install the USB roots and hubs.

Have as few USB devices hooked up as possible when you try this.

NOTE: I'd strongly advise against a BIOS flash...many expensive doorstops have been created this way...especially of the laptop variety.
Next step would be to travel to the laptop manuf. website and DLoad and install the MBoard drivers...Chipset drivers FIRST.Hi,

Cheers, but I've tried this and the same thing happens everytime the laptop gets booted back up again!You've tried what ? ?
There were more than one suggestion in my Post...Apologies - I meant I'd tried all of your suggestions.It sounds like a Windows issue...since they work properly in SAFEMODE...
Go to Start/Run and type in sfc /scannow and hit Enter...
Have your XP CD handy as it will ASK for it.
Let it finish and re-boot.Thanks for this. I thought the same, about it being a Windows issue so I did a complete reinstall of Windows XP again and the same thing STIL happens.

I don't have the laptop now - its been passed to the person I was preparing it for - but I'll give this a try next chance I see them anyway.

Hi, I have a packard bell computer running XP pro sp2 with 2 gig ram, and has a gigabyte motherboard. the problem is that the computer does not boot up at all, its almost as if it keeps tripping. i have had it running once but the screen starts all white and fades gradually to black. i have cleaned alot of dust from around the heatsink on the processor. I think my processor may have burnt out or something. any help appreciated please guys! thanx Since you have been working inside the case something may have gotten dislodged.
Remove all power sources and re-seat any RAM sticks; ADDON cards such as video and network.
Double check all cableing including power cables and drive cables.
Leave the side panel off for now and re-connect power.
Boot up and make SURE all fans are operating properly...if any of them are not POWER DOWN immediately. Some CPU's can BURN up in as little as 10 seconds.

If everything appears as it should be then do the following:
DLoad and run MemTest...let it run for at least 2 hours. This will tell you if the RAM is good.
DLoad and run the diagnostics from the hard drive manuf. site. Follow the instructions on creating a bootable CD and run the Long test.

Post back with your results.It is the first time i have been inside that computer (it has never been touched since purchased). I only WENT inside it when the problem occured. i thought maybe a wire had come loose too but i inspected everything and all connections are set up as should be! I have tried lookin at the fans when turning it on and they work fine! just seems as though its tripping out every half second or something. I was going to run fix - it utilities on it to diagnose the problem but i CANT get it to boot! i have a hardware failure somewhere but im not sure if its the motherboard or processor or what! Did you follow the instructions i typed out for you ? ?

Probably not since there's more than nine minutes work there....Sorry, yes i did. but to no avail. when the problem first started every now and again the monitor was telling me there was no signal then it got more frequent. now it wont power up properly at all. I had it running once after a few attemps but i get no picture on the monitor. it is all white then clouds over gradually turning black. i have no way of running any sort of diagnostic software on it. The diagnostics need no OS to run...have you tried a different monitor, as well? Video card?
I cant even get into the bios screen. if i did run the diagnostics, how could i get the results when the computer wont allow my monitor to work?Quote from: BC_Programmer on November 02, 2008, 09:41:09 AM

have you tried a different monitor, as well? Video card?

I have a DELL Inspiron 630m laptop running XP with an NEC DVD+-RW ND-6650A cd drive. Just over two years old.
When I try to format a new cd or DVD, a message comes up saying that the disc is READ Only, these are fresh out of the pack and different MAKES so I know there is nothing on them.
If a previously formatted disc is inserted IE, one with photos on, it reads it ok.
I've done a Windows driver check and it says that I am using the current driver.
Would be grateful for any help.
Regards,
LudditeYou can only format CD-RW's or DVD-RW's.

Also, CD's fresh out of the pack do not need to be formatted.Carbon Dudeoxide,
Thanks for that, it was a DVD-RW that wouldn't format also couldn't open CD's to transfer data/photos to them. System also asked me to format them then told me they were read only.
LudditeCan you see if the CD's work on another computer?If they are previously burned CD's and have been finalised they will show as read only...Hi again, no they hadn't been finalised. I've just bought some new DVD+RW and I still get the message that they are Read Only! Windows check still says that I'm using the current driver, Dell do an update but that is supposed to be only to improve DVD-R performance so I haven't installed it until I get to the bottom of my current problem.
Cheers for now,
Luddite WELL i'm stumped.
The only way a CD will be identified improperly is if one of the laser lenses has gone bad to my knowledge...this may be the case here.
Swap the drive into another working Desktop to test this...

All right. I will do that and give you the result as it comes Good LUCK with your INTERVIEW and I sincerely THANK you for taking time to help me with this issue. You MIGHT've SAVED our production today. (Or well, the graphic designs that should come out from this department today, )

/S.

I've got this 16GB USB stick that I put the USB bootable version of BackTrack on it

When I TRY to format it it just won't work. It says the file system is RAW, and it can't detect the capacity. While it does say it's RAW, I think the whole stick is an MBR partition, why it's saying RAW, I don't know.

So, I can't access it or format it, any ideas? Try Right Clicking it, going to Tools and Check Disk.Nothing happens :/You mean it wont run?

If not, try downloading this HP Formatting Tool and formatting the drive:
http://files.filefront.com/SP27608exe/;9868201;/fileinfo.htmlWell yeah. Since it can't detect the capacity it doesn't know the start and finishing sectors to format, so I guess that's why it won't come up.

I'll get the HP tool in a few HOURS and see what happens (cause I'm busy atm).All right then. Let us know what happens. If it says RAW it was un-plugged without using the Safely REMOVE Hardware feature...
You may need a third party tool to format it but first try it from Disk Management:

Right click My Computer and select MANAGE tjen Disk Management...
Once there find the stick and right click it and select Format.
Make sure to select the correct drive ! !Thanks, Patio, worked like a charm, just didn't have a partition on it. The format feature in my computer should give the partition OPTION. That's Windows for you I guess.

Thanks for the suggestion Carbon. I'll have that tool on hand if I need it.All right, glad you got it working again.

Can you use a dvd player as a dvd drive in a computer, and if so, then how?interesting question. i guess it depends on a couple of things...

1. the form factor of the DVD drive itself (if it is actually capable of being mounted in a 5 1/4" bay)

2. the DVD drives data interface type. (if it is a standard IDE/SATA interface it should be okay, but if its some custom interface then no, unless you know how to mod it.)

3. the DVD drives power input type. (if its a standard 4 pin molex connector it should be okay, but if its some custom connector then no, again, unless you know how to mod it.)

just a quick question, why are you asking? brand new quality DVD writers cost about $30-$40 dollars right now.Thank you homer. I asked because my mom gave me our broken dvd player and i WANTED to see if i could do it. Looks like the data interface is either SATA or IDE (how do you tell the difference?) and it seems to use the standard 4-pin power connector But i am UNSURE about the form factor and whether you could mount it or not.QUOTE

But i am unsure about the form factor and whether you could mount it or not.

Is there any way for the drive to catch fire or something?

I have a old HP Vectra I am wanting to put Win Me on it it has 2 harddrives 40 gigs each I used a program called killdisk to wipe the hardrives inserted the ME disk says has problems will not install is there a program I can USE to scan the hardrives and fix them?

I used the killdisk program on another computer and inserted the Me disk and it worked fine.Honestly, I would PROBABLY buy a new hard drive. Prices are so cheap. This is the best software tool for fixing HDDs, but it costs more than a new drive. http://www.grc.com/spinrite.htm

A free option is to download a LINUX install and see if it works on your system. It may turn out that by FORMATTING the drive to run Linux, it will later be able to accept the ME install. Try Ubuntu Linux.

Good luck! Quote from: zodiacmaster on January 31, 2010, 04:52:40 PM

is there a program I can use to scan the hardrives and fix them?

I am a BIT embarrassed to be making this post as I suspect the information I am looking for will turn out to be obvious.

I have just set up my Canon PIXMA ip4500 and it WORKS fine, however I have not managed to find any info in the help manuals to tell me why I have two black ink cartridges, nor to tell me how to use one rather than the other. Can ANYONE ADVISE?Quote extracted from here..

Quote

The ink mix benefits output quality. Dye-based cyan, magenta, yellow, and black offer a broad palette; a second, pigment-based black looks darker and lasts longer. Each ink's separate tank rests in a clearly visible slot above a permanent printhead. As other Canon printers have had for a while, an LED on the cartridge lights red when it's properly inserted--an odd color for affirmative feedback, but still informative. The Pixma iP4500's dye-based black costs 3.1 CENTS per page; a page with cyan, magenta, and yellow as well costs 8.4 cents. The pigment-based black, used only for plain text, lasts 5475 pages, or just a fraction of a penny per page.

Hi..

I'm having this trouble for years.. Need some1 to help me solving it.
Currently I have this notebook, NEC VERSA M440, and since 2 years ago, my CD-ROM has malfunctioned. First, it took time for booting my notebook, the LED light with a CD picture beside it kept blinking, and i have to turn off and turn on my notebook for several times to GET it booted. Usually when it finally MANAGED to boot, the CD-ROM would produce a kind of spinning sound and the LED light finally blinking for several consecutive time as if my notebook finally detect it. At that time, I can still open my CD and it can work and detect the CD perfectly. But now, frustratingly I can't do anything to my CD-ROM, not even opening it! Has my CD-ROM malfunctioned? If I'm not thinking of replacing the CD-ROM, can I skip its recognition PROCESS during the boot sequence? Coz it's been the thing that bothering me most.. To let u know, I'm usually spending half an hour to get my notebook boot!!

Btw, THX b4 for any of ur replies and help.

I have a Boistar Tseries MB with onboard video. Windows Vista is installed. My onboard video quit working. My monitor works fine on another PC. I added a video card but I still have no video. The PC boots, I can hear Windows WAV file when the system boots. Any suggestions on how to test the mother board for the video problem? I am at a loss, other than swapping out my mother board. ThanksDid you test the monitor AND cables on another PC or just the monitor?Wouldn't happen to have another monitor would ya?All of the cables are connected to the monitor, so when I tried it on another box they were tested. I also, connected a different monitor to the board in question and the video did not work.There should be a set of jumpers on your motherboard. It's a set of 3 pins close together in a straight line. This is the video jumper.

Do you have the manual for your MoBo? If so, it will show you the location of the jumper pins.

Let us know if you have the manual and if you still need help.

*EDIT*

It might not be 3 pins. You should be ABLE to SWITCH the jumper setting and that would allow your motherboard to USE the PCI video card at boot.I looked at a T-series manual and didn't see the option for a jumper. It is showing an option for a auxilary 12V power supply PLUG directly above the PCI-E slots. You might try that if you haven't already done so.Quote from: cruisin702 on January 31, 2010, 11:03:08 PM

I looked at a T-series manual and didn't see the option for a jumper. It is showing an option for a auxilary 12V power supply plug directly above the PCI-E slots. You might try that if you haven't already done so.

I'm having a problem that I just cannot troubleshoot any further.

I setup RAID 1 only on 2 maxtor SATA hard drives recently (Maxtor 7L320SO and Maxtor 7B320SO) using the onboard RAID controller on my MSI NEO2 v2.0 VIA VT8237 chipset) motherboard. VISTA had been giving me some BSODs for a while and every once in a while my computer would shutdown without notice and I'd get a flashing green power LED. I was also getting a glitch that automatically restarted the computer and left me at a "Hardware initiate failed, please check device!!! The Bios does not be installed." A google search on this could never really rectify the problem and I let it go for sometime SINCE I never had the energy to probe further. Aside from having to save my programs more frequently, it was something that a manual reboot could temporarily solve. One time I followed a possible solution that mentioned I should go into the BIOS and change the SATA setting from "RAID" to "IDE." That seemed to solve the problem until one day I booted to a "Verifying DMI Pool Data...GRUB" screen. Changing back to "RAID" on the SATA screen seemed to solve the problem. I am 100% certain I had no viruses of any sort.

Then, several days ago I startup my computer to a "RAID 1 array needs to be duplicated to ensure data consistancy" screen. I say OK and it says "Failed." From then on I could not boot to anything other than a GRUB screen, even when breaking the mirror. Horribly, I later confirmed all my data was screwed and unrecoverable off of either drive.

Keeping the source drive in tact, I installed windows xp on the old mirrored drive. I found the old source drive which windows WANTED to format. However, after running windows for sometime, the computer would shut down to a flashing green power LED as before. Taking the old source drive off will always yield a stable computer. Both drives are perfectly okay physically as diagnostics check out OK. I thought perhaps my PSU isn't up to snuff but it puts out 500 max watts. My SATA cables check OK. The only thing I can think of is that the motherboard's SATA0 port might be damaged somehow. I cannot seem to verify this since the OS has to be on SATA0, leaving the screwed up drive on SATA1. Swapping them always yields a "OS cannot be found" screen. I cannot shake the feeling that the board may be damaged or that there is too much of a draw on the PSU ALTHOUGH the later seems the most unlikely of the two.

Ideas anyone?GRUB screen, even when breaking the mirror. Horribly, I later confirmed all my data was screwed and unrecoverable off of either drive.

Keeping the source drive in tact, I installed windows xp on the old mirrored drive. I found the old source drive which windows wanted to format. However, after running windows for sometime, the computer would shut down to a flashing green power LED as before. Taking the old source drive off will always yield a stable computer. Both drives are perfectly okay physically as diagnostics check out OK. I thought perhaps my PSU isn't up to snuff but it puts out 500 max watts. My SATA cables check OK. The only thing I can think of is that the motherboard's SATA0 port might be damaged somehow. I cannot seem to verify this since the OS has to be on SATA0, leaving the screwed up drive on SATA1. Swapping them always yields a "OS cannot be found" screen. I cannot shake the feeling that the board may be damaged or that there is too much of a draw on the PSU although the later seems the most unlikely of the two.

Ideas anyone?Quote from: shakedog on November 01, 2008, 04:30:03 PM

I thought perhaps my PSU isn't up to snuff but it puts out 500 max watts.
Ideas anyone?

I am looking to get a CPU but I need some help.

If you see a CPU and it is a Dual Core and then you see a CPU that is a Core 2. Duo what is the diferance??

Core 2. Duo meens it has two CPUs in onw RIGHT then what is the Dual Core???
1A dual core CPU is a CPU with two processing cores.
Core 2 Duo is a line of dual core CPUs manufactured by Intel.The Motherboard I am looking at to get tells me all the CPUs that can go with it.

One of the CPUs it says is a
Celeron 420 then it gives the Front/Side BUSS then it say L2. 512 kB

I know that L2. is the Level 2. Cash Memory and it was on the Motherboard but now they put in the CPU it's self.

But why do they not give the L1. Cash Memory is that because they got rid of it?

Level 1. Memory was what was on the CPU befor??

I don't get itL1 cache is still included but not always QUOTED in the specs.OK so I now know that they moved the L2. Cash from the Motherboard and it is now inside of the CPU.

And like you just told me the CPU still has the L1. inside of it like it did befor. So why do they just State the L2. Cash and not the L1. Cash what makes the L2. more importantet???L2 cache is a bigger number - it's all marketing hype.
Some sites will state the L1 cache too, others won't.What MBoard are you considering ? ?When looking for a CPU I know that you look for things like the Most Cash Memory and the Processing Speed and the type of Front/Side BUSS it can support.

And if your going to use it for a Gaming System you will look for a Dual Core or Qwad Core.

But what els do you have to look for??This is what I ment the Motherboard I am looking to get has a Socket 775 and it can support

Celeron 420 / Celeron 430 / Celeron 440 / Celeron 450 / Dual Core E 1200 / Dual Core E 1300 / Dual Core E 1400 / Core 2. Duo E 4300 / Core 2. Duo E 4400

I get it there is a lot of diferant Dual Core CPUs then it goes into the Core 2. Duo CPUs.

I thought they WARE the same thing Dual Cor and Core 2. Duo??Anoyone?See reply #1 by myself.Quote from: patio on OCTOBER 22, 2008, 03:27:22 PM

What MBoard are you considering ? ?

Hi all,

I just bought an old laptop for an elderly friend who wants to send and receive email but doesn't WANT to spring for broadband. It's a Compaq Armada 1130T, circa 1997, and I can't FIGURE out what kind of cable to connect to the modem. I'm not even sure where the modem jack is. Device Manager shows that the computer contains a modem, but it doesn't use the phone jack I expecting. Could the dongle at http://snipurl.com/4maf2 be what I need? If so, any idea how I'd hook it in? Thanks for any help.Can you not find an Ethernet port?
http://www.publicwebstations.com/howto/ethernet.jpgNo, this laptop's way too old for an Ethernet port. It doesn't even have USB.Wow, nice.

Anywhere on the laptop to add a PCMCIA Card?
(like this: http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/full/a89fa.jpg)Yes, there's an open PCMCIA slot, and I may resort to it if I can find an inexpensive 56K dial-up modem to put into it. I'm frustrated, though, because both Device Manager and Belarc Advisor are telling me there's already a modem installed.

One weird feature of this laptop (I mean, besides the phantom modem): in the front is a sort of LITTLE door, with two flaps (upper and lower) that swing open in the same direction. That door is the one possible clue I can find to the modem's location. Each flap has two prongs on the inside, i.e., pointing into the laptop (four prongs in all). Maybe the four-pin dongle I've ordered will fit there and solve my PROBLEM. I'm just flailing, though. I really have no idea.

Anyway, thanks for your help so far. If you have other thoughts I'd appreciate them.Is there a serial port on the rear of this laptop ? ?

That Would Be Another Option...There is a serial port, and you're right, it's another option. Thank you for the suggestion. I'll keep it in mind in case I can't find the *[emailprotected]#$%^ installed modem.

Someone at another site wrote that the modem is on the right side of the laptop. But all that I can find on the right side is a small empty oval with BENEATH it a symbol that resembles two links of a chain. Does that sound like a modem port? If so, any idea what kind of cable I would use there?Someone else at another site wrote this:

the connection is on the front to small taps put and clip in the phone line

Does anyone know what that means?Forget it. I've caved and ordered a PCMCIA modem that should work. Thanks for the ideas. Enjoy the day.All right then.Order DSL service for her...

Hi,

Packard Bell EasyNote G1340, XP Home.

Was handed this to try to sort................was told there was NO screen, but there is, just almost impossible to see as no backlight.

In CP it also had numerous yellow question marks inc Video, USB, Network, ........lots..............

After a reboot with a flat screen CONNECTED I was able to use it OK, the external FS works, you can JUST see the internal FS mirroring.

Have reduced the CP device list errors to two, USB and Network Controller, both telling there's no drivers loaded, then saying you don't need any.

USB works OK, recognises devices.

Network (Wired) works OK, connects to my router and Internet no probs.

Can't find any screen controls, so assume therefore the internal FS has died?? Have I done enough to prove this???

In Device Manager, exactly what items have Yellow Marks next to them?

Also, is the laptop under warranty? (how old is it)Here is a fun read about power managment on a XP laptop.....


At my company, a Windows XP Professional Edition user in a nondomain network was having a problem with a program that takes several hours to run to completion. During execution, the program would stop for no apparent reason. I traced the trouble to the hard disks spinning down after about an hour of keyboard and mouse inactivity.

To correct this problem, I went into the Control Panel Power Options applet and selected the Power Schemes tab. XP Pro was defaulting to a power scheme called Portable/Laptop, which wasn't suitable for the user's needs. I clicked the Power schemes drop-down list. There was only one other option, Home/Office Desk, which also wasn't suitable. So, I decided to change the attributes for the Portable/Laptop Power scheme to the following:

Turn off monitor: After 15 mins
Turn off hard disks: Never
System standby: Never
System hibernate: Never


After I clicked Apply, I received the ERROR message, Power Policy Manager unable to set policy. Indicates two revision levels are incompatible. This error is documented in the Microsoft article "Error Message: Power Policy Manager Unable to Set Policy. Indicates Two Revision Levels Are Incompatible" (http://support.microsoft.com/?kbid=302713). That article basically says you can't overwrite an existing scheme name, but you can save your new scheme under a new name by using the Save As option.

Armed with this KNOWLEDGE, I entered the new settings, saved the scheme as Custom Scheme, and exited. I later noticed that the drives were still spinning down, so I went back into the Power Options applet. I saw that Portable/Laptop was again selected in the Power schemes drop-down list. Custom Scheme wasn't even listed.

I wondered whether this problem was an XP user issue. I logged off as the user, then logged back on as Local Administrator. On the Power Schemes tab, I saw not two but six default schemes available. I reviewed this behavior with a Microsoft PRODUCT Support Services (PSS) representative, who had a couple of good troubleshooting suggestions. The first suggestion was to try the Msconfig utility to see whether a loaded program was causing the problem. The second suggestion was to try to EXPORT the HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Controls Folder\PowerCfg registry subkey from a known good XP installation and import it into the problematic PC. I took a look at that subkey on both the problematic PC and a good PC. I noticed that both PCs had the six OEM default profiles as well as several other schemes that had been created but never displayed in the Power schemes drop-down list on the Power Schemes tab. I also saw that the PowerCfg subkey had a ProcessorsPolicies subkey that I didn't want to become familiar with the hard way.

The PSS representative's reference to the PowerCfg subkey and a little digging helped me come up with a solution. First, I accessed the HKEY_USERS\.DEFAULT\Control Panel\PowerCfg subkey. I noticed that it had all six default power schemes with no undesired extraneous schemes. It also had a GlobalPowerPolicy subkey but not the ProcessorsPolicies subkey . I decided to export the HKEY_USERS PowerCfg subkey and put it in place of the HKEY_CURRENT_USER PowerCfg subkey because the HKEY_USERS PowerCfg subkey had all six default schemes, one of which is the desired Always On scheme. Here are the steps to make this switch:

Export HKEY_USERS\.DEFAULT\Control Panel\PowerCfg and save it as HKUsersPowerCfg.reg.
Open HKUsersPowerCfg.reg in Notepad. Search for all occurrences of [HKEY_USERS\.DEFAULT\Control Panel and replace them with [HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Control Panel.
Export the existing HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Control Panel\PowerCfg subkey so that you have a backup if needed.
Delete the existing HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Control Panel\PowerCfg subkey.
Import the freshly edited HKUsersPowerCfg.reg subkey.
The user now has all six default power schemes available. Interestingly, the Save As option in the Power Schemes tab now actually works.

I noticed this same power scheme problem on another XP Pro PC that was upgraded from Windows 98. Perhaps the problem originates during the upgrade. If your users have been experiencing similar problems, you can use the XP PowerCfg Fix.txt file to help make the necessary registry changes. (Use it at your own risk.) You can download this file from the Windows IT Pro Web site. Replace the .txt extension with the .reg extension.




Sometimes the power managment will dim the laptop screen to save power. You can use the power scheme settings in the registry to turn the brightness up a little.

Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on November 01, 2008, 06:57:34 AM

In Device Manager, exactly what items have Yellow Marks next to them?

Also, is the laptop under warranty? (how old is it)