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i hav a transcend 8gb pen drive..when i connect it to my pc it gets connected but when i double clcik it it says "please insert disk into drive"..what can be done to it...because every pen drive shows the same error..More INFO...
Does it work on other MACHINES ?
Did it ever work ?
What ver. of Windows ?
How does it show up in Disk Management ? ?

Help us to help you.it does not work on other machines..it was working perfectly in the morning..windows xp....in diskmgmt it jus shows as removable disk:"No Media"...Then it was removed prematurely without USING "Safely Remove Hardware" and more than likely all your data is gone and it needs to be FORMATTED to use again.

Did you right clik it and select properties in Disk Management ? ?
Does it say RAW ? ?

From the Firefox toolbar...click File/Page Setup and see if the scale is set to anything higher than 100%.

Check the box that says "Shrink to Fit Page Width"...

Save those settings and get back to us...

I found this buried in our old family PC, a gateway 2000, it overclocked the still functional 133MHz PENTIUM MMX to 233MHz using the power from a floppy CABLE and jumpers to up the front SIDE bus and CLOCK multiplier.



Here's a picture of the underside:



Its an antique by today's standards, but still, very cool. Overclocking in the past, surprised the PMMX didn't die.

Has anyone seen anything like this before? I haven't, not once aside from this have I seen such a MODULE

my laptop is about 2 and a half years old, 1gb ram 120gb harddrive 1.7ghz, windows vista.. my problem is that my laptop does not start. i press the power button, it turns on , all the lights are on and then it just restarts with nothing showing on the SCREEN. , i havent installed any hardware or software, ive ALSO reformatted but the problem STILL exists.. any ideas?

ps: ive also reseated the ram,wireless adapter and the harddriveHave you tried removing the battery and just running off of the AC power adapter?
Does it do the same THING in safemode?well i forgot to MENTION i only run the laptop with the power adapter since my battery doesnt last more than 3 minutes but i have tried it with battery only and still doesnt start up, and regarding safe mode, when i turn on the laptop the screen is just blank for like 30 seconds and then restartsHave you tried with the battery completeley out of the laptop?yupok i got to the bios and tried to do a hard drive self test but it wouldnt detected, i made sure the hard drive was in place. so im assuming i need a new harddrive.. can anyone confirm

Hello all, I am running Windows XP and my COMPUTER specs are: AMD Athlon 64x2 dual core processor 5000+ 2.61 ghz, 2.00gb or RAM. I purchased a Nvida gforce 8600 gt from circuit city and a 500w antec power supply for my computer YESTERDAY. Installed it booted the computer downloaded the newest drivers, and everything seemed fine. Went to play World of Warcraft to test it out and randomly within the first 20 minutes of playing my computer will just freeze up while playing or all sorts of weird things will happen like the screen will zoom in or the steps in the main city will be all black but everything ELSE you can see. I am guessing this problem is from overheating but no real clue. Any help would be much obliged I will be back in 3 hours from post time to troubleshoot this problem. The 3 most common prblms. in your case would be , over heating, MEMORY , or incompatable hardware deviceDid you install the drivers on the disc that came with the video CARD? Sometimes, the downloaded drivers don't always work like they should.
do you have a sound card in you computer? some of the nvidia video cards have a conflic with sound cards.

I have a HP Pavilion 8665c Desktop. It was bought a few years back. I moved about six months ago and left it it storage until the other day. I plugged everything in and all that happens is......An orange light comes on under the power button, the fan comes on, a CD drive light comes on. The monitor shows nothing. I have tried a couple of monitors, with multiple cables. It is not the monitors, or the cables. There has been no physical damage to this unit. I have checked connections to everything.
I recently read something about a battery for the power button? Could this be it? Because the power button will not do anything. I can hold it down forever and it will not turn back off. I have to remove the plug from the wall to turn it off. The power button does nothing.
Anyone familiar with this? I would appreciate the help! By the WAY It has XP on itQuote

I recently read something about a battery for the power button?

Does anyone know a good site for buying new 10-20GB IDE internal Hard Drives? I would like to buy 15-20 of these drives and can't find a good PLACE that sells them in bulk for a reasonable price. I use these to build "DUMMY" terminals for our corporate office.
I tried Ebay but everybody that's selling hard drives there are selling used ones. (I learned my LESSON--don't buy used drives!)

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.Well, new IDE drives of that capacity aren't made any more, so I think you'll have a hard time finding a good supply.
Good luck to you though. If I find anything I'll let you know, and I'll also be WATCHING in case anyone else SPOTS anything.

Hi,

I am trying to figure out what has happened to my audio. I have just recently INSTALLED service pack 3, that may or may not be the issue.

I have no problem playing audio on media player or other players. I can't get audio on any online site except Iwon.

I have windows xp pro. I saw another post that said to download everest and I did, but don't know what to do with it.

As you may note, I am not a computer whiz.

Any help would be appreciated.Can you give us an example of what site you cannot hear anything from.

What Internet Browser?

What Operating System?Hi,

My operating system is windows xp pro. My browser is Mozilla Firefox

The sites I can't hear are:
http://www.kiss108.com/main.html
www.Joost.com

Thank you in advance for even trying to help.All right, what about sites like Youtube?

What is Joost? It said 'Download Joost' at the side. I went to youtube and there is no sound. There is a rise in white noise when I go to any of the sites. No recognizable sound, just white noise.

Joost lets you watch shows online.Quote from: cyberdeck on September 17, 2008, 08:33:17 AM

Joost lets you watch shows online.

guys i really NEED your help.. i GOT an error unmountable_boot_volume then i already tried to fix it using chkdsk /r and fixboot but NOTHINGS happen then i bought a 2.5" HDD enclosure to opened up my HDD i already connect it to my desktop pc so i can get my files in my D partition but unfortunately my HDD hangs up and my last resort is to format my C: so i can get my files to the partition but i can't format my c: or even delete files in my c: what should i do inorder to get my files in the other partition?? what should i do.. tnx for your help..

i just finished BUILDING my computer here are the specs

asus striker extreme motherboard 680i
intel e8650 3.0ghz dual core
ati all in wonder graphics card
2tb western digital internet memory
2gb trascend ram pc2 6400 DDR2 800

its running on windows vista and i already see signs of lag and is starting to annoy me SENSE its brand new so i think the ram is the probably want to upgrade to 2 more gbs but im having a probably choose ive narrowed it down to

Kingston HyperX 2GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104030

Kingston 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820134635

i was just wondering what the difference of the rams really is i no one is hyperx but the speeds are exactly the same, im not really using my computer for gaming and i know its only a $7 difference but i want to know what am i really paying for, is the hyperx OVERALL better? longer lasing? is it really worth the slight difference?

I wish to keep as MUCH of my computer hardware as possible, but I do NOT want to replace the RAM or the CPU. I took the "summary" from Everest:

Code: [Select]Field Value
Computer
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition
OS Service Pack Service Pack 2
DirectX 4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
Computer Name L-0A99CE1F641F4
User Name Owner

Motherboard
CPU Type Intel Celeron, 2800 MHz (28 x 100)
Motherboard Name Intel Brownsville D845GBV / Brownsville 2 D845GEBV2 / Rexburg D845GRG / Rexburg 2 D845GERG2
Motherboard Chipset Intel Brookdale-G i845GEV
System Memory 1270 MB (PC2700 DDR SDRAM)
BIOS Type AMI (07/23/03)
Communication Port Communications Port (COM1)
Communication Port ECP Printer Port (LPT1)

Display
Video Adapter Intel(R) 82845G/GL/GE/PE/GV Graphics CONTROLLER (64 MB)
3D Accelerator Intel Extreme Graphics
Monitor Plug and Play Monitor [NoDB] (141817116)

Multimedia
Audio Adapter Intel 82801DB ICH4 - AC'97 Audio Controller [B-0]

Storage
IDE Controller Intel(R) 82801DB Ultra ATA Storage Controller - 24CB
Disk Drive Maxtor 2F040L0 (40 GB, 5400 RPM, Ultra-ATA/133)
Disk Drive WD 2500BEV External USB Device (232 GB, USB)
Disk Drive Sony PSP USB Device (235 MB, USB)
Optical Drive LITE-ON COMBO LTC-48161H (DVD:16x, CD:48x/24x/48x DVD-ROM/CD-RW)
SMART Hard Disks Status OK

Partitions
E: (NTFS) 37550 MB (3456 MB free)

Input
Keyboard HID Keyboard Device
Keyboard HID Keyboard Device
Mouse HID-compliant mouse
Mouse Microsoft USB IntelliMouse Web

Network
Network Adapter Hamachi Network Interface - Virtual Machine Network Services Driver (5.245.144.21)
Network Adapter Linksys Wireless-G PCI Network Adapter with SpeedBooster (192.168.10.9)

Peripherals
Printer \\Computer\hp psc 1300 series
Printer \\Computer\Microsoft XPS Document Writer
Printer Auto Microsoft XPS Document Writer on COMPUTER
Printer Microsoft XPS Document Writer
USB1 Controller Intel 82801DB ICH4 - USB Controller [B-0]
USB1 Controller Intel 82801DB ICH4 - USB Controller [B-0]
USB1 Controller Intel 82801DB ICH4 - USB Controller [B-0]
USB2 Controller Intel 82801DB ICH4 - Enhanced USB2 Controller [B-0]
USB Device Generic USB Hub
USB Device Microsoft USB IntelliMouse Web
USB Device USB Composite Device
USB Device USB Composite Device
USB Device USB Human Interface Device
USB Device USB Human Interface Device
USB Device USB Human Interface Device
USB Device USB Human Interface Device
USB Device USB Mass Storage Device
USB Device USB Mass Storage Device

Problems & Suggestions
Problem Disk free space is only 9% on drive E:.

I hope that is enough

Simi

P.S. I wish to be able to install a NVidia CARD if I please -- I have tastes for these new games which I cannot run ATM. Well... Can't run on this computer. xD

EDIT!!: I was flipping through Everest and this might come in handy:
Code: [Select]Field Value
CPU Properties
CPU Type Intel Celeron
CPU Alias Northwood-128
CPU Stepping D1
Engineering Sample No
CPUID CPU Name Intel(R) Celeron(R) CPU 2.80GHz
CPUID Revision 00000F29h

CPU Speed
CPU Clock 2799.34 MHz (original: 2800 MHz)
CPU Multiplier 28.0x
CPU FSB 99.98 MHz (original: 100 MHz)
Memory Bus 133.30 MHz

CPU Cache
L1 Trace Cache 12K Instructions
L1 Data Cache 8 KB
L2 Cache 128 KB (On-Die, ECC, ATC, Full-Speed)

Motherboard Properties
Motherboard ID 63-0100-000001-00101111-072303-iBRKDL_G$RG84510A_BIOS DATE: 07/23/03 09:40:38 VER: 08.00.09
Motherboard Name Intel Brownsville D845GBV / Brownsville 2 D845GEBV2 / Rexburg D845GRG / Rexburg 2 D845GERG2

Chipset Properties
Motherboard Chipset Intel Brookdale-G i845GEV
Memory TIMINGS 2-3-3-6 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS)

SPD Memory Modules
DIMM1: Infineon 64D32300GU6C 256 MB PC2700 DDR SDRAM (2.5-3-3-7 @ 166 MHz) (2.0-3-3-6 @ 133 MHz)
DIMM2: Micron Tech. 16VDDT12864AY335D3 1 GB PC2700 DDR SDRAM (2.5-3-3-7 @ 166 MHz) (2.0-3-3-6 @ 133 MHz)

BIOS Properties
System BIOS Date 07/23/03
Video BIOS Date 10/25/20
DMI BIOS Version SR84511A.15A.0014.P02.0307230940

Graphics Processor Properties
Video Adapter Intel 82845G/GL/GV Graphics Controller
GPU Code Name Brookdale-G (Integrated 8086 / 2562, Rev 03)
GPU Clock 200 MHz

EDIT (again): P.S.S. what is the average cost of a Motherboard? and the cost of this one? (to compare)

Hey Guys, if the hard drive goes bad and is not found by the computer, will the computer still boot up from the CD rom with the original Windows XP CD? I realize that the boot sequence has to be set to recognize the CD drive. The REASON I ask is that I posted here before about a hard drive that went bad. What I don't understand is that I could not get it to boot on the CD drive until I replaced the bad HD with a good one.

I am having a simliar problem now with a Dell Desk Top. Why would the computer not SEEM to find or boot from the CD drive?

Thanks
Sometimes EVEN if the boot order is correct in the BIOS it will still insist on booting to the HDD...
This can be caused by a few things:
Bad IDE cable...
Bad or failing CD drive...
Weak or failing CMOS battery not saving the BIOS changes...

The boot order is TIMER controlled so if thee first device has issues when a certain amount of time has gone by it will bump down to the SECOND device and so on and so on.

Hope this helps and Welcome Aboard !Thank you. That clears things up a bit for me.Is that you werfro ? ?

I have a HP note book serial number CN3170989/MODEL NO XT4316wm. Last week, I dropped it on the floor which was carpeted, and it may have been less than a foot from the floor maybe two.
Using Windows xp home edition. The software is original. I have 2 restore disks, 1 documentation library disk, and 1 OS disk. I put these in and turn on the laptop. They do not work. I see the message press any key to boot from/to cd. The cd rom makes loud grinding sounds as if its working very hard and I see a green light on. Nothing. So, I get a memory buffer overfill error next, and then NLDTR MESSAGE.PRESS CTRL*ALT*DELETE to restart.
The only disk that will READ from the cd rom is one that came with a HEWLET PACKARD DESTOP. It will not install or recover, but it does work and GIVES me a setup screen which is blue with white writing. After it checks for EULA, it says cannot find EULA agreement, and it starts the laptop over, or I get to the part where it will say recovery press R and I do, but it asks for some disks, which of course don't match my laptop, and all I can get is the command prompt. I think that the hard drive may have reformatted because when I press "DIR" I don't see anything except for one file. I am not sure if this is the information you all needed. Sorry if I confused you. Maybe with all my tinkering, I erased the old information, but now what? Thanks for your patience.Sounds to me like the hard drive is damaged. You can try to replace it and re-install the operating system, or take the laptop to a good, qualified repair shop for a diagnosis. I would suggest the latter.

Best of luck!Thanks. I forgot to add this though. My computer was recently updated I think to sp3 or it might be sp2. So what if I order some disks for that from microsoft?My suggestion to take your laptop to a professional is simply based on PROBABILITIES. I'm betting (albeit with your money ) that the amount that you spend on incorrect (UNNECESSARY) repairs + the amount needed for essential repairs will be equal to or greater than the amount that you spend having the laptop repaired by a professional - if it can be repaired.

You are free to disagree, it's your money. Be aware that physical damage to a laptop can be difficult to diagnose with the laptop in hand, let alone over the internet!

If you want to go ahead without guarantees, I would replace the hard drive. It is unclear to me from your description as to the status of the CD drive, but it is likely that it will need replaced, as well. There is no need to purchase anything from Microsoft. I'm a bit confused as to exactly what software you have from HP, but if you do not have the CD's to "recover" the laptop, a call to HP is all that is necessary to order them, plus a charge. You want to order "recovery disks."

Thanks for your help and patience. The disks I was talking about is the OS disk (windows xp), the Documentation library (applications), and 2 Recovery disks. Anyway, I will see what the pros can do from here. My laptop is about 6 years old, but it's paid for, and I need it for assignments. Thanks again! Be sure to take the CD's with you to the repair facility.

I understand your position: 6 yr old laptop maybe worth $35; cost to repair ≈$300; new laptop ≈$800 - $3000.

But, maybe look for used laptop, $100 - $1000; see what the repair ESTIMATE is and compare.

Best of luck

Hi
USB cable of some device like printer, scanner and etc has a gland in the end of the cable.
You can not see this part in USB cable of other device, like CAMERA, mp3/4 player, external HDD/ODD, MOUSE, keyboard and....
What is the task of this part?

Thanks

[recovering disk space -- ATTACHMENT deleted by admin]The "gland" is a ferrite core introduced into the cable to reduce or ELIMINATE RFI; in other words, to reduce the chance that interference from operation of the USB device will interfere with the operation of a nearby device.





Technically it's called a RF Choke mad of ferrite or ferrite beads.
Look here for good explanation.
http://computer.howstuffworks.com/question352.htmIn other words, it is something to make people ask about it. like how you have those families housing their elderly members, and they never seem to move- thus everybody that VISITS asks the question. "Is he dead?"
Actually i like "gland"...never heard it called that before...

How do I totally erase a hard drive? I mean windows and all. Thanks.left click on my computer, right click on local disc c, click on format, do not do a quick formatQuote from: xavier on September 16, 2008, 08:32:17 PM

left click on my computer, right click on local disc c, click on format, do not do a quick format

Was not thinking on this one Carbon

Quote from: xavier on September 16, 2008, 08:32:17 PM

left click on my computer, right click on local disc c, click on format, do not do a quick format

You cannot format Windows within Windows.....

Stonewallcd, do you have the Windows CD, Computer's CD or a Floppy Drive?

i have the intel Q6600 running at the clock speed (2.4GHz)

i have d/loaded CoreTemp which shows the temp of all 4 cores

i have FOUND that they are running really hot:
around 50-60C idle
around 80C full load

i have the Tuniq CPU cooler running at almost 2000RPM (Found Here)

is this normal???
The Q6600 does run hot, but that does SEEM very hot with a good cooler like that.
Check your thermal paste application and that the heatsink is installed correctly.
Also, what case do you have, and how many fans do you have/what direction are they pointing/where are they?i have the thermaltake armor with a 25cm on the side panel, 2 120mm fans on front, 1 intake and 1 exhaust and 1 140mm on rear exhausting
i will check the thermal paste and fitting when i get a chance toSounds like the thermal paste then, your COOLING setup seems good to me.Sounds like the Tunig isn't fastened down all the way...
It ships with a few install setup pieces...which ones did you use ? ?
My Q6600 with the stock Intel cooler idles at 37 to 39 and under load may sometimes reach 57 58...i bought the pc 2ND hand
its DEF the right pieces, for an 775 CPU
its massive and is compressed a little by the door.
maybe it came loose
i will recheck it and post the results
you may also want to check that all the fans are facing the correct way. you can check using your hand or, if you cant really tell by your hand, you can also check using a small piece of tissue paper. the front, rear, mid (if applicable), and CPU fans should all be blowing air towards the back of the case; the side panel fan should be blowing air into the case.i removed the fan, reapplied thermal paste and replaced it
my cpus are no running at between 30 and 37C semi idle and around 45C full load
brilliant!
thanks for your help everyoneExcellent News ! !

Go Q6600 !

Please Help
i have an ASUS A8NE-FM mother board
i have added a new PCI-e graphics card with takes up the slot of my pci sound card.
so i NEED to use the onboard sound card which is (i fink ) realtek ALC655 BUT I DNT HAVE ANY CDS OR DRIVERS FOR THIS MOTHER BOARD .....PLEASE HELP IF THERES SOME PLACE TO DL THE WHOLE MOTHERBAORD DRIVERS FOR ASUS A8NE-FM THAT WILL BE GREAT ...

P/S
ASUS WEBSITE DNT HELP AS CNT FIND DRIVER FOR MOTHERBOARD THERE I LOOKED Go to http://www.my-config.com/

Ignore the French in the lower middle of the page.

You will see a bar with series of large buttons from left to right beginning with Start the Detection.

Push the larger green button Run the Detection at the upper right of the of the bar.

When the scan finishes, it will display the contents of your computer below.

Then follow through with the next large button: Find the Drivers.

It will display a list of what is installed on your machine by date and version of the driver and OFFER you a list of AVAILABLE newer drivers. Watch these carefully. Sometimes earlier driver versions will be offered because the SIGNATURE date is more recent.

This is what happens when major board manuf. build boards for the large box builders such as HP Compaq etc...
No support...no drivers at the ASUS site.
Best bet is the OEM's site.

Can I do a "print SCREEN" without SOFTWARE? Is there someway the computer hardware can take a "screen shot" without a program already loaded? I want to capture some things see in the BIOS AREA and some error MESSAGES that appear before the OS is up. May there is a mode to the BIOS CHIP? No. Your only options are to write it down, or take a picture with your camera.

Hey, you're pretty awesome, Patio.

I got everything switched over to my new COMPUTER. WHEW.

THanks to everybody! Excellent ! !
We LOVE SUCCESS stories around here...stop by anytime.

hi everytime i try to load up a game (gangsters 2) i GET this error

sorry...

unable to start game. Cannot access the direct DRAW driver.

this is a NEW problem i have played the game recently and it worked fine so I'm quite confused!

there is a system check in the gangsters 2 file which i have tried and it fails when it used to pass it comes up with system problems and says gangsters 2 requires a minimum of 4mb of useable video memory any HELP would be very much appreciated

thanks in advance NevSystem specs ? ?

hi guyzz....



every time i attach my portable player in my pc, i got this message.


(((( there is no disk in the drive. PLEASE INSERT a disk into the drive\device\harddisk2\dr8))))


my pc is a shared computer in our network, the network printers where attach in my pc.


everytime i connect i recieve that message -----there is no disk in the drive. please insert a disk into the drive\device\harddisk2\dr8


what is that? is possible that can damage my portable player??


need your assistance guyzzz....


thnks!!Portable Player? What type of player, make model ETC...also what OS are you running?Quote from: DaveLembke on October 22, 2008, 04:21:25 PM

Portable Player? What type of player, make model etc...also what OS are you running?

my machine is not posting because the ram slots are malfunctioning (the computer reads no ram) but i noticed that when i power on, even tho the fan on my cpu STARTS the fan on my grfx card does not. would a failure to even start the post be a cause of my gfx card not powering up?if i am reading this right you turn your computer on and get your bois to come up but then it hangs because of no ram.

Yes- i would try EITHER the card in another comp, a DIFFERENT gfx card, or a new motherboard.

no- try some new ram FIRST if still nothing, your mothoboard is DEAD.

The keyboard on my Toshiba Satellite laptop is messing up a bit. First off it was dropped YESTERDAY on the carpet. When you hit certain keys now different things pop up. When you hit certain keys no other key pop ups instead commands pop up. Like if you hit the C key the Explore window pops up the S key it goes back to the welcome screen. One key ASKS you if you'd like to use the virtual keyboard so I clicked that and a keyboard shows up on my screen. When you click the BUTTONS with the mouse on that keyboard on the screen the same output happens. I thought it was my keyboard but now I'm wondering if its an internal problem since the the virtual keyboard wasnt working. Any idea's? I have TRIED a system restore but thats all I could think to do.Ok for some REASON all my keys start working again when I click CRL ALT and DELETE after the start up. The task manager opens and then all the keys start working after I click it off. Whats that mean?

Hi,
I'm looking after a number of PCs of various ages. Our more modern PCs display their CPU speed alongside their CPU type. We have a number of PCs with processors stating that they are "x86 Family n Model n Stepping n AT/AT Compatible". Can ANYONE THROW any LIGHT on how fast the CPUS are on these processors?

Also, could you explain what AT/AT Compatible means? One of our PCs does not say this. What difference does that make to it?

Thanks
x86 is the arcitechture of most intel and AMD chips, and dates back to the original intel 8086 architecture. AT/AT compatible refers to the old IBM PC/AT and does not tell you much of anything about speed.

Recently my 350W Power Supply died on my HP Pav. Media m8370? (Not sure, not near the PC atm.). At least, that is what I had suspected from it's non-responsiveness. I replaced the supply with an identical Antec Basiq 350W, hooked it up accordingly and the machine booted for about 3-5 SECONDS before turning off. Afterwards, no response. I removed the video/sound and memory cards, and tried again with a 500W Antec that a FRIEND gave me; this time, no 3-5s boot; no response at all.

I'm assuming this is a motherboard problem. I am posting here to request some info on possible fixes. My machine is about 2.8ghz, 2gb ram. If it is a motherboard fix; around what will it cost me, and can I do the repair myself. If it is something else, what, and how can I go about isolating the problem?I WOULD TAKE it to a shop to find out the specific PBLM.

Hello Computer helpers

I've had this problem for quite a long time and i've lived with ignoring it for a while, but im starting to get irritated.

I am a computer gamer so i play various types of games. From what i know, usually, screen lag or FPS lag occurs when your computer's hardware or whatever cannot handle the graphics. But the thing is, this type of lag happens to me no matter what graphics i have on; being the maximum low to maximum high.

Here is what happens:

1. About 15-30 seconds of clear lag-free play

2. 5-10 seconds of screen lag (pretty bad too)

3. CONSTANT repetition of steps 1 and 2.

I don't know what could be causing this! I don't think it is my computer's specs or hardware because as i MENTIONED before, it happens on no matter what graphics im running the game on.

My candidates for the problem:

1. Virus

2. Bad fan (Toshiba satellite fan- its on the bottom of the laptop but i gave it leverage )

3. Maybe it really is a bad graphics card

Please help me ! It's possible that it could be any of those you have listed.

Would you mind posting your specs on the PC and the games you're trying to play please?I'll be able to do that for you when i get back from school but please leave a reply of what you mean by specs XD!What hardware is in this machine ? ?
CPU ?
RAM ?
Vid card ? ?

Etc...etc.Ok well it's a Toshiba Satellite Laptop A305D

Processor: AMD Turion64 x2 Mobile technology TL-60 2.00 ghz

The Graphics Card is an ATI Radeon

3 GB RAM

32 bit- operating system

Let me know what else you needbump -.-The ATI that's in your laptop is integrated, unless you have installed an aftermarket card. And the AMD Turion x2 TL-60 CPU isn't going to give the best performance either. Especially when gaming. You might look into upgrading your graphics card at least if you're into gaming.

The reason I say this is because according to a few expert REVIEWS, the A305D is significantly weaker at gaming, than the A305. (Again, that's assuming you haven't installed a better card already)but reducing the graphics level would resolve the issue, or at least make it less irritating, if the graphics chip was the cause.Well from what I know, you can't change graphics cards or processors or anything on laptops... am i wrong?Not neccessarily...some have cards that can be changed (very few)...others can be changed at a shop...not for the do-it -yourselfer.Quote from: BC_Programmer on January 29, 2010, 09:57:15 AM

but reducing the graphics level would resolve the issue, or at least make it less irritating, if the graphics chip was the cause.

Hi. I have a computer which thinks it has a C:drive, but it is not actually installed. At one point I think the owner had Norton and ghosted the drive. Does anyone know how to get rid of it? Is it in the L2 CACHE? There is another harddrive where I set up Windows XP PRO, SP2, that is labeled D:drive. I have deleted almost everything on the ghost C:drive, but I can't remove or format it. It's not actually a problem except that SEVERAL programs automatically write to C:? Thanks.What happens if you Right Click C Drive and go to Properties? What do you get?I get the standard menu like if you right-clicked on any drive - Open, explore, search, format, rename, properties, etc. No delete.Click on Properties and in your next reply, post what's on the screen.When I right-click on c:, go to properties, it shows Used space=3.13gb, free space=6.2gb, Capacity=9.75gb, file system=fat32, Type=local disk.
Originally there was a 10 gig HDD installed that ran the operating system, but I removed it for an 80 gig.It's possible either the old hard drive is still in there (10GB hard drive = ~<10gb) or the 80GB hard drive is partitioned.
Do the two hard drive Capacity numbers add up to ~80?It's still there...
What data is on it ? ?Physically the 10 gig HDD is removed from the mobo. The 80 gb is not partitioned. On the 10 Gb was the original windows and all associated folders - My documents, program files, etc. I removed the windows folders and as many of the rest as I could, but the programs files won't delete. It shows a "cannot delete error" - ImonNT.exe, access is denied. Make sure disk in not full or right protected. And when I try to remove the old Documents and Settings folder, I get "cannot delete - OP8RSBUV directory is not empty. This is located in temp. internet files, but won't let me delete. As a result of these files, I cannot reformat the drive either, hoping that by clearing it out, I would then have the option of deleting it. Didn't know what else to try. I reset the MOBO bios. This 10 gig drive does Not show up there!Strange.....

Just to make sure, you removed the WINDOWS folder from C drive?

Also, are you 200% CERTAIN the drive is not partitioned?yes and yes. Real head-scratcher, huh? I've been teaching and building computers for over 15 years. I've never run across this before.Awfully strange indeed...

Have you tried deleting the contents of C drive in Safe Mode?That's what I'm going to try next. I go over there (where the computer is) later today.All right, keep us posted.

Here's the situation... I've got a Dell Inspiron 531s running Windows Vista Home Premium with 2GB of RAM and dual 250GB hard drives set up as a single 250GB RAID1 MIRROR. Just being my personal computer I would much rather have 500GB of storage than 250GB, even if it means less security. So, I posted on a Dell forum asking how to get rid of the RAID, and someone quickly responded. I did what they said and now I can't get my computer to do anything...

The BIOS still shows both drives as being recognized, and the RAID SETUP still shows them, but if I just let my computer RUN it brings up a screen that displays

No boot DEVICE detected
SATA0: (disk info for HD1)
SATA1: (disk info for HD2)
SATA2: (disk info for DVD drive)
SATA3:

I don't know if you NEED more info or what, but I really don't know anything about RAID and am just hoping that there's a way to fix it. Please Help!What did Dell have you do ? ?
I'm not 100% sure on this but you normally have to re-install your OS after eliminating a RAID array.This is what I was told,

"Assuming that you have RAID1 [Mirror] Boot the system, enter the RAID BIOS setup, select Delete Raid Volume and set the drives to a non-RAID configuration.
With RAID 1, you should have 2 hard drives that are exactly the same, after this, you can partition and format the second hard drive.
You will receive a message saying, the RAID volume data will be lost, this is a true statement for RAID 0, but not for RAID 1 and can be ignore, your data on the RAID 1 volumes should be safe.
After exiting, you should see TWO hard drives as Non-Raid either immediately or after a reboot."

So yeah... Anyways, I pulled out one of the drives to see if I could reformat just one of them, but then the RAID went all crazy and Windows wouldn't even recognize there was a drive there. I put both back in and just completely removed all RAID settings, reformatted both drives together and then finally was able to reinstall Windows on just one and the other is now formatted and blank... and RAID free...

Luckily my computer does a weekly backup to an external hard drive, so I didn't end up losing much. But it was quite the experience...

I have a lenovo 3000 n100 that shut off for no reason. I can be using the laptop for hours and it just turns off. It goes on but shuts off after 5minutes, and the same thing happens. I've change the ac adapter, but the same thing happen, What could it be? Contact me at [emailprotected] with suggestions.


e-mail addy removed to prevent SPAM.Hows the cooling?

Download and install Speed Fan.
Run the program and tell us what the TEMPERATURE readings are.

In the mean time, put an external fan next to the computer and see how that goes.
I downloaded speed fan and got theses reading before the laptop shut down.
down arrow HDO 35C
Check Temp 1:48C
check and Core 0: 44C -46C
arrow up

check and Core1: 44C-46C
arrow up

What is clocking does this have anything to do with anything( stop after getting the warning window)?


I am using my desktop to send this message.Clocking? What do you mean?

Are you getting any error messages?

When did the problem start? Any recent changes? (downloads, INSTALLS, hardware changes, ect...)Nice graphic Carbon

Alan <>< Quote from: ale52 on October 21, 2008, 08:04:55 AM

Nice graphic Carbon

Alan <><

Hi, I recently built a custom computer and the minute I turn it on, it immediately has 2 short beeps, and 1 loud irritatingly long beep... At first I figured it was because there was no OS installed, however the beep still continued after I installed XP successfully. I can successfully boot up Windows, install drivers/program and there is no visible problems.

One thing I did afterwards was go into the bios and loaded optimal performance defaults. Surprisingly, the loud long beep disappeared, but the 2 short beeps continued and instead of the annoying long beep that follows right after, I receive the "successful boot beep" sound that I heard a million times in my previous computers. Dunno how to describe that sound but... its the beep sound that goes off on a successful post I believe.

If there is ONE symptom, I found out that in the BIOS menu the keyboard response is EXTREMELY slow. For example, if I press the down arrow key, there is a 3~4 second lag before going down the menu. What does this imply? This happens in both my USB and ps/2 keyboards.

Again, no visible problems after boot up but I'm concerned about problems that MAY prop up later along the road. I still have time to return/replace parts so I'd LIKE to find out exactly what the problem is. Any recommendations?

BTW my motherboard is an MSI G31M3-L V2 with an AMI bios. Ram is a Corsair DDR2 PC2-6400 TWIN XMS(2gbx2). Listing these because it seems if there is hardware problem, its usually these two that would signal beep codes.

Please help me solve this problem, thanks!http://www.bioscentral.com/ <<---go there and down the left hand side is a list of bios SYSTEMS and the post beep codes, use that to identify what the beep codes mean. Gl

Will an UXGA SCREEN WORK in a DELL C840 that has a BROKEN SXGA in it now.

Can i upgrade laptop like more memory, more processors etc.You can probably upgrade the memory, and possibly the CPU although that is more tricky.
99% probably not the graphics card, but you can probably upgrade the HDD too.Memory and HDD are pretty easy. Processor . . . not so much. Graphics cards in laptops are usually part of the motherboard and UPGRADING those is kind of not possible. For PIRATICAL reasons, NO! What I mean is if the laptop is pretty good, you can SELL it to someone else and them go buy the one you want for almost what it would cost to upgrade the old laptop. Quote

sell it to someone else and them go buy the one you want for almost what it would cost to upgrade the old laptop.

Will a AMD Athlon X2 Dual-Core work in my HP Pavilion p6243w Desktop PC?

PROCESSOR: HTTP://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/processors/athlon-x2/Pages/AMD-athlon-x2-processor-competitive-comparison.aspx
Computer: http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=12347233
Yes

Here is what your motherboard supports:

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01701270&tmp_track_link=ot_faqs/top_issues/en_ie/c01701270/loc:1&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=ie&product=4011194&lang=en

I have a coolmaster 650 watt psu and want to KNOW if it will work with a geforce 280 gtx. The psu I have has 2x 6 pin connections, but the geforce 280 says it requires a 4 and 8 pin connectors. I am told I can use a six pin, but will I have to PLUG in both six pin connectors? Also will this 650 watt be enough to run the system and a geforce 280? Thanks!! It's NEVER a good idea to plug a square PEG into a round hole! You can purchase an adapter though. Something like this.

You didn't give any information about the rest of your computer; OS, CPU, RAM, hard DRIVES, optical drives, etc. etc. More info, please.

So I ACQUIRED an Intel Xeon PROCESSOR. It is socket 604. I know it's for a server, and I'm not TRYING to BUILD a server. I'm curious if I can use this with a socket 775 MB? You need a socket 604 motherboard, it will not work with any other socket.

Getting things ready to replace a MainBoard and NEED to replant the CPU from old MB to NEW. I understand that the type of paste is important. Which brand(s) are SAFE to use? Additionally, do I need just rubbing alcohol to clean up the CPU before I replant it?I use Coolermaster.Arctic Silver.

Instruction Sheet.I like Arctic Cooling MX-2, and OCZ Freeze (bought the first because the second was out of stock, then bought the second because the first was out of stock).
Both WORK great for me, nice and cheap too.

I made a big mistake tonight. I was taking out some fans on my COMPUTER and aparantly i left one of the expansion cables for additional fans plugged into the computer. I turned my computer back on and was simply stuffing ther cables back in the computer and one of the two PINS on the fan connecter TOUCHED the case and sparked, then the power went off. Is there any chance of it having hurt any components. Its a NEWER coolermaster 550 watt. Is there some kind of protection inside the ps for this?The ps had OVP\OPP short circut protection. Would this have protected the computer?Short circuit protection might help survive the episode.

Only acid test is to check all connectors securely in place and any exposed pins kept tucked out the way - and try it. Thinking tho - if you had/saw sparks then not that good of a sign as the few MICRO seconds of that might have been damaging.

I'll keep fingers crossed!

I checked and TROUBLE shot the software and it says everything is ok. The SOUND portion of the PC is on the Main board (I know that's crummy, but it is what it is)
Any SUGGESTIONS aside from telling her to just go and purchase a sound card?Have you checked the speakers and their cord? More SPECS might be useful...

Hello Forum,
I was hoping someone hear could help me with an issue that arose this morning with my PC. Last night it started lagging and this morning it WOULD boot to the point that the the fans would start but I would not get any display at all and the system would freeze there. I then rebooted again and my monitor displayed a message that stated "check signal cable" I did this and the connection was secure. I shut it off and rebooted to hopefully get into safe mode and try to boot from the last known good configuration, the fans started and a message appeared STATING "Non System Disk - Checksum error". This is the last time I got any display at all, I connected a different monitor to no avail, I thought it might be the CMOS battery and I replaced that, then I attempted to run my Windows Install disk and it would not boot with that. I am lost and would appreciate any help,
Thank youSimple answer is you have a hardware problem.
Do you hear the hard drive rev up?
Can you get into the BIOS?
In the BIOS area there is some way to see if the Hard drive and the CD drive are connected. Maybe the cables came loose.
Thanks for the quick response, all I could hear for sure starting up was the fans, I have no display on my monitor so I can not get into BIOS, I checked my power and data cables and they are well connected.Have you tried another monitor?
How old is this machine and what happened prior to this ? ?
Any new hardware installed recently ? ?

A flaky PSU will show intermittent/different hardware issues...borrow a known good one and swap it in there.Thanks everyone,
I have tried another monitor and that didn't work either, I built this system around May of last year, the only symptoms it displayed before dying was lagging while I was surfing, my wife was last on it and she shut it down, it was when I tried to boot it the following morning that it started. I don't have another power supply or access to one, the fans do appear to be fine when it is powered on The video card may have worked loose. Notice the keyboard lights. Do you remember how the used to flash? If they do not flash LIKE they used to, you may have a major failure. Don't mean to be so negative, but PSU most often goes all the way down and will not power the fans. But the keyboard lights indicate that the BIOS is RUNNING and going through its routine.My guess is bad Video card. Only a guess. Still, having a spare PSU is not a bad idea. They do have a high failure rate. Thanks,
The Video Card Huh? I will setup the offending system and check the lights, as perverse as it sounds, I am kinda satisfied to have a major error to FIX as I am an aspiring PC Tech.

A friend of mine asked me to reformat the harddrive in his computer. Heres the specs:
AMD 64 Athlon
1.5gb of ram (in 2 x 256mb and 2 x 512mb)
160gb IDE HDD
onboard graphics
and a 288W PSU

Ive spent the last 10 hours trying to get it to work. and i havnt gotten very far. At first, it kept turning off about a minute after booting from the XP disc. Eventually, i figured out its overheating. The temp monitor in the BIOS said it was sitting at about 100C. When it gets to 125, it turns off. So I cleaned it out, added a bunch of FANS, cleaned the CPU heatsink and replaced the thermal paste, took the side off, and after all that, it was only down to like 92C in bios and still overheated when installing XP. Right now I have it RUNNING by an open window (its about -20C outside) and the bios says its about 78C. It does work, but thats hardly a practical solution. Is it possible theres something wrong with the sensor?

Well, that would seem like its enough trouble for one computer. but no. Ive finally reformatted the harddrive, which seemed to go relatively well, when it was DONE, it did its stuff and then restarted like it should. When it restarted, it got to the XP loading screen and now its just sitting there, endlessly loading. smae thing happens in safe mode except it sits at a giant list of directories.

I should mention that the reason im reformatting it in the first place is because when it turns on normally (this is before I did anything to it), it gets past the XP loading screen normally, then it flashes blue and restarts. If it helps, the blue screen says this:

Quote

STOP: c0000218 {Registry File Failure}
The registry cannot load the hive (file):
\SystemRoot\System32\Config\SOFTWARE
or its log or alternate.
It is CORRUPT, absent, or not writable.

Beginning dump of physical memory
Physical memory dump complete.
Conact your system adminisstrator or technical support group for further
assistance.

...i figured out its overheating. The temp monitor in the BIOS said it was sitting at about 100C. When it gets to 125, it turns off. So I cleaned it out, added a bunch of fans, cleaned the CPU heatsink and replaced the thermal paste, took the side off, and after all that, it was only down to like 92C in bios and still overheated when installing XP. Right now I have it running by an open window (its about -20C outside) and the bios says its about 78C. It does work, but thats hardly a practical solution. Is it possible theres something wrong with the sensor?...

hello guys...

Hope to get an advice from you. I'm having this problem with my Advent 7011's LAN adapter (which is SiS 900 Fast ETHERNET Adapter). I can not see my network adapter ICON on my Network Connection environment. I can't even uninstall it from the system. Its integrated with the MotherBoard. Is there any way that i can restore back the TCP/IP configuration? (ofcourse i don't even have a restore POINT to roll it back). can anyone drop me a line on how i either can configure it or do something else ....when i want to uninstall it , a message with "the device can be used to boot the computer" comes up, and when i want to install a simple TCP/IP, the subject of this message comes....THANKYOU guys (but pls a quick RESPONCE)...thx again...what is showing in device manager [networkadapters]?

I currently have a single core Intel Pentuim 4 3.06GHz socket 775 CPU and I want to upgrade to a new Intel Pentium Dual Core E5400 2.7GHz 800FSB Socket 775 2MB 2x1MB L2 Cache Reta and I want to know what id need to do to do this.

I have XP home SP3

I have heard many things about installing from a single to dual.

First of all is that if i were just to plug it in now , it would only run as a single core cpu.

second thing i have heard is that i would have to reinstall windows , I have the cd so thats not that much of a problem.

Third thing , and most worrying , is a DOWNLOAD , a program named HAL (Hardware something Layer) MIGHT need to be upgraded.

But give me your suggestion on how to install them.

I already know how to physically install it on the motherboard and apply the thermal paste , it is just the OS i am worried about really...Find out the model of your motherboard and look up what cpu's are compatible with it on the manufacturer's website. Or look in the manual, it will tell you in there also. The only way to be sure a certain processor will work on a board is to check in the manual or on the website. If the list of processors for your board has some core 2 duo cpu's then choose one of them. If its in the list then it should install with no problems or need to change software.Good advice above...

Since it's only the CPU being changed then XP probably will not even hiccup....but if it does it's an easy remedy...
Especially since you have an XP CD.

Repair Install of XP

I suggest reading thru it to get familiar paying special attention to the warnings.
And print out a copy for reference before starting.

Best of Luck on the new CPU.O i already know how to do a repair install , I did one 3 days ago and everything is fine.

In relatio0n to this manual , do you mean if it can support the socket and the number of cores? If so I am ompletely sure that this will work...BUT my main issue really was that i might have to install something or change a bios setting. bios scares me...

I get this because i have read that sometimes the cpu will only use 1 core of the cpu , thinking it is single core , and not use both or all four until you install an update to the hardware abstraction layerLook at your motherboard. There should be an identifiable number, somewhere near the RAM and CPU. Go to the boards manufacturer's website. If there is no number that you can see on the board, the manufacturer might have a scan tool on their website that will help you ID the board. If they do, great, that means they will also tell you what hardware is compatible with it. If there is no such tool, look for your board, and then look where it shows compatible CPU's.

If you find a number on the board, post it here while you go on your scavenger hunt. Since they are both socket 775 CPU's, and there isn't anything else restricting you from installing the E5400, I would go ahead and make the switch.

Once you install it, if everything seems to be fine at first, go straight into BIOS and look to see if it's showing both cores. Or you could let Windows load and go into Task Manager and look for two graphs under CPU Usage. If there are two, and they are both running, all should be well. If there is still only one, you may need to do the re-install that patio suggested.

Odds are, you will probably need to update BIOS. And then even if all seems well, I would still do a FRESH install of the OS. Just to avoid any possible complications.Why do we still not know which MBoard this is ? ?

That does make a difference...

Hello Everyone,
I have a Inspiron 1300 laptop and I recently changed the Memory Module from 256 MG to 1 GB and all is well.. I read in the manuel somewhere (a long time ago) that the maximum memory was 1 GB which is why I stopped there..
I have since heard and read that some folks went up to 2 GB without any difficulty or issues. Now I don't know if, for what I use the laptop for, I would ever need anymore memory but I do have this perfectly good 256 MG Memory Module just laying there and was wondering if I would experience any issues should I put install it in the other slot??? Has ANYONE gone over the 1 GB with the Inspiron 1300??
Would appreciate any input on this.. Thank You!
LarryTo double check this consult your Owners manual...if you cannot locate it it's probably AVAILABLE as a download at the manuf. website...just ENTER your machine ID and go to the support/download section.
Another OPTION would be to travel to crucial.com's website where they have an extensive database on what type of RAM and how much a machine will use properly...

I wouldn't go on just heresay that others have done it and risk possible damage to the machine.
Good Luck...Hello,
Thanks for your response. I checked the site you posted and it said 2048 MG (2 GB).. but just to be on the safe side I browsed throught the owners manual, found the spec's and the spec's said;
2 GB (Pentium)
1 GB (Celeron)
With that info and I have the Celeron M and probably not needing more memory than the 1 GB, will leave well enough alone and use the extra module for a backup if needed in the future.
Again, thanks again for your help..
LarryNo trouble at all and BTW Welcome Aboard ! !

A family member asked me to replace her Toshiba M35x-s349 laptop display for her. I hooked up an external monitor to check video drivers, ETC..worked fine. After dismantling the unit I found that someone elso had been into it before and didn't replace all the screws. ALSO, the is a small black wire with a round connector on it that was not hooked to a screw..I have no idea where it goes. It is wrapped with the wire coming from the MB. It may be not used since it is pretty short, but just need to be sure.

Also, I ORDERED the display and also a backlight. I installed the lcd, but don't see where the small backlight goes. I powered it up and got a brief small display on the LOWER right hand corner of the screen...than nothing. The system booted but no video. I am curious if I should replace the INVERTER board? Can anyone assist me in troubleshooting this? Thanks.

here is my problem: the onscreen display of my MONITOR had gone HAYWIRE, that is, it started to change the monitor settings on by itself..also, i could not counteract this because pressing the buttons in my monitor (which supposedly made the OSD appear) had no effect.

here is a video i recorded about the phenomenon
http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?4nfmm3ghdlk

by the way, here is my computer information
OS NameMicrosoft Windows XP Professional
Version5.1.2600 Service Pack 3 Build 2600
1.80 GHz, 1.00 GB of RAM

AOC Model: F1770
NVIDIA GeForce 7300 SE/7200 GS
The sharpness of your video is pretty bad, so I can't really see much.
What is that bar in the middle, and jumping green squares/
Does it happen at booting?Sorry about the sharpness of the video.
Here is another video, a 'sharper' one.
http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?zkjwumlymz5

The green one simply means that a setting was selected
and can be modified. So what happens is that many of the
settings are modified with me doing nothing, (it just goes on
it own). It especially bugs me when the image setup is altered
(the v-size and h-size, the zoom LEVEL, etc.).

This happens as long as the monitor is TURNED on.Honestly, I've never seen anything like that before.
Same thing in Safe Mode?I've never tried to boot in safe mode. So I'll try.
I'll reply after doing so. Thanks for the persistence
in answering me. Even on safe mode it happens.
Apparently, it happens whenever the monitor is turned on.Do you have Windows CD?That appears to be the on screen display that's built into the monitor. I've never known an operating system to interact with it. Have the buttons on your monitor been damaged?

(That video is excellent for troubleshooting your issue, by the way!) No real cd. And the monitor buttons have no damage either. I wonder what's going on.Tried the monitor on another machine ? ?

My guess as to what may be happening here is a bad cold solder joint on the board close to the pots for the monitor buttons and when the unit heats up and the contact expands it's causing the above...
Generally speaking monitors are like Bic lighters...when they run out of GAS you throw them out and get a new one. They're usually too expensive to be repaired.

Speedfan gives me four READINGS, but how do I know which one is which? They are labeled Temp1 (Asus F8000), Temp2 (Asus F8000), Temp3 (Asus F8000), and Core (AMD K8). I think the one labeled "core" is the video card because it gives me the same reading as rivatuner.Basically, SpeedFan reads whatever your BIOS says, so to really know, which temp is which, you have to go to BIOS, and see what's there.

http://www.almico.com/sffaq.php
Quote

Which temperature is which?
There are several ways to label available readings (temperatures, voltages, fan speeds). The first source should be the BIOS. Enter BIOS at boot, write down LABELS and readings and compare them to those reported by SpeedFan. You can use manufacturer's custom hardware monitors to match readings too. SpeedFan strictly adheres to available datasheets for each sensor chip. Please remember that hardware monitors chips have some pins (SMALL connectors) that should be connected to some additional hardware (temperature PROBES, thermistors or thermocouples) in order to be able to read temperatures. Only a few hardware monitor chips do label their connectors with "CPU", "System" and the like. Most of them use labels like "Temp1", "Local" or "Remote". Hardware manufacturers connect available pins to different temperature sensors basically according to the PHYSICAL placement of components on the motherboard. This means that the same chip, an ITE IT8712F, for example, might be connected to a sensor diode measuring CPU temperature on Temp2 and, on a different hardware, it might be connected on Temp1. If you have a "Local" sensor and a "Remote" labeled one, this usually means that "Local" is the temperature of the monitor chip itself and "Remote" is the temperature read from a "remote" probe. When you have properly identified which temperature sensor is which, try to lower the speed of each fan and look at reported speed and temperatures. This way you can match PWM controls (speeds) with fans. Please, note that if you do not allow SpeedFan to change any fan speed and set all the speeds too low, then SpeedFan won't be able to avoid overheating.

Temp2 is probably not be an actual reading, sometimes Speedfan does that

Is it worth buying a media card [already have a 3650 ati video card] The card is a ati Tv wonder 650 it has 2 coaxel connectors and a sound plug in.Can i use the the video card dvi plug in and sound in back of the video card instead and get the same results as PUTTING in the media card tv wonder 650 ?

I am planning to buy this Graphic Card

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8983736&type=product&id=1218005635281

and it SAYS in System Requirements it needs "425W Power supply" Would it even run if I only have 300W?

I asked Geek Squad online and they told me it wouldn't even run.

Also for Power supplies If I were to upgrade from the 300W. Will any work as long as it fits in the tower and has the same amount of Pins?Of course, you will have to upgrade your power supply. and yes, any would work just as long it fits the case and have the same amount of pins. i would suggest up to 500W or 750W, for that would be ENOUGH for further upgrades425W PCI Express®-compliant system power supply with a combined 12V current rating of 28A or more

REMEMBER, to check out that the 12 V rail has at least 28A. The 12V rail amperage is important. You could just get by with a 430W PSU with at least 28A on 12V rail and you'll be HAPPY, given that you don't INTEND to upgrade anything else anytime soon

Okay so I had my machine on overnight crunching through processing RAW video for my school project...and woke up in the night to a loud fan grinding. (my old but faithful) Radeon 9700 Pro fan was churning away making alot of noise...anyway i shut it off and when I GOT home I took my card out and PLACED on it a Iceberg VGA cooler i had lying around.

Putting it back in the case...all happy until my finger slips and *snap* off comes a little silver cap.

OH NOES goes through my head and I immediately panic...I have no replacement if it doesnt work and I'm a student so cant afford a new card (I want a x1550

Anyway I put it in and power up and the system seems to be stable and all...but i want to know is it safe to run it like this??

The details from what I can read on the cap are:

47
j PK
2BN

Is it even needed?

My card still benchmarks just fine

any details would be helpful,
Kurtis

P.S I have noticed in some games a slight performance decrease...*gulp*

Would anyone reccommend replacing with a 7300GT? (DDR3 edition)


What silver cap would this be?

On the video card itself?
http://techreport.com/r.x/radeon-9700pro/r9700pro2.jpgQuite small, perhaps 5mm by 5mm

I believe it is the one circled in the picture...if it isn't its the same size/near same area.
I was panicking at the time of course

and also it was near the top of course because that's where im applying pressure to get the *censored* thing in...
Thing is...It is running fine still it hasn't rebooted since iv'e put it back in and no complaints for ANYTHING...was playing WoW for a hour and a half no probs just a few fps slower, eg 30-40 compared to 35-45 before

[Saving space - attachment deleted by admin]It's pretty hard to tell exactly what that is in the picture.
If the video card is working, it seems like it's not important for the video card to run.

Does this piece have anything on it that suggests it was connected to something? (like a circuit or another component)There is a circled object in the picture?
And the 7300gt is a very nice card for the money. ive got one (ddr2, i think( might only be ddr) runs pretty wellThat's good to hear and yeah i made it quite think and red which now i think bout it i shuda made it blue haha

(you might have to click the image to see it )

Well it is running and all so yeah hope it doenst die!!

KurtisSo there are no connectors on the cap?

If not, good. Maybe its just a diode cover, but if it works, then its ok. but NEXT time don't push your graphic through the night, its dangerous!Maybe its just a diode cover, but if it works, then its ok. but next time don't push your graphic through the night, its dangerous!I'm wondering, what windows version do you use, what's your computer specs and what's your expected budget for a new graphics card?

If you have PCI-E slot, 8600GT is pretty good. You can get a model of 8600GT for about same price as the 7300GT from newegg (with rebate coming with the 8600GT and both cards have ddr3 memory)No PCI-e slot :p my specs r in my sig by the way

And no it was soldered to the board with two pins and these pins lead off somewhere else...and do not know enough about cards to know exactly where they head

anyways go figure i haven't got any error with it in fact sometimes it seems to run BETTER...accidental voltage mod?? lolI guess all is well then.

I still suggest you upgrade your graphics card now and then so that your computer's a little more updated, so more happiness Quote from: iamyourmom on October 23, 2008, 11:17:20 PM

but next time don't push your graphic through the night, its dangerous!