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I'm having issues with a PNY GeForce GT 220 1GB GPU i'm trying to install. The card is seated properly. I installed it and then turned the PC back on and everything was fine, other than the resolution. So I inserted the Driver CD and installed the driver from it. It asked to restart so I agreed. It wouldn't shut down properly and a blue screen popped up saying something about memory dump. It's hard to read because it only stays on screen for about 3 seconds.

So I restart in safe mode with networking, and download the newest driver and install it. Same result as above. When I first installed the card and booted, Windows tried to find and install drivers with no SUCCESS. I've ALSO disabled my AV program in the startup menu and turned off Windows Firewall, that doesn't help either.

Windows Vista 32bit
Dell (Foxconn) G33M02 MoBo
Intel E5400 GPU
3GB DDR2 667MHz RAM
WD Caviar 80GB HDDMany people heare a re ready yo help you.

But first
What video card did you have before?
Did you really do the install the way they said to do it?

Does the manual say the you must set the VGA back to plain VGA first, before you power down remove the old card?

Many HARDWARE devices, especially graphics cards, are very picky, picky sabot the exact sequence of things you do with the installation.

If you mess up the system, you may have to put the old card back in and reboot in last good configuration.

So, did you put the old card in and get back to good configuration in safe mode?

New machine or is this Mum's upgrade ? ?
Brand new card ? ?Yeah it's my mother's upgrade. And a brand new card from newegg.

@ Geek-9pm, The system didn't have a video card prior to the one i'm trying to install. Just Intel's Graphic Accelerator/onboard video.

It seems that the driver is CONFLICTING with something, because I can uninstall the driver and not have the issues i've stated above. Only problem is the resolution isn't right and I can't adjust it without the driver being installed.What's the PSU rated at ? ?Well its 585W. +12V @ 20A, and +12 @ 19A. But the card doesn't plug into the PSU.I can get into Windows through safe mode, but I can't "Start Windows Normally". At least not with the driver for the card installed. I don't know what that means.Dell community recommended Driver install instructionsQuote from: cruisin702 on February 04, 2010, 10:20:15 PM

Dell community recommended Driver install instructions

Sir,

I am using the system with the configuration:
140 AMD sempron
gigabyte mother board
1 GB RAM
160 GB hard disk

Can I add another Ram of 4 GB .I doubt that if My system supports that much RAM.
Currently my system's access speed is LITTLE bit slow and some times It's hanging up.Some experts are suggesting me that the processor is low and It is very poor compared to Dual core.What are the AMD processors launched after AMD sempron 140 ?

some times when I started my sytem the programs are loading Low access speed by consuming a lot of time.But it 's happening only some times.

I scanned the system with quick heal and deleted the virus with Malwarebytes software.But still the same thing happens.

Please suggest me that whether I can continue with this processor.
Hello helpin,

You could probably upgrade your processor and add RAM.

What Operating System do you have, and do you know the model # of the Gigabyte board?* My question is that can I upgrade only the RAM? ANd let me know if the processor Sempron 140 is the cause for this.Is the problem raised because of the Processor?I doubt that the system is slow because of Processor or Motherboard .I purchased it 4 Months ago and till the Date of purchase I am having this slowness problem .

*Can I upgrade t0 4 GB RAM to the same processor?
*I am using the XP OS
*Can I get this model Number in system properties window?

I am including the Performance information of my CPU

I checked the Performance using task manager At restart of my system is: CPU usage :0%- 2 % . PF usage295 MB

While using This just one site vark in browser CPU usage :0%- 4 % . PF usage 350 MB

while MS word,blue voda,browser, VLC player is CPU usage :0%-5 % . PF usage 441 MB

* And I USED to clean my PC regularly using glary utilities,ccleaner * I also have memory improve master installed . It shows 32% of memory usage at only OS running and 42 -65 % of memory usage at other programs running . Paging file usage is 15 % -19 % and CPU usage is 2-9 %

memory usage reading in this memory Improve master is some times 65% If I use 4-7 tabs in my firefox browser.
I purchsed it a 3 months ago and the hard disk using now is 160 of GB for temporary purpose.Actual Hard disk purchased with this system is of 250 GB(SEAGATE SATA)and is at service center .

As I am using new hard disk now ,It has a original OS installed which is installed recently a 10 ago.

I used to install the OS frequently In other hard disk too (250 GB which I explained above),As It is used to give trouble frequently.At that time too I faced this slowness problem.Quote from: helpin on January 31, 2010, 10:11:53 PM

* My question is that can I upgrade only the RAM? ANd let me know if the processor Sempron 140 is the cause for this.Is the problem raised because of the Processor?I doubt that the system is slow because of Processor or Motherboard .I purchased it 4 Months ago and till the Date of purchase I am having this slowness problem .

*Can I upgrade t0 4 GB RAM to the same processor?
*I am using the XP OS
*Can I get this model Number in system properties window?

BTW, your CPU, isn't a bad one, but it's not great either. It's only a single core, (dual core actually, but I doubt you'll be able to unlock the second), and a good dual core will result in better overall perfomance.

I am not sure if i follow it .

Hi. I'm in the middle of building my first computer. I'm just waiting for the Graphic Card to arrive. I've purchased a Corsair power supply and before installing it in the computer and getting it all connected thought I'd test it out. I connected it up to the power supply then plugged in my DVD player. Nothing. None of the connectors seem to have any power to them. I've checked the power cable to the supply and that's ok. Should there be power to these connectors or does it have to be connected up to the motherboard ect before it will supply power to the connectors? Is there a start up sequence the motherboard begins?

I'm trying it out as I only have 48 hours to check it and let the supplier know of any faults ect and I can't put the complete system together yet as I'm short the graphics card, monitor and keyboard.

Hopefully someone knows the answer to this question. ThanksOn your first build you will need some help. The power supply does not give power until the motherboard gives a signal. Do lyou have a friend to help your? Do lyou have any guides or videos that show you what to expect?
Here is a video with no voice, no pretty girls and is very detailed and takes a hour.
http://www.5min.com/Video/How-to-Build-Your-Own-PC-6867Great, the information needed and a very speedy reply. Unfortunately I don't have anyone to help but hopefully should be ok but for a few simple questions like this. I've been googling for all and any info and videos for about a month now so have quite a bit of info. I wouldn't really have noticed it but thought I'd test the PSU, case fans and DVD and noticed no power but now know I can't test this way. AH well, just gotta hope all the bits I've purchased do work. I'm not so worried as the company I'm purchasing all the bits from is Scan, quite a good company, and all the bits are of good quality e.g.; a Gigabyte MOBO, Samsung f3 Spinpoint HD, intel i5 CPU, Corsair PSU ect.

Again, thanks for the HELPYOU'll do fine...we'll be here...To test the basic function of an ATX power supply, short the Green wire with one of the grounds. This should turn the power supply on.
ATX PinoutDo you mean the green wire on the ATX 24 pin motherboard connector? And would that be with a ground on the same connector? And will that turn on the PSU so there is power at the other connectors?

Thanks for the help everyone. I'll post with any more questions as they arise and let you know how I get on but the build wont be completed till the end of the month . . . That graphic card is really expensive.. Just seen the LINK at the end of your post and tried it.

PSU is fine, case fans work and so does the DVD. Again, thanks for the info.Hopefully this is where I put further questions about my computer build. I did consider starting a new thread but not sure if I should as it's a continuation of my original question but simply a different hardware question.

Maybe someone could point me in the right direction on this point.

Anyway, here's the question. If I ever needed to reset the cmos I could take the battery out but the motherboard also has a couple of pins for that which I simply short out. (this is in the motherboard manuel). To do that I would need to take the side panel off and though it's easy enough could I not connect up a 'reset cmos' switch somewhere on the case? I'd make it one of those ones where you insert a pin or something to ACTIVATE the switch so that it couldn't be pressed accidentally.

And I have thanked some people but my summary shows 0 thanked.Stay with the same Topic...probably best.

For the amount of times you may need a CMOS reset i'm not sure cobbling together an external switch would be wort it...

Good idea for future case manuf. though... Yea, you're right but I'm considering over clocking the cpu and ram (once I get to that stage) and may have to reset a few times if it's not stable so being lazy and as I've just connected everything up thought it might be worth it.

Might email a few companies with the suggestion for, as you say, future case manufacture.

Thanks.

What MBoard are you buying ? ?
ASUS for example has an OC utility; crash free BIOS; and EZ flash utility that enables you to make changes on the fly from a USB drive or floppy and can be reset at each boot...no opening the case required at all.
Here's what I've got so far

Purchased

Antec 300 case
Gigabyte GA-P55-US3L mobo
Intel i5-750 CPU
Corsair vx550w PSU (as recommended by well known company here in UK)
Corsair (2x1gb) TwinX XMS3 DDR3
Samsung 500gb HD502HJ SpinPoint F3
LiteOn IHAP122-19 22x DVD+and-, 8xDVD


Here's what's still to purchase

Nvidia Geforce GTX285
Saitek PK 02AV Eclipse II Wired Keyboard
22" Digimate - DGM L-2262WD Black, Widescreen LCD


Looking in the mobo manual the mobo has Dual-Bios, Q-Flash And @Bios and comes with SMART6. This has

Quickboot - speeds up boot up process
Quickboost - 3 levels of CPU over-clocking automatically without touching the bios ( a restart is needed though)
SMART Recovery - creates backups of changed data files
Dual Bios - self explanatory
SMART Recorder - monitors and records the activity in a system
SMART Timelock - allows users to manage computer usage time

The quickboost sounds great but only allows you to take the CPU to about 3.8GHz and looking at everything on line and a few magazines I subscribe to over here the CPU will go to 4.2GHz with the motherboard purchased. It's the mobo they actually used with the CPU in the over-clocking test in one of the magazines and they give all their settings used. There will be differences in how far I can over-clock, I'm sure, because the rest of my system is different than theirs.

This is a little off in the future yet as I still have to purchase that GPU, monitor and keyboard....

I just replaced the video card on my computer because my old one went out. N ow the problem is that whenever I play videos on my computer, whether disks LIKE from blockbusters or NETFLIX or from online sources like youtube, the video is very jerky. ALSO when I view images on my computer like family pictures and move them up or down on the screen, the movement is very jerky. Has this behavior got something to do with the video card and if so how do I fix it?
New drivers installed ? ?I had installed the ones that came on the DISK that came with the card. No luck. Then I went to the manufacturer website, DOWNLOADED and installed them, and voila, worked like a charm. I guess they didnt give me the right drivers on the disk

its all good now
thanks

First thing I'm no corrupter whiz but I'm no idiot with computers just put that out there

OK well WEEK ago my PSU DIED on me. So i took it best buy and did the test since i wasn't sure and the guy said it was PSU. so i just looked up how to replace it looks easy enough so i took it out to see the stats on it so i can find out what to buy and replace myself.

So really my question is what's a PSU i can buy at a decent price or what do i NEED look at when deciding one? because the stats on the PSU i really don't understand what they mean and what to look at. Also reading about old computer have 20 pin CONNECTOR plus 4 and new PCs has one 24 not sure what all that means. But on my PSU it has 1 (20 pin) has hook lock on it, 1 (4 pin) that is a square also had lock on it, 4 (big 4 pins) 1 (small 4 pins)

here is the MODEL i have now HP-A2027F3

http://www.impactcomputers.com/hp-a2027f3.html

I don't plan on upgrading my PC anytime soon unless i need to. i don't do really do big games on it besides few web games and i just use it to surf the web and type up papers for school. So i don't need a end of the line PSU just need one to meet my needs and last a while just like my last one

Thanks for reading and to whoever decides to help me
According to this website: http://www.justpowersupplies.com/hipro-HP-A2027F3-power-supply.htm you cannot replace this power supply with a normal ATX PSU because the original one is shortened to fit. I would recommend buying the same exact one that you have already. Just to be certain that it will fit and work correctly.Quote from: JOEVSYOU on February 05, 2010, 01:27:09 PM

...So i took it best buy and did the test since i wasn't sure and the guy said it was PSU...

Just because the guy at Best Buy says it's the PSU means nothing. You might want to tell us exactly what happened.

According to this website: http://www.justpowersupplies.com/hipro-HP-A2027F3-power-supply.htm you cannot replace this power supply with a normal ATX PSU because the original one is shortened to fit. I would recommend buying the same exact one that you have already. Just to be certain that it will fit and work correctly.

I have hp deskjet F2180 printer, but I cant get it to print on this computer.
(On my other computer it works just fine). However, it seems like the connection between them exists and works,
I am able to even scan.

The files I try to print appear in the print queue, as they should. On the first one the status is "printing", but
nothing happens. I am not able to remove the files from the queue, therefore not able to
remove the printer - one time I think I was able to do it by restarting the print SPOOLER. (I first
clicked delete on the printers-list, and after that restarted the spooler, the printer disappeared)

I have tried to reinstall the drivers and the software of the printer several times, but it does not seem to work.

What could be the problem?

I run Vista home premium.Make sure the HP is set as your default printerQuote from: Allan on February 05, 2010, 09:28:38 AM

Make sure the HP is set as your default printer

"There may be 2 HP icons in there...1 is the printer...the other the scanner."

Right-click the printer for which you want to change drivers, and then click Properties.

tms_,Has this printer EVER worked properly on the computer it is now not working on? What is the operating system of the other computer that it does work properly on? truenorth

I am building a COMPUTER with a mix of new and used parts. I have a refurbished Asrock 775Dual-880Pro motherboard, a Used Pentium D cpu, and a new Radeon 9600 Pro Atlantis video card. The machine POWERS up fine though I don't get a beep from post. I can't get any signal to the monitor. I am hooked up to an older crt monitor that works fine on other computers and I tried my Dell flat screen lcd and got no signal there EITHER. The cpu came out of my old dell that crashed about a year ago. I built myself a new computer using just the drives from it so never did figure out what exactly died in it. Even if the cpu is a problem shouldn't I at least get the startup from the motherboard? It is 5 years since I took my A+ and have not kept up with the newer inovations. Need advice. Quote from: RAGAMUFFIN on February 05, 2010, 01:58:53 PM

...new Radeon 9600 Pro Atlantis video card....

Have 2 x 512 mb of DDR. Ultra brand. I have another set of PC2100 DDR I can try and also the set of DDR2 out of my old Dell. All of these are 512mb.

...don't think I can run both at the same time. Manuel didn't say...

I'm getting ready to order some new hardware and was wondering if there's anything certain I should be PREPARED for after it's all installed. I'm upgrading the CPU from a single core Celeron to a dual core E5400. I'm adding a GPU, since there currently isn't one in it, switching the PSU for a higher WATTAGE one, adding RAM, and adding a new HDD. I know that everything is compatible, it's mainly the post- installation that i'm worried about. I've built computers from scratch using all new parts, but i've never done an upgrade such as this. I've got the Vista installation disk in case i'll be needing that. Also, I think I want to use the old HDD along with the new one. Something else i've never set up. Any advice would be great. Thanks.I'm going to assume that you don't want to have to re-install Vista and all your apps ....along with hours and hours of tweaking to get things right...
That being said here's how i'd approach it.
(Keep in mind some of these suggestions are simply precautions)

1) Assemble all new and existing drivers and have them in one place...preferably on 1 cd but not neccessary.
2) Backup all browser and e-mail info...if using FireFox MozBack will do both FireFox and Thunderbird...great app.
3) If you do have an image app do a backup of your existing system and burn it to CD/DVD just in case.

----------------
4) Leave the new HDD out of the equation for now. We are going to work with the existing one. Replace the PSU.
5)Then replace the CPU...making sure to follow the install info provided and apply thermal compound properly.

Thermal Paste Guide

6) Leave the new RAM go for now as well...we want to boot to Vista with the least amount of changes.
7) Power up...chances are Vista will not hiccup with just the CPU being swapped. If it doesn't take the time to check all is well especially in Device Manager. If so we'll continue...if not:

Repair Install of Vista.

I suggest a full read and a printout for reference before starting...if this step was not needed with the CPU swap then we're almost done.
8.) Re-boot after checking all is OK with the CPU swap and then power down.
9) Install the vid card.
10) Boot up...Vista will detect the card and want to search the web for drivers for it...don't let it. Point the install to the CD that shipped with the card instead and install that way. Re-boot...and again check all is OK in Device Manger.
(At this point most are tempted to tweak the vid card...forget that part for now...you will have time.)

11) Add your new RAM...make sure to check the MBoard manual for slot configurations etc. Re-boot a few times and make sure all is well.

-----------------------------
When you are satisfied you have arrived here and before tweaking now the important step.

Power down. Hook up the new HDD as a slave drive. Boot to the HDD manuf. CD that shipped with the drive...if it didn't DLoad the Free utilities from the NEW HDD manuf. site. Follow the info to create a bootable CD.
Boot to the CD and open the Utility program...most autorun.
Choose the "clone" selection and "clone" the old drive to the new one. When it finishes power down...( DO NOT interrupt this process for anything.)
Remove the original drive completely and hook up the new drive as master with the correct jumper settings or SATA connector on the board.
Power up and you are now on your new setup.

Tweak to your hearts content...after tweaking burn another image of the new drive...then you can hook up the old drive as slave...format and use it for storage.

Congrats on your new Upgrade ! !Looks simple enough. Thanks for taking the time patio. I APPRECIATE it.Anytime blake...

Any questions you know where i am.Just out of curiosity, wouldn't it be easier/quicker to do a clean install? I don't have much installed on this machine so that wouldn't be a problem.Yes.

As i said i was assuming you didn't want to do this.
However see it as an opportunity...you can learn this procedure as you may NEED it down the road...
You will have the experience of the steps involved...
If you screw up...you can still do the clean install..... Very true. Good thinkin.Sundance said to Butch..."just keep thinkin...Butch...that's what yer' good at"...

One of my all time favorite movies.Ok, it seems that this PC doesn't have a DVD/CD burner. I don't know how I overlooked that. Is there another way to set up the slave drive and master drive without creating a bootable CD?A brand new DVD burner is 30 Bucks...it'll come in handy.

And in answer to the question...NO...the clone operation has to be run from a bootable CD.
It cannot be ran from the OS as you can't clone/image an OS that is in operation.Quote from: patio on February 04, 2010, 05:13:02 PM

A brand new DVD burner is 30 Bucks...it'll come in handy.

And in answer to the question...NO...the clone operation has to be run from a bootable CD.
It cannot be ran from the OS as you can't clone/image an OS that is in operation.

Hi,
I have just purchased an ip webcam for when I am away. HOWEVER, I am having a bit of a problem with it when I try to log into from another computer. I am finding that each day it has changed it's ip and I have to use the set up wizard to find out the new ip. I have been rebooting my wirless router quite often latley because of slow connections, so do you think this could be causing it to change the ip? I would prefer it to just one ip becuse i need to login when i am away. Thanks!!Crafty, you have been here long enough to know the rules.
The are kind'a lik this:

General inormation needed.
Who made your computer and when did you get it.
How did you recently modify it.
What operating system .
What Antiviral software.
Show any error message seen.
Explain why this matters to you.
Do you think software is bad.


All we get from your post is you bought a web cam and it works the way it was meant to.
And you don't know why it does not do what you thought it did.

A Web Cam, as a consumer device, is not a unattended remote video system. Unless the product was specifically sold for that purpose. Did the vendor say how you could use it?


As Geek says we need a lot more information, and yes rebooting your router is whats causing the IP address to change.

There are two kinds of IP addresses, dynamic and static. You need to change the cameras IP address to static. You will need to check your manuals to see if that needs to be done in the camera's software, or in the router. Once it has a static address rebooting the router will not make it change.

The next question is why do you need to reboot your router so often?Short answer...NO.
A webcam will NOT change your IP...
Something else is underfoot...Seriously guys, why would you need any info about my computer, it's the ip webcam that acts like the mini computer in this case? This isn't a question about my computer, It's about an ip webcam and they all act in a similar way!!

Now back to my problem. When I install the webcam the set up wizard gives me the ip for the webcam. I then maunually set the webcam to use this as it's static ip. Everything goes well from here and the camera works wireless. However, as soon as I unplug the webcam and take it to where it needs to be set up, I am not able to log in into it from another computer anymore. For some reson it nolonger recognises the ip.Seriously dude we don't need to know anything about your computer...
This will make it far more guesswork and innuendo along with non solutions so FORGIVE us for asking about details...

Good Luck.PATIO - I am not been funny here, but how would giving all those details help in this case? This has NOTHING to do with my computer. I can log on to an ip webcam from any computer in the world, so what computer shall i give details about? I have tried logging in from four different computers already, so should I give the details of all four computers?

I have given all the details i find to be relevent in this case.Quote

Everything goes well from here and the camera works wireless.

Well now you tell us it is wireless. That makes a big difference.

Why don't you tell us the make an model of your IP camera.
And Patio is right, the web cam and not control the IP used on the internet and it may not even control the IP on the LAN if your wireless access point does not allow it. You need to give more information about your wireless router.

When you router and/or modem resets itself it will assign new local IP for DHCP. And there are other details. There are knows issues with Windows 7 and XP .
If you want wireless and and internet access and not attended, you may be asking too much. Most common 802.11 devices can not be certified for high security use.

Hi. I'm having some trouble with my new PC. It includes 7.1 surround sound, but I only ever use 2.0 headphones. When playing some Media Files, no words can be HEARD. I found a solution to this with PowerDVD, telling it to play everything in 2.0, but I use other Media Applications. I was wondering if there is a way to have my computer play 2.0 sound. The only detail I can find on my sound controlers are: ATI High Definition Audio Device and VIA High Definition Audio.
Helpful. Not.

ALSO. I have a large amount of 2.0 or 2.1 speaker sets lying around. Could I use these to configure a 5.1 or 7.1 sound system?

Thanks in advance
James If you have Vista, try this:

Right click on your desktop and click on "Personalize".

Select "Sounds", and at the top of the window there will be a few tabs.

Select Playback, right click on your speakers, and select "Configure Speakers".

There it should give you the option of Stereo, 5.1, and 7.1.

Select Stereo for 2 speakers, or 5.1/7.1 for 5 or 7 speaker setups.

If you have XP, the process should still be the same, or very similar.I tried that, but no joy. I am running windows 7, if that helps. Ok. Are your speakers plugged into a sound card, or are they pluged into the onboard audio jack?

If they're plugged into a sound card, then you will NEED to go into those settings and do the same thing.

You might see if there are any updates for your audio drivers too.As far as I'm aware, it plugs directly into the motherboard. I'm not sure though, as I have only recently got this PC, and wish to avoid voiding my warrenty by opening, and no-doubt for me (I'm really Clumsy) SCUFFING or damaging my case. The audio connectors are on the same board as the PS/2 and USB sockets etc. though. I'll look up my motherboard drivers.

JamesVIA High Definition Audio. <<<< Onboard Audio, built into the motherboard, not removable.

When you installed the drivers, you will have also installed VIA HD Audio Deck. This will be down in the bottom right corner as a tray icon.

Double click it, or find it in the all programs menu, or in control panel.

Then on one of the tabs ( I forget which one sorry as I have a PCI-e sound card now and don't use my VIA onboard anymore ) I think it is speakers, and on the side, there will be 2, 4, 6 and 8 speakers listed, select 2, and your audio should then be okay after that.Why did you switch? Was there anything CERTAIN you didn't like about the VIA onboard HD audio, or did you just need something that your MoBo didn't have, output wise?Sorry about not replying for ages. I've been busy at school. I didn't install the drivers, they were pre-installed. Should I search for VIA HD Audio Deck seperatly? I'm a 64bit tho...Quote from: James1431997 on February 05, 2010, 12:44:10 PM

Sorry about not replying for ages. I've been busy at school. I didn't install the drivers, they were pre-installed. Should I search for VIA HD Audio Deck seperatly? I'm a 64bit tho...

Alright, here's the problem my MSI P6N Diamond is only a few years old. However, the modern Core 2 Duo's and Core 2 Quad's are NOT supported by it, even though it boasted quad core support. And the CPU's that are supported have been cut out of stock because they are a bit dated like the board, and the standing state of the economy proves them to be less profitable to keep hardware like that in stock.

So, does anyone know of any workaround for this or am I going to have to replace my motherboard? If that's the case I'll just sell this whole computer sans the drives and build me another. I don't like the tower, I got this thing in a trade, and I'd have to replace the power supply, CPU, GPU, possibly the RAM, and definitely replace the hard drive to play any modern games worth a crap. The GPU is a big bottleneck but if I replace it my overclocked E4500 would then become the bottleneck. So I'm in a bit of a bind here because when I get a job here soon I won't be pulling that much cash and I'd really rather not have to shell out for a new rig. I'm hoping on working on getting my license this summer so money will be going to a car (an old one, I hate new cars, I can't work on 'em and theres too much electronic crap to go wrong).

So if anyone has any workarounds, tell me, this is driving me nuts, my board isn't that old but its already outdated. I've looked around to see if places sell the older CPU's that would work but all of 'em want upwards of $150 for a decent CPU that isn't as good as the newer ones that this thing DOESN'T support. God I swear computers are advancing so FAST there tripping over there own feet.

The main concern I have about upgrading now is that its JUST in the middle of all this new stuff coming out like I7's and there JUST barely out of my price range. And I know just like the last few times I've built systems if I build one now I'll be stuck in the same rut I'm in now. I think, if anything, I'll wind up getting another budget GPU that'll be ten times better than this one and get the job done but I was hoping to be able to get another CPU aswell. Hold off until the newer stuff is priced down enough to be affordable. Quote

the modern Core 2 Duo's and Core 2 Quad's are NOT supported by it, even though it boasted quad core support.

And the CPU's that are supported have been cut out of stock

Hi, I have a gaming laptop but it has been running slower than usual lately. I know it's not a virus because I just recently re-installed the os and I have anti-virus and firewall installed before ACCESSING the internet. I don't know exactly what's wrong with the computer but I read an article online that said I should be cleaning it yearly to prevent dust build up in my heatsink. A particular example of the differences in preformance between my computer when I just got it and my computer at present is the inability to play games at 1270X840, instead I have to lower the screen resolution to around 1024X720(not sure if the measurements are RIGHT on, but their close to those numbers). Also, I notice when my computer is on, a large amount of heat (kind of like a radiator) comes from the vent.
Pc specs:
4gb ram
intel dual core 2ghz proccesor
nvidia geforce 7000

Overheating, you may need to find a program to keep the fan running properly, Or, if it is a serious case, the fan may be jammed or broken, in which you may need a new oneDo you have the (Free-ware) program:"CPUID"?
If you run this you can see if all is right (If the hardware is PROGRAMED ALLRIGHT)...
But there are many programs to test your computer hard\soft-ware...
I ALLWAYS clean my computer once every 5-6 months...The fan pulls a lot of "dirty" air into your computer,this tends to build up in\near your vent-holes....
Clean with a anti-static brush...And if you don`t know what you are doing bring it to a good computer-store....

GOOD LUCK:Eric....................

[SAVING space, attachment deleted by admin]

Hi peeps, haven't been here lately, but i would like to ask a hardware question.
I have a IBM Think Centre desktop pc with a DVD re-writer already installed, but i wanted to know if it was possible to also add a CD re-writer because i need both installed but only have ONE recess?
At the MOMENT, i am having to open up the CASE to replace the DVD re-writer with a CD re-writer?
Please can anyone advise me with this problem?

Many THANKS

ChikkyIf you have no spare DRIVE slots, don't do it. The DVD-rewriter will burn CD's, too.Many thanks for that, Commando i did wonder if i could or not.

So I want to buy/repair my LCD Monitor,I've been having this problem for about a year or so. My Laptop Monitor has this problem where you need to put pressure on the left corner egde of the monitor with my hand or sometimes put paper inside to be able to see anything at all. I am wondering if its LCD Monitor? or LCD SCREEN blacklight inverter?


Toshiba Link:

http://www.csd.toshiba.com/cgi-bin/tais/support/jsp/modelContent.jsp?ct=SB&os=&category=&moid=1209117&rpn=PSM50U&modelFilter=&selCategory=3&selFamily=1073768663


Picture Laptop:
http://www4.shopping.com/xPO-Toshiba_Satellite_Notebook_with_Intel_Centrino_Mobile_Technology_Smart_Indigo_M55_S3512If the laptop is over 3 years old it's not worth fixing...Quote from: patio on February 05, 2010, 06:06:28 PM

If the laptop is over 3 years old it's not worth fixing...

If the laptop is over 3 years old it's not worth fixing...

That's for sure! Like cell phones, laptops are disposable electronic devices, and rarely worth repairing, unless it's the hard drive.

Some of those can be relatively inexpensive to replace...but others will make it a judgement call.
You could get a shop estimate to determine which component has failed.

Please don't forget to thank me if i helped you!

Hi,

Probably temp internet files and a fragmented hard drive that are causing your computer to run slowly. Go here http://www.filehippo.com/download_ccleaner and download Ccleaner to get rid of temp files. Then go here http://download.cnet.com/Smart-Defrag/3000-2094_4-10759533.html and download Smart defrag and run that on deep optimize. This should make it run much better.


Please don't forget to thank me if i helped you!

Okay!. First I would like to mention how embarrassing this for me. I used to be the head of the IT section only 2 years ago.
So .. The problem is .. I have a customized desktop PC – basically for gaming and internet – with the following specs:
Motherboard: Asus P5DL2-X/1333
Processor: Intel Pentium D 3.20GHz
Memory: 2GB DDR2
Video Card: Gigabyte Nvidia GeForce 9400 GT 512MB
OS: Win XP Pro SP3
And I can’t have fun gaming on it!
Other than the OVERHEATING problem, most of the games I’m downloading are running REALLY really slow .. I’ve removed a lot of side-programs and start-up applications – stayed only with the basics – and still .. bad gaming experience .. Plus, all flash-based websites are running slow too. Like sometimes I have to keep moving the mouse or the video will stop while the audio is running on sites like youtube. Flash games like FarmVille on facebook are nightmares. I used firefox, IE, google chrome. It’s all the same .. changed the V.Card and it’s the same.
on the other HAND .. one the my friend’s computers have a lower specs but with Core 2 Duo processor and it’s running fine
I can only change my processor to Core 2 Duo 2.4GHz .. does it worth it??
You should tackle your overheating issues 1st...
Also the flash game response could be your connection...unless their on the machine itself.Quote from: patio on March 22, 2010, 09:39:48 AM

You should tackle your overheating issues 1st...
Also the flash game response could be your connection...unless their on the machine itself.

Something is slowing that machine down...

DLoad and run MemTest...let it run at least 2 hours...any errors at all and you have a bad stik of RAM

DLoad and run the HDD diagnostics from your HDD manuf. site.

Swap another borrowed vid card in there to see if anything changes...
I doubt moving from a 3.2 D to a 2.4 Duo would be much of an improvement ...but i'll need to research that...

my FRIEND has a laptop which is showing a slight problem.

he turns on the laptop and blue lines appear and then the screen turns white.
when you power on the system, that would only be the time the system works ALREADY okay [OS BOOTS up]

it is not a big problem that it happens because it does work fine afterwards anyway but it is STILL better if we could solve this out.

the laptop was just bought last year and it had not fallen or something.

i hope you could help on this. THANKS.

My computer:

Intel Pentium 4 CPU 3.2oGHz, 2.0 GB RAM, Radeon 9200 series graph card, MS Windows XP Professional SP3.

I run:

Microsoft Security Essentials up to date and runs each NIGHT
Online Armor firewall runs and no programs blocked
Spybot search and destroy with tea timer up to date and nothing found
Secunia has all programs up to date

My Printer is a cannon multi pass F30

I have been posting in the virus and malware FORM. Super Dave and Evil Fantasy have instructed me in getting my computer so that it is not infected any more. Everything seems to be working well except for one thing now.

I can not print ANYTHING. When I try to print a box pops up and says that the printer is not recognized. It tells me to GO to the service applet and start MPService. This program is supposed to automatically start up when booted, but each time it doesn't. I go into the service applet as instructed and start the MPService, and then I right click on the status monitor to reconnect the printer and still the box pops up and says the printer is not recognized and to start the MPService and right click again.

I have tried to restart the MPService many times
I have logged off many times and tried everything again many times
I have restarted the computer many times and tried to do everything over again.

This has been going on off and on for awhile. Last night it was doing it, but finally after restarting the computer it printed, but when I went to use it this morning it says there is no printer connected. I have even disconnected the printer from the computer and reconnected it and restarted it.

Please help as I need to use my printer.

Thank You in Advance for any help that you can provide,
SeanDownload the LATEST Canon MP software and reinstall.
http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&tabact=SupportDetailTabAct&fcategoryid=238&modelid=6630#DownloadDetailActThank You,
It seems to be working now.

I have this these problem with the CMOS BATTERY, every while my computer have no display although everything is WORKING fine fans and all but there's no display booting or beeps.

so I just disconnect the cmos battery and put it again and the computer goes back to work
I don't really understand what is the problem exactly ?
should I replace this battery or change the BIOS settings or what ? Yes.
Part # CR2032...about 3 Bucks.Your battery is almost certainly bad. Do you REMEMBER the last time it was CHANGED? FWIW, it's super cheap to replace,ANYHOW. Give it a shot and see what happens.Who's feeding the parrots again ? ?

Hello Ive been in limbo Ive read most topics in almost every forum here I still hav'nt found out how to run dual OS on one pc reading specs on others so called pc specs Ive seen some specs with duall OS on them I built this pc from new and used parts But w/win7 home premium I cannot get drivers for older digital camcorder to put my videos on the hdd or in any other program I will have to buy a cable to go from IDE to sata to hook up another old hard drive w/win ME on it I KNOW the HDD 80 GB wd 7200 w/win me works I have installed in an old compaq now and it came out of an old gateway I managed to retreive all old info from it and now would like to install it in the sbcc that Ive only had running for a few weeks

asus m4n78pro, SLI ready,AMDphenomx4 9850 quad cooler master gemini ii cpu/board coolerOCZ ddr2 4096 {2x2048mb [emailprotected] ] 8gbrammmsi dvd/rw w/lightscribewd 500gbcaviar blue HDD7200rpm,ultra lsp650pro PSU,used floppy ,used dvd reader used st.francis case mid tower w/ a few custom modifications to it two used psu fans for extra cooling powered by the old psu by jumper to run them

How do I go about programming the pc to start with one OS or the other so I can use win ME to be able to use the old camcorder and record videos to it and then transfer files to the new OS win7 home premium

whres the GENIE when U need her I probably should have put this in OS and others No brains... Well, that might be a problem. Sigh, another "scarecrow"...

Here's some background info: http://www.multibooters.co.uk/index.html.dahlarbear
thanks but that link was for vista and every time I try vista or XP OS/s with what Ive tried its failed That link is for all Windows operating systems (including Windows 7). The navigation links were on left hand side of web page. For example: http://www.multibooters.co.uk/articles/windows_seven.html. That link explains how MICROSOFT handles multi-booting and why it works. If you use the Microsoft method, the expectation is you would reinstall the operating systems in the correct order. Oldest one first. (Actually, I don't know if Microsoft supports multi-booting Windows 7 with Windows ME - you'd have to look that up.)

I believe they also mention alternative third party software which is probably a better alternative, especially if you don't want to reinstall the operating system.

It sounds like you already have Windows 7 and Windows ME installed on two separate hard drives and now you wish to selectively boot one or the other. Some computers (brand names) permit you to use a designated at startup to display a boot device selection menu. If both hard drives are available to you from this method, this would not require any changes; thus would be simplest method. Or perhaps, when needed, you could enter CMOS setup at system startup to specify hard drive boot order within system BIOS.

You may be able to pick relevant pieces from this link Install Windows 98/Me on Windows 7 computer (Win7 installed first).Allow me to but in with thke super simple answer.
Buy another disk drive . Maybe a cheap refurbished thing. Gusta as long as it works. Look in the BIOS. There has to be some WAY yuou can change the boot order. Almost every desktop PC BIOS has some way to let you boot from the second drive. And the OS will think it is drive C: even though it is the second drive.
Put you old OS on the smaller drive, The Windows 7 on the Big one.
NOTE. Do not have the second drive in place awhile installing Windows 7. Connect the other drive later.

Works for me.Quote from: alltools nobrains on February 05, 2010, 09:02:00 PM

thanks but that link was for vista and every time I try vista or XP OS/s with what Ive tried its failed

the part about smarter PLEASE look at my handle the part about NOBRAINS should tell you alot.

About a week ago, ONE of my HARD drives began acting up, so I removed it, and got a new one, did a fresh OS install, and once I verified everything was working, I PLUGGED in my damaged DRIVE to copy some data off of it. Everything worked fine, I got most of my data off the drive, and shut down the computer for the night.

The next day, my system wouldn't start up at all. After pressing the power button nothing happened. No post, no fans spinning up, nothing.

I suspected that something happened to the PSU (Antec smart power 450w) so I removed it from the system and shorted the green and black pins. The fans did not spin up, and no voltage on the motherboard connector pins.

So I got a new PSU (Corsair TX 750), and now the system starts up, but then shuts down after a minute or two. I checked the cpu/motherboard temp in the bios and they were around 47 degrees. I also touched the side of the cpu heat sink and its warm, but not hot. No burning smells or smoke.

I've tried the following: (pretty much in this order)
- reseat all the power plugs
- reseat the ram (4 sticks total)
- unplugged the case fan
- removed 2 sticks of ram
- removed the other 2 sticks of ram, and put the other 2 back in
- unplugged all the hard drives
- unplugged the cd drive
- swapped out the video card
- removed the video card completely
- removed the motherboard battery
- changed the wall outlet the system was plugged into
- removed all usb and front panel (except the power switch) headers from the motherboard

Right now, I only have the motherboard, cpu, and ram connected to the psu. Everything else has been removed from the system and it still shuts down after a minute or so.

I tried shorting the green and black pins on the new psu, and it seems to work ok. I also checked the voltages on the motherboard connector and they seem ok. I also left it "on" like this for more than a few minutes, and it did not automatically shutdown by itself.


Is it possible the motherboard is bad? and somehow killed my first psu?
Could it be some temp sensor going AWRY and shutting down the system automatically?


I'm pretty much hopelessly stuck at this point


System specs:
Core 2 Duo E6300
Asus P5B mobo
3GB RAM ( 2x512MB Muskin, 2x1GB Corsair )
3x SATA HDDs
BFG Geforce 260 GTX Video card
Old PSU that died: Antec SmartPower 450w
New PSU: Corsair TX 750w
Remove the MBoard from the case...
Connect only the following:
PSU
CPU/Fan
Mouse
Keyboard
Monitor
Vid card if needed
1 stick of RAM

The MBoard should be on a rubber mat or piece of cardboard.
See if it Posts this way...

Can anyone tell me how both my CD and DVD disk drives can suddenly vanish and not be recognized by my computer?? Yesterday I played a DVD and while I recall shutting down the Cyberlink PowerDVD 6 player improperly when finished I can't see how that would have caused the DVD disk drive to disappear from my system. Today none of my DVDs would play and my DVD disk drive (E:) is no longer listed in My Computer with my Hard Disk Drives. I've also lost my CD-ROM disk drive! The only disk drive listed is Local Disk (C:) and a 3 1/2 floppy drive (A:) that I RARELY use. If anyone has any advice on how to restore my disk drives, especially the DVD disk drive, please let me know. I am stunned. I run Windows XP Pro SP3 and have an Intel Pentium 3 computer with 27 gb hard drive, 384 mb system RAM, video card ATI RADEON 7200 w/64mb RAM, Sound Blaster audio, DVD-ROM, CD burner, 10/100 network card, and US Robotics v90 56k modem. Thanks. Any help will be much appreciated.

jandalSame thing in safe mode?

Have you tried doing a system restore yet?See:
a. Your CD drive or DVD drive is missing or is not recognized by Windows or other programs
b. CD drive or DVD drive is missing in Windows XP or Vista
c. Deleted dvd/cd rom driveYes, JJ3000, I did a System Restore yesterday and it actually seemed to work just great. Both missing disk drives reappeared in the My Computer's list of Devices With Removable Storage alongside my (A:) 3 1/2 floppy drive. I thought the problem was fixed until this morning when I turned my computer back on and found that I was back to square one again with both disk drives missing as if by magic!! Is there any way I can save a specific restore point in System Restore or must I face the drudgery of having to use System Restore every single time I turn on my computer and set yet ANOTHER restore point? Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks.

jandal 1. System Restore. Using system restore to "revert" the operating system (primarily the "registry") to a previous state whenever you wish CD/DVD drive access is not a practical solution.

2. Device Management. Use this utility to verify operating system found the device and what "status" it reports for the device.

To access the "Device Manager" window: Start -> Run -> type "devmgmt.msc" without quotes -> hit key or select OK button.

The window should open in "View - Devices by type" view. If not, use "View" pull-down menu from top menu bar to change display.

a. DVD/CD-ROM drives. If this category exists, expand it (double-click it) to display your devices. Right-click one of your CD/DVD drives and select "Properties". Select "General" tab.

What does the "Device status" subsection say?

b. If the DVD/CD-ROM drives category does not exist:
(1) Are there any "yellow" or "red" flags on the display?
(2) Is there an "Unknown" or "Other" category on the display?

Quote from: dahlarbear on February 23, 2010, 03:52:44 AM

See:
a. Your CD drive or DVD drive is missing or is not recognized by Windows or other programs
b. CD drive or DVD drive is missing in Windows XP or Vista
c. Deleted dvd/cd rom drive

You don't need the power on to do this.

Same thing in safe mode?

Have you tried doing a system restore yet?

Yes, JJ3000, I did a System Restore yesterday and it actually seemed to work just great.

Dahlarbear:
I tried everything you suggested and System Restore is the only thing that works...

I used Device Manager when this trouble first began but I checked it again. There is only one disk drive listed and that is WDC WD273BA, which I assume is Local Disk (C:). I guess this means my operating system can't detect any CD-ROM/DVD drives.

I did try your microsoft link but their support is limited and doesn't really seem to help in my particular case.

Hi:

1st: I've Googled
2nd: I've searched this fine forum & Gateway's (free) support
3rd: I'm not getting anywhere beneficial

I have a gateway mt3418 laptop that has 2 memory slots (not dual channel) and is supposed 2 be able to use 2x1gb sticks. It boots fine with 1 stick of basically any size, but won't boot if you add the second stick. This happens even with a brand new matched kit from Crucial where both modules are tested GOOD (memtest 86 passed by both, boots fine with either stick by itself, etc) Does anyone know of a possible BIOS update or similar, or is the 2nd ram slot bad? I sincerely hope not, as this will be the 2nd time a Gateway product failed to meet it's published performance for me. TIA, EVERYONE ;-)

BTW: This behavior is pre-OS. I have the original factory Vista install w/all updates and am dual--booting Ubuntu 9.10 for months now, so this is an issue with harware or BIOS, presumably :-(, as every thing is OK with just 1 stick of RAM.Quote from: substrate001 on March 22, 2010, 06:31:59 PM

...It boots fine with 1 stick of basically any size, but won't boot if you add the second stick...

I went from Nvidia 9600 to Ati Radeon HD R5770 because I needed upgrade to play new games.Now here is the problem can not play older games such as United Offensive. I can play for a bit and then it freezes.So I returned my computer back to the proffessionals who installed the new card (and who had built my computer so they know what is compatable).It was returned with a new motherboard Asus M4A785-M witch they said i now needed hmmm ok but I still can not play my old games.And yes all the drivers are installed.Please help I have a match coming up and i really don't WANT to have to play on my husbands computer.I run on Windows xp home edition service pack 3, Amd ATHLON 64x2dual core Processor 6000+mmx 3D now (2CPUs)3.1 ghz,2048mb Ram,Sound Blaster X-FI, Harddrive 500gb.The most common problems with a PC freeze are> ram> registry> other programs running>virus.Maltamed it only freezes when I play my older games everything else is fine.No there is no virus all new parts and it was just reformated and cleaned up.And no its not my harddrive because that is new as well put in three weeks ago because my other one had a smartcard defect, I have enough Ram.Any other answers out there would be appreciative.Post the game requirements and maybe we can find a solution...Assuming United Offensive is the Call of Duty game.

Quote

Call of Duty: United Offensive Minimum System Requirements
Full Version of original Call of Duty
3D hardware accelerator card required - 100% DirectX 9.0c compatible 32MB hardware T&L-capable video card and the latest drivers*
English version of Microsoft Windows 98/ME/2000/XP
Pentium III 800MHz or Athlon 800MHz processor or higher
128MB RAM (256MB Recommended)
8x speed CD-ROM drive (1200KB/sec sustained transfer rate) and latest drivers
1150MB of uncompressed free hard disk space (plus 400MB for Windows 98/ME swap file, 600MB for Windows 2000/XP swap file)
100% DirectX 9.0c compatible 16-bit sound card and latest drivers
100% Windows 98/ME/2000/XP compatible mouse, keyboard and latest drivers
DirectX 9.0c (included)

Multi-player Requirements
Internet (TCP/IP) and LAN (TCP/IP) play supported
Internet play requires 56kbps (or faster) modem and latest drivers
LAN play requires network interface card and latest drivers

Important Notice: *Some 3D accelerator cards with the chipset LISTED here may not be compatible with the 3D acceleration features UTILIZED by Call of Duty United Offensive. Please refer to your hardware manufacturer for 100% DirectX 9.0c compatibility.

Supported Chipsets
All ATI Radeon cards
All nVidia GeForce cards
Matrox Parhelia

Interplay recently re-released Planescape: Torment on one dvd. As soon as I heard of this I ordered a copy and here it is! The problem, however, is that when I attempt to play it on my dvd drive, it does not read. I know it is not the dvd because it will play on other dvd drives. Also, my dvd drive has played every single dvd I've ever put in it, inlcuding dvd pc games like bioshock. I have media playing software like VLC, Winamp, and Nero. I use Windows XP fully updated, SP3. My dvd drive is a NEC 3550A and it is updated to its latest firmware version. I suspect I am missing software, because I built my PC, however I have no clue as to what software I would need for recognizing pc dvd games.

Any ideas?First step is to try another DVD player.
Quote

I know it is not the dvd because it will play on other dvd drives.

Right, it plays on dvd drives on other PCs. If it played on another dvd drive on my PC, there wouldn't be a problem.

I know it is not the dvd because it will play on other dvd drives. Also, my dvd drive has played every single dvd I've ever put in it, inlcuding dvd pc games like bioshock.

Error of logic: My drive has always worked OK, therefore it will always work OK. You ignore the possibility that the drive is failing or deteriorating in some way, e.g. the read laser is declining in output and the disk in question is the first one which is sub optimal enough.

However I still do not understand why a deteriorating drive would not just stop reading dvds altogether, instead of only reading some dvds.

my SISTER played with my laptop and don't know what she pressed but this is what happens after...s60eth5ng 5s wr6ng w5th 0y c60*4ter ...(something is wrong with my computer)..the letter pressed doesn't match but if I pressed the FN KEY..everything is good..what happened?please help..how do i fix this..it's hard to type while pressing the Fn key.. She turned on the number pad function on the keyboard. Since laptops don't have a number pad LIKE a desktop keyboard, there is a way to turn regular letter keys into a number pad. Every laptop is a little different, but probably if you USE the Fn key with a function key (F1-F10, or whatever) you can turn it back to normal. One of the F keys should be marked.Fn+f11 is the De-Facto Standard.

Hello,

hope you can HELP me with this problem. The Neo laptop freeze adter displaying the Neo LOGO on screen. i can not press the F2 to go to BIOS setting. What COULD be the problem of this? Is this a hardware ISSUE?

Ok so my computer was using 2 rams and after some time i update my motherboard bios or something like that and later some DAYS it started to work weird like i turned it off and the next day it would just turn on and off after i took one of the rams out it WORKED fine and it might be from avast to because i did a virus scan before the ram problems and i had 2 blue screens of death so what is the issue with my ram or the motherboard.
plus i use to RUN 4 rams but it would keep restarting my computer after like 1-2 hours of using it so i went back to 2 and now i have another problem i have alot of bad luck with computers so please help me because i am taking it to a person to CHECK it out tomorrow if you could please give me some advice on how to fix these plz help.
PS this is a 3 month old computer

system specs
CPU Intel® Core™ i5 Processor Motherboard Intel® Desktop Board DP55KGMemory X2 Corsair CMX4GX3M2A1600C9 XMS3 4 GB
Graphics Card XFX HD-575X-ZNFC Radeon HD 5750 1GB
Hard Drive Western Digital 500 GB Power Supply ENERMAX INFINITI EIN720AWT 720W windows 7 64bit

NOW it cant run on one stick keeps turning on and off Is that RAM on iNtel's Supported Vendoe LIST for that MBoard ? ?
Did your computer started giving you problem only after you updated your BIOS.Or did the Problem exist from the beginning.i think it was after the bios updateAt 3 months old it should still be under warranty.....i'd be taking advantage of that.
Not sure why a BIOS flash on a brand new machine...okYou have the solution.After the update the problem arose.

Go and make use of that warranty period. But make sure you dont mention about the Bios Update.

I have no clue why this happened.. Its a fairly new computer. I think it may be a overheating issue, but the fans are WORKING properly. There is no dust in the computer, but i took out the fans and cleaned behind them anyway..

I did a Core temperature check and it reads 106 degrees F, which i understand it high, but that temperature never changes.. I opened the side and blasted it with a fan, but the temp remained at 106, which has me confused..

When i turn it on after having it sit for a while it will remain on for 10 minutes or so, but immediately after trying to restart once it turns off it only stays on for a minute or so..

I still think its a heating issue, but why isnt the temperature changing from 106 even if i have a fan right on it?

Please help.Quote from: ogclip on February 06, 2010, 06:31:43 PM

...I did a Core temperature check and it reads 106 degrees F, which i understand it high, but that temperature never changes...

It's defective from the factory. Let them deal with it.

but then we won't get to show our vast troubleshooting skills

Hi Guys
A couple of months ago I got a new Hard-drive and Motherboard, which has been working fine up until now. But for the last 3 days, I've notice a CLICKING noise, and it sounds like its coming from the Hard-drive. The noise sounds very, very similar to this video clip which I came across online: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtnT5VAsBZk . Does anyone know what this could be ?
Some of my specs are:

PROCESSOR: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-4160 CPU @ 3.60GHz 3.60 GHz
RAM: 4.00 GB
System Type: 64-bit Operating System
Is this the same PC that had random restart issues ? ?
Sounds like the Clik of Death to me...

The more you try and use it the further you get from any hope of saving data...replace the HDD.Its not the same pc that was restarting. Its a new HDD; new Motherboard; new RAM; CD Rom etc. Only the Power Supply is the same, which itself is just over a year old. But I got the Hard-Drive and stuff in January. Why would it be failing ALREADY ?Find out the Manuf. and DLoad and run the Free diagnostics on it from the HDD. manuf. site...
You'll know soon enough.
Follow the guide for creating a bootable CD...Could you possibly explain to me exactly how to do that ? Sorry to ask you that, but I'm not too clued-up with these kinds of things. In short, I'm PRETTY dumb in this area of expertise.Okay, so I replaced the Hard Drive that was clicking earlier this month. Now I've got a new terabyte. Its been working fine, but a few minutes ago it gave me a Blue screen and then restarted. This is exactly the issue I had with my older PC. I'm soooo frustrated now. So I downloaded bluescreenview and did a scan as someone on this site once advised me to do with my older PC. The results were as follows:

==================================================
Dump File : 032715-17518-01.dmp
Crash Time : 2015/03/27 04:23:44 AM
Bug Check String :
Bug Check Code : 0x00000119
Parameter 1 : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 2 : 00000000`00000a37
Parameter 3 : 00000000`00000a39
Parameter 4 : 00000000`00000a38
Caused By Driver : watchdog.sys
Caused By Address : watchdog.sys+122f
File Description :
Product NAME :
Company :
File Version :
Processor : x64
Crash Address : ntoskrnl.exe+74ec0
Stack Address 1 :
Stack Address 2 :
Stack Address 3 :
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\032715-17518-01.dmp
Processors Count : 4
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7601
Dump File Size : 276392
Dump File Time : 2015/03/27 04:24:27 AM
==================================================


Can anyone interpret this for me ?Does this PC have AVG installed ? ?I don't have AVG. I have Comodo.Then do a file search for watchdog.exe and see which app it's associated with...my info says it's an AVG related file.Okay, I didn't find anything for watchdog.exe, but I found two files of the same size named "watchdog.sys". I think its some kind of Driver. The two file locations are: "C:\Windows\System32\drivers" and "C:\Windows\winsxs\amd64_microsoft-windows-watchdog_31bf3856ad364e35_6.1.7600.16385_none_bc5dd9e3c32d1858".Try re-installing your vid drivers...re-boot afterwords...

Hey guys, so I just managed to update my Rig to Windows 8.1 by doing a clean install. And when I attempted to install drivers for my ASUS PCE-AC66 Wireless Card, Windows Update didn't FIND any drivers for it. So I used DriverPackSolution 14 to download drivers and it downloaded and INSTALLED some BroadCom drivers for the Wireless Card. Short story, the BroadCom drivers didnt exactly work as it constatly dropped my wireless connection as soon as it connected to it. So I finally went to the ASUS Website and tried to MANUALLY download the drivers:

https://www.asus.com/support/FAQ/1006712/

https://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20131119233840522&board_id=11&model=PCE-AC66&page=1&SLanguage=en-us

https://rog.asus.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-34025.html

To my surprise they did not have Windows 8.1 Drivers for PCE-AC66...only Win 7 and Win 8. I tried using the Win 8.1 drivers for the PCE-AC68 (the newest version of the product) and that just made my card freeze up everytime I tried to use it. So I did some research on Google and I found out that I could use a older Win 8 (not the latest Win 8 drivers, because apparently they had poor performance) and Win7 drivers and it would still work.

So Im using an older set of Win8 drivers and it seem to be working fin because it's too late for me to RMA the wireless card, but concern is will Asus eventually roll out Win 8.1 drivers for this card? And shoudl I be concered about this card's support for Windows 10, when it releases? Everyone's thoughts?

***Just realized I should have posted this in the "drivers" sub-thread, I apologize for the mistake!The differences between Vista, 7, 8, 8.1, and 10 in terms of the WDDM is unlikely to matter. The framework established with Vista onwards means all Drivers should be forward compatible (at least up to win 10). Even if you had to use a Vista Network driver(for example) you would not be "crippled" in any way.

It's likely ASUS did not RELEASE a new set of drivers because that new version would be effectively identical to the previous version.For what it's worth.
My experience with Windows 8.1 was very pleasant when it came to the wireless adapters I had on hand. Windows 8.1 found a suitable driver and it worked.

I recall that at the time I did have an Ethernet connection, so the Windows 8.1 was able to search for a driver.

IMHO you should RMA that adapter back to the MAKER or vendor. You just might have got a bad one.
Thanks BCProgrammer for teh explanation, that puts my mind at ease!

Quote from: Geek-9pm on March 25, 2015, 04:05:42 PM

.
IMHO you should RMA that adapter back to the maker or vendor. You just might have got a bad one.

how do i tell if i have AGP SLOT or PCI???i just bought a geforce 7600 PCI graphics card and it dosent fit into any of the slots ?Post your computer or motherboard make/model. If you don't know, run Belarc Advisor (free at www.belarc.com)There are No Geforce 7's that Are PCI

What you have there is a PCI-EXPRESS Card, Always Do Research Before you Buy Hardware

And do as GX1_Man Said, and we may beable to help you inbuying a mother Board that Will house your New GFX card, and Your Existing CPU and RamWoh, he bought a 150$ card and he cant use it..

I dont think theres much hope. Any motherboard with AGP has a socket 478 CPU, wich is what he has. And he wont find a motherboard with PCI-E and socket 478.

Best chances are to GO back to the store and tell them to give u THE SAME card for AGP, they PROBABLY will since the card dosent actually fit ur motherboard.Track he Never Said wat kinda CPU he had, there is a Good Chance he can Get a PCI-E Mother Board for His CPU

and there is only one Geforce 7 thats AGP and that the 7800, and it costs like $500Quote

Track he Never Said wat kinda CPU he had, there is a Good Chance he can Get a PCI-E Mother Board for His CPU

and there is only one Geforce 7 thats AGP and that the 7800, and it costs like $500

Cheers squirrel, only prob is would that fit in my tower on Dell pc? Otherwise i don`t have adapter at the mo.:-(if it's from a similar PC, it should. most of the HDs i've seen are pretty much the same size.http://www.seagate.com/support/disc/specs/ata/st94019a.html

This look to be your Hard Drive, and its a Segate, looks to me like its one of the Standard production line, there are manual's on that Site

You might want to check the Spec's against any new one you are going to buy

i would try to buy a replacement Seagate of the Same Model, that way you will eliminate any possible problemsWhy don't you just test the hard drive first with the Seatest utility if it is a Seagate drive???What Utility? How do i do this?http://www.seagate.com/support/seatools/

You can get it on this page, one click away for the Page i reefed you to EarlierThanks Panboy, but if i can`t get online let alone get an OS up and running on the laptop how can i run the prog. I can`t save it to disk as its live!

ThanksThese posts have really rambled on. The short approach is to make sure the hard drive is jumpered correctly and that it is seen in the BIOS. If not, that has to be dealt with.

Then BOOT with a Windows CD, delete ALL partitions, create one, format it and try to install.

If that doesn't work post the exact problem. It may well be that the hard drive is KAPUT. (That was the reason you were given the machine initially, yes?)

I think we are making this harder than it has to be unless I missed something.Whats does, A device enclosed in Parenthesis has been disabled in the corresponding TYPE menu , mean?? How do i rid this MESSAGE in the bios boot device priorority sectioN??whne i check them all they are all on.The Prgram on the Segate site Can be burnt to a Disk, and then Booted off, thats how that works

But im think from what you have Said in this post ant the other , your disk is Broken, you just need to buy a new one.Panboy, i think you are right.
Many thanks to everyone who has helped with lots of info, apologise for wasting your time.I wouldn't Be here if i didn't want to waste Time! err wait i mean Help the Needy err yea thats it ^.^

Its all good its what i like to Do

That SEEMS the BEST and QUICKEST APPROACH.

Whenever I click START/TURN OFF THE COMPUTER/TURN OFF, windows shuts down, but the system itself does not power down. It sounds like it’s powering down, then spontaneously restarts. The only way to turn it off is to hold the power button down. We had this issue once before when we initially built the computer. It seemed to correct itself when we reformatted the drive and reinstalled XP and all drivers. Not so lucky this time. We reinstalled XP without installing any other applications or devices in order to eliminate conflicts. FYI, we also disabled the "AUTO RESTART ON ERRORS" option, and this did not change a thing. There are never any errors in the error log.

My custom system:
Motherboard: ECS PT-800CD-A, Rev. 1.0A
Processor: Intel P4, 3.2 GHz
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce FX 5200
Power Supply: OKIA 450ATX, 450W
Main HD: 60 Gigs (~5-6 years old)
Data HD: 160 Gigs (3 months old)
DVD Rom (~3 years)
DVD R/RW
3.5 Floppy (very old)
Firewire card (triple port)

Brief background… This all started last week when I saw an error pop up while the system was idle…something about data being erased from one of my DRIVES (sorry, but I didn’t write the message down and I cannot remember verbatim what it said, but the only option I had was OK). When I tried to startup the next morning, neither HARD drive was detected, and the BIOS showed that no hard drives existed. Disconnecting and reconnecting the power cables from the drives solved this problem temporarily, but it continued to happen intermittently whenever I started up the system. When the system was running, the drives started making sounds like they were trying to power down and start back up (the system would temporarily freeze while this was happening). Thinking the power cables to the hard drives might be going bad, I removed the power cables from the 2 DVD drives and connected them to the hard drives. I was able to get a tighter connection with these cables, and I am no longer having problems with the drives being detected or making strange sounds.

The only problem that remains now is the shutdown issue. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Zaunerstollen (if interested, I’d be glad to explain the name)try putting this in the hardware section.. and deleteing this post 8-)Or, ask a moderator to move your post.


But about your problem:
Any AntiVirus software?
Have you tried resetting the BIOS?
Have you done a FULL format, or tried a disk data destroyer? You could have a hard drive resident virus... (And boy, aren't those fun!)
disk data destroyer??? whats that?Quote

disk data destroyer??? whats that?

Zaunerstollen....... This is just a shot in the dark , but when you click Start / Shutdown ........... and then a "shutdown windows" box pops up .....what does it say in the box ?

dl65

Help, I’m unable to view any files on my 8cm DVD-RW camcorder disc, I can see them on my PC at home but not on my Medion MD9500 laptop which is where I need to work with them whilst away. I suspect the PROBLEM lies with the DVD burner which is a Matshita DVD-RAM UJ-841S but DESPITE searching I’ve come up with nothing can anyone help I’m desperate to have this working for my holidays RATHER than taking stacks of DVDs and transferring them when I get back. The Laptop’s running WinHome ver 5.1 build 2600 with SP2 :-?You might search for a firmware UPDATE for the drive and see whether that helps.Yeah, it seems the DVD drive in your laptop can't read those types of discs. Same thing happened to me. You should first look for a driver update for the laptop DVD drive, install it, and if it STILL doesn't work after that, then you have no choice but to upgrade the laptop drive to a new one that can read those types of discs, if you really want it to work that bad.

Sincerely,
Michael Cottier
http://www.computer-customizing-guide.com/

Hi,

Dell Dimension 4100
Windows Me
Pentium III
128 MB RAM
80 GB hard drive
Opitiquest Q9 flat panel display
ATI RAGE 128 Pro display adapter

About one week ago, I noticed that short horizontal lines started appearing on my Dell M990 monitor screen. When
I moved the cursor around, little white lines appeared as well.

I bought a new Optiquest Q9 flat panel display to replace my old monitor, but the problem persists. When I reboot the computer the problem goes away for a while but then reoccurs. Half the time the problem does not occur at all after a reboot. I think there may be a problem with the ATI Rage 128 Pro display adapter but I'm not sure. Any ADVICE would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!Display adapter problem for sure. Start by trying the latest DRIVERS from the manufacturer's web site. If this does not cure your problem, you may need to replace the CARD.Thanks Rob! I will try updating the drivers and report back here with results.Rob is likely right. One other thing you might try if reinstalling the drivers does not work is to remove and reseat the video card (just do so when the power is off).

8-)Thanks for the suggestion. I seem to already have the lastest update for this driver. I will try reinstalling it and if that does not work I'll go ahead and reseat the video card.Reinstalling the driver seems to have fixed the problem. Thanks to both Rob and pcdoc4christ.Glad you're sorted. Keep us bookmarked! Thanks again Rob! I have your site bookmarked. All the best.

:-? Earlier this evening, there was a storm in my area. Nothing BAD, but it did thunder and lightning some. While it was storming, I was on the internet using a dial-up modem. My computer disconnected from the internet for some reason and now will not reconnect. In fact, if my computer is plugged into the phone line, you hear the "if you'd like to make a phone call" message, like the phone is off the hook even when you're not trying to connect. As soon as you disconnect the phone line, you get the dial tone back. (I checked and the JACK works ok, my phones work ok, and the phone cord works okay). So, I went into the modem and clicked on troubleshoot. The first thing it SAID was that the com port needed to be enabled. It told me to go into the device manager and click on "port". Well, when I go into the device manager, there is no port listed. Help?? :-?Turn the computer off for 10 minutes AND disconnect the phone line from the modem port. This will give you a hard RESET and all will probably be fine. If it does not, you may have a fried modem, but I think you will be fine.

let us know. Thanks for the suggestion, but I tried it and it didn't fix it. Every time I plug the phone cord into the computer, the dialtone goes away after about 30 seconds and it acts like a phone off the hook. Thanks though. Any other ideas?Remove the modem from the machine and then restart after deleting your modem drivers. Replace the modem and restart the machine.

Think about getting a new modem. What model was it? They are reasonably cheap.Quote

Remove the modem from the machine and then restart after deleting your modem drivers. Replace the modem and restart the machine.

Think about getting a new modem. What model was it? They are reasonably cheap.

This may sound like a dumb question, but do you need the monitor connected to avoid a beep code error? I assumed that you didn't need the monitor connected to check out the system. That is to see if the CPU, video and memory was OK. To get the one beep code that says everything is OK.How would you know whether video is OK if you have no monitor connected to the computer?Quote

How would you know whether video is OK if you have no monitor connected to the computer?

Find out for yourself. Turn off your computer, unplug the monitor, and turn the computer back on.

I am building three computers. I get the same constant beeps with different memory and motherboards and different CPUs. Thats why I am a little confused. I don't see why I need the monitor hooked up to check the basic build.
The BIOS is AWARD and constant beeps mean memory problems. The memory is compatable with all motherboards. I checked.

You all still don't understand. Since I was building systems I wanted to save time and just check to see if the basic build was OK,
If it was I would hear one beep. Then I will hook up the rest and install the OS, OK?

So this is my last word on the suject.

I downloaded the program Alcohol 120%, to burn CD images, and during the set up it created a VIRTUAL DVD/CD drive. However now the PHYSICAL drive has stopped reading CD-ROMs, audio CDs or CD-Rs, but still reads DVDs. Any idea what MIGHT have caused the DVD drive to stop reading CDs? - It worked fine before.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.Sometimes you can run into problems with esoteric software like this. Did you check their web site or on their FORUMS for others with similar issues?No, I have to say I haven't looked just yet, but I think I'm headed there now

Hi

When i boot my computer up i keep getting a message that says Boot Disc Failure insert system disc. Just before this HAPPENED, i got a message from Norton Anti virus to say there was a Bloodhound Virus on my pc. I have a ghost image on my PC... so i ghosted back to the TIME i thought all was well. When i booted up after this, i got the same message. But since booting it up with the system disc in i dont get the message. What is this virus or Hard drive.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=bloodhound+virus&btnG=Google+Search

By system disk do you mean a real WINDOWS XP disc?YES its legal XP Home> So is this a virus or Hard Drive Thanks. Ok system only boots up with WIN XP Home in Drive.

I recently purchased counterstrike source and have since realized I really need to upgrade my video card lol. I have researched the subject for a few weeks now and all thats accomplished is to confuse the *censored* out of me. I had settled on the GeForce 6600GT 128MB. It seemed to fit all required goodies, and a deff upgrade from my ole GeForce 2 mx/mx 400. I found it on ebay and the requirements seemed to NOT fit. So I went to Nvidia's website and they showed an even different set of requirements LOL. I'm not sure if im seeing the same card with different configuration options or if im just getting conflicting requirements for the same card. Any HELP would be appreciated, IF this card will not work for me, any suggestions would be very welcome. My heads so full of info at this point I think I need an outside opinion haha......Thanks in advance

My computer specs according to AIDA32 if any other info is needed im sure i can figure it out.
Intel i845
agp 2.0 1x 2x 4x
1.5v
250 watt*can/will be upgraded*
512mb ramAnd the processor is a ________________.

And the motherboard is a ___________________.Figures I'd forget something ha sorry about that.
Intel pentium 4 1600MHz (4x400) CPU
for mobo Dell Dimension 4300OK, so here's your info:

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim4300/

And you may be very limited. Even though you have a 4x AGP slot, a modern video card will need a LOT of power. As you have realized, the 250w is not larrge enough, but most Dells use proprietary power supplies so physically you may have trouble mounting one and also use proprietary wiring to the motherboard. An off the shelf PSU may not work. There are a few aftermarket suppliers, but they are expensive and not terribly much more wattage.

I would check with the seller first. These guys are very knowledgable.

http://www.endpcnoise.com/cgi-bin/e/std/sku=dellconverter

It appears that your model escapes this limitation, but check first.

That card NEEDS at least 350w. from a quality maker and 400 seems more reasonable. An "el cheapo" is never a good idea.

A 4x slot will not be the optimum for an 8x card, but may work OK. Some manufacturer's list an 8x slot as required.Ok so that IS an 8x card.. That was one place I wasnt sure bc I kept finding conflicting specs on that card lol thank you. I did not know that the PSU was Proprietary, or atleast might be. I will have to check into that. Even if I dont upgrade the video I feel I should upgrade the psu simply because I have added a SECOND harddrive in the last 2 months. 250watts just seems to little either way. I have noticed that there doesnt seem to be alot of options in the way of 4x cards, atleast I cant seem to find them ha. Anyway, thank you for BRINGING the PSU issues to my attention, I wouldnt have found that out till I bought one and tried to install it lol. I'll work on that little upgrade first then think about going back to updating video. thanks again for your helpNo problem. Keep us posted. lostinaseaofinfo, many 8x cards will run on a 4x system. The critical element, according to such sources as AGP COMPATIBILITY is the voltage, not the x rating. I'm using a GeForce4 Ti4200 8x AGP card in a motherboard rated 4x.

You might consider a card with lower power requirements for your video upgrade, and still have good improvement over your GeForce 2 mx/mx 400. For example: GeForce 4 Ti 4600 AGP by PNY Technologies Inc. Used

By the way, I also have only a 250W PSU, but a single hard drive.

i'm going to be buying a laptop soon, and i thought it would be nice to play cod2 and bf1942 on it.
i just want to know which of these CHIPSETS would be the BEST pick:
ATI RADEON® Xpress 1100
ATI Radeon® Xpress 200M
NVIDIAl® GeForce GO 6600 128MB VRAM memory
Intel® Graphics Media Accelerator 900 graphics
Intel GMA950
Mobility Radeon X1400
ATI Mobility RADEON 9700
..im guessing the x1400, but they're out of stock and may not have them for a while, so if thats the case which is the second best?Just remember that gaming laptops are VERY expensive and will not measure up to a desktop unit with a whiz bang video card. yes i know that, i know laptops aren't made for gaming, but those games aren't very demanding at low graphics. and i've also heard that people play bf2 on medium with the x1400. but i dont even wanna play bf2 on my laptop, cause ive gotten a little sick of bf2. i LIKE bf1942 more.. and people have played that game on a 32mb vid card laptop. those graphics cards are like 128mb - 256mb.so anybody know?

got a ecs elitegroups PA1 MVP motherboard. radeon 1300 crossfire ready pci-e graphics card. shunt card is INSTALLED. an old hard drive and a new hard drive one in the ibs plug and another in the SATA plug cause the old one isn't sata. i TRIED it with and without the old drive plugged into the hard drive. has 24-pin 600 watt power source with it set on the low setting of output. i had tried it with an nvidia 6200 non cross fire ready with the exact same result. i'm sure it's SOMETHING obvious and i just don't know what to look for. the motherboard works FINE the pentium works fine (775 pin) the fan works fine but the hwole computer just starts up and has no monitor signal at all and then shuts itself off without explanation. trying to say everything i can think of here.... tried flashing the bios a few times didn't seem to help tried resetting the computer clock.... the cd drives are correctly configured for master/slave and the hard drives apparently don't have a switch to MAKE one master and the other slave so. i'm guessing something somewhere in this mix is incompatible somehow but i don't get how as everything fits... has anyone encountered this problem before?It's always smartt to benchtest the thing BEFORE mounting in the case. At this point though disconnect everything except the motherboard, COPU/Fan, video card and 1 stick of RAM. Does this boot? If not there is an installation problem. If it works add one thing at a time for an extended testing period to see what causes the failure.

By adding everything at once, if it doesn't work you don't have a clue where the problem is. alright cool but does that include the harddrive? not sure if there's a special dry boot or something... i have a hard drive with stuff on it and without stuff on it btwStart with just the basics. Hard drive is added later as well. One thing at a time.

Quote

For future REFERENCE, if you go to system in the control panel, on the advanced tab click settings for startup and recovery. Untick automatically restart, and it won't reboot when you get the BLUE screen, allowing you to read it.

:-[Can anyone give me some advice on the following.

I have a Pentium 4 dual core 3.00 ghz processor, Msi 5950 ultra G FORCE graphics card, plenty of hard drive space 250 gig. 2 gig of ddr133 ram and a jeantech artic 600 watt power supply.

I bought the game Rise and Fall a few WEEKS ago and it seemed to work fine on my computer.
a few days ago I cleaned my drive and did a clean install of xp pro. also downloaded the latest patch for the game and all the latest drivers etc.

Now everytime i start Rise and fall and other similar games the digital tempreture rises up to 35c from its norm of 27 to 28c and the computer just cuts off after about 15mins.

It seems like the power supply safety cut off, but it is only a couple of months old and unless I run a game everything is fine.

Anybody got any ideas what it might be? Thanks in advance for any help DammanThese symptoms are usually a bad PSU, bad RAM or excessive heat. You can test the RAM with a free download from www.memtest86.com. You can test the heat theory by removing the SIDE pannel and blowing a fan directly in there while gaming, Either a test of the PSU output with a meter or replacing with a known good one would test that possibility.

I would be INCLINED to guess PSU.
well if your temps are only 35c then its not LIKELY a heat problem. i would look more at the PSU... i've never heard of jeantech so i don't know what kind of brand it is, but your PSU might be faulty. if you can, return that one and get a new one and see if that fixes your problem. memtest86 is an excellent program, doesn't hurt to check your ram either.Specs on the PSU seem good, but I too have never heard of that brand. Where did you get it? Is it new?Specs on the PSU seem good, but I too have never heard of that brand. Where did you get it? Is it new?

Please post back on the 3 issues addressed.