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Hello,

Yesterday at night, my PC booted to this screen:



It doesn't make any beep sound, just shows this.
I've opened the case to check everything was connected, it SEEMED so and also the fans were all spinning, everything LOOKED fine.

After some tries and investigation, I've entered the BIOS settings to check the boot configuration, particularly the boot order and if the "fast boot" option was active:





The "fast boot" option was indeed active. I disabled it and also played with the order of "Boot priority" alternating between UEFI or the other one. Eventually it booted to Windows.

I thought "problem solved", since there was a Windows 10 update I thought maybe there was some change that didn't go well with my BIOS settings.



This morning the PC booted fine, I've worked with it and performed normally during the day. But now at night I turned it on and got the screen again!
I checked the BIOS and "fast boot" was active again, what the *censored*?!

CHANGED it and played again with the boot order and after a few tries the boot went normally again. When Windows starts all things work smoothly.

So my question is what the *censored* is happening? Is there any component failing?

I have my PC since 2013, it's been working flawlessly and only had a upgrade about 1 year ago (GPU, CPU COOLER and new 1TB SSD).

The current setup:
CPU Intel i7 4770 3.4GHz
ARCTIC Freezer 34 CPU Cooler
MBO Asus Z87 plus
GPU MSI Nvidia GTX 1660 super
RAM 2x 8GB DDR3
SSD Samsung EVO 1TB (where Win 10 is installed)
SSD Samsung 250GB 840 basic
HDs 2TB, 3TB and 4TB drives
PSU Cooler Master G 700w Replace the CMOS battery...Part # CR2032

how to connect to Parallel port ? ? I've gone through a NUMBER of tutorials on the net but STILL I am unable to solve my problem. I just WANT to read eight BIT DATA from the standard parallel port (where the printer is plugged in). . . .plz help meyou need so form of software to help you do this..what data are you trying to read...what format...

Hi everyone. I have an Asus laptop for about 1.5 YEARS now with Win. 10 inside. Two days ago, I worked on my laptop for about 8+ hours (without break time) with charger PLUGGED in though the BATTERY was full. Now, it can turn on but it will turn off immediately. Does anyone KNOWS what cause this problem?
Thank you.Short answer, get a new battery.
Quote from: Geek-9pm on December 10, 2021, 03:44:21 PM

Short answer, get a new battery.

Let me paint a bigger picture here, today when i booted up my PC after loading screen black screen with a cursor appeard. After 5 minutes or so i forced shut down with button because nothing seemed to happen.
This happened one more time and then while booting up this disc only bsod "unmountable boot volume" appeard even after countless restets and tinkering with BIOS settings.
So i assumed there is something wrong with my system SSD disc, i plugged in my old disc that was the exact copy of the main one from 3 months ago to RUN some tests with chkdsk and diskpart and guess what? I can't boot any disc or even win10 USB drive ONLY when my main disc is plugged in.
So i booted with my old disc connected, turned on disc management tool and then connected my main drive and LITERALLY everything related to discs STOPS working, disk manager doesn't respond, file explorer is unusable when i click on the disc, can't VIEW device properties and diskpart is just frozen just as chkdsk and disconnecting the broken disc fixes all these issues.

I was slowly losing hope, i unplugged every data device except bootable USB with a win10 installation, clicked on repair my PC and then plugged my broken main disc and guess again what happened - every repair tool stopped working and the moment i unplugged the broken disc everything starts working again.

So my question is: is there any hope for restoring data from this disc? Is there any possibilities of at least formatting it?

Windows 10
Old (working) disc: 120gb kingston
New (broken) disc: 480gb SanDisc (used for 3 months)
My goodness, I am only posting to commend you on the detail. Good to see somebody for a change post details properly. As for answers, though, I best let somebody that KNOWS the Win10 system. So far I have only one Win10 unit that I don't use too much. Although I sense this isn't solely a situation centered on the type of OS.

Anyway, just wanted to commend you on the detail and hope others see how you posted and take a lesson from that alone.

My computer has 12GB of RAM and 16GB of dedicated VIDEO RAM. I only need 8 for the Video but 16GB of RAM. Is there a way to Change them?SHORT answer: "NO".
If you need the LONG answer, I will leave that to others here.

Hi,

I recently came to to know to rectify system slowness and HANGING issue we should get it's RAM upgraded and for Lenovo G450 Laptop model we should have latest RAM Two 4GB RAMs of Crucial company.

But Could soomeone please help by clarifying as soon as possible which one is the latest model for this Lenovo G450 model either DDR3 PC3-12800 CL=11 Unbuffered NON-ECC DDR3-1600 1.35V) or Crucial 4GB 1600MHz DDR3L 204-Pin Laptop MEMORY (CT51264BF160B) because as per Amazon mobile app laterone (Crucial 4GB 1600MHz DDR3L 204-Pin Laptop Memory (CT51264BF160B) is the newer RAM model but as per crucial company (https://www.crucial.in/compatible-upgrade-for/lenovo/lenovo-g450) (DDR3 PC3-12800 CL=11 Unbuffered NON-ECC DDR3-1600 1.35V) is the latest model for this Lenovo G450 laptop model.

Could someone please help regarding the above please also will Windows 10 still be slow on this Lenovo G450 Laptop model evenafter above RAM upgrades or with combination of SSD and RAMs it should work fine?


Thanks MUCH....
well, one is ddr3 and another is ddr3l which is important difference. As looking on the net, the g450 have ddr3 slots. And max CAPACITY is 4gb (so, I presume one 4gb kit or two 2gb kits).
Cpu on this one is kinda slow so even with 4gb ram and 120gb ssd you will feel some sluggishness. But, I would say that for the really basic tasks...it will be ok. If it will be for basic surfing and LITTLE (word, excel...) business...why not go gor one the linux versions? They do work better with older hardware?So , If I put two 2 GB RAMs one 4GB RAM and 480 GB SSD then also can I not expect Windows 10 to work properly on this Lenovo G450 Laptop model?



Thanks much...well, no. max size is 4gigs, so just 2x2 gb or 1x 4gb. The bigger ssds are usually faster but here is irrelevant, the cpu is the bottleneck. As I said...win10 will work even on smaller ssd but it will really be basic operations only.

Have a BT speaker that I renamed when I first installed it. Everything was groovy.

But then something went kerflooey on other BT devices, so I just deleted everything and ADDED them back in.

Now I can't RENAME the speaker.

Oh, I've tried - and sometimes it sticks until the next reboot. But ultimately it reverts back to its factory name.

I've done EVERY permutation of rename-in-control-panel-and-power-off I can figure out MATHEMATICALLY. I have gone through the registry and picked out every single mention of its factory name, and yet.

Any THOUGHTS?

Trying to upgrade a Dell Inspiron 1545 laptop computer with a new SSD. I used Acronis to copy the hard drive but could only get the drive to BOOT if I stuck in directly into the port. It does not recognize the dive if it is properly INSTALLED in the mounting rack and INSERTED into the slot. The new drive is a PNY Do-It-Yourself 1TB upgrade kit.well...you allready answered...if you put it directly into the slot it works. So, I guess it is the mounting rack?
acronis will recognize the drive also if it is in the usb DOCK. TRY that option also.

I'm looking for some help when I boot up my pc nothing displays on the screen. I've tried a bunch of things to resolve the issue.

I've tried 3 different tvs
3 different hdmi cables
I've tried a DVI cable
I've tried reseating my graphics card and ram
I've took out my graphics card and tried just using my onboard graphics

The tv(s) are connected to a wall outlet
The light to the tvs are on when I've tried booting the pc
Whenever I've tried plugging an hdmi cable in the pc the message I get on the screen is that there isn't a connection coming from the computermonitor or tv? anyway...let us see:
1. do you see picture if monitor is connected? via vga, dvi or hdmi cable to pc?
2. do you see picture on tv without pc connected (just normal tv programs?)
3. do you see picture if you connect any other pc or laptop to tv/monitor?
4. did you try with windows+p KEYS to switch between modes?
5. what happens if you have picture on monitor only and then plug the hdmi cable to tv?Have you ever done this before?
There are things s that can MAKE it hard to do.
Have you tried another computer?
Have you tried a tablet with HDMI?
Here is a GOOD tutorial:
https://www.techsolutions.support.com/how-to/how-to-connect-a-windows-laptop-to-a-tv-over-hdmi-12554

Does that help?

I have fried 2 pc sound cards by plugging a stereo jack into a pc sound card because the soundblasters were not turned off (I have my pc configured to play all around my appartement so i have 3 devices to power off) And with a buzzing noise there is no more music coming from the motherboard's green jack, front and back.

And I bought this brand new PC that I would not want to break, i tried a usb sound card but the sound is 30% lower and weaker.

I read about ground loop noise isolator, but it SAYS it's mainly for devices that have static sound when plugged to a pc like a nintendo switch, question is does it prevent shorting motherboard soundcard and does it make music less rich in sound.

I'm open to other suggestions to find a way not to fear making a mistake and breaking this new pc.

ThanksYour said:
Quote

I read about ground loop noise isolator, but it says it's mainly for devices that have static sound when plugged to a pc like a nintendo switch, question is does it prevent shorting motherboard soundcard and does it make music less rich in sound.

And I bought this brand new PC that I would not want to break, i tried a usb sound card but the sound is 30% lower and weaker.

HI Guys,

This is kinda a dumb question but im a little STUMPED. I have a few 386 and 486 machines that I've removed CMOS batteries from the board due to age and leaking. I need to come up with a modern mod that would allow a button cell or some sort of carrier that takes 3v to 3.6V batteries. Either something that solders something directly into the board or something with leads and gets secure at the bottom of the case.

My problem is, im not sure what i would search. When i search for a CMOS craddle or adapter on Ebay i get laptop CMOS batteries which are one time use. If possible, may i ask for your help as to what to search by definition here to get what it is I am after so i can keep these old machines to keep their hard drive/boot drive preferences.

THANK you. Here Ya go...Patio,

this is not what im after lol. These old 386 boards have SOLDERED on batteries. I want to make a button cell carrier or something like that double AA THING they had. But ive no idea what those carriers are called or what to search for online.

I just received a modware kit and thought I would try installing it. I turned off my computer, unplugged the power cord, removed the case, and installed the fan. I wanted to see if the fan would work, but didnt want to reattach the case, so that if it didn't work, I could remove the fan. I plugged the cord back in, and hit the power switch. The computer started up and everything worked fine. I then decided to surf the web, draw on psp, just mess around for awhile before I reattached the case. All of the sudden, my pc shut off. I tried to turn it on again, and when I hit the power switch, the tower started up and the fan came on, except for that my monitor and keyboard didnt do anything. When I hit Caps-lock, the little light in the corner of the keyboard didn't come on. I tried hitting Num-lock and Scroll-lock,
but that didn't work either. I then noticed that the little green light on the tower by the power switch wasn't on. Neither was the red one. I then tested the monitor. I pressed the MENU button on the monitor, and a window came up saying: "NO SIGNAL". I have tried unplugging the fan and turning on my computer, but nothing seems to work. I MAY have accidentely unplugged a two pin wire labeled "H.D.D. LED", while installing the fan, but I'm not sure. If that wire has any significance, then please tell me where it is supposed to be plugged. I really NEED my computer back, so if anyone knows about "NO SIGNAL" then please post a message. I have already tried the simple SOLUTIONS, like making sure all of the plugs are securely in their sockets, and I believe that it may be SOMETHING to do with the H.D.D LED. If anyone can help then GREATNo Signal on monitor means that the monitor isnt receiving a video signal from the system. Check video cable.

Front Panel LEDS not lit can be because they are removed from the BergStik pins. To know where they go you either have to look at the silk screen on the motherboard or get the manual for the motherboard which will show placement and polarity. If you plug them in wrong they wont light up when suppose to. A system can run normal with Power LED and HDD LED disconnected.

Inspect all connections to motherboard from power supply, front panel connectors, and to drives. Additionally all add on cards such as a video card need to be installed and seated properly as well as if the video card requires a 12VDC molex connection that this connection is connected to between power supply and video card.

*When you refer to remove the case and re-attach the case... I think your meaning the "cover" or "Side Panel" which is removable. Reading this initially it sounded like you removed all internals from the case and then put them all back in. Re-reading this it seems as you just left the cover or side panel off when testing prior to the mishap of the system misbehaving.Quote from: kevinroland on March 29, 2022, 10:55:30 PM

I just received a modware kit and thought I would try installing it. I turned off my computer, unplugged the power cord, removed the case, and installed the fan. I wanted to see if the fan would work, but didnt want to reattach the case, so that if it didn't work, I could remove the fan. I plugged the cord back in, and hit the power switch. The computer started up and everything worked fine. I then decided to surf the web, draw on psp, just mess around for awhile before I reattached the case. All of the sudden, my pc shut off. I tried to turn it on again, and when I hit the power switch, the tower started up and the fan came on, except for that my monitor and keyboard didnt do anything. When I hit Caps-lock, the little light in the corner of the keyboard didn't come on. I tried hitting Num-lock and Scroll-lock,
but that didn't work either. I then noticed that the little green light on the tower by the power switch wasn't on. Neither was the red one. I then tested the monitor. I pressed the MENU button on the monitor, and a window came up saying: "NO SIGNAL". I have tried unplugging the fan and turning on my computer, but nothing seems to work. I may have accidentely unplugged a two pin wire labeled "H.D.D. LED", while installing the fan, but I'm not sure. If that wire has any significance, then please tell me where it is supposed to be plugged. I really need my computer back, so if anyone knows about "NO SIGNAL" then please post a message. I have already tried the simple solutions, like making sure all of the plugs are securely in their sockets, and I believe that it may be something to do with the H.D.D LED. If anyone can help then GREAT

Greetings,

Have a HP PAVILION Elite e9000 and its giving me some odd issues. For kicks, i tried creating recovery DVD's of the ORIGINAL WIndows 7 as the client stated they might want to get 7 back on their for outdated software reasons. The computer will read the DVD"s i made, install and then boot loop.

Thats one thing, but in the end the bigger issue is, i cannot find anything on HP's website for this unit. NOTHING drivers wise.

https://support.hp.com/ca-en/document/c01911652

this is the closest i could find, but as soon as i click support it asks for my serial which i provide and then proceeds to tell me they found nothing.

Computer specs

AMD Phenom II X4 910
8gb DDR3
1TB WD HDD
AMD Graphics

Thanks for all your help. Good to seeya again Comda...
Sorry this aint goin smoothly but how did you make the recovery CD's and what tools were used ? ?HI Patio.

its been a while since I've been struggled with something But challenge accepted right?

The computer still boots into Windows 7. Its just very slow and despite the hard drive claiming its fine, something is VERY SLOW. So my goal is to do a SSD upgrade. But i created the recovery DVD's using the built in HP software to do so. That tool itself creates the 3x 4.7gb DVD's and when running it on a different HDD, it created a recovery partition as well.

If the SSD you are installing is smaller than 500GB then the recovery media may not lay out the correct partitioning for the ssd to boot . 500GB was the smallest drive shipped with that model

I also would check in the bios setup for any security settings like "secure boot" and "update secure boot " if they are enabled try the recovery with the secure boot turned off.
If the data on the old drive size is smaller than the SSD then why not clone the drive.
Also I see the motherboard only supports SATA 2 so the SSD will be throttled back to about 1/2 speed .



For now im actually using a 640GB drive i had lying around to try things out without compromising the data or anything on the 1tb drive.

The bios doesnt have secure boot or anything related. HOWEVER i did notice that the original drive booted in IDE mode, where AHCI is available. i tried flipping it back and forth to see if it would boot but no dice. It gets to the windows 7 splash screen and reboots. Thats why i thought it was a IDE/AHCI mode issue.

This is where i tried finding a BIOS update and not only couldnt find the page from HP, but no bios updates what so ever. It amazes me how off the shelf PC's dont have bios updates.

GOing to attempt to clone the original drive, recover it using the built in recovery and see if that works. As I recall, HP wiped out the links to a lot of their legacy downloads a while ago, which would be why you cannot find any bios updates or driver downloads from them. Which makes finding either a rather protracted chore.
BC_Programmer

Seems really shady on my end of things.

I was able to find the motherboard i have on HP's website. HOwever i want to ask if any of you are able to do anything with this page? AS i get no drivers from it.

Just wanted to double check before i tell the owner how limited I am in what i can do with this unit.

https://support.hp.com/gb-en/document/c01925486

Thanks. Well, drivers would typically be found on the page for the actual model number of the device, not the motherboard. Presumably you tried that already. I can't find anything for the model you listed.

I found a few forum posts about BIOS updates for that motherboard and they link to URLs on HP's website that no longer exist.

Based on those, such as this one There was no BIOS update as of 2014 so it seems possible there never was one.

BC_Programmer

Well, i appreciate you double checking my suspicions. THANK you for doing that. I suppose i'll work with what i have here. More than likely I'll do a clean install of both windows 7 and 10 and simply do a macrium backup for the owner to swap if he needs to again.

Thanks for everyones help.

Hi all, I've had no luck finding a solution for this online and I'd be grateful for any assistance.

I'm running a GIGABYTE Sabre 17WV8 laptop on Windows 11 though the PROBLEM occurred during Windows 10 and persisted through the update. I've had intermittent usb mouse and keyboard stuttering, not occurring at all some days then other days within 10 minutes of turning on the laptop. Restarting it seems to help only sometimes, and removing/re-fitting the usb doesn't help once its started.

When it faults, the usb keyboard and mouse stutters and receives input on movement and clicks at a LIMITED rate. I've tried different usb ports without success, and different mouse/keyboards and the result is the same, however other usb accessories don't have issues on the same usb ports.

Furthermore, the laptops inbuilt keyboard and mousepad are NEVER affected by this, even when the usb mouse/keyboards are in the middle of faulting.

Again I'd be so grateful to have this resolved as it's preventing me from doing certain facets of my WORK, and more importantly, gaming.While this is over 30 days old... I just saw it now and wondering if you found a solution to this?

I am curious if perhaps something is causing your USB controller to be busy such as transfers of data to USB device(s) at the same time that the keyboard and mouse is in use to where it creates latency to the keyboard and mouse?

There is a small gym where customers can walk in, sign up, ORDER a MEMBERSHIP, and do the training they want. The sign up has always been done by filling in forms with pen and paper. Now we would like to change our method to an online method. We found an online system where customers can sign up, order their membership, and they let us know their presence when entering the gym. They do this by using 2 websites. 1 for ordering an membership to be able to use the space and and a 2nd website for mentioning their presence in the gym.

We have a Samsung tablet at the entrance of our gym and for now the tablet is working as a tablet is working:
- you can download apps
- you can surf on the internet
- you can go into the settings and change things if you would like

We would like the following result: Customers can only visit the two websites and are not able to exit the two websites to do something else.

Does somebody know how that could work? Are there block-apps that can help?
If 2 websites are too complicated, then any advice for 1 website would also be helpful.

I hope that somebody can help me out.
Thank in advance!
You will need the help of an andoid app programmer who makes an app that is custom for your needs and navigation locked out and only STATIC web sites available to them with no URL options to go elsewhere. They would likely add a special lock/unlock feature so that you can manage the tablet such as tap all 4 corners clock-wise for like, top left, top right, lower right, lower left then a box pops up with a password to get out of kiosk mode and ALLOW you to manage the device, and then lock it afterwards back to kiosk mode.

Local hospital here had a programmer make their tablets only run as kiosk for Questioning Patients prior to their visit. Not sure what it would cost you to have this done, but there are PEOPLE out there who can do this sort of work if you put out an ad for help wanted for andoid app development and then see what they quote for price tag.

Hello all.

I currently have a DELL XPS 8940 with the system drive being a 128GB M.2 PCIe SSD. I would like to upgrade this to a 512GB drive.

What would be the best way to do this?Hi

Thankyou for using the forum, Do you have a USB drive you could use for a backup of the 128GB drive ?
If so then you could backup the drive then restore after INSTALLING the the replacement 500GB.

A program to consider is the free version of Todo backup. Using the System Backup option allows a full copy of the source drive and a restore to the new drive with a resize to use the full 500 GB.

to use the program download the free version, make recovery media then boot the computer from the recovery media, Select System backup. When the backup is finished. follow the guide on the Dell WEBSITE to swap out the drive. Boot from the recovery media and then restore the backup.

If you haven't already brought the 500gb drive it would be a good idea to buy a drive with a heatsink or get a heat sink for your drive.
the M2 PCIe SSD run hot WITHOUT a heatsink.

If you don't have a USB hard drive available then a PCIE card to M2 could be an option.
Something like this
ZoeRax NVME Pro Adapter M.2 NVME Pro SSD to PCIe 4.0

You could then have both drives in the computer and skip the backup to USB step.
Instead of TODO backup you could use the free software available from the new drives site.


Thanks for the info. I will look into that.

Has anyone tried a NVMe to USB Adapter? Any thing to watch for when using those?The consideration with NVMe to USB Adapter is the power requirements of the MVMe drive, this can be as high as 2 AMPS which is to much for a usb port. Also the transfer speed of the USB port with your computers usb3.0 PORTS you could expect a write speed of about 90MB/s and 480 MB/s or more on PCIe.

switching out 2TB HDD for 2TB SSD
used Acronis - after much initial cloning difficulty (CHKDSK, SFC repair, DISKPART SSD DRIVE clean), was able to get successful clone.
but now can't get past windows STARTUP...i get as far as user logins (no sound), then within about 5 seconds BSOD
doesn't matter safe mode, boot sequence, etc. every time BSOD

if i hook original HDD back up, works fine.

totally LOST. ran diagnostics from BIOS - everything checked good.
was too scared to tinker with much else....

Did you use the verify image in Acronis ? ?thank you for reply - sorry, no i didn't.

i just followed instructions -after the 'successful cloning', which was basically turn off, unplug, remove old drive, install new clone, restart, done.

being that acronis will only run when i have crucial drive in, i just connected it right now using the sata to usb cable so i could open program.
i don't see any menu item for 'verify image' and couldn't find any similar sounding utility

using Acronis True Image for Crucial, Build 39200

lastly - i think this may be a 'thing' SPECIFICALLY with xps 8700 and crucial ssd - i came across two other 7 yr old web posts from others with virtually identical circumstance - one had no follow up thread; the other said solved due to intel iRST driver updates. i have no idea of whether i even have iRST driversAll cloning apps i know of have a verify image tool...it compares the image sector by sector to the drive being cloned...You could try using Macrium Reflect which has a free Home version.Yes the Intel iRST drivers cause PROBLEMS with some makes of SSD's and are not necessary to have installed.

To remove the driver you will need to start windows in safe mode
Then follow the first section of this site

https://support.cyberpowerpc.com/hc/en-us/articles/360014775073-How-do-I-disable-Intel-Optane-

You also may have a bios setting for Intel iRST

I have a question regarding thermal paste. Do computers from 1995-1997 need it on their CPUs? I have my HP Pavilion 7285 still and I wonder if it could use it. Been having occasional brief interruptions of sound when playing Doom in DOS, and I wonder if thermal paste might help any.Generally, No. Even fans, in some cases, were optional.

Heatsinks showed up for later 486 120 and Pentium systems, But thermal paste didn't really become necessary until the faster Pentium II chips.

Thermal throttling behaviour would explain your symptoms, however, Thermal Throttling is relatively recent in terms of CPU capabilities. An overheating Pentium 200 PROCESSOR, like in that system, isn't going to underclock itself to lower it's voltage to PROTECT itself. It's just going to fail.

I'm not suggesting your processor is failing, mind you. Your symptoms PROBABLY have another CAUSE.

Quote from: BC_Programmer on February 18, 2022, 02:35:13 PM

Generally, No. Even fans, in some cases, were optional.

Heatsinks showed up for later 486 120 and Pentium systems, But thermal paste didn't really become necessary until the faster Pentium II chips.

Thermal throttling behaviour would explain your symptoms, however, Thermal Throttling is relatively recent in terms of CPU capabilities. An overheating Pentium 200 Processor, like in that system, isn't going to underclock itself to lower it's voltage to protect itself. It's just going to fail.

I'm not suggesting your processor is failing, mind you. Your symptoms probably have another cause.

Hi guys. I want to build a gaming PC. While researching video cards, I CAME across the RTX 3050. It seems to perform well for that price tag. What do you think about this? I'm aiming 1080p.I'd avoid that like a PLAGUE victim. It's a CRAP card - at this point nVidia and AMD are just releasing utter crap because they KNOW it will sell.

If you already have a GPU I recommend staying with it and waiting for this GPU non-sense to pass.

I have a DigitalOcean & nginx server with IP address xxx.xx.xx.xx for several years. It has UBUNTU 14.04x64.

I just bought a Baidu server with IP address yyy.yy.yy.yy, it has Ubuntu 14.04x64 as well.

Now, I can connect to both servers by ssh.

I want to move the entire content of the DigitalOcean server to the Baidu server (without messing up the IP address of cause), does ANYONE know if there is any easy way to do that?

If not, one important website I want to move is BUILT by mean-stack, is there an easy way to just move this website?

Hello everyone.
I RECENTLY CHANGED the thermal pads on my video card. I have an AMD HD 7950. I was noticing high temps so i decided to open up the card and there i found that the original thermal pads were almost gone and were dirty so i ordered a 1mm thermal pad and changed it.
After changing the thermal pads when I turned on my PC, all the fans started to throttle all the way to a hundred percent and in a few secs the pc would go into power SAVING mode.
After some research i found that maybe the thermal pad is very thin and there is no contact between the card and heatsink
So i ordered another thermal pad, this time a 2MM one.
After everything was done I fired up the PC again and still it was giving me the dame results.
I would really APPRECIATE your help as I am not that well off and can't afford a new card at the moment.

Can somebody PLEASE help me? My disk space is still full and I don't know how to free up disk space. Everytime I try to free up disk space, it doesn't seem like it's doing anything. Hi Again,

READING thru all your posts etc it appears your laptop has a 32 GB hard drive which is likely not up gradable. So the laptop is not suitable for running Windows 10. It will keep running out of disk space . Probably hasn't had windows updates installed as these need more disk space.

You need to get another laptop. So I should get another laptop? Would you know how long I have with this laptop before I have to buy a new ONE? I really don't WANT to DELETE any more of my files. But if I was to delete my files and videos, would that free up the disk space?Videos for sure...files not so much...Is there anything besides videos that I could delete that would free up disk space?

I have an HP 500B Microtower Business PC that I was given but it doesn't work so I thought I would start by replacing the power supply. Is that a good place to start?No idea. What do you mean when you say it doesn't work?When I push the start BUTTON, it will not turn on, no lights, no fans TURNING, no beeps or any other signs of life, just silence. The only light that COMES on is the little GREEN light on the back of the power supply.Well, then yes - I guess the PS would be my guess as a good starting point. But as I always recommend when you're not sure - just buy it from a company that will accept returns.1st thing i would do with an old PC is replace the CMOS battery on the MBoard...Part # CR 2032 about the size of a nickle.
Remove all power first...Ok, I'll start by replacing the Cmos battery first since it is the LESS expensive part and if that doesn't work I will replace the power supply. Thank you for those suggestions.

I have a Brother printer model number DCP-J315W and I have ALWAYS printed in BLACK and white but lately the print is in blue even though I have selected black.It has been like this for a few weeks ago.Have just checked the ink level and the yellow, blue. and magenta are almost ful but the black is over half empty.Can someone explain whythis happens. Ihave just tried the following
Press Menu.


Press the up or down arrow key to choose Ink or Ink Management. Press OK.


Press the up or down arrow key to choose Test Print. Press OK.


Press the up or down arrow key to choose Print Quality. Press OK.


Press Color(Colour) Start. The machine will print the Print Quality Check Sheet.

And what I got was a page showing two blue segments one magenta and half of the yellow segment but no black

I also clicked on Menu then ink management then test Print then print quality same resultHave you cleaned the print heads? It may take up to 5 cleanings to CLEAR a clogged print head ACCORDING to user manual.Replace the black cartridge after doing the above...it may look 1/2 full but likely dried out...Sorry for messing you around as I feel a right idiot have just found out what the problem is I have two blue cartridges instead of a blue and black.I must admit I have never thought about that.Not sure how that happened.Thereis still a problem with the yellow which is almost full but on the test page there are only three lines despite during several clean up's.I thought I had better let you know and feel a right dickhead.Thaank's for all the repliesGlad you dot it sorted...Hi

To fix the yellow you will need to replace the print head. Which COSTS as much as the printer. So now might be an opportunity to look at what you are printing. If you don't need colour then perhaps a Black and white laser printer, this would be cheaper to run and maintain. Ihave just bought a set of cartridges and removed the blue cartridge which was in the slot where the black one should have been and then fitted the black cartridge but when I did a test page There were still two blue prints so not sure what tio next.

I hope I am in the correct Forum for this discussion. HP Compaq 6200 Pro SFF upgraded from Win 7 Pro to Win 10 Pro. 1GB HD
I recently added an external HD for added storage to the PC. THAT is a 1TB Seagate in an "AirLink 101 3.5" USB 2.0 SATA Enclosure". It comes up in Windows Explorer as "EXPANSION Drive".
LAST night, I went to reboot the PC for the first time since adding the drive and was notified there was no OS on the drive and couldn't boot off the drive. This is understandable BUT, is there a way to "slave" this external drive without having to unmount it before rebooting? The enclosure is powered has a POWER button to turn it off but, again, that involves going through the process of "ejecting" the drive before a reboot.
I had the enclosure open before I hooked it all up and noticed there is no little black jumper on the rear of the drive for master or slave like the older drives had for internal mounting so, that is not an option ATM.
Any assistance with this will be greatly appreciated.Unmount brfore rebooting or you risk losing all data...BTW you cannot run Win from an external drive...this is by design.Either change the System's boot order so it checks the Hard Drive before it tries to boot from USB, or, you can use an appropriate disk partition editor to edit the partition of the external drive to mark it INACTIVE.

Hi all!

When I plugged my Samsung TV to my PC via HDMI 2.0 cable (5 meters long), it worked fine. After a short time (HOURS), when I try to plug it again, my TV stays black, and my PC monitor starts turning on and off all the time, like if Windows is trying to configure my tv but is failing. If I unplug my TV, the PC monitor starts working again just fine. I tried several HDMI cables, but the same happens after a short time of using this other cable. The HDMI cable works fine if I use it with any other device. Both my tv and GPU have HDMI 2.0 sockets. I tried this with TWO different PCs I own, one with a 1070 TI, the other one with a 3080, just in case it was the GPU/Windows/whatever. Any idea why this could be happening? Thanks in advance!Simple answer. It is the TV set. If it has a bad hardware issue, you might damage other things. IMHO you should just use that TV as a TV. Go buy a new monitor.

Yes, this is only a opinion. But I have several years as an electronic TECHNICIAN In my house just about half of the outlets are grounded. If my LAPTOP when connected to its charger, and the charger is not grounded it does not play nice with my TV. On BATTERY it is fine and w/ the charger on a grounded outlet.

Could this be similar to your problem?It is likely that your video card or motherboard in the computer is at fault if the monitor stays on but you lose the video signal. It is also possible for a computer to randomly shut down if its overheating or if the video card is defective

My GPU is a AMD Radeon (TM) RX 480 Graphics.

Idle temperature is 30-40°C but it JUMPS to 90°C ALMOST immediately running old games at 25% workload and shutting down completly trying something newer.
The Fans are working and cleaned, I applied new heat paste und the airflow is good.
The GPU just seems like it doesnt get cooled as the fans go wild but the temperature keeps rising.

Does anyone know what might be broken or what I can try?Most probably gpu is broken/faulty. Try with new psu also (despite not relatable option)GPUs can get hot while idle for a number of reasons including incorrect fan speed settings, graphics-heavy processes, background software, and voluntary or involuntary overclocking. The GPU overheating problem can be resolved by resetting these settings or restoring the defaults. You should also check motherboard performance. if there is any LAG then consider this also. you can get more info about compatible BOARDS with your GPU here. https://demotherboards.com/

Hi my computer abruptly shut off. I pressed the power button to turn it back on and nothing happened. I gave it 15 minutes turned it on and it started. I went about my business for 2 or so hours and it turned off again. It attempted to REBOOT and a FLASHING red light came on and it started beeping several times. I unplugged it and held the power down to discharged it. Remounted my ram and graphics card. Aired out the fans, one of which on the graphics card was not spinning. POWERED it on, heard no beeping green light. The fans started to roar, like I've never heard before but neither of my monitors were getting any signal. I checked cords same thing. No signal. If anyone knows how to fix the issue I'm all ears. I read that the flashing red light and repeated beeping issue though no longer occuring may be a corrupted ram issue. And that the no signal to either monitor though I'm green lighted could be a graphics card issue.

My question is should I buy a new motherboard is it SAFE to INSTALL my dead PCs Ram and Gpu?

My card readers refuse to work on my Acer LAPTOP, I used to plug in and get options, EDIT, copy, send, etc but now I get nothing. I have established it is not the card or reader that is the problem. I just use google chrome and don't touch One drive or Microsoft, has any one got a solution to my problem, I did windows update with no success. thanks for viewing, now I am hoping. You might clicked on option that never show again that options you MENTIONED or card reader is the culprit. if you plug the card reader in acer and then open windows explorer, do you see extra drives or not? if yes, you probably disabled that popup window and you can enabled it again. If not, it's the reader or usb port(s). Try uninstall or delete drivers for usb (hardware manager), restart and try again.Thanks for your info, don't quite KNOW what I did, something to do with Microsoft It is now WORKING properly, thanks again.

I need to reformat my hard drive but am unable to load the bios setup or ANYTHING. It finally says "your pc needs to e repaired, ERROR code 0x0000034"
when I select boot options the only options listed are : boot from efi file or notebook ethernet ipv4.
I just want to get a cmd prompt so I can use diskpart to re-partition.
Any help would be appreciated...Well...I think you want to install windows from drive itself which is not possible (refresh is). Anyway, make an usb drive or dvd with windows image (you can download it from microsoft) and then try with install. Do you press f10 just after the boot to get into the bios/uefi settings and there select boot device?I have put in a WIN 10 iso dvd as well as a flash drive and the laptop will nor run then,,it say no bootable device foundi get you but did you ACTUALLY get in the bios or not? booting from dvd or usb is either by default enabled in bios or not. in that case you must go in the bios (f10) and there select the right option.

Windows 10 Pro Version 21H1 (OS BUILD 19043.1348)
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD7
CPU: Intel BX80613i7980X Core i7 980X Extreme Edition
R.A.M.: Patriot Gamer Series 12GB (3 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
GPU: XFX AMD Radeon R9 295X2
PSU: Corsair HX1200i 1200W

https://imgur.com/a/2ojlu5F
https://outervision.com/b/wOggbk

My PC is quite old and is now consistently shutting off under load (Streaming, Watching Streams or Playing a Video Game), it does not give me much time before it quickly shuts off after starting one of the mentioned loads, for example I can not even finish one death match in Valorant before it shuts off

I am suspecting my GPU is overheating and is causing the shut downs, often when my PC is idling the fan would rev highly at 3000+ RPM

I would LIKE to ISOLATE the problem and stretch out my PC for a few more years, If I can keep the same build that would be great but I am thinking of testing the PSU, Change the GPU, Change the thermal paste for GPU, maybe even for the CPU (No signs of abnormal temperature)

Please let me know what you think, THANK you!
Use speedfan or another tool to see what your temps are all reporting for CPU and GPU and then go from there. If the GPU is roasting then you either need to clean it out of dust and may have to apply new thermal compound. Additionally video cards can fail in a way that they are fine under light loads and then under a heavy load they drop dead and then cool and behave again due to a microfracture in a chip that the connection opens when hot. Lets see what the thermals show before moving forward with swapping parts.It turns out to be my GPU, I am USING a temp one right now, I am just wondering if repasting my GPU would help at allAdding new thermal compound or thermal pads will only work if the GPU hasn't already been damaged. If it was just a thermal condition that tripped up the video card without permanent damage it may be able to be cured but if it has permanent damage then its likely to still act up after replacing thermal compound or thermal pads.how would a gpu be permanently damaged?

The issue(https://imgur.com/vYNf6DD)

Another example of the issue(https://imgur.com/N8IN7T9)

Monitor is Dell SP2309W, GPU is AMD Radeon RX 6700 XT, CABLE is HDMI to HDMI (Modern)

I am able to stabilize the DISPLAY on the Monitor with glitching lines(https://imgur.com/eIHa1ot) by setting it at 25Hz(https://imgur.com/dyOVQ3u) or under, if I attempt to set it any higher, it will cause the issues shown above

I removed all inactive devices under Monitor(https://imgur.com/CH3qKtp) within Device Manager, leaving only the active Monitor

I scanned with Command Prompt(https://imgur.com/WM8Lef0), no issues detected

This began after I used DDU by Guru3D(https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html) to remove my previous GPU (2 days ago) and installed AMD Radeon RX 6700 XT

I think this is the first time I used HDMI to HDMI cable with the Monitor (Maybe this is the problem), my previous GPU used Mini DisplayPort to HDMI which works fine, I was able to set the Monitor at its highest RESOLUTION at 60Hz and 75Hz with some lower resolutions

I tried 3 DIFFERENT HDMI cables (2 old and 1 modern) only to see the same results, my old TV has no issues when I use the same cables to display at 1080p 60Hz

After I uninstalled (With DDU), I let Windows install the drivers and have not downloaded anything from AMD, afraid that it will glitch out if I do

Please help!

Previous issue that led to this point(https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/sasc8n/new_gpu_will_not_display_on_monitor_because_of/)

Hi I'm new to this my son wanted dual monitors he has an rx570 4GB card with 1 hdmi and on-board with 1 hdmi he's got a monitor on each but one goes blurry he has 3 dp connections on the gpu can they be used instead of hdmi ports Most modern computers can do dual display.

However, if one monitor is looking bad it would likely be the monitor or the cable.

I have a older Dell desktop with Winnows 10 and the main screen is a TV set that allows VGA input. The other is from a GPU card that drives a HDMI cable .

There are many, many variations you could have.

If you provide some details about the computer, some expert here MIGHT be able to help. PLEASE MENTION what OS you are using. Is it Windows 10?

Never tried dual display from different (!) outputs but it LOOKS like it's working. The best option is that you get dp to hdmi adapter and connect both display to gpu only!

So when I go to turn on my pc, all of my other components turn on and my graphics card won't. I'm completely stuck.

Psu: evga 850 watt gold
Gpu: amd power color 6600
Motherboard: ROG strix b550-f gaming wifiNot enough info but...
- did you plug the monitor to the right ADAPTER (not the ONBOARD graphic connector)
- did you try with another cable or different adapter (DP, hdmi, dvi...)
- did you try with other gpu?
- did you try putting your gpu to other pc?

I COME home from a trip and my pc is like this, I restart it and wait a while, and it FIXES, the BUG happens again and again but now it's not reverting to normal. The entire bottom half of my SCREEN is buggy and glitchy, and it sometimes displays what's going on and stays on that specific picture for a minute the rest of my screen is fine it's just the bottom half, also it thinks it's a hardware problem because the buggyness does not display on screenshotsMaybe is faulty driver (installed via windows updates), maybe is hardware problem (faulty gpu), maybe you got problems with memory (try memtest !) or maybe system itself got CORRUPTED (try chkdsk or sft commands)
If you boot it in safe mode is the problem still there?
If you boot in some live linux distro is the problem still there?

The Issue(https://i.imgur.com/LWbHyOw.jpg)

Monitor is Dell SP2309W, GPU is AMD RX 6700 XT, Cable is HDMI to HDMI

I installed the GPU yesterday, since then it will not display on my monitor because of the refresh rate, it will black screen, glitch screen or struggle to display

I used DDU by Guru3D(https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html) and I believe when it uninstalled my monitor(https://i.imgur.com/H0s4plQ.jpg) the issue began and my monitor is replaced with a basic driver that can not communicate what refresh rate it can support

I am trying to find drivers for my monitor Dell SP2309W but nothing worked so far, prior to this situation it would say DELL SP2309W in Devices and PRINTERS(https://i.imgur.com/UhDWPVg.png) and under Monitor in Device Manager(https://i.imgur.com/1R9sJ7W.png), it no longer does and has been replaced by what Windows has found

My old TV can display without an issue(https://i.imgur.com/hgg0rua.jpg)

If the GPU drivers are uninstalled or I boot in Safe Mode(https://i.imgur.com/EBvXkIn.png), it will display on the monitor, while in Safe Mode it thinks my monitor is still the old TV(https://i.imgur.com/o3rHPuR.jpg)

I tried lowering the resolution, did not help

A little digging shows the generic driver is at 64 Hertz(https://i.imgur.com/5vISDiA.jpg) with no other options AVAILABLE, which exceeds my monitor limitation of [emailprotected]

https://i.imgur.com/oDybO1h.png

Please help!

EDIT: I was able to install the drivers for my monitor Dell SP2309W, it is now being recognized for what it is

According to the DirectX Diagnostic Tool, Microsoft Basic Display Driver(https://i.imgur.com/3YKk3lM.png) is forcing the 64Hz on my monitor, which it can not handle, I don't know how I can change thisI deleted your duplicate post in "drivers". No need for more than one thread per question.EDIT 2: When the HDMI is connected to the TV, it is connected to the AMD RX 6700 XT, when the HDMI is connected to the monitor, it is connect to the Microsoft Basic Display Driver, confirmed this in Safe Mode where my monitor works at 1HzEDIT: I was able to install the drivers for my monitor Dell SP2309W, it is now being recognized for what it is

According to the DirectX Diagnostic Tool, Microsoft Basic Display Driver(https://i.imgur.com/3YKk3lM.png) is forcing the 64Hz on my monitor, which it can not handle, I don't know how I can change this

EDIT 2: When the HDMI is connected to the TV, it is connected to the AMD RX 6700 XT, when the HDMI is connected to the monitor, it is connect to the Microsoft Basic Display Driver, confirmed this in Safe Mode where my monitor works at 1Hz

**FINAL EDIT:**

With the Monitor connected to the GPU in Safe Mode, I SET it to the lowest resolution and made progression with normal boot-up against a glitching screen(https://imgur.com/Oky7X6v), it gave me enough visibility to change the Monitor's refresh rate, which was the goal

The display is stabilized on the Monitor with glitching lines(https://imgur.com/eIHa1ot) (which I can probably live with)

After uninstalling again with DDU, this time I let Windows install the drivers and did not download ANYTHING from AMD, afraid that it will glitch out again after installing the software, regardless if I download from AMD or Windows install the drivers, it glitches out after installation and not prior to

The issue now is I am stuck at 25Hz(https://imgur.com/dyOVQ3u), if I set it any higher (Regardless of resolution), it will glitch out(https://imgur.com/vYNf6DD) like that or this(https://imgur.com/N8IN7T9)

I think this is the first time I used HDMI to HDMI cable with the Monitor (Maybe this is the problem), my previous GPU used Mini DisplayPort to HDMI which works fine, I was able to set the Monitor at its highest resolution at 60Hz and 75Hz with some lower resolutions

I removed all inactive devices under Monitor(https://imgur.com/CH3qKtp) within Device Manager, leaving only the active Monitor

I scanned with Command Prompt(https://imgur.com/WM8Lef0), no issues detected

Placing this topic as solved (Since I kind of reach the goal just to deal with another issue) and making a new topic on the current issue

I want to thank every one that viewed, responded and left advice!

If you see my new topic, again, please help!

I have a problem of the com auto restarting itself when i play online games like DOTA and MapleStory, i dont get this problem when i just use the computer during normal usages such as SURFING the web or typing documents. Can any computer expert please help me out with this problem, i cant seem to find the cause and solution for weeks. :-?Excessive heat, bad power supply or bad RAM are the most common causes. As we know absolutely nothing about your system it would be hard to speculate further.Opps..sorry BOUT that
My com:
Intel P4 2.4Ghz
Gigabyte Mainboard
512MB DDR RAM
80GB harddisk
400W Power Supply
NVIDIA GeForce FX 5200

Is there any WAY to check what is wrong?
What make PSU? How old is the equipment? Are all fans turning? Have you checked your system temps?The PSU is a BST switching power supply:Model LC-B400ATX. I changed it around 6 months ago cause the previous 1 exploded.I got 1 fan working at the front of the CPU and another big fan blowing it.The com temp is at 53 degrees, is it too high? That sounds like an el-cheapo PSU, similar to the one that blew up. If you can, drop in a known working one and take it for a run. Free RAM test at www.memtest86.com. You may also want to remove the side panel and blow a fan directly in there and take it for a gaming run. I am assuming you have already removed the excessive dust inside the machine?Yup i got rid of the excess dust, i TRIED the method of opening the cover and blowing a fan directly, the com restarted again 10min into the run . How do i change the PSU? it looks stuck to the top. Is there a possiblilty of the programmes clashing with 1 another? Or the failure of the CMOS battery,cause my CMOS batt FAILED recently.http://compreviews.about.com/od/tutorials/ss/DIYPSU.htm

Hey guys, i'm having a strange PROBLEM with my video card/ ?monitor? I have an Nvidia GeForceMx 4000 graphics card and a 17" IBM thinkvision flatscreen monitor. I'm getting an afterimage slightly to the right of everything else on my screen. I.E: all the words in this post appear to end in two letters almost.

Edit: Forgot to MENTION, I just installed the latest drivers to try to fix it, but to no avail. Did this SUDDENLY start happening ?
Are you USING known correct settings for you card and monitor ?
Can you verify the monitor on another machine ?

Assuming that it's a card issue...
Could be a heat issue, blow out the case interior with canned air.
Clean fan filters if you have them.

With the case open, point a desk fan at it and SEE if that changes anything.

Can you monitor (and report) the card's temps with the nvidia control panel ?

As a last resort you could try under-clocking the card using a free utility such as Riva Tuner.First, try that monitor on another computer and another monitor onb this one. It is important to isolate where the problem is.

I will purchase a new Western Digital 160GB Internal EIDE hard drive for my Dell Dimension 2350, and do a clean install of Windows XP Home. Will this new hard drive require any preparation prior to running Windows XP setup? All of the utilities which I have seen to prepare hard drives run from a floppy. I am asking this question because the computer case does not have a floppy drive nor a bracket for the floppy drive.I've never seen a HDD that NEEDS preparing to install, the setup CD will format it and install just fine.
I'd SAY it should be a case of boot from the XP CD and install.Quote

I will purchase a new Western Digital 160GB Internal EIDE hard drive for my Dell Dimension 2350, and do a clean install of Windows XP Home. Will this new hard drive require any preparation prior to running Windows XP setup? All of the utilities which I have seen to prepare hard drives run from a floppy. I am asking this question because the computer case does not have a floppy drive nor a bracket for the floppy drive.

Greetings

I have a HP Compaq nx9005 laptop from 2004 with Windows XP Pro and Radeon IGP 320M video card. Since it's an OLD PC and and an old card, I can't run some of the newer games. After doing some search on this site and others, I'm now under the impression that the video card in my computer is integrated, so I cannot change it (which I don't think I could do even if it was possible) but I was wondering if it can be replaced in a store. Do they have to replace the motherboard as well, in which CASE I assume I should rather buy a new computer? And now a bit silly question, but rather than have my current video card replaced, is it possible for me to have another one besides it installed? I assume there should be a slot for it then, how would I find out if my PC has an 'extra' slot?

IF I have any hope of getting a new/another video card, would you have any recommendations for what I should get (or what I should get for my next computer, perhaps...)? I *think* I have a PCI slot in this one. The card should be able to support the heavier graphics of new games, which includes support for Pixel Shader, but it doesn't have to be the latest mind-blowing bestseller. Preferably it shouldn't cost much more than 200 dollars, especially if I have to pay someone to have the thing installed as well.

Thank you for reading this Laptops do not have PCI slots and you cannot upgrade your video in it. If you want something better for playing games, you need a new(er) computer, and desktops generally MAKE better gaming machines than laptops, although some of the high-end, i.e. EXPENSIVE, laptops may do fairly well at games. But, if gaming is a major objective and a desktop is feasible, that's the way to GO for a gaming machine.

How do i tell if i have one? :-?Do you have two VGA sockets at the back of your computer? (The ones the monitor GOES into). If yes then you have one, and a graphics card. Make sure you are using the graphics card plug!

If you have only one, go to start > run > dxdiag > display and tell us the reported graphics card. I think that will be the easiest way. You can use http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html to get a detailed report on your computer.If the blue plug that the monitor goes in is in one of the expansion slots, you have a card. If it is near the plkugs for the keyboard, USB ports, etc. on the back you have integrated graphics.

You could also POST the computer or motherboard make and model.

Or check in Device Manager under Display and see what is there.This is what i got on the directx diagnostic TOOL.......

I dont KNOW what one to look at....device or driver.....

Name:Intel(R)82810 Graphics Controller (Microsoft
Manufacturer:Intel Corperation
Chip typer:Intel(R) 82810
DAC typer:Intel
Approx. Total memory:32 MB

And next to the monitor plug in theres one that looks like a monitor plug in in shap and then there is a red one and a yellow one. I'm FAIRLY certain that's an integrated graphics card... or at least that's what the monitor is plugged into. I don't understand your last sentance. Unless you have two monitor plugs, you have integrated only.

I'm curious, why do you ask?Its integrated.Quote

This is what i got on the directx diagnostic tool.......

I dont know what one to look at....device or driver.....

Name:Intel(R)82810 Graphics Controller (Microsoft
Manufacturer:Intel Corperation
Chip typer:Intel(R) 82810
DAC typer:Intel
Approx. Total memory:32 MB

And next to the monitor plug in theres one that looks like a monitor plug in in shap and then there is a red one and a yellow one.

To me, the right thing is either LGA775 or AM2 sockets.
LGA775 is for Core 2 Duo mainly, and new CPUs will be released for it for a while YET.
AM2 is for AMD CPUs from the Athlon X2 upwards.
It will ALSO have new CPUs released for a while yet, and will also be compatible with the NEXT socket, AM3.
So go for either one of those for maximum upgradeability, and two PCI-EX16 slots.
The 939 motherboard above has the second-best CPU for it already installed.
See what I'm saying?yep.. im hoping to go this weekend and gather the parts and start buildingAlso don't forget the CPU cooler! The One you were looking at was an OEM and has no cooler at all! By the way, you can save some bucks by getting the eVGA version.
Quote

Also don't forget the CPU cooler! The One you were looking at was an OEM and has no cooler at all! By the way, you can save some bucks by getting the eVGA version.

HELLO CAN ANYBODY ADVISE/HELP/ WE HAVE THE FOLLOWING SPEC PC
2.66GHZ
248 RAM
INTEL EXTREME GRAPHICS CARD 82865G 64MB
USB 2.0 CONNECTION

WE HAVE INSTALLED 4X CCTV CAMERAS WHICH ALL FEED INTO A CONVERTER BOX, THEN INTO THE PC VIA THE USB 2.0 CONNECTION I MENTIONED ABOVE. THE SOFTWARE SUPPLIED WITH THE CCTV HARDWARE DISPLAYS THE FOUR CAMERAS IMAGES IN THIER OWN SQUARE ON THE MONITOR AND IT ALSO WRITES THE RECORDINGS ONTO THE HARDDRIVE FOR FUTURE VIEWING ALL GREAT.
HOWEVER THE PICTURE DISPLAYED AND RECORDED IS GRAINED/ NOT AS SHARP AS I WOULD HAVE HOPED, THE FRAME RATE IS NOT THE BEST EITHER!!!!
I HAVE CONNECTED THE CAMERAS DIRECTLY TO A NORMAL T.V VIA THE RCA VIDEO IN PLUG AND THE PICTURE IS BRILLIANT, SO THAT PROVES TO ME THAT THE CAMERAS ARE UP TO SCRATCH.
AM I ASKING TO MUCH OF THE PC MENTIONED ABOVE? OR ARE THERE ANY WAYS TO MAKE THE PC DEVOTE MORE OF ITS PROSSESING POWER TO THE CCTV/RECORDING SOFTWARE?
ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT. MW Hard to read it when it's all in CAPS.
Please lose the capitals except in the right place.
What OS?
What CPU type?
And how old is the PC?
What software are you using to capture the video?Sorry for caps!!
Windows XP
Dell intel
2 Years old
Software is provided with camera system. (AVI) i think
hope this helps..Does the PC itself run OK?No problems atall. normal.Use Task Manager to set the PRIORITY of the recording process higher, that may help.
Also update your drivers and get the latest Windows Updates, defragment the HDD.Thank you.. in your opinion would you say the graphics card is any good???No.
Check the GPU FAQ for details.

I have a COMPAQ presario 2100 and the CD/RW is not working, it MAKES strange noises. Does anyone know if they are a standard size to fit in a laptop or if I have to buy a compaq ONE?I would look for a Compaq one. You can check the HP WEBSITE for the details on it.

Hi all, I was curious if anyone might chime in on this particular subject. I just bought a new power supply for my computer (enermax noisetaker 2 485w) . Hooked everything up and after checking with the motherboard's (abit av8) tech support line, they think I just recieved a defective power supply.

I was just wondering if there are issue related to compatibility with power supplies and motherboards that go beyond ATX status or WATTAGE ratings (I made sure the power supply was o.k. on both those points) and if there is something I might want to check before I have Mwave send me out a replacement.

Thanks in advance!bo130.... YES it's possible the new PSU is defective , but why did you have to purchase the new one ?

Is it possible to test it in another machine ..and then you would know for sure .

dl65 My computer would shut itself down once (would re-boot and be fine on the second try) once reaching and loading up the desktop if it was shut off for 10 hours or longer (overnight). The "general consensus" seemed to point to the power supply as being the problem.

Unfortunately, I don't have another system handy or one that I could go to to mess around with.

I know that manufacturers end up sending out defective equipment - I just wanted to be sure that there wasn't something else that I was overlooking. Quote

I was just wondering if there are issue related to compatibility with power supplies and motherboards that go beyond ATX status or wattage ratings (I made sure the power supply was o.k. on both those points) and if there is something I might want to check before I have Mwave send me out a replacement.