Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

I have a computer with Windows XP PRO install. After trying to install Aol, Msn, and NetZero, I came to the conclusion the modem wasn't working properly. All three softwares pop up an error of "non working modem or the modem is BUSY." Up to this point, I install the modem on the windows xp pro onto another computer and the modem work fine. The other working modem that I have on the Windows ME computer, I install it onto the windows xp pro computer but it didn't work there either. When I try to check the modem properties on the Device manager on the windows xp pro computer, the device mangaer won't pop up the list of hardware, it will just stay blank, so I can't check the modem or other hardware devices on the device manganer. But when I check the modem under the control panel, it tells me that there is no modem install. What confuse me a lot is that when I open up the System Information, it does mention the modem that is supposely install. Can anybody please help me figure out what's WRONG?...THANKSSince 2 different modems refuse to work on the same computer, try installing the modem in a different slot.I install the modem on the three PCI slots that the computer has and it didn't work. I don't know if the problem with the device manager has to do something with the computer not recognizing both working modems. Is there any utility out there that I could use to find out if for sure the modem is install on the computer or not? And what could cause for the device manager on the Windows XP Pro system not to display the hardware install on the computer?Try using the Internet CONNECTION Wizard.

My computer runs Windows XP and I have a Maxtor hd which is partitioned into a "G" and an"H" drive. I shut the system down and when it was restarted it does not access the "H" drive. I can see the drive when I select "My Computer" but any attempt to access is brings back an error message saying that the drive is not formatted and asking if I need to format it. I can however access the "G" drive and everything on it. Any suggestions for a solution to this problem?
ThanksSo you have two physical hard drives in the machine?

Usually C is the main boot drive, so let us know how this computer is set up for a good response.I do have two physical hard drives - both Maxtors. One is partitioned into a "C" and a "D" - the latter used as a backup. My operating system resides on the "C".
My other hard drive is partitioned into a "G" and an "H" drive. I can access information on everything but the "H" drive.

Just for information, the other drives "E" and "F" are a CD Rom and DVD respectively.

OK, that helps. What happened prior to all of this? I ask because frequently we hear that it was "out of the blue", then days later we are revealed that there were hands inside the case, something was foolishly deleted, etc. Things that do make a difference.No "hands inside the case" in this case. The computer is usually left on and running all the time. In this case it was just shutdown and left overnight. Next day, on START up the regular wall paper did not appear and on checking, found that I could not access the "H" drive. What is strange is that I can access the "G" drive which is the other partition of the same physical hard drive.
If I go to "MY COMPUTER" and select the "H" drive icon the following happens
1) If I double click on the H-drive icon, I get a message saying
"H:\ is not accessible
The parameter is incorrect"
2) If I right click on the H-drive icon and select properties, I see that the file system is RAW. It also shows that the entire drive is used but indicated that the used space and free space both have 0 bytes.
3) If I right click on the H-drive icon and select "Open", I get a message saying
"The disk in H is not formatted
Do you want to format it now?"

When I select the G-drive icon and select properties, the file system shows as NTFS and it shows both used and free space.

Hope this provides more useful information.I am not sure how this happened then, probably some incorrect paramater when formatted. WHen was the last time this was done - the WHOLE drive partitioned and formatted? Wasa it originanlly installed in this case and then used, or did it come from a previous sytem, etc?

Are there files on the H Drive you need if his has to be partitioned and/or formatted again, as it APPEARS necessary?This was a new drive that was installed in SEPTEMBER. It was partitioned and formatted then and everything seemed to work well. And "Yes" my concern is that there are files which I would like to be able to recover on this drive if possible. If I have to reformat it I know they will be lost.You might, as I always suggest, try booting the machine with a Linux LIVE CD and copy the files elsewhere with that.

http://iso.linuxquestions.org/distro.php?distro=58That sounds like an excellent idea that I'd like to try. My question now is where and how do I get a Linux LIVE CD? I know there are many versions of Linux available but don't know anything about them.Click on the link above and download the ISO file. Then use Nero or some similar program which can burn an ISO to CD. This will make a bootable CD disc. Just restart the machine with this CD in the drive.Thanks very much for your help but my problem was solved on the advice of a friend who suggested trying check disk. I did and used the /f parameter. The problem was solved there and then.Be sure and keep that DATA backed up!!! Yes, I will and Thanks Very Much again

Hi,

I have a P4 PC running XP with a internal Sony DVD RW-U14A burner. I've been backing up my DVD's using Copy to DVD for some time now. All of a sudden I'm getting a message that the media is not large enough. The movie is already compressed down to 4.1 gb. When I look at the drive it shows that there is 0 on the disk but also 0 available.
The only thing I have DONE lately is download some songs for the kids MP3 and Ipod though I-tunes and MSN.
If anybody could tell me how to fix this problem I would appreciate it very much.

thanks, FrankSome possibilities -

- your scratch disk (the one that your DVD writer uses for a temp while preparing to burn) is full or nearly so. Make sure you have enough room on that hard drive.

- copy protection is preventing you from writing the file. Make sure it is not copy protected. Try another file.

- your drive may be faulty or misconfigured. REINSTALL the drive and drivers. Try another drive.

- your media may be bad. Try another disk. Try another manufacturer.

- you may have malware or a VIRUS. You may have gotten it from the source of your FILES or even the manufacturer. Sony has been in the news lately for installing copy protection malware via some of their products (without user knowledge or permission). Check for these with a good scanner.

- your burner software may be misconfigured or corrupted. Try reinstalling the software. Completely uninstall the old version first.

Dell

i'm trying to transfer all my file from my secondary harddisk , which seem not working WELL to my new harddisk !!!!! cause everytime i start up it'll go into blue screen message saying that it needs a check for file system consistency !!!!!

so , someone told me to do cut and paste !!!! but when i did the error message of " data error ( cyclic redundancy check ) " appears !!! then some files got transfered !!! but most of them not !!!!!


so , pls someone tell me how to deal with this !!!!! and i appreciate so much ,,,thanks !!!!!!!!!!!!!timsimp ........
There are plenty of technical resources on the Web that discuss cyclic redundancy checks (CRCs). Most times you won't need to worry about this technobabble. That is, until one it day it suddenly appears and you think - what the *censored* does that mean? In simple terms, a CRC is bit of mathematics used to ENSURE that your data is OK when being transfered. It's a checking PROCEDURE that quickly identifies when data has been damaged. If you get this message, it means that the file being read by your PC or software is corrupted. However, it does not mean all the data is lost forever. When data is transfered, it is usually in small blocks and each block is given a CRC value. If something goes WRONG with the data between the time it leaves the source and arrives at its destination, the CRC sent at the source will no longer match the one that is calculated when the data arrives - this is when the cyclic redundancy check error will appear.

Quote

i'm trying to transfer all my file from my secondary harddisk , which seem not working well to my new harddisk !!!!! cause everytime i start up it'll go into blue screen message saying that it needs a check for file system consistency !!!!!

ccbutch.......ok ...here are the jumper settings for each of your drives .........


If you want the Maxtor to be the Master .......... install jumper as shown

Do not use the CLJ jumper setting or the display size will not be right .

Then set the Western Digital as the slave ........ install jumper as shown



dl65

ok, so I now know the jumper setting, maxter as slave & western digital as the master., so what do I do now?

Just turn it off, switch the jumpers?
Disconnect the hard drive, switch the jumpers, then hook it back in?
or should I go all out and reformat my western digital and start brand new with the right jumper settings?
or some other wayI'm a firm believer in reformatting and reinstalling, just to remove all possibility of software configuration errors. Others like to tinker with settings.ok, I switched the jumpers and now when i go to disk managment disk 1 (G) SAYS 233.75 GB, so that's right. It also says healthy, not raw. So I thought I had it figured out.
But when I went to open it up or explore a window pops up that says
G: is not accessible
The parameter is incorrect

And when I try searching it comes up says the drive needs to be formatted.

I am also noticing that my computer is running much slower, like it did when I only had the maxtor drive before it crashed

Once I get my movies, pics and ext off the old one, I'm gunna reformat it and use it as back-up onlyI'm using the one that came with the western digital hard drive
EIDE Interface Cable
(40-pin, 80-conductor)

I also have an Ultra ATA cable that came with the Maxtor hard drive, but the thing said the western digital must be installed with the 40-pin, 80-conductorQuote

I'm using the one that came with the western digital hard drive
EIDE Interface Cable
(40-pin, 80-conductor)

I also have an Ultra ATA cable that came with the Maxtor hard drive, but the thing said the western digital must be installed with the 40-pin, 80-conductor

ok in disk management I got:

Disk 0
Basic PRESARIO_RP (D:) PRESARIO (C:)
279.45 GB 3.19 GB FAT32 276.26 GB NTFS
Online Healthy Healthy (System)


Disk 1
Basic (G:)
31.50 GB 31.50 GB
Online Healthy

and up top on G,C,and D the layout=partition, type=basic, status=healthy, fault tolerance=no, and overhead=0%

...

Is this drive partitioned? Could an OS be installed on a partition and the drive run on its own?

Have you tried running it on its own and using a KNOPPIX CD to see if it is mountable and can be read by KNOPPIX?

I have a Sony PC-RS210. I want to upgrade the ram which is two slots with 256 APIECE to 2 with 512. Issue is that the Sony site says it MUST be is DDR pc2100. I am curious if I could put in DDR pc3200 in it or would the computer/motherboard not recognize that speed?

Thanks for the help guys!RAM will default to the slowest speed present.

That being said,m all RAM is not thje same, and there is more to compatibility than speed.

www.crucial.com to see exactly what you need. Guaranteed compatible, and LIFETIME guarantee.

Some people just go there and buy elsewhere, but it's got to be an exact match, and there will be no compatibility guarantee. What are you going to do with memory that doesn't work if you got it elsewhere?Well, I would just like to increase the memory of my comp period and I found a good deal on the DDR pc3200. If my computer would run it at at least the same speed as my pc2100 then it would be worth the buy. Otherwise I would just return it or SPEND more on the 2100.Just remember there is more to compatibility than the NUMBERS you are focusing on....It may work.

A couple of days ago I rather stupidly started to uninstall BT Modem program, not realising that this was the ISP (AOL) Broadband modem. I woke up and cancelled the process about halfway through at the point where the modem needed unplugging. I then started reinstalling AOL with their disk, ETC, and was a bit surprised when connection was made without going through the WHOLE procedure. Things now all ok but now I keep getting NOTICE "Local Area Connection 2 Status- Limited or no connectivity" as I boot up. I cant detect any difference in use - do I need to do anything?

Thanks.1. Double-click on the Local Area Connection icon in the system tray and the Network Connections window will appear.
2. Double-click on the Local Area Connection icon in the Network Connections window, and the Local Area Connection Properties window will appear.
3. On the General Tab, uncheck NOTIFY me when this connection has limited or no connectivity.

Or check this:
http://www.helpwithwindows.com/WindowsXP/troub-13.html
http://www.pchell.com/support/limitedconnectivity.shtmlProblem solved - thanks for info Peccavi - also the two websites. They LOOK useful references.

It seems to have been connected to XP SP2 but I've had SP2 for some time and I wonder if the setting could have reverted to a default when I mucked about with the BT Modem.Nicely done, Peccavi.

You are all very welcome and posting back appreciated.

My honor to get praise from expert

:-? i bought a dell latitude computer and dont know if it is able to handle a wireless usb network adapter so i can go wireless to get on the internet and ive researches the net till im dead and cant find any info TELLING me it will. Ive been able to find that the usb port on this laptop is designed for things LIKE a mouse, keeboard, etc Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!loveracin ...... Whats the model of your Dell Latitude ? I'm guessing it's not a new machine .

Do you SEE a slot that looks like a telephone jack only SLIGHTLY larger ?


dl65 Older latitudes (back to the CPi (Pii-400) anywat gave 1 USB slot and a PCMCIA slot, so you can either use USB (slower) or a a wireless card (no more expensice). Some do NOT have an Ethernet jack, just a cutout in the case where one would have gone, if ORDERED with the machine.

Again, a model # or a service tag is better. If you download Belarc Advisor (free at www.belarc.com) and run it, it will show in the top right hand of the screen all of this and much more!

Hello,

I have a Sony Dual RW Dual Layer DVD drive. Lately, each time that I PUT a DVD into the drive, my computer freezes. Any ideas?

I built my own computer. It has a P4 processor and an XP Pro operating system.

Thanks,

MaryWhat motherboard, how much RAM, do you have all of the service packs and updates, what kids of drives and how are they CONFIGURED? Has it ever worked right with this drive? How old a drive is it? What have you tried so far? How does it show in DEVICE manager? Can it READ discs - CD and DVD?

Just a few details that could be helpful.

What is RAID and how is it good for your system? Is it FASTER or SOMETHING? What's the DIFFERENCEBETWEEN RAID 0 and RAID 1?Google is your friend and you can do it too!


http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=RAID

or

www.howstuffworks.com

Ever since I uninstalled some SOFTWARE, EVERY time my Gateway PC performs an operation, e.g., starting Worperfect, it TRIES to access the 3" floppy. How should I prevent that?What is the MYSTERY software and is it STILL installed?

If you want to see how to clean out your PC, here you go:


http://reviews.cnet.com/Clean_up_your_grungy_PC_Ditch_the_dust_bunnies_and_blast_the_fans/4660-3118_7-6246646.html


<----- Is kicking himself for expelling dust bunnies the HARD WAY (by BLOWING through a STRAW)!

I have a quite important file on a 3.5" floppy disk that cannot be read. I've tried other disks in my drive and they work, and I've tried the bad disk in another computer and it didn't work, so I know it's definitely the disk. When I put the disk in the drive and attempt to open the file it makes a bad noise, and eventually I get a "the device is busy" message. I can't email myself the file, I can't move it or copy it to another folder on my hard drive. I was wondering if anyone knew of anything I can do to RETRIEVE the file myself. I have a Compaq Presario 1800T laptop and run XP Pro. The info is fairly important, so I want to make the effort to save the file, but not so important that I want to pay someone else to do what I might be ABLE to. Any ideas?Sarah:

Are you able to view the floppy disk in My Computer? Try right-clicking on it and choosing Properties from the context menu. Does My Computer display the properties of the floppy disk and indicate the file system is FAT? If it does, try choosing the Tools tab in the Properties DIALOG box and clicking the Check Now button under Error Checking. In the Check Disk dialog box that opens, check Automatically Fix File System Error and check Scan For And Attempt RECOVERY Of Bad Sectors, and then click Start. Windows will attempt to fix the errors on the diskette so you may then access your files.

Let us know how it goes,
DocIt didn't work. It got partway through "phase 2" and then I got an "unable to COMPLETE" message. Also, now I can't open the A drive at all, nor can I right-click it for that menu. I get a (not responding). Any other ideas or am I totally screwed now?Yes, I got it out of my computer and then restarted, then put it in a disk I know works and made sure the A drive is ok. Which it is. It's just this one dumb disk.

hey everyone i have a DFI n4f-dagf and something odd RECENTLY happened.
ok so first i installed a new tv card in my system and everything worked ok until that and my audio card stopped functioning. i figured they had both died and started the process of sending them back. however, before i sent them back i tested my audio card on my old computer, and it worked fine.
so my question is... is it possible for the pci area of a motherboard to stop working while the rest can function fine? its odd because my computer still works fine, but i guess it wont detect anything on the pci area. my video card still works (which is on pci-express) which puzzled me even more. so if anyone knows whats going on plz leave a message. thanksIt's possible. There are ALSO probably drivers for different parts of your mainboard that may have become CORRUPTED. Go into your control panel / performance and maintenance / system / hardware / device MANAGER. See if anything has a warning next to it. If so, right click on the device, select uninstall, reinstall the drivers for the devices (probably motherboard drivers). Something may have happened to the drivers for your sound and TV cards. You can see if they're listed in the device manager as well, see if they're listed as working or having problems.Just because it came up in another thread, are you overclocking that motherboard/processor?nope i havnt overclocked anythingAny warnings in device manager as Phil asked?Actually, may not be any warnings. My system just won't detect CERTAIN devices untill the drivers are installed. Most mainboards have drivers these days... Try to reinstall them.nope theres no warning devices
i should actually clarify a bit about overclocking. ive never actually done it but ive opened up nTune overclocking manager several times but never actually done anything.
i'll try reinstalling motherboard drivers. thanks for help

I have a Dlink wireless router with the 108 MBPS Super G. I am interested in an HP laptop that has 125 HSM Speedbooster WLAN. Are these hardwares COMPATIBLE or are they only going to work at 54 mbps? Any advice?The HP 125 HSM/SpeedBooster is designed for full compatibility with 802.11b/g wireless networks (up to 125 Mbps).
More info here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BC2FV4/103-2452602-5640605?v=glance&n=541966

The D-Link wireless router should be no PROBLEM, but check your specific model.

More info here: http://www.dlink.com/products/category.asp?cid=1&sec=0

Dell

I have 2 memory slots with SDRAM install, two empty memory slots available that SDRAM will not fit in because there is only one place in the slot for a "cut out", which is right in the middle of the slot. I think that this is probably for DDR. Can I combine SDRAM and DDR? I would like to increase my RAM.
Thanks
Here is what I have now.
Computer Make: ECS
Computer Model: K7S5A
Computer Version: 1.0
Motherboard Make: ECS
Motherboard Model: K7S5A
Motherboard Version: 1.0
Processor: AMD Athlon 1.1Ghz
Memory: 4 slots: 128 MB, 128 MB, empty, emptyLearn all about your motherboard.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=K7S5A+

Google is your FRIEND and you can do it too!


Learn about memory here:

http://www.crucial.com/store/listmodel.asp?cat=RAM&mfr=Elite+Group+%28ECS%29&productline=Elite+Group+%28ECS%29+Motherboards&submit=GoI had a mainboard with both SDRAM and DDR slots. On that one, you could not use both at the same time.

I don't know much about AMD stuff, so I couldn't tell you what the bus speed on your processor is, or if upgrading to DDR memory would have any benefit for you.I think it is an either/or deal, but he needs to research his motherboard.Well... Being curious... I found some info on that board.

You can't run SDRAM and DDR at the same time.

Your processor has a 200 or 266 FSB, DDR 266 is the maximum the board can make use of and will perform better than the 133 SDRAM.

The author of a web page about your board says that DDR 400 will work in the board (at DDR 266 speed). Might be WISE to buy DDR 400 that could be reused if you upgrade or build a more modern system. Unless you can find a killer deal on some DDR 266

Maximum installed memory is 1GB (2 X 512 MB)

Of course, GX1_Man has a point... "Give a man a fish and he'll eat for a DAY... Teach a man to fish and he'll likely starve to DEATH before figuring out what a horrible teacher and fisherman I am!!!"
LOL!


I like your style, royphil!

Its finally time to update and replace my ten yr old computer. I need a computer that will have good speed, burn CD's, have a strong reliable modem for internet research and teaching, and plenty of memory to hold programs. Can I get this with a laptop, or do I have to go with the desktop? Pricewise, what will be a the approximate difference and what's the best laptop (if that's the choice). Maybe I should ask this last question in another forum, but should I go with xp or the new microsoft OS? Thanks DESKTOP
Price & OS is a matter for you.
W2K Rules Was that a question? Anyway, I would prefer to have the laptop, but need to know if it will meet my computing needs and what the price diff would be between a laptop that does what I need (if there is one) and a desktop that does what I need. Also, I would go with microsoft, (too old to learn anything new); but I'm wondering if their new OS is really something special or should I go with the old XP?What part of the ^above^ didn't you understand?drdelia..... Quote

Can I get this with a laptop, or do I have to go with the desktop?

As always, you computer help people are wonderful! Thank you so much. I feel that I now know enough about laptops to be able to make an educated decision when it is time to buy. What I have gathered, and please correct me if I'm wrong, is that a laptop can hold the apps that I need, with plenty of space, and then more, and with adequate speed. The upside is the fact that I can take my "homework" to work with me, and the downside is that laptops are more expensive to buy, and to upkeep if they "break", and to upgrade; and to keep batteries for. So I can balance the downside against the upside and see if the extra investment is worth it, so I can carry my work around. Many many thanks.

alright, so lets give ya a LITTLE RUNDOWN, ive finally gotten win98 installed onto my crappy computer which now dosent have the driver for the network card. So someone who knows absolutely nothing about computers opens up the side of the tower to see a whole lot of wires and chips...so do ya THINK i can find the network card to figure out what the name is so i can download it? ummm nope....do you guys know where i can find the network card, what it looks like and where i can go to download the drivers....thanks a million, brandeeBrandee-

See your other post. What we need to know is the make and model of your computer or motherboard. You can download and run (FREE) a program call Everest Home that will electronically name it also.

This page is in GERMAN, the program is not. Choose download 1. This is getting hard to find so SAVE THIS FILE!!!! You will need it again someday.

http://www.soft-ware.net/system/steuerung/benchmark/download.asp?code=bacb&pro=p04240&js=true&flvers=5&lang=en-us&alt=false&sw=1024&sh=768&br=IE&vers=6

Dlink WIRELESS router DI-624:I set WEP encryption at 64 bit with a 10-character password. My laptop (Win XP) has no problem with it. But when I TRY to use a USB adapter on an older desktop (Win 98SE eMachine Celeron 500), it connects to the router, but not the internet. This same set up has been able to connect to unsecured networks of the neighbors. What config or setting may I be missing?I ALWAYS make sure the connection is good in ALL regards before enabling WEP. I would SUGGEST this as a course of ACTION.

System was acting unstable for about a week randomly rebooting. Monitor was firing up after several tries however now I can't seem to get it to turn over at all. I've tried replacing most everything with spare parts (mainboard, hard drive, ram, power supply & video card) however don't have a spare processor for motherboard. tested all parts on other machines and they seem to work fine. Motherboard doesn't give any beeps or led signals indicating a problem. Monitor will turn on for separate system. Is there anything I forgot to check (besides processor)? Is there a simple test to check processor?

System Specs

P4 3.0 800FSB
Gigabyte 915 Pro Duo A Motherboard
2x 512 mb kingston ddr ram
160 WESTERN DIGITAL SATA Hard Drive
XFX Geforce 128mbit Video Card
Sony DVD Drive
400w PSU


Please help i'm going through severe Civ 4 withdrawls don't know if I can make it any longer before I resort to the humiliation of standing in line with gray haired grandmothers in line at Geek Squad.


Did you check the power outlet at the wall?Is the motherboard shorting out on the case somehow? Loose connections, a wayward screw lodged under it are things I have seen. Check for swollen or leaking capacitors on the MB.

Run RAM tester on the memory. Only use 1 stick and get free download at www.memtest86.com

If none of this WORKS, strip it to the BARE essentials - 1 RAM, video card, no drives andn see if it boots and runs for any lengh of time.

Let us know what you find.

checked case for shorts don't see anything strange. As dar as capacitors go can't really tell if any are swollen but not sure I know exactly was a abnormality would like in that department. All connections seem firm and secure. Really stuck as what to do. Stripped down version does the same thing (nothing).I would then take that processor to a computer repair shop and have them test it for you. It sounds like you have ruled out other possibilities, so that LEAVES CPU and MB. If the CPU is good, is the MB still under warranty?

Long story, please bear with me.

I tried to turn on my desktop after being gone for about 10 days of vacation. I heard things spin up, but nothing went out to video. The monitor was getting a signal, but nothing showed, not even the bios or self test. My computer is basically self built, a few years old. The BASIC specs are:

AMD XP 2500
512mb pc2700 RAM
350w psu
nVidia 64mb video card
2 hard drives
DVD burner
CD-rom
floppy
firewire card
onboard audio, lan

OK, so first I thought it might be the video card, so I pulled out an old motherboard and processor, put in the card, attached the psu and it fired up fine. OK, so now it seems like a motherboard or processor problem, so I bought a new mb with the same socket and just put in the old cpu...same thing happened as before, power comes on, fans spin, nothing out to video. OK, so I bought a new processor, same specs, AMD XP 2500 Socket A. Same thing happened. I tried changing psu, and even installed all the new components in a brand new case (in case there was a short or something). Once I started swapping components, the only things I had hooked up were the psu, video card, pwr switch, and CPU/fan. I disconnected all the other peripherals. The only things I have not swapped out are the video card or the ram...but it I don't know why the video card would work with the old slot A motherboard and not with the motherboard it has been working in for about 2 years. Also, I know the monitor is getting a handshake from the card because it goes from 'no signal' when not PLUGGED in to a blank screen and orange led. I'm tempted to just put it all together and bring it to the "geek squad". Any ideas??? Thanks in advance.When you tried it with the old mobo &AMP; it worked, was that using the same monitor?
The 'handshake may be there but that doesn't mean the monitor works.Well... It has to be the monitor or the memory... you tried everything else!!!

Did you strip down the test systems too much? Not sure if all computers will do anything with no hard drive attached.Quote

When you tried it with the old mobo & it worked, was that using the same monitor?
The 'handshake may be there but that doesn't mean the monitor works.

i just bought a NEW RAM module for my dell dimension 3000,when i put it in the computer it did 1-3-1-1 beeps and the comp wouldnt start

please HELPTHE memory chips ARNT inserted correctly ,, RESEAT themhow?
plz explainhttp://www.pcmech.com/show/memory/87/

and this one

http://www.computermemoryupgrade.net/ram-upgrade-issues.html <---- study this site and make sure you have bought the right RAM module as well

reseating them means just pulling them out and putting them back in (making sure it was done correctly)

yea im sure i got the right kind and i reseated it and it didnt workThen you did not get the right kind probably.

Go o www.crucial.com and see the exact SPECIFICATIONS for what you need. Compare with what you got. Not just the speed like DDR3200 or whatever - ALL the specs.

Crucial guarantees compatibility and has a lifetime guarantee and quick delivery. I always consider that worh a few bucks.

Try the new stick by itself and see what happens.well we are gunna need some more infomation then. What are the specs on the RAM module you bought ,, dont worry bout the pc i was able to look up the Dell Dimension 3000 specs

Hi everyone,
I purchased my COMPUTER 3 months ago and am using my previous monitor. I am running WINDOWSXP on my system. The windowsXP STARTUP screen begins to load and then my monitor goes blank. I've tried STARTING in safe mode aswell. Can anyone help :-?

I sent an email after I found out about the forum on this site.
Here's my problem.

My eMachines computer of about 4 years, never turned back on during my finals week, which was about 4 weeks AGO. At first, I opened up the computer and cleaned out the dust on the CPU cooling FAN area and the rest of the motherboard. I turned the computer back on and it was good till I accidently unplugged the power plug on power supply. Now, it will never turn on again. The power supply still works and powers..but nothing boots up to the other devices such as the monitor and the keyboard and everything else! The motherboard lights up and the CPU appears to be running. So I decide to go back home and replace it with a new motherboard and a new Processor chip and more MEMORY. I want a brand new computer, except keep my hard drives. I set up everything with the new parts and connect with with my Hard Drives. Guess what? That doesn't work either. Nothing boots up or communicates as a normal functioning computer. Same problem with new and old hardware. Hmm? Do I have the computer curse? I need a functioning computer by this weekend because I go back to school! Please help. I researched online and talked to computer techinicians at Circuit City...I don't want to bring an actual broken computer for repairs? I don't know anymore what to do. Tired of wasting and spending money. I hate computers. But I'm better at knowing about them compared anyone else I know that doesn't have a computer education.


Now. Here's the short run.

Hmm, same problem with old and new hardware?
Hmm, no one can straight up answer my problem after my research?
The computer power starts. Just doesn't boot up as a full computer. The monitor and keyboard receives nothing from an operating system that can't appear because the hardware won't tell me what's wrong!
Hmm, no beep codes..which is related to every common problem of computer boot up. But not mine because no one can figure it out.
The problem is not the power supply. I will GET an updated one with my new motherboard and CPU in a new computer case. But the problem is, why won't it start up? It wouldn't start up in my old eMachines model with the old motherboard and stuff. I'd like to know about this mystery because I rebuild my computer. MAKING sure it is a real computer instead of just show and tell.

Here's the stats.

The ATX power supply is at 250 Watts.
The new motherboard I bought is an RS400-A.
The new processor is Intel Pentium 4 Processor 630 at the speed of 3 Gigahertz.
The old processor is AMD Athlon Processor XP 2000+.
The old motherboard, I have no clue and I don't think it matters.

Is it the power supply? It failed to boot up on the old motherboard. And it sure won't boot up on the new motherboard since the new one kinda needs at least 400 Watt power supply instead of 250 watts. But it still looks really bad.
It's kind of a rambling story, but it wasn't working, so you replaced everything, but the drives, and it still doesn't work. You know the power supply is good because some lights come on, but....

I would try a known good power supply in that machine BUT all the components must be connected correctly, and function properly, and this may or may not be the case. Since it sounds like you are in over your head already, I would say call a geeky friend over to have a look or better take it to a repair shop.

Sometimes you just need another pair of eyes.Just because some lights come on doesn't mean the power supply is good. Need to test with a different one. Might the new motherboard require an additional power plug that your power supply doesn't have? What's the wattage of the power supply? What kind of new board / processor did you install?

Are you absolutely sure everything's hooked up right?

I have a CD drive that is 5 YEARS old and recently for no reason at all it wont eject. Well it does eject but it gets stuck before it can come out. Usually I have to slip my finger nail on the side and puch the COVER to the left right or down before I rehit the eject button then it comes out. Once it comes out sometimes but not always there is a ticking sound. The ticking sound SOUNDS like when something is stuck andit hits against soemething. This happens when the CD is spinning inside. The CD drive still reconises the CD but sometimes during installation it will just keep spinning the light stop blinking and then it says can not copy... PLEASE insert CD drive and HIT Ok to continue. When I hit Ok nothing happens. I have to eject then let the CD go back in again. Let it spin down then hit the Ok button then it will find the file and continue with installation.

Any opinions?Time to go to the cdrom shop for a new one I think mate. Or in the meantime, try using this little script that Sidewinder developed:
_______________________________________ _

Set WMP = CreateObject("WMPlayer.ocx")
Set colCDROMS = WMP.CDROMCollection

If colCDROMS.Count > -1 Then
For i = 0 to colCDROMS.Count - 1
colCDROMS.Item(i).Eject
Next
End If

_______________________________________ ___


Copy this text into Notepad and save it with a .vbs extension, like OpenCD.vbs. Then just double click that file in explorer and the CD tray should pop open. Ultimate geekdom.

I am having TROUBLE getting my computer to work. First of all non of the cd drives have woked in the past few months. When the data cables were plugged in the cd drives would not open, but when they were unplugged they would open. Recently the computer would cycle through the windows loading screen and would never actually LOAD windows, it would just go to the motherboard screen to the windows screen back to the motherboard screen. Now its newest thing to do is it will try to load for about 3 seconds it will flash a blue screen and start over. I video tapped and ZOOMED and this is what the screen says " A problem with windows has been detected and windows has been shut down to prevent damage to your computer

UNMOUNTABLE_BOOT_VOLUME


any suggestions would be great.
Oh and i have a new motherboard but none of the drives seem to be working when i plug them data cables in but they whave POWER and spin when the data cable is unplugged, so i have no idea what to do.

again any help would be great
[emailprotected]Did it ever work correctly since you replaced the motherboard? Have you ever DONE computer surgery before? Tell us about your components and operating system and more pertinennt details as our psychic is off sick today. No the motherboard is one that i bought a while ago because it was on sale i just cracked the seal today and i have done computer surgery before so i know the proper way of treating all the equipment. If possiable i would like to use my orignal motherboard but here is everything i have in my case at the moment

Intel pentuim 4 chip
512 ddr ram
abit motherboard model P4RC350
Lg Cd burner
And i am not sure what kind of hard drive is in the computer


I am running windows XPDoes this help?

http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;en-us;Q297185

i have a home NETWORK of 4 computers, INCLUDING a server, and a router that worked until recently. the router's adapter cracked and stopped working alltogether. so now, until i can buy a new adapter, i thought i'd make a direct connection from the server to one of the computers for internet traffic. the server's an xp professional second edition, and the other computer is a windows 98. well, i TOOK the cable that ran up to the router from the server and i put it in my second computer. my xp system says that the network cable is unplugged and none of the network cards has any blinking lights, to show that they are connected. so, what could be wrong? could my router's adapter's malfunction have fried my cards? are there different utp CABLES for computer to computer links? help is higly appreciated.You need a crossover cable for computer to computer links. Same plugs wired DIFFERENTLY.

I added a STICK of 256MB RAM in the 2ed position. The BOIS picks it up BUT Windows XP Pro CRASHES just before sigin. They are both PC133. So if anyone could that would be great and it will save me alot of money in the LONG run.



thanks,Not all PC133 is the same.You can get a mismatch, especially using newer RAM on older machines.

Go to www.crucial.com and see what you should have gotten and compare with what you got. Crucial offers guaranteed compatibility, lifetime warranty and free or cheap SPEEDY shipping.

Post your motherboard or computer make/model if you wish. The other RAM may be improperly seated, and may even function fine by itself,but not with your existing RAM. You can check that out.

You may also want to test each stick individually for free and then both together with the download at www.memtest86.com if the sticks are truly compatible.

Something strange happened after I changed some BIOS settings for fan management. Immediately after the change, the computer will start to boot up (harddrive spins, fans turn on, leds on case and dvd's turn on), this happens for about a 1/2 SECOND, then a beep for 1/2 second, then the computer turns off. There was no video to the monitor, maybe because it shut down so quick. I knew the problem was the bios change, but at the time, I didn't know how to fix it.

I tried combinations of unplugging and swapping fan connections(2 for case(second is in chipset connection), 1 for PSU, 1 for CPU, heatsink for chipset). No luck.

I was told to reset the CMOS. I did this with the same problem.

I then removed the Zalman FanMate2 controller from the cpu cooler. I did this and the computer boots up (fans spin, harddrives spin, floppy drive accepts a disk, but now I have no video output(probably from resetting the BIOS). I confirmed the monitor is ok. I tried a second video card with the same problem. I disconnected all peripheral equipment(cables, FDD, HDD, DVD) except for power supply, memory, and video card with the same problem. I reset the BIOS with no luck.

Any ideas on how to fix this? Why would resetting BIOS cause no video output. If BIOS is the problem, if I could get see the BIOS, I could fix the BIOS settings. My video card has a S-video output which I could plug into a TV, but wouldn't that have the same problem?

Also, when I fix this, is there any utility to print out or export a copy of the BIOS settings to floppy or cd?Does your mainboard have a built-in video adapter? My guess in that case would be that clearing the CMOS activated the on-board video. Best way to deal with that would be to unplug your video card with the computer unplugged from power and plug the monitor into the on-board video. Then, disable the on-board video in the BIOS, replace the video card and plug back into it.

If no on-board video... I'm stumped for now...

Good luck!!!NO, the mobo has onboard audio only. The mobo is a ASUS sock-a atx a7v133a via133a with sound.Do you have an old PCI video card of any type, low end is fine, to use to resolve this?Just tried the PCI video card idea with no luck.

The repair shop removed all the components and tested them on another computer and they were fine. They said the mobo is bad by process of elimination. I find it hard to believe that changing a fan power management BIOS setting would do this. I also find it harder to believe the probability of the mobo going partially bad at this exact moment.

Another idea, I replaced 3 plastic standoffs (which were too short and thus useless) with a metal standoff and a paper washer. A FRIEND said he has seen strange operation when you have poor GROUNDING. I'm going to check all standoffs and remove the ones with the paper washer. The paper washer was used because that area of the mobo does not have a metal ring. I'm also going to swap PSU's, as the PSU case is what provides the ground. I'm also going to swap the case. Both the case and PSU are new. They have been working fine since Christmas. If that doesn't work, I give up.You are definitely on the right track with your CRITICAL thinking skills. I have seen motherboards grounding out do MANY strange things. Bad MOBO is a possibility too.You are proceding in the correct manner.Answer found Kind off

The first tech at the computer shop determined that the mobo was bad, even though he ignored the fact of the possibility of bad/poor grounds, abnormal standoffs w/ paper washers, dirty contacts, a unique cpu fan, and my telling the details of how the original problem happened. He just ignored the facts. And I don't think he removed the mobo from the case and PSU, like he should have. You can't blame something until it is 100% completely isololated.

I complained, told the second tech to check the grounds and completely seperate the board from the PSU and case. He completely disassembled the board removing it from the case and reassembled it. While doing this, he found the memory slot to have some crud in it. Don't know how because I just vaccumed the board during X-mas. Maybe I'm a poor cleaner He didn'ts say he cleaned the AGP slot, but I'll assume he did. Same problem, the computer immediately shuts down.

He then swapped the CPU fan with a regular fan. (I did this myself, but I didn't clean any of the slots.) He was then able to boot, found, and changed the cpu fan BIOS setting back to default, which should have already happened with the multiple CMOS resets. The Zalman fan was reinstalled. Everything works now.

So in summary, dirty slots, non-clearing CMOS, and a fan voltage that caused the resets were the problem. I think the possible poor ground (we'll never know) was a red herring, but it did force a second look.

There's nothing worse than not knowing what really fixed it. :-?

Symptoms: About 3 or 4 times a day, when opening an application, my hard drive activity light will stay solid (on) for about 15-20 seconds causing the computer to freeze for that amount of time. Usually the light will flash quickly when there is "normal" activity. This has been happening for the last few months.

What I've already tried: Defragging hard drives (which helped a little), Spyware check, Virus check and DISC error check.

My Specs: Windows XP, Pentium 4 3.4Ghz, 1024mb ram, C: Drive - Seagate 250GB D: Drive - Maxtor 80GB
(each hard drive is less than 50% full)

If anyone knows what might be causing these freezes, I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Have you made any changes to your system just before this started?

FlameCheck your running processes. There may be somehing happening in he background you are unaware of and don't want. What are you using for spyware/adware/virus protection?Quote

Check your running processes. There may be somehing happening in he background you are unaware of and don't want. What are you using for spyware/adware/virus protection?

12706 5:49:10 PM vsmon.exe:1800 READ D:\aatemp\HOMEDESIGNSUITEPLATINUM-1-WIN-US2.EXE SUCCESS Offset: 851968 Length: 32768
12707 5:49:10 PM vsmon.exe:1800 READ D:\aatemp\HOMEDESIGNSUITEPLATINUM-1-WIN-US2.EXE SUCCESS Offset: 884736 Length: 32768
12708 5:49:10 PM vsmon.exe:1800 READ D:\aatemp\HOMEDESIGNSUITEPLATINUM-1-WIN-US2.EXE SUCCESS Offset: 917504 Length: 32768
12709 5:49:10 PM vsmon.exe:1800 READ D:\aatemp\HOMEDESIGNSUITEPLATINUM-1-WIN-US2.EXE SUCCESS Offset: 950272 Length: 32768
12710 5:49:10 PM vsmon.exe:1800 READ D:\aatemp\HOMEDESIGNSUITEPLATINUM-1-WIN-US2.EXE SUCCESS Offset: 983040 Length: 32768
12711 5:49:10 PM vsmon.exe:1800 READ D:\aatemp\HOMEDESIGNSUITEPLATINUM-1-WIN-US2.EXE SUCCESS Offset: 1015808 Length: 32768
12712 5:49:10 PM vsmon.exe:1800 READ D:\aatemp\HOMEDESIGNSUITEPLATINUM-1-WIN-US2.EXE SUCCESS Offset: 1048576 Length: 32768
12713 5:49:10 PM vsmon.exe:1800 READ D:\aatemp\HOMEDESIGNSUITEPLATINUM-1-WIN-US2.EXE SUCCESS Offset: 1081344 Length: 32768
12714 5:49:10 PM vsmon.exe:1800 READ D:\aatemp\HOMEDESIGNSUITEPLATINUM-1-WIN-US2.EXE SUCCESS Offset: 1114112 Length: 32768
12715 5:49:10 PM vsmon.exe:1800 READ D:\aatemp\HOMEDESIGNSUITEPLATINUM-1-WIN-US2.EXE SUCCESS Offset: 1146880 Length: 32768

yesterday I installed a hardware that makes that you have four extra USB-ports (i push one in your computer and the hardware piece gives you for extra hardware ports (I can't REALLY name it, because my english is quitte bad) and i installed the software that was on the hardware piece, and now my computer can't boot anymore.... a huge problem.... i can't even use safe modus because it stops ad the beginning screen were you can read: press "delete" for BIOS options... can somebody help me pleasTake it out and reboot. If that doesn't fix it, use system restore to go back a few days when everything worked.Quote

Take it out and reboot. If that doesn't fix it, use system restore to go back a few days when everything worked.

ap the F8 key several times before the Windows logo. That should get you to sagfe mode where you can use the restore.

hen you must take out the CMOS battery for 10 minutes, or clear the CMOS by a dip switch or jumper on the motherboard if present. Be sure and unplug it from wall first.

Reinsert the battery and power on. It should be reset to defaults. You may have to tweak a few things, but it should function.

Did you reseat the RAM or do any other work inside the case when in there?

Is the problem on a laptop? Checkyour computer manual or the manufacturer web site to find out how to reset the CMOS in that case. What make and model are we talking about?

That is correct - the round battery on the motherboard.

i have a logic lcd monitor/tv which i have used on my desk top pc, it worked ok on 640 x 420.

i have recently aquired a laptop that is faster, but has no screen. as i live in a v small room i decided to LINK the two up. but i cant GET the screen to work properly. iv hooked the the lap top up to an crt monitor and it works fine.

i then suspected that it was a problem my peticular lt so i tried another and got exactly the same problem.

this is what i know

desk top + lcd= fine
lap top+crt= fine

lap top +lcd= about 2" of black down left hand side and about 3" of the bottom lost and icon names hard to make out, it also looks very pixally

Now it seems to me that lap tops are missing some thing that desk tops have in the desplay options,

Am i right? ifso then what is it and where can i find it ? If not then what should i do?

Quote

i have a logic lcd monitor/tv which i have used on my desk top pc, it worked ok on 640 x 420.

i have recently aquired a laptop that is faster, but has no screen. as i live in a v small room i decided to link the two up. but i cant get the screen to work properly. iv hooked the the lap top up to an crt monitor and it works fine.

i then suspected that it was a problem my peticular lt so i tried another and got exactly the same problem.

this is what i know

desk top + lcd= fine
lap top+crt= fine

lap top +lcd= about 2" of black down left hand side and about 3" of the bottom lost and icon names hard to make out, it also looks very pixally

Now it seems to me that lap tops are missing some thing that desk tops have in the desplay options,

Am i right? ifso then what is it and where can i find it ? If not then what should i do?

[smiley=vrolijk_26.gif]Are DVD players SET to regions and if so how do you change the settings. I KNOW you can add software that will ALLOW you to play DVD's from another region but can the settings in the player be CHAGED? [smiley=dankk2.gif]Depends on the player. Does yours have that option?ojas251....... Further to what GX1_Man has said ....... Be AWARE that most players will only allow the region to be changed like 3 or 4 times.


dl65

Any responses on the Dell forum yet?GX1_Man......
http://forums.us.dell.com/supportforums/board/message?board.id=dim_other&message.id=264253#M264253

Did have several today .......it looks as if the best FIX would be a new mobo.

dl65 Since it's a Dell, you've got to get it from them, but I'm sure you know that. I would be CURIOUS what they CHARGE for a replacement MB for that model.

I have attempted do all the things I have found to do with no luck. I STILL can't in. I have taken the battery out for 10 minutes+ and that has not helped. I have an older Packard Bell computer that we got in 1997. Any other suggestions?Was it unplugged from the wall at the time? What are you trying to accomplish?Are there any pins or a jumper near the battery that can be shorted (with the power off and battery out) to clear the CMOS?

Maybe removing the battery for longer with the computer unplugged would help.I predict it was left plugged in. Scary. Yes, the computer was unplugged. from the back. What I am trying to accomplish is to be able to use the computer. Can't boot when no password will work.There MAY be a a jumper setting on the motherboard or a dip switch. Have you checked for any support documents on the web site or e-mailed them?

Usually removing the battery as you report will do it. You may need to LEAVE it out longer. This is not a lapttop is it?No, this is not a laptop. Yes, I have also inquired with priorityonesupport, have not gotten a response yet.Leave the battery out overnight and check again. Was this originally your computer? are there any switches on the motherboard? What is the model #?Yes, this was originally my computer. I will take the battery out again, overnight. The model #R500. I don't see any switches.The other possibility would be jumpers on the moherboard, but no battery should do this as well. Let us know. Hi........just to let you know I got the puter up and running. I ended up leaving the battery out for 2 days and when I turned it on I held the shift key down.
Thank you for all your advice and help!!!TWO days, huh?

Glad you are up and running. Actually I guess it would still be considered 1 DAY...24 hour period of time. Hey....I can't help it I'm a blond. Ooops..is that ok to say?

I am RUNNING Win 98 and my mouse froze and then my laptop shut down. SINCE then when I attempt to boot I get a message saying "operating SYSTEM not found". Help!!!

Don

doncfraser.... Can you provide more info ......for EXAMPLE is the mouse an EXTERNAL one or the built in mouse . How old is you laptop ? Have you had any viruses recently . How old and what type oh hard drive do you have ?

dl65 Thanks, it is a 4-5 yo Sony Vios I believe it has a 256k Hd with a mouse pad only.

Don

I am building a new intel based system, and have run into a number of problems.

1. When I turn the power supply on, the system boots up, as opposed to when I hit the Power On button.

2. When the system begins to boot, it stalls out at the Intel splash screen.

3. No power seems to be getting to the dvd drive.

Any ideas what could be causing these problems? I'd appreciate any input I could get.f4mine .......
Quote

1. When I turn the power supply on, the system boots up, as opposed to when I hit the Power On button.

No power seems to be getting to the dvd drive

And that fixed the power button not working as well?

dl65 is going high tech!

Got a Dell Dimension 8400 (p4 3ghz, 512mb ram, win xp with sp2) and thought I'd throw in Samsung SH-W162C DVD/RW.
Got the drive in but the thing don't wanna know. It flashes it's green light a bit too smugly, and won't open wide when I press the button.
additionally, When i get to my computer, the DVD drive doesn't APPEAR. I'm fairly sure it's there in system devices
And, when i turn the computer on, i get a MESSAGE, Drive 4 not found: Parallel ATA, PATA-O (PRI IDE Master) (eh?) and I have to F1 to get into windows

I looked inside the box again, and double checked the IDE cables (the flat grey ones, right?) and there're ok as are the power cables. I switched the DVDROM (which came with machine) from CS to slave and assigned the DVDR/W to master.
The DVDROM is now my E: drive and my D: is blank.

Any ideas?Soome Dell's are very particular about needing all drives on CS. Your's may be one. You also have to go into the setup F2 and make sure it is seen there, before you can even expect it to work in Windows. If the drive doesn't open the power cable is not in correctly or it is a dead drive.

So let us know.I was wondering about CS, I was told it was outdated.
Could you walk me through the BIOS step? I'm rather partial to avoiding BIOS LIKE the plague unless I have someone to hold my hand
F2 when it boots. Arrow down to drives, and the ones present should be set to auto. The primary slave (if there is only one hard drive) should be set to none. R arrow key to change the values.
ok, got both CDrw and DVDrw set to CS

in bios -> drives,

drive 0 SATA - 0 is the hard drive and that's on
Drives 1-3 SATA 1-3 are all off
Drive 4 PATA - 0 (master) is on but drive ID unknown
Drive 5 PATA - 1 (slave) is off

do i turn Drive 4 to off?Try turning Drive 5 to ON. If there is an option for auto, you will probably have best luck with 4 andn 5 set to auto.

How can I transfer data between a computer with a fried PROCESSER and a new computer? Thanks!TAKE out the hard DRIVE and CONNECT it as a SLAVE to another machine long enough to copy off the data.

I have been using OE without a problem. Recently, if I receive a hotlink imbedded in a email and click it, IE doesn't open. If I right click the hotlink and "copy Shortcut" then paste it in IE address bar I can open the website. I run AdAware/Spybot/AVG religiously. The only change was I ran "WINDOW Registry Repair pro" and cleaned up several problems. Since I thought that was the problem, I restored the backup and the problem still exists. I am running 98SE on a desktop.You cannot open a new Internet Explorer window or NOTHING occurs after you click a linkA IE window doesn't open. When I click the hotlink, my HD sounds like it is looking for info to open a window but it never does. I thought it was opening IE in the background but that wasn't true. If I paste the hotlink into my address bar in IE it works but I have to open IE window manually.Cut and paste this:

http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?kbid=281679I ran the procedure at the MS site (regsvr32 *****.dll) and they all worked except shell32.dll When I EXECUTED that file, I received the following error:

Shell32.dll was loaded but the DllRegisterServer entry point was not found.

DllRegisterServer may not be exported, or a corrupt version of shell32.dll may be in memory. Consider using Pview to detect or remove it.

I don't know how to use Pview??? I have another computer with XP on it. If I copy that shell32.dll file and add it to this computer that is running 98SE will it work?I can't imagine why it would. Different OPERATING systems, and that is one the things that make them different.

Hi, I have a usb mouse that I use on my laptop. However it was in storage with some of my other things for the last 6 weeks, and now when i connect it to my computer, it doesn't detect it. i have tried restarting and that doesn't work. Does anyone know how to FIX this problem?

What operating system? If not 2000 or XP you may need to re-install DRIVERS. I WOULD try another mouse to see if i is your mouse or your computer that has the problem.it's WINDOWS xp...everything i find in the net is about windows 95, but that's not me.Try the suggestion about another mouse.

i got a pretty old computer...pcv-rx860 and im plannin to get a new video card for it, a good one i that i think i found that would work is ati ATI Radeon 9550 Video Card. would this be a good choice or is there a better one i can get for under $150. help plz ^^Miss Cleo is out today. Please post all the specs that you can find on that machine - CPU, RAM, O/S, power supply, etc. and etc. for an appropriate answer.

We could guess, but let's not. sorry
-----------------------
Processor Intel Pentium 4 2.4 GHz
Installed Memory 512 MB (DDR SDRAM)
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition
Recommended Use Home Use
Processor
Processor TYPE Intel Pentium 4
Processor Speed 2.4 GHz
Processor Manufacturer Intel
MAX Processors Qty. 1
Motherboard
Bus Speed 533 MHz
Video Output Interface AGP 4x
Memory
RAM Technology DDR SDRAM
Installed RAM 512 MB
Max Supported RAM 1.5 GB
Installed Cache Memory 512 KB
I'm assuming this is a SONY, so you only have an AGP 4x slot in it. Cards are backward compatible, so no problem there, but the power supply is probably not huge. The one you picked is fine. It certainly is not the BEST gaming card, but it should work OK.

You might want to search for AGP 8x cards at www.newegg.com with 128 meg memory. It will list them all in order of price, lowest to highest. You can also read reviews from actual users of each.4x also works with 8x cards even tho some cards are not 4x?
edit: also i have been thinking geforce 6600gt agp.
and which video card do you think would work best for my comp?I think your computer has an AGP x8 slot.
You may want to check your PSU Watts too.Isck - I mentioned that the AGP is backwards compatible.

Fed - It is a 4x slot, per this listing:

http://hardware.gamespot.com/Sony-VAIO-Digital-Studio-PCV-RX860-3235-S-1-2ooo thx
edit: btw would GDDR3 work on computers that are DDR SDRAM, no right?I think your computer has an AGP x8 slot.

OOPS! Quote

ooo thx
edit: btw would GDDR3 work on computers that are DDR SDRAM, no right?

Thanks again for all of the help. I even have the correct driver for the Ethernet card too even THOUGH I don't use it. Things were so much easier when I only used DOS!!!! Of course it was basically just a glorified calculator then!!!!Not WANTING to state the obvious but make SURE you have the lead plugged into the right socket on the card, does it have two?Yes, thanks we're good with that!!!! I think it is a bad MODEM, but at least I can address it with my software now and it ANSWERS AT commands (except ATDT!!!). Thanks again for all of the help.

So, the first steps to boot up a computer. I did my research. The BIOS does not show up! On my old motherboard and my new motherboard. My old motherboard failed because, I thought was a power failure, but could have been a hardware. Like I cleaned up all the DUST on the motherboard and it won't start again. The new motherboard, it just won't start. Nothing wrong with it. Same problem on all motherboards.

Sorry, I keep on forgetting to put on my system details.

The old motherboard is about 4 years old and i'ts a LVDRMM or something that eMAchines 2080 used BACK in 2002.

The new one I remember. It's a RS 630 or something like that. I'm on someone's computer and I don't remember it. I'll check back later. This new motherboard also has a new Processor..the Intel Pentium 4 630? All these names confuse me.

I did more research. I think the old motherboard initially shut down becuase it was a hardware failure. The BIOS battery could have failed becuase prior to the shut down..my computer clock has been way behind. Research tells me that the BIOS handles the system clock. If the system clock or computer clock has been off...the BIOS of CMOS was off too. Ok, I know that the old motherboard was screwy with all that dust and no updates because i didn't even know any of that BIOS business. I just buy a new computer. Now i'm tired of WASTING money.

But, wha'ts up with the new motherboard?

Here's another thing. My family bought another eMachines computer the 5020? I don't remember. But the first time we plugged it..the BIOS wouldn't boot the computer. I thought I had the computer curse. If you noticed with my bad luck with 2 other motherboards. Anyways, but the next morning..my sister plugged the new computer in and it worked. So for this new motherboard..I guess I'll have it plugged in again and again over night or something. This is not funny!If it is a problem on all motherboards, the problem is you, obviously.

Do you have any successful experiennce with doing this?

If you want to post many details about the system and the problem we will try to assist, but Miss CLEO is off today, and you have given us nothing to work with.



go back and do more research,,,
find out if your current power supply can power your new motherboard

and one more thing if you want to keep the old one going ,, CHANGE the cmos battery for a new one ,, itll cost u a cpl of dollars.

and when you change the battery clear your cmos settings (look for the jumpers on the motherboard)

hope ive steered you in the right direction.

hey you gotta start somewhere and thats exactly where i started

I need to setup a videowall with a size of 2 meters by 2 meters (ROUGHLY 79"), so I guess I will be NEEDING 8 to 10 monitors (PROBABLY crt, because those still have higher resolution). The system will be displaying Data most of the time but it may display video from time to time

Does anybody has an idea of the hardware/software needed for this?

Thankshttp://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/setup/learnmore/multimonitor.mspx
read this^^

and this ,, this one is about a video wall and the hardware required
http://www.dynye.com/DATAPATH.htm

what you need is 2 or 3 of those 4 port graphics cardsThanks, that was a complete answer (INCLUDING the procedure for SETTING them up using XP).

Thanks Again

Had this issue few months back and was fixed by someone emailing me 6 files related to sis7018. Computer verifies that I have these already installed cannot RESOLVE loss of audio, DID A RECENT MASS DELETE OF UNIMPORTANT FILES ALSO RESTORED THEM. Computer also has plenty of rundll.32 errors as well as lexplore. :-/

PLEASE HELP email is [emailprotected]dove...... the sis7018 would be drivers for your sound card ........
It almost sounds like ..... you have SOMEHOW lost the drivers.
Which operating SYSTEM are you using ?
You MIGHT try D/L this file and installing it ...it will provide a lot of info about your system which will assist in resolving your issue.
http://dl.euronet-bz.com/everest/everesthome220.zip
It is in English .......

dl65
Hi

The guy that was helping me had me download Everest I don't know if I still have it or not but I can't understand a thing on the page you sent me or find the English version. :-/
The help page I visited told me to delete the devices but there are so many of them x-ed out I am afraid to do that and am not sure if I delete each file or the whole audio device title and all, I need someone to walk me through this step by step. The files are not gone they might not be in the proper place who knows but I definately have the ones I need. I don't understand why my video device has so many not working either never had that before until I started doing this random deleting but I restored everything hmmmm. dove..... Ok , lets go bck to square one ...... What operating system are you using ?

BTW ..... I tested that link before I sent it to ....and it should have D/L the file ..... I just went back and tried it again and the link has been changed .....

I will send you another utility which will give you similar info on your system ..... PC Wizard 2005 ... http://www.pcworld.com/downloads/file_description/0,fid,25444,00.asp

dl65 Thanks for the help!! I downloaded the pcwizard and just when it was proccessing to load on my computer it froze and I had to completely shut the thing off nothing else would work. I went to see if the program is there and of course it was not completely installed...just trying to let you know what is taking so long over here....will try it againdid translation from italian not much help. Did search on Everest edition found the home edition is no longer being offered but did find it still exists in geeks.com so I do have that now........operating system is winme. Computer is doing ALOT of freezing!!if you can afford to upgrade from win ME to win 2000 or XP (if your pc will allow) do that. otherwise go back into your device manager and uninstall all the devices that have that red x next to them and reboot cause the drivers are all on your pc still.I've heard it's suicide to update to xp better to just dump the puter and get a new one that said, the computer I have now is a hard drive taken from a HP and put into a Vpremier (don't know how I did it) so it's a miracle it's even working lol. The sound is the main issue I am having right now so I will just try to address that...i will delete everything and be back thanks much !heh its suicide to stay with ME ,, i had it once,, lasted no longer than 2 days on my machine before i formatted and reinstalled 98SE

in my opinion ME was rushed out by microsoft trying to cash in on the Y2K bug (um what Y2K bug)deleted what I could red x still showing on

Video Codecs- deleted everything under it how do I restore what should be there
Audio Codecs- has microsoft PCM converter thats it but audio is now working. I found the drivers in a file I restored to the desktop

However, Windows media player will not open says, internal application error and I doubt I have video now...sighDon't know how I did it but everything appears to be working (appears) I reinstalled windows media player and the video is working as well....

Thanks for your help!

Hi
I'm getting a BLUE SCREEN on startup after several attempts to INSTALL xp, all is good when booting from cd then when it reboots for the first time off the hd i GET the blue screen with the following:

Memory1_Initialization_Failed

*** STOP: 0x00000065 (0x00000000,0x00000000,0x00000000,0x00000000)

I've tried new replacement parts as follows:

Motherboard
Memory
Graphics Card

Only thing I can think of now is the memory CONTROLLER on the CPU?

Any help appreciated

James

Ok, so I'm building this system and so far I have memory, floppy drive, CD drive, HARD drive (SATA), processor, video card. I have nothing on the hard drive not even an operating system. Whenever I power up, it does it's usual boot buit then I get a message "NTLDR missing. Press Ctrl+Alt+Dlt to reboot". What does this mean.

I ALSO can't get Windows XP Pro setup to recognize my SATA hard drive. It just says it couldn't detect a hard drive. What can be wrong? I setup my hard drive right.You get that message because no operating system is loaded OR there is a non-system floppy in the drive. Which applies to you?

You have to have SATA drivers on a floppy to make the HD be recognized. It may be the floppy in the drive?What is your boot order in the BIOS? It should be CDROM first, then floppy, then HD.I have WIndows XP on a CD-ROM and the setup program for the hard drive on a floppy. I don't remember, I think having both in while loading Windows didn't work. Is there another reason why it won't work?An XP CDROM is bootable. The only thing you need a floppy for right now is to load the SATA drivers (F6 durirng setup).

Get that floppy out of the drive to boot!!!!

Is that a legal XP CD by the way? I did the F6 thing but when it tries to load the drivers to says "Could not find txtsetup.oem". Now I really don't know what to do.Is that the driver disk you got with the hard drive? Do you see that file on it? What make and model is it?It didn't come with drivers, I bought OEM. I can't find the drivers online either. Just programs to setup the hard drive. I'm stuck...Well, Miss Cleo is out today so we can't figure out your hard drive manufacturer or model that way....

How about if you post that info and we'll look around after you do a google search to see if you can find it?Ok, so I tried downloading the SATA drivers for my motherboard and loading that in Windows setup. It said it load the drivers but when I got to the SECOND step of setup, it still said that Windows couldn't detect a hard drive. MAYBE I'm not loading it correctly? How can it SAY it loaded the drivers but still not recognize it?Is it recognized in the BIOS/setup? Windows will not be able to access it until the machine does properly. How are all other drives setup and jumpered?

Is this a completely new build?Yes, it is recognized in the BIOS setup and yes it's a completely new build. Maybe since it's a new build I shouldn't have gotten OEM?

Maybe if you explain some of the jumper terms to me...

What does SCC (spread spetrum clocking) enabled do?
Does it matter which way to jumper faces? Because one side is just plastic and the other has some metal on it. Does it make a difference?

I was just using my computer, playing a few GAMES, before my speakers started emmitting very loud static.

I closed all my applications but it was still there. I plugged in my headphones into the Line Out and got the same static.

Even though the sound works, it's accompanyed by a loud blaring, changing static noise, and I have really no idea what to do.

Any help guys?Re-boot it.Holy moley it WORKED! Thanks man.You're welcome.
One of your games has had a moment, you may want to check the game site for patches.There should be some NAME for this phenomena. Quote

There should be some name for this phenomena.

When I PLUG my IPOD into my computer I get the error message of "HIGH SPEED USB DEVICE PLUGGED INTO NON HIGH SPEED USB HUB" What can I do or is there anything that can be DONE. The strange thing is it WORKED fine for some downloads then then when I attempted to download more music I got the error message. HelpWhat speed USB is on your computer? You didn't say, and Miss Cleo is out, but apparently it sees it as USB 1.1 while the iPod likes 2.0