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OK. Is there a way I can set up my IDE 40gb hardrive to run only windows, and set up my Serial ATA 300gb hardrive as STORAGE. If so how? :-?Yes, usually, ALTHOUGH some equipment can be problematic. As we KNOW nothing about your hardware it is too early to give the step by step. Maybe you could do that after you have a read here:

http://help.lockergnome.com/lofiversion/index.php/t41141.html

and maybe a little GOOGLE for info?

I am choosing between an ATI Radeon X800 XL 256MB GDDR-3 AGP graphics card ($240) and an ATI Radeon X850 PRO 256MB DDR AGP graphics card ($225). I have a DELL Dimension 4600 with 512MB (max 2048MB) of DDR SDRAM. What is the difference between the GDDR-3 graphics card and a DDR graphics card? Can I RUN the GDDR-3 card in my COMPUTER? What about the DDR card? Which one would you choose?

Thank you.[SIZE=12][/size]

Hello, I am new to this so I dont know if I am using the right forum. Anyway, I installed a new motherboard and cpu Intel desktop BOARD d101ggc and a celeron chip. Since then, when I try to boot the computer it comes back saying windows was not able to start, to try one of the options allowing it start normally or try safe mode. Nothing happens when I try safe mode, and when I allow it to start normally it goes thru the same process everytime. I have tried to boot it with a boot disk but at the end it just goes to the a prompt and stops. I tried reseating the memory, unplugging the cd and dvd drives and several other things as INSTRUCTED by intel support on their site, but nothing works. Is there SOMETHING I am missing? Please HELP.bok6782..... Have you gone into the bios and checked to see if all the components are being recognised ?

dl65 hi
check the ram chips.maybe youve got bad chips or the mhz doesnt match
with the motherboards mhz.Did you try reinstalling Windows? It sounds like you just plunked in a Mobo with a previous installation that was used to different components.

Some people can do a repair installation, but this would be easier on you and your brain to try. Make sure your data is backed up!!!Thanks to all for your quick response. I tried the LAST one which was to reinstall windows and after a couple of tries was able to boot the computer. However, in so doing, all the programs that was on the hard drive are there but the only ones recognised by windows are the ones when you install a new copy of windows. Hope this makes sense to you as I want to get them on windows. Do I got into the C drive and drag them to the desktop? Forgive me for asking such silly questions and thanks again for your wonderful help.

does ANYONE know of any issues with setting up a dual layer DVD burner in a 5.25 inch IDE to USB external drive BAY under windows 2000 pro

Can I have both ATA and SATA HARDDISK at the same time for a computer?
For example, let the SATA be the system DRIVE and ATA for storage.Yes. Gee, that was EASY.


Sure you can. You may want to use the SATA drive for the system, since those drives are usually faster than ATA. You can even have IDE drives with SCSI drives together.
My friend told me that it's not good to consuming the bandwidth by occupying all FOUR Primary Master/Slave and Secondary Master/Slave. Is it true?
If that's the case, if I have 2 HDD and 2 CD/DVD drive, what other option do I have?Your friend told you wrong. Many people have 4 IDE devices, no problem, and I have never even heard of it causing a problem.
Actually he didn't MEAN it will cause any problem, just badnwidth wise, it's not advisable.
Comparing 2 IDE device in one channel with 1 IDE device in one channel, would the latter performs better?

I have had my computer for almost 18 months and the CD Drive has suddenly stopped loading games properly (all except Sims2). The disk speeds up, but REPEATEDLY slows and stops the game loading, and if the game does LOAD, it repeadly freezes and refuses to respond, thereby freezing up my whole computer. This is extremely frustrating as it takes some games upto 30 mins to load. i have tried CLEANING it using CD Lens cleaners, but they have no effect. is it time to get a new Cd Drive?

Cheers

NantithusProbably yes, and they are relatively cheap. If you WANT to see if that is the culprit borrow a drive for a bit from another computer.

Im thinking about buying a PC/Laptop and was looking for some advice

i want it to be able to run games like World of Warcraft and Eve-Online, along with counter-strike and such, any advice?It depends on how much money you are willing to spend on a laptop. Any preticular company you looking at?Gaming laptops cost even more than regular laptops. How bad you want to play is the i$$ue.

http://www.shopping.hp.com/webapp/shopping/computer_series.do?series_name=dv4000_series&catLevel=2&category=notebooks/hp_pavilion&storeName=computer_store&aoid=13198&kw=hp+dv4000

someone said that could play world of warcraft and such like doom3 on max settings but somehow i dont believe that...

itd be nice to not spend more than $1000Good luck with that. This particular machine has shared video memory - not ever good for gaming, and sure not with Doom3. Have you looked at the system requirements for that? This doesn't even come close.heh, maybe you can help? essentially what i want to do, is be able to play games like world of warcraft and counter strike and have a relativly lag free fun time, and if possible, easily portable(like a laptop)
can you recomend ANYTHING at all to me PLEASE?You can get one to do that, but it'll cost you. These are very nice.

http://alienware.com/main_gaming.aspx?cs=1*cough* *has a seizure*

sweet jesus, thoes are just a tad expensive......

im positive it could run what i want but WOW....thats absoloutly insane, 2000 for a laptop?

assuming a get enough grades i could PROBABLY get that because my dad would help me pay, but 2000.... its just crazyYou can game well on a desktop for a lot less!yea.... i thought so, but the portabilty might become a factor in this........i hope not tho........
if i get a desktop, can you recomend any websites?(hopes you dont recomend alienware again)i don't know about pre-fabricated systems, as I would DEFINITELY built my own o get what I want (and I'm not a big gamer) with components from Newegg, of course. Perhaps someonene else could advise on this question.Heh, ive thought about building my own, but my worry is id probably break some VITAL component and then the whole thing wouldnt work... That is always a possibility. LOL. Just look around this board! *loooks around* hmm......now im even more scared of breaking something, yay!!

if i build it myself, there is that possibility, but if i buy from retailer, then its not as good....

im gonna need a scale.....You could PICK out the parts you want, then order them from a computer shop & get the shop to assemble it for you.
Sure it will cost a little more but if there is a warranty problem, the problem is theirs.
My local shop charges $50 Aust to assemble and about 10% more for the parts that I could buy elsewhere.
Everyone should be allowed to make some money

Hi,

I recently found an old Isilon IQ6000i server and Isilon IQ6000x SAS HDD enclosure gathering dust.

Both are POWERING on, but both have some issues with ventilators. I don't have external SAS cable to check if IQ6000x is working as intended.

Issue with ventilators on both is this: ventilators are on full POWER all the time and the PCB board that is used to connect them to the MotherBoard is having all "Fan Failure" LEDs on. Also front display on IQ6000i is not working, just the blue power led in shape of two circles (that are part of Isilon logo).

I was googling for a few weeks now, but couldn't find any INFO or drivers about them, only info sheet from CNET. Isilon is now part of DELL EMC I guess, but there is nothing on their support pages about model I have.

Does anyone have any tips or suggestions what COULD be culprit, and if it is COMPLICATED to fix?

Server is working, latest Debian distribution is running on it, and I can use it as CHIA harvester, but vents are driving me crazy.

cheers

Velimir

I am frequently am away from my printer for 3-4 months..
Most of the time when I return the ink has dried, the print heads cannot be cleaned usually a nozzle check shows this.
Will a Laser do better with prolonged periods of disuse?
Is there a WAY to clear/clean an ink jet prior to these periods of disuse?

So far I usually end up getting a new one or taking mine in for repair. Often at cost more than the price of a new (inexpensive) one>You can buy cleaning kits for inkjet printers but frankly you should only buy inkjet printers if you need to frequently print high quality images (e.g. photos). If you need to get high quality prints but only rarely then it’s worth paying the premium for a company to print them for you.

I've got a small monochrome LaserJet which I rarely use for the odd print out (literally only buy ink cartridges every couple of years).

If you want colour and have the space get a colour laser jet, they're larger and more expensive to buy but far cheaper in the long run. (ASSUMING that you're throwing out 90% full ink cartridges all the time) Thanks for the feedback..
I tried several of the cleaning kits.. Essential all were useless.
Does anyone know if A Laser printer tolerates prolonged inactivity any better that an ink jet ?
Or do they clog, dry up etc. just as much.
It would be cheaper to replace the inkjets as I can get a color one often under $100. If a color laser doesn't like long periods of disuse then at least in my thinking ,they are much more expensive to replace .I've had my monochrome laser printer for about 8 years now and I've never needed to clean it or fuss with it to get it to print. When I owned inkjet printers, it seemed like I had to JUMP thru a bunch of hoops every time I wanted to print due to clogged print heads, empty ink cartridges, paper jams, etc...

I can't cite studies or anything to ATTEST to a laser tolerating prolonged inactivity better than an ink jet but in my personal EXPERIENCE the laser wins hands down.

Unless you need to print color often, a monochrome laser is the way to go. They require less maintenance, print much faster and have a lower cost per printed page than an inkjet. The only drawback is that they cost more up front but prices have actually come down since I bought mine.

Hi everyone.
Last week I threw coke over my laptop. I know I know.

After drying out laptop turns on.

No keys on the laptop itself work EXCEPT Enter and caps LOCK and shift.

I use the mouse to bring up the on screen keyboard and again no keys work except enter, shift and caps lock.
I plug in an external keyboard and yet again the only keys that work are enter, shift and caps lock.

I've taken it to a geek shop and they are gazumpt as to why even the software keybaord and both hardware keyboards all show the same ISSUE.

Has anyone got a clue as to how to fix.
I can ony get the the log in screen. It seems FINE apart from the keybaord issue. So it means I can;t get in to update drivers. It's a Lenovo Carbon X1 running Windows.

Please help.

Thanks
GrahamHi Graham

That is quite strange; do you happen to know if the repair shop tried booting the laptop with the internal keyboard disconnected? A faulty keyboard can cause all sorts of weird behavior and if you've split cola on it...

I was once stumped for a long time as to why half my FUNCTION keys (F-keys) didn't work but only in certain programs. Turns out it was the keyboard itself (not drivers), it also had the unfortunate habit of randomly causing boot failures.

Hello,

I recently swapped my stock ventirad (AMD Stealth Wraith) with a Cooler Master 240rgb water-cooling.

I didn't need to disassemble everything, I just removed the ram to have more space, the motherboard stayed in the case, same for all the cables, I didn't unplug anything.

Except that when I turn on my computer, I have no signal. The lights come on, the fans are all running, the RGB of the pump comes on, the LEDs of the motherboard come on, the RGB of my keyboard and my mouse come on, but 0 signal. I don't understand what's going on.

I removed and put back the ram, I removed and put back the graphic card, checked the display port of my screen, nothing happens. I tried with the HDMI output but I have nothing either.

My pump is making noise, my fans are running fine, and I don't know what to do anymore.

I'm going to give it one more try with my old monitor on HDMI but I don't think it will make a difference.

My only thought is that there is a PRESSURE problem detected by the cpu which thinks it has no cooler on top, but I checked it out and my INSTALL is fine, tight, and I put an adequate amount of thermal paste.

I switched back to the stock cooler and nothing. I have no signal anymore.
For those who ask:

Aorus B550i Pro AX
R5 3600
RTX 2060
16GB of ram

I'm starting to despair. This pc was WORKING perfectly and it is my only work tool for my studies as well as my only entertainment because it allows me to connect and play with my friends who are far away. I'm starting to fear that an important component such as the GPU or the CPU has died without reason, and I don't have the money to buy one, especially in the current situation.

Unfortunatley this could be caused by a LOT of issues and without spare parts could be quite difficult to diagnose.

Have you tried booting with only 1 stick of RAM at a time, trying DIFFERENT slots? (Assuming that you have more than 1)
Unfortunatly the 3600 doesn't have integrated graphics so you can't boot without the graphics card.
You could try a CMOS reset (although I doubt that this would be helpful in this situation)
If you have a spare power supply give that a go.
Other than that try the most minimal boot possible (CPU + RAM (1 stick) + GPU & nothing else)

I don't suppose that you have an old case speaker to see if the motherboard generates any fault codes? For a motherboard without a Q-code display I would consider this an investment in itself.

I'm really sorry for asking this but do you definitely have the CPU fan connected the CPU_FAN connector not the CASE_FAN?

I just replaced my primary monitor with a new one (ASUS), and replaced the secondary monitor with the previous primary monitor (SAMSUNG).

I have the secondary Samsung monitor positioned to the left (connected VIA VGA) of my primary Asus monitor (connected via HDMI).

HOWEVER, when I power on my computer, the boot screen would appear on the secondary Samsung monitor INSTEAD of the primary Asus monitor.

Why is it so?

Thanks.

OPERATING SYSTEM WINDOWS XP HOME EDITION

systemax tech support offers the following:

PROBLEM: System Not Booting Up - System Has An AGP Video Card And Uses DIMM Memory
(Article: 394)

Summary

System Not Booting Up - System Has An AGP Video Card And Uses DIMM Memory

Symptom

System does not start up, there is no post, no video, and no diagnostic beeps - system appears dead

Cause

The AGP video card and the DIMM memory may have been installed out of sequence

Resolution

If the DIMM memory is installed after installing the AGP video card, the bottom edge of the video card may be holding down the lock levers on one end of the DIMM sockets. The result is that the memory DIMM may not seat properly and cause the system to not start up. The solution would be to remove the AGP video card, firmly seat the memory DIMM (s) and then replace the AGP video card. Both locking levers must be up against the side of the DIMM for proper seating


My problem is that these two cards are far apart in the case and have little to do with each other. Is sequence really that important when both cards are so far apart? Is it possible that the video card is just bad or defective?
What should I try next?

these are the specs for the two cards in question:

(1) 256MB DDR266 PC2100 Non-ECC Memory (256MB x 1
(1) nVidia GeForce 2 32 MB Graphics Card w/ TV Out

Any help would be appreciated.
Dwayne....In your case the fact that you have a AGP card and dimm sockets has nothing to do with your problem. The article you refer to doesnt apply to you....
( I have a ASUS MB with that config) If you have nothing ...zip ...perhaps the problem is with your power supply or even the motherboard......can you provide more info on what your p/c was doing prior to the problem.......were you doing anything inside the case .....
let us know

dl65 nothing inside the case

the COMPUTERE has had an intermittent problem of not booting up for the last year.

Sometimes it would boot other times not.

I did a system restore about SIX months ago.

the problem is just exactly what is described in the systemax fix scenario.

power comes on to case but monitor light remains amber.

computer is appx 2.5 yrs old and is a systemax ascent serial number 104495472

power appears to be coming inside the box but the monitor of late never comes on or i hear no beeps or see no SCREEN flashes or anything

i have heard that these systems have had mother board problems on some websites i have visited.

the problem solution scenario is the only one i could find on supportforyourpc.com that even remotely came close to what I am experiencing.

Does this help any? Thanks added to previous reply:

i did take both the agp card and the memory card out and replace after the problems started again recently/recently is the first time i had done this but the problem remains the same even after this is doneDwayne.....when you talk about the amber monitor light are you talking about the led thats on the monitor or something else ......
Is the a led on the case that indicated power on ?
The fact that this has been a ongoing problem for the last year makes me wonder if something isnt seated properly on the motherboard .......ie .....Ram , Processor or even the 20 pin plug from the P/S to the M/B .......and how about dust .....is the interior of the case free of dust ?
The fact that there are no diagnostic beeps suggests that .........theres a power supply problem or the in case speaker is no longer connected .....have you checked that ?

let us know
dl65


led on the machine is green/led on the monitor is amber and flashing but never turns green because the computer does not boot/i checked to make sure that all cards and memory were seated correctly on the mother board/i removed and reseated all of them as per manufacturers instructions with unit unplugged.

How do I check the power supply? if all else is okay.


I did toggle the back swith to the off position and unplug the power cord for 5 seconds then plug back in and toggle the back switch on then tried to power up with the same result-- green led on the computer case and amber flashing on the monitor with a black screen.

yesterday morning the system booted up after having been off all nite. i left it on all day and when i returned home the screen was black and would not redisplay indicating that something happened during the 9 hours i was out.

This is seeming more and more like an intermiitent power supply issue

what do you think?Dwayne .....Is the fan on the power supply running when you power up ?
If it is you should check the out put voltages going to the Cd drives the hard drives ........You will need a DC voltmeter to check these voltages. Perhaps what happens is....when its cool .....all connections are made and it starts.....when it heats up things expand and .....a poor connection appears and the problems OCCUR.....most common places to look is the power supply .......is the vid card properly seated ....

let us know

dl65 thanks/

it it starts up after being off all day TODAY then the heat theory is a good one/the trick will be finding the poor connections after expansion has taken place/the power supply i suppose should then be my focus/vid card is seated well/thanks again and thanks a bunch for this sightDwayne .....have a real good look at how the vid card is seated into the board ....sometimes if the board flexes downward with expansion the screw the hold the card into the case....( doesnt move and if the connection to the motherboard isnt great .....we have a problem ....)

Have you checked the contacts on your AGP card .....are they tarnished ...or dirty looking .....I would carefully wipe then off using a soft cloth and alcohol....very gently .....DO NOT GET YOUR FINGERS ON THE CONTACTS
The other thing you could try is to get a new power supply....but make sure you can return it if you dont need it and try that .

Sounds like your on the right track.

dl65

in this LINK you can see what I did

I am beginner with python and I have to do the same for my work. (link INCLUDED) filecmp- code compare directories, take the different files. Everything okay with
ls -1R /tmp/test/current/ & ls -1R /tmp/test/old/
BUT for the THIRD file and the most important does not GIVE me any results.

ls -1R /users/diff/newdiff
I will APPRECIATE your answer. What should I change to take results.

myPennMedicine Login

I have a 512 Gb usb but only shows 22 Gb.

Can someone please tell me how to use/run the cmd function to RESET the usb.

I tried the web.. The university of Youtube instructions but my computer doesnt do the same responses.

My computer with the usb connected only shows my laptop hard drive. ( That I can tell )
I tried to, list drives but cmd says not a recognised command.

Thank you
ImnoGuru.
Hi

Are you sure it is a 512 GB Pen drive there is a lot of fake pen drives AROUND. Today you would need to pay over $60.00 to get a 512 GB pen drive, if it was less than $60.00 it is most likely a fake.

There is PLENTY of test programs to detect fake pen drives.
One to try is Flash Drive/Card Tester

Hello & thank you for your reply.

No Im not certain of the REAL size. I ESTIMATE, seeing its an Ironman Face with a 512 sticker on it, that it could any amount in reality.

I'll run it through your SUGGESTED program/s & we'll all find out.
Cheers ImnoGuru

So, My pc is 2 years old and CURRENTLY i have couple of problems

SPECS
r5 1600x
16 gb ddr4 corsair VENGEANCE (2 X 8gb)
gtx 1060 6gb asus
500 watt psu (corsair vs series)
COOLER master cpu fan
2 ssd
2 hdd


PROBLEMS
1) On booting, pc case running but no input on display / keyboard (no lights) and mouse
2) Pc restarting or going to above situation when playing some high end games or when exporting videos in video editor


METHODS I HAVE TRIED
1) changed psu
2) tried removing 1 ram at a time / 1 hdd at a time
3) cpu temps not too high
4) can't run remtest86 because it takes pc to problem (1) situation.
5) cleaned pc
6) changed thermal paste on pc
7) PC passed 3d mark stress test (99%)
PC benchmarking above 4000 (3d mark).


PLEASE HELP
I have ALSO updated my drivers

PC shuts down after 1-2 seconds turns on while playing CK3. I've checked temperatures many times and it's not overheating. I did CHKDSK, memtest, reinstall/update DRIVERS, deleted and clean installed the GAME, verified the integrity of the game files, downloaded c++, netframework, directx. It only happens in CK3, i've contacted the Paradox(developer) support but after seeing the crash logs and stuff they told me that i have an hardware ISSUE and that they can't HELP me with that.

Specs:
Operating System: Windows 10 Enterprise 64-bit
CPU: Intel Core i5 6500 @ 3.20GHz
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16,0GB (2x8) DDR4 2400Mhz
Motherboard: MSI Z170A PC MATE (MS-7971) (U3E1)
Graphics: 4095MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960 (MSI)
Storage 223GB SanDisk Ultra II 240GB (SATA (SSD)), 931GB Western Digital WDC WD10EZEX-00WN4A0 (SATA )
PSU: CORSAIR VS650

Hello everybody.

I have recently had Windows XP running OK on my machine, but (for reasons I won't get into here) I am going back to Windows 98. I had WinXP running on NTFS and so I zero'd the hard disk, run FDISK (to set 1 partition only - FAT32) and reformatted the disk. Everything with the drive appeared to perfectly OK. The disk booted fine into DOS after the format. Free space etc all reports properly. Then after installing 98, it simply will not boot. In fact, it refused to boot into windows during the first re-boot of the installation process.

So, I re-did the whole proccess again. Same result. I have successfully installed 98 onto this disk a number of times in the past, but it just seems to hang now.

It's a 40GB Baracuda, S.M.A.R.T is reporting no problems, and I'm running it through a 80 pin cable, with cable select pin configuration on IDE1.

Everythings checks out OK, but it simplt hangs FOREVER when attempting to start windows. Autoexec seems to execute OK, it's when it gets to the 'starting windows for the first TIME' message that it just sits there.

PLEASE - HELP!!
Not so sure about Windows 98, but I remember that Windows 95 (yeah, I lived during that time!) couldn't HANDLE such large capacity disks.

The previous times you have installed Windows 98 - did you have only one partition as well?

Regards,

FolkLore
the winxp disk when loaded give you the option to revert back to a previous operating system..anyway options are download a win98 boot disk from www.bootdisk.com change the boot sequence in the bios boot from cdrom or completly wipe the hard drive by USING this>http://www.killdisk.com/ when you upgraded to winxp it would have been a doodle re-loading win98 if fat32 was USED..never mind try the killdisk progam..Thanks for the replies!

I found out what the problem was. Unbelieveable too.

It turns out that it was a CMOS configuration problem, and an unlikely one at that. Certainly a lesson to be learnt for anyone reading this, as I've not heard of this problem before.

In CMOS, my motherboard has an 'Intergrated Peripherals' section. Nothing unusual about that, and in this section is an option to 'Enable USB mouse support'.

When USB mouse support was enabled, Win98 refused to run during it's initial installation. If I disabled USB mouse support the problem simply went away! It made no difference whether I was running a USB mouse or not either.

Oddly enough, once Win98 is installed, I can enable USB mouse support in CMOS, both with or without a USB mouse, and it will boot just fine.

Go figure...

Dear Users

Should I choose DELL T3600 PC or Dell Optiplex 4TH Generation Coire I7 PC for my video editing tasks and basic gaming

I bought a WD 4TB HDD today to be used for backup. Upon initializing the drive, there are two unallocated "partitions" of 2048GB and 1678.02GB each. I SET up the first 2048GB part as a new volume, but can't do the same for the second 1678.02Gb part. The context menu is greyed out.

After some googling, it seems that Windows 7 only recognises up to 2.5TB.

So what I need to do now in order to be able to use the remaining 1678.02GB?

Thanks.
It is a limitation of MBR partitioning.

Windows Vista and later can access >2TB disks but you need to be using the 64-bit release and the drive must be partitioned using GPT.



Yes, I am aware of that after the googling. My Win 7 is 64-bit.

My question is, what I can or should do now in order to make it work?

From what I read, I will need to REFORMAT my system drive, partition it using GPT, and reinstall Windows 7.

Just wonder if that is the only way.
In Disk Management, you would need to remove all partitions from the disk, and then a "Convert to GPT Disk" option should be available when RIGHT-click on the drive. Then you can create a 4TB partition. (or I guess whatever partitions you like) and it will be able to use the fill disk capacity.There is no option to remove the partitions. See attached.

As I understand from a few IT friend and also some articles, the drive containing the OS will need to be GPT in the first place. That’s the trouble I want to avoid. You need to Right Click in the square under Disk 0 and select convert to GPT then make the NTFS/Fat32 partitions inside the GPT partition.
There is no need to change your other drive to GPT to do this.

This is what a 4TB drive looks like first changed to GPT

And then Partitioned as EXFat and NTFS

Then re partitioned as single 4TB NTFS


Ok I’ll try.

Btw, why is the need to partition as ExFAT + NTFS first? I only SHOWED it as an option to have both xfat and NTFS partitions. It could be a single 4TB NTFS or any number of smaller NTFS partitions. Once you have it in GPT format it is the same as partitioning a 2 TB or smaller drive.Quote from: Lisa_maree on April 29, 2021, 11:15:32 PM

You need to Right Click in the square under Disk 0 and select convert to GPT then make the NTFS/Fat32 partitions inside the GPT partition.

Hey everyone!

I used the Windows 11 system check tool and it told me my CPU isn't supported, which is fine, but I have been meaning to upgrade it for some time now. Since I am not up to date with the current hardware landscape, I thought I'd ask you guys here, what would be a good replacement?

My current CPU is an i5-3350P. My budget is very limited, so upgrading to a completely NEW one might not be possible at this time. I could buy one, but I feel like it's not that important to me to get any latest hardware. I would however like to see a relatively significant boost from an upgrade. If you can throw some good processors my way that would be nice. Also, if they could be in the same family of processors as my current one, it would be great, since I have been satisfied with this processor, and would like to support a trustworthy system.

Thanks!Hi

It is UNLIKELY your computer meets other requirements to run Windows 11 like having TPM2.0 support and being able to run an 8 TH gen or later CPU. At the moment my advice is STICK with your present system running Windows 10 which has support until 2025 at this stage. Then build a new machine for windows 11.

Hello everyone - I am desperate for help - I know that Incredimail shut down however I was still successfully using it until I inadvertently ALLOWED Microsoft to automatically download KB4577586 on my Acer Laptop which automatically removed Adobe Flash Player needed by Incredimail to operate. Microsoft SAYS that this update cannot be uninstalled but before I discovered this information I allowed it to happen to my Surface Pro which I am now using. Anyway I searched the net and someone POSTED that if I downloaded Flash Player Pro 6.0 that I would GET Incredimail back – I did this to the Acer and at first for about 1 minute it worked – I opened my mail unfortunately I took a break and when I came back my system was totally GONE – the computer won’t boot up – All I have on my Acer is a dark screen. I took it to a computer guy who has told me that all my info is still there however he can only rescue my docs and pics and to do that means new sys install. All my desperately needed emails along with other PROGRAM information will still be there but I will be unable to access them. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas how I can get it all back to where it was? I am hoping and praying someone can help me. – No I stupidly do not have a recent system backup of either machine & now Incedimail (which was working on here Surface Pro) will not work and I am too frightened to download Flash Player Pro 6.0 again in case it happens to this machine. I am desperate because the Acer and in particular Incredimail holds VITAL INFORMATION that I desperately need. Thanks for listening or reading.

I just set up DUAL monitors and I lag horribly in games. Searching the net told me that because one is connected by DVI and one by HDMI that the issue is there. Running Windows 10 with an NVIDIA 1050 Ti card. If I get an adapter for DVI to DP will that work? I can't connect them both the same way because the card only has 3 connections, all different (DVI, HDMI, DP). Help PLEASE and thank you in advance.1. does lag also represents only with one monitor?
2. is the lag present during normal operation (browsing the net, word, excel...)?
3. what kind of game are you running? is lag present in another game?
4. i assume you updated the drivers for graphic card. so, if you lower the resolution in game, is lag still present?1. no lag with only one monitor in use
2. no lag during normal operation (less graphic intense)
3. MMORPG, and present in any graphic heavy game
4. I haven't lowered the resolution, and prefer not to. Am hoping for a connection solution if possible.

Thank you for helping!I have. They both work fine. I have found that I need to play games in windowed fullscreen vs just fullscreen and that works. It's not ideal, but it is acceptable. Thank you for your time and help

My laptop has just given me that blue screen of death.. 'Windows needs to RESTART after saving some information.. blah blah ... '

When it comes BACK on... my second monitor won't work.
I have:
Restarted several times.
Gone to display and hit the Detect button.. it says 'didnt detect another display'.
Unplugged the HDMI cable from the laptop and PLUGGED it back in again. When I do this it flashes a few things up and at the end says, 'NO SIGNAL'.
Anyone got any ideas other than my laptop is on the way out??
CHEERS

Okay, this is probably a weird question, but I'm kind of at a loss. I can't connect to many websites in many pieces of software, such as bing.com, although other websites WORK fine.

The weird thing is, this issue persists on a clean install of both Windows and any Linux distro, but only onto this PC. If I install the same Windows or Linux distro on my other PC, I can connect to all websites just fine. But on the other PC, it is consistent across any OS. I know it's not an issue with the WiFi dongle because, again, that same dongle used in the other PC doesn't give issues. Can't be a router issue because I have tons of devices and none have this problem connecting to random websites. Not an issue with the drives, either, because booting from a different drive causes the same issue.

It does seem to be partially a software problem because some programs will connect to websites just fine. I can connect to bing.com in Firefox but not in Chromium. WGET can't ACCESS many websites either, and the version of GIT that comes with Ubuntu 20.04 can't even clone github but the version on Ubuntu 21.04 can.

I Google it and it doesn't seem like anybody on the planet is experiencing these same problems as I am, and on all my PCs, the problems only occur on a very specific PC, and the only thing I haven't changed out is the motherboard and the CPU, and it's an incredibly strange motherboard and CPU which makes it suspect.

But I'm not sure how the motherboard or CPU could affect SSL. The websites I can't connect to all give various SSL errors. It is kinda funny to install Windows, open up Edge, and then Microsoft's own default page throws an error and can't load.

Is it possible my CPU or mobo could be at fault here? Could they have some sort of affect on secure connections? I really have no idea what could be culprit since I have never encountered this issue before and fresh installs of OS's don't fix it which makes me think it's at least partially a hardware issue, and since I have a very strange and abnormal motherboard and CPU from the KX-6000 series I thought maybe there is some weird incompatibility. It seems to be very specific to this PC as well and affects no other devices on my network, which seems to imply it is a hardware fault specific to the PC.

I really know nothing about SSL, can a hardware fault prevent a machine from making secure connections to some websites?

SORRY if this is a silly question, I'm no computer expert and have been trying to figure this out for weeks and have no idea what is going on.1. What do you mean by "Can't connect"? Do you SEE an error message?

2. If the error message is complaining about the SSL certificate, what does it say about it?
Quote from: BC_Programmer on October 15, 2021, 09:42:59 PM

1. What do you mean by "Can't connect"? Do you see an error message?

2. If the error message is complaining about the SSL certificate, what does it say about it?

ERROR:ssl_client_socket_impl_cc(981)] handshake failed; returned -1, SSL error code 1, net_error -107

Is the time and date correct on the PC ? ?

The errors suggest out-dated OpenSSL libs being used by the affected programs.

The errors are complaining about errors working with the certificate data, as OpenSSL attempts to verify it. They are very low-level errors, too, which makes them unusual. From your original post I expected the errors were errors within the browser about the certificate not being valid, but it seems like it isn't even getting that far and is failing outright while trying to work with the certificate data.

Everything I can find about the errors suggest it's a rather low-level error. The only relationship I can fathom between the cryptography functions and the motherboard/CPU is if the system in question has a TPM and some cryptography functions attempt to use it, but it doesn't work properly or as expected, but I can't find anything about that. You could check the BIOS settings and disable TPM if present and see if the issues go away just to eliminate that as a cause. Basically from what I can find, whether OpenSSL will or will not use a TPM depends on certain 'engines" being installed and those engines are enabled by the programs using OpenSSL, which could explain why you are getting different behaviour on the affected machine.

Side Note: if memory serves, Linux will always store time in the CMOS in UTC, and adjusts it for the time zone, which is probably why what you were seeing was a few hours off.

I’m typing this from my phone because I can’t use my computer with this issue.

My mouse is SPAMMING right CLICK . I thought it was a hardware issue and USED another mouse but the issue persisted. Maybe it was the keyboard but unplugging that didn’t fix anything and neither has RESTARTING

I have run windows troubleshooting with my mouse no luck

I have tried disable click lock but it was already disabled and have renabled it and Disabled it and that didn’t work

Tried to update my mouses drivers but they’re all up to date
Maybe try checking the permissions settings under your browser to see if a bunch of sites are being allowed to send NOTIFICATIONS to your desktop.

Hi!

I am seeking help with my computer that is a bit old, recently it keeps shutting off randomly but I notice doing certain things would cause it, at first it would be playing Valorant (Video Game), every time I play the game it would shut off during the middle of the game so I changed everything from high to low in the game's graphic settings but it did not prevent it, though I never had a problem a couple months ago, now it is consistently shutting off, it has gotten worse, next it started shutting off while I watch streamed live videos and now even long Youtube videos would trigger it

I am hoping to pin-point the problem and solve it, but I do not know where to begin, any advice would be appreciated!I would take a look around inside your case for any signs of a possible short circuit. Any loose screws left rolling around, any misaligned blank covers for any empty slot possibly touching the edge of your motherboard? Have you tried reseating your video card and ram? Have you tried booting the machine from a Kubuntu or Windows PE usb to see if the problem happens in those environments as well?

If none of those seem to help, then maybe I'd take a close look at the power-supply. You can BUY a cheap ATX power supply tester on Amazon, depending upon where you live. Maybe as a last resort, take a look inside the power-supply and see if it has any bulging CAPACITORS which have started to leak all over the power supply's mainboard.

If all of that looks good, take a look at the on-off button located on the front panel of your ATX case. I believe that these things are supposed to function like a momentary contact switch, but if they get stuck partially open, or partially closed, then the power button switch might cause a problem like this. Try unplugging it from the board and USE a digital ohm meter to make sure it cuts off the voltage neatly and cleanly.

I'm sure that someone else will probably have better ideas, but those are my two cents How would I notice signs of short circuits

No to screws, No to blank covers

I have not tried re-seating or know how to boot the machine from Kubuntu or Windows PE

Yup, I already have a PSU from Amazon on the way, hoping that will be the solution

My PSU is not near the MoBo and I can't really see the inside of it even when I took the part out

I will keep that in MIND about the button!Well as far as short circuits go, I'd look for anything which looks like it might be capable of conducting electricity, hanging out in a place where it doesn't belong. Also, maybe look any wires which might of worked their way out of a plug, a fan that appears to have stopped working, and or anything which has a burnt smell to it.

Also, they sell inexpensive power supply testers on Amazon, and they can take the guess work out of trying to figure out if the power supply has actually failed, or if it is something else. Just curious, do you live in a country that USES 220 line voltage?

If you remove the power supply from inside your computer, then open it's case, it will be obvious if you happen to have any capacitors which are going bad, or have already failed. First the capacitors start to bulge, and then later on they actually split open and leak their innards inside the power supply.

Well, you can unplug the power switch from your motherboard, and then you you take a small metal object and touch it to both of the motherboard pins for the power switch. If the computer starts, then it was the power switch causing your trouble. If you decide to try this test, make sure you don't touch your metal tool onto anything else than just the two mother board pins for the power switch.

Hope this helps.

Hi there!

My current 1200W PSU is dying and I need a new PSU

My computer is old so I did not want to spend too much and ordered this 1000W PSU
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09BYT4P91/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I received it today and swapped it out with my current PSU, less than a minute after logging into Windows, there was a loud pop and sparks coming from the PSU housing compartment, my computer shut off immediately and I unplugged everything, it fried my surge protector (Thank god for it, I never thought I would see the day)

Good news is that I put my current PSU back in and it is working, nothing dead (except my surge protector /sadface)

I would like to treat this as a life LESSON, what could of caused it? A few things I could think of but quite not understand

Was it because I bought a no-name brand PSU? There is not a lot of information about their brand but enough to gamble that it would work

Was it because I bought 1000W instead of 1200W?

My GPU used 2 8-pins PCI-E cables with my current PSU, with the new PSU I noticed there was 2 8-pins on 1 cable and OPTED for that instead of two separate cables, did that cause it?

There was not enough Molex cables for my sound card, Asus Xonar Essence STX, so I decided not to use my single Molex cable for it but left it attached to my MoBo

I did not change the pin connector for the fan connected to CPU FAN on my MoBo

Any recommendations for a 1200W PSU that won't explode?
Quote

Was it because I bought a no-name brand PSU? There is not a lot of information about their brand but enough to gamble that it would work

Yes. I've never heard of "ARESGAME" myself.

I think it is unlikely your system actually needs 1200 Watts, even with a 30-series RTX card. If it's truly necessary, A reliable 1200 Watt supply will set you back 300-400 dollars. It's uncommon for a system to require more than 850 Watts, though. I'm using a Corsair RM650 650-Watt supply with an overclocked 4770K a 1070, and a USB3 and Sound card that both take a power input and it's been running fine since 2013/2014 when I built it (originally with a GTX 770).

Hi there, guys. So, I have been thinking about buying a computer and I got two choices, one I thought about buying a gaming laptop and the other option was building a gaming PC. Due to my geographical location the PC parts these days are really expensive, and I found that the lowest budget I NEED to have is 45,000 because I am living in a country that have little high inflation rate. So, I want to get an advice. Do you advice me to buy a gaming laptop or try to save up for a gaming pc? Also, if I want to buy a laptop, what brands of laptops do you advice me with?Question for a MILLION dollars
gaming desktops are probably better options since you can upgrade them in the future (ram, disk, graphic card...) and they usually have better cooling solutions than laptops. Which can (or will) heat up and start throttling down cpu (gpu) speed. If you have space problem to put the desktop and monitor (and other stuff) in the room/table then laptop is your option. Since NOWADAYS everywhere is problem with normal PRICED gpu's I would GO for laptop. I don't know what kind of laptop you have in mind? Look for rtx 30xx versions for "future proof" or at least gtx 1660 ti versions. You didn't specify what kind of games you are playing or want to play in the future? Of course...disk should be at least 500gb since games are now quite "space hungry"...
Brands...lenovo, acer, asus, razer have their models for gaming. Can't really say which one is best of the best.

Hello - I have a Lenovo 310s desktop. I contacted Microsoft for help when my monitor went black. They said that the problem would be a BAD cable or the monitor itself. I purchased a new cable and that didn’t help. I purchased a new monitor and got error msgs ie no signal detected. I contacted Microsoft again and was told that I probably need a new video card. I am having trouble finding someone to fix it. Is this something that a novice could replace? If I get a new computer, I need to transfer data but I don’t THINK that can be done without a monitor? Would anyone have advice? Thank you.Yes, replacing the display adapter is very simple. You just unplug the power supply, open the case, remove the cable between the display adapter and the monitor, unscrew the existing card, INSERT the new one, screw it back into place, close the case, reattach the cable and power supply. It really is that easy. I'm sure there are videos available on Youtube if you do a Google search. The only CAVEAT is you should TOUCH the metal case before touching anything inside the computer to discharge any potential static buildup (especially in a carpeted room).Reaching beyond your specific question, and reviewing your original problem, I'm not entirely convinced your issue will be resolved by installing a new video card.

In particular, after doing a few searches regarding that model, I am finding a number of people having the exact symptoms you have described- one day the machine just didn't start and wouldn't show anything on-screen. What they found was that there was that the factory-installed thermal paste on the CPU was dried up and reapplying the thermal paste fixed it. That process is more involved than replacing a graphics card, unfortunately.

Hi everyone,

I have a weird case. I cannot remember how long my Bios time once were, but I am for sure it does not bother me. Now it is very slow, boost to 30+ seconds. The things I have DONE is:

Changed to a pair of new RAM. Original RAM: XPG Gammix D30 2x8G 3200hz. New RAM: CORSAIR Vengence 2x8G 3600hz. Problem seems didn't start at this time yet. All using Dual Channel (2/4 slot of MOBO)

Changed the RAM back to XPG, the old one. Problem starts to happen.

Did 1-2 for 1 or 2 more times to test.

Try single channel / just using one of two ram sticks, problem resolved.

Change RAM back to single channel. Reset the bios, problem persist.

Reinstall windows, problem persist. <---------- Now

It is clear that problem goes with RAM but I cannot sure where exactly the problem goes. The motherboard ALWAYS STOP at loading RAM for a long time (the diagnose red light). I have two assumptions now:

The dual channel on MOBO break.

The RAM is faulty.

Some Bios setting problem.

Please help me. I really don't know where to start diagnosing.It always helps to have a little more detail of the computer.
The quickest WAY to get this detail is with a program called speccy which you can get from here https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download
After running the program select file ; publish snapshot , then copy the url to the report here.
Thanks

I had an issue with my PC RECENTLY (Windows 10) that required a clean install. There were some ISSUES with my old SSD so I bought a new one for the install. Soon after I installed Windows both my old SSD and a 2 TB HDD in an external dock were wiped clean (no readable file system). After doing numerous virus scans I did not another clean Windows install. This morning I had an external USB connected 3 TB Seagate drive get wiped wiped again with no readable file system. I did virus scans on the Windows SSD and found nothing. Can this be hardware issue?Unlikely a hardware issue, more likely software. It WOULD take software a long time to delete the whole of a 2 TB usb drive.
I suggest checking the drives for data with a drive hex editor like this one.

https://www.diskgenius.com/how-to/hdd-data-recovery.php

This will show if the files are still visible , allow you to display the drives contents as hex and ascii and run a file recovery.

Another PROGRAM which may show why the drives are getting erased is HDsentinel

Hi,

I have 3 fans from Corsair, the LL RGB Fan series to be specific. I have had the problem that the rgb on these are flickering and that the iCUE software doesnt work. I have been in contact with support but all they have told me is to delete other softwares that may interfere. This hasnt WORKED and now they sent me a REPLACEMENT that I just installed without any SUCCESS. The light is flickering and sometimes SHUTS off, I have tried switching the usb connection that I use but that didnt work either, so now I dont know what to do.

I have a feeling this is somewhere in the hardware because when I hit the computer the light sometimes go to the right color, like they got a connection, and sometimes shuts off or goes into this random color shifting thats not what I had selected in the software program.

I have a gigabyte b450m ds3h if thats to any help.

Would be very GRATEFUL for any help!

Thanks in advance for your help.Quote from: berwea on October 16, 2021, 08:00:42 PM

Hi,

I have 3 fans from Corsair, the LL RGB Fan series to be specific. I have had the problem that the rgb on these are flickering and that the iCUE software doesnt work. I have been in contact with support but all they have told me is to delete other softwares that may interfere. This hasnt worked and now they sent me a replacement that I just installed without any success. The light is flickering and sometimes shuts off, I have tried switching the usb connection that I use but that didnt work either, so now I dont know what to do.

I have a feeling this is somewhere in the hardware because when I hit the computer the light sometimes go to the right color, like they got a connection, and sometimes shuts off or goes into this random color shifting thats not what I had selected in the software program.

I have a gigabyte b450m ds3h if thats to any help.

Would be very grateful for any help!

Thanks in advance for your help.

been experiencing STUTTERING issues in all games RECENTLY, don't KNOW what's causing it, tried ddu reinstalling drivers but that did nothing.

issue video: https://youtu.be/Ykb2C33J7Ds

notice how the gpu usage drops for a second and the game stutters.

pc specs
2080 ti
3700x ryzen 3RD gen
gigabyte aorus elite wifi x570
32gb ram at 3333mhz
850w antec gold rated psu

Hi Will doing a REGISTRY backup for when sound was working, will I get it back? ThanksANYBODY HOME??
Your question is unclear, as is the issue you are having.

1) What is the EXACT problem you are having? And what HAPPENED just before it occurred?
2) When you ask if doing a registry backup will help, I ASSUME you mean a registry restore?
3) What type of registry backup do you have?

And a little less of the SARCASM please.^^^

My desktop PC is old

here are its specs and windows version
https://outervision.com/b/wOggbk
https://imgur.com/a/iXbFR7H

Within the past week I replaced my PSU (With the CORSAIR HX1200i) because the old ONE was dying and kept forcing my PC to shut off if I tried to game long hours, watch live videos etc...(month half ago, I had no issues doing these stuff)

After replacing my PSU it worked normally for a day and half where I was able to game (Geshin Impact & Valorant) for long hours again running it on their highest settings

After that day and half, it started displaying the same symptoms where the PC will shut down after trying to game, now for me to game long hours, I have to run the game in low graphics settings and choose a smaller resolution, this way it does not shut off while I am PLAYING

Trying to figure out what is triggering the PC shut off, I noticed that (While playing with the game's graphics) that the PC would consistently shut off when my GPU is last seen at 75-77C, with the game's current settings the GPU is sitting at 62C or lower

Could the GPU's temperature force my PC to shut off? Is there a resolution for this?

I have tried playing with open case, it made no difference to the GPU's temperature
Edit: I went in to my BIOS and found the following message, could be a clue to my current issue
"The system has experienced boot failures because of overclocking or changes of voltages."

I have never overclocked or made changes to the voltages, everything should be on stock but there are a couple of things that comes to mind

I recently switch the X.M.P. from DISABLED to Profile1 because SOMEONE said my RAM is under-performing (Should I switch it back to Disabled?)
https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/qhkbia/new_psu_loud_pop_sparked_and_dead_what_happened/hid8gsh/

and I have always had Performance Enhance set on Turbo, SINCE the day I put it together 11.5 years ago, should I set it to standard now?

Screenshots
https://imgur.com/a/q728HBx

Hello Guys,
I am planning to build a new pc for me
Components' List:
Processor: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X Processor
Motherboard: Asus TUF Gaming B550 Plus ATX AM4 Motherboard
Graphics Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3060 Ti GAMING X TRIO 8GB Graphics Card
CPU Cooler: Corsair A500 High Performance Dual Fan CPU Cooler
RAM: CORSAIR VENGEANCE LPX 8x8 GB DDR4 3600MHz RAM
SSD: Samsung 980 Pro 1TB PCIe 4.0 M.2 NVMe SSD
PCU: Corsair RM850x 850Watt 80 Plus Gold CERTIFIED Power Supply

Are these components compatible enough to not BOTTLENECK?

Only suggestion I have is to go with greater than 8GB RAM such as 16GB if you can do it as the benefit to this will be less PAGING to the SWAP space and more data direct from RAM to CPU. Games these days are starting to CUT heavy into the 8GB RAM area and so if you want to not have lag from paging of virtual memory, I'd suggest 16GB RAM. Everything else looks good without knowing what your going to run on the system.

Hi and thanks for lookin at my problem. I got home today and went to turn on my computer and nothing. We did have a THUNDERSTORM during the day so im guessing that had SOMETHING to do with it. Ive tried a different, working power cord. Im trying to rule out everything i can and was wondering if there is something on the motherboard that i could change to bypass the on/off switch. If that doesnt do the trick i hope its the power supply, if not then i guess its the motherboard. Ive got a Msi kt 4 ultra motherboard.
thanks again for the help.hobbs.....Was you computer on when the electrical storm passed through. I guess the obvious.....you have already checked ...but is the circuit that the puter is connected to working .........There may have been some lightning and a surge got to your puter........LOOK at the motherboard and pay attention to the capacitors in there .....( look like little BARRELS) do you see any that appear to be swollen or any that are leaking ?
The motherboard may be damaged .......
let us know

dl65 yea the circut is fine, got several other items PLUGGED into the power strip that the computer was in. will take a look at those caps and see. thanks for the reply.


update, just looked at the board and the caps, they all look good, nothing out of the ordinary. just for my knowledge, if it was the motherboard shouldnt the power supply still cut on? hobbs...The power supply on the L/V side has a 20 pin connector which plugs into the motherboard and the on/off switch or button on the front of your P/C plugs into the motherboard.....there is a connection via printed circuit..So when you turn on the switch in front the circuit is completed out thru the motherboard to the on/off switch and back thru the motherboard to the L/V control device in the power supply and away it goes ....
If you research which pins on the P/S 20 pin plug connect to the front switch via the printed circuit and jumper them out then the fan in the power supply should start up and you can meter the L/V outputs and rule out the P/S as the problem....
BTW.....you never said if your computer was on when the storm went through.
Let us know

dl65 not sure if it was on during the storm, it does boot up on its on from time to time so it could have. was at work during the storm.hobbs.....what do you mean ......"it does boot up on its on from time to time so it could have." Do you mean you have it set up to "awaken" with LAN activity ?

dl65 well got it back up, went by computer store and bought a cheap power supply. Hooked it up and everything is working. Got to get a higher voltage though tomorrow. As far as the booting up, i have not a clue as to why it boots up on its on. i usually just shut it back down when it does. Dont know bout the lan activity, never set it up for that. Would that be in the router set up page?hobbs....I think power supplies are rated in watts.....You should be looking for one thats at least 300 watts .....more would be better .
I think , if memory serves me that the LAN ......wake up setting is in Bios.......

Glad the problem wasn't any more than the power supply..

dl65 yea, my old one was 450 watts, bought a cheap 300 watt, goin to trade it in on a higher one. thanks again for the troubleshootin!

So basically I downloaded halo since it came out early to play with my friends who’ve been EAGERLY waiting. I ran the beta of the game perfect no problems at all great everything FPS was good. For some reason I have issues running the released version of it and it’s running my cpu at 100% and I only played for a LITTLE bit maybe a match. At most. My computer just powers off on it own as if I lost power in my house. I wait a bit maybe it over hearted I wasn’t 100% sure. Anyways I turn it back on and tried again but within the Minute it does the same thing before I even OPEN any kind of application. I wait even longer and I can run my computer trying to figure out what’s wrong and I try a different game and I’ve never had issues with this game prior to this event but now it runs very bad with AWFUL FPS and it’s just a struggle. At this point it’s been two days I’ve tried so many things checked all of the drivers uninstalled windows and reinstalled it. I got it to run for like 2 hours today trying to stress test it and was working okay is for a while. But then I try the game Ryse son of ROME. I can’t even get 30 FPS with this older game at low settings on the graphics quality. I run the game maybe like 15 mins and then again my computer just shuts down. Please does anyone know what I can do? I have no idea what’s wrong with my computer I have a 3070 graphics card and an AMD 3600 cpu 16 gigs of ram and plenty of room on my SSD as well. After running halo infinite which ran my cpu up to 100% for some reason my computer just stopped working basically4 possible conditions can cause this.

#1 reaching a thermal condition equal to or beyond 85C (or temperature value set in bios where system is set to shut down if reached ) where the system shuts itself down to avoid destruction of the CPU
#2 cooling fan RPM ( tach pulse ) is lost and so it doesnt see fan spinning to cool CPU and it just shuts down without warning. Cooling fan is dying or intermittent tach is sensed.
#3 power supply drops below the minimal voltage of operation for a voltage rail and it shuts down or stays on with black screen.
#4 microfracture in a trace that when system warms up the connection opens and causes a fail condition in that an open circuit is created.

I'd install speedfan or some other temperature monitoring software and see where all your temperatures are at. If any fans are groaning or making vibration swap them out prior to power supply swap. Lastly would be to swap out the PSU if a spare is available that can run on that system to see if that corrects this.

I run xp and I have a canon imageclass mpc190 (scanner, copier and printer).It has a usb connection. I keep having PROBLEMS with it. If I want to WORK with the video or digital cameras the printer must be off and the printer won't work if these devices are connected. Also when I have the printer only connected the scanner plays up tells me - action can't be completed because the other program is busy. CHOOSE "switch to" activate the busy program and correct the problem.What other busy program there isn't any. Please help
Jane ...how many USB ports do you have on the P/C and are they all enabled ....?

let us KNOW

dl65 i have two usb ports in the computer one has the modem in it and the other has a four port usb hub in it. as FAR as i know when i go into device manager it tells me i have conexant usb network interface, generic usb hub, 2 usb root hubs and 2 rev5 or later usb universal host controller. these are all enabled.

Lenovo G710
Intel Pentium
Nvidia 820m
For few weeks now i’ve been trying to get my GPU back. It disappeared after automatic windows update and never came back. I’ve loaded previous versions of Windows, didn’t help.
I flashed the Bios with the same(latest) version it already had(bios is for win8.1 but it is latest....). I got rid of all graphics related drivers with DDU and reinstalled them. Nothing.

Getting very desperate already since i’ve tried everything i could’ve think of. Anyone have any INSIGHT?
Is the GPU fried, so should i get a new motherboard?
If you performed a CLEAN install and GPU still acting up its likely just a coincidence that the GPU failed around the time of last update. If your laptop has a HDMI or VGA port to it I'd CONNECT it to an external display to verify that its actually the GPU dropping out and not just the display of the laptop itself. If you have no problems on an external monitor its then likely that the INTERNAL laptop display is partially dead where it can sync to DOS or Installer display and then when it goes higher res it drops out etc.

I recently purchased a dual monitor KVM for my desktop and laptop. Have hooked everything up and Laptop works fine, however when I switch to the desktop, 1 screen wakes, runs the Dell BIOS screen and then goes blank. I can see the mouse pointer, but the SECOND monitor does not wake up to show the login screen. The second screen set-up is VGA to HDMI ADAPTOR RUN to HDMI port on KVM and then KVM HDMI to monitor HDMI. The VGA/HDMI adaptor is POWERED via USB. When the Desktop is run directly to the monitors, INCLUDING the VGA/HDMI adaptor is works fine. Any ideas?

Hi,
I'm having some trouble with my onboard sound and I am hoping SOMEONE can help me.
I have a Gigabyte motherboard (GA7N400-L) which I bought about 8 months ago.
The right hand speaker has started to get really bad static interference. The left hand speaker is fine.
I tested that it wasn't the speakers by PLUGGING in my headphones, which get the exact same problem.
The speakers when plugged into the CDin do fine.
The static is mostly constant and quite strong, and sometimes seems to have regular beats in it.
Whenever I roll my mouse wheel I get very strong squeaking interference from the speaker.
Does anyone have any idea why this is happening?
Thanks very much

VanderveckenVandervecken....I assume this is something that just started ........Have you updated any drivers recently? Have you checked the small cable which runs from the cd drive to either the motherboard or your sound card ?

let us KNOW ......

dl65 I reinstalled the latest nForce 2 sound drivers today and the hum disappeared. By evening it was back.
The cable from the Mobo to the CD is fine. The distortion COMES regardless of whether the hard drive or the CD is playing, but the direct CD line didn't have this problem.Vandervecken.....Is it possible to try your sound card in another P/C.........if the sound is OK then your card is ok if not the card may be breaking down.
Let us know.

dl65 Unfortunately its onboard sound...Vandervecken....oops you did say sound was onboard....
ok ...then do you have a pci sound card you could plug in .....then disable the onboard sound and see if the problems still there ? Maybe borrow one from a friend .

dl65

Our school has some Compaqs donated by a law center. They took out the hard drives and we cannot get the computers to RECOGNIZE new hard drives 40GB, 166. Tried to find specs on the compaq site, all I can find is 2.0GB hard drives listed for these DeskPro 2000 computers. Do you know if they can handle any larger hard drives? Are they worth adding a hard drive or should they be scrapped? hp SAY yes there are fixes for it to handle 30gig>read more>http://h18000.www1.hp.com/support/files/deskpro/us/download/9260.html:)Thanks, Merlin. I've been looking for an answer for 4 months! I've downloaded the fix for a CD to use on the computers.Can't get the computer to load the CD with drivers. In trying to fdisk there are no partitions to delete, yet it will not CREATE partitions...no room. It will not format...format not supported. It will not load Windows. Any other suggestions?I have since loaded the diagnostic download on a floppy in the exe mode...and downloaded the fix for older models yet still have the startup disk error. The computer is up and running! After updating the bios, I had to clear the CMOS then update the CMOS and then load the operating system.
Thanks for your input!!

Hi, I'd like to ask for your help. For the last month or so, I've been experiencing a completely random fps DROP from 250 to 20 for a second here and there and it's always a microlag and it can really piss me off. Never had this happen to me before. I don't know what it could absolutely be, temps are perfectly fine, oc gpu none, I tried uninstalling drivers, running pc antivirus and nothing helped at all. My game always runs smoothly at around 200fps and every now and then it drops like this it's not regular, it's always really completely random as ever. I play at a "high level" and I do a lot of competetive and every such fps drop really sucks for me in some situations.

i5 9400F ( fan cpu Spartan 3 PRO HE1024)
GTX 1660 SUPER
16GB DDR4 2666
Patriot Burst, 2,5" - 960GB
MSI H310M PRO-VDH PLUS
be quiet 500w 80+ bronze
Evolveo T3I forgot to add, it's doing this to me in league of legendsThe PSU looks to be the WEAK link in that setup...borrow a quality one to test.Hello, thanks for the reply
Could there really be a fault in the psu ?
Lots of people are happy with it and have a much more powerful pc build.
For other games I never have any fps drops (assassins creed VALHALLA, New World, Borderlands3 etc.. ) See my SUGGESTIONI'd stress test the hardware. My favorite is the Passmark 14-day trial. Run it through all tests and multiple times and see that the results show close results each time run for about 10 full tests back to back to really heat it up good and draw heavy from the power supply.

I had a system that tapped out when it was running the DirectX 12 test with it black screening and boot loop after the 4th test back to back and it was my power supply not able to keep up with the heavy draw of my high end at the time video card of a GTX 780 Ti.

https://www.passmark.com/products/performancetest/index.php

Hey, thanks for the advice.
I ran 10 tests in a row and there was no problem, I tried to follow every step by step but I didn't notice anything, no fps drops, no stutter everything ran smoothly every test and temperatures still fine too.

https://gyazo.com/39ac520ac20c6973f48fa209aa4e1a67@patio
Why do you think the Be quiet! System Power 9 - 500W 80 + bronze bad ? A lot of people who know about pc's have recommended it to me in terms of price/performance The only thing was that I could take 600w instead of 500w if I wanted to do an upgrade in the futureInteresting.... I was expecting the DirectX 12 testing to trigger the problem as it really makes the Videocard work full tilt and pulls heavily from the power supply. I connected one of those Kill-a-Watt devices to my computer when running this benchmark and its amazing how DirectX 12 pulls far heavier power draw than the prior DirectX tests that are bundled in with the testing of that Passmark benchmark software. Gaming system I have pulled like 370 watts on the DirectX 11 test, and then when it runs DirectX 12 it pulled continuous 465 watts during the test. Then when test was over it came to rest at 140-160 watts idle as the systems Cool n' Quiet kicked in and underclocked the CPU and GPU went to rest idle state.

You mentioned: "For other games I never have any fps drops (assassins creed valhalla, New World, Borderlands3 etc.. )"

This kind of problem your probably going to have to swap parts until you find cause as it can be just a combination of hardware that randomly doesnt play well with LoL. Not the answer anyone ever wants to hear when faced with a problem like this. It might make more sense to run League of Legends on a different computer that has a continuous frame rate that is acceptable and LoL doesnt have any heavy hardware requirements, and so a cheap solution vs replacing higher end components at a cost may be to buy a refurb or put in use a computer already available or from a friend their older computer that is capable of playing LoL at an ok framerate. The power supply swap that Patio suggested is the cheapest component to try a swap of to see if it cures it, but with it running 10 iterations of DirectX 12 and no hiccups its starting to look like an issue with LoL and hardware combination such as a Videocard or Driver Bug with LoL.

Myself, if I had this issue with just the one game and I didnt want to buy parts at a cost of that it "could" fix the issue or might not, I'd get a 2nd computer that is capable of running it that has a different videocard and possibly driver combination as refurb computers these days are so cheap and the Intel HD Graphics of the Core i3, i5, and i7's is actually not that bad if you dont need the games to be run on max resolution and frame rates over 60fps. My girlfriend plays LoL on her Core i5-4590 Dell Optiplex 7020 Tower with 8GB RAM and 256GB SSD + 1TB HDD running Windows 10 64-bit and she is getting 60fps last I checked on the Intel HD 4600 Graphics. we picked up this computer refurb from Amazon last christmas for $119.00Thank you for your reply.
I'd rather just be interested in how it would be resolved if I replaced the power supply, since nothing crashes with much more demanding games. I didn't feel anything during the test you posted either.
I really don't see what the problem could be anymore, I've had this pc for a year and it only started to go wrong this month.

I guess I'm being naive, but couldn't the monitor be at fault somehow as well? Also the thing is that I don't want to invest in another computer at the moment, I used to play for a long time on a 75hz monitor and it was not enough for me, I'm currently using 144hz and 60 fps is really not enough for me in league of legends, so I bought a better computer to use the monitor to the fullest and as I wrote, I'm also doing a lot of
competetive gaming and I need everything to work stable. My friend has a much worse computer ( some 1050ti and an i3) and plays on basically the same graphics settings, but never has any glitches..

I really don't know, I'll probably try again to reinstall the gpu drivers and completely delete the whole game + config and re-download.The monitor will only display what the video card sends to it and so I don't believe it to be the monitor as it only shows whats sent from the video card in real time. *There is a refresh rate that monitors have, but never seen one with a lagging refresh rate to simulate a video card lag before. If you have another display kicking around that can run at the settings that you like, you can try that route, but i don't see the monitor as the cause just because I've yet to ever see a monitor as the cause for lag that is intermittent as well as ... selectively only happens with League of Legends as for a hardware failure with a monitor wouldn't be selective to a game when other games are more demanding than LoL.

Sorry I am unable to be of further assistance on this matter, but i will keep an eye out for if you have further questions on this. It truly is a very strange issue in that its only LoL and a hardware/driver combination with that game I feel.I will be changing my motherboard, I will be installing ASRock B365M Pro4
Maybe this will solve the problem somehow, after all I have been advised more than once to CHANGE the motherboard, because the one I currently have is designed more for an office pc and is not good for gaming
Anyway, thank you very much.I'm on my sixth day of playing with a new monitor that has 144Hz and is g-sync compatible because the old one didn't suit me and this one has a much nicer picture and overall a lot more features and not once have I noticed any fps drop or image tearing when playing on this monitor, how is that possible?

Hi, can anyone help please,

My Asus ZenPad tablet; has stopped working; I am able to boot it into safe mode, but then only have the option to 'reboot system now' or 'wipe data/factory reset' to factory settings. I have read that re-setting to factory settings may solve the problem, but I need to rescue some files first. Does anyone know if there is a chance of doing this on an Android? I hooked it up to my PC but it is not showing any files.

Any help appreciated, thanksIf your able to boot to SAFEMODE and have a MicroSD card inserted if it has one, you MIGHT be able to backup to MicroSD and then remove microSD and then factory reset.Hi DaveLembke,

Thanks for your reply, I do have an SD card, but not certain how I can download to it. I can GET into safe mode, that ALLOWS me to boot up (as does the on button currently), but then it just KEEPS alerting me to what programs and processes are not able to run, then it seems pretty unresponsive. So doesn't seem like any opportunity to download anything.The ZenPad Manual will have a guide to backups and factory restore...

Hi. I have a Gigabyte board Z370M D3H. Primary drive with Win10 OS is an SSD, secondary is a 4TB storage drive.

Computer has operated fine for 2 years since build.
It does turn on and run with Windows 10 quite fine. But it lags. slows, then crashes at some random point. Re-starts and tells me to select different drive to boot.
When crashing and re-starting and opening the BIOS, I cannot find the SSD with operating system as the SSD disappears from BIOS options.

A quick unplug from wall and re-start and SSD re-appears but now, as the secondary drive so just selecting the SSD as the Primary drive fixes this. Until 20 minutes later when a random crash and we go back to Square One.

I have swapped SATA ports on the board but can't try a new cable - could it be this simple as a cable issue?

I have seen the Gigabyte driver page but there are 40-50 drivers to choose, some for SATA issues, could this be a fix? I don't want to create new issues.

PC works fine around this issue.

Thanks for any hints/tips.
Thinking either the SSD is FAILING on you or the power supply is dipping in voltage and causing system to mess up and then the SSD to go out to lunch. I would download Crystal Disk Info and see what the health of the SSD is. If the SSD is reporting with a failure it will show in yellow or red with the issues. If it passed the Crystal Disk Info check then I would look into swapping out the SSD ANYWAYS with another healthy drive and see if the problem goes away just in case the issue is not being recorded in its S.M.A.R.T data. If problem continues with a different drive and this original SSD removed from the system I would then go the path of power supply replacement as I have had a borderline power supply before CAUSE this exact issue to occur with one or my Core I5 systems. For that system it started off crashing with HDD and SSD pair. I removed the HDD and had it only on SSD and it crashed. I then placed HDD in and no SSD and would get same results. Swapped out the Dell power supply and then problem resolved. Was able to put the drives back in and ran fine.

My computer shuts down after the motherboard(MSI) screen shows up at start up but when I TURN the pc on for the second time it STARTS up NORMALLY with no problems. Does anyone know what could be causing this?
for information this problem does not always happen

CONFIG :
GIGABYTE AORUS GeForce RTX 3060
RYZEN 7 5800X
MSI MPG X550 GAMING PLUS
Corsair-Vengeance 3600 Mhz DDR4 2X8Go
Cooler Master MWE 750 Gold V2
NVME PNY 500Go(WINDOWS 10 installed) C:
SSD KONGSTON 500Go D:

Thank you in advance for your help.
Hi

What Bios VERSION is your motherboard ?

Thanks

Hello,
When I start my computer I could see LOTS of uneven colour dots in my screen.
I have LG MONITOR.
I someone have solution for this please repond.

Thanks
Vikneshtype dxdiag in the run box and what INFO it comes up with...it maybe thta you need the boot floppy DRIVER for your monitor the res maybe out the graphics card MAY need an update driver the refresh rate maybe out etc...the monitor may be faulty...more info on what system you are using....