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I have a EMACHINE that was downloading norton updates ( may not be related to the issue ) and then shut down. Now there is no power. Changed the power supply and power cord, the led on the mother board comes on but still when hitting the power button I get nothing. Checked all the connections and they are good. Im thinking the cmos battery or the motherboard. Is the cmos even a possiblity or could it be the power button connections WRONG. But Im not sure.If you have two RAM sticks, try booting with just one at a time. Try booting without any RAM and also with the hard disk (and any other drives) disconnected. Take the front cover off your PC - this should EXPOSE the power button, make sure it is clicking correctly when you SWITCH the PC on. If you have a spare PC, try using your RAM in that to test it. Also try connecting your hard disk as a slave.
You have ALREADY ruled out a faulty PSU, if you can also rule out faulty RAM and HDD, it will be either the CPU or motherboard that is at fault.I ran into the same error before. Okay try takeing out the RAM if you get a beep from the MotherBoard its Okay if not it probably got fried. Then try one RAM stick at a time if you see anything one of them is bad, if nothing shows up your CPU is dead and should be handled with care when you put in a new one. Hope that helps.

I can't say I really KNOW what the problem on my computer is... but here is whats going on.

Operating System:
Microsoft Windows XP Professional
System Manufacturer:
NVIDIA
Processor:
AMD Athlon 64 Processor 3500+, MMX, 2DNow, ~2.2GHz
Memory
1022MB RAM
Video Card:
ATI Radeon X1300 Series
Hard Drive:
100GB (c:/)
40GB (d:/)
MONITOR:
Plug and Play Monitor
Sound Card:
Realtek AC97 Audio


I just got a new Samsung "SyncMaster 730B" LCD monitor for Christmas with a DVI cable hookup. I plugged it into my computer and had a little trouble getting it to connect by digital because it kept trying to go to analog. Once it was working, I tried to play Counter Strike Source and about 5 minutes into the game, my screen went black and my computer froze. I couldn't ctrl-alt-del out of anything so I hit the power button. I decided to let my computer sit for a while and restart it, but now it won't even connect to the new monitor.
I tried connecting my old CRT monitor to it and the same thing happened (its an analog connection). Got into the game, about 5 minutes later, screen went black and my computer froze.
I finally decided to look into my computer and see if I had any loose connections or if all my fans were working.. and I found out that one of the fans on my power supply wasn't running. I know I need to GET a new power supply but I was also wondering if (1) does an LCD monitor with DVI require a bigger power supply? (2) What size power supply would be good for my computer with the current equipment I have in it? (3) Would the power supply be my ultimate problem or would that just be "the icing on the CAKE" so to speak?

Thank you for your time,
LisaWhat size PSU do u have in it now?1. i do not believe so, as the monitor has its own power source independent of the computer.

2. at the least a 300W power supply. i would, however, recommend a 500W power supply, for it leaves room for expansion.

3. no guarantees, it is either your PSU or your graphics card. SINCE you are getting a new PSU anyway, it would be wise to see if the new PSU fixed the problem before buying a new graphics card.

Just finished building my first comp, I have pretty good computer knowledge... but cant figure this one out.

I startup for the first time, and the fans all spin and bios boots up, I've successfully built a living comp right? NO WAY, within 1 minute the case goes dark and the fans stop and the comp dies. I try to boot a couple more times and the comp shuts down sooner each time.

Sound like a CPU overheating, but it couldn't that quickly right? Only other thought is that there isnt enough power, but im not running that much gear.

Ideas Anyone!??

Runnning an ASUS p5N-E SLI with a core2 duo. I have a radeon 512 MB, 4gb of 800 dimm, avg HD and DVD rom. 430W thermaltake power supply and case.

hmmm a 430w PSU should be perfectly fine for that comp, and your right about the CPU, it could not possibly be overheating THAT quickly. it is my belief that the computer is shutting itself down to avoid damage due to improper connections or faulty hardware. now, the quickest and easiest thing to do first, is to check that everything is connected properly. check each and every cable that is plugged into the motherboard, make sure that they are all plugged into the correct spot according to the motherboards manual. if you cannot find any errors, then we can move on into testing the hardware.

the first piece of hardware i SUSPECT would be your RAM. you say that you have 4gb of DDR2 800, so i can safetly assume that you have at least 2 sticks if not 4. remove all but one stick of RAM. try booting the computer using that one stick of RAM. if the computer boots and stays running, then one or more of the two or three other sticks of RAM is faulty. if your comp dies again, try another stick of RAM, do this for all 2 or 4 if you have to.

please post back if you are confused about any of this or the above advice does not work.Its possible that one of you connections is right. Check them and if that doesn't work you mite need more cooling try getting a bigger Heatsink if the problem is still there.Did you use all the MBoard standoffs in your assembly ? ?
As Homer asked have you checked all the connections ? ?
Did you remember to use thermal paste when assembling the fan/heatsink combo ? ?

All of these things will produce the conditions you describe here...OK, so i got the initial problem solved... my cpu was overheating due to a poor cpu/heatsink connection (cheesy intel heatsink pins).

Now I got into BIOS and setup to boot, put in my XP CD, and went to load the OS.

Only problem was that my DVD ROM failed to initialize.

I got to the stage where i selected to "begin windows setup from CD" selected the option, then waited for the setup to begin.... Drive not detected = FRUSTRATION...

Any ideas?


BTW thanks for teh help on the CPU problem!!Quote

OK, so i got the initial problem solved... my cpu was overheating due to a poor cpu/heatsink connection

Only problem was that my DVD ROM failed to initialize.

Help!!!

there's a problem with my external hard disk (PREZMATE 2.5" 250GB (USB2.0))

when i switch it on and connect it to my laptop,
both the "Device manager" and "safely remove hardware" can detect it and shows that it is working properly.

however when i OPEN "my Computer" i either cannot see the ext hard disk drive or the 'My Computer" window hangs ("Not Responding")

In the past, this Ext HDD was working fine previously with the same laptop and computer...

the Ext HDD has it's own POWER source....

I've tried to troubleshoot (by updating the driver (states that the driver i'm using is most recent) disabling and enabling the device in the device manager, when try to uninstall device in device manager, it hang "Not Responding")

I looked at the Computer management again, and this is what happen after a long time i see the ext harddisk at the bottom "Disk 1, Unknown, Unreadable"

when i check the properties, everything looks fine except the "Volume" tab

Disk: Disk1
Type: Unknown
Status: Unreadable
Partition Style: Not Applicable
Capacity: 0MB
Unallovated space: 0MB
Reserved space: 0MB


I looked up the status Unreadable in the Help,

"A basic or dynamic disk's status is Unreadable.
Cause: The basic or dynamic disk is not accessible and might have experienced hardware failure, corruption, or I/O errors. The disk's copy of the system's disk configuration database might be corrupted. An error icon appears on disks that display the Unreadable status.

Disks might also display the Unreadable status while they are spinning up or when Disk Management is rescanning all of the disks on the system. In some CASES, an unreadable disk has failed and is not recoverable. For dynamic disks, the Unreadable status usually results from corruption or I/O errors on part of the disk, rather than failure of the entire disk.

Solution: Rescan the disks or restart the computer to see if the disk status changes."

I tried that, didn't work.... is there anyone here who can help me? PLEASE?! Sounds like the disk has died. If you don't have any data on there, I would try formatting with Computer Management.

Otherwise, I would try taking it apart, removing the disk and connecting it as a slave to a desktop machine. You'll need a 2.5" IDE to 3.5" IDE Convertor for this.I'd follow nick's suggestion and try connecting it to the internal IDE cable and power and see if it'll work. If it works ok, the fault could be in the box in the small piece of hardware used to convert the IDE interface on the drive to the USB interface. If that's the case, simply putting it in a new box should help.

Some things to check:

Can you hear or feel the drive spinning?

Some cases have a 'read/write' light. Does yours? And does it come on at any point?

Has the drive suffered any kind of physical shock? (i.e. dropping, bouncing around in a bag, etc.)hi,

Nick sorrie but i don't really get your meaning... how do i "connecting it as a slave to a desktop machine. You'll need a 2.5" IDE to 3.5" IDE Convertor for this."

Sorrie i'm quite an IT Idiot...

Quaxo, when it's on i can feel the fan spinning, but when the fan is switched off and the HDD is switched on, there's a blue light that is on but there's no feel of spinning...

I think i dropped it a while back but it still worked TILL now...

Available at most Computer stores...bout 10 bucks.

Then sinply connect the drive tto a desktop machine.Okay I had the same error sort of, if you take out the harddrive and switch it with another one check the data cable an make sure it succured to the harddrive. If you dont try putting it in a working computer, I gusse its a slave so if its IDE you should be able to connect it with out any PROBLEMS to a pc that has IDE, or if its a SATA. If you dont see anything its dead try also connecting it with out the case and feel if its spining if you dont feel any thing its probably dead.Who's feeding the parrott's again ? ?

Hi All,

Having a problem with a client's PC - RAM specifically. It's an Intel P4, 3Ghz, Gigabyte 8IPE1000P2 M/Board with 4 DDR RAM slots and 3 of them occupied with 256meg cards. The machine was VERY slow to boot and run apps. Pretty much fixed that with tweaks, but the boot mem check SAYS it is running in single channel mode and has 1.5gb RAM, but the system and my diagnostic app says it only has 1gig. Thinking there was a problem with one of the cards I removed one of the three and it ran in dual channel mode but says it only has 512meg RAM. Played musical cards with the same result. I'm thinking there is a conflict or a faulty card. Curious as to why there are only 3 cards and not four. I have always thought RAM should be paired. Does anyone have any ideas?

CheersQuote

3 of them occupied with 256meg cards

I removed one of the three and it ran in dual channel mode but says it only has 512meg RAM.

boot mem check says it is running in single channel mode

... and has 1.5gb RAM

I have always thought RAM should be paired.

Sorry... typo... 3 x 512 meg cards installed

Yeah, that's where I was leaning.
Many thanks

I just bought a ASUS P5K and it will only boot exactly every other time I power it up. When it does not boot both LEDs stay lit and there is no video output. Any ideas on what is going on?By chance* do you have 4 gigs of ram installed ?I've had a similar problem with my wife's computer that I built earlier this year. It will come on but no video, no POST. I just turn it off/on a couple of TIMES and it works. Sometimes it's a P.I.T.A. but we just live with it. Contrary to popular belief...this isn't a perfect WORLD

honvetops - I only have 1G of RAM in her machine.

Alan &LT;>< Tag your it* I guess your right ...one of those THINGS... sometimes the 4 gigs throws things off. Thanks ...Allan

Hi,
I just bought a WD Passport 250 GByte external USB drive. Out of the box it is formatted as one 250Gig FAT32 partition. I decided to divide it into 2 PARTITIONS, one for Win and the other for Mac (I have a Win XP desktop and a MacBook laptop). The partitioning WENT as planned, but the Win partition is formatted NTFS which the Mac doesn't like and the Mac partition I fortmatted as Mac OS Extended which Win doesn't like.
Big mistake ! I realise now that is not what I wanted because Macs can't work with NTFS and Win can't work with Mac formatting. So, I want to go back to the whole drive being a single partition in FAT32 which would be accessible from both machines.
Can anyone please tell me how I can do that ? Format the whole drive as a 250 Gig FAT32. When, in Computer Management, I try to create a single partition, it makes it NTFS by default, not what I want.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
I would use the Data Lifeguard tools from WD to accomplish this ...prepare it as a new drive and you will be given a choice early on to select FAT32....

There are some issues with those drives containing built in DRM protections...I'd suggest DO NOT install the software that ships with the drive.

The Data Lifeguard tools will not do this so you are safe there. DLoad them from WD's site FREE.

More Reading on that drive and the DRM protections issue...Thanks a lot Patio. That set me in the RIGHT direction. The Data Lifeguard Tools are useful but still would not allow me to do what I wanted and that was a single 250 GB FAT32 partition. Digging further into that same website though I came across exactly what I needed, a formatting utility specifically to RESTORE a WD external drive back to its single FAT32 partition. A quick download, install and run and there I am, back to the original state.
Thanks for your guidance.
J
I don't understand how the Data Lifeguard tool would not work but i'm glad to hear you are fixed up...The Data Lifeguard Tools conformed to the WinXP limitation of max 32G partition in FAT32. If I specified a partition greater than 32G it automatically set NTFS as the format so my single 250G partition COULD only be NTFS. Obviously WD appreciate this limitation since they do provide a special formatter to make the whole hdd FAT32. I found that eventually and am "fixed up" as you say. Thanks.
J

I reinstalled windows on my c drive. All my info was backed up on my second hard drive () Now clicking on d drive in windows explorer I get the message that ":d drive needs to be formatted". Wont that delete all my backed up files. Is there any other WAY to retrieve this data?Yes.
Formatting will get rid of everything on that drive and/or make it pretty hard to retrieve...
But we need more info here...
Is D a 2nd physical HDD or an additional partition ?
Was there a POWER failure or a spike involved here ?
Has there been any other hardware/software installed recently ?

What TYPE of Windows CD was used here ?

Right click My Computer and select Manage.
Choose Drive management.
Right click the D: partition/drive and select Properties...
Report back with all the info.This is a second hard drive, not a partition. No spikes or additional hardware added. I'm running Windows XP. Right clicking on properties type; local disk file system; RAW used 0 bytes FREE 0 bytes This don't look good does it?What OS did you use to back up all your info? (what OS did you use before re installing Windows?)


A HD with the RAW format cannot be read by Windows.
For example, if you PREVIOUSLY formatted that HD for a Linux filesystem (EXT2 or EXT3), Windows will not be able to read the disk, and will indeed say that it needs formatting.Sounds like it was an external drive unhooked improperly...

But you're right...RAW is not a good sign.
You could give some data recovery programs a try but keep in mind the more you use the drive the further you are away from possibly saving anything...I used Windows XP before to back up my files and then I reinstalled Windows XP. The D: drive was working fine before I reinstalled and never physically disconnected it. What type of data recovery programs do you suggest?
PS this site is great and you people are the best thank you so much Did you format C? If nothing is on C try formating it. If you have maxtor 4 or Maxblast 4 try formating c then reinstall windows. Try also reconnecting the cables to the drive so that there secured into it. Quote from: squall_01 on December 21, 2007, 01:40:50 PM

Did you format C? If nothing is on C try formating it. If you have maxtor 4 or Maxblast 4 try formating c then reinstall windows. Try also reconnecting the cables to the drive so that there secured into it.

Hi, bought a new pc/monitor combo TODAY, 20 inch flatscreen lcd monitor. everything was fine until a couple of hours ago...after booting up, the monitor DISPLAYS fine, but after a minute or so, it switches to a 'bad' display- colours and brightness go haywire-very, very bright and very washed out. Altering the contrast etc has no effect. Checked the monitor cable, all looks ok, no bent pins etc.

Advice and help welcome!!
cheers
steveI SUGGEST you try the monitor on another computer. If it still does the same you've most likely got a defective monitor.Well what I have done is try my old monitor in place of the new ONE and THAT displays the same problem now....weird....makes me think its something ITO do with the new pc then???It could sound like a defective graphics card then.
Did you alter any display settings before this happened?


...or video card drivers got corrupted.

I have a Dell DIMENSION 5100 running Windows XP pro. Recently had the power supply fail and replaced it and thought all was well. It has both CD & DVD drives. Last night I discovered that neither is recognized as being there. They both have power and will light up and open etc. They were both originally set to “CABLE select”. Nothing was changed except the power supply. I’ve tried a new cable to no avail and tried different settings on the drives (i.e.: master, slave). The COMPUTER does not seem to recognize them as being there at all. The drives were not in use when the power supply failed but were working fine before that. Any suggestions?
Tim
Even though Windows does not see them, does the BIOS see them there?No. Not in the bios either!Remove one of the drives...hook up the remaining one jumpered as master and connected to the end of the IDE ribbon cable.
Do a few cold boots and then check to see if the BIOS is picking it up now...

If so check to see it works in Windows...if so power down and add the second one as slave and repeat the process.

Sometimes the BIOS gets confused adding more than one device at a time and will not recognise drives properly.

If the above does NOT work you will have to test the drives one at a time in another machine to make sure they didn't get zapped... GOT it working!
I found in the bios that the IDE controler was turned off. The HARDDRIVE is SATA so it wasnt affected. No idea how it got turned off but everthing SEEMS to be working now! Thanks guys for the help!
Tim

I have been having a problem with my sound for the last 6 months or so. I will be PLAYING a sound file and suddenly my computer goes silent. It makes no noises at all, not even the system noises like the clicks when I open a new window, my message alert sounds, or the sound when a file finishes downloading. The sound will start playing just as suddenly as it stops, then it will cut off again. I have had periods where it will be fine for days or weeks at a time, and then it starts acting up again and it might do this every couple of minutes. I have found that if I either "tap" on the tower somewhere or jostle it back and forth a LITTLE bit, (or give it a whack, depending on my frustration level) then that causes it to come back on, sometimes to stay on for the duration of what I'm doing, other times it will come on and go right back off. It is very consistent that when I tap or shake the tower, it at least shows signs of life as far as the sound sputtering on and off or staying on. I am an idiot when it comes to hardware issues but would I be correct in assuming this is a bad sound card that needs to be replaced? Is there anything else it could be? I have followed the instructions as far as making sure it's not my speakers, the fact that it responds to me touching the tower makes it seem like something is loose in there or something is shorting out but I wanted to ask for advice to see if anyone had ever had this problem and if there would be anything else for me to check? It seems to be getting worse in the last month or so and it is driving me crazy. My PC is an IBM pentium 4 with Windows XP and the sound card is from SoundMAX if any of that matters. Thanks!When the sounds goes off, try moving the cable jack where it plugs into your sound card, rather than hitting the pc. This should indicate whether or not it is a faulty cable, jack or socket.
Its probably worth opening the pc and re-seating the sound card too.NEVER hit the PC it will cause futher problems. Try another set of speakers if you have any this will tell you if the speakers you had were bad. If you don't try getting an electronic cleaner and spray a small amount into the PC connector the speakers connect to and plug the speakers in and remove the CONNECTION an reconnect them to remove any dirt that is on the jack or in the sound card. Quote from: nickc1976 on December 21, 2007, 02:19:20 AM

When the sounds goes off, try moving the cable jack where it plugs into your sound card, rather than hitting the pc. This should indicate whether or not it is a faulty cable, jack or socket.
Its probably worth opening the pc and re-seating the sound card too.

I don't even know enough to know where the sound card is,

"cable jack where it plugs into the sound card." Is that in the back like where the speakers plug in

SoundMAX Integrated Digital Audio.

Thanks!

OK so if I understand correctly

1) I currently a 40 GIG hardrive?

2) What I am looking for is something which can store my files and settings so that if Armageddon happens to my computer, I can simply restore all files and previous settings onto another computer.
-Is this POSSIBLE?
-If so, which product is BEST and why?
External HDD
Internal HDD
Image Copier

3) Do I have this right?
-An external HDD will save all of my files that I ask it to?
-Can it save the settings I have for windows or just files?
-How does this work in terms of
If Armageddon happens and I need to restore
Also you said you can't simply PLUG it into another computer and go, well then what do I do if I have my HDD with me on the road? What does the HDD let me do on another computer, can I access files and settings? What about on a new HD, can I simply plug it in and have it boot up all data and settings I made?

4) Is the internal HDD the same or how does it vary?

5) How does the image copier vary?
-Do you simply save everything to it, then boot it to a blank CD?
-Can you access it on road CPUs?

6) Essentially if you could explain what an external, internal HDD is, image copier, PROS, cons, how they work, and relate to my usage in laymans terms THAT would be superb.

Thanks.
?Try and revisit my previous post above...
Post back with what you don't understand.Thank you very much!

So...y=mx+B, because I am a big methodical guy, can we summarize this.

1) I would like to be able to have all my files saved in case the CPU crashes.
I would like to be able to have my desktop settings kept as well, this way if I must reformat, I can have all documents kept and won't have to spend HOURS configuering the desktop.
I got a little OCD and this would drive me CRAZY.

2) You suggest what I do is:
Purchase a backup harddrive
Purchase a ghost image copier
Update once a week

3) In doing this will I be able to achieve my goal of having all files, settings, desktop, ready to reinstall should the CPU crash as LONG as I update them often?

OR

4) I only need new Ghost, I don't need an external, or do I need both.

Thanks.The external is simply a matter of convienence...an internal is not that difficult to hook up...2 wires and 2 screws.
But shop around for the best deal...
As far as the image program some people use Ghost but i highly recommend Acronis True Image
Newegg.com currently has the best deal on it or you can DLoad a trial version directly from Acronis website.
You can practice with it for 30 days and it will do everything but restore an image but at least you can get familiar with it's features.

Best of Luck and let us know...Thanks...so to repeat...I need both for my purposes?

ok will try that, thanks. I've a long shift today so it prob. wont be until late or even 2morrow B4 I try it, but I will try that.thanksSorry I took so long to get back. Thanks to all for the helpful SUGGESTIONS. I ENDED up bringing it to a local "computer fix it" and found out there was nothing I could have done to fix it.....there was quite a few little metal toy pieces FLOATING around inside some how. Thinking my son stuffed it into the computer through the fan or something. Thanks again for the help.It sounds UGLY...grrrrrrr....Thanks for posting back.

My canon printer- the Pixma 760 just started not printing anything from the black 3e tank. It will print all the other COLORS and black from the 6 tank- just not text from 3e. I've deep cleaned the nozzle several times, replaced the ink cartridge and contacted Canon who was not very helpful other than offering that I should buy another Canon printer. On the nozzle check it does not EVEN try to print from the 3e, seems almost if there is a problem possibly in the software recognizing that color but I'm not sure. Any input would be greatly appreciated before I have to go buy a new printer! THANK you.
Did you try to uninstall/reinstall printer, update/reinstall drivers, disconnect printer from POWER source, and computer for a few minutes, reconnect?Yes I did try to unplug/reinstall, ETC. Thank you for the suggestion thoughSame thing happens with self-test?

i am about to buy a gaming COMPUTER and want to know if you can USE a flat screen lcd TV rather than monitor ,if so why not buy a tv(say21"-22") over a monitor which would be DEARER?meaning i could spend more on computer i would strongly suggest a monitor.

Hello, I have a Windows XP service pack II COMPUTER and its speed is normal, but i have some problem that i am having.

First, I need to know that is there a way to clean my graphic/VIDEO card. Yes i know that it is a HARDWARE that is in side my computer, but i need to know if we can clean it. I have a software that can clean up my ram which is a "OK" software, works really well. When ever we play some kind of game, the game gets messed up, some times when they play in character then they go invisible.

Also that before i had 518 MB of ram...had a chance to download a Rogers antivirus but now, my ram is 128 MB of ram i don't know how it happened. So can any ONE please tell me how to make it back to normal.


Thank you Quote

I need to know that is there a way to clean my graphic/video card. .... I have a software that can clean up my ram ...

i had 518 MB of ram...had a chance to download a Rogers antivirus but now, my ram is 128 MB of ram

Hi y'all,

I bought this USB-cable to connect my external harddisk to one of my school's pc's, but somehow the computer doesn't recognize my baby (yeah, it's a d*mn good external harddisk, 120 GB ). I tried another cable, one of my teacher's and one of my classmates's, and it worked. So I figured it had to be the cable I bought. I returned the cable to the store where i bought it, and they told me it should work. They used the d*mn cable and somehow, it did is job on their computer without whining! The temperature outside is around 0 degrees, maybe these devices can't stand the cold. I think you'll understand I'm pretty pissed off right now; I have to use a d*mn back-up to do my work. I have a few options:

1: return the cable and demand my money back, so I'll have to continue using the back-up until I get a new cable (which looks the most logical thing to do right now).
2: ask one of the CH computer geniusses to HELP me with this.

I'd really appreciate it if one of you guys (or girls ) KNOW what the problem is, I wouldn't have to go back to the store to buy another one. The again, I'll get my money back, so it shouldn't be that hard to buy another cable. Anyway, if you are able to, please help!Is there any cable that came with the hard drive when you bought it? It should, I think. If it does then why bought a new USB cable?

Did a sale man try the cable on your hard drive or their own hard drive. You should bring your hard drive and let they try it.

Well, make sure you have the right USB cable. Buy a USB 2.0 rather than a USB 1.0. They both look and feel the same but one is faster than the other.

Have a happy holiday season.Quote from: DragonFly on December 20, 2007, 08:06:56 AM

Is there any cable that came with the hard drive when you bought it? It should, I think. If it does then why bought a new USB cable?

Did a sale man try the cable on your hard drive or their own hard drive. You should bring your hard drive and let they try it.

Well, make sure you have the right USB cable. Buy a USB 2.0 rather than a USB 1.0. They both look and feel the same but one is faster than the other.

Have a happy holiday season.

Hello,

I live in France and I recently got a second-hand server from England, which I connected to my screen, mouse & AZERTY keyboard. I've been trying to get into the BIOS to change a few settings, but the system just won't recognize the PASSWORD. I thought it might be due to the keyboard layout, so I TRIED typing the password in QWERTY, still no luck. Then I tried changing the keyboard LANGUAGE in the Windows Control panel, but the BIOS keeps saying that the password is invalid. I've also tried the backdoor passwords in case, but nothing works.

I was told that the BIOS would only understand a password typed in "UK mode". Now, I have no clue what that's supposed to mean. Is it that my keyboard is incompatible with the BIOS?

BIOS Properties:
Phoenix Technologies, LTD
Phoenix-Award BIOS v6.00PG
648FX-A Ver:1.0a 05/30/2003
6.00 PG
256 Ko

Motherboard:
05/30/2003-SiS-648-6A7I0E19C-00

Keyboard:
Standard 101/102-Key or Microsoft Natural PS/2 Keyboard5.1.2600.2180

Does anyone know how I could solve this? I'm not too keen on doing a CLEAR CMOS if it can be avoided.

Thank you!Remove the power cord from the wall.
Then remove a side panel or the case and remove the CMOS battery...it's about the size of a dime located on the MBoard.
Leave it out for 10 minutes and press the power switch a few TIMES to remove stored electricity.
Replace the battery and power up....you shouldn't need a password now.

I hooked up a 22" LCD to my Dell Vostro 1400 (with GeForce 8400M GS running VISTA Business) and use the LCD as an external display. Originally I used the Nvidia Control Panel to set it so that the primary display and single display used was the external LCD, which the control panel recognized fine. I could close the lid of my laptop and use the LCD as a monitor with no problems.

Recently, I went through some resolution ALTERING when SETTING up a game, and now whenever I close the lid of the laptop, I get a "out of range" problem on my LCD and no image shows up. However, opening the lid of the laptop allows the picture to come back on the LCD, although the laptop screen is black. I run the LCD at 1680x1050 at 59 HERTZ refresh and the laptop screen runs with a 1200x800 resolution at 60hz refresh (the LCD can display 60hz).

I tried System Restore and that didn't work. How can I get my external LCD working again with the laptop lid closed?

EDIT: I fixed the problem by booting into safe mode. While I didn't do anything in safe mode, when I rebooted normally, this problem went away.

My computer was acting very SLOW so I deleted alot of usless programs and deleted all my cookies, temp INTERNET files, and history. Afterwards, I did a spyware scan using bellsouths security suite. It deleted like 90 cookies, 50 temp files, and like 40 registry files. I then was told I needed to restart my pc for them to be completely removed. I then restarted my pc and it went to a black screen saying "Sorry for the inconvenience blah blah select how to enter WINDOWS..... Start in safe mode, start with net working, start with something, start at last working condition, and start windows normally." The problem is my keyboard wont let me select anything with the arrows or enter key. I tried adifferent keyboard and the same thing happened. I know its not the keyboard because I can hit f9 and f12 and goto options and the arrows and enter KEYS are working there. Also I have the g15 gaming keyboard and the lcd screen isnt lighting up. I dont knoe what to do. I popped in the restore disk but it says "press any key to continue." well... I cant press any key...

What do i do??? Im stuck at a start up screen and cant select anything....Are you able to use a PS/2 keyboard?

HTTP://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PS/2_connector

When I RUN maxtor all the color go differnt. But when I run anything else they seem to be okay. It's a Pentium 4 Socket 478, BioStar Board P4M80-M4, DDR RAM 1 GB, SATA Drives 160 GB 300 GB, HDA Digital X Mystique 7.1 GOLD, Radeon X1300.Is this the Maxtor that has had issues for the last month or so ? ?

I ment maxblast, same computer differnt problem. Thought it mite be the card since it shows up on other drives and I used other copys and it happened to them too.Quote

I used other copys

Put in a new hadrdreive turns out it was the bad drive causeing problems.

OK I really need your help

My computer is giving me the following message:

windows 2000 could not start because the following file is missing or currupt

\WINNT\SYSTEM32\CONF\SYSTEM

I insterded the dis and it give the following

A:\>

If your coputer is PREPARED for windows millenium setup please start setup by typing the following commands
ECHO IS OFF
X:
OEMSETUP.EXE
NOTE: x represents your cd room dirve letter look above for listings of a valid cd room drives

Drive D: driver OEMCD001 UNIT 0
Drive E: driver 11OEMCD001 UNIT 1


I tried entering the above text but it reads as an INVALID key please help.

thank you in advance What disk did you put in?my computer was an xp origal and it was changed to windows me, so they give a copy of the disc label windows me, I am GUESSING is the program Are you trying to reinstall Windows ME, or...?
By "disc" do you mean CD? What does the label say?it is a cd and is label as WINDOWS M.E. and then I have a serial numbermy computer totally shut down on me and then give me the message that

Windows 2000 could not start because the following files is missing or currupt

\WINNT\SUYSTEM32\CONFIG\SYSTEM\

SO I tried to reinstall windows but now is giving me the other message listed above and that where i got all confusedAt A:\>, type:
D (if D is your CD drive)
Hit ENTER.
You should see:
D:\>
Type in:
OEMSETUP.EXE
Hit Enter.

You didn't answer:
Quote

Are you trying to reinstall Windows ME, or...?

The cursor arrow keeps flickering LIKE a candle in the wind when I have my hand on it. The mouse is the kind that doesn't NEED cleaning and I checked all the plugs, etc. Do I just need a new mouse?check connection in back of pc,do you have acess to another mouse to test out?QUOTE

The mouse is the kind that doesn't need cleaning

I looked at my MB SPECS today & found out it is 1.5 Gb/s. This was after I found out my HD was a 3.0 Gb/s. I have a problem with my OS not loading at all now. Does this issue have any deal with the speeds listed above or is this totally unrelated?I wouldn't think it has anything to do with the data transfer speeds if the computer has been working before.

We need more information, Please look here.I am considering buying a 2nd HD to put Windows on for now & then wipe the corrupt drive clean once I transfer everything I want after checking for VIRUSES. I'm just wondering if having the 2 DIFFERENT speeds has any profound EFFECT on the corrupt drive. Thanks for the answer.HDD #'s relatw to the total storage space on that drive...
They have nothing to do with your other posted # which is the speed of your main chip (*CPU )

I have JBL 2.0 speakers. My speakers are not producing any type of sound. The power light in speakers is also not TURNED on.
But, when i plug my headphones in that jack, they WORK perfectly.
Is there a problem with my speakers or is there any other problem ?
HELP........... It SOUNDS like a problem with the speakers. Can you TRY them somewhere ELSE?

Hello EVERY one I need help pls...Im a newbie in this forum... I have a problem with my MONITOR...
The problem is when I open my computer just when the windows is starting and showing its DESKTOP, the monitor suddenly shutsoff and has a message og
---> Hz? <-----
what is Hz? I think it is hertz... It Blinks in the monitor... Then my monitor wont open again and restarts...
I can only use the safe mode... It start when I used safe mode but when I use the windows start normally it just blackout and says Hz?
Im using Windows XP here... Pls anyone help me...
I dont think my monitor has a problem....
I TRY to change the setting in the display in the safe mode but I cant...
It says that the monitor's default is on....
Pls reply to ThisCan you try another monitor?
AND/OR
Try the current monitor on another computer?I think that will solve my problem but... Im thinking to solve it in the system.....
My monitor works properly I think it has something to do with the refresh rate of the monitor... Or I think in the display properties of the monitor...But I cant manipulate the setting in the safe mode... I dont think it is a virus either....
I always shut my monitor several hours while my cpu is working...

We dont have Extra Monitor.... Wait, so there is no problem in Safe Mode?Quote

I think it has something to do with the refresh rate of the monitor

But I cant manipulate the setting in the safe mode

I'm having problems backing up files to my external drive.
I get this message when I hover the cursor over the Maxtor icon in the SYSTEM tray; "Backup to F {SN:L42AYZCG} failed!!".
I can't find anything wrong in the settings.
In Control Panel > System > Hardware tab > Device Manager > DISC Drives > Maxtor OneTouch III USB Device;
in the Device Status box it say's:
Quote

"This device is working properly.

If you are having problems with this device, click Troubleshoot to start the troubleshooter."

I am CONFUSED of buying hp PRINTER.What type of printer can you recommend between this two: HP D2460 and HP D910?Which is better? What do you mainly use a printer for?The HP D2460 is pretty GOOD. It seems to be a printer that can do everything HOWEVER I couldn't find a D910

Hello, I am trying to BURN a movie with QUICK Time Player onto a dvd that wont just play on my laptop. I made a slideshow for my parents, and burned it onto a dvd-r, and it plays on my dell laptop, but wont play on my dvd player...can someone please help? Their party is on saturday, and I need to figure it out before then!!

Thanks! it could be a few reasons. What do you try to play it in (ex: windows media player)?

It could be that the dvd reader does not work. Does it read other dvd's? If so, trying to play it in vlc media player download it here:

http://www.videolan.org/vlc/Well, I made the video on an apple, and then exported it using quick time player. I saved it onto a JUMP drive, and then burned it onto a dvd on a school computer. I then tried to play the dvd on an actual dvd player, and it said disc ERROR, and then when I loaded it onto my dell laptop, it freezes. When using windows media player, it says it doesnt read this type of document? I dont know how to save it differently? as i said erlier, try downloading vlc if it is not on a school compouter and see if it will play on it or do you need the dvd to play on a tv?I need it to play on a tv! I tried your recommendation, didnt help.. If you did not finalize the DVD after burning it, it will only play on players which are also capable of recording. If you finalize the DVD (that is the same as CLOSING the disk), it should play on most DVD players.

so i got a new monitor with a vga slot and a dvi-d slot. my video card has a dvi-i slot and comes with a vga to dvi-i ADAPTER.

so what i used to do was hook up the vga cable to the adapter on the video card and into the vga slot on the monitor. this didnt work and my monitor didnt SHOW anything on the screen.

my QUESTION is do u think my monitor would DISPLAY something if i bought a vga to dvi-d adapter for the monitor?yes you probably would get the monitor working if you got a vga to dvi-d adaptor. DVI-I and DVI-D are different versions of DVI just how Super VGA and VGA are different versions.so i bought the vga to dvi-d adapter and it still doesnt work! help!!!!

i DONT know why its not working dont panic, now all you need to do is buy the dvi-d to dvi-i adapter and hook it up to the other adaptor an then plug each end to the video card and the monitor

I am adding a larger HD to a COMPUTER, I need to transfer a few files to the new larger drive and want to keep both drives.

Lets call them, Larger Drive (a) and Original Drive (b) both will run Win Xp


Drive (a) for movies and Drive (b) for 15 YEAR old Stepdaughter (This PC is in her bedroom).

Can I set it up so that when I start up the computer I can then decide which HD I would LIKE to use?

KellyKelly"When i start up the computer".If that is the actual point at which you want to have a choice then a way to do it would be to install an operating system on both HDD's and when the computer starts it will offer you the choice of which operating system you wish to use and by your choice you will be selecting the HDD you want to start with. There may be other ways but that is a way i have on one of my computers which should i so desire i can chose my start up HDD. i have not created the 2 O/S system to achieve your stated objective however it would accomplish it,truenorthOkay, thanks, I was hoping I would get the choice at start up. Yay and thanks for the quick response. Quote from: truenorth on July 29, 2008, 06:22:17 PM

There may be other ways but that is a way i have on one of my computers which should i so desire i can chose my start up HDD. i have not created the 2 O/S system to achieve your stated objective however it would accomplish it,truenorth

Hi,

I'm new here, my name is Chris. I have an old Samsung VM8000 series LAPTOP running XP Pro. It runs fine, and I use it for basic office work etc.

Recently, I used it for a powerpoint presentation, and everything ran smoothly. However, since then, I have had problems with its SCREEN.

When I turn the laptop on, it displays the STANDARD boot info on the screen, and then shows the Windows XP loading screen. However, after it shows the Windows XP loading screen, the monitor goes black, but the laptop continues running.

I think it is possibly something to do with the way I used a projector with the laptop for my presentation, but I have tried using the "CRT/LCD" switch button a few TIMES, and the screen remains blank.

Many Thanks,
ChrisCan you do a system restore?i would SUGGEST reading the manuel if you have it and also try going to a site that has troubleshooting about it. `Also try connecting a projector to it and see if that works.

Quote

I was INTERESTED just because my LATE DAD and his family are Polish.

Please read all..

Ok, i have a GeForce FX 5200 graphics card and a Dell Dimension 300 computer and monitor.

Problem::
This computer has an onboard graphics card which isnt good enough for the games i want to play, so i bought the geforce graphics card. I realised that my monitor was VGA and the card was DVI. I fixed that by getting a dvi/vga connector lead. I disabled the inboard graphics card, and inserted my geforce card. I booted windows and it worked ok apart from the RESOLUTION being HUGE. Then a ' found new harware' popup appeared and i followed the intruction booklet which said what to do with this popup. It said it needed to search for drivers to run the hardware, so i put the drver CD in. It started intalling, i went upstairs and when i came back down, there was a blank screen with a flashing white line in the top left corner. I turned the computer off and then on again. When it came back on, it showed the windows load screen, and as soon as windows loaded, the screen went black. there is not mouse and the keyboard DOESNT WORK. It does this everytime i boot with the card in. I read the instruction booklet and it said to boot into safe mode. i hold down the F8 key and i CLICK safe mode. it then goes into another screen that says ' choose which system you want to boot' i choose my computer and click enter. It then comes up with a screen full of white writing, is this right?

I dont know what to do because the card SHOULD be working, and it says to install the drivers when the card is in. also im not too sure how to boot into safe mode... ive taken the card out again and the computer works fine...

ANY advice/help appreciated! thankyouyouve done it right those writings were actually telling you that your at safe mode already, you were suppose to uninstall or rollback the driver that you installed and maybe perhaps get a better updated driver from www.nvidia.com.still nedd help with black screen of Dooooom!

Hello jakkusto,

You have more of less discribed the exact same problem I have.
I just build a new computer, also with gaming in mind. Specs can be read below:

Windows Vista Home Premium home edition SP1
Core 2 Duo Intel processor E8400 (LGA775)
Asus P5Q mobo
7900GT 256 Mb graphics card (single)
2 Gb DDR2 pc2-8500 Ram - Kit (2 one gig sticks)
WD 250 GB HDD
500W PSU
CD/DVD burner/player

The ram and gfx-card is components I've gotten from a friend for usage till I get the things I really ordered.
Anyway...
I build the computer, installed Vista and handfull of preformancedemanding games. (Crysis etc.)
I did some gaming (some hours) and when I went to sleep, I wanted the computer to stay on so it could download some torrents while I slept. Therefor, I put the computer in the state, where it's neither on nor off (can't remember the English word for it).. But I soon realized that all the fancy blue LEDs from my gaming chase would drive me insane, so I just pressed the powerbutton 5 secs till it turned off.
Next day, I wanted to stream some southpark from the internet while I woke up, but during that, my computer suddenly froze and my speakers began to make a lot of nasty noise.
I thought it sounded really unhealthy so I rebooted it right away, only to see it freeze a few secs after vista start up.
I then did ALOT of different things, including formating my hard drive and reinstalling vista 3 or 4 times.
Nothing seemed to work, except when I asked my PC to boot in safe mode.

I have no alternative components with which I can test if that should be the problem, so I'm kind if out of ideas at the moment.

I have three theories, knowing that I have an absolute minimum of experience on this area.

1. The gfx-card does somehow not like my mobo

2. One of the cores in my CPU has become defect. This would make sense since my computer freezes right after vista starts (vista uses both the cores in my CPU - the bios etc. does not.)

3. My mobo is bugged, since its a fairly new product on the marked and you've got the same as I have.

All inputs are more than welcome, and especially if you solve the problem yourself jakkusto.

And finally I want to apologize for my limited English.

Thanks.


(EDIT)
It's not the DRIVERS since the mobo is very new.
I also experienced it freeze trying to install drivers, but I've also succeeded installing them.
Its seems like there is no patton to the freezing, but its always within 5 mins of start up (usally right after start up)

/bump

I've read a lot of people with similar problems, blaming Vista. Dunno if Vista somehow might be the problem. Somehow its very hard to tell whats wrong. How is it booting in safemode but would not reinstall windows? Was it able to go reach the desktop in safe mode? Try another optical drive in booting windows vista re installation .
Well remove the dvdrom rom and swap it. Flashing the bios on that board worked for me, its not freezing up on me anymore...if that works for you, let me know if it also seems to disable the cd/dvd drive, because mines not being detected by windows anymore now. I've got that listed on my own thread (same subject name), so you can see what else i did if flashing bios doesn't seem to work...but I'm pretty sure thats what fixed my freezing issue

*edit*
I should have mentioned before, my computer was very stable in safe mode as well, and it never froze once when i reinstalled xp and ran some HD utility programs off of a floppy...that WHOLE process took well over 2 hours and it didn't freeze once when doing that. And yes, I know comparing xp and vista is like apples and oranges, but it seems like we're having very similar problems with very similar hardwareHey EVERYBODY. Thanks for the responses!
I've been working on my issue all day without real luck.

My system runs perfectly in safemode - no freezing.

I would like to flash my bios to see of I should be as lucky as jakkusto, but I feel uneasy doing so without a little guidance. I know that the bios is a very essential part of a PC, and must therefore be treated with a certain level of respect... I imaging just downloading the newest version of the bios FITTING my mobo from asus.com and installing it, but I really want some advise in chase you have to keep something in mind. Flashing the BIOS has created many doorstops out there and i would'nt recommend it until you have exhausted all other possibilities...

A few things to do in the meantime:

Test the RAM
DLoad and run MemTest...let it run at least 2 hours.
Any errors at all and you have a bad stick of RAM

Test the hard drive:
DLoad and run the diagnostics from your drive manuf. site.
They run outside of Windows from a bootable CD and are more extensive tests that chkdsk.
Any errors and you have a bad hard drive.

Test the video card:
Borrow another vid card and install it with it's drivers
Remember to un-install your existing video drivers.
If the condition goes away then the card is the culprit.

P.S. You say you have had problems installing drivers....did you remember to re-install your MBoard drivers after formatting ? ?

We have never tried to turn it on without the heat sink, we took it off a few times (while the power was off) and looked at it wondering if it was somehow causing the problem, but we never tried to turn the computer on with out itQuote from: Slam799 on June 30, 2008, 08:32:09 AM

We have never tried to turn it on without the heat sink, we took it off a few times (while the power was off) and looked at it wondering if it was somehow causing the problem, but we never tried to turn the computer on with out it

For 2 cards power supply then needs to have (in total) at least 45 Amps AVAILABLE on the 12 volts rails.

For 1 card i would get 25 - 30 amp on a 12 volt rail.

ok well i was able to get a new processor and now im about to buy the power supply which has 80 amps on the 12 volt rails so that should do the trick. ill post again when and if my computer starts up

I finally got my computer to recognise the drive, but its not the same name (the way it appears on the boot screen) its a different number.

I have an HP Media Center 864n pc with a TV TUNER card that has the cable hookup, 2 RCA ports (L audio, R audio), and an 7 prong S-VIDEO port. I currently have my PC hooked up to my TV through the 4 prong S-Video port on my NVIDIA GEFORCE FX 5500 GRAPHICS card, and the video works fine. The problem is that I've hooked up the L and R RCA ports to the TV, but no sound will come out. So I was wondering if ANYONE might now how to get my sound to run through the Television speakers.

I have removed the hard drive from my OLD/broken HP XE3 laptop and want to know if I can simply "hook it up" to another computer. Is there a way to convert the many-pinned plug to , say, a USB and simply use the old hard drive as an external hard drive on another system?

THANKS!Yes get a hdd ENCLOSURE. You can buy one in any computer store. &GT;$202.5" HDD to IDE connecter:



5 to 8 bucks at any computer store...

I have an MSI K8MM3-V x64 AMD motherboard with a 3200 MHz processor, 2 GB's of RAM, a 256 MB NVidia GeForce 7600 graphics card, A Creative Labs Audigy SE sound card and a Coolmax 550 watt power supply.

The board I am using is refurbished. I had to send one back because of some bad PCI slots, before that, the first MSI motherboard, which was new, didn't EVEN boot up. Now they've sent me this replacement and twice now I've gotten an error message after the desktop comes up concerning a USB device that is not recognized.

I did not get this message on my previous MSI board, and the MSI techs, God Bless em', said they don't think I should worry about it. Brillant eh?

By the way, I am running Vista x64 and all of the three USB devices that I am running, a printer, a scanner and a webcam, all work fine. And everything looks good in device manager.

When I was running XP x64, an unknown device was always showing in device manager and I never could figure out what that was or what to do about it.

On this error message, which I have attached, it says "One of the USB devices attached to this computer malfunctioned and Windows does not recognize it". It then shows in the main window that it's a USB Root Hub (2 ports) and includes an unused port and an unknown device.

Then at the bottom it says "Recommendation: Try reconnecting the device. If Windows STILL does not recognize it, try replacing the device.

I'm wondering if a BIOS update might solve this. Otherwise I'm stumped. But my system runs fine, and if anything I'd just like to stop seeing the error message. Anyone now how to to that on Vista?1. Error Message.
Quote from: janlafata on July 31, 2008, 02:27:04 PM

On this error message, which I have attached, it says "One of the USB devices attached to this computer malfunctioned and Windows does not recognize it". It then shows in the main window that it's a USB Root Hub (2 ports) and includes an unused port and an unknown device.

Then at the bottom it says "Recommendation: Try reconnecting the device. If
Windows still does not recognize it, try replacing the device.

USBView is a free utility from Microsoft that displays the USB connection tree and shows the USB devices that are connected to it together with their configuration data. This is very useful for debugging USB enumeration errors. USBView runs under Windows 98, ME, 2000 and XP.

I am going to buy a PCI Express 16 X VIDEO Card and.
And I foundout PCI Express 16 X has a Data Transfer Rate of 4,000 MBps Right?

And I know that that is just the Bandwidth that it can go up to if it had to.

But what de termines how mutch Data the Card will be sending?GPU of the card and Ram performance will determine a lot of how much of the 16x bandwidth it will take advantage of.Quote from: nymph4 on July 31, 2008, 11:16:32 AM

I am going to buy a PCI Express 16 X Video Card and.
And I foundout PCI Express 16 X has a Data Transfer Rate of 4,000 MBps Right?

And I know that that is just the Bandwidth that it can go up to if it had to.

But what de termines how mutch Data the Card will be sending?

Heya guys. I recently bought a new computer, i made it from parts. It runs perfectly, but i wanted to upgrade the graphics and bought this Motherboard with integrated graphics.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=221899&doy=27m7

I bought this card&GT;
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=224702&doy=27m7



I inserted it into the card slot and followed the instructions. then connected to my monitor first off. There was no signal.

So i checked the manufacturer's booklet again and it said in some cases it requires a PS to work, which it has a connector for, in the upper right corner of the card.

The trouble is, my motherboard's PSU only has a PS connector with this face setup that used to plug directly into the integrated graphics on the board>>




And what's required is this six-segment connector (Or at least the accepting female connector part is six-segmented). I tried to insert the cable all the same, but the shape of the CONNECTORS (4 pentagram-shaped with 2 square accepting connector points) does not allow for it.



The store is now closed and i won't be able to go back there for a few days or maybe longer, so i was wondering if anyone KNEW of an easier WAY to connect this, or what the name of the PS cable is with 6 segements is that i need, so i can order it online.


I know you're pretty busy and i appreciate any answers at all in regards to this post. Excuse the crappy MS Paint diagrams i knocked up, i hope they make it easier to understand. Thanks again in advance.

Idle THOUGHTS here - nothing more.

If indeed this ext'l power connection is needed then another PSU might be in order.

However, I recall when I added an ATI dual mon card to my Lenovo backup machine, I had to make a bios change so that the mobo on board graphics was in effect disabled. I'd consider checking this latter aspect first and then if need be move on to the PS element.

I didn't go check out the Maplin info but am assuming the card was a recognized device when installed - ahh but no visual to confirm this of course. Was it a straight PCI plugin or an AGP in fact.?did your graphics card not come with PCI-E adapter cables that look something like this?


if not, you will either need to purchase the adapter or you will need to purchase a new PSU. what is the wattage rating of your current PSU?There were no adapter cables with the card and i had a feeling i'd need to upgrade the PSU, which is currently 600watt. I guess the easiest fix is to get a new PSU at 800watt and ensure it's got 6 pin on the connector if i can't find an adapter online (Which i probably will). Thanks a bunch for your replies guys, appreciate it. Have a good one.Do yourself a HUGE favor and don't buy a cheap 30 dollar PSU...

Hey Guys
Im new to the forum and I need help on my HP Media Center m1090n. The problem is that I replaced the Ram from 1 gig to 2 gigs and then after I think the computer overheated and shut down on its own. So I thought it was a PSU issue so I replaced the PSU from 300 to a 480 watt and now when I try to boot the computer, it doesn't boot past the HP screen and the fan would go fast then slow and fast again in regular intervals. The THING is that when I apply pressure on the heatsink and push it into the CPU and hold it, it will start booting regularly into windows and everything is fine. I tried detecting the fan speed and CPU temp USING fanspeed but it cant read it the temp unless I apply pressure on the heatsink like i did to boot my computer. I dont know whats causing this Im assuming its because my computer cant read the temperature but I dont know how to fix it.

Specs:
Motherboard: ASUS PTGD1-LA
INT P4 3.6
ATI Radeon x600 256mb
2 X 1 gig DDR PC3200 Ram
Vista -32 bitfrom the sounds of it u must have moved the heat sink when u installed the ram windows wont boot proporly becuz the cpu is overheating

i wood try try reinstalling the heatsink or at least making sher it is attached proporly I reinstalled the heatsink and applied new thermal compound n it still does the same thing so i dunno whats wrong with it.did you reinstall the heatsink correctly?

they lie!!!!!
http://www.tomshardware.com/news/asus-gigabyte-motherboard,5348.htmlHow can you be so sure that Gigabyte isn't lying ? ?

do you think gigabyte is lying??I defiantly felt lied to when I bought a supposedly Wifi capable motherboard from them, of which the Wifi didn't work.

Anyone that has ever bought a motherboard from them should sue.

QUOTE from: Tom's Hardware

During all loads, Gigabyte’s DES system bests the EPU system with figures ranging anywhere from 4.1-percent to a whopping 17-percent difference at maximum savings settings. In fact, Gigabyte claims that Asus’ EPU system "cheats" by lowering certain system frequencies by small amounts to reduce power consumption, instead of actually providing better power throughput. In the EPU "Walk Mode," which is its most efficient mode, Gigabyte claims that Asus’ EPU does its trick by down clocking 10-percent and dropping Vcore voltage — possibly affecting CPU stability.

...Gigabyte argues otherwise, saying that the EPU has absolutely no phase changing capabilities at all.

At the board level, Gigabyte pointed out that Asus’ boards used poor QUALITY capacitors that were not manufactured in Japan. "Asus uses non-Japanese made metal solid capacitors to fool you," SAID Gigabyte. "Asus still tries to [CUT] cost down."

Ok my question is, I just received my moms old COMPUTER. It's roughly 4-5 years old, I have a brand new hard drive and a new windows XP. Can I just remove the old hard drive, put the new one in, put the new windows xp on it? I ask this cause she doesn't have the recovery disks and it won't let me make new ones, but I don't have any driver disks, if i do this new install of windows on this new hard drive is it gonna work? Im not sure where or how to get drivers her comp. Ive REDONE installs of windows before but had drivers disks. but this is new for me. its a former HP BEYOND warranty.Quote from: natsirt152 on August 31, 2009, 12:22:01 AM

Can I just remove the old hard drive, put the new one in, put the new windows xp on it?

make sure to get the xp updates an stay away from IE 8

stay away from IE 8

and i am staying away from ie8

updates arent that important

I have a Dell Dimension 4700 desktop computer. This desktop is about 4 years OLD, but I’ve taken good care of it, upgraded the video CARD and MEMORY (both functioned perfectly for almost a year, so this is not the source of the problem), and have never had any trouble with it before. A week ago when I went to turn it on, all the lights came on, but then the fan kicked in at full speed and it just sat there, blowing out air. My monitor got no signal and just stayed black. I tried many more times and got exactly the same result. I have heard no beeping or any alarming indications, and the computer does not seem to be genuinely overheating – it seems to just think it is.

I believe the hard drive DOES start spinning, but once the fan starts I can't hear it anymore. By the way, the fan spinning constantly like that is not normal.

I thought the source of the problem might have been the power supply, but I've tried putting in a new one (in the process re-seating almost all the connections in the PC) with absolutely no change, so I'm going to send it back. I was told the only way to find out if it was the power supply was trial and error.

This has been very frustrating for me, and despite hours of searching ONLINE, I've not found a single case that is exactly the same as mine. I don't have the money to get a new computer, so I really need to find a fix for this one.

Oh, and I can’t run any diagnostics or get into the BIOS or anything because at no point does my monitor change.

Thank you!reseat the ram
most of the time there is nothing is usuly a ram problemOH...MY.........!!!!!!

Thank you! I don't really understand why that worked. I had reseated all four RAM cards ALREADY, as well as the video card. But that time, for whatever reason, it worked.

Thank you thank you thank you!

Solved!

Isaacyou should download memtest burn it on a cd and let it run 4 passes
and if there any any errors reported replace your ram
otherwise i think you are good to go

I have an ASUS P5w motherboard with a Pentium 3.0 GHZ CPU, 8 gb of RAM, 5 HDD (2 in a RAID 0 configuration) and 3 Optical DVD RW drives. This will be a video editing machine. I started with a 32 bit version of Windows XP and after installation, Windows would only see the HDDs connected to the Intel bridge.
The BOARD has a JMicron 363, and a Silicone Image RAID driver as well. I set up 2 320GB HDDs, RAID 0, in the JMicron driver. After following the INSTALL instructions to the letter I couldn't get Windows to see the controller. I have sense upgraded the OS to XP x64. Again I carefully installed the OS, hitting F6 on cue and inserting the data on my JMicron self made floppy DISK. Still Windows is blind to not only the RAID drive but the IDE drive I also have connected to the same JMicron controller. WHAT CAN I BE DOING WRONG? Microsoft wants $60.00 to help me out. HEY THAT'S MORE THAN I PAID FOR THEIR QUESTIONABLE SOFTWARE!
Can any of you 64 bit pros out there sooth my aching head.

I'm curious as to how that graphics card handles the resolution of the 27" HDTV, and what KIND of framerates you get when playing games at high-ish settings. Please let us know when you get everything settled? Enjoy putting everything together, that's the second best part for me!You will have to be more specific in your request for info as there are a lotta cards out there...
Some handle it better than others.and you got ATI cards, you got NVIDIA cards, you got Intel accelerators, you got dedicated cards, you got integrated cards. What would you like? I believe the OP chose to get this card:
ASUS EAH4670/DI/512M/A Radeon HD 4670 512MB
as recommended by Calum. If the OP got a different card, then I'd still like to know what it is and how it performs with the 27" HDTV display he planned to use. I will give updates as I get the pieces. So far I ORDERED the RAM, CPU, and Hard Drive. I WAS going to buy the Motherboard at this point, seeing as it is the most expensive, but sadly Newegg was out of stock for the moment. I get paid every two weeks, so we'll see then!

Like last pay period, I was going to buy the PSU, but they WENT out of stock on it, so I waited. Two-three days later voila! They had it in stock. Wish I could get it that fast, though! UPDATE: I've been playing my new computer so MUCH I've completely forgotten to update you guys. For the most part, it plays awesome. My brother gave me a spare 8800 GTX he had, so now the graphics is even more fluid. Next paycheck I'm spending over half of it on an iTouch 16Gb, so probably the next paycheck after that I'll be getting a new monitor so I can go into a higher resolution. (Best resolution I can get atm is 1360x768. With my previous card, I bought a HDMI cable and could do 1920x1080, but the games were visually unappealing because of the low refresh rate.) I'll keep you guys posted as time progresses.Glad that it is up an running.

I plan to purchase a laptop or a netbook but I have problems whenever I use the touchpad. I have ARTHRITIS and it's hard to move the cursor around using the touchpad. I was told that all LAPTOPS allow the user to connect a mouse if desired. Is this true? I have been hesitant to purchase a laptop for this reason.Sure. You can use a WIRELESS mouse or a usb mouse with any laptop.http://www.fentek-ind.com/3m-mouse.htm#Vertical

Wireless mouse designed for people with arthritis.

Quote from: smeezekitty on August 28, 2009, 06:42:05 PM

please AVOID posting useless awnsers
but wireless mice are trouble yes

please avoid posting useless awnsers
but wireless mice are trouble yes

I've used a wireless mouse for years and have had no problems. One thing however, always have spare batteries on hand because they usually die when your in the middle of something.