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Well now i know its the cpu fan. Guess thats another thing to add to my fix/upgrade list.
Any clues where i can get ONE that works GREAT and silent.Quote from: lucianthegrim on September 01, 2009, 10:40:43 AM

Well now i know its the cpu fan.

i have a dell inspiron 6000 and would like to know if there is a WAY to turn off the keyboard touch PAD (as i use a mouse) thanks megadreamControl Panel - Mouse - look AROUND for the option to disable the touchpadDiffrent ways.. not sure if they will work on your pc, but wirth a shot

Select Start > Settings > Control Panel > Mouse icon to OPEN the Mouse PROPERTIES dialog box.
Click on the Device Settings tab.
Click the Disable button. Click OK in response to the system message that displays.

Also..

Disabling the driver from startup and the services

Quote from: cactuslizard on AUGUST 29, 2009, 09:17:30 PM

I went on ebay and got a brand NEW, AMD compatible motherboard for around 30 dollars (not sure of the amount in pounds), and you can get a dual core AMD Athlon processor for around 60 dollars. So, I would CHECK ebay first.

are you sure they arent used/broken?

FAT 32 with the "newer" version of FDISK (introduced with ME) will support partitions up to 64Gb.Quote from: ADG on September 01, 2009, 04:27:08 PM

FAT 32 with the "newer" version of FDISK (introduced with ME) will support partitions up to 64Gb.

On Windows 95/98, due to the version of Microsoft's SCANDISK utility included with these operating systems being a 16-bit application, the FAT structure is not allowed to grow beyond around 4.2 million (< 222) clusters, placing the volume limit at 127.53 GB.[14] A limitation in original versions of Windows 98/98SE's Fdisk utility causes it to incorrectly report disk SIZES over 64 GB.[15] A corrected version is available from Microsoft, but it cannot partition drives larger than 512GB [16]. A limitation of 32 GB applies to the Windows 2000/XP installation program and filesystem creation tool. [17] However, both systems can read and write to FAT32 file systems of any size. This limitation is by design and according to Microsoft was imposed because many tasks on a very large FAT32 file system become slow and inefficient.[14][18] This limitation can be bypassed by using third-party formatting utilities.[19] Windows Me supports the FAT32 file system without any limits.[20] However, similarly to Windows 95/98/98SE there is no native support for 48-bit LBA in Windows ME, meaning that the maximum disk size for ATA disks is 127.6 GB, the maximum size of an ATA disk using the previous long-standard 28-bit LBA.

hello GUYS,

I have brought new laptop its an ASUS brand its model is K40IJ. It is a windows vista compatible and though it is I tried installing the latest which is windows 7 because I heard that all the drivers from vista were compatible to windows 7.
After I've FINISHED installing the windows 7 on my laptop, all the drivers were actually working but there is one thing that
really confused me because I can not make use of my built-in WEB cam.? I've tried to re-install the drivers but then it doesn't have any changes.

Can somebody HELP me with my problem? please... Your help will mean a lot to me.. thanks in ADVANCE!

Why I make case labels an KEEP them in there an not on the disk. All other DVD's I've tried are OK so I think it just NEEDED a good cleaning.

Thanks to all who posted for the HELP! you are most welcome

i installed my webcam by cd but when i put my webcam in the usb it says a problem occurred during hardware installation. Your new hardware might not be working.
i rang the company then they said to go to device manager but its BLANK. i tired start, then run, then i type service.msc but it says window cannot find it.
PLEASE PLEASE HELPStart --> Run --> devmgmt.mscAre you saying the device manager window is empty? If so, go to CONTROL PANEL - ADMINISTRATIVE TOOLS -SERVICES - and SET the Plug & Play service to automatic. Reboot.Thanks for the feed back

But i tired it and it still comes up with A PROBLEM OCCURRED DURING HARDWARE INSTALLATION.
I went to start, then run, then dermgmt.msc. It worked but device manager still blank
I tired Control pan, then admin TOOL, then service found plug and play the thing was on auto so i clicked ok then i STARTED the computer again.
Then i pluged it in and the message came up

Please Please i really need helpQuote from: ngatyrtam on August 29, 2009, 12:51:25 AM

device manager still blank

my usb importer is not working
how do i troubleshoot itQuote from: ngatyrtam on August 29, 2009, 01:04:25 AM

usb importer

plus my device manager was blank



and well they said to go to system restore and restore it and well after that it work.
But now my pod not working when i plug it in its say "a problem occurred during hardware installation." and my flash drive works.

i tired start, run devmgmt.msc still nothing and i don't know how to post it

how do make the plug and play service start cause now my printer is not working again

I have a new/rebuilt computer and in my area I can only get dial up internet. Well when I try to install NetZero it says that the modem is bad or something about the phone line connection. The phone line works fine because when I switch it over to use the phone it works fine. Does this mean the modem really is bad or does anyone have any other advice?You have installed a driver for the modem, yes?

Modems are cheap enough. If you purchase a new one from a reputable outlet it can be returned, so I guess there's no harm in finding out that way if yours is defective.What error messages do you get when you try to connect.
The details will be most helpful.as far as i know there is a driver installed...use windows xp and i would assume it would.
the details only stated that the modem may be bad. nothing more. no details unfortunatelyI have seen this recently with Netzero dialup on a computer that used to connect reliably for many years. Never could figure it out. I suspect it's Netzero and not the modem. You can query the modem through Windows which will test if the modem is functioning.ok so if it is netzero and not my modem what are my options then? I am replacing the hard drive today and possibly switching out the modem. If it might not be the modem, why are you replacing it and the hard drive, too?

To test modem, OPEN up Control Panel, select Modem and look for diagnostics. There's a box that's says something like "Query". I don't have a phone modem anymore, so can't guide you through it.replacing the hard drive with a 320GB drive rather than the 40...just upgrading. I will do that when i get home shortly. May be posting something tomorrow. Had a guy who got his degree for something in computers SAYING that if the hard drive is going bad it could be messing up the modem. I dont know...i was going to replace the hard drive today anyways. But i am going to test the modem first before switching it out.
Thank you Quote from: mp3chic on September 01, 2009, 02:50:01 PM

1. replacing the hard drive with a 320GB drive rather than the 40...just upgrading.
2. Had a guy who got his degree for something in computers saying that if the hard drive is going bad it could be messing up the modem.
3. But i am going to test the modem first before switching it out.

The new modem works...old modem must have been bad!

I'm a fairly experienced SYSTEM builder, but I've never really put together anything for 1080p playback with Blu Ray drive. Normally I wouldn't need to ask, but this is a mini-itx build with somewhat decent onboard graphic, and so-so dual core processor. I just basically need to know if it will do fine doing 1080p playback from BDROM. Here are the links to the parts. I would just link to wishlist but it hasn't shown up in the public lists yet.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129067 case

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813500020 mobo

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116075 cpu

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820161030 ram

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106325 blu ray drive


Thanks for any advice or help. I'm pretty sure it could handle it, but I think it's pushing it a bit. I have another build in order but it's pushing almost 500 bucks, and I'm trying to keep it as CLOSE to 400 as possible, while keeping the footprint as small as possible.i didnt know they had blue ray drives for pc yet
you could probubly get the same size and SPEED of ram for cheaper but i dont knowQuote from: smeezekitty on September 01, 2009, 06:57:12 PM

i didnt know they had blue ray drives for pc yet
you could probubly get the same size and speed of ram for cheaper but i dont know

technically its software playback so any processor or video would play it
but some may display it at crawl speed
28.00 $ is really on the high side for only 2 gb of ram
if that motherboard can handle 2gigs in 1 stick you could get http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820141300

I haven't done this one before so I'm really interested with the answers..

Hi, I've seen some posts similar to this, but nothing quite right...

I have a laptop, which has always picked up the wireless internet broadcast from my home desktop, through a D-Link router. There has never been any worry before.

But now, my laptop cannot find the wireless network at all.

The problem can't be with the router, because my brother picks up the internet with his laptop here, but it's also not with my laptop, because it can pick up wireless internet at other places as well.

If anyone can save me, or POINT me in the direction of another POST, it would be more than helpful.

Thanks!Just thought I'd ADD...
Home desktop is a Dell Dimension 8300, running Windows XP SP3.
Router is a D-Link...DI-624 (That's what it says...).
Laptop is an Acer Aspire 5634WLMi.

If anyone needs anymore SPECS or anything, let me know.If the internal card receives other Networks, and skips yours, then some
thing is not set correctly to match the Card with the wireless source. May
be this can Help.
Wireless - Basic Configuration: http://www.ezlan.net/Wireless_Config.html
Wireless SECURITY - http://www.ezlan.net/Wireless_Security.html
To check and set Windows Zero Configuration, http://www.ezlan.net/wzc.htmlHave you reset the router?Yes, I reset the router...
I'll try those links in a few hours, Printerface. Thanks for your help, I'll let you know how it went.Quote from: flyingvulture on September 02, 2009, 01:38:53 AM

Just thought I'd add...
Home desktop is a Dell Dimension 8300, running Windows XP SP3.
Router is a D-Link...DI-624 (That's what it says...).
Laptop is an Acer Aspire 5634WLMi.

If anyone needs anymore specs or anything, let me know.

• My DVD/CD RW burner stopped working on my month-old PC.
• It worked for a month and just stopped working...no SW or HW changes
• It does have power to it. It ejects and spins the disk.
• Inserting a disk does not start a window. My computer does not see the drive when a disk is inserted.
  
• Device Manager reports "Windows cannot load the device driver for this hardware. The driver may be corrupted or missing. (Code 39)"
  
• What I've tried:
• rebooting
• purchased new DVD/CD drive and installed it - it doesn't work either
• swapped out cable between motherboard and drive
• tried different socket on motherboard to plug drive data cable into
• My PC: Dell inspiron 518, 6 GB RAM, Vista SP 1

Warranty.

Which motherboard integrated graphics cards can handle 1080p blu ray smoothly paired with a decent dual core processor?http://www.digital-digest.com/articles/highdefdvd_test_page1.html#versionQuote from: Broni on September 02, 2009, 07:40:47 PM

http://www.digital-digest.com/articles/highdefdvd_test_page1.html#version

@Bronimaybe the orig poster is tight on case space or has no free slots
LOL
but anyway onboard video would handle it

but it may be ether too slow or terrable aspect
the reson it would handle it is it would software emulate if the video card

[]

Quote from: superbarnie on August 30, 2009, 06:35:17 PM

dude i posted the pic
and also the pic is not blurry if u LOOK close it says 6 gb on the my computer and 2 gb @ task manager

Excellent.
I assume, some limit was set under "Maximum memory", correct?

belkin tooI didnt know that they made cards. Ignore the peanut gallery for the most part. To answer your question if it has a pci SLOT which they do it will work but it depends on what you get speed wise that will be the only major difference. I dont think they make any that arent pciThank you all. I will replace the card. GOSH, I hope it's not the pci slot that's bad
I will post again when I get a new card.Quote from: MarleneD on August 28, 2009, 08:23:48 AM

Gosh, I hope it's not the pci slot that's bad.

I would recommend Intel because they can make good NIC cards.
Do you have a onboard NIC or a PCI card?

I did a Google on:
ATOM MOTHERBOARD
And found some very low prices. What is this? Would I want one of these? Would it perform better than my old single core Pentium 4?
I have a limited budget, but I would like to try a dual core. Now it takes me 7 hours to burn a DVD. Would a dual-core help?

Yeah, they are WELL suited for mobile computers, but in a desktop?

Anybody have practical experience with an Intel Atom Desktop MOTHER and he Intel Atom CPU? Atom is the designation for the CPU...not a MBoard.
There are many manuf. making boards for this chip...

What are your goals for this new machine and how much cabbage do you have ? ?I wouldn't use an Atom for a desktop. Personally i wouldn't use it for a laptop either.

i would definitely go for a core 2 duo.

Atom's are meant to be low power in order to improve battery life on laptops, as well as keep the size down. The Atom processor is the one being used in most of the netbooks.Quote

What are your goals for this new machine and how much cabbage do you have ? ?

...I would like to have a server I could leave on all the time and get into the seldom needed files that are too large to store on my other computers.

Hello everyone,
I debated whether I should post here. Sorry if this isn't the appropriate place. Has anyone ever heard of a Sim Card Storage Backup Device for cell PHONES? I know that the phone company offers a back up SERVICE but, you have to pay a monthly fee. Please direct me to appropriate forums to find out. Again, I apologize for the post.
ThanksDo you mean the Sim card or the microSD card?Oh, you're probably correct; it's probably a microSd card. Are they smaller than the SIM cards? BTW, thanks for replyingI just called At&T and they called it a SIM card. There are a ton of hits on google for devices that will do this...
However they are all Chinese manuf. and i would say caveat emptor...SIM is short for subscriber identity module and is an odd shaped little cardQuote from: MarleneD on September 02, 2009, 12:40:10 PM

Oh, you're probably correct; it's probably a microSd card. Are they smaller than the SIM cards? BTW, thanks for replying

I just called At&T and they called it a SIM card.

Hi folks, I'm having an issue with dell and I was wondering if you could TELL me it's worth the fight or not. I ordered a SXPS 16 from dell and it was supposed to come with a 2.16GHZ processor, when I got it and RAN some games I found it was a 2.00GHZ processor. I'm wondering is there a big difference in the two speeds? Is it worth me returning it and getting the correct one put in? This is what's supposed to be in there Intel® Core™ 2 DUO P7350 (3MB cache/2.16GHz/1066Mhz FSB) and I got the same processor P7350 but different speed? have you spoke to Dell about this?Quote from: mroilfield on September 03, 2009, 09:13:59 AM

have you spoke to Dell about this?

Hey guys, thought I'd throw this one at ya. My mother has a eMachine desktop PC. I believe it's a 1.3GHz CPU and it's a celeron. OS is Win XP Home, 256MB of RAM. On 8/16/09, I picked up her computer and brought it to my place. She said it would not startup right. I confirmed that at her place before deciding to take it home with me to do some troubleshooting.

What it was doing is booting to the Windows logon screen and then it would just stop responding. This started to happen after she had been away from home for about a week.

After taking it to my place, I replaced the PSU with a used Antec PSU I had obtained from a local computer user's group I belong to. The PSU was tested and confirmed to be good. After installing the Antec PSU, the computer was starting normal; I could proceed to her login and operate as usual.

While it was here, I also removed ATT Self-Help Support Tool, an annoying program her ISP had advised her to install. I could tell there was something wrong the installation of it. Her SYSTEM tray has two identical icons for this software; there should have been only been one. I used Add or Remove Programs panel to remove it. After doing so, one icon still appeared in the system tray. I finally resorted to a registry cleaner which completely removed it; the stray icon was gone. The registry cleaner was Eusing Free Registry Cleaner, one I've used in my main desktop system and I trust it. I restarted a few times, logged into her user account, opened Word, etc. to verify everything seemed normal.

I took the computer back to her house and it behaved the same as it has before I took it to my place; it would boot to the Windows login screen and then stall. After some discussion, mom suggested she and I take it to my place again. So, we got in her car and brought back to my place. I connected a monitor, mouse, and keyboard to it. Wouldn't ya know, it started up normal. We took it back to her place and the same problem occurred again.

So, at this point, the situation was quite puzzling. I tried connecting her computer directly to an outlet. That made no difference. I thought about suggesting she ask her landlord to have the electrical power checked for any irregularities but that seems unlikely since no other signs of electrical problems are evident in the house. She has also bought a new surge protector but that made no difference.

The only thing I can think of now is that her motherboard is failing and all this inconsistency between the behavior of her computer between my place and hers is coincidence. Of course, this seems unlikely based on probabilities but, at this point, I'm grasping at straws here.

I have a idle computer here that has Windows ME on it. I could take it to her place and see whether it runs normal just to verify there's nothing weird about her electrical power that's causing a problem. Beyond that, I'm tempted to advise her to buy a new computer.

Any thoughts?I think your suspicions are well founded in regards to the MBoard...eMachines for years used the cheapest components they could find...

That board also may not be too expensive to replace...new....there's still some out there...

However before spending the cabbage i'd swap in another PSU and see...even though the Antec tested good. You never know.

You may also want to take the time to run MEMTEST on it...how's the housekeeping end of THINGS ? ?
I'm assuming this was checked already.thanks for the reply, patio. I can swap another PSU into it and see what happens.

The housekeeping end of things is pretty good; I try to take a peek at that from time to time. She's using Windows firewall, Avast anti-virus, Spybot S & D and has CCleaner installed. I have to occassionally remind her keep current on some of the housekeeping but I don't think there are any significant problems in that area.

As far as replacing the motherboard, I think I'd rather prod her to buy a new one, considering of the low-end prices in the market now. I wouldn't do that if I thought she couldn't afford it, but that's not the case. The computer is not very upgradeable. It has onboard video and has no AGP slot. The RAM (256MB) is a bit lower than optimum. So, rather than spend any money on it, I think I'd rather see her replace it if testing with a different PSU does not do the trick. The local computer uesrs' group has a recycling drive in late September. If this one can be refurbished, they could do that. This is something they do and then make such computers available to needy families.

I'll post back with the outcome of this. Quote

So, we got in her car and brought back to my place. I connected a monitor, mouse, and keyboard to it. Wouldn't ya know, it started up normal. We took it back to her place and the same problem occurred again.

I'd try it with your monitor, mouse and keyboard at your Mom's place.

When a PSU is RATED at for example 500W does that mean that it always used 500W's of power? Or is that only a load marker i.e. it will only handle 500W?

Also does having a power supply of double the wattage i.e. 1KW increase the PSU's lifetime (if used in the same machine)?

I'm trying to work out if its better to have an over rated PSU or if that would just waste power. I know that GOING for the efficiency ones will give the best energy savings but I don't see them LASTING LONG enough to make up the money that I spent on them in the first place.Quote from: Accessless on September 03, 2009, 12:26:23 PM

1. When a PSU is rated at for example 500W does that mean that it always used 500W's of power?
2. Or is that only a load marker i.e. it will only handle 500W?
3. Also does having a power supply of double the wattage i.e. 1KW increase the PSU's lifetime (if used in the same machine)?
4. I'm trying to work out if its better to have an over rated PSU or if that would just waste power.
5. I know that going for the efficiency ones will give the best energy savings but I don't see them lasting long enough to make up the money that I spent on them in the first place.

I just got an entirely new computer about a week ago(mainboard w/ video card, cpu, memory, power supply, hard drive, monitor). Everything was going smoothly until this morning. I left it on over NIGHT and when I moved the mouse to turn the screen back on nothing happened. Eventually I had to RESET the pc and still nothing happened. The computer is running it's just unresponsive. I hooked up a different monitor and it still just acts like it's HIBERNATING or something. The mouse and keyboard don't turn on either.

Anyway, I don't suppose there's a WAY to tell what's wrong is there? I built the computer so I'd probably have to completely take it apart to return it.Double check all your connections with all power removed...
Remove and re-seat all addon cards and RAM sticks...
If still no joy-joy swap in a known working PSU of the same or greater wattage...

Good Luck and let us know.I tried reconnecting everything but still no go. Not sure if I can get ahold of another supply. You think that could be the problem? I'm just hoping it isn't the hard drive because I got that somewhere else and it already has some important stuff on there. But a damaged hard drive would still at least make it to bios you'd think.A bad HDD will not prevent a pc from getting to post in most circumstances....I had a HDD that failed so bad it reported itself as a bunch of random characters to the BIOS. needless to say it confused to BIOS (probably by returning it's name as a really long string) and caused it to freeze and just beep. Gotcha...

Have never ran across this before...but disconnecting the drive temporarily will let us know if it will POST or not...
All that needs removed is the data cable.

do you know enough about eletronics to voltage test the psu?
if so
disconnect the psu from all COMPUTER parts
and test one of the molex assuming it has molex and not sata
[O O O O]
| |
test here
then
[O O O O]
| |
test here
post the voltages
and if not to the top question
barrow a PSUYeah, I tested it by plugging the power supply in ANOTHER computer. I CONSIDER that a pretty GOOD way to test it. And the paperclip way works too. with the power off
take the mptherboard out of the case
and run with MONITER ram and keyboard
try turning it on
if it works
you are shorting to case
if not you may have blew the board

Yesterday I started up my computer (a Vista Home Basics) and it didn't show any image. All it did was static and then turn off. At first I thought it was the computer, but after transferring the monitor to the other computer, I found that the same thing happened and that it was the monitor at fault. After a few tweaks with the option buttons, it started to work again, only to stop working later in the day.

Please help, and thanks in advance!

P.S. I have a 19" widescreen monitor from Westing House Digital

Res. 1440x900I'm just going to MAKE a wild leap here and suggest you might want to replace the display. Quote from: ADG on August 26, 2009, 02:48:54 PM

I'm just going to make a wild leap here and suggest you might want to replace the display.

well sorry my friend but if you used it on two separate machines and doesnt work on both my bet is that the monitor is shot and needs to be repaired or replaced! but let me ask you something does it just never come on or does it show your bios screen and then when it is supposed to boot it never shows the screen???

The monitor is broken, thats that. Deal with it and get a new one

Hi guy's the only reason I'm asking here is because I don't want every Tom *censored* and harry giving RANDOM advice. I need to GET my fan on my laptop changed. Aegis if you remember I gave it a fonzy like slap after you gave me SAGE advice to replace it which I ignored unfortunately, it did stop but it's getting worse now. A mate of mine knows a guy in a shop but how much do you think I should pay for a fan fix on a Advent 9315 laptop? Any constructive advice is much appreciated. Noticed how I said constructive BC?
Sterling if you can.I've no idea what it will cost to replace the fan. HERE's a link to a repair company in London.

Can't really find much about the fans, themselves.Quote from: Aegis on August 10, 2009, 10:52:34 AM

I've no idea what it will cost to replace the fan. HERE's a link to a repair company in London.

Can't really find much about the fans, themselves.

i'll not answer seeing you dont want random advice from harry's

thats good , then i'll get you the name of a very good and cheap firm here in belfast who repair pc's i'm sure

they are in england

I think Calum does repairs on quite a few laptops. And, he is in the UK, but I've no idea how far from you.

I think he's been away, and should return within a couple days. Keep an eye out for him to return and post somewhere here on the forum.

If he can't fix it for you, maybe he can at least give you a ballpark figure as to what to expect to pay. It sure won't cost you anything to ask.

sorry i did not get back ,this is the name and i have been going for 3 years to them no complaints , for their

own ink and parts very cheap


http://www.mplex.com/

http://uk.search.yahoo.com/search?p=mplex.com&fr=yfp-t-501&ei=UTF-8&rd=r1

Can anyone TELL me if the Northe Brige or SOUTH Brige controles the SPEED of these THINGS?

SATA Hard DRIVE Ports.
PCI Express Slots.
Keyboard and Mouse Ports.
E SATA Port.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northbridge_(computing)

Hi i have a problem with my CD rom drive. My problem is that under the device manager properties the comput recognizes that their is a cd rom drive and there is no exclamation points stating that there is a problem. When i press the cd tray to open it so i can insert a cd the computer starts to FREEZES up and not respond and the current program would freeze. The cd rom drive does not open. I tried to open the computer and unplug the cd rom cord from the back of the drive and and wait 10 second and reinsert the cord back but that did not work. I am using windows xp.Is it possible there's a DISC stuck in the unit? Use a paperclip and insert it in the small opening in the front of the drive (manual opening slot)seems like it may be a power issue. unplug the machine the machine an remove the molex an put it back in. If that dont work its possibly going badQuote from: ADG on August 27, 2009, 11:14:52 AM

Is it possible there's a disc stuck in the unit? Use a paperclip and insert it in the small opening in the front of the drive (manual opening slot)

Hi,

I am having a problem with the numeric keypad. When I use IE or Firefox, I have no problems. However, when I switch to Google Chrome, the numeric keypad changes. If you look at the #6 key, you SEE how it has an arrow to the right. Well, under Google chrome, that arrow becomes activated...sometimes. If I stop entering info and deliberately hit the 6 key, a six will show up instead of the cursor moving. This also happens with the 4, 2 and 8.

Now, under all three browsers, the num lock LIGHT is lit and the caps lock and scroll lock lights are off.

A friend had mentioned some of the pros and cons of the different browsers and I decided to try them out for a few days, but he has no idea as to what is causing the problem with the key pad. A spare computer at one of my JOBS has this same problem but with IE. Another friend suggested shutting down the computer, unplugging the keyboard for a minute, plug it back in and power up again, but it didn't help. Any ideas as to what it could be?

Thanks for the help. please repost in software secton
Quote from: smeezekitty on August 06, 2009, 10:49:13 PM

please repost in software secton

Why?

because if it was a hardware issue
then it would happen in all programs
it is ether the browser or the operating system

Hello, today i BOUGHT a Logitech LX8 cordless mouse from my computer store today thinking it was a good buy. I took it home and unwrapped it and it came with no software or drivers. It told me to go to www.logitech.com/downloads i did this and downloaded the driver/software i needed (setpoint480) i then installed this and it asked me to reset my computer and said the device should work once is reset. The computer COMES back on and i plug the usb reciever in WINDOWS vista then comes up with new device added, installing. Vista can then not find a driver and i tell it to search C:\program files where i installed the driver and no luck it cant find it. I then open up set point fiddle with every setting possible and read through the HELP file but no luck the mouse wont work. reinstalled the software/drivers a few times still no luck. so i thought i would try the version before it (setpoint472) and uninstalled 480 and tryed 472 and guess what no luck. i have racked my brains trying everything i can think of but it wont work. I am extremely annoyed that they sell this new with no information on how to install it and no help when it wont work. So if anyone can help me i would very much appreciate it OTHERWISE its going back to the shop.

cheers bennyHave you gone through the troubleshooting guide....

http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/428/3618&hub=1&selectedcrid=428&selectedcid=3618&cl=us,en

Hi,

I just installed Windows 7 on a new SATA Hard Drive, and after putting it to sleep, the monitor is blank when I tried to start it up with the power button.

Specs:
Motherboard - Asrock 939 Dual SataII - http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=939Dual-SATA2&s=Archives
Processor - AMD 64 3800+ (2 Ghz)
RAM - 4 GB
Graphics Card - BFG Geforce 8800 GT Factory Overclocked
PSU - Ultra 650?
Hard Drives
Plugged into SATAII Slot - Seagate Barracuda 1.5 TB
Plugged into SATA slot 1 - Seagate Barracuda 500 GB

This has happened to me a few times on a few different occassions in the past 2 days as I was upgrading, and if I unplug a drive or 2 from the motherboard (not the psu) it sometimes works, and I can see the BIOS popping up on the screen.

I've googled a little bit and the closest thing that makes sense is that the PSU might be getting overloaded.

Any ideas on what the PROBLEM might be?

Thanks!bump
Quote from: h4lt on August 14, 2009, 04:49:18 PM

bump

If you don't stop you'll be asked to leave...

patio
Moderator.

they never work as desired as you've learned first-hand...

Hi! I was wanting to add some RAM to my current pc from an older one I have and wasn't sure it would be compatible. So before I try it out, I was wanting to know if anyone could tell me if the RAM from my old pc might work with my current pc. My current pc is a Dell with Windows XP installed, and my old pc was a Compaq with Windows XP installed too. A tool from Crucial.com allowed me to scan my pc and it told me some information about my current RAM. It told me:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

* Maximum Memory Capacity: 2048MB
* Currently Installed Memory: 256MB
* Available Memory Slots: 1
* Total Memory Slots: 2
* Dual Channel Support: Yes
* CPU Manufacturer: GenuineIntel
* CPU Family: Intel(R) Celeron(R) CPU 2.66GHz Model 4, Stepping 1
* CPU Speed: 2658 MHz
* If you receive a "Memory available limited to 256MB!" message after installing more than 256MB, enter BIOS and turn OS Install to OFF. Exit saving changes.Although the memory can be installed one module at a time, the best performance comes from using matched pairs of modules.

Q: Will my system recognize the maximum upgrade?
A: Possibly

How much memory your Windows OS will recognize depends on which version of Windows you are running. 32-bit versions of Windows will see (and utilize) only 3GB or 3.5GB. To utilize more memory, install a 64-bit version of your OS. More information about OS memory maximums can be found at http://www.crucial.com/kb/answer.aspx?qid=4251.

Q: What memory goes into my computer, and can I mix speeds?
A: DDR memory with support for DDR PC2700,DDR PC3200 speeds.

Because DDR memory is backward-compatible, you can safely upgrade your system with any of the guaranteed-compatible DDR speeds listed below, even if your manual CALLS for PC1600 or PC2100 speeds.

Q: How much memory can my computer handle?
A: 2048MB.

Adding the maximum amount of memory will improve performance and help extend the useful life of your system as you run increasingly demanding software applications in the future.

Q: Do I have to install matching pairs?
A: No.

No, you can install modules one at a time, and you can mix different densities of modules in your computer. But if your computer supports dual-channel memory configurations, you should install in identical pairs (preferably in kits) for optimal performance.

Q: Does my computer support dual-channel memory?
A: Yes.

To benefit from the performance advantages offered by dual-channel systems, you should install memory in identical pairs. Installing a kitted pair is the best way to ensure that your modules are identical, right down to the chip count.

Q: Does my computer support ECC memory?
A: No.

Your system does not support ECC. Because ECC and non-ECC modules should not be mixed within a system, install the same type of modules that are already in your system.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The RAM from my old pc says:

* Hynix, Korea 04
* PC2100U-25330 0322
* HYMD116645B8-H AA
* 128MB DDR 266MHz CL2.5

I'm not sure what some of this means, and I've never install RAM before, so any assistance would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!the old ram will not be as fast and may actually make your performance worse instead of better
it should work but i would re comend against itThanks! So it would work, but wouldn't be much FASTER cause it's 128MB vs 256Mb right? As far as being compatible, would it MESS up my current pc if I installed it? I'll probably just buy a larger one later on, but I was just CURIOUS. Don't want to RUIN my pc if it's not compatible Thanks!With the risk of sounding like a shill for crucial, I recently bought some memory from them. I had shopped around and their prices were much better than anything else I found. I followed their recommendations and ordered the best fit for my budget. I paid for standard shipping but got it shipped 2 day FedEx. Popped it in and it worked perfect.On top of that their Warranty is pretty darn good...
I'd recommend buying the RAM as your computer will definitely benefit. Crucial is a good place to find out how much RAM you need using their scanner. There are plenty of places online where you can buy RAM these days. It's normally cheaper to buy online but as patio says make sure the RAM has a good warranty just in case anything goes wrong.



--
Matthew
HP laptops
if you buy the wrong ram
the computer wont boot or will be very slow
but once you put the correct ram back in it will be fine

In a perfect world, you'd just be able to remove the Intel CPU and replace it with a more efficient AMD CPU...... but alas, the connection (socket) for the two CPU's is totally different. You'd need a new motherboard. So, unless you're ready to buy a new motherboard, we won't go there.

But do check with your bios, to make sure your CPU is not overclocked.

Try this:
Remove the plastic face plate of your PC and get down to the steel frame. Now, see if there is any place in that frame for an extra fan. (like in the picture I sent you, of my own CASE).

Probably not, but it's sure worth the effort.

I've seen Hard Drives mounted like that and they usually run HOT!
I cool all my own HD's with two-fan coolers. Like this:

People who have tried this technique, just love it.
Even the highest performance, 10,000 rpm drives stay as cool as a cucumber.

The 1/4" brass spacers eliminate the "Air-Dam" that's created if you mount the cooler directly to the bottom of the drive, greatly increasing air flow and subsequently the drive COOLING.
Regardless of duty cycle, the drives will remain at room temperature, eliminating the expansion and contraction cycle that a drive normally goes through, during a normal days work.
That expansion and contraction will EVENTUALLY tear a drive apart.

In that side panel, there is an excellent place for a 5" fan. Think about the possibilities.
Your new PSU will surely have enough power to drive some extra fans.

Y'all have a great day now, Y'hear?
Shadow OK. I am beginning to think it may not be running hot. Today it shut down while I had the case open. My VC card has never gone over 70 degrees C.

The screen went into "sleep mode" and I REACHED over and turned it off. When went to turn it on it just power button blinked (the computer did not start) and I COULD hear a clicking noise from inside the computer. Well I REALIZED that the clicking noise was the CD drive clicking. I touched the bundle of wires coming from the PSU and motherboard and then the fans started clicking and "trying" to start up. I sort of wiggled these cables and the light turned off.

I have NO idea what to do.Are you sure that's not a Dell?

That's typical of a failing Dell.

Go through it and re-seat every cable.

Then take out the ram, clean the edge connectors and replace the ram.
All this, of course with the power cord unplugged.

Shadow And then borrow a PSU of the same wattage or greater and swap it in there overnight to see if that's the culprit...
Right now i suspect it is...

ok i have thsi old packard bell
486/25
12mb ram
130watt PSU
and lately the psu is getting to hot to touch and the fan sounds really odd
what could be causing this?
PSU is on the way out...might want to change it before it takes something else with it....thats what i thoughtFinding a PSU that will fit in that will be difficult, I believe. It's not a standard ATX case. Bout time to send that one to the computer museum, isn't it? I used to have a Packard Bell 486 with a 25Mhz processor when new (later upgraded to 75MHz CPU) but it's long gone now.i really like old stuff
and thats why i argue with BC_programmerI still have a Pentium 75mhz thinkpad, myself actually. I mostly used it for older DOS games, like (lol) Sopwith, my favourite DOS game ever. (heh, it uses CGA). but it doesn't work anymore. oh well.


is this an older PSU that uses the good ol' P8 and P9 connectors, or a 20-pin connector? I believe you can get adapters that go one way or the other.


by sounds odd- do you mean it's louder?sounds like a loud hummming noise
and suddenly it will go quite
and then START getting loudersounds like my old k6-2 before I replaced the power supply- it worked just fine, for over 3 years after it began that, (it never failed though... I ended up replacing the beast).

but that was a 20-Pin ATX PSU, pretty easy to come by.one more thing is the CD-ROM drive doesnt work
its setup in an odd way
the cd rom is pluged into a sound card
that is pluged into an ISA slot in a splitter card that turns
the 1 ISA on the motherboard into 3
but the cdrom doesnt work
and the drivers cannot detect the sound card or cdrom
any ideas?This was common in older PC's.
Try removing and re-seating the sound card and re-install the drivers...
Unfortunately if the sound card is dead=no CDRom.the sound cad works if i drive it as if it was a creatve sound blaster
but if i USE it as it is (reveal) the driver does not detect itQuote from: smeezekitty on August 26, 2009, 09:33:49 PM

the sound cad works if i drive it as if it was a creatve sound blaster
but if i use it as it is (reveal) the driver does not detect it

ok i have thsi old packard bell
486/25
12mb ram
130watt psu
and lately the psu is getting to hot to touch and the fan sounds really odd
what could be causing this?

dust is probably clogging it.

i cant HELP but notice that every time my computer falls asleep and i go back on it my external hard drive has to connect again, is the computer properly disconnecting my harddrive or is it the same as just pulling the USB out? EITHER way if its a bad thing how can i FIX it?Check your power settings in control panel for the usb options (and EVERYTHING else, while you're there ).

Ok, had my old gaming computer crash about a month ago. Turns out its a motherboard that is FRIED. The HD is fine, it has XP on it, but more importantly, all of my digital pictures of my family and trips over the past 5 years.

But its ok.... I had a MirraServer personal backup.

Oh wait, last week it went pfffftttttttttt in an electrical storm.

Sooo....

I now have a ProMagix A51 Desktop with VISTA installed.

QUESTION:

Is it possible for me to scavenge the HD's from the previously mentioned and install them on my computer to get the pictures back?

I know that there are probably the following potential issues:

1. Power Supply
2. VISTA and XP
3. Owner being CLUELESS except to simply plug them in and turn the computer onJust install the drive in the new computer as a second drive. That's it. You may have to take ownership of the files on the XP drive (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/308421) to ACCESS them.Yes, that worked. I had to disconnect the CD ROM from the IDE slot and plug in the HD since the other HD's in the new system USE SATA connectors.

But was able to access as an administrator all of my files and copied over all that mattered.

Wife was estatic when she got home.

Thanks for your help.You're welcome - this was an easy one

We have just changed the ink cartridges on our printer and now when we turn it on the ink and paper jam BUTTONS flash alternatively.

We have tried unplugging it.

We need to be ABLE to move the cartridge bay but it won't let us do it as the lights are flashing.

Any suggestions?I just found your manual online, at this page http://support2.epson.net/manuals/english/ij/stylusc87plus/use_g/html/trble_1.htm

And lo and behold, it says unknown printer error, and that you should contact the manufacturer.

However, i have found int he PAST that if the printer is off, and you are gentle enough, you can move the cartridge holder yourself with a small amount of force. as long as you grab it as far back as possible, you'll be sorted.Thanks for the reply. I have the manual but suspect that the time is up for the printer but just wanted to get ONE more job out of it. Will try to force it over - i was just really afraid of breaking it.

Thanks again!

I have a canon imageclass mpc190, i NEED the driver for this printer i have been to
canon SITE but no luck there.
Does any ONE have a driver for this MODEL or KNOW where to get one downloaded.The drivers for the 190 are on many sites. The cannnon site in Autralia is one of many.
http://www.canon.com.au/products/

Click on support and go to driver downloads.

I Have A PC Running Windows XP SP2, Ram-2GB DDR2, 250GB SATA HDD, NVIDIA 8500 GT Graphics, Core2 Duo E6550 Processor And Intel DG33FB MOTHERBOARD. Few Days Back I Formatted The C DRIVE And When Loading Drivers, Realtek Audio Driver Failed To Install And After Few Try I Installed It And After That An Annoying Problem Occurs That Is The HD Audio Manager Pops Up And Saying "Audio Jack Plugged" And Within Few Second Again Pops Up And Said "Audio Jack Uplugged". I Tried By Unchecking Sensors Of That Manager And Also Updated With August 2009 Version Of Realtek WDM Driver. NOTHING Worked. But Audio Is Plying. PLEASE HELP. LOOSE connection, check it.

I've been looking at video cards and I think I've finally NARROWED it down to one......however, I see this card produced by several different manufacturers (i.e. BFG, PNY, XFX, EVGA, etc.) with different prices and some different specs. I'm not certain which manufacturer to go with. Should I shop by manufacturer?...or price?
I'm looking for the best I can FIND for under $200.

Any suggestions?Choose a manufacturer based on their warranty, customer service, and reputation.
EVGA, BFG and XFX are all great manufacturers with good customer service, look at the warranty each is offering on their specific card and then the price.
Any suffixes after GTX 260, e.g. GTX260OC, usually mean that the card is factory overclocked, meaning it will be slightly faster than a standard card. My advice is to ignore those suffixes. I'm not saying don't buy one, I'm saying don't spend extra to get one. A few dollars might be worth it if the overclock is fairly good, but usually those models cost quite a bit more and thus aren't as good value for money as the standard cards.

Hope this helps.Thanks Calum.

Has anyone out there had any experience with this card? I have seen alot of great feedback on the sites which sell this card and the only con is the size.I haven't used one myself but I keep up with hardware.
The GTX260 is one of the best cards in terms of price/performance at the MINUTE. It will handle most GAMES out there at high settings, as long as it's paired with a DECENT processor.
As for the size, it is a large card but so are a lot of mid/high-end cards nowadays. Do check that it will fit in your case, and won't block any ports or bays.Thanks

I have printer Hp Laserjet 1020 , and suddenly its just printing all FULL black in the entire page. I have tried to replace the toner and the problem is still there. What should i do to fix the ERROR?. Thanks in advance. 1) Go to the HP Site and download the newest driver
2) UNINSTALL the current HP driver from your system
3) Reboot your system
4) DISCONNECT the printer from AC power then reconnect
5) Install the new printer driver

If this doesn't solve the problem you need to contact HP support

Hello, this is my first post!

Have the following problem:

When I connect my camera to my computer via a USB, my computer is giving me an error message saying the external hard drive has malfunctioned. When I unplug the camera from the usb, then the hard drive immediately pops up asking me if I want to transfer PICS or backup files. I am guessing the hard drive is not initiating correctly while the camera is connected. Neither device malfunctions when RUNNING alone, its the combination of the two that triggers the error message from the Hard drive USB.

The hard drive is an HP HD1600 160GB

The camera is a Lumix

I am using WINDOWS Vista

Ive tried unplugging the computer from all POWER supplies and I always connect and reconnect the USB devices the right way.


Do you have the Lumix camera software/drivers installed correctly for Vista? You might try uninstall/reinstall.
haven't tried that, (so I will) but USB for the hard drive is whats giving me the error message. It sounds like the two devices are putting interference across the same USB Hub. is is possible to try them in different hubs? eg one in the back of the machine, and one in the front?tried both in the front and one in the back one in front and nothing checked drivers all up to date. havent tried both in back though. how would i delete the camera DRIVER to re-install?Remove it in Device Manager...
Then check Add/Remove Programs for the camera software and remove that also...

NOTE: Since it's a USB Device DO NOT plug the camera in until the software prompts you to on the clean install...this may be what went wrong the first time.

Physical Memory
Total 254mb
used 175mb
free 79mb
utilization 69%

Is there something I can do to utilize more % of the memory?Also toward the bottom of that Everest memory screen =
Physical Address Extension (PAE)
supported by OPERATING system = yes
supported by CPU = yes
Active = No

Do I need this active and if yes, how do I do it?What's your OS (and that's probably where this post belongs, by the way)?Celeron 667mhz
Intel 82810 chipset
Windows XP home SP2
128mb x2 RAM
80gb WD IDE
10gb Seagate IDE

Sorry about placement. I figured memory would be 'Hardware'. Unlike Vista, XP will not use all available memory. But don't worry about it, XP does have a pretty good memory management scheme and will do what it needs to without your involvement.Okay. 'control panel > system > advanced > (performance) settings > advanced > memory usage' I have it set to use memory for best performance of "System Cache". The other option is "Programs". I really can't tell any difference between the two. What should it be set at to get more speed out of this 256mb RAM (Maximum allowed for this MB) system?It should absolutely be set for "Programs"Done. Thanks. You're welcome. And here's a good page for you to look at when you have time: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/308417 Quote

Total 254mb

But the PC manufacturer specs say max is 256mb

Windows 2K should run fine here.

I think that he means to say to check your Color Management.

I don't see that changing your color depth will solve anything.color management thats what its called
try anotehr moniter toook, as i said i am a real novice, how does one go about checking "colour management"? please..............OH and by the way, i'm female!
PaulineHave you checked your video card properly seated?(If you have one) ....The fact you just moved the computer leads me to believe you may have dislodged the card slightly during your move. The monitor plugs into this card. Remove the card and carefully reseat it. Remember to touch the metal case BEFORE touching the component.....KARNAC i dont think pkb1 knows how to do that
you can download power strip to adjust color management
check any items on taskbar
some you can right click and a video menu come upBumpQuote from: smeezekitty on August 12, 2009, 11:13:11 PM

Bump

Hey guys,

Was wondering if use could tell me what kind of slot this is, GRAPHICS card? Ive looked at pics of PCI, PCI express and AGP and none of them look like this one. It's also quite an old compaq motherboard (well whole comp for that matter). Am I better just buying a newer motherboard? If it is just a normal slot, can you please recommend a decent card or RANGE? Sorry if the pic isnt even a gc slot

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f145/Technolog1c/P15-08-09_2000.jpg

AlanFrom seeing one on e-bay, that slot is a Graphics Connector (AGP)AGP4x
If you Google MS-6577 VERR 3.1, you will find information on this motherboard.
yup, thats an agp. How much MONEY do you have to spend on this? What are you doing on your computer that you need a new gpu? How many watts is the psu?Quote from: computeruler on August 15, 2009, 01:53:55 PM

yup, thats an agp.

Recently installed a psu&gpu. My computer is one of those pre-built ones so I had to upgrade the psu. After a lot of SETBACKS it has come to this. The computer when powered, does not beep [I read that this is bad]. The computer powers up and everything. Fans from the motherboard,psu,gpu+the extra fan powers up. Also the aspire logo in front of the casing lights up. The LCD monitor displays the Acer logo and the options; press DEL/F12 to set up etc. Problem now is that keyboard lights goes on [caps,num,scroll], after that the keyboard/mouse does not respond at all. I cannot use the keyboard/mouse to log in or even press DEL/F12. I can try and provide some more info you ask!

Here is the details of the computer
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/1363/3453e.jpg

The psu and gpu I bought.
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703017
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102822

Sorry , got to ask...have you got the mouse and KB plugs in the proper ports?as karnac says are they pluged in correctly?
are they usb or ps/2?
are you sure the psu leads going into the motherboard are tightI think so, the purple plug goes to the purple hole and the mouse is a usb but there is this green attachment that has a usb on the back, and holes that looks identical to the keyboard plug. But I don't use the green thing I just plug the mouse to a usb port.
I'll try to read your input later!

Thanks for replying!!turn the computer off make sure the keyboard plug is firmly inserted and turn it back on
you havent hotpluged the ps/2 port have you?What do you mean by hot plug sirQuote from: GlueColle on August 24, 2009, 05:49:04 PM

What do you mean by hot plug sir

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hot_swapping

Try this and see if it works.....

Start your computer, wait until the screen come up where the KB and mouse freeze, then use the restart button on the front of the pc to restart it......in some cases the KB and mouse will start working after the restart....does that board take a four pin auxiliary power connector from the PSU?

Iwant to format my harddisk and reinstall windows xp.
I have Toshiba A10 laptop with 160g hard disk, 1 g Ram, cd/dvd drive and the restore disk (cd) of course.
Problem: restore disk is not RECOGNIZED by cd drive. when I insert the disk and restart, boot sequence goes to hard drive and boots from there
What I did:
1. checked if drive sees other cd s. Answer yes it does
2. checked bios boot sequence as well as toshiba console hardware set up
answer both is incd "rom/lan/floppy/hdd" order,
3. I cleaned the restore disk , did not work
4. I ordered another set of restore disk from Toshiba, did not work still not recognized
5. believe it or not I bought an external cd/dvd drive, in this case disk starts working, I get a WARNING screen says all data will be lost and asks me to click if I want to contininue, when I click it says computer will now reboot and it DOEST and goes back to the hard drive boot.

I don't know what to do , will somebady please advise.I believe, with Toshiba, you have to HOLD 0 (zero) key while booting to boot from CD.

Hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone could help me, and hope this is the right thread.

I recently purchased a second hand computer and its seems to be okay (was just a VERY cheap thing to muck about with).

But, the computer loads to the Windows loading screen, waits there for a few minutes then my monitor says "computer resolution needs to be changed to 1024 x 768". Its a pretty old monitor so could it be that the resolution that the computer is set to is too high for my monitor. If so, how could I change it if I cant access the computer? Could I borrow a friends newer monitor and see if that works?

Any help wold be really appreciated

Thanks,

Alanyou can START in Safe MODE, using F8 right before windows starts booting. Select "safe mode" from the screen that appears.

After it starts, you can change the resolution on the PC to 1024x768, and reboot.You can press F8 during boot and then select Safe Mode, then set your resolution lower there, then resart normallyQuote from: BC_Programmer on August 10, 2009, 07:38:58 PM

you can start in Safe mode, using F8 right before windows starts booting. Select "safe mode" from the screen that appears.

After it starts, you can change the resolution on the PC to 1024x768, and reboot.

you can start in Safe mode, using F8 right before windows starts booting. Select "safe mode" from the screen that appears.

After it starts, you can change the resolution on the PC to 1024x768, and reboot.

Hi all,
it's been really long TIME since last i've been here, but so i've to come back, cause i've some problems with my PC again=/ but this time some serious ones... So lets get to point.
OK.. so firstly i've DOWNLOADED one song, and while it was downloading and when it finished it( downloading i mean) my anti-virus(NOD32) didn't give me any alert or something like that. And so after 2weeks my pc started to restart, usualy about 1-3 time i turn it on.. And then i made 3scanes for my pc with different anti-viruses, and they found virus(that song) and so i've deleted it and everything ASSOCIATED with it, but still problem remains the same restarting and restarting and amount of time after it's getting restarted it's getting smaller and smaller (not by much but i've noticed it) so re-installed windows and it got even worse started to restart after 5mins and when i tried to install drivers it just shutted down and now when i try to turn off pc, it doesn't even load, don't even make some noise nothing...
So i've tried to run pc without main parts of pc (rams/video card/HDD), but it's same thing and also i've talked to few of my friends who are more advanced in PC issues and stuff.. And 1of them told me that it's something wrong with my Motherboard and other told me that i've problem with my Power supply, but i dunno which it is =/
So i need your help, from as far what you see can you help to FIGURE out what should i change ? (motherboard or power supply )
=/
P.S. thx in advance
P.P.S. srr for bad englishpowersupply or ram
first remove the cmos battery with the wall PLUG out
for a minit or so to clear any bad bios data
also reseat the ram
if you can get it to boot
run memtest
otherwise i would try replaceing ram and or power supply
----edit----
you maybe able to barrow psu

Go to Device Manager, and UNINSTALL all USB hubs, and roots.
Restart. They'll be automatically reinstalled. WINDOWS does not have a problem its the problem is in the bios Sir, what if you try first what Broni's suggestion? If still you'll be having a problem in your mouse, load your CMOS default values.. i loaded cmos back to default now it says there is front fan failure and my front fan has stopped spinning i think i will just replace the motherboard that should solve all my problems Quote from: Broni on June 13, 2009, 01:29:41 PM

Go to Device Manager, and uninstall all USB hubs, and roots.
Restart. They'll be automatically reinstalled.

windows does not have a problem ok guys windows is fine any way i got a new motherboard and now it works perfectly