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Hey all I am NEW here and boy do I have an interesting problem. Right to the chase, I have a two year old HP S3100N Slimline. I have a fresh install of Vista Home Premium with all the recent updates installed. Here is my issue, I had a problem with my processor ( AMD x64 dual core 2.1ghz ) overheating (in upwards of 60*C) due to bad thermal paste. So I thought BINGO, I redo the paste and here we go again with the freezing. It's not locking up but it will freeze for two or three seconds then go for five and so on until Monday. On Monday it will run fine for a while then start up again but now it will freeze indefinitely until I grab my heat sink and move it either up, down, or towards me and hold it there to keep it going, if I let go it freezes again so I do it again and it then works even after I let it go. One other THING is if I choose to restart the computer I have to turn it on and off several times while FIDGETING with the heat sink to get it do even enter the bios but once it start the boot process it works fine for a while. Now I have tested my cpu fan which is ok, tested my processor temp and voltage which is good. I'm wondering if maybe the motherboard has issues or if there is anyone out there who has had this HAPPEN and can help me. FYI my motherboard is an ASUS M2NC51-AR. Any help would be very much appreciated.sounds to me like your solder joints are broken around your cpu. when you re-applied the thermal paste what type and brand did you use?? also tell me the procedures you took to replace the thermal paste on your cpu?!The first thing I did was shut down, unplug the computer, unplug the cpu fan, removed heat sink screws and took it off, I then removed the fan from the heat sink and used LPS residue free contact cleaner to clean the fan and fins, removed the cpu and cleaned all the old paste off the sink and cpu, appled a small + shaped bead of paste on the processor and reinstalled it and locked it in, I then put my fan and sink assembly onto the processor and did a small wiggle in a circular motion and started each screw in a diagnal pattern and tightened them two turns at a time in the same fasion and plugged everything back up and fired it up. The paste I used is Antec formula 5Well it sounds like you did the technique exactly how it sholud be done...
Time to look for bent/broken pins on the CPU...ok i had to make sure you cleaned the old thermal paste off alot of people just leave it on and add more!!! anyways i would say you have broken soldier joints. what i would do is inspect the area around the cpu to see if there are any breaks. if there are then you know what to do!!! patch patch patch!!!!! also as patio says look for bent/broken pins.I checked the pins while the CPU was out so I guess its solder time, is it possible to solder these yourself or should I take it is somewhere? I'm very skilled in the general repair field but have never attempted a CPU socket before and don't want to make it worse but I don't want to spend a fortune either. Any recommendations or tips be fore I attempt this?well if you have never attempted to soldier before i would watch the video below of how to soldier first. if you feel you are up to it go for it! but i would recommend you get it professionally repaired! because one mishap can fault your entire mb!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4good video and thanks for the advise! I have soldered before but just nothing this complex. I will give it a shot, wish me luck lol and thanks!GOOD LUCK!!!

Yepper...Then STALK AWAY my FRIEND. Stalk away.

Hi,

I'm in the current stage of upgrading my gaming desktop (by 3 stages), and I've come to a question of what of the CPU/GPU to upgrade first, and what CPU/GPU combo to buy.

I'm looking for great looking gaming of any of the modern games, and also good performance in multimedia projects that I do.

The system is in it's second stage out of three and currently has:

CPU: Intel PENTIUM D 805 2.7 GHZ
RAM: GEIL 2GB DDR2 800 SDRAM
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce 7800 GTX 512
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 SATA II 1 TB
PSU: Antec TruePower New 550W
MB: Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3LR

I was thinking of a:
CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo E8xxx/E7xxx series
GPU: Nvidia GeForce GTX 260 Core 216 SP

Thanks in advance. What MBoard are you planning on ? ?I have already bought and installed the planned motherboard ~ Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3LR

(My old MBoard was an AsRock 775i945GZ)I've researched a bit, and found maybe an Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 could be a costly, but good option for the CPU.

I'm also thinking that because I game at lower than 1900x1200, I should upgrade the CPU first for a significant improvement.

[EDIT: I was also researching POSSIBLE graphics cards, looking for price/performance factor,

So I ended up with either:

*ATI RADEON HD4850 512
*NVIDIA GeForce GTS 250 512

With their respective price/performance being 7.59/7.60.

I also tested the ATI HD4870 512 in the same method with:

7.85 as the price/performance factor.

Any suggestions?]Personally I would update the CPU first. Chances are they won't get that much cheaper over the next few months, in that time PERIOD the price of a GPU can come down far more.

Ok, ive looked very place in the internet that i could think of with no luck. My question is this. Why is it that i keep losing my OS. After every two, if im lucky, five days or more, i lose my OS and i have to re-install my OS. Ive tried installing other OS, re partition, format, etc, but i keep loseing my OS.how do you know you are losing you OS?
does it SAY missing operating system?
if so
then you are not just losing your os but you are probubuly losing your harddriveEvery two or five days i turn on my pc, but it ends up going to the black screen with those little white words saying, "Missing Operating System"

If it is as you say than how can i fix it. Ive opened my computer and made sure that the CABLES werent lose on the harddrive. Could it be something on the bios.

What ever it could be i would like to know how to fix this.your harddrive must be ready to fail
thats all i can say
unless bad ram is corrupting it
downloa memtest86
and let it run 3 passes (takes a long time)
if there are any errors you have bad ram
otherwise i would say hddRun hard drive diagnostics: http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287
Make sure, you select tool, which is appropriate for the brand of your hard drive.
Depending on the program, it'll create bootable floppy, or bootable CD.
If downloaded FILE is of .iso type, use ImgBurn: http://www.imgburn.com/ to burn .iso file to a CD (select "Write image file to disc" option), and make the CD bootable.

NOTE. If your hard drive is made by Toshiba, unfortunately, you're out of luck, because Toshiba doesn't provide any diagnostic tool.I did the memtest thing and i passed 12 times.

I did the test above me and i passed the test, my was seagate.

So is there any other problems that could be causeing this to happen.

maybe if this helps this is my computer and OS

Compaq Presario sR1920NX
Windows vista business

and my os cd lets me install vista without entering the serial code, but i do have it. Also the os was given to me for free cause i was in a program and networking class that gave me CERTAIN micosoft software for free and other things.Sorry there is no doubt in my mind!!! Your HDD is damaged even though the hdd diagnostic came back neg.! get a replacement and all will be fine!!! The Topic title strangelt enough reminds me of an REM song......my religion?

What is "strangelt"?While I don't know why you're losing the operating system, perhaps you can repair "access" to it: REPAIRING the Windows 7/Vista Bootloader.ill try the above as well.

Hi to all, I have a MALFUNCTIONING flash drive due to overheat. Is there a way to fix this? Any reply is highly appreciated. Thanks in advance.....When the flash drive gets hot, what happens to it? Does it stop working until it cools down again?That's WEIRD; I never before HEARD of a flash drive overheating. Does it do this on all computers it's connected to? If it only happens with your computer, I'm inclined to think it's a problem with the USB function of your computer, not the flash drive.

My flash drive doesn't function anymore . I tried to plug it to ANOTHER computer but still its not functioning. If u leave it for 5 mins the flash drive gets hot.... Is my flash drive DEAD?It sounds like it.

I have a old Dell AIO 926 and am unable to get the drivers to install from the OEM disc I'm also wanting to use this printer on a wired network. What can I do to get this to work? More information. What happens when you try to install the drivers? Tell us something about the computer.The computer I'm trying to install on is a Dell Dimension 3000. The OEM CD won't auto run so I have to manually try to get it to run. Even when I do get the CD to run I can't find the printer I've even had this problem when trying to install it on a Dell Dimension 2400 with that I could get the drivers to install but they would not stay installed after a reboot
Didn't really care about the brand of computer as much as the OS. And have you tried downloading the CURRENT driver from the web? Are you sure you are following the instructions for installing the driver (in many cases you aren't supposed to connect the printer to the computer until prompted by the install ROUTINE).

What do you mean they would not "stay installed after a reboot". Come on - provide COMPLETE data.The OS is Windows XP Home And have you tried downloading the current driver from the web? Couldn't find one Are you sure you are following the instructions for installing the driver (in many cases you aren't supposed to connect the printer to the computer until prompted by the install routine). Didn't have any instructions with itQuote

Note: Before proceeding with your driver installation we suggest you make sure you are installing the latest version available and for the appropriate model/revision and Operating System. We strongly suggest following 'readme' instructions for installing drivers when available. Often restarting your system will be necessary for the new driver to become active and start functioning properly.

Release notes:

This package contains Dell All-In-One Printer 926 drivers for Windows XP 32-bit and Vista 32-bit. Once downloaded and executed the driver will install automatically and guide the user through the setup process.

Are you sure you are following the instructions for installing the driver (in many cases you aren't supposed to connect the printer to the computer until prompted by the install routine).

From that page:

Any questions see my sig.

My RES is the same and everything looks fine.i have 1280x768 it looks alittle funny
but it doesnt change the pageIt does not FIT my screen. Since that code tag in REPLY #3 was added, the lines of text on the entire page are wider than my screen will show. Because of this I have to shift my screen horizontally in order to read the end of each text line. This is annoying and because of it I generally just skip over threads this wide (as do some other viewers). i didnt skip over the thread but i skiped over the code tagQuote from: manadude2 on September 04, 2009, 10:45:48 AM

It does...

Anyhow, it has been changed to a quote.

Oh, I see now.ADG: When I get back to my machine nesxt week i will try what you suggested and get back to you then. Thanks againOkay. I'll try to remember to keep CHECKING this thread.ADG: It seems to be acting up now only when I am on line. Especially when I am playing with Farmtown on Facebook. I suppose that I am a bit old to be using facebook but with 22 kids, grandkids, and GREAT grandkids it a a good way to keep track of what is going on in the family.
When I use Internet Explorer (process iexplorer.exe) the memory usage is about 450 Mbytes and CPU uses about 98% of the time; and when I use Firefox (process firefox.exe) the memory usage is about 250 Mbytes and still about 98% of the time.
MY response time is also much quicker with firefox especially with Farmtown. There are several other processes taking up lots of mem usage put not much CPU time. About 35 of them. A lot of them seem to be dual, triple or even more redundant. Like svchost.exe. There are 7 of them. I seem to be rambling here. Does this tell you anything? Well, again Jim - what I'd like to know is which process is eating the cycles when the cpu spikes to 98%. Sort the cpu column in task manager and tell us which process has the highest usage when the cpu is at 98%. Don't worry about the multiple svchost.exe processes (here's an explanation: http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/what-is-svchostexe-and-why-is-it-running/)

Also, I'd like you to download MalwareBytes and/or Super Antispyware and run full scans of your system. Also do the same with your Anti Virus utility (make sure it has the latest definitions.ADG: When I am off line, sometimes the process "avgcsrvx.exe" is using about 98% of cpu time and other times it may be one called "helpsvc.exe". When I am on-line it is either "iexplorer.exe" or "ifirefox.exe" depending on which browser I am using.
I downloaded "Malwarebytes" and "Super Antispyware" and ran them and the problem appears to have gone AWAY when I am offline. I'm not sure. Thanks, JIMavgcsrvx.exe is your AVG anti virus running a scan. You can change the schedule of when or how often it runs and you can change the scanning priority.

For helpsvc.exe go here: http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;en-us;839017AVG is the first one...how do you have your UPDATES and scans setup ? ?
They are probably running in the background and will slow performance...

I have mine set to update at 5AM and scan at 6AM...I think a key question is how much RAM do you have. If you only have 256MB av programs can be painfull and you need to upgrade to at least 1 GBOK FELLAS, thanks a bunch. I have changed my av updates and scans to early am. I will have to turn my PC on earlier than I have been.....As for helpsvc.exe, I already have SP3 so I dunno.

Also, RThompson, I do have 1 Gbyte of ram. I learned that lesson a long time ago when I had (ugh) Norton

I think maybe you have solved my problem, Thank you all very much. Once again you guys have come through for me. GB, JIM1. It is partition, not Partion
2. Each partition is the same speed.Quote from: neelchauhan on September 04, 2009, 10:17:38 AM

1. It is partition, not Partion
2. Each partition is the same speed.

1. It is partition, not Partion
2. Each partition is the same speed.

I just purchased a refurbished HP computer and it seems to be working GREAT except that after about
30-45 minutes of use the screen begins to scramble and needs to be restarted. The monitor I'm using with it is brand new, its a Synaps 24" LCD monitor. The computer is a Compaq and is set up as follows:

Windows XP Professional, Version 2002, SERVICE Pack 3
Pentium 4, 3.00GHz
0.99 GB of RAM

Intel 82865G Graphics Controller

What's wrong with it?It sounds like the onboard graphics is having issues.

I know it's refurbished, but they generally have a limited warranty, is it still covered?i ASSUME you mean 1gb RAM
are you doing anything processor intesnive when it goes crazy
download speedfan and post the temps
make sure the moniter is pluged in tightQuote from: Quantos on August 23, 2009, 05:34:19 PM

It sounds like the onboard graphics is having issues.

I know it's refurbished, but they generally have a limited warranty, is it still covered?

Well when I pull up the system info it says its 0.99 RAM, so I don't know what that means, maybe I got jipped .01 of RAM?

I replaced my old mouse a couple of days ago primarily because of this issue, though it seems my new mouse has the same PROBLEM so I'm WONDERING if the problem lies elsewhere.

When I hold my right mouse BUTTON down, it will occasionally act as if it isn't being held down at all, usually only for a moment. This is easily noticeable, and to me very frustrating, in World of Warcraft, where turning your character is done by holding the right mouse button and moving the mouse. Also, while a mouse button is being held, the cursor will vanish, making the problem really obvious when it reappears while the right mouse button is still held down.

This is a major issue on fights that require a lot of MOVEMENT or turning (if you know the game, Yogg-Saron is a good example).

It's not a case of me accidentally letting go of the button, as there is an audible click when it is pressed or depressed. It does seem to not happen when I hold the button harder, but that can actually be quite tiring and not really viable for gameplay, if there is a better solution.

I did try to search the forum for similar issues, but couldn't come up with any terms that were specific enough.

I have a fairly new monitor (no more than 5 YEARS old), its a TFT and I have managed to burn an image into the screen by playing old DOS games. Is this curable or is it as ruined as an old CRT monitor after you burn an image in? I didn't know that you could still burn images into monitors.I would say its ruined still under WARRANTY? This type of thing almost assuredly falls under a warranty claim. LCD is supposedly impervious to screen burn-in, but I BELIEVE that sometimes manufacturing defects can make it possible.Quote from: Accessless on August 14, 2009, 05:33:29 AM

(no more than 5 years old)

After 3+ years neither one of them is going to help you...especially on a monitor.
Sorry.

Hi,

I just installed Windows 7 RC on a new SATA Drive, but my previous SATA Drive, with Windows XP is not being detected in the Windows 7 installation. If I boot into Windows XP, the new SATA Drive is not detected either.

Any ideas on fixing this?

My Motherboard - http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=939Dual-SATA2&s=Archives

Please let me know if I've MISSED anything, or if this BELONGS in the software category.

Thanks for any help in advance. God bless!bump
Quote from: h4lt on August 14, 2009, 04:49:36 PM

bump

Why are you bumping someone else's Topic ? ?

Or is that you ? ?

Well we can't be expected to follow who's on each team...
Glad you got it solved however.

Agreed - didn't expect you to, just stating why - so he's not flagged as a robot

When I PLUG my usb belkin f5d8053v4 n WIRELESS adapter into any computer,
on my device manager page "802.11 n WLAN" device shows up with the error that the drivers are not installed. so of course i have downloaded and installed the latest drivers from the belkin website. i tried to manually tell the computer where to find the drivers, with no luck, and i have used driverguides.com's driverkit with no luck, and pcpitstop's driverscan without any luck. any help?note: all of the COMPUTERS use windows xp sp3

here is the hardware ID that i managed to get out out it.

USB\Vid_050d&Pid_8053&Rev_0101That Part# does not show up on Belkin's driver site...Is the service enabled?

What OS are you running?

i am having

Processor: AMD Athlon™ X2 Model 3600+ Operating Mode 64 Bit
Core Speed (MHz) 1900
Voltages 1.25V/1.35V
Max Temps (C) 49-72
Wattage 65 W
Virtualization YES
L1 Cache Size (KB) 128
L1 Cache Count 2
L2 Cache Size (KB) 512
L2 Cache Count 2
CMOS 65nm SOI
Socket AM2



Mother board : Asus M2N-VM DVI

- Supports Playback of HD DVD and Blu-ray Discs with HDCP COMPLIANT
- Support Dual-VGA output (DVI-D&RGB)
- Support AMD Socket AM2+ CPU
- Integrated Nvidia® Geforce®7Series Shader model3.0 DirectX 9 graphics processor
- Chipset Nvidia nForce630a(MCP68PVNT) - PCI Express x16 architecture
- 2 GB Dual channel DDR2 RAM
- 32 GB SATA
CPU Support AMD® Socket AM2+/ AM2 Phenom FX(2000MT/s)/Phenom(2000MT/s)/
Athlon 64 X2 / Athlon 64 FX / Athlon 64/ Sempron processors
AMD Cool 'n' Quiet™ Technology
AMD64 architecture enables simultaneous 32-bit and 64-bit computing
Front Side Bus 2000 / 1600 MT/s
Memory Dual channel memory architecture
4 x 240-pin DIMM, support max. 8GB DDR2 800/667/533 ECC, Non-ECC, un-buffered memory
VGA Integrated Nvidia® Geforce®7Series Shader model3.0 DirectX 9 graphics processor
Maximum shared memory of 256 MB
Supports RGB with max. resolution 1920 x1440 (@70Mhz*32bpp/75Mhz*16bpp)
Supports DVI-D with max. resolution 1920 x 1200 (@60Mhz)
Supports DVI-D with HDCP compliant with max. resolution 1920 x 1080p*
Dual VGA output support:RGB & DVI
Note: DVI-D can not be converted to output RGB Signal to CRT.

Storage 1 x UltraDMA 133/100
4 x Serial ATA 3Gb/s supporting RAID 0, RAID 1,RAID10,RAID 5 and JBOD

Audio ALC662 High Definition Audio 6-channel CODEC
Supports S/PDIF out interface and Jack-detect
USB 10 USB2.0/1.1 ports

Overclocking Features SFS (Stepless Frequency Selection) from 200MHz to 300MHZ
at 1MHz increment
Special Features ASUS MyLogo2
ASUS CrashFreeBIOS3
ASUS EZ Flash2
ASUS Q-Fan

BIOS 8Mb Flash ROM, AMI BIOS, PnP, DMI2.0, WfM2.0, SMBIOS 2.4

Manageability WfM 2.0, DMI 2.0, WOR by Ring, PME Wake Up
Accessories User' s manual
1 x Serial ATA cable
1 x SATA power cable
1 x UltraDMA 133/100 cable
1 x FDD cable
1 x I/O Shield

Support CD Drivers
ASUS PC Probe II
ASUS LiveUpdate Utility
Anti -virus software(OEM version)

Form Factor uATX Form Factor, 9.6" x 8.8" (24.4cm x 22.4cm)

The hard drive crashed on my 2003 Dell Inspiron 5100. I get an error message with a blue screen that says, 'Unmountable Boot Volume'. I ran a diagnostics test and the hard drive is bad. So I'd like to stick a 160GB hard drive in it. Three different Dell hardware techs say I cannot use anything bigger than a 40GB hard drive - if I do the laptop won't work, they say. I thought I'd run this past the forum. In general, this is what all three techs had to say:

"If you put a 160gb in there it will get detected by the system however, when you install the operating system (WindowsXP) it will not detect the hard drive. You cannot install an OS on a 160gb hard drive on this system. This system will not support beyond 40gbs. The system is not designed for anything more than 40gbs. To work with the system we need to boot to Windows. So, that only happens when we install Windows on the system. And that basically gets installed on the hard drive. So, how can you work with the system when you cannot install the operating system on the hard drive?"

"The maximum hard drive it will support is 40gb. If you put a 160gb drive, probably the motherboard would not support it, the computer would not detect it. Your computer was manufactured in 2003. At that time there was a different technology. So the technology was not that advanced. It would detect only 40gbs. Every model has a different hard drive. A 120gb, a 160gb... would have different components. So now, if you install this hard drive onto an old computer there is the possibility it would damage the hard drive. Yes, it would damage the hard drive. And the computer would not detect the hard drive. Also, it might freeze up at startup, when the Dell logo appears at startup."

http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/category.aspx?c=us&category_id=7296&cs=19&l=en&s=dhs&~ck=anav&p=1
http://search.dell.com/results.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=gen&cat=prod&k=hard+drive&rpp=12&p=1&subcat=2999%2f5683%2f5694%2f7296&rf=all&nk=f&sort=K&nf=38689%7e0%7e418114%2c11976%7e0%7e167321&navla=11976%7e0%7e167 321&ira=False&~srd=False&ipsys=False&advsrch=False&~ck=anav
http://reviews.zdnet.co.uk/hardware/notebooks/0,1000000335,10003105,00.htm
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,997075,00.asp
Not surprising- some older BIOS's didn't support more then.. I believe it was- 40-bit LBA, which coincides with around 37-39GB of disk space.

My older, K6-2, for example, freezes on boot if I place one of my newer HDs in it. However, if I set the "cylinder reduction" jumper, it recognizes and can use the drive, but only around 40GB of it.

However what the techs say is somewhat self-conflicting as well as misinformative as to the reason- sticking a larger drive into it will be unlikely to damage the hard drive or the laptop- worst case scenario is the laptop doesn't recognize the drive and freezes.

In either case, it's a BIOS limitation, and has nothing to do with Windows or the operating system, or drivers, or any of that, as they appear to (inconsistently) claim.

Now that being said, you can stick the drive in, and use it, (if it allows for the "cylinder reduction" jumper setting as my drives have), but you probably won't be able to use it without it. (it is, however, worth a shot, IMO, since 2003 was around the time that the BIOS limitation limiting it to ~40GB was "lifted" so to speak.)Well wouldn't updating BIOS take care of the BIOS issue or is it more complicated???I looked at BIOS updates for the Dell Inspiron 5100 here and saw nothing about accommodating larger hard drives.

You might post your question at http://en.community.dell.com/forums/, since that'a Dell-specific forum. However, I suspect you won't get any different info that what BC_Programmer posted here.

Have you thought about an external USB drive for extra storage?I'm wondering if the drive was formatted ahead of the install @ 40G and had the remainder partitioned as an extended partition if it would trick the workaround...

COURSE i've had a few Scotch's and the clarity isn't exactly all there... Quote from: patio on September 05, 2009, 08:25:38 AM

I'm wondering if the drive was formatted ahead of the install @ 40G and had the remainder partitioned as an extended partition if it would trick the workaround...

Course i've had a few Scotch's and the clarity isn't exactly all there...

I was downloading a large file which was gonna take some time so i left my PC and went out. When i CAME back, it was in the sleep mode so i TRIED to wake it up by pressing the space bar. it did woke up but after about 30 seconds. That was unusual right? So, when i saw that the download was completed, i shut down the system and went to sleep. The next morning i turned on the system but my monitor won't turn on. I could HEAR the start up sound but i can't see anything on the screen. I unplugged the cable and then plug it back in but all i could get was a green light which immediately disappeared. I tried using a diffrenet cable but its all thesame. Any idea what might cause this and how to fix it? Each time i plug in the cable, i only get a green light which disappear immediately. HELP Please, i'm broke and can't AFFORD a new monitor right now.
Thanks.
Can you try the monitor on another computer?

If it works on another computer then something else is at fault.

I recently replaced my old HDD (Seagate 80GB 7200 RPM IDE)with new ONE Seagate 500GB 7200 RPM SATA (ST3500418AS)
I use the speed fan S.M.A.R.T. to check my HDD status it shows fitness & PERFORMANCE of my HDD above 92-93%

but now for past 4 days its fitness keep reducing and now it's at 29%
though the hdd is working fine
and there is no noticeable difference in the performance
(this problem FIRST showed up after a power-out)
http://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AVviGJadSNBfZGhmcnBxYnhfMmhrZGRxYmhy&hl=en

but the seatool test results says my hdd is fine

the power supply have no sata power CONNECTOR
the hard drive is connected with a "molex to sata power" connector(it's safe to use this in long term???)

why this data is changing so rapidly???
is my hdd is failing???

please help!!

[attachment deleted by admin]I would trust SeaTool more than SpeedFan GIVEN that it's the correct tool.

No markings on the disk to INDICATE master slave just four pin's can not find any info on web
I want to use a master disk and change to slave so I can copy files over to new Laptop, I'm using a USB TO SATA and IDA Hard Disk Adaptor
The hard disk is the TOSHIBA 80GB SATA150 5400RPM 2.5" HDD MK8032GSX
SATA drives have no jumpers. Master/Slave is determined by the PORT it is connected to. I don't know what kind of ADAPTER you have, but on mine you just plug it in, apply power to the adapter and then CONNECT the USB.http://sdd.toshiba.com/techdocs/MK8032GSXTechnicalNotes-RevA.pdf

I was wondering if there are any noticable performance differences between the two types of motherboards? ITX can run some pretty decent PROCESSORS but does it size really affect its performance?The physical size does not affect performance. In fact, performance differences between motherboards (if all other hardware is the same) are not typical, perhaps a new memory controller may GIVE a better benchmark score but that's about it.
Instead, look at the CPU socket and chipset, which determine amongst other THINGS what processors you can use, also look at the type and number of expansion slots.
A Mini-ITX board supporting only single core Atom processors with 1 RAM slot and a PCI slot is not a basis for a high performance machine, however other ITX boards support other hardware.
The main advantage to ITX is its small size, leading to its use in small form factor machines such as HTPCs. ATX boards are more mainstream and due to the larger size generally have more expansion slots and therefore flexibility.
Is there anything specific you were wondering? The above is just general information which may not answer your specific question, if you have one.nothing in specific really
was just browsing though newegg and noticed a ITX that supported core 2 duo, core 2 EXTREME, and core 2 quad.
the board also had onboard nVidia 9300 GPU AND! PCIe x16 lol
i was dumbfounded that something so small could handle such components
my next build might just be a itx.
heres the link if anyone is curious http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813500022

ONE MORE THING!
do ITX mobos use standard ATX PSUs?Some of the higher end boards, especially the ION platform, are designed for higher performance small PCs, yes. That Zotac board is a good example.
Also, most ITX boards do use ATX PSUs as far as I am aware, certainly Intel's Fly Creek boards and that Zotac board use standard connectors.

well i can play cd's and some old dvd's, but i can not play most movie dvd's, what is the problem???Have you run any LENS-cleaning software in the drive lately? You know, the CDs you put into the drive that has brushes on it, that wipe the laser lens...

Have you tried updating the driver for the drive lately? Click Start, type Device Manager, when it appears in the menu, click on it.. When Dev. Manager opens, click on the "+" sign next to CD/DVD rom drives.. Right click on the problematic drive in the submenu, and click "update driver software"........If there is an updated driver available, let windows install it and try some DVDs again..





What player?my cd rom/dvd rom in my lap top. i tried updating the cd rom already. what i did was removed the cd rom, then installed it back in, then i went to device manager and uninstalled the cd drive and then reinstalled it. but STILL same problemI believe Broni was inquiring what video player are you running...o ok, its a tsst corp cd/dvdw ts-l632m ATA deviceand what media player are you playing the dvd's on? (windows media player or something else?)windows mediaDid it ever work properly? What (if you can remember) was the last thing you did immediately before it stopped playing other DVDs (if it ever did) ?Have you added any new software (particularly audio/video software) coincident to this failure? If you don't already have it download a free VLC media player and see if that makes any difference. truenorthVLC Player: http://www.videolan.org/vlc/nope didnt work, sounds like it wants to crank and spin, but fails to get momentum. after like a minute of HEARING it wanting to spin, the cd just ejects. again, cd's work fine and i can play some old dvds, but not many. I'd say, the drive is dying.Quote from: Broni on August 13, 2009, 09:52:01 PM

I'd say, the drive is dying.

Is it POSSIBLE to record live television from the internet, WITHOUT a TV reciever?

If so please may someone leave the link.

If not please may someone tell me the cheapest way to record live TV to my computer

Thanks in advanceed0079, YES it is definitely possible to record live TV from the internet. In many instances you will need to 1st download a specific software (usually defined by the specific TV source you wish to view/record from) that will allow the viewing of their transmission. That will always be free but is absolutely necessary. Next you will need some software associated with an optical recorder that allows you to record streaming video. Once again that is often proprietary to the burning software you use. However there are stand alone software programs (some free some not) that are also available to do the task. When you SAY record--that is an ambiguous term which can include to your HDD or to a REMOVEABLE medium (such as a recordable CD or DVD disc) so that would need to be defined 1st. A search on Google will produce a multitude of guidance and specific programs to meet your requirements. truenorth

Trying to USE a BLACK Magic Intensity Pro capture CARD but can't get a capture image. I get this Capture Initialization Error when selecting capture mode. What would cause this?reseat the cardThat didn't work. Now what?
Are the settings for the card correct?

What program are you using?

Are you using the driver from the disk?

Have you tried updating DRIVERS from thier website?

How do I fix this What exactly do you MEAN by "READ test"? Could you be a little more specific..

Post your specs as well....Quote from: marcymama on August 13, 2009, 12:54:08 AM

How do I fix this

Is there ANYWAY where one can format a PC and then install Windows in it without the USE of DISC at all?Do you not have an installation disk? If you own a valid key, you can probably get a disk for fairly cheap....

You could also, build your own XP installation disk, assuming that your Operating System Files are sound... http://www.howtohaven.com/system/createwindowssetupdisk.shtmlQuote from: tkh9917 on August 13, 2009, 01:43:32 AM

Is there anyway where one can format a PC and then install Windows in it without the use of disc at all?

I was wondering if I could use a different device other than my conventional MOUSE. I have an N64 controller than plugs into a USB adapter that I use for games and I thought it would be COOL to use it as my mouse, I have windows vista and an hp computer, its a new computer and it uses a USB for the mouse, so if anyone knows how or if i can do this please let me knowyou would have to write a driver for it

try this. It uses a Rumblepad 2 but it should work with any controller.

http://news.softpedia.com/news/Control-Your-PC-with-your-Gamepad-Joystick-39938.shtml


would writing my own driver be ridiculously hard or would i be able to do it?hard
but you can get the DDK from microsoft connect if know the C programming lanuageQuote from: avaricewillkillu on August 25, 2009, 08:00:32 PM

would writing my own driver be ridiculously hard or would i be able to do it?

at random times, the mouse will keep "vibrating", and then double clicking at random times when my finger is on the touchpad.

i've tried recalibrating the touchpad and RESTARTING... it still happens.

wat should i do?Your mouse vibrates? QUOTE from: ADG on SEPTEMBER 06, 2009, 12:17:03 PM

Your mouse vibrates?

I read the previous post by Malibu and have tried all the suggestions therein ...

Okay, here’s the situation. In December of 2008 I bought a custom-built pc from a very reputable dealer in Milwaukee. The pc is configured as follows:
•CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad – Q8200 – 2.33 GHz
•OS: Microsoft Windows XP – Home Edition – SP3
•RAM: 4 GB – 2.33 GHz
•2 HDs: (1) Seagate BARRACUDA 7200 ST3160815AS – 160 MB (as the system drive); (1) Seagate Barracuda 7200 ST3500320AS – 500 MB (as the data drive)
•3 Optical Drives: (2) Lite-On DH-20A4P; (1) Lite-On LH-20A1L

I use the optical drives for the following:
•Playing DVD movies (from Netflix) using CyberLink PowerDVD;
•Playing, ripping, burning audio CDs using Windows Media Player 11;
•Playing several games that require the CD/DVD to be inserted during play;
•Burning data CDs/DVDs (I am a database developer and typically send projects to my clients on optical media) using CyberLink Power2Go (I have used Nero in the past, but do not like it);
•Burning edited video DVDs using Adobe Premiere Elements 7;
[All of the software are current versions with all updates installed.]

The blank media I have in stock is: CD-R, DVD+R, DVD+R DL, DVD+R LightScribe.

I have McAfee Security Center installed and do a full scan weekly.

Everything worked perfectly with the computer and I had been very pleased with the Lite-On drives until sometime in early July 2009. I found a DVD/CD Lens Cleaner (SKU #21180473 / MFG #OM96804) that I had purchased from OfficeMax about two years ago and had used on my previous computer. I had had my new computer for about six months – and admitting that my apartment is VERY dusty – I thought it might be good to use the cleaner on the optical drives. The cleaner went through its routine without any problems or errors.

Since using the cleaner, however, none of my optical drives worked; they would not read or recognize any media. If any media (DVD movie, audio CD, software installation DISKS with executables, any type of data disk, blank media of any format) were inserted into the drive, the drive would spin, the activity LED would blink, the drive would whirr, but nothing. I get no error messages or anything. The drive simply does not see the media. Windows Explorer would not show any media in the drive. The Device Manager recognizes the drives and indicates that they are “working properly”. Yet none of the drives would work.

I first contacted OfficeMax, but they do not have any tech staff to advise on such problems, although they were willing to refund my money for the purchase of the cleaner (if I could find my receipt). They referred me to the cleaner manufacturer, Falcon Security Products, but apparently their entire tech staff is on vacation until the end of August. I then called Lite-On tech support, who were very helpful. Unfortunately, they were unable to fix the problem. I have also scoured the Microsoft Knowledge Base and several fix-it type BBSs, but have not found a solution to my problem.

The following are the steps I’ve taken so far to try to fix my optical drives, none of which have completely resolved the problem:
•I completely re-cabled the drives;
•I removed the drives and allowed Windows to reinstall them;
•I downloaded and installed the current firmware from the Lite-On Web site;
•In Device Manager under “IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers” one of my “Primary IDE Channel” devices was listed as using PIO transfer mode. One of the Lite-On techs sent me a utility which corrected that problem and now all devices are shown as using DMA mode;
•On searching the Microsoft Knowledge Base, I found Article ID #314060 relating to an UpperFilters/LowerFilters issue with the Registry. I had the problem and ran the “fix”. Since then, all three drives will now play audio CDs, but will still not recognize any other media;
•I’ve run PC Pitstop Exterminate 2, PC Pitstop Optimize 2, and PC Tools Registry Mechanic. Nero InfoTool recognizes all three drives and lists the specs of each. Also, the LightScribe CONTROL Panel lists the LH-20A1L drive as “Available”.

I am 93% certain that the cleaner disk did something to damage the drives or mess with my pc. Since all three drives can now play audio CDs, however, I don’t think they are permanently damaged. I am not in a position financially to simply scrap the drives and buy new ones (as suggested on another BBS) – even $50 per drive would be prohibitive at this point. Is there anything that can be done to fix my drives?
If you want to try and clean the drives yourself, remove the drives, remove the tray's front bezel by using an unbent paper clip to eject the drive with the pin-hole. remove the 4 screws from the bottom, then remove the larger bezel by pushing the clips in to take it off, and the cover should the come off. Try using a small amount, i mean VERY small amount of nail polish remover or methylated spirits and a q-tip to wipe the lens gently, and then use the opposite end to clean it off gently, then re-apply a small amount and leave for a minute or two to evaporate.

Reassemble then return the drives to the machine.off topic!
are you telling me you only have 660mb of harddisk?
that would fill in weeks
i hope u ment GB not MB

After heavy video use or having several web pages open, my PC will start to give out a very HIGH pitched ringing. I can only COMPARE it to something like a dog whistle. I only happens with heavy use or lots of video. After I shut down, I can work in peace until I start to use lots of video, or heavy processing. HOW CAN I FIX IT CHEAPLY?Is the sound coming from the speakers or the computer case?From the inside the case. I have cleaned, dusted and checked all the fans.Have you checked to see if any wires are in close contact with the fan blades?Yes. I suspect it might be the processor or the power supply. Sound seems to start only with heavy use.Open the case and make sure that no wires or cables are in contact or close contact with fan blades.Done that one too.Leave the chasis open, get it to make that noise and just see what piece of hardware makes that noise.Hard to tell where its coming from. CPU is under a large heat sync and a fan.It's not the CPU. the CPU is not mechanical, it'll be a mechanical COMPONENT, like a fan with failed bearings or something.i have heard CPU's make buzzing sounds
Whistling capacitors in the power supply or on the motherboard.....kids can hear it well and DOGS won't come in the room.....you'll have to swap in a known good supply to see if the PSU is bad......if not then it might be one on the motherboard....are any of the capacitors bulging or split...... the caps have a + etched on top.

As I type my cursor will randomly jump to previous words in the sentence, a previous line, or anywhere else but where I want it. I am constantly having to delete and move my cursor back to where I should be typing. I have already had to do it four times in typing this message. I have a LAPTOP, so I can't just check the connection. I have looked at my keyboard settings but do not find anything out of the ordinary. Any ideas???Laptop?Laptop?


Yes - it is a laptop.Most likely, you're touching laptop's touchpad, while typing.Thank you for the comment; I am pretty sure that is not the case. This problem has been going on for several weeks now, and I too thought that perhaps I was somehow hitting the touchpad. I've even covered the touchpad with paper to make sure I wasn't hitting it. When I intentionally touch the touchpad the arrow cursor shows up and it doesn't make my cursor actually jump lines. As of now, in the middle of typing the cursor will literally jump to a different word or line and contining typing. I think I'm just going to have to take it to have it looked at. Trying to type papers is about to drive me insane - literally! Does it happen in ANY program, INCLUDING posting here?i'm having the exact same problem in my laptop. definetly not touching the pad. i hope this forum gets good!That jumping can OCCUR when some "heavy duty" CPU sucking applications are running in the back ground. Check for what applications are running via Task Manager. Running Virus Checkers, On-Line Radio, MsMpEng will do it. If find the the same thing, where the mouse pointer will not even move, and than travels by its own across the screen.
???Same problem here with the cursor. Has anyone found anything useful at all. All I keep running into is the question over and over. And I know that I am not hitting the touch pad. PLEASE HELP!!! keep the mouse cursor away from wher your typeing
its probubly the touch pad falsly registering a click
and moving the cursorWow...

We now have 3 people posting with the same issues and no info on their machines...
Each of you start your own Topic so it can recieve the proper attention...Quote from: jarwaters on February 02, 2009, 06:57:15 PM

I have looked at my keyboard settings but do not find anything out of the ordinary.

Possum.Quote from: squall_01 on August 24, 2009, 08:00:48 AM

You need at least a molex splitter an a molex connector since you need to POWER the one device that you have connected an make the other one run down to the drive.

we just tend to fool around once the thread is solved
you can turn off the emails if you want

I recently added a second HDD to my daughters desktop. It came out of another desktop that died. It works fine, but instead of having a 40GB, it has about 10GB because of all the crap on it from the other desktop.

Here's my question: If I reformat the HDD to clean off the old files and OS, will it still WORK? EVERYTHING on it has already been saved elsewhere, so I don't need any of it. If it will work to take it back to it's original state from the MANUFACTURER, what else needs to be done to use it for storage and backup only?

Thanks for the help.Yes, of course. Just format it.Yes.
When you format it will show up as an empty HDD...
Decide on a directory structure for it and folders and sub-folders can be added in Windows EXPLORER...

I recently decided to re-image my computer with Ubuntu 9.04; then realized that 99% of the REQUIRED school software was a pain to install under Linux. Anyway, I re-imaged again with a legitimate copy (provided by my high school) of Windows XP sp2. After INSTALLING the appropriate drivers, I noticed that I had no sound. I REBOOTED and was greeted by the hopeful "Found New Hardware Wizard" that clearly wanted me to install software for "Audio Device on High Definition Audio Bus." I clicked through the wizard (screenshots included), and found the operation to be unsuccessful. I have tried looking for the drivers but for the life of me I cannot find anything remotely relevant.

I am using a Lenovo ThinkPad T60P 8741-AD5, and I installed Windows XP sp2 on an NTFS Partition. The specs, directly from the Lenovo website, are as follows:

Based on 8741-C5U: T7200(2GHz), 2GB RAM, 160GB 7200rpm HD, 15.4in 1680x1050 LCD, 256MB ATI FireGL V5250, CDRW/DVDRW, 802.11abg wireless, Bluetooth, Modem, 1Gb Ethernet, UltraNav, Secure chip, Fingerprint reader, 9c Li-Ion, WinXP Pro

Any help at all would be great. My friend and I did the exact same thing with our computers (same model, even) and both have the exact same problem. Thanks in advance for any pointers towards restoring my sound!

[attachment deleted by admin]have you tried lenovo's site. i did a search for your comp and there seems to be an audio driver. have u tried that?I had looked a hundred times before, but I guess I did not look hard enough. After installing the driver and restarting my computer, my sound works once again.

Issue resolved: User was being an unobservant idiot. XD

Thank you for the help ^_^

So I want to add some case fans and I don't want it to connect directly to PSU but to the mobo so I can control fan speed with software than having to buy a fan controller. However, when I looked on my mobo, I couldn't FIND fan pins (3 pin or 4 pin) at first until I realised that there were no pins at all. SURE there are 3 holes for a 3 pin fan but there are no 'pins' if you get what I mean. Both are soldered shut. Why??? I looked for pictures online in case my mobo had been tampered but they all showed the same thing. There is only a CPU_FAN which does have 4 pins for my cpu fan lol but that is it.

Thanksthats because the model of mobo MUST not support a fan there
you maybe able to get a fan controler card but i dont know
because i have never installed a fanbut it says on the asus website that it does support 1 POWER fan and 1 chassis fanare you sure you are looking in the CORRECT place at the correct model?
somone else with come along with more experence in fans100% sure so i am quite miffed...

Can a person have SATA hard drives and IDE hard drives operating at the same time on the same motherboard?Yes.
Determining which ones are set to boot is a different process though...Quote from: nbstan on September 06, 2009, 01:14:39 PM

Can a person have SATA hard drives and IDE hard drives operating at the same time on the same motherboard?

By "working fine" do you mean, you just got to the BIOS with the WIRED-USB keyboard?
If, yes, maybe there's a bad connection, somewhere.
You previously formatted the HDD, so there is no OS to boot to.no i mean before this all happened. I got everything into the new case and it worked then the keyboard and mouse stopped working. so i looked up some answers ONLINE tried them and the last resort was a format. So i did that and reset the BIOS and im still in the same boat.You didn't mention that before. So you already have a new case and PSU? Maybe you should re-check your buildup first? Why did you move everything to a new case?

Event sequence (you CORRECT it as necessary)
1. WIRELESS USB keyboard & mouse stopped working.
2. Moved everything to new case and new PSU.
3. Wired USB keyboard & mouse stopped working.
4. Format HDD.
5. Reset BIOS
6. Reset BIOS, again.Has an OS been re-installed yet ? ?sounds like a loose connection
Quote from: Computer_Commando on September 06, 2009, 02:51:37 PM

You didn't mention that before. So you already have a new case and PSU? Maybe you should re-check your buildup first? Why did you move everything to a new case?

Event sequence (you correct it as necessary)
1. Wireless USB keyboard & mouse stopped working.
2. Moved everything to new case and new PSU.
3. Wired USB keyboard & mouse stopped working.
4. Format HDD.
5. Reset BIOS
6. Reset BIOS, again.

Hello all

I have a Dell XPS 410 with windows vista home premium.
Intel Core 2 CPU 4300 @1.80 GHz 1.79 GHz
2gbs of RAM
32 bit
Nvidia GeForce 8600 GTS

Now my problem is that my computer turns on with its fans at full power, but no boot screen or anything. A couple days ago my dad left the computer on sleep and when i wanted to use it i got on and moved the mouse, and when i did that the fans started up as they usually do, but this time there was nothing on the monitor so i just rebooted. And of course my computer was messed up. No boot screen with fans on HIGH power.

First thing that came to my mind was to just let the computer cool down, and in the morning when i tried powering the computer the same problem. So i turned on my psp and went on the internet for a SOLUTION, found out that the BIOS might be flawed or something and required a reset.
Yesterday I reset the bios and sure enough the computer ran fine. Then at night i turned it off, and today i turned it back on and the same problem. So i took out my computers battery, and just waited and now the computer is running fine. But i am sure that if i turn off my computer and back on, the computer will still turn on with no boot screen with fans on high power.

I am sure that this is in no way a software problem.
Also, when i turn my computer on, the nvidia fan first turns on then, the main fan turns on.

Thanks in advance. try to take out the video card and then boot up! also what size power supply do you have???I dont know the size of my power supply, but i would guess its a medium.

Also, I heard that the motherboard was to blame, and i would much rather know the problem for sure before i get down and actually lossen some screw from my system.
well is your video card built into the motherboard or is it a card if it is your talking about just taking your case off and unscrewing the video card and removing it not very hard to test!
these are sure common
i would say a am problem
sometimes a tempoary
fix is to run the computer without batteryDUDE

Today i took the battery out and put it back in and it still was like that. Then i took the battery out

Coincidence eh?Quote from: zonatedace on August 28, 2009, 03:07:01 PM

well is your video card built into the motherboard or is it a card if it is your talking about just taking your case off and unscrewing the video card and removing it not very hard to test!

Well its not attached to the motherboard

i would probably try it with the video card taken out just to rule out a power supply issue!

these are sure common
i would say a am problem
sometimes a tempoary
fix is to run the computer without battery

try it
whats the picutre for?

lol its a bump

Gee, I really hope it's the cable...

I have 7 CRT monitors here and none of them have removable data cables.

exatly if there are such a thing that would be nice

There are.

I have a gig ram chip in a pc2700 slot. I can inter change the two slots but when i put another ram chip in it only reads the 256 chip. Anything i can do to fix this. May be something in the BIOS? my spec are marked under my profile. Let me know if you need more info.What motherboard is this? Did you read the manual?

how can i tell what mother board it is? its an acer travelmate 4000 alc. I searched on the internet to no avail.I put 2 of the same 1 gig ram chips by the same manufacturer in both slots but it only reads 1 chip at a time. I took one chip out and swapped it between the two so i know both slots work, they just don't work both ram chips at the same time.Are you sure that SUPPORTS 1G RAM chips ? ?
A few i looked up only support 512 chips...yeah it reads a 1 gb ram chip if its in by itself. just not two. i even tried a combo of 1 gb ram chip and a 256. didn't work. only read 256. then I put a 512 plus the 1 gb ram chip. it only read the 512, not the 1 gb. you think it might max out at 1 gb?Go to crucial.com and click on [check my system] Quote from: patio on August 14, 2009, 11:10:18 AM

Are you sure that supports 1G RAM chips ? ?
A few i looked up only support 512 chips...

According to this it supports 2gb.

i even tried a combo of 1 gb ram chip and a 256. didn't work. only read 256. then I put a 512 plus the 1 gb ram chip. it only read the 512, not the 1 gb.

Ok, so i took out the both chips and put the 1 gig chip in the furthest slot back and the computer won't boot.

and the computer won't boot.

Also Lectro just so you know not all RAM will properly "step down" as you suggested...there are limits.

Here RECENTLY, I can not play a DVD with Media Player. The MOVIE will lock up the computer. Can not use Cltr+Alt+Delete. The only way to GET out of it is to restart the computer. I was using Media 11 un-install it and download Media 9. The same thing happens.
I can play music using Media Player but not a DVD.
Any help would be appreciated.
O.S. XP PROI find media player really SLOW for some reason.

I use vlc player to watch movies, i think its a lot faster and less buggy.

here's a link:

http://www.videolan.org/vlc/Thanks. I do have Power DVD that I can use.
I am just trying to fix or try to fix what MAY have caused the problem.
Not smart on computers but I am learning somethings.
I thought if I deleted Media Player 11. Even went to search for all hidden files to make sure it was all deleted. I then installed Media Player 9 and just my luck it still does not work.
Windows Media Player is simply a crappy program.
Go with vizvim's advice, and use VLC Player.Quote from: Broni on August 25, 2009, 06:37:22 PM

Windows Media Player is simply a crappy program.
Go with vizvim's advice, and use VLC Player.

What kind of wireless DEVICES are in this MACHINE and/or AROUND the work AREA ? ?I hadn't EVEN considered that.

I've recently bought a new laptop and decided i'd replace the HDD in the old one before i get rid of it.

It's a Packard Bell R1935 and the old HDD is a SEAGATE 50GB Ultra ATA.

My question is can i replace it with any drive?? A PATA? A SATA? I've READ online about the DIFFERENCES, but are they all compatible with my laptop?

I'd appreciate any guidance you can offer, thanks.Laptops RARELY come with both connectors so just replace it with the same style...
Pata=Pata
Sata=SataThanks!

Hey,

I am 'trying' to built myself a computer for the first time, but having a bit of a problem with connections. I have connected my PSU to my mb and my HDD, but there doesn't LOOK as though there is another mb slot for my optical drives like on the old computer. Could I use the slot labeled floppy on my mb or would that not work? Also if I can use the floppy slot the connection doesn't reach. Any suggestions?

p.s. the mb is a ASUS P5QL/EPU iP43 Socket 775 8 Channel Audio ATX Motherboard

http://www.ebuyer.com/product/170220#Hmm, you only have 1 x IDE connector on that Mb and 6 sata connectors.....Sorry, you can't use the floppy connector....you'll have to get one of these..or UPGRADE your optical drives to sata.


http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4323593&CatId=508

DO shop around...Do some research for a PCI / IDE addon card if you don't care to replace all your IDE devices just yet...

I have two external hard drives, neither of which can be used. I have Windows XP Professional and it used to be a part of a network at an office, but now is at home. Could this be part of the problem? When I hook up the first DRIVE (A) it starts trying to back up things that aren't there and I cannot end this PROCESS without unplugging it. When I hook up the second one (B) the computer doesn't seem to recognize that it's even there. Both hard drives are the same type: Maxtor Personal 3100, 80 GB. Please help!To start with, USB hard drives are prone to give problems when trying to backup large files on a network. The problems can be reduced, to some degree. Yet the obvious solution is to use another kind of interface for network backup.
One problem is documented in the MS KB. And besides that, the USB interface can fail for hardware reasons.
First thing I would do is pull the drive out of tghe USB thing. I did that with my 80GB Maxtor and found the drive worked perfectly but the USB interface had BIT the dust from my mistreatment. I am very tough on poorly made stuff, I break anything that is not idiot-proof.

QUOTE from: singsparrow on September 07, 2009, 11:13:03 AM

I have Windows XP Professional and it used to be a part of a network at an office, but now is at home. Could this be part of the problem?...

I assume the XP-Pro is on the desktop or laptop which is now home?
You probably need to unmap the network drives, that are mapped at every logon.
This is a typical IT department setup which you no longer need at home.

IT department setups are not used by me when I use XP Pro at home.

i have a really boaring JOB where i am able to play computer games for most the day. I BOUGHT a winbook j4730 for 25 bucks so i can not be so bored. My question is.... can I install a driver to get the mobility 7500 to play dx9 games??wow. I wish I had your job...


aside from INSTALLING DirectX9c there isn't anything you can do to add hardware support for a more recent DX version.If you hire me for 45 an hour part time i can tell you how to do it...
I prefer 11 to about 2:30 or so if that's OK....crap, I was looking here and still dont quite KNOW if it would help me or not. Im trying to get Beyond Good and Evil to run.

http://www.driverheaven.net/modtool.phppatio was joking

hello,
i was just wondering. on a 32 bit OPERATING system. would the switch from 3gb of ram to 4gb even be noticable. or would that be a MONEY wasting option.
thanks,
-QuickFixYou will see a minimal DIFFERENCE...thank you, your help is appreciated.
No problem and Welcome Aboard !

I'd still invest in the RAM if you have any plans to move to a 64BIT OS in the near future as it is DIRT cheap now...

If not just look forward to a new build...

CPU TypeMobile DualCore INTEL PENTIUM, 2000 MHz (12 X 167)
(12 x 167)?
i know i dont have 12coresThe 12 is the MULTIPLIER, the 167 is the Mhz, if you multiply the 12 by 167 you get 2004 which equals 2Ghz.thanks

Hi EVERYONE,
How are you all doing? I'm HOPING maybe someone will be able to help me figure out what to do about a couple of problems happening to my printer ever since the latest repairman worked on my computer which was right before this past Christmas.

I have a Lexmark printer the model of it is Z605.
A few things keep happening-
1. After finishing printing that box thing printer icon thing stays open too and says 99% and never CLOSES. So, then everytime you restart the computer, it prints the document again. So, then that just wastes paper and INK doing it again.
2. It also keeps printing in colored ink and taking so long to print it too

I GUESS there must be some settings somewhere, but I have no idea where. Me and my mom were looking around a bit and couldn't seem to find anything. I guess we were looking in the wrong areas.

Thanks,
Amy
Have you tried uninstalling the printer and software and then reinstalling it?.AmyR7, alan2273 has given advice that in most cases should solve the problem. So i would definitely try that 1st. However i am about to give you the benefit of my opinion which is really not the type of advice i like to normally suggest. Do NOT spend any more money on repairing that printer. Printers are so inexpensive these days that it rarely is cost effective to repair them (unless it is a warranty repair on the companies dime). I have yet to hear anything commendable about the Lexmark brand of printers. Others may have alternative personal choices but my preferences in inkjet are Epson,Canon,or Brother. So if you end up not solving your problem via the offered suggestion then i do NOT recommend Lexmark as a replacement. Please let us know how things work out.truenorth

What is the best size of the computer screen?
Now I WANT to upgrade my size of computer screen.Do you think that 22 inch looks too big?
thx~Wow - that's REALLY a personal choice. There is no "best" size. Whatever you like is what's best.22" is a decent size, reasonably priced as well. If you use it for gaming then the bigger the better i say! But if you just use it generally it's really up to you.

It really depends on your budget and how much you're willing to splash out.Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't the graphic capabilities of the computer somewhat limit the size of the monitor, especial when gaming in higher resolutions? NoQuote from: hejlik on August 25, 2009, 09:44:54 AM

Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't the graphic capabilities of the computer somewhat limit the size of the monitor, especial when gaming in higher resolutions?