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Hey again

i am Currentyl installing WINDOWS7 RC on a FRIEND computer, do I need to change any HING in BIOS in order to make it work with Windows7? Or Do I need to remove the partition with the CD that the previous OS was installed with, or can I just remove it with the Windows7 RC disc?


thanksNo, No, yes.Thanks Quick and easy...that's how we like 'em.... You're welcome

Hello agents of hope!
I just installed 2 identical webcams, one on my own computer, one on my parents' (for use W/ Skype). You know what's coming; mine is WORKING fine, but not theirs.
It seems their computer just doesn't recognize when the webcam is connected to the USB port. I followed all the instructions to set it up, and the driver and program are installed just fine. It's only that when I plug in the USB cable, nothing HAPPENS. No "USB device found" message comes up, and the webcam icon on the start bar still says it's disconnected. I've REBOOTED the computer several times and even tried reinstalling the program, but no luck. Their computer is a Dell desktop, a few years old and slow as molasses, but it usually doesn't have problems recognizing our digital cameras or other USB devices.
What might be causing this and how can I fix it? THANKS!even if it did work the framerate would be bad:(
but anyway check device manager for yellow or red marks next to the icon
somone else can help with device manager better then i can
by the way i dont like skype they send bios data to them

Also the case PANEL opening can be covered...they are snap in plastic plates.
Stop by a PC repair shop they'll probably give you a handful of them for nothing...Quote from: patio on AUGUST 24, 2009, 11:36:29 AM

Also the case panel opening can be covered...they are snap in plastic plates.
Stop by a PC repair shop they'll probably give you a handful of them for nothing...

No problem.

I know too much and erased many PROGRAMS to free up space. Now I get a message that there is a problem that there is no spool, my printers don't show up in the control PANEL area any more...I need my printer..I tried to reload my HP C5580 but it gives me an error about the spool, what can I do? thanks....."screwup"I would recommend installing the printer drivers again.I tried to load the printer software and it wouldnt TAKE it. Not sure what a printer driver is. Do I have the printer driver?It's the software that tells your computer what printer you have and how to communicate with it.

It would be on the disk(s) that came with your printer(s).And re-booting replaces/refreshes the spool...I tried to reload the disc that came with the HP 5580 but it stopped and said the issue was the print spooler. I clicked on "fix" and it said it could not continue...problen in PCDid you restart the computer?

If you did, can you check the services and make sure that nothing disabled the print spooler?I must have disabled the print spooler when I went crazy and got rid of programs to gain space. Where do I find "services" to find out what I may have done. thanksStart/Run type in services .msc at the command prompt...ok I found services and found many things disabled. Including print spooler. I changed many of those things to automatic, restarted the computer, tried to reload the printer/scanner software and get it halfway done and it says it is unable to load.....error 1068 I will have to stop for tonight, before I have a stroke.....I am 72 and very exciteable.......will try again tomorrow ..maybe. thanks very much... BBNo reason to get that frustrated...we'll walk you thru this...Quote from: patio on August 15, 2009, 08:38:08 PM

No reason to get that frustrated...we'll walk you thru this...

When using the scroll wheel button to close tabs in firefox, it sometimes clicks twice and closes two, it also does this when I CLICK a link with it sometimes and opens the link twice, so I guess it could happen with anything.. I originally thought it was just a problem with my other WIRED mouse as I never had this issue with the wireless mice I used (Which both had their receivers break.. ) but TODAY I bought a new wired mouse (Being a bit fed up with the wireless ones..) that has the same issue the other wired one has, maybe I'm just unlucky.

Is there something that can cause the middle scroll button to click twice sometimes? I'm using Windows XP Home Service Pack 3Turn down the sensitivity in Control Panel/ Mouse...I've looked there, :/ but never seen anything for sensitivity of clicking. :\ (Well unless you count the double click speed one).

I know I probably sound stupid.. but I'm really not... there's no setting in there for the clicking of the scroll wheel. >.>; There's one for how much it scrolls, but not for clicking. o.O
Also surely if it was a setting like that it would be happening every time.Not sure what to suggest...my mouse needs quite a bit of pressure to get the scrollwheel to clik.
Sorry.
Maybe others here may have some ideas.I think it's simply a matter of the OP either holding down the button too long or applying too much or too little pressure, but I don't believe there are any mechanical or system issues in play here.Only click it for like a second. Never happened on the wireless ones... also never used to happen either.
Only I can't remember when it started. :/ But it was before I switched mice to the wireless ones...

Also, with pressure, I can't see how exactly that would affect it much, I mean.. a clicks a click, I can hear it click... it's not like it's a pressure sensitive button. (Is it? O.o )
Know what would be somewhat helpful? Some kind of thing that can show which is being clicked and for how long... sort of like the windows gamepad configuration thing.Just thought of something...
List your FireFox extensions...Adblock plus
British English Dictionary..
Download status bar
downloadhelper
foxclocks
Google Gears
Grease Monkey
Iconix
IDM Flashplugin
IE Tab
LongURL Mobile expander
Microsoft .net framework assistant
Mininova toolbar
Movie media player (Disabled)

I should probably see if it happens in other programs and browsers come to think of it.

Edit: It does... >.>;; This is so frustrating. I know it's only being clicked once but it's registering two sometimes. Why do I get all the weird problems.. It's probably hardware, it happens in windows 7 to. -.-;

Should maybe bring up that with the wireless ones, they'd sometimes scroll by them selves. When I'm not even touching the mouse.. I know you just replaced it but i would try another new mouse...just to avoid the aggravation.I guess that's the only option.. Although I DUNNO if they'll take returns now that I opened it.. maybe if I explain my story. o_omy old mouse had a similar issue- had to stop using it.

it would, seemingly at random, double-click.my current mouse sometimes does it
it seems to happen to usb micethat's akin to saying, "I find that the TIRES of vehicles using pneumatic tires sometimes go flat."

Hi, Just recently when I burn a CD/DVD a buzzing noise starts up in the computer. I abort the process incase its doing some harm. Help! try burning at a lower SPEED if it still does it you have a problemQuote from: MAGGIC50 on AUGUST 23, 2009, 05:20:38 PM

Hi, Just recently when I burn a CD/DVD a buzzing noise starts up in the computer. I abort the process incase its doing some harm. Help!

huh?
whats an optical drive silencer?

I've had a samsung 953bw for less then a year and one day when I come HOME and turn it on the LED displaying that the monitor is on kept flashing instead of remaining on.
I turned it off and on and it worked again but after a few days it remained off and the light keeps flashing.
The display dosent brighten up when I turn it on, I haven't installed anything that may have affected the monitor and its not the cables or my video card since I am using the same right now on an acer.

I'm willing to take it apart and try some fixes that way or if anyone knows a link to a guide or willing to explain a POSSIBLE fix it will be much appreciatedThe easiest way to test the functionality of a display is to try it on another system. And if it works, try a different display on your system.I've tried connecting it to 2 other computers using different cables, and the same cables, the results are always the same as my original POSTIT sounds to me like you need a new monitor.I just want to know if anyone knows how to fix monitors, its not like I am short on them I just want to see if I can fix it, something to do in my spare time, it already dosent work so what do I got to loseMonitors hold a very high electrical charge...even long after being powered down.
I wouldn't advise WORKING on it.
sounds like the caps are bad
but as patio says they hold high voltage even after being unpluged
open it up at your own risk

Ok so this might not be so much of a phenomenon though it does look more eye appealing. My problem with my computer started once I built it, it worked fine until one day it started crashing and it became unstable until it stopped booting up altogether. Naturally I sent it to the local repair shop once I couldn't figure out what the problem was. When I bought it to him I told him my problem he put the computer into his setup and booted it up and it worked totally fine. Now not only did he gave me a confused, you're an idiot look, I was confused and felt like an idiot. After my shock had passed away I thanked him for his time and proceeded to take the huge TOWER back home. Went to my setup and plugged it all in, pressed boot, nothing happened.

I sent the computer back and forth from his store at least twice or three times, each time it working over there and not it working over here. The problem was obviously the difference in environment all I had to do was pinpoint what was different about my house and his store. So I exchanged chords with him and attempted to copy his setup entirely even the peripherals and monitor. To no success. Then reading somewhere that when people build new computers the LED lights can cause some mishaps in computer booting and crashing, so I popped open the CASE, gave the LED lights a 180 degree turn and hoped for the best.

Then it happened it was working, I heard all the beautiful bells and whistles a computer makes. Overjoyed, I enjoyed it's speed and power until recently I hit the same problem again. Only this time flipping the god LED lights just did not work. Anything I tried hasn't worked, I sent it to a different repair shop this time and I'm experiencing the same situation as before, its working at that store not at my house. I plan to do some extensive reassembling as a last ditch strategy but not before consulting the ever wise internet.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: Computer specs-
Processor- Intel core i7 920
GPU- ATI Radeon 4870
PSU- SILENCER 750 Watts
HDD- 1 TB Samsung
Memory- DDR3 3GB Patriot

Anything else you guys require let me know.Quote from: FreedomX10A on August 17, 2009, 12:11:01 AM

The problem was obviously the difference in environment all I had to do was pinpoint what was different about my house and his store. So I exchanged chords with him and attempted to copy his setup entirely even the peripherals and monitor. To no success.

Then reading somewhere that when people build new computers the LED lights can cause some mishaps in computer booting and crashing, so I popped open the case, gave the LED lights a 180 degree turn and hoped for the best.

I plan to do some extensive reassembling

EDIT: Computer specs-
Processor- Intel core i7 920
GPU- ATI Radeon 4870
PSU- Silencer 750 Watts
HDD- 1 TB Samsung
Memory- DDR3 3GB Patriot

Which LED lights did you turn? Are these soldered to a circuit board or do they have 2 wires feeding them?

My problem with my computer started once I built it, it worked fine until one day it started crashing and it became unstable until it stopped booting up altogether

pressed boot, nothing happened.

it just wont turn on.

I'm a little confused:

So it was having problems but it was partially functional and now, when you press the power button, absolutely nothing happens. No LED lights com on, the fans don't run, no sound from the hard drive, monitor is blank?

OR

You get an LED light or some kind of sound from it somewhere?

This diagnostic method doesn't really make a whole lot of sense, when you think about it.

the PC works at the shop. it doesn't work at the home.

I wasn't sure if this should go to hardware or software. Well here is the run down. I was using a dell software to turn my PATRIOT memory stick into a bootable DRIVE. That however failed so I went to erase those files of the patriot stick and my stick is not labeled as a FRACTION of the original size. ORIGINALLY listed it was 7.45gb now it is 1.96gb...I have tried to right click on it and do the format option but that does absolutely nothing for me. What method did you use to make it bootable .....? ?
There are a few...
What file system ?This "Diagnostic Distribution Package" It seems to have a drop down box with my USB stick listed as (I:)[FAT32:PATRIOT]3725MB - Patriot Memory PMAP

I hope that helps some.

Well I have gone to Administrative Tools>Computer Management>Disk Management and I see my patriot thumb drive listed with 1.97GB FAT as "Healthy (active)" and 5.49GB as "Unallocated" And that would be the 5.49GB that went missing after I used that Dell utility!There is a hp formatter that may work but I dont have a link. Patio Yeah looks as though removing this PARTITION in Disk Management is a no go. When I right click on the Patriot it doesn't allow me to click "Delete Partition"...terrific windows Your going to find that it has to be force. You could open a command prompt an if you know the drive letter say format letter an say yes HP Formatting Tool:
http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/file.php?f=197Thanks a lot for the link to the Hp program it worked like a charm! Thanks to all who commented here for me too Glad you got it fixed. Thanks carbon I was going too give him the link then Storms an such prevent me from being online. Glad its fixed.

I will loose many of my steps in my troubleshooting by reformatting, so I want to be 100% that the problem is the OS, then I will go over to Windows7. My three legal Keys are for other computerbuilds in the future, and it's VISTA, which I won't use on a gaming rigWell, we are done here then it seems.

We will not continue to provide troubleshooting with a pirated OS.Of course he's going to say he's got legal keys - we already told him he's not getting help otherwise. Quote from: ADG on August 23, 2009, 03:31:50 PM

Of course he's going to say he's got legal keys - we already told him he's not getting help otherwise.

I've never understood the thought process behind using pirated software. You never know what's been done to it. Plus it's impossible to get support for.

And then brag about it! You should see some posts by people (mainly young people) who use pirated stuff - they're defiant ("well, it's too expensive, I can't afford it, and I needed it" or "everyone does it & it's available"). At my forum we shut these threads right down. I recognize we're a little more strict than most other sites, but I won't put up with it.

Is there any way I can prove that I actually got the keys for you? I have amny computers, but just one which is currently using Pirated software, and that's being solved right now. I am testing Windows7 instead of usin pirate software, and how do you know when I have upgraded to Windows7 or not?

Anyway, others can do whatever they want in this thread, but I'm done with it. Good luck with your system.

I have a problem with my wife's computer that is bugging me no end, as I have tried all fixes I know and there has been no change.

The computer apparently froze today while I was away, and so my wife did the fix-all remedy of a hard reset. Now the display has gone strange, with ripples travelling vertically on the display. It looks like a sine wave effect with the display wobbling about 5mm from side to side. The distortion isn't as pronounced along the right edge of the display, which is useful, as I can move windows to the right to attempt reading text.

I have tried:
Resetting the monitor. No effect.
Testing a different monitor on the computer. The effect is the same, so it's not the monitor or display cable.
Resetting the computer (restart). I noticed that the problem is present straight from booting up.
Cleaning the inside of the computer of dust. There was a lot of dust in there, but it didn't fix the problem.
Updating the drivers for the graphics chipset. It's an embedded ATI Radeon Xpress 200, the same one it was built with. No change.

I'm wondering if it might be a BIOS issue, but I'm reluctant to mess with that, as reading wobbling DOS text is a nightmare.

Can anyone suggest anything I've not tried? I'm at a loss.

It might be time for a new graphics card, but I don't even know if that will fix this issue.My educated guess is an unstable power supply. All the dust you found inside the case is a clue. See if you can blow out all the dust from the power supply.if its not onboard maybe graphics card needs a reseat
or maybe the moniter sync pin is broken, bent or not working
Where would I find this 'monitor sync pin' you mentioned? Is it PART of the display cable? I changed the cable already and determined that it's not the monitor or the display cable. A different monitor and different display cable produced the same issue.

I'm unsure how dust in the power supply could produce this display distortion, but I've blown all the dust out anyway.

I think it might be time for a new graphics card. This one is onboard, old, and unable to deal with most of today's games.

More information about this system, in case it helps diagnose the problem:
OS: Windows XP Professional edition, 32bit.
RAM: 1GB.
Processor: AMD Athlon 64 3500+

It's a basic eMachines desktop we bought 3 years ago, and haven't upgraded since.is there any junk in the moniter connection?
make sure the 20/24 pin PSU connection to the mobo is tight
ALSO how does the screen look during POST?
only hope your mobo hasnt gone BADI'll check the PSU connection. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll let you know how that goes.
There is no junk in the monitor connection.
The screen has the same distortion during POST.
I hope my mobo hasn't gone bad also. I've heard that resorting to a hard reset can (rarely) cause problems, but what else can you do when your computer freezes up? the worst that can happen from a hard reset is hdd damage
if after checking what was sugjested earlyer
disconnect the hdd
and see if it still does itPSU connection checked and reseated.
Hard drive disconnected, computer had the same issue upon boot. Hard drive reconnected.
As a last resort, RAM reseated.

Still no change. I'm going to bed and gonna TRY again tomorrow.have a video card you can barrow?
if so plug it in
if it still does it PSU or mobo is shot
otherwise the onboard is badThanks to everyone who helped. The onboard GPU was indeed bad. I got a new graphics card (not top of the range, just something functional) and it fixed the problem.Quote from: Epyonmk3 on September 09, 2009, 08:58:20 AM

Thanks to everyone who helped. The onboard GPU was indeed bad. I got a new graphics card (not top of the range, just something functional) and it fixed the problem.

Alright, so I killed Catalyst and now the SECOND desktop stays there about a quarter of the time when I change the channel and the rest of the time it doesn't. And the times when it does work the resolution is all JAZZED up but other times it's not. However, every time I TURN the TV on the screen flashes, leading me to believe that it's aware there is a second monitor for a brief second or two.

I'm just wondering, does this sound more like a problem with the card or the TV to you?the screen always flashes when connecting a new moniter
it should stop withen 30 seconds and display properlyNeither yet, we're still trying things.

When you go into Display Properties, it shows you both screens that are available as 1 and 2, correct?
What happens when you select the monitor with the 2 on it and tell it to Identify Monitor, does it show on the TV?When the second one won't work, both monitors are shown but the TV is grayed out. I right click on it and Identify is grayed out. So I clicked extend desktop onto this monitor and then it works again.you are suppose to have that always checkedIs there any way that you can test this with an actual second monitor?

I'm getting the feeling that it's something with the TV.

Oh, double check that you are still running it at 60Hz.Quote from: smeezekitty on August 23, 2009, 07:59:24 PM

you are suppose to have that always checked

Is there any way that you can test this with an actual second monitor?

I'm getting the feeling that it's something with the TV.

Oh, double check that you are still running it at 60Hz.

Hi guys,

I have a short .avi file on a CD. It plays about 3/4 of the way through and then I get the message "Windows Media Player cannot play the CD. The disc MIGHT be dirty or damaged." - but the information that I want is in the first 3/4 so I don't really care about the last 1/4.

I would like to TRANSFER what I have to my PC, but it tried for a while before saying "cannot read from the source file or disk." and then of course it rejects the whole copying process.

I just thought that there must be some way of copying the readable 3/4 that I want from my CD to my computer?

Any info would be GRATEFULLY received.

Regards,
Kop442000.kop44200, Very INTRIGUING that the disc is in someway "damaged or corrupted" and that it will play ANYTHING. Obviously you can try cleaning it. Have you tried using a program to copy the part you want to your computer hardrive? If it plays you should be able to capture the required portion back to your HDD and then using a new disc re record it. Another thing you can try is download VLC media player (it's free) as often it will play things Media Player will not. If those options don't work come back and we'll try other things.truenorth
P.S. Let us know how things work out.

IS there a major difference in speed between a 3E Ghz an a 3.06 ghz? According to this http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/server/se7210tp1-e/sb/cs-008322.htm does that mean it is faster then?Quote from: squall_01 on August 30, 2009, 02:50:10 PM

IS there a major difference in speed between a 3E Ghz an a 3.06 ghz? According to this http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/server/se7210tp1-e/sb/cs-008322.htm does that mean it is faster then?

My onboard NIC sucks! It is only 10/100 onboard and the worse part, not fully reliable. I will want to upgrade to a Intel PRO 1000/MT. It's only $15 online on ebay and supports GIGABIT.That NIC seems to need PCI-X which isn't found on MANY motherboards. If your motherboard has the correct slot - Yes it is a fantastic card but I don't think that it will be compatable.

Personally I have a Sitecom Gigabit card and I can't fault it. I even bought another two to put in my server.

To see if it is compatable - look at your motherboard for a PCI-X slot (The 2 LONGER white slots in this picture)

the Inspiron 530 definitely does NOT have a PCI-X slot; it PROBABLY has PCI and PCI-E slots, however.

I know the inspiron 530 does not have PCI X slots. I am talking about the desktop non PCI X version.

2002 ATX PC. Power comes on only for an instant; enough to turn the fans a second. PSU is good(tested on other COMPUTER). AC source is good. Connections to motherboard are good. Power on switch is good. Thoughts?
Has the machine been moved recently ? ?Yeah it's been moved. In fact, I'm USING it and another like it to experiment and LEARN from.Remove and re-seat both the RAM and any addon cards that are installed...
Gently shake the case to SEE if there may be a LOOSE screw rattling around in there...this is known to short out the MBoard.Unbelievable, it was the RAM! Thanks Patio!Excellent!
Glad to hear you are fixed up...

I recently remodeled my home office. The computer was moved into another room until the work was DONE. Once completed, it was placed BACK into the office and reconnected. I powered up and began working on a PROJECT. I loaded a picture cd and after a few seconds the screen flashed. It flashed again an the computer has not powered up since.

It is about 6 YEARS old now and has had moderate use. I had been keeping in on long hours before the move. Is there any hope for my computer? I forgot, and don't know if it matters, but it's a Dell.


Keeping my fingers crossed!
Be Blessed!Check the power connections> replace the power cable>Replace the power supply if still dont work. When replacing the power supply use a supply of equal wattage or greater. Keep in mind that since the pc is a dell you MIGHT have to use that model.I agree with xavier, most likely it's the power supply. If you're lucky it's generic, if not you'll have to get it from Dell. Give us the model number of the Dell or the Service Tag number located on the back.

Hi there,

My Computer is roughly 2 years old. I'm looking at some upgrades.

I have lots of questions.

1) Should a new motherboard have DDR3 RAM support (I'll have to buy all new RAM if that's the case)? Is there such thing as a motherboard that supports DDR2 and DDR3? (I have 3 GB of DDR2 RAM right now. Running XP and plan to stay on XP)

2) I found a motherboard that supports AM2, AM2+ and AM3 CPU socket. Would that be good; as in leave room for more upgrades? I have an AM2 processor at the moment.

3) Like I mentioned, processor. Would it be good to get a quad CORE?

4) If I were to get a faster processor (up from a 2.2 GHz dual core), would that SPEED up framerates on my video card? Or would it need to be new video card alltogether. Just got one, and not performing quite as well as I would have wished, and games are only going to get bigger.

I'm only 14 years old, so I don't have huge amounts of money (and I don't want to spend every penny in my bank account on this), but do you guys have any suggestions? I'm looking for a good upgrade; something that will last me a fairly good amount of time.What's your mainly usage with a computer?QUOTE from: tju2an on August 23, 2009, 02:03:34 PM

What's your mainly usage with a computer?

i think it seems fine for alot of games
one note is that processor wont be very fast for detailed 3d

My work computer is awful SLOW. I was thinking about upgrading the CPU. Yes, I'm upgrading the ram, but the cpu is what I'm asking about. What WOULD be my first STEP? I'm anticipating somebody saying find out what motherboard you have and if its cpu can be upgraded, but how do I do that? Is there a PROGRAM somebody can recommend? Also, if that's not the first step, would somebody be willing to give their opinion.

thanks I think you've answered your own QUESTIONS; need more info. Download CPU-Z and it will tell you a lot about what you have now.
http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php

newly built computer, when i played my games (single player) i had these lag spikes every 1-2 minutes. So, i opened up my computer, and my GPU was so hot i almost burned my self handling it. I pulled off the cover and dusted it, it was still getting crazy hot really fast!!!! I took it out again and opened the back, nothing seemed dusty so i didn't touch anything, just sealed it up.

Now i'm getting constant blue screens, says its a hardware error, it most commonly happens when i run games. This is a computer that was running crysis on the highest setting, not even overlocking. I'm using a 9800GT that i have had since it came out. Was very dusty.

someone PLEASE help!!! my beta for a game called mortal online comes out tomorrow that i have been waiting for, well for about 2 years.

I'm running it in SAFE mode right now waiting for a blue screen, so that i can comment more about it. But until then, please help!!!
What is the EXACT blue screen error?Did you replace that VIDEO CARD yet?

My speed FAN report is showing a flame next to my processor's temperature of 55 C... According to my sources, my AMD processor's max. TEMP. is 85 C..

My computer seems to run fine most of the TIME.. What's with the flame? It can be adjusted...set something 10 deg. below your max temps...oh, I see thx No Problem...anytime.55C idle?Is this a LAPTOP or a desktop?

For some reason my computer resolution keeps changing from its native resolution of 1900x 1200 to 1280x768 when I reboot. I have tried different drivers for this card, (Geforce 260GTX) but I still keep getting the same PROBLEM. My OS is WINDOWS vista 32BIT and if I recall the same thing happened on the last card I had. Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this. Thanks!!open msconfig to the STARTUP tab and see if there is something starting that might be calling for a resolution change. If you're not sure, just disable all the startup PROGRAMS and reboot - does the resolution still change?Still the same problem.Anyone have any other ideasI would try a different monitor, or try the existing monitor on a different computer. It could be reporting an inability to display that resolution to the OS.

I thought it was SATA and just ordered one and got it and it doesn't fit.


the model number is:

IC25N040ATCS04-0


I got a SATA 2.5 just now and the bar is longer. On it i SEE it says ATA/IDE.


I thought sata was flat and the IDE was two rows of pins that stick out.


This has flat across and on one end it has a very short row of pins. So what do i NEED?


i can upload a pic if you need... maybe I just need a 3.5 instead of 2.5?http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b191/jtballer3/Picture39.jpg

there's a picture.


it doesn't look like the other connectors on the ENCLOSURES that i've SEEN?See Your Other Thread...

Quote from: smeezekitty on September 09, 2009, 04:57:33 PM

i beleve the if it ain't broke DONT fix it applies here
i am trying to get my posts PER day down
but i just had to post in this case because
lets just get a new computer even though the old one is working fine

i beleve the if it ain't broke dont fix it applies here

i am trying to get my posts per day down

Hi all, if anyone could help me I would really appreciate it.

My 3 year old self made PC has recently started playing up. Up till now I've never had any MAJOR problems.

I went away for a week but when I returned and turned it on the case lights and FANS flashed on before powering off a split second later. I tried again and the next time it loaded completely, I used it for about 30 min before it switched off by itself. After that, I loaded it again and it worked fine for about an hour, I was able to turn it off normally. Since the day after that I haven't been even able to boot at all, it has been switching off at random times throughout the bootup, sometimes a second after powering on and other times after nearly booting completely. When I try to boot in safe MODE it still shuts down by itself.

The only relevant factors I can think of that may have affected it is the one week adsence (I usually use it everyday). I haven't moved it or installed any new hardware for ages.

I've googled this question and tried to work out what to do from other PEOPLE's posts but to no avail. It seems that it could be CMOS battery, power supply failure, ram, virus (I have been using NOD32 since I got it) or soemthing else...

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'll be happy to ANSWER any questions.

Peace,

Dan



your bios update load new biosQuote from: imranbangee on August 18, 2009, 01:18:17 AM

your bios update load new bios

I have a List of just STANDARD PCI Slots and I WANTED to KNOW if I had all the DATA about them right?

P.C.I
33 MHz
1.
32 Bits
133 MBPS

P.C.I
66 MHz
1
32 Bits
266 MBps

P.C.I
33 MHz
1.
64 Bits
266 MBps

P.C.I – X 64
66 MHz
1.
64 Bits
533 MBps

P.C.I – X 133
133 MHz
1.
64 Bits
1,066 MBps

P.C.I – X 266
133 MHz
2.
64 Bits
2,1132 MBps

P.C.I – X 533
133 MHz
4.
64 Bits
4,266 MBps

Hi all,

Unfortunately my custom gaming computer does not seem to POST successfully. It does detect the CPU and RAM, however it takes longer than usual to actually find the IDE drives (I have 1 IDE drive [booting drive], and 1 SATA drive):

I have a 86 GB IDE drive and a Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 1TB SATA HDD.

It doesn't seem to get past that stage and I've tried GETTING into the BIOS, however the computer says "Prepare to enter Setup" and stays like that.

The XPressRecovery2 and Boot Menu do not seem to be accessible either.

The motherboard used is the Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3LR.
The CPU is an Intel Pentium D 805.
The Ram is GeiL 2GB DDR2 667/800.

I don't know what to do, other than check the connections of the drives to the motherboard.

Before this occurred yesterday, I had made the mistake of using "Stand By" on my computer, then awakening it some hours later to find some of my data on the SATA drive was lost and the 3.3v,1.8v and 12.5v being 4.0v (thereby overvolted?).

[Using Windows XP SP1]

I QUICKLY shut it down and tried to check if any connections were loose, then I switched it on again.

Then these problems occurred.

Any assistance is greatly appreciated.Whatever drive you have your OS on leave that connected >dis connect the others and re boot. This is a check only for starters.I've isolated the problem:

It was the Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 1 TB drive.

With the 86 GB IDE connected only, the computer actually completed POST and I was also able to get into the BIOS, and boot into Windows.

I didn't have much in that drive, however have a feeling I have to replace it.

I am posting from the computer now, and the voltages are all normal.

Is it okay to try to put the SATA drive back in?give it a try
but is sounds like the control curccuit on that sata drive is friedI tried connecting the SATA drive in the 1st SATA port, with the same results as the original problem, (staying on Detecting IDE drives forever), then in another port (I think the 3rd/2nd) and the computer POSTed, but didn't detect the SATA drive.

I think what smeezekitty says is true, the control circuit on the SATA drive is "fried".

It looks like another thing I'm going to have to get when I go down to my local computer parts store next Saturday.

(Along with an Intel Core 2 Duo E7xxx/E8xxx and a ATI Radeon HD 4870)

[EDIT: What are the normal voltage LEVELS for a PSU? Speedfan shows Vcore1 as 1.34v, Vcore2 as 1.81v, +3.3 as 3.38v, +5(1st) as 5.11v. +12 as 2.37v, -12 as -16.02, -5 as -8.48, +5 (2nd) as 5.27v, Vbat as 3.12v and VCore as 3.00v]Check your WARRANTY on that drive....1TB is relatively new and it should be covered...

Voltages should be within 10%...I've checked the drive's box for warranty, except it was purchased in HONG Kong.

And also I didn't register for online warranty...

So what you're saying is that the +12v, -12v, and -5v are all abnormal?They may be being mis-reported...don't rely on only the speedfan report for results...

BTW the drive manuf. will be able to tell from the batch# approx how old the drive is...I just bought the drive about a month ago...

I checked the BIOS voltage readings, they seem good from what was reported.Contact the drive maker...they normally will bend over backwards to satisfy if you let them know you are a loyal customer...
Explain the circumstances and they will probably issue a RMA and ship you a brand new drive.

i've had both WD and Seagate replace drives that were well out of warranty...

Hi,

Going to upgrade VIDEO card.

I found a EVGA 9800 GTX+ 512 MB.

I was wondering, is it WORTH the $30 extra to go with the GTX+ over the GT?I guess yes for FPS.Keep in mind that just in case cost is a concern to you, UNLESS your motherboard supports PCIexpress 2.0, it WONT be worth getting either one of those cards.

In otherwords, if your motherboard only supports PCIexpress 1.0 (original) then those cards will not run at their full potential, therefore, save some money and go for something in the "1.0" range.

When my charger isn't plugged in the laptop the green light is always on. When I plug it in the green light starts blinking and the laptop gets charges in little spurts. Is this a problem with the charger or the battery?Remove the battery and repeat charger HOOK up. Does it still BLINK?yeah it doesI would guess a problem with your charger. Do you have another?No, I'll see if I can FIND someone who has one that will fitthanksI BET that will fix your problem. I would make sure the borrowed PS covers your power requirements (I'm thinking CAREFUL of too small output current even if your voltage is right)

and YWand most important of all is polarity
if you get that wrong
you will destroy or battery and or damage the laptop

I have encountered a strange situation. My PC (DG31PR Mobo,Core2duo proc) doesn't boot up normally.Remembering of the moisture I heated inside the case for some time with an electric bulb and the PC started up.Now it is necessary for the PC to heap up all the time to get it booted up. What might be gone wrong? Please help me to sort it out.Where the heck did this moisture come from ? ?

It's a sure enemy of any electronics...Thank you Patio. I heated up the PC doubting of the atmospheric moisture. If both sides of the mobo are heated for a short while the pc will power on and work fine. otherwise ther is no power up also.But I dont know if heating a particular area suffice. I've never encountered this...how old is this machine and where is it that it sees ALOT of moisture is what i was getting at ? ?

The heat issue could also point to a faulty MBoard since the expansion from the heat somehow makes it work....
Check for any bulging/leaking capacitors on the MBoard.The elusive "hair dryer" rears it's head.......motherboard traces could be cracked and the expansion makes the connection...or maybe it's a power supply on the way out....swap in a known good unit see if it stops the problem.I guess westom was right all along.....heat is a diagnostic tool afterall.The 'moisture' was only a doubt and by which I heated the Board.Now it is almost sure that the culprit is not moisture. I too suspect it is a CRACK and expansion situation.But once booted up it works fine for hours.The machine is just 6 months old. The power supply I checked and found fine. But the problem STILL persists. Now my experiment is to find out that exact place where it has to be heated to get it started.Any suggestions to save my time?If it is only 6 months old i would RETURN it for a warranty replacement...Of course I will return it for a warranty replacement.But solving it by ourselves gives a little satisfaction. I have cornered the problem somewhere near to the processor. That is the place where it has to be heated to START upTrying to solve it this way may waste your good bucks. It seems a processor leg bad contact

I have an asus motherboard (M3A78-EM) that supports native DDR2 1066. I'm looking at a VIDEO card that has onboard DDR3 (card is PNY - NVIDIA GeForce XLR8 GTS 250 1GB DDR3 PCI Express Graphics Card). Will this card work in my computer?If you want my opinion, yes it will work..

Google for "ddr3 video on ddr2 motherboard"

There are quite a few hits


here's one:

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090812173830AAI0uM1Yes.

That motherboard can handle that video card. The motherboard doesn't REALLY care what type of memory is in the video card. As long as you have a PCI-E x16 slot OPEN, you can install it.

I am building my 3rd computer. However, The MSi motherboard K9A2GF, is CLEAR as to which connection goes where and its polarity, however my tower connector wires only identify the connection, not the polarity.
My most recentcomputer was a ready built that blew 3 power supplies before I figured out that the motherboard must be shorting them out. But I LIKE the tower so am using it with new motherboard and cpu.
I am 70 and my cataract surgery isn't until next month, so my daughter is helping with these connections and NEITHER of us know color coding of wires well enough to know which wire is + and which -. Where can I find a chart of the coding COLORS for + and - ?http://books.google.com/books?id=lLLTarb7e3YC&pg=PT136&lpg=PT136&dq=pc+front+panel+connector+wire+colours&source=bl&ots=mcXOErG0MW&sig=awD3uRzFzMPMXaGdbvn9WkIC3iQ&hl=en&ei=wKuLSp6vL5qOjAezvr1e&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=7#v=onepage&q=&f=false
What colours are your wires and are they labelled on the black connector as to what they are.my power switch connector is MARKED by function but not + -
there is an orange and a white wire

JoAnne
White is power ...or +

Ok, I was told that I could remove the hard drive from my work laptop and put in the same model drive and basically use the laptop as my own personal PC without anyone being the wiser? My work laptop HD is fairly secure meaning all the ports are shut down and you can load any software on it without direct IT helpdesk intervention. Hence, its fairly useless to me other than for PURE work when I am traveling. This means I have to lug around two computers which sucks not just for the added weight, but twice the pain going through security etc. My friend told me the rest of the computer (other than the HD) is basically a brick and doesn't store any info anywhere?! I want to be certain this is the case before going to buy ANOTHER HD, install software etc, and of course risk getting in trouble at work! Can you please confirm/deny?This isn't my site, but if it were I'd tell you to check with your boss and ask his opinion. I'd then close down this thread. But as I said, it's not my site.Right, well I dint think my boss is any sort of IT expert and its not like I am trying to do something insidious. I think there is no way information from one drive could harm the other as they would never be connected and to the "net" my personal drive would look like any of my other computers!

Bosses generally say no to ANYTHING especially if they think there could possibly be a risk.Well, SINCE he's the one providing the equipment it's his option - and right - to say no.Since you are suggesting a scenario that falls OUTSIDE of our Forum guidelines this Topic is closed.

Any questions feel free to PM me.

My Canon MF5550 multifunction 4-in-1 has a USB connection to my Windows XP computer. I am not on a network and don't need a password. A couple of days ago, it printed out a couple of half-pages (as they all do occasionally), so I opened the paper drawer, added more paper, closed it, and opened and shut the front cover. The LCD indicated it was busuness as usual. Now it won't print. The Control Panel/printers SAYS it is offline. I have exhausted Microsofr Help, Troubleshooting, and the command line (to which the printer won't respond). I have shut everything off, re-installed the printer, re-installed the drivers, rebooted--it won't even print a test page. I have searched the printer manual. I have no trouble SCANNING from the computer software, so the computer can communicate with the MF5550. The Control Panel keeps saying the printer is offline. Checking "print offline" doesn't do a thing. When I type ctrl-P and click on "find printer," a notice comes up that "the directory service is currently unavailable." How do I get this thing online? Please help--I am a professor, my classes start in a week, and I am dead in the water without my printer.

Thanks,
Suesjpeters,Welcome to the CH forums. When you go into "my computer--printers and faxes" what printer(s) are listed there and which one (if more than one is listed) is selected as default?truenorthDear Truenorth, thanks for answering so quickly. There are 3 MF5550s listed (since I reinstalled it so many times). They are all offline. I tried each one as the default printer, to no AVAIL. There are 3 other somethings listed as being "ready"--I tried one and it is some sort of print to file thing (gives the document a new extension). I don't know why my printer is offline.
Sue

OK while i do not have any experience with this canon model printer issues are USUALLY pretty much caused by the same issues. I compliment you on this particular choice it seems to be an extremely good printer (when it works). Except for a certain drawback with the "fax" function which does not seem to be your issue. I would like you to tell me more about the "other" things that are listed in your "printer/faxes window". What are they called? Now because you are showing 3 separate instances of the MF5550 you have NOT uninstalled all of them as you have thought. 1st there are a couple of easy quick things i want you to try. Go back to the printer /fax window and remove 2 of the entries (right click on the 2 and select "delete"). With only one remaining right click on it in the open window and select "properties". Then in the window select "advanced". If not chosen check the small circle to select "always available". Also in the same window with the "general "tab displayed your printer should be there and it should have a check mark beside it indicating it is the default printer. It should also be noted in the "model" and the "COMMENTS " on the "general" window. Another quick thing to try AFTER you have ensured the above is to try another USB port on the computer (preferably if not already so a rear port). If none of this changes anything we will then proceed to the sequence of reinstalling the printer. So please advise and we shall determine the next step.truenorthDear Truenorth, I have now rechristened you Truewonder. I followed all of your advice, got rid of the duplicate installations--nothing. Then I changed the USB cable and plugged it into another port on the back. This disabled my mouse, which I found a little strange (I know a little about the Universal Serial bus--I lecture on it briefly in MIDI class--I thought the ports were identical, and could support several peripherals even without a hub). So I plugged it into the other rear port which reenabled the mouse, but no printing. So I plugged it into the front lower port (my computer is less than a year old), and voila! A new entry for the printer mysteriously appeared on Contol Panel, and it was marked "ready," not offline. And then--after 5 days of this hassle--it printed! Thanks you so much. I have never belonged to a forum like this before, and am eternally grateful that it exists and that you took the time to deal with my problem. Now for my copier, which keeps printing dark copies, but that's another entry. SueYour very welcome glad that you now have the use of that very fine printer and your educational career can proceed without impedance. ;)Your issue with the darkness of your copies ought to be easily corrected by a darkness/brightness alteration in the copier portion of your copying program. Just look for it and you should find some variables that can be changed to affect that.truenorth

i didnt sue them i used then
my KEYBOARD is quitting
i giggled at that oneI dont know if this will help but i kinda had the same problem . I changed out my cdrom/dvd , and after installing new one I couldnt find drive on computer . I took to "Geek Squad" (no other choice) and FIRST question was "do you use an I-pod" ? And ofcourse answer was yes , they used their magical device and put the drive BACK in . They said sometimes Apple does weird things in computers (not their lingo). If this has nothing to do with ur prob , sorry for the post . Quote from: patio on August 17, 2009, 05:20:18 AM

What part of "we don't suggest using Registry CLEANERS" did you not understand ? ?

I dont know if this will help but i kinda had the same problem . I changed out my cdrom/dvd , and after installing new one I couldnt find drive on computer . I took to "Geek Squad" (no other choice) and first question was "do you use an I-pod" ? And ofcourse answer was yes , they used their magical device and put the drive back in . They said sometimes Apple does weird things in computers (not their lingo). If this has nothing to do with ur prob , sorry for the post .

Well when I turn my secondary monitor on after it's been off for a while it just starts turning on and off continuously by itself and after a while it will stop and stay on. It's only done this twice so far, yesterday and just now today when I got home just now, and it started doing it for no reason that I can tell.

I have Windows XP service pack 2 with an ATI Radeon X1600 video card and an AMD Athlon 64 X2 processor and 2GB of OCZ Gold RAM and a Sound Blaster LIVE! 24-bit video card and a Seagate 160GB hard drive.

I suspect and a friend of mine told me it's a short in the monitor but he gives me bad computer advice frequently telling me to REFORMAT for the simplest of things I find solutions for later. H*ll I'm surprised he didn't tell me I needed to reformat to fix this. I just want to be for sure before I go spending a lot of money on a new monitor when it COULD be fixed perhaps.Hi i've encounter that problem in my CRT monitor. The cause of the problem is in the power supply or the vertical ZONE, Just send it for repair... If the prblm. is in that monitor it would not be worth having it repaired

thanks guys in advance of this ? i have a dell optiplex gx1, 128mb ram,40gb hdd, nothing special on it. thunderstorm CAME up. i believe lighting run in on it. i think it burn up psu. i BOUGHT a new one and replaced it but to no avail. however both old and new psu acts the same on my tester. is it possible the lighting run through the psu and destroyed the mb only? is it possible the new psu is bad too? the led lights COME on the front of pc. the LIGHT on the cd-rom also is on but will not open. can not cut pc off either without unplugging it. also removed memory to check mb for BEEPS but no beeps. also the cable co. modem had to be replaced. can anybody help me solve this problem? thanks so much. rodsupplyCompletely remove the modem and try again...

I have a Dell Inspiron 5150.

When I plug in the power cord to the laptop it will not start or charge normally. If I wiggle the cord some the lights will blink as if while I'm wiggling it, it is connecting and not connecting, as if there's a short or something.

Also, if I am ever able to get it to work just right, or even if it is running on battery power, the laptop simply will not boot unless I do some major crazy things to it.

In the past I've been able to apply pressure to the area below the keyboard and the laptop will come on, but if I take off pressure it will shut right off. If I hold the laptop in a weird way like on it's side it will come on sometimes, but if I MAKE one minor little movement then it will shut down.

I really don't understand this and when I called customer service when I had it under warranty they did not understand it either.

So when I push the power button I can hear the fan for a SECOND and it sounds like it's booting but after maybe 2 seconds it just shuts down.

So, it seems there may be at least two problems to me. But I really don't know much of anything. I was thinking maybe it's not getting a connection from the AC power, but that doesn't explain why it will not boot unless I hold it in weird ways.


Any ideas? This has stumped me for so long, and I just took the keyboard off myself for the first time... and it would just be amazing if someone knew the problem! hahahttp://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/topic/43678/

WOW!jtballer, rather amazing that you answered your own question. I would like to give you one suggestion. I do note that you had at sometime reported this anomaly to Dell while the computer was STILL under WARRANTY. I don't know how long ago that was but they would have KEPT a record of the report. I would suggest BEFORE you apply the "fix" suggested in the article that you contact them and apprise them of the facts that you have uncovered and insist that they deal with it as a warranty issue. Make all the appropriate noises (if necessary) about future computer purchases,etc. Only if they after that refuse to fix it then TRY the "fix". I am sure that if they weren't aware of the issue when you 1st called they are now. Let us know how it goes.goodluck,truenorthDoes this sound like a shameless plug for another site?No...not at all.... Geez! Quantos never would have thought that--you think?truenorthQuote from: truenorth on August 15, 2009, 04:21:27 PM

Geez! Quantos never would have thought that--you think?truenorth

but i'm trying to save my hard drive and I ordered and enclosure and it doesn't fit.

i think it's an SATA drive. I got a 2.5, and think maybe a 3.5 is what it needs? But it says IDE/ATA on the hard drive so i'm not sure.

hey yeah i know a little bit about that. they had extended the warranty and then later on i called and they had told me it was expired.

i guess at this point i'm just trying to figure out what type of enclosure will go with that hard drive?

here's a pic of the connector:
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b191/jtballer3/Picture39.jpg

Hi, I have SpeedFan and Asus Probe II installed to monitor my CPU temps. my CPU normally runs at 40C at idle, and when given a load with Prime 95 torture test it will run at 55c. But for no apparent reason, suddenly I look at my CPU temp and it's shot to 80c under a NORMAL load Speedfan is showing my fan speeds are normal. I have not overclocked, I'm just checking for stability before I do .any possible reason for the sudden spike?Use real temp to monitor temps. What cpu do you have? Dont even try to oc if your temps are 40c idle. Also, clean out all of the DUST inside and reapply the thermal paste.Intel(R) Pentium(R) Dual CPU E2140 @ 1.60GHz I just cleaned it out, I was idling at 50C. What temp should I be idling at?Just dont let it go over around 60.I was thinking of buying some Arctic silver 5, would that work for me?That's top notch thermal paste.Okay, had to bring this THREAD back up.

I'm using various temp monitors, and they all show my CPU temp suddenly jump up to 80c, but my core temps are nice and cold at 29c. What's causing this?I wouldnt worry about itQuote from: cygnus1 on August 19, 2009, 05:03:31 AM

Okay, had to bring this thread back up.

I'm using various temp monitors, and they all show my CPU temp suddenly jump up to 80c, but my core temps are nice and cold at 29c. What's causing this?

I have a barcode PRINTER (Datamax E-Class) which has only a parallel connector. My new computer doesn't have a parallel port, only USB. Is there such a thing as an adapter to run a parallel device from a USB port ? Would such a device also need some kind of software converter ?
(Running XP-Pro SP2 and also Vista Home.)
http://www.cablestogo.co.uk/product.asp?productid=81626

Connect the parallel end of the connector cable to the parallel port on your printer, scanner or other parallel peripheral device.
Step
2

Plug the USB end of the connector cable to an open USB port on your computer, then turn on your device. Your computer will automatically detect the device as a new hardware.
Step
3

Insert the INSTALLATION disc for your device into the CD-ROM drive, then follow the instructions to install your device drivers. This may vary DEPENDING on the device connected. If you do not have an installation CD, check your manufacturer's website for driver downloads.
Step
4

Perform a test print, scan or function with your device to MAKE sure that the connection is secure and the drivers are properly installed.
As simple as that ? That's great. Many THANKS for your help.
JOr if you don't want to pay that much--here is an alternative source. I have used them and found them very satisfactory. All items ordered include FREE shipping.You must have patience however as it can take up to 10-12 weeks for receipt of the item.Paypal is a preferred method of payment (if you don't have a Paypal account they are easy to set up). http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.9135 truenorthAnother solution here is add a parallel port to your computer. All you need is an empty PCI slot. Here's one card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815166007Thanks for all this help guys, I never knew all this existed. I don't need to use the barcode printer very often these days but when I do, I really must. I guess the cable option is the most useful then I can run the printer off my laptop too.
Thanks again for the help.
J
You can use a PCI or a USB to Parallel converter. One thing you should check on the printer is a USB output. If there's a output, use it, otherwise, use a converter.

Hi there all,

I have a question regarding hard drive size limitation... I recently purchased a modded xbox which when I was doing a bit of a cleanup (dusty inside) I noticed that it had 250gb hard drive the brand and type is Seagate IDE. The hard drive will only allow me to see or use 120gb of space.

I have tried formatting the hard drive on my mac which enables me to format it in MS-DOS file system or MAC OS Extended or Extended (Journaled). The Disk Utility I have used on my mac will only see 120gb and nothing more, so 120gb is all that I can format and use. I have also tried using a AID Auto Installer for XBOX which has partitioning and formatting software called XB Partitioner. This also only allows me to see 120gb and not the full 250gb hard drive. I don't think that it's a bios issue as I have previously installed 250gb, 500gb & 1TB Hard Drives in my xbox's and they work fine and my Mac can definitely see the larger 500gb that it already has installed.

I hope someone is able to TELL me what I could try to get this hard drive to read the full disc space.

Thanks.use a partitioning tool and repartitionYep. I used XB Partitioner and no luck. Also the Mac Disk Utility enables me to setup partitions also and was unable to see past the 120gb.try deleteing all partitions and create one 250 gb partition
if that doesnt work the drive must be badI will take it to work and boot it up on a windows xp machine see if it helps. I would say bye bye OLD HDD. Does'nt want to interface with any type program. Of course, always check the jumper. Try this HDD read/write link. It also has very good SMART testing, sector by sector scanning and will check media integrity.Jumper is fine and set to cable select as that is what's required on my xbox. Jumper was set to master when formatting on my mac and SMART was verified also, so I'm really unsure why it won't show the full volume. What was that link you referred to?

When I go to format the drive on my mac it doesn't recognize any other partitions other than the 120gb so I can't see how it was partitioned earlier to a smaller size? Model number via samsung verified as being a 250gb hard drive also.Sorry about that? It didn't post. I have a couple that may help you. I can tell you that Xbox chose to use the Seagte HDD with out Seagate having the ability to create or support the Xbox HDD. Is that how ya do it or what. lol

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/316505

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/906204/

Hope this helps.

Isn't xboxes only to use with 120Gb memory? It's probably someone who's set the partition to 120 with a reason, but if you are to use it in a computer, you should probably be able to partition 250Gb
Quote from: jaythom1969 on AUGUST 23, 2009, 04:24:48 AM

Sorry about that? It didn't post. I have a couple that may help you. I can tell you that Xbox chose to use the Seagte HDD with out Seagate having the ability to create or support the Xbox HDD. Is that how ya do it or what. lol

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/316505

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/906204/

http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287

Hope this helps.

hey im have problem cause when i had REBOOTED my computer and i put a DVD in it said it can not READY it cause my dvd DECODER is missing where do i go to get a new one http://www.uberdownloads.comRegarding uberdownloads: http://www.mywot.com/en/scorecard/uberdownloads.comJosh
What player do you USE?

I'm using a P4 system with an Intel chipset which worked fine for about 6yrs until recently it stopped to switch on.

The symptoms are that, when ever i power up my PC, the LED on the motherboard is glowing bright but the SMPS FAN and the fan on the processor are rotating for about 3 secs and then coming to a halt, the mouse, monitor, keyboard are getting their power but the monitor is blank all the time. I don't think tat neither of the HDD (IDE), the DVD drive, the floppy drive are being powered up. I'm not able to access the BIOS too. Also i hear a buzzing noise from the PC.

I would like to know how i can FIX this problem. I am not certain but it sounds like your PSU is on its way out.The buzzy noise is probably coming from your PSU, where something probably is wrong. If you got one, TAKE another PSU and TEST on your computer. If it solves the problem, you can either use it or purchase a new one.

Also, is your computer shutting down afterwards? or is it just turned on without any progress?Sometimes the pc's turning off immediately And sometimes it's not.. But as i said, the processor fan and smps fan stop rotating almost after 3secs after i hit the power button to start my pc.. And the led on the board's always glowing.. But the drives r not gettin their power..

Is there any solution whereby one can turn the system restore on when they are in safe mode? Or through other techniques without logging on to normal mode? My computer can't load into normal mode for it becomes blue screen just right before the logging page when I TRY to go normal mode.Here you go...

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/304449Still can't for the problem lies with the fact I did not turn the system restore on. It is like this: I went to the System Information and under the system restore column I've checked the box turn system restore off. When I try to uncheck it, it says I can only do that in normal mode. Is there any other solution out for this?How to start the System Restore tool by using the safe mode option with the Command prompt in Windows XP: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/304449Have you tried booting to "Last Known Good Configuration"? If that doesn't work and if you are using XP you can do a repair install (boot to the XP CD and CHOOSE the SECOND repair option).I've tried but still can't. I do not have the Windows XP installation disc1. Restore Points. Your restore points are essentially gone. When you turn off "System Restore" and later turn on "System Restore"; all of your previous restore points are deleted. System Restore "restore points" are missing or deleted

2. Blue Screen of Death (BSOD). If you want help resolving BSOD, that's the "subject" you should be posting. Post the "exact" error message and text that you're receiving.

This utility from NirSoft may help extract that information: BlueScreenView v1.05 - View BSOD crash information

3. Clean Boot. You can use msconfig in "Safe Mode" to configure "clean boot" for "Normal Mode": How to configure Windows XP to start in a "clean boot" state. If you can "clean boot" into Normal mode, you can probably isolate problem by bringing other programs/services on line one-by-one until problem reoccurs.

Be careful with "msconfig". Rumour has it, you can modify the settings to the POINT where you can no longer boot the operating system in any mode.

4. System File Checker. If you can get to "Normal" mode, you may be able to run the "system file checker" command "sfc /scannow" either at a command prompt or from the "Start -> Run text box". This will check for missing or corrupt system files and attempt to REPLACE them with fresh copies. You probably won't need a Windows XP CD to do this. Backup copies of these file are usually already on your hard drive; but you may have to modify windows registry to point to them. See and print out if possible: System File Checker How To's, How to run it with and without a Windows CD.It is perfectly okay (and legal) to borrow an XP CD to do a repair install. Just MAKE sure it's the same version (Home / Pro) and service pack that you already have installed.Thanks for the info dohlarbear. Good info sites to hang onto!

how many os can be installed in a single partion of 40 gb hdd,i WANT use all the os in NTFS mode.
thanks in advanceone
i have never seen more then 1 os on a partition and it boots problem freeOr are you asking what the minimum size is needed to install an OPERATING system if you repartition the drive?

Generally, though, you can indeed have only one operating system per partition.

As I have learned and read in IT class that some systems won't accept HARD drives larger than 137GB. Or am I not reading it right? I'm working on a PC that the HD crashed on and BOUGHT a 160GB HD to replace it. The problem is that the HD will show up in the bios at first start but when I restart it, it won't recognize it and says that the HD failed. This was the problem with the last HD of 120GB, which did fail with the click of death. but it would still show in the BIOS. I've tried other HDs of lower GBs, 40 and 80, and they work swell. When I first put it in, the BIOS recognized it and it STARTED loading the OS from the disk along with formatting it, then when it came to restarting on its own it said the HD Failure error. I put it in a PC similar to this one and it had no problems at all. But I put it in as a slave if that makes any sense. Anyhow its a 2001 model HP 760n PC i845 chipset board with an Award BIOS. Is it the PC age or could it be something with the controller or board?
Tomcould be a bios configure error
you could patrition it into 20gb chunksQuote from: tommcat1208 on August 19, 2009, 10:55:59 PM

1. As I have learned and read in IT class that some systems won't accept hard drives larger than 137GB. Or am I not reading it right?

2. Anyhow its a 2001 model HP 760n PC i845 chipset board with an Award BIOS. Is it the PC age or could it be something with the controller or board?
Tom

A few weeks ago, my computer gave up, with the HDD light no longer blinking and my computer no longer did anything. I took it to a very popular computer franchise which I will simply label as BB (take a guess lol) and they said it was my MOBO problem. I said okay, sure I'll get a new computer.

BUT

Today I was salvaging the pieces in my computer, most notably, my old Nvidia 8600GT. Then I decided one last time to boot up my comp without any PCI-e or PCI cards in it and PRESTO! My USB keyboard's Caps/Number/Scroll Lock were now responding and lighting up, the Yellow HDD light was flashing, and my other USB devices were alive as can be. I put my X-Fi XtremeGamer SOUND Card in, and my computer still ran. I put my video card in and no dice.

So is it possible for my Video Card to corrupt my entire Mobo and Hard Drive?

And if so, should I just replace the video card?

Thanks for all future replies!Try putting the old video card into your new computer and connecting the monitor, if it doesn't work then most likely the problem is the card..

There is a small chance however, that the power supply in your old computer isn't supplying the enough amps and removing one of the cards reserved some power for the rest of the components.. Have you tried adding only the video card without the sound card?


edit: I find it interesting that Best Buy couldn't come up with a better diagnosis... How long did that look at your computer, if they looked at it, period..............they may have just suckered you into buying another computerdoes your old computer have onboard video?
if so use that
if not
buy a fairly cheap pci card and use thatBB checked it for a week by a Microsoft Certified specialist for a week for BLOODY $90. Currently I have no video card lol, I tossed that crappy Radeon HD 3200 out the window months ago. I have a 550W Antec EarthWatts for my PSU so I'm sure that's more than enough. I'm just concerned that if I buy another video card it's gonna screw it over.

Perhaps it could be the PCI-e slot that's corrupt?No WAY in heck I'm using a PCI video card lmao. I'm a gamer, not a hardcore one but a gamer, none the less. ;-)

Edit: Grammar check.PCI ain't that bad
do you have an AGP slot
you can get cheap AGP video cards that actually have decent graphicsSo does you old computer work with only the sound card installed, using the onboard video?

Your power supply may be rated as having "enough" power, but voltage rails can go bad...I don't think so BlockHead, Antec is very good brand PSU. And unfortunately, I don't have any spare video cards or onboard video. I'm thinking of buying a new one, BUT I'm worried that it wouldn't fix the problem.

Can a single PCI-e slot be corrupted, is that ever possible?

I'm trying to isolate the problem in my mobo.I'm confused... How did you get your old computer to work if you don't have any onboard video or other video cards to try?





edit: yes, motherboard slot can go badI used to use my 8600GT until one day my computer decided to stop working.

And from there my first thread describes the situation.

I took the 8600GT from my computer, and booted my computer, no monitor, using just my keyboard as a computer diagnosis tool, which is basically all you need to tell if your computer's mobo has gone good or bad on you.

The lights did RESPOND on my keyboard which told me it was working and it kept booting fine as I plugged in the rest of my USB and PCI devices EXCEPT for my video card which went in my PCI-e x16 slot.Quote from: smeezekitty on August 22, 2009, 09:14:15 PM

PCI ain't that bad

The lights did respond on my keyboard which told me it was working and it kept booting fine as I plugged in the rest of my USB and PCI devices EXCEPT for my video card which went in my PCI-e x16 slot.

First of all I'm really , really , really sorry for posting this to the wrong place , I really don't know where this goes . :[

Anyways ..

<------------X------------->

My internet browsers have no sound at all . Everything else in my PC works 100% fine : I hear sounds , music works , voice clips work , everything ! But nothing comes out of internet browsers . I mainly USE Opera and seconday Mozilla Firefox . I'm pretty much sure it's not with : Internet Explorer -> Tools -> Advanced -> blablabla * Don't remember further , lol * -> Multimedia . It's not the settings either .

Might it be associated with my drivers ?

DriverAgent scan ID : 38b06c4e .

<------------X------------->

Once again , I'm sorry for being this dumb . I couldn't find a decent search from this forum either , Google didn't give me a working answer . Also sorry if this post already exists somewhere in this forum , I couldn't find it myself . Aaaaaand sorry again if this went to wrong section .

<------------X------------->

I'm using Windows XP SP3 x32 .



[attachment deleted by admin]Wow that's alot of sorries

Anyway..Is it possible you have your speakers set to 4 channel or 5.1 channel and you are using the rear speaker port to connect your speakers? for internet viewing eg youtube, it will only play out of the from the front LINES out.aaand how the *censored* do i change it ?Down in the bottom right corner is the system tray, one of those icons should be for your speaker drivers. I cannot give specific instructions, as different driver sets have different layouts.

Otherwise, make sure that your speakers are plugged into the GREEN socket on the rear of your computer.Quote from: Kurtiskain on August 19, 2009, 05:48:44 PM

Otherwise, make sure that your speakers are plugged into the green socket on the rear of your computer.

It has 2 UBS cables.
ONE is for Power + data and the other is just for power.
i have 1.1 USB, but the specs say drive will work with 1.1

I have one USB port on my laptop, so i have a 4 port USB hub. I connected both the power+data and the power cable to the hub and I GET nothing. The power comes on the hard drive, but the drive is not visible anywhere in my computer, windows explorer, or in disk management.also... this is a Dell laptop with XP Pro installed.Right click My Computer and select Manage then Disk management...
Does the drive show up there ? ?
If so right click the drive and select Properties and report back...it may need to be formatted first.
Are you sure you are hooking things up properly ? ?

NOTE : If that machine has only one USB slot i doubt it can run more than 3 devices unless your 4 port hub has external power....no, it does not show up in disk management.

i was thinking that maybe the 4 port hub wasn't able to handle the hard drive. it isn't 3 devices. it is one device... the hard drive. the hard drive is portable, so it has two USB cables. a power + data USB cable and a power USB cable.

the hub is a Q-stor QU24WR and it does not have external powerQuote

It has 2 UBS cables.
One is for Power + data and the other is just for power.

i know this is an old thread, but just in case you're still around... it's a Maxtor 250GB PN 9JR2A3-500