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Hello, I'm trying to print 4-up of one page on an OKI CX3641 What we want is the SAME page 4 times front and back on a 12x18 sheet of paper.

The OKI gives us 4 up, but the numbers go chronologically in a Z pattern on both sides, rather than 1 on the front, 2 in the back, 3 in the front, 4 on the back etc.

We are just starting a book binding business, but we've run into this wrench in the SYSTEM and can't get anywhere.

If you can help solve, PLEASE do!!! THANKS!just1becky, Wow that is some printer.Not likely to be in too many CH members stable me thinks.However without a specific answer to your question my suggestion would be to contact either the manufacturer or one of their dealerships. They seem to want to ASSIST their would be and current clients and are apparently building their reputation on the model you have in that EXACT arena of technical ASSISTANCE. I wish i could help more but i urge you to try that route.goodluck and WELCOME to the CH forums. Here is a link to the assessment of the printer and many comments on it which should be encouraging to you. http://www.imagesourcemag.com/article.asp?id=2327 truenorth

I had some parts lying around, enough to put together a complete system. The power supply I used was one that came free with one of my cases. I know that these PSU's are UNRELIABLE and cheap, so I replaced it with an upgrade. The econo power supply worked FINE when I removed it. I have actually used it in a couple of different builds, just until a suitable replacement was found. The problem is that this last time I installed it, I get nothing. I mean nothing, no lights, no fans, nothing.
I would like to test this unit to see if the PSU is bad or not. I am just not sure how to go about it. I do not have a test unit to put into this build, I could disassemble one of my other computers, but I spend a lot of time trying to get the wiring just the way I want it. I really don't want to go that route. I do have a multimeter although i have no CLUE how to use it. I know my way around a computer fairly well, and was hoping some one could assist me in testing this machine.http://www.multimeterwarehouse.com/usingamultimeter.htm truenorthHere is another LINK with information about using a multimeter specific to your PSU.

A FRIEND of mine has a Dell 4 way PRINTER that quit printing ONE day when she commanded it to print an e-mail that she received on Yahoo.. Since then it will not print anything. When she tried to un-install it, she got the message that it could not be un-installed because it was waiting to print something, EVEN tho she had disconnected the USB cable. Everything we have attempted to clear the printer memory has failed. Any suggestions? ? ?Reinstall the printers drivers...OKAY ! ! Thanks I will try that. I told her to check the driver status on "device manager" but i am not sure that was very helpful. I have had the message that the device was working properly, but re-installing the drivers did seem to fix the problem. Thanks again JIM

It's been a while.

I am thinking about adding a DVD-ROM drive to our old HP Pavilion 7285 200mhz PC that has Windows 95, but will first need to get an IDE cable that has a slave connector. I had noticed that the bios has support for a secondary IDE slave drive, and the computer has space for one, but there isn't one right now. Do you know if the bios of this old computer will support a DVD-ROM drive? If it does, and the drive can be detected in Windows 95, I might be able to play the Riven DVD on the old computer for once. Given that the Riven DVD requires at least a 166mhz Pentium, I'm sure this is possible. This would be the final add-on for the computer.

At any rate, the drivers for the drive would have to be found after the drive has been gotten, if they don't come with it.How much ram does it have?All IDE cables are the same so just grab another one.
The jumpers are set on pins on the back of the drive.

Your BIOS will probably recognise the drive but getting Win95 to do it is a bit trickier...do a search for OakRom CD drivers...they should do it.Ryan, This link relates to CD and DVD drive replacement/installation in your computer. It does refer to DVD and win95. It is an HP site so it OCCURS to me that if it were NOT possible or advised they would NOT include the reference.I have an old Elite of about that vintage that is on Win 98 and i do have my own installed DVD ROM working in it.http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bph07164&cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&product=59360 truenorthNice Find truenorth ! !Thanks for the replies.


Truenorth, I've actually seen the page you put up a link to. Obviously there's a chance that I might be able to go ahead with this.

The main question is what DVD drive speed would be a good MATCH with a 200mhz computer. Should I try to find an 8x or 12x speed DVD drive? As long as it's not the Raite brand...Don't worry about the speed of the drive. Just fit it. Don't expect sparkling DVD-video playback though, with that CPU! Should be OK for data disks, and you can use it in some more modern hardware when you finally come to your senses.

PS It sounds like you are confused about the meaning of "master" and "slave". The standard IDE provision, even in 1997, (I was actually alive in 1997, unlike most of the people on here!) was two IDE channels. Primary and secondary. Each channel could have a master drive and a slave drive. The best configuration avoided mixing fast and slow drives on the same channel (optical drives are much slower than HDDs) so the best thing to do IMHO is to have the HDD as master on the primary channel (it probably is already) and the DVD drive as master on the secondary channel. So study the jumper placement.

Quote from: patio on September 06, 2009, 04:31:39 PM

All IDE cables are the same so just grab another one.
The jumpers are set on pins on the back of the drive.

Your BIOS will probably recognise the drive but getting Win95 to do it is a bit trickier...do a search for OakRom CD drivers...they should do it.

Patio is wrong. There are IDE cables with only one connector.

Go out tomorrow and see if you can find one of those at a reputable PC shop.

All IDE cables are the same

There are IDE cables with only one connector.

C) Cable select is determined by the drive and/or BIOS not the cable...

can somone sugjest a motherbaord and cpu that
BOOT and USE a isa video card (i know it SOUND crazy)?anything with an ISA slot... pretty WELL up to the Pentium 2 K6-2 will boot from an ISA video card.thanks

hi...

i have a few problems with my computers

1. Desktop
P4 3.2GHz, 3 x 1GB RAM @ 200MHz, VIRTUAL Memory 1024MB to 4096MB, ATI 9650 (dual mon attached)
HDD1: IDE 400GB (virtual mem here, in a 120GB system partition where all the OS and needed apps are stored)
HDD2: SATA 1TB
Monitor 1: 1680x1024
Monitor 2: 1360x768

Problem #1: using CPUZ, sometimes, it runs at 3.2GHz, sometimes, it runs at 2.8GHz... doing the same thing. this value remains constant from startup to shut down. how do i make it 3.2GHz all the way?

Problem #2: it uses high amounts of CPU for the simplest tasks.

it seems like i will have problems with this on every even number installation (lol, i know, it's unscientific), even when i switch to using single monitor. using Google Chrome as an example, it uses ROUGHLY 60% CPU to open it. and the CPU runs at 100% whenever im doing something, and under 10% whenever im not doing something.

Problem #3: right clicking is not smooth - high lag.

whenever i right click on something, i'll have to wait for a sec or two.


Laptop:
Dual Core 1.7GHz, 3 x 1GB RAM @ 333MHz

Problem #1: i have the battery profile set at "High Performance".

whenever i plug in the power, it runs at the full 1.7GHz, but whenever the power is unplugged, it runs at only 1GHz. this speed does not increase when im using CPU intensive apps. how do i make it run at 1.7GHz all the time?


thanks.I suspect both desktop and laptop are using Pentium SpeedStep processors. Clock speed changes depending on the use.

Desktop: probably BIOS setting to turn SpeedStep off or in Windows Control PANEL, Power settings.

Laptop: It's supposed to reduce speed when on battery only. This extends life of the battery. Probably BIOS setting to turn SpeedStep off or in Windows Control Panel, Power settings.Quote from: Computer_Commando on SEPTEMBER 06, 2009, 12:39:21 PM

I suspect both desktop and laptop are using Pentium SpeedStep processors. Clock speed changes depending on the use.

Desktop: probably BIOS setting to turn SpeedStep off or in Windows Control Panel, Power settings.

Laptop: It's supposed to reduce speed when on battery only. This extends life of the battery. Probably BIOS setting to turn SpeedStep off or in Windows Control Panel, Power settings.

uh, i have checked the BIOS of the 2 computers... nope. no such entry...

for the Desktop i cant set the percentage of the CPU, and the Laptop's already set at 100% for both with the power plugged in and without.

I have a gateway T-6815 laptop. The power chord TIP broke and so I purchased a new power supply chord. The computer works fine but WOULD not charge the battery so I BOUGHT a new battery and it still is not charging. The light on the computer that indicates it is charging the battery is not on and the icon at the bottom right of the screen says plugged in not charging. Anyone one have a suggestion of what is wrong
Thank you DanMy FIRST suspect would be the new charger cord does not match the one you replaced.What would be the main specs on the power adapter. I bought a universal one from rocketfish that came with a bunch of different tips. I have the correct tip on it. It is a 90W AC adapter, I looked at the specs for my laptop and it said this
65W output AC Adapter
Automatically adjusts for 100 to 240 VAC, 50 to 60 HZ power I have an old laptop that does the same thing. After much troubleshooting, I have determined that the charging circuit resides on the motherboard. It can't be fixed without replacing it.

Yours probably works the same way.I also noticed that if I use the usb to charge my blackberry phone, sometimes I got a message on the phone saying something about insuffecient power supply through the usb portWindows limits current at 0.50A to USB ports. This has nothing to do with the other issue.

My friend give me a processor "AMD ATHLON (Socket AM2) 2.6 GHz
and i WANT to change my AMD Sempron 2200+1.49GHz will this be compatible?
I mean do my mobo support that socket type?What MBoard ? ?The answer is no, the Sempron you have is a socket A processor, the one you ASKED about is an AM2 socket .Most of the time, you can simply Google your motherboard model number and you will come across tons of WEBSITE which have that information. Simply look under ''specifications'' or ''properties'' or something like this, and you should find what kind of SOCKETS are supported by your motherboard.

Hey,

I got a brand new lenovo desktop for free for signing up for internet. It came with vista home basic. It is incrediably slow. I've tried tweaking things here in there to squeeze as much performance I can out of it. Just small things like start up programs, services, cleaning out the desktop icons, getting rid of norton(which it came with) and installed a new av. But it is still very slow. So I decided to swap out the hd for another hd I have with xp installed on it. The hd the lenovo came with is sata, and the xp hd I have is ide. And it won't boot into the os. I've tried configuring the settings in the bios. But all I get is error messages. Such as os not found, and check cable. I can't write down the full error message because it doesn't stay on the screen long enough. But if you need these error messages I can go back in and get them. I've also tried putting the connectors in every which way possible and nothing. I've made sure the jumper is set on master.

Would anyone be able to help me with this?? You cannot since XP was released simply swap a drive with Windows installed on it and expect it to boot...
The XP HDD is most likely looking for the old machine's drivers and will not boot.Thank you Patio for your reply.

Okay so the problem is with the xp hdd then and not the lenovo. Is there any way I can get this to work. My original plan was to install 2 ide hdds and dual boot xp and linux, so I just tried the one xp hdd to see if I could get it to work. Would I be able to just install 1 ide hdd with linux installed on it?

I'm sorry if I'm not REALLY understanding this. But with my older dell computer which came with xp installed on it, I was able to install a second hdd(xp) ,that my friend gave me, and dual boot between the two no problem.Patio is correct, when XP is installed, it installs the only driver needed for the current chipset, and then changes the config file to load those drivers at start up.

That is because they were probably both the same chipset type, eg a XP installations on a VIA chipset with hyperion 4-in-1 drivers installed would more then likely work in a machine with another VIA chipset supported by the hyperion driver.

However this time it is OBVIOUSLY different.

You could try an run a repair installation with an available XP DISK, as this will re-install chipset drivers.

Or...there was a guide on how to remove the chipset drivers on the net for moving motherboards without install somewhere...
Well according to this, this should work, I don't remember the guide looking like this, but it should work.

Remember, you need to be booting off the XP installation you want to change.

QUOTE

Move Win XP hard drive to a new motherboard
This tutorial gives you the explanations how to move the hard drive which already has Win XP installed on it to a whole new motherboard.


If you ever happen to need this, read this tutorial and get the problem fixed.

First, you need to go to " Control Panel", choose the "System Icon" and double click on it. When opened, go to "Hardware" tab and click on "Device Manager" button where you get a list of various options. Find IDE ATA/ATAPI CONTROLLERS option and expand the tab. Do the right click on the 1st controller and choose the "Update driver" function, then go to "Install from a list or specific location" tab and click "NEXT" button.

Now, the last thing before the installing initiation, a new window appears where you have to choose "Don`t search. I will choose the driver to install " option and again, click "NEXT" button.After that, check "Standard Dual Channel Pci Ide Controller" and click "NEXT" button.
After this operation is being completed, your computer should be able to install the Standard Controller and then you`re supposed to reboot it. Make sure the Standard Controller is installed completely, shut down your computer, remove the hard drive and you got it installed on the new motherboard.

the moderation on the ling is terrible

缓和在石楠是可怕的

缓和在石楠是可怕的

i have an AOC 19mvwk FLAT screen monitor. it was given to me by a man who told me the power went out, and the monitor never came back on. when you power it on the screen flickers faintly, and the power light flashes slowly. when connected to a computer it flashes more quickly, but the screen doesn't flicker. i took it apart and there is no burnt smell or any FRIED capacitors. does anyone have a clue what might be wrong or ANYTHING i can try? thanks!did you try banging it on the TOP alittle?top, bottom, back, sides...

Hi everyone, i have a very weird problem that i hope someone will knew how to solve.

I just finished building a new pc. The specs are as follow:

CORE i7 920
Assus p6t
6 gig ocz 1600mhz
corsair 750 watt psu
Asus eah4890 video card
1 tb western digital


im running windows 7


The problem is whenever the computer is on, it is very sensitive to movement. If i just KNOCK(very LIGHT) on the case, the computer will die. After that, the computer will not boot at all. The only way to make it bootable again is by resetting the cmos(i did this by resetting the jumper on the mobo), then it will boot again.

I was wondering what is CAUSING this problem. Anybody encountered this before? I will need to dissamble and assemble it all again if i want to know the problem. Were all MBoard standoffs PUT in place when installing the board to the case ? ?

Getting a BLUE screen on boot with: Prob. detected windows is shut down now to prevent damage.

The screen mesage informs me to Run chkdsk/F but I can't even get to a command prompt window.

Yes I restarted computer in Safe Mode, previous config, last known config., Win. normally etc. and always get the blue screen.

the 2 drives that i have are wd-1600 160 gb internal drives.

We have had boot problems before with this computer and I have usually gotten around that by doing a CHKDISK after boot.

Does this look to be a HD problem or Windows



What OS?Sorry, Win XP Media Center.Okay. Boot to the XP CD and choose the first repair option. That will take you to the recovery console. Once there, run chkdsk /rThere are very few if any Media Center Edition CD's out there if at all......and no SP can be SLIPSTREAMED to them, if any repair is needed.1. Blue Screen. If it's a Blue Screen of Death (BSoD), Microsoft is trying to tell you what the issue is. Post the "exact" STOP code and hex number string along with any error message string and/or "responsible" module.Stop Code:0x0000024(0x0090302,0x8AB41EF0)On our second comp. got the same stop message this morning!

0x0000009c (0x000000000,0xBA340050,DXB200000,0x000000800) RE: NEW hardware stop error.

Then a light went on in my fuzzy brain recalling that my son has moved his iPod Touch to this second comp. this morning.

Luckily I could restart the computer and boot properly.

Getting him to charge his iPodTouch only via a wall outlet.

"There are very few if any Media Center Edition CD's out there if at all..." I have 2 CD's that are for Media Center that came with my DigitalStorm Machine. Prob. is that now I have no boot CD.

The DS comp. has always had a bad circuit on the MB (AsusRampage) and one of the dual drives has clearly some issues based on the switch-out testing that I did yesterday. Guess I'll take the DS to a comp. rebuild store in Ohio here on Tues. and have them matchup hardware and software for what I need done. Hey, I have a job and family too!

Thanks for the help so far people.1. Stop Code 0x00000024. Select "24: NTFS File System" from left hand column of following link for more information: Troubleshooting Windows Stop Messages.

2. Windows Media Center CDs. Quote from: Thomas Bailey on September 06, 2009, 10:14:11 AM

"There are very few if any Media Center Edition CD's out there if at all..." I have 2 CD's that are for Media Center that came with my DigitalStorm Machine. Prob. is that now I have no boot CD.

I had a VIRTUAL disk program (don't remember which), I uninstalled it and now my nero tells me I need "burning rights".
I tried reinstalling the virtual disk program (magic iso - I remembered:), but that didn't fix it.
I installed Burning Studio - it told me I didn't have a compatible drive.
I reinstalled Nero - it told me I needed "burning rights"
I've tried uninstalling my burner and letting xp find it again when it boots, etc. but to no avail.
BTW I am the administrater on the machine, so the burning rights issue shouldn't be an issue, so maybe that's a clue.
It'll play dvds and cds it won't burn them cause something's making the burn SIDE of the drive invisible.
My "device manager" tells me everything is there.
Can anyone TELL me what I need to doYou forgot and remembered the name of the program between the FIRST and second sentence of your post?

Anyway, see if this thread helps at all: http://forum.my.nero.com/index.php?showtopic=2412ADG, Don't know if this is universal or just me but when i click on your link this is what i get:

IPS Driver Error
There appears to be an error with the database.
You can try to refresh the page by clicking here
truenorth
P.S. Clicking "here" does nothing.I'm getting that now too, though it worked this morning. Let's try a different thread: http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r22570323-Nero-and-UltraISO-tell-me-i-have-no-rights-to-burn-to-diskThat seems to be a good link--i am getting the "Broadband" site OK.truenorthThe other thread also had a direct link to Nero's support. If you can't get it fixed here you MIGHT want to try there.

I have two computers. Yesterday I hooked up my newer pc to my old ones monitor/keyboard etc to diagnose a seperate internet issue. I REALLY wish I hadn't...

I had to use a dvi to vga adapter to plug into the graphics card as the old PC's monitor only has fixed VGA. When it booted it asked me to load new monitor drivers which I did. It didnt help me diagnose the problem so I took the PC back upstairs to my new PC and monitor...

BUT when I hooked my new PC (Asus P5Q Pro Turbo with msi 8600GT-OC) back up to my DVI Relisys TL795-RU monitor with the DVI cable it gives a terrible green/yellow garbled display with lines and flickering. Also it doesn't display anything on the initial post boot screen until the XP logo or if i press del and wait for bios to show (both garbled and green).

However, it works fine if i use a a vga cable with dvi adaper in the graphics card as I did on the other P.C

What's going on?? I dont want to have to use VGA as the display is not very clear. It seems as if the card has been altered to VGA and doesnt want to switch back. I've tried uninstalling nvidia and monitor drivers but it doesn't help. I think the problem is deeper than that because the messed up graphics happens even in the in bios.

I don't currently have other DVI monitor or cables to check but i'm curious whether the problem is with my graphics card or the the monitor or even windows although I get the problem in the bios too.

below is an image of the screen, it flickers constantly. When i plug in the dvi cable to it takes maybe 10-20 seconds to get this screen, the monitor seems to try to be trying to find the right settings



Thanks for any help.
Quote from: iainchat on September 08, 2009, 07:07:50 AM

When it booted it asked me to load new monitor drivers which I did.

I have a Fujitsu-Siemens Amilo laptop (running on XP, 2.0GHz processor), and the screen no longer works - when I switch it on, the power light comes on and I can hear it starting up but nothing APPEARS on the screen. I have also tried connecting it in to an external MONITOR but this doesn't work either. There are some files on the laptop that I need to get hold of and I was wondering if there is any way of connecting another computer up to it so I can retrieve these (the other machine is a Packard BELL Easynote, also running on XP, 1.3 GHz processor, 496Mb RAM). Also if you have any suggestions for other things I could try to make the screen come on that would be great.Grab one of these:



2.5" laptop to IDE converter...About 8 Bucks at any PC store.
This will allow you to hook up the laptop drive to any working DESKTOP machine to retrieve your data...Brilliant - thanks very much for that.No problem...and Welcome Aboard !

From what you have said the computer will be used for, the computer wouldn't have to be a top-of-the-line computer.
If I were in your situation, I would just head over to the computer store and buy a pre-built desktop computer.
Nothing too fancy. Perhaps a 2.2GHz Processor, 1GB RAM, Integrated graphics.

Quote

The choice will be Windows. Should she buy a PC Tower? Mini Tower? or Laptop?

Nothing too fancy. Perhaps a 2.2GHz Processor, 1GB RAM, Integrated graphics.

However, if your computer course you purchased is based on Windows Vista or a specific package of Microsoft Office, then get whatever is in the course.

what does that mean?

:)Good morning all. I have a friend who is 78 and
she is going to buy her first computer however, what should she buy?
My friend will use her computer for: Banking, BPay, Food Shopping, surfing the Internet, email, and word. My friend is totally inexperienced, but due to all the new rules regarding the cost as to paying bills, shopping convenience, and replies to business email etc. she has decided the decision has been taken out of her hands. Should she have Dial-Up or
Broadband?
Your thoughts plus suggestions will be appreciated.
Thank you.
Regards
cul1649

My father has mastered the pc and started at the age of 78.....six years later he's a whiz.....I got him involved despite his reservations and now he loves it.......mental alertness and manual dexterity are terrific side effects......His first pc was a mattel Barbie computer, from a flea market that came with Win98......he has upgraded twice since and now runs XP on a P4.
Choose desktop over laptop...they tend to spend long hours getting to know the machine and comfort and eye strain are factors better addressed with a desktop and a 19" LCD....the full sized keyboard also helps to ease the frustration of non typers hitting the wrong keys.....Choose an OS that the people around her use, so support is on the same page.......Broadband is a great plus....when you reach a certain age, you don't like waiting for anything.

I bought the Acer aspire m7720 2 months ago and the specs are
windows vista home premium
i7 processor
6gb ram
geforce gt230

Yesterday I shut down my computer and WENT to sleep. Today when I tried to switch it on, it doesnt start up.
There is sound of running inside the CPU casing, my mouse(razer diamondback) is showing light which means it's working, and I could press Num Lock it could be turned off or on, as well as CAPS Lock and Scroll Lock. It seems to be running fine, but my monitor is not showing anything. But I don't think it is the monitor causing the problem as I could not hear the sound of windows starting/logging in.

edit* The screen was blank all the time right after it was switched on. And for acer computers, it doesnt show the BIOS and stuffs when u switch on the computer. It will only show the Acer logo, which is not showing now.

a little help is appreciated, thanks Does that graphics card have outputs for dual monitors? Did you make any changes in your graphics card control panel last time it was running? If dual monitor, try plugging the monitor cable into the secondary output connection on the card. I'm thinking maybe the 'primary/secondary' monitor setting got switched in the graphics control panel and those settings didn't TAKE effect until shut down/restart.
Just a guess. HOPE it helps. omg great! that worked! it seems like it really switched =/
but i dont remember changing any settings

thanks for the help lectro
No problem. Have FUN!!!

Hi all, I have a custom built computer, fairly new. Everything has been working fantastic until yesterday. The computer was in a "standby" mode, so when I moved the mouse it tried to bring the picture back up on the monitor. I noticed, in the very brief time it remained on the screen, that the font size was very large, as if the resolution had been reset back to 800 x 600, which it had not. Immediately the screen went blank and I got the message "No video signal". At first I thought the monitor had gone kaput so I dug one out and hooked it up without success. Next I installed a new video card, also without success. All of the cables are hooked up correctly and the card is seated correctly. LISTENING to the "beeps" in sounds as if Windows Vista is loading normally, just can't tell for sure without a picture. Also replaced the video cable. Any other suggestions would be very much appreciated at this point. THANKS in advance for any ideas of help you can provide me with.
Do you get any image on the screen at all? Like the BIOS screen?

This is a long shot, but you could TRY clearing CMOS.can you see it during POST?No, there is no image at all. Absolutely nothing throughout the boot up process.Well, good news, as the problem is solved! I did not realize that I had integrated video on the mobo, so I hooked my monitor up to that. Lo and behold it booted up just fine, although in VGA mode, but it looked just GREAT to me, at that point.
So, just out of interest, I tried hooking it back up to the new video card and it also booted right up?! I'm still pretty CONFUSED by all this, as I had tried this same thing repeatedly the day before, without the integrated video step, however.
However, as long as it is working now, I'm happy.
Thanks to those that replied.

I have two computers , this ONE (the new macbook) and then my desktop is a HP pavilion. The hp has been acting really weird and one day I turn it on and this weird clicking noise and screeching noise greet me. I finally got the idea to PUT the system reboot disk in and when I did it SAID " No hard drive FOUND. PC recovery cannot be CONTINUED! Press any key to continue" I now have the cover off the tower and am looking at all the wires thinking " what have I gotten myself into" Any help ? (I am computer illiterate so please dumb it down for my sake)Oh and I have windows vista and the computer is about 3-4 years old if that helps anyPut the cover back on.

Clicking and screeching noises are not good. I'm guessing the HD is shot. If you want to make sure, download the test utility from your hd manufacturer and run it - but my guess based on your audio description is you'll have to replace the drive.how do I download the thing?

I installed 4GB Ram but its only showing 3GB Ram

Windows XP Professional (32 bit)

Foxconn 45CMX
Kingston 2GB Ram X 2 666
2.55MHz Dual Core Processor
160GB HDD
Nvidia Geforce 8500 GT - 512MB
Unfortunately with a 32 bit operating system all that it will show is 3.25 GB's of ram, you need a 64 bit operating system to show the full 4 GB's.yes...but i installed Windows XP Professional 64 bit (Service Pack 1)
but only showing 3GB Ram .

(Sorry for my english)Windows XP Professional (32 bit) supports up to 4Gb of RAM. However, if you put 4 Gb, it will only recognize approximately 3Gb. Please read this one: Memory SUPPORT and Windows Operating SystemsCan you please specify the exact OS you are using? Is it 32-bit or 64-bit? Please confirm.Sorry your first post said 32 bit.
You could always try adding service pack 2 .
http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyId=893FD6C0-6283-44C3-BB84-B2F0315B2AE6&displaylang=enQuote

2.55MHz Dual Core Proccessor

It's not really a limitation of the OS but rather of the architecture, I believe.

I have Dell Dimension 5150 that was PURCHASED in Dec. 2005. I have Windows XP operating system. The COMPUTER sometimes was shutting itself off or would go to restart. I was able to restart without problem most of the time. But sometimes it could not be restarted. The switch that turns the computer on would start blinking (yellow / orange) when turned on and stopped right there. I had this problem many months back and my neighbor (he is not a computer engineer but is a software developer) told me to unplug all peripherals including the inner CD drive. Then "drain all charge" by unplugging power and pushing the start button for a few seconds. Plug power back on and start and start plugging peripheral starting with keyboard and mouse since I would need them to start the computer. I was able to start the computer using this procedure. For the last few days the problem had occurred many times and I am having problem with this procedure ALSO. I was able to start a few times by going through that process.

My neighbor also suggested defragging my computer. So when I was able to start the computer I did a fresh virus scan and did defragging also. It took me a total of 5 or 6 restarts to go thru the entire process. Every time I was afraid that the m/c will be really/fully dead since the m/c went down while doing these processes. No virus was detected. Now I cannot start the computer alt all. All that HAPPENS when I go through the above procedure is that the switch that turns the computer on STARTS blinking (yellow / orange)

If you can help in any way, please do.
Thanks.
First question is have you opened and cleaned the pc in the four years you've had it?......If not open the case and clean out all the dust and dirt inside.

If the inside is not dirty, consider swapping in a known good power supply.The computer has been cleaned.

The lights still show up including the main switch which blinks when turned on. Is it still possible that the power supply has gone bad?

Thanks.Yup, absolutely.......slight variances in DC power will cause your symptoms while allowing lights and fans to work normally.

To add to this from the Dell5150 manual...

IF THE POWER LIGHT IS BLINKING AMBER — The computer is receiving electrical power, but an
internal power problem might exist.
• Ensure that the voltage selection switch is set to match the AC power at your location (if applicable).
• Ensure that the processor power cable is securely connected to the system board (see "System Board
Components

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim5150/en/om/WD846A02.pdfThanks
MGRG1959clear cmos might helpQuote from: smeezekitty on August 16, 2009, 02:10:16 PM

clear cmos might help

the bios can take up bad settings and cause intermitten boots
it happened to me
never had a blinking light though

has anybody ever thought that the new graphics card may be ether overheating
or malfunctioning causing tee system to SHUTDOWN?
do you happen to have onboard video?
if so enable it in the bios and remove the video card
if not do you still have the old one?
if so try it insteadits ok xD
hopefuly with this new heat SINK my cooling set up will work more efficiently
i should be getting it on mondaytried with the 8600 it used to have
and it doesnt have onboard video
same thing happanedYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY that heat sink worked GREAT
i played two levels of left 4 dead without any BLACKOUT ~!!!!! =D
thank you to everyone who helped
this is a great after market heat sink
im never using stock heat sinks on gaming rigs again ^^;;
again THANK YOU!!!!
*GAMES some more*
btw it was a arctic cooling freezer 64 pro it works wonders

I can't SEEM to get a break when it comes to Hard drives.

I was intending to clone my master 40gb drive to a partition on my 250gb slave drive, but before I did it I wanted to defragment the F: drive.

But EVERY time I try to defrag it, it starts making a nasty grinding noise and then an error box comes up in the bottom right of the SCREEN (screenshot below)

The drive disappears from the system completely until I turn the system off and then turn it on again.

I have also FOUND I get the same error when I try to download things onto it as well.

Does anyone know if there is a way I can fix this?

Screenshot of diskeeper and error message (note that only the C drive shows in diskeeper, and not the F drive)

I think you should concentrate on removing all data that means anything to you as quickly as you can...forget about any defrag now...your primary concern is to save your data......Back it up and CONFIRM it is backed up......Once you've done this run the manufacturers diagnostic program and confirm the drive UNSTABLE.......remember to save data first since the stress of the diagnostic could trash the drive completely.Why are you trying to defragment your F drive, is that not your optical drive?

Please tell us what your drive structure consists of.your drive is probubly going out
backup all data as soon as posQuote from: smeezekitty on August 07, 2009, 10:04:20 PM

your drive is probubly going out
backup all data as soon as pos

Don't give out advice that you have no backing for.

i have a harddrive that is developed by lacie...i contacted their customer support but its FULL of insipid indians who dont know nothing

i recently found this site and im hoping to find a person that can help!

my 160GB external harddrive has a corrupted file in there... somewhere...and im trying to delete all the folders...it says the I/o operation could not have been completed because the service timed out or something...

what im saying is help me pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeis it registry or what?try ccleaner
http://www.ccleaner.com/
what os you use,google the problemYou want to delete every thing? good old windows disc can help you out there ! Guys read the OP's post before spitting out random advice.Quote from: dj prototype on September 11, 2007, 08:02:32 PM

my 160GB external harddrive has a corrupted file in there... somewhere...and im trying to delete all the folders...it says the I/o operation could not have been completed because the service timed out or something...

Dell - Dimension 4550 Series, BIOS Version: A05, Service Tag: CFB5S21

I didn't own this COMPUTER previously and the BIOS is a bit buggy, so I'm gonna go ahead and start from scratch with a BIOS update.

This is the first time, but I know enough to know you get the update from the Dell manufacturer SITE, you gotta do it via USB/Floppy/CD if you can't do it through the OS, and there's a risk that you can corrupt the BIOS which would screw up the whole motherboard.

I tracked the solution down to this link right here....
http://support.dell.com/support/downloads/driverslist.aspx?c=us&cs=19&l=en&s=dhs&catid=1&hidlang=en&hidos=WW1&impid=-1&os=WW1&osl=EN&servicetag=CFB5S21&SystemID=DIM_PNT_P4_4550&TabIndex=

But I can't say with confidence if this is the download I need to upgrade the BIOS. I don't know if A08 is the BIOS upgrade or a completely new BIOS altogether, you know?


Just go to that site and enter your service tag number. Go to drivers & downloads page and if there is a bios listed download and install it. Directions for installation will be included.What makes you think the BIOS is buggy? What kinds of problems does the computer have?

Flasihing BIOS should be a last resort. If the BIOS flash goes wrong, it can cause more problems than it will fix.If he's at 05 and the latest is 08 he should flash it. Dell's bios upgrades are foolproof as long as the (very brief) process isn't interrupted.The download is an .exe. Run the .exe and it unzips a bunch of data and a setup to a specified folder.

It says "BIOS Upgrade Dell Dimension 4550 A05".
I'm still unsure as to whether or not A08 is the update, or a completely different BIOS....I understand if it's not the right update, like an update for a different BIOS, it will screw up the motherboard.

....It is however the only download that was given for the Dell Dimension 4550 BIOS updates, so I imagine this is what I need.They are all "new" bios'". Don't WORRY about it, if it isn't the right bios for your system it won't install.Big success, and it was pretty fast.

Thank you very much for your help.GOOD. Glad it worked. (I realize I had nothing to do with it.)

It's good to see that the "newer" versions of BIOS have some safeguards built in to help protect computers.
Quote from: aaaaaaaaaa on August 25, 2009, 10:13:20 AM

Big success, and it was pretty fast.

Thank you very much for your help.

Hi,
I am having trouble booting up my computer. This is an old Gateway, but still in good condition. Everything has been working fine until about 3 weeks ago. I tried to uninstall my operating system to reinstall it. I had too much stuff on it so I wanted to get rid of some stuff. So when I tried to reinstall it, for some reason, when I hit the power button on my hard drive, it goes straight to the 1st SCREEN and it does not move at all. This is what I'm seeing on the very 1st screen:

GATEWAY

INTEL BOOT MENU: <F10>
INSIDE BIOS SETTING: <F2>

I hope this makes sense. I've tried hitting F10 about 5 times, nothing happens. I tried hitting F2 a few times, nothing happens. I tried to Ctrl+Alt+Del a few times, nothing happens. It just stays on this screen. It's like something is holding it up from moving forward from this screen. I really hope this makes sense to you and I hope anyone can HELP me. Any suggestions will be very helpful.
If you're using a USB KEYBOARD try it with a PS2 keyboard.

I have an HP C4280 which has suddenly DECIDED not to print. When I try to print anything, I first get a MESSAGE that it is aligning cartridges. It then prints out an "alignment page," tells me to place the page on the scanner and PRESS OK. It then says it is scanning the page, and next it says "alignment page not detected." I'm using WINDOWS XP Home. Thank you for your help. Have you tried uninstalling the ALL IN ONE printer/scanner driver an reinstalling?Quote from: block_head on August 24, 2009, 04:40:41 AM

Have you tried uninstalling the ALL IN ONE printer/scanner driver an reinstalling?

Ok, heres my question. I have recently been given the above laptop by a friend to see if i can get it working again. It will not boot. The power button iluminates, the fan works, the CD rom makes a noise, nothing else.
Anyway, i have SPENT some time looking on web and have tried a number of old wives tales before opening up the laptop, to find what i think is no RAM. I have downloaded the SERVICE MANUAL and this also says that the location where i have an empty RAM port, should have RAM in it.
I went back to the owner who says, that no one has been in the laptop and it just stopped working.
I have took the full back off the cover and the RAM has not worked loose, its not in the laptop moving about.
My question to everyone is in 3 parts...

1 - is there a second RAM built in to the laptop which i may have overlooked?
2 - would lack of RAM CAUSE my symptoms?
3 - is my friend telling porkies?
I vote for # 3...im thinking the same.

Would the computer have these symptoms with no RAM? Most PC's will not boot properly nor POST for that matter without RAM...duh it loads t he bios code into ram to POST
no ram no boot
infact read my post about the compaq presario no post
----edit----
the exact topic i meant was no post on (old) compaq pc This was already stated...thanks both of you. My concern was more that i had nothing at all, and have read that no RAM = bleeping noises and error messages. Thanks though, will look into a new RAMTravel to Crucial.com and enter the MACHINE specs...that will tell you what to shop for.OK, just found a further manual and have located a second ram (top RAM). so unfortunatly question 3 was wrong.

Is it likely to still be a currupt RAM? or can it be other things?

I need HELP with these two PCI INTERFACES I don't think I have them down right

P.C.I
66 MHz
1
32 BITS
266 MBps

and then

P.C.I
33 MHz
1.
64 Bits
266 MBps

were am I off
What is it that you want to know?
They are bothe the same but one has 32 Bits and the other has 64 Bits but they both have the same Data Transfer how can this be???

I think I MAY have copyed it wrong???the 64-bit one is half the speed.

Is there a good way to check and make SURE that my PSU is putting out the power it is supposed to be putting out? I wrote the "no video SIGNAL" feed and I did some research and found that a "no beep" from the computer could mean a PSU issue. I would greatly appreciate any help. ThanksThere are PSU testers out there...
HOWEVER the cheapest and easiest solution would be to borrow one of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there overnight and do some testing...
If the symptoms go away it's the PSU...A good PSU tester may cost as much as a low end PSU.
But if you still want to get one, check out Amazon. They have lower prices that some of the other stores that sell PSU testers. Thanks, I will check that out.you could get a voltage meter but it would take a while to learn to use itI take it you mean, multimeter. Thanks, I decided not to be lazy and looked at the schmatics for the motherboard and the PSU. Should be able to get something that way, I was just looking for an easier route.not going to be too much of one, sorry

My Dell has been fairly RELIABLE but today when I powered it up, it wouldn't start. Well, it tries but then messages me that it can't find the drive. I went into setup and the driver order says it can't recognize a hard drive at all. Does this make sense?I'm running XPare you sure the jumper is plugged into the jumper pins if it is the right spot

make sure everythings plugged in correct

here's is what a jumper PIN looks like
http://www.doublehammer.com/clinic/images/jumpers.jpgWell, first of all, it's run for years without anything falling out/loose.... and I can't TELL that anything's come loose when I look and FEEL around the wires.Run hard drive diagnostics: http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287
Make sure, you select tool, which is appropriate for the brand of your hard drive.
Depending on the program, it'll create bootable floppy, or bootable CD.
If downloaded file is of .iso type, use ImgBurn: http://www.imgburn.com/ to burn .iso file to a CD (select "WRITE image file to disc" option), and make the CD bootable.

NOTE. If your hard drive is made by Toshiba, unfortunately, you're out of luck, because Toshiba doesn't provide any diagnostic tool.Or boot to your XP CD and choose the first Repair Option (that will take you to the recovery console). Once there, run chkdsk /r

so I just did an OS format on my Aspire 4930..
I formatted Vista to XP because of obvious reasons.

but, after I installed all my drivers PROPER,
everytime at startup, my monitor would blink once to black,
but only about one second, even less..

it would not blink again for the rest of the session though.
but, when I uninstalled the VGA INTEL driver to see if it had any effect,
the monitor didn't blink. it seems that the driver is the problem, yeah?

but I TRIED installing two versions and they're just the same.
what I want to ask is:

1) will it have any long-term effect?
2) is the monitor adjusting to anything; refresh rate, etc?
3) can I repair this?

thanks very much in advance..TRY the drivers from the MBoard manuf. instead of the intel ones...

hi,

my computer (an acer aspire 5100 LAPTOP running on vista) currently does not have a working sound card. it was damaged by the great coffee spill of 2008 and i didn't have the funds to replace when i initially had it looked at. i still don't have the money to buy a new one, honestly, but i need sound for school reasons and am trying to figure out what affordable options are out there.

i have looked into various external sound cards and adapters but i am not sure if these would actually produce sound or if they are mostly used to enhance existing sound systems. i have also considered buying a new card and installing it myself (quite a frightening idea but i am a decent learner) but i am clueless as to what i should be looking for.

any suggestions or information on this issue would be greatly appreciated.hmm, actually, I find it strange that a coffee spill would be able to damage the sound circuitry in your PC but leave everything else untouched. Is it possible that something else may be causing it to not function? Say, broken speakers and/or missing drivers?


External Sound cards do NOT require a working sound system- they are, in fact, their very own sound system. the "sound blaster Extigy" for example. The main disadvantages of an external sound system are cost, and of course the fact that it's yet another device to maneuver about your desktop


An Internal Sound card, which you also are considering, is both cheaper and more space-saving- not to mention often more powerful then an external solution. And aside from the removal/replacement of the case, It's actually quite easy .

Scratch the above- laptop sound circuitry is built in and cannot be replaced.


If your willing though it would be prudent to investigate the current sound system, as I previously said it seems odd that a coffee spill, or any sort of accident could cause damage localized only to the sound card, without damaging other components- my personal suspicion may be that the drivers are not installed or another configuration issue.I agree with BC here, A missing driver seems to be what's causing the issue here.

Open Device Manager by clicking the Start button, clicking Control Panel, clicking System and Maintenance, and then clicking Device Manager.

Once in there, are there and devices with a yellow triangle or red X on top of any hardware icon?

Is it possible just the internal speakers are damaged only? Can you plug headphones/speakers into the laptop to get sound?

Otherwise, if you are quite sure there is no WAY you can get sound out of it, there are some cheaper USB sound cards out there for the general home user. most of them just provide a speaker out, and mic in, and are about the same size as a largeish flash drive.I was convinced that it was just a driver issue as well at first. Something similar had happened in the past when I installed a Vista update. But it just kept telling me that the driver was fine. Then, a couple days after I noticed the sound was not working, I BEGAN hearing an alien-esque noise coming from the speakers. That's when I brought it to someone. Thinking maybe it was the speakers (even though headphones and external speakers weren't working either...I was hopeful..) After having it for over 2 weeks, he called to tell me that he had taken the machine apart and discovered corrosion on one tiiiiny wire or soldered area in the sound card itself. He said he would not be able to fix it, unless I paid him $250 to install a new card. But you're saying that's impossible? Hm...ha..

When I go to the device manager it tells me that my sound system is functioning properly and that my driver is all nice and up to date. There are no red x's or yellow triangles. I also do not get any sound whatsoever when I plug in speakers or headphones.

Thanks for info on the external stuff though. I have a whole 30 bucks to my name (WOO!). Hopefully I'll be able to pick up at least a little noise for it. Quote

He said he would not be able to fix it, unless I paid him $250 to install a new card.

Have a look in services and see if Windows Audio is enabled.

In the Run box type services.msc....make sure Windows Audio status is listed as started.

Have a look in services and see if Windows Audio is enabled.

In the Run box type services.msc....make sure Windows Audio status is listed as started.

That doesn't make any sense- the sound circuitry in a laptop is built-in, not on a separate card, so I'm not sure if he's trying to pull a fast one or what.

try downloading Everest Home, run it, save the report, and attach/post in your next reply (up to Debug - PCI).

Multimedia:
Audio Adapter High Definition Audio Controller [NoDB]

$30 Bucks will get you a decent new sound card...i'D stay away from eBay though.

$30 Bucks will get you a decent new sound card...i'D stay away from eBay though.

http://www.acer.ca/acer/service.do?LanguageISOCtxParam=en&miu10einu24.current.attN2B2F2EEF=3751&sp=page15e&ctx2.c2att1=27&miu10ekcond13.attN2B2F2EEF=3751&CountryISOCtxParam=CA&ctx1.att21k=1&CRC=719687231

Ok, I have just done that again.
What happens when you start the computer without the MOUSE and keyboard connected?

Does it post, does it make it to the login screen?

Do you get an error?considering its not ps/2 rather its USB
it should POST fine
but give it a tryHello,

THANK you to everyone who helped me out. YESTERDAY evening I was USING my roommate's computer and borrowing wireless from our neighbor, and the Internet became suddenly unavailable. I wanted to touch base and let you know what was wrong.

The computer had a virus which was block the drivers. I had my hard drive wiped and reinstalled everything and now the computer is WORKING perfectly.

Thanks again for all of the help!Glad to here you sorted it out
Come back any time.

I have a SIS 661 FX/GX Mirage Graphics(128mb) card in a computer running Windows XP (SP3). The screen flickers to some degree. Changed REFRESH rates with some but little response. To scroll a web page is jumpy, to move a open window with mouse is jumpy, and finally the aspect ratio is off. The PIXELS are either wider or shorter than normal GIVING me a STRETCHED out hoizontal image. There is no software interface for the card and playing with Windows gives me little. Any tips will be appreciated.

Uppon booting up my Dell Inspiron 1501 laptop (WINDOWS VISTA) I get the FOLLOWING error message:

WARNING: The battery cannot be identified. This system will be unable to charge the battery.
Press Any KEY to continue.
Press 2 tims to enter SETUP
Press and Any Key to enter Boot Menu

I hit a key and the laptop boots up and works fine either on power or just on the battery. How can I eliminate this annoying message?

THANKS.

I have a motherboard that supports 24 pin but i have a power supply that is 20 pin and has a 12v plug to go into the appropriate place on the motherboard.. but when i plug in the 20 pin into my mobo it leaves 4 pins left over.. Im wondering how i can solder one together.. I have bunch of power supplies that i can break off and solder in..

I have extra CDROM power plugs i do not use that are coming off the power supply, could i solder it and plug it into the remaining 4 pins that the 20 pin power supply connection leaves out.. and if so then how..

What is the extra 4 pins that are left out of the motherboard for??
I read somewhere its for the PCI-E Graphics card so you dont need to PROVIDE external power to the card.. True??
you cant just solder it in
it may work without the four pinsBuy the correct power supply for your board20-Pin to 24-Pin ATX Power Supply Adapter Converter Cable
Quote from: smeezekitty on August 23, 2009, 05:08:59 PM

you cant just solder it in
it may work without the four pins

20-Pin to 24-Pin ATX Power Supply Adapter Converter Cable

Can you switch hard drives from one COMPUTER to ANOTHER? I have one that my wife and i USE all the time and i have a another computer that has a better chipset in it and i'd like to just take it from our old and put in my new one. But when i tried it didnt load it, why not?Because any Windows VERSION since WinME cannot simply be swapped from one machine to another and expected to work...
This is by design because Bill Gates wanted it that way...
Tell us what your goals are for this as there are a few different approaches...
If it's just DATA retrieval there are ways...
If you want this drive to work on the new machine there are other approaches...

Let us know.

I have a computer with XP this computer is about 5 years old. it shuts down on its own then has a continue beeping to it. what can cause this. is it the CPU or maybe power supply. how do i go about diagnosing this problem.

Thanks,
FonWhat BIOS has your computer got?.Try to reset you CMOS. this is done by MOVING a little small plastic head called jumper, located oftest just below your graphiccard(check MB manual otherwise) to the right(oftest) After 30seconds move it back and try boot up again.

Also make sure no dust or anything is preventing the system from cooling, since many computers shut down themselves when they are too hot.Thanks for the quick replies, i TOOK my air COMPRESSOR and BLEW out all the dust under the fan on top of the cpu. this seems to fix the problem. I will have to see how it works as time goes on.download speedfan and port your temps

In a hurry and not paying attention I installed a graphics card before INSTALLING driver now I cant get windows to start up . I tried in safe mode and at last know setting and nothing . HELP !!!!Remove the card PHYSICALLY and re-start...
Installing a piece of HARDWARE should not prevent Windows from starting...

Any issues prior to this ? ?After realizing why there wasnt a picture I removed the graphics card and connected the monitor back to original place and thats when start up screen was there . Everytime I try to start windows it will run Windows start up screen and after a few seconds it starts all over again.any modern card would boot even in safe mode
because safe mode uses very old VGA
640x480x4bpp
so unless your new card is an EGA
i'd say somethings wrong
can you try a difrent slot?
reseat the card
i just relised soemthing : you dont think you disabled onboard video in bioscant use different slot , its an AGP.And by the way, you're supposed to install the card before installing the driverWell thats what I did and there was no picture on monitorturn off onboard video on bios
ok , I'll try thatQuote from: patio on August 17, 2009, 11:22:20 AM

Any issues prior to this ? ?

Well thats what I did and there was no picture on monitor

and doubled the pc's memory.

I'm sure it won't HURT...UNLESS you USED a vacuum...

I am building a video editing machine to run Sony Movie STUDIO Pro 9. The machine consists of:
an Antec P180B tower with water cooling added
an Antec 550 watt POWER supply
an ASUS mobo P5W DH-Deluxe with Wi Fi
a Lite-On CD burner, DVD burner and blu-ray (SATA) drive
4 SATA WD 320 gb, 3 ghz drives (2 in a RAID 0 set)
1 IDE 160 gb drive for software
2 X1950 ATI Radeon graphics cards in Crossfire
1 Rosewell flash card reader
1 1.4 mb floppy disk
The CPU is a Pentium D 3 ghz with a 800 mhz FSB
The RAM is OCZ 8 gb DDR 6400

Everything works first crack out of the box. While I was downloading new DRIVERS from Creative Labs and ATI, This wierd thing happened. I went into the BIOS screen to set up the RAID and found my keyboard was not working. It works for three seconds after the BIOS screen pops up and then the "NUM LOCK" led comes on and the board freezes up as if I had pulled the plug.
It's pretty hard to set up without a keyboard. I must have caused the problem while mucking around in the BIOS. Can anyone help me straighten it out?USB keyboard, or the old-fashioned ps/2 plugin keyboard?Either one. I have both types. PS/2 is currently plugged in.Might need to do a warranty return on that motherboard.Thanks for your reply, but that is a bitter pill to swallow.

j a b If you remove the CMOS battery for 20 minutes the BIOS will revert back to the default settings....in case it's a change you made incorrectly.Tried re-setting the BIOS by removing the battery. Still no keys after 3 seconds.Quote from: j a beagle on August 04, 2009, 03:52:33 PM

Thanks for your reply, but that is a bitter pill to swallow.

Yes it shows up in BIOS and registers in windows (the old 32 bit copy on the HDD.

I need some help understanding something?

I have DDR 2 DIMM 800 MHz

Now this means that the information is going from the CPU to the memory and from the memory to the CPU at 800 MHz right???

And just to keep it simple for me say your Front/Side BUSS is 500 MHz then what is the front/side buss???Quote from: nymph4 on August 24, 2009, 04:39:28 PM

Now this means that the information is going from the CPU to the memory and from the memory to the CPU at 800 MHz right???

My Motherboard auto SWITCH off when i put the CPU in the socket. Without the CPU or the RAM the motherboard wors well (did not sitch off it self)

Does anyone know it's problem?You're not supposed to work on a MBoard with POWER connected...
I seriously HOPE this is not what your doing.

Quote

Without the CPU or the RAM the motherboard wors well (did not sitch off it self)

My Motherboard auto switch off when i put the CPU in the socket. Without the CPU or the RAM the motherboard wors well (did not sitch off it self)

Does anyone know it's problem?

No but, the thing is I used to have a weak PSU with abt 500 in strength, I bought a new 750 or 800 maybe for it to fully supply my fans. And it has never failed until now.. ^^ updating my gfx driver tho I would listen to Broni, I had a diff account on here a few years ago and he was giving good accurate advice then. It just so happens I agree with the diag. that it could be a driver/PSU/loosewire/unseated/bad card/ etc..doesnt look like heat.

To many people resort to trying to get RID of a virus/trojen/bomb etc...That z not even there...OK. I tried updating my gfx driver but after a few seconds into the installer all programs hit "an error and has to be closed" EVERY program.. explorer etc..Quote from: jaythom1969 on AUGUST 23, 2009, 04:42:53 AM

To many people resort to trying to get rid of a virus/trojen/bomb etc...That z not even there...

Any ideas as to what specific component to replace rather than a $hotgun approach?

While nearby, I happened to observe my desktop suddenly crash. It was on but had not been used in an hour or so. It would not POST. No beeps.

In more than 50 re-start attempts, it successfully POSTed then went on to successfully start Windows once. On 2 occasions it began POST then stopped with the message: CMOS check sum ERROR, defaults loaded. Warning! Now system is in Safe Mode.ter POST.

On all other tries, nothing on screen and no beeps.

Have tried to follow the many troubleshooting guides on the website.

Fans and hard drive seem to spin normally.
Peripherals/Drives have been removed.
Memory has been removed and rotated in all combinations.
Motherboard battery replaced.
CMOS had been cleared with motherboard JUMPER several times.
With CPU fan removed, CPU became warm within seconds.
F8 and Del keys have not had any EFFECT when turning on.
Monitor works on notebook.

The home made machine gets pretty light use, there has been no gaming, intensive graphic use, etc. It is 3 years old.

G-Force 6600 PCI Express with 256 MB
Biostar N4SIE-A7. SLI not hooked up.
Windows XP-professional, with antivirus –all up-to-date
Ultra ULT31849 X-Finity 600W Power Supply
Intel Pentium 4 630 Processor Prescott 3.0GHz, 800MHz FSB, Socket 775, 2MB Cache
DELL 19” 1905FP
Kingston (2) 5300 (1 GB DIMM) INSTALLED.

Thank you in advance!
Try it with only ONE stick of RAM...installed in the slot closest to the CPU...
Borrow a known good PSU of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there...
Replace the CMOS battery (even though you have already done so...i've seen them dead out of the package)...Installed 2nd new CMOS battery. Used each memory stick independently in each slot. No change -no POST.

Don't have a PSU substitution option until I buy another. The 600W unit is oversized for my use -doesn't mean it didn't fail. Any way to check? Volt meter shows up to 12V (depending on pins -can't reach them all.

Thank you!check to make sure all molex connectors are in tight
reseat the ram
take cmos battery out and unplug power of 2 mintis
put the battery back in
turn it on
see if it POST'sTried all of your suggestions without any POST activity that I could discern. Thank you for your ideas.

Seems to me that it could still be MOBO, CPU, or PSU. We have probably ruled out RAM. The PSU seems unlikely to me.

Originally, I thought I would be faced with a few hundred bucks to modernize the PC when it met my needs as it was. However, on eBay for a $100, I found a compatible used MOBO with 2MB of similar RAM and a slightly faster CPU combo so I will try that route.

If I discover the issue I post the finding.

Thanks again for help.

If ANYONE is using a "Logitech V450 Cordless Laser Notebook Mouse", could you tell me what is the approx range it can be used from the laptop please?Google 1st item--near bottom of review.truenorthSo, what? About thirteen feet, give or TAKE?

Point is well taken -- the original poster might have easily found this with a bit of effort.Yes indeed that was my main point. However i had INTENDED to provide the link as a courtesy.Oops! http://reviews.cnet.com/mice/logitech-v450-laser-cordless/4505-3148_7-31964415.html truenorthThanks for the actual measurement. I had already seen the review but, as this was describing the American version with the 1 1/2" plug-in, I wanted to know the range of the version sold in the UK.

Thank-you 'Aegis'.Then it WOULD be 13 feet CONVERTED into Metre's...Let's see....thirteen feet times twelve inches equals one hundred fifty-six inches...divided by thirty-nine inches...about four meters!Quote from: Aegis on August 17, 2009, 08:01:29 PM

Let's see....thirteen feet times twelve inches equals one hundred fifty-six inches...divided by thirty-nine inches...about four meters!