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looks like that's what I'll have to do. Gees. Any suggestions where to buy one, on line?LOL I know that place. But, I would want one that is the right one for this model pc. So far, on ebay, not much in descriptions. Oh, and I see switchs on the back! Switches scare me now Suggested Reading

And don't be scared of switches...I've been to his site Even checked out his installing the psu, the last step, turn the power SWITCH on. Which I did, but it doesn't shut down when I shut down windows. This is absolutely the MOST important part of that link Patio gave you:

Avoid Power Supplies Under $30
Most power supplies that are priced below $30 generally do not MEET the power requirements of the latest processors. To make matters worse, the components used in them are of inferior quality and more likely to fail over time. While they may power the computer system, inconsistencies in the power to the components will tend to cause instability and damage to the computer. I saw that right away. What struck me? The one I bought isn't under 30, and everything I see on ebay is. Don't go to EBay...try newegg instead.and think Antec.

No 250w power supply is worth $30. No doubt that's what they sold it for, though. Another good read...I was going to ask what TYPE. Ebay has Dynex, Echo, Antec, and again most are below $30.
Thanks
"Power supply buyers and shoppers are generally naïve, trusting manufacturer claims blindly. "

Yep, that would be me, found that on 2nd good read you SENT me, thanks.

I'm still lost as to what to buy. This computer is not used for anything expect trolling the internet, ex, ticketmaster, for concerts, lol, stuff like that. And email. Nothing more.

I just don't care for the fact that the only way to turn this baby off is to flip a switch on the back.
That's why I said switches scare me , don't want to by another one to replace this new one, and have the same problem.

thanks everyone for helping me, I really appreciate it.
I'm sure it wouls be a lot easier to just get into the habit of switching it off at the wall, unplugging it as well. That way, with it unplugged, it is even protected against power surges that can blow up hard drives.

It's what I used to do with min before I got surge protected. I still switch it off at the socket though.That's what he'll have to do, flip the switch. I'd rather buy him another PSU, so he didn't have to do that, and return this one. But that's me, it's the principal of the thing. Yeah, that gets me far, LOL.
He's satisfied with SHUTTING down, then flipping the switch.

i am unsure what topic to post this under, so i'm posting here and on the 'networking site'...

yes, i know nothing about what i need - but here it goes anyway! i have an older computer - an etower 533 w/windows 98 that is not in use at the moment...currentley i am using a dell dimension 8400 with an ethernet connection...my problem is that i will be needing to hook up my old computer in place of the dell, but my old computer has no ethernet connection...

i had a cable idiot out here yesterday who literally handed over a usb cable and a disk and said 'you have a 50/50 shot of it working out for you'...what the heck is that?? i TRIED the cable w/disk and couldn't even get into it because for some REASON my old modem didn't even have adobe installed - went to install it and came up with an error message..

so, please - i'm praying there is a simple and very cheap fix for my issue...someone mentioned getting a network card...does that seem correct? and if i do that, will i run into the same problem with the dumb adobe not installing?

many thanx to any help!You need a NIC PCI card for the Win98 machine...about 10 to 15 bucks.What? An eithernet card and a modem are two different things. Do you need the ethernet? Do you have anything connected to it now? The modem should just install into your other computer just fine. I am gathering by your lack of explantion that you have an external modem that connects thru the ethernet (or network card) and that is how it communicates with the dell. Or do you have high speed internet that uses the ethernet? And why do you want a modem anyway? Dial up sucks. If you are trying to install the modem, with no ethernet, and if you dont need the ethernet, then just open the side of your dell and see if you have any avaialbe PCI slots. Those are the slots with the rest of the cards in them. Shut down the computer, slam it in and reboot, should find it and install the driver from there. YOu are not doing a very good of explaining your problem though. What are you trying to do and why? Why do you need the ethernet? Etc,sorry about the lack of sufficient explanation...pretty sure i mentioned i didn't know what i was talking about 'deep'...

my subject line was wrong and i apologize - no modem issues - just need an ethernet connection on my old computer....

thanx patio for your reply as well...You're Welcome...feel free to ignore the post above.Quote from: jennifer619 on September 27, 2007, 01:44:53 PM

sorry about the lack of sufficient explanation...pretty sure i mentioned i didn't know what i was talking about 'deep'...

my subject line was wrong and i apologize - no modem issues - just need an ethernet connection on my old computer....

thanx patio for your reply as well...

thank you for the replies!! i looked at a few online and the specs say i need windows 2000,vista,etc...basically everything but what i have! on the computer i'll be using, i have windows 98 - ...

Do you have this problem, or telling us how to solve the problem?I gather this problem is peculiar to computer users in the UK or anyone wanting to use the POUND currency symbol. I normally have no need to use the Pound currency symbol but, if I did, it would probably be in Microsoft Excel and, if I RECALL correctly, I have used it in Excel.

Anyway, I FIND your post a little confusing, so, in case other viewers MIGHT also find it confusing, perhaps some clarification is needed. You are talking about the key that shows number 3 and #, right? And, do you want that key to type # or the Pound currency symbol, when the Shift key is HELD down?I too am confused but that doesn't take much...

My computer has recently been freezing since changing cases. I'm a computer techician so I went over all the logical troubleshooting process without coming to a conclusion. However recently i've figured out the culprite. My PROCESSOR is causing these random FREEZES.

Sometimes my computer will not get no picture, and my speakers will say 'system failed cpu test' I can keep trying and it will say the same thing, INLESS I press down on the cpu fan, pushing it closer against the cpu. I know what your thinking, the cpu fan isnt tight enough, but it is tight as POSSIBLE. Now I can make this computer freeze at will by simply moving the cpu fan so very slightly. Also I monitor the cpu temps and they are always normal, 95 Farheint to be exact.

Does this SOUND like a defective cpu?.....defective fan?? motherboard?? really weird problem. I've tried reseating the processor which seemed to fix it for a good 3 weeks, then the problem came back.

any ideas?The CPU not the fan is seated incorrectly...that and/ or the CPU has a bent pin.

Carefully disassemble things and do a close inspection of the components.reseated cpu perfectly, same problem..

there is a tiny bit of thermal grease on the processor slot, maybe this is the problem?You should probably clean that as thoroughly as possible and SEE whether cleaning solves the problem.

Hello,
I am having problems with my laptop computer. It is a Toshiba Satellite A-105 with Windows XP Home. Every time I go to turn it on, the green lights come on showing me it is about to start and I can HEAR it, and then immediately the computer shuts down. The computer will then repeat process (about 5 times) of starting up and then a few seconds later shutting down (without me touching the power on button). I have checked the battery and the power source, and there is nothing wrong with either. Therefore, I think it has something to do with my computer itself. One thing to note: I recently added Netscape NAVIGATOR and had problems with the internet freezing on me while using Navigator. Then, my computer froze and I was unable to end the program (control + alt + delete), so I ENDED up having to power off the computer manually. I think this is the last time the computer worked normally, but I am not 100% sure. Any advice would be greatly appreciated !!!
Thank you very much!
Just a random thing that may HELP...Approx how old is this laptop?Welcome to the CH forums.

I think you have a hardware problem with either your ram or hdd.

Please test your ram using Memtest86 from here and run the hdd manufacturer's diagnostic program.

Good luckThe computer is only 1 and 1/2 years old. I am not sure how I could run any tests since I can't turn it on to enter any discs.hmmm maybe over heating can you take the keyboard of and aim a fan into it to see if that HELPS

Thank you Fed, much easier way to do that Did we ever establish if this thing was clean?
Ewido/AVG Anti-Spyware Online Scan
Panda ActivescanThanks, Fed. Did I miss the pwoer SUPPLY somewhere? The history of this machine WOULD be helpful as well, but that didn't get mentioned other than given away, did it?run a livecd like knoppix and see if it runs slow

this may help you DEDUCE if the problem is hardware or softwareOk, did the ewido test, nothing found. I'm not really SURPRISED. It's not connected to the internet, so the only way it would have been INFECTED would have been through my usb flash drive. Since i don't have internet i wasn't able to do the panda activsecan though.
The best i can give you for the power supply is that on a serial tag it said SN:S51G00340E01205, on a sticker it had 9TPWR2004A, and on a label it had S/N:0311161 Model NO:AM630BS20S Achme. It's also got some power values on it.

I don't know anything about the history, sorry

Finally, akmal.avloni, i'm not sure what you meanAn older 200W PSU...i'd consider replacing it.

running OLDER printer hooked up to par/on computer need to run older fax but no
other par/ on pc..printer..hp lj4+ fax toshiba tf610 what do i need to complete hookup ? thanks jerryI'm not exactly sure what this means and the google translator was of little help...

Are you saying you have no parrallel ports to hook up to ? ?

They do sell adapters but without more info i would just be guessing.have run out of parrallel ports for fax can i use parrallel port (small port) from BACK of printer , it has 2 ports?I STILL need more info on what you are trying to accomplish to prevent guesswork...Quote

have run out of parrallel ports for fax can i use parrallel port (small port) from back of printer , it has 2 ports?

I just found out that my Asus A8NE-FM/S doesn't show on the ASUS Site..
This mobo will aswell maybe not support my new Athlon 64 x2 im getting unless i get a BIOS update.
Please Help.


Thanks.

My system:
Windows XP Home Edition SP2
2.5GB RAM (3200)
Nvidia GF 8800GTS 320MB ( Havent installed it yet tho ) Have a Radeon X550 atm
AMD athlon 64 3500+

Will it even support my upcoming graphics card? As i cant get a BIOS Update..You didnt check this out before ORDERING a new processor? How do you know the socket will even fit? It does support that chip...probably without a BIOS flash.
The reason it is not listed is it is an OEM board i.e. manufactured for OEM machine builders.

ThreadQuote from: deep on September 27, 2007, 01:17:07 PM

You didnt check this out before ordering a new processor? How do you know the socket will even fit?

I have a Maxtor 80GB HDD which the warranty has expired.
Since a few weeks ago, when I am accessing files on the drive, the drive makes some mechanical TICKING noise.
I guess this is a unrecoverable HARDWARE failure.
Since its warranty has expired, what else can I do with it other than just throw it away?Run the free diagnostics from the Maxtor site and check it for fitness. If it passes keep on using it. If not, it's time for a new drive. How old is it?i just want to add that any SOUNDS such as clicks coming froma harddrive is one of the worst

in my store if a Hard drive comes in and is clikcing we immedetly put it as level 3 fixing and ship it to the service center.

I would reccomend a new harddrive they are usally good prices

100 gigs for 100 dollars

180 gigs for about 150 i think

ther are ways to get your data back if you think thats what you want to do i can put up a walkthroughI could not run the Maxtor Diagnostic tool because I don't have a FDD on my computer.

The HDD is about one-year-old.
Actually I got it from a friend who WORKS in Acer Service Center.
However, I realize that there is no warranty sticker on the HDD and in fact he didn't give me the receipt when he sent me the drive last year.
When I contacted him saying that I want to send him back the HDD, he said that the warranty is expired.
Anyway, I see that the Mfg Date stated on the HDD is 15Nov2005, and from Maxtor warranty site, the warranty is actually until 01/19/2009.
So, I guess he tried to fool me?

Tinygnome, I have backup all the files on the drive. Thanks.
If the warranty is imprinted onthe drive that may be enough. I would contact Maxtor ( now owned by Seagate). You know on occasion a power plug(molex) from your PSU can be faulty,
also the IDE ribbon cable can be faulty.

Even though it is working that doesn't mean it's getting proper connections.

We have had this happen twice in our household.One time was the 4 pin
power plug and the other time was the IDE Cable.

I did not notice that GX1-Man had posted back again.
He is correct Seagate has almost bet the farm on their
5 year waranty.They will probably be glad to give you
another hard drive.

Enjoy THANKSGIVING people.

GX1_Man, there is no imprint regarding the warranty on the drive.
But I guess from the SN they can check out the warranty status like I did on their website?
I actually planned to contact Maxtor directly, but unfortunately, as I am in the AP region, the RMA should be issued by the distributor...so I guess if the friend of mine refuse to do so, I may need to contact the regional service center? But consider that I don't have a receipt and the warranty sticker, they are unlikely to entertain me.

Street1, the noise is there whether I connect the HDD direct to the IDE or on external USB case.Nothing to lose, but I think if you could try that drive on a machine that can run the diagnostics you would have better information to give them. "It clicks" is a lot less compelling than "Your diagnostic program says it is failing". Can you do the Bootable cd iso image file?


http://www.maxtor.com/portal/site/Maxtor/menuitem.3c67e325e0a6b1f6294198b091346068/?channelpath=%2Fen_us%2FSupport%2FSoftware+Downloads%2FView+By+Category%2FDesktop+Storage%2FMaxtor+Other%2FDiagnostics&downloadID=113


Have you looked at the below site?Maybe the serial number is enough.

http://service.maxtor.com/rightnow/Flash/gtla_locater/sn_gtla_rev11a.swf

ok i just purchased all new parts for my computer here they are:

-intel penium d 3.2 dual core
-intel d101 GGCL
-1gb pc3200 high density ram
-nvidia GEFORCE 6800gs
-600w atx psu

now everythings installed i went to boot and it shows the bios for a split second (and reads only 256mb). then it loads to the intel wallpaper and just freezes there...help.The 256 being reported is the RAM on the vid card...since it goes no further than that you either have something hooked up wrong or a component is not seated properly.
Completely unhook all power to the UNIT and double check all your connections including the RAM and IDE cables.

patio. 8-)ok i also 4got to post taht when it was on the bios screen the only thing that it showed WAS the video card nothing else no harddrive, cdroms drives....now my hdd is a sata connection ive never used it b4 im used to the good ol ide strips but anyways there was 2 plugs one was for the power the other was a red one that had a septerate plug in slot on the mobo. but ima take everything apart rite now and resit everything.You either damaged something while installing or you didn't install it properly.Hi There
You have video output so your power to modbo, video card and CPU is OK.
Does you video card need it's own power from the psu, check to see if it's got a molex connector.
If not forget about that bit.

Can you boot to Floppy disk or CD ?

Unplug your RAM re-boot are you getting post beeps?
If you do plug your ram back in and assume ram is OK
Make sure if you have x2 512mb ram you have two idential sticks, if 1gb stick forget about this too.

Go into bios and turn off "Wallpaper" It's not called wallpaper but I forget what it is called in bios.
reboot can you see any error messages?

Is you bios set to auto detect for your drives, most mobo's are set to auto detect but check anyway.

I had SIMILAR problem today, (funny eh) and it was a bad stick of ram.
Is is possible you can test with another stick?

Anyhow let us know how you get on
stevearighty hey steve...i ALREADY did the ram test and found out one of my gb sticks were bad thats why im only left with just 1 gb stick that does work. as for the extra power to the video card it does got one and it is already plugged in. when i try to load the bios cd for the mobo i can hear the cd spinning but nothing else. and i cant even get into the bios(even pressing delete to enter bios wont work). like it shows it for a split second with the details on my video card then it switches to that intel wallpaper. ive alreayd unplugged everting and reinserted it all. im completely clueless wat to do now all i want to do is get this computer running so i can play bf2 and star warsSO.........
Am I right in saying that your pc seems to post OK but sticks on intel screen?

Don't mean to ask stupid questions but did you press f2, (could be DEL key but intel usually f2) several times while booting to get into bios?
If you did you should get bios setup screens

the remaining stick of ram, has it been tested in another pc? is this possible to try? possibly two are dead?

i'm running out of ideas why you cant get into bios
generally if you ram is ok and you get a post screen u should be able to get into bios

Raptor was on target. What about that advice?Quote

Raptor was on target. What about that advice?

I have two hard drives, one is SPLIT nfts for XP and EXT for linux, the other hard drive is fat32 which i use to share between the two OS's.

After my last REBOOT i got the "disk needs to be checked for consistency" (fat32 drive) message, which i normally skip... however i was too late getting to my keyboard to abort it and it started before i hit a key.

during the disk check there was some problem and a prompt to do something, but because i hit a key after the check started, it automatically agreed to the prompt and continued.

now when i look at the fat32 drive, the disk usage shows CORRECTLY but all of the files and folders are gone except for about 20 random files. i have tried booting into linux but it now gets stuck at the fdsk check and i can't seem to ctrl-c or abort it.

Any ideas on how to get access to all of these files (doc xls pdf mp3 AVI jpeg etc...)?

thanks!Try getting a ubuntu live cd and see if it'll detect your drive and mount it.i loaded up a knoppix cd, and it found and mounted the drive with no problem, but it only showed the same 20 or so files I can see on windows.

I also tried restoring windows to a previous date, but that didn't do anything either.

I'm really stumped on this one because i'm not exactly sure what happened. It is also weird that is just a collection of random files that were on the drive are showing up and that it shows the correct disk usage.Edit for lack of rational content.

Deep you have been warned.

patio.

Quote

pkan on uning it... If you have a nertwork connection...

Hello. You probably find this hard to believe, but the computer I am working with, my old one for now until I can get the printer set up and my data transferred, has a grand total of 26 MB memory. Yes, 26 MB. So I don't think I can mount any new equipment, nor can I afford a CD Drive to mount to it. And, I think I mentioned that we did put in the USB in this old computer but it can't handle it. It blew out a scanner that we connected to it. So USB is impossible. And I can't install the network card/drivers that you say because I just don't think this old computer will hold anything else. And I don't want to put any money into anything for it.
I don't know the size of what I want to send, I just know I have hundreds of letters, and hundreds of documents as well.
I think we are down to: TAKING out the hard and putting it into a computer that has the USB and copying the datat onto a keychain drive or stick or whatever you call it.
Trying to get the data to an online site which someone here has said will take too long with my dial-up modem.
Sigh.

Dr. D.

Quote

pkan on uning it... If you have a nertwork connection...

Having a rough day, mate? (Couldn't help myself - 'nertwork' really made me smile!)

Quote

that other port you described with the 3 rows of holes is a serial port.

3 rows = VGA
2 rows = serial

Alright, so I had 1GB (512MBx2) of RAM installed in my PC and I just put in another gig. Now my computer says that there's 1.5GB of RAM. CPU-Z says I have 2048 MB and Belarc Advisor says:

1536 Megabytes Installed Memory

Slot '0' has 512 MB
Slot '1' has 512 MB
Slot '2' has 512 MB
Slot '3' has 512 MB

Does anyone know where the problem lies?Run a test :


http://www.memtest86.com/

Download the iso .... burn with poweriso at a slow speed 6x

Reboot in with disc in computer report back with any errors.....


Tony Or just get ubuntu. It's got it on there.I ran memtest and got no errors. However, it only recognized 1536MB of RAM. GRR!!!Your mobo could be taking that....

Tony Quote from: Richenstony on SEPTEMBER 27, 2007, 10:52:40 AM

Your mobo could be taking that....

Tony

Main Memory

•
Supports four 184-pin DDR SDRAMs up to 4GB memory size
• Supports DDR400*/DDR333/DDR266 DDR SDRAM (*Refer to MSI recommended modules)
• Note: PC3200 (DDR400)
Due to the High Performance Memory design, MOTHERBOARDS or system configurations may or may not operate smoothly at the JEDEC (Joint Electron Device Engineering Council) standard settings (BIOS Default on the motherboard) such as DDR VOLTAGE, memory speeds and memory timing. Please confirm and adjust your memory setting in the BIOS accordingly for better system stability.
Example: Kingston HyperX DDR500 PC4000 operates at 2.65V, 3-4-4-8, CL=3.
For more information about specification of high performance memory modules, please check with your Memory Manufactures for more details.

DIMM Module Combination
Install at least one DIMM module on the slots. Each DIMM slot supports up to a maximum size of 1GB. Users can install either single- or double-sided modules to meet their own needs. Please note that each DIMM can work respectively for singlechannel DDR, but there are some rules while using dual-channel DDR (Please refer to the suggested DDR population table below). Users may install memory modules of different type and density on different-channel DDR DIMMs. However, the same type and density memory modules are necessary while using dual-channel DDR, or instability may happen. Please refer to the following table for detailed dual-channel DDR. Other combination not listed below will function as single-channel DDR.


Green DIMM1 (Ch A)

Green DIMM2 (Ch A)

Purple DIMM3 (Ch B)

Purple DIMM4 (Ch B)

System Density
Single Channel
-

128MB ~ 1GB

-

-

128MB ~ 1GB
Dual Channel
-

128MB ~ 1GB

-

128MB ~ 1GB

256MB ~ 2GB
Dual Channel
128MB ~ 1GB

128MB ~ 1GB

128MB ~ 1GB

128MB ~ 1GB

512MB ~ 4GB
MSI Reminds You...

• Dual-channel DDR works ONLY in the 3 combinations listed in the table shown in the previous page.
• Please select the identical memory modules to install on the dual channel, and DO NOT install three memory modules on three DIMMs, or it may cause some failure.
• Always insert the memory modules into the GREEN slots first, and it is strongly recommended not to insert the memory modules into the PURPLE slots while the GREEN slots are left empty.
• This mainboard DO NOT support the memory module installed with more than 18 pieces of IC (integrated circuit).
• The Maximum memory speed decreases when the following two memory combination is selected:
- Each channel is installed with two double-sided memory module
- Both DIMM1 and DIMM3 are installed with double-sided memory module
• Due to the South Bridge resource deployment, the system density will only be detected up to 3+ GB (not full 4GB) when each DIMM is installed with an 1GB memory module
Recommended Memory Combination List

DIMM Slots

Max Speed
Green

Purple
DIMM1

DIMM2

DIMM3

DIMM4
-

S

-

-

DDR 400
-

D

-

-

DDR 400
-

S

-

S

DDR 400
-

D

-

D

DDR 400
S

S

S

S

DDR 400
D

D

D

D

DDR 333
S: Single Side
D: Double Side

Hello, I had to replace a Compaq 340Watt power supply that fried with a 450Watt and there was no SATA power connections available. I did however have a PATA to SATA power adapter, and put that in and it works, however I am questioning why it is able to work without the 3.3 volt feed that the prior power supply had which was an orange wire.

Is there a disadvantage to running with just 5 and 12 volts without the 3.3 volt feed to the drive?

I am guessing that the 3.3 volt feed has an importance otherwise it would not have been there... so running without it has me confused?

Thanks,

Davehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA

Actually finally found the answer to my questions... Figured I would share it in case anyone else is interested who may not have KNOWN about this.

Most SATA drives dont use the 3.3 volts.

As copied and pasted below from the wiki link above:

ADAPTORS are available to convert a 4-pin Molex connector to SATA power connector. However, because the 4-pin Molex connectors do not provide 3.3 V power, these adapters provide only 5 V and 12 V power and leave the 3.3 V lines DISCONNECTED. This precludes the use of such adapters with drives that REQUIRE 3.3 V power. Understanding this, drive manufacturers have largely LEFT the 3.3 V power lines unused. However, without 3.3 V power, the SATA device may not be able to implement hotplugging as mentioned in the previous paragraph.

Dave

My keyboard is playing up something vicious! When I type it mie ((((((((((misses) out letters or sometimes repeats letters. It is annoying as *censored*! Help would be most appreciated please. Thanks...
redad2 (See !)Can you try another keyboard with that computer? This one may be dying.Is it wireless? Some wireless are real picky about SEEING the reciever.Thank you for your quick responses Rob and sealbee. See.... it is working okay first thing this morning! Contrary!

Yes... I was worried that someone may say I need a new keyboard. So it doesn't appear to be something simple, unfortunately.
I will go and see if I can borrow a neighbour's keyboard to try.

Thanks again...... I'll let you know.

PaulineGrab a new one just in case... they're not that expensive these days.

patio. 8-)Quote

Is it wireless? Some wireless are real picky about seeing the reciever.

Check those batteries too

Alan <><

Cut out from internet.
Everyday it is fine.
Today the CONNECTION status SHOWS that
Limited or no connectivity.
How to get back to online please?
I guess the driver ? or virusjmiah15.......... You failed to GIVE us any information about how you connect other than it is wireless ......

Have you tried repairing the connection ?
Perhaps someone has stolen your ROUTER .


dl65 This is a double post. Can we continue in >this thread<? And possibly move that thread into networking...THANKS to you all .
I got back.

It is great to meet you here....unvaluable!!!!
Bravo..Brava!

how to transmit command to printer using cellphone ?

i'd like to output the data which is on the cellphone screen
onto the printer using cellphone?what should i do?
anything to do with cellphone OPERATING system?
what is the main element i should consider?
i am using j2me to develop.
Thx in advance!Depends on your cellphone specs but do you MEAN REMOTELY transmit command or VIA usb connection :-?

Lots of info on WWW here's just ONE bit.

Good luck

Well, ive been meaning to buy a new motherboard including a CPU for a long time and i dont know much about computer parts, i came here looking for some help choosing a good motherboard. i will be using it mainly for gaming(with highest quality settings) and maybe screen recordings @ high resolutions. ive already got a video card, just missing a good motherboard and CPU

would this or this motherboard+CPU be good? if not, could you possibly help me find a better motherboard and CPU on that same site (preferably below $400)?

also, could i be told what i would need to look for in a motherboard and processor to know if its good or not for FUTURE referencesTravel over to newegg to do some comparison shopping...i've seen better deals there lately than the site you linked to...Quote from: patio on September 01, 2007, 08:39:27 AM

Travel over to newegg to do some comparison shopping...i've seen better deals there lately than the site you linked to...

You can do better than that.
Look for a Core 2 CPU instead of an Athlon-based one.

The first package has 4 memory slots compares to the second board's two, but the second board support 800/1066/1333MHz FSB compared to the first's support for 800/1066MHz.
However, they both include a very powerful quad core CPU, which will have excellent performance.
The answer to your question is yes.

Quote from: patio on September 01, 2007, 08:39:27 AM

Travel over to newegg to do some comparison shopping...i've seen better deals there lately than the site you linked to...

im not looking for deals

You sig doesn't make any sense to me either.

And the hits just keep on coming.

So, getting ready to reformat my HD (as documented in painstaking detail elsewhere).

I have an 80GB WESTERN Digital USB HD. It had been swappable between my two machines.

I copied a bunch of stuff off the soon-to-be-killed-and-hopefully-brought-back laptop onto the USB HD.

I shut down the soon-to-die laptop.

I plugged the USB HD into the surviving laptop.

Nothing.

I plug in my USB memory sticks, they pop up in Explorer.

This, NOTHING.

The power light comes on. The "new USB device" sound goes, but there is NOTHING THERE!!!!!

How do I find it???!?!?!?!???!?!?Went to "Computer Management" and this is what it looks like:
.

If I right-click on it (Disk 1) in the lower right, I am given the options "Partition" and "Properties".

What can I do that WILL NOT ERASE THIS DISK??!?!???!?!??!?

Thanks
From My COmputer, highlight the errant drive, right click and choose proerties. Does the file system show as RAW? Did it used to work and then quit? Was it FORMATTED previously as NTFS?Quote

From My COmputer, highlight the errant drive, right click and choose proerties.

Did it used to work and then quit?

Was it formatted previously as NTFS?

Did you properly power off the USB connection in Windows, or just pull the plug on the device?

No to either.

Hello everyone


I had recently added a old hard drive i had lieing around the house into my computer , now i had this issue before and i ended up scrapping my HD .....now this is the same one but now i have a little more patients than i did back then and im willing to take in some advice for the problem.....

Ok the problem is the Maxtor 160gbs will not take a clean install of x-p at all , it will not act as a master hard drive for my computer what so ever , the x-p bios set-up repeats itself over and over again with no installation what so ever going on it formats fine , but it wont install x-p ...... now i decided to link the hard drive up on one of the spare IDE ports on the mobo which i did i load x-p and use my old western digital hard drive as the main hd and it boots fine i take a trip into my computer and there is my Maxtor sitting there d:\ drive it works and runs fully //// but heres the issue i have, i need the other IDE PORT for my computers dvd-rom drive ive tried connecting the slave into the main western digtal and then reconnected the same cable aka the master part into the other one with full power going into both hds i get a error message lsass.exe failed then i turn my computer off and unplug the maxtor and the computer runs fine ....


Any suggestons lol

TONY


I'm a linux GEEK not a windows one, but maybe your jumpers are set at both master or both slave. Or maybe it's one of those limitation within the OS itself.Yes...Exactly what I was thinking. Check your jumpers as some drives are different and I've even met a few that took them horizontally :S

KurtisThis may help you

Link Edit

I didn`t really know what section I should ask this in. I have a Gateway 838GM computer and it says it has an Intel Graphics Media Accelerator 900.

I WANTED to maybe buy the GAME Zoo Tycoon and it says it requires Super VGA video display, capable of 800x600 resolution; DirectX® 8.0a (included); 4 MB graphics card, 16-bit COLOR capable, 16 MB recommended

I know how to use a computer and everything, I`m just not up with this type of stuff. Could anybody tell me if I could use this pc game with my computer or do I have to buy something else in order to use it?

I forgot to put that my computer is a Pentium 4 with 3.0 GHZ and 504MB Ram. So I do or don`t need to buy a graphics card??? Thank youThat should be fine. The requirements for that game are PRETTY low. The amount of memory is determined by the amount of system memory assigned to it. You did not say how MUCH RAM you have.

im TRYING to fix my CPU
first, i hear biiiiiiiiip biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiip biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiip sound and no DISPLAY to the monitor
then i chenj d video card now it SOUNDS bip! but still no display,
i change the video card & monitor but still it does not work...
what will i do?You are GETTING replies to your other post which you have not responded to. I am locking this one so you can devote your full time and attention to that one post.

You have to do some work too, you know.

For anyone who knows video cards, I have a question. I'm considering the XFX Geforce 7600GT vs. the XFX Geforce 6800XT. Pretty much, the two differences are the 7600 has 12 pixel pipelines and 128-bit memory interface and the 6800 has 8 pixel pipelines and 256-bit memory interface. Which would be the better card?

6800XT: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814150130

7600GT: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814150182

Or if there is a better option I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks!I wouldn't go below 12 pixel pipelines, try LOOKING for a card that has a 256-bit memory interface.Different manufactors often make different technical adjustments to their cards - shop around.I would go with this one right here ( like I did the other day) if those are your 2 choices, both have received "good" reviews but I belive the pixel question is more relevant as well as the better software options with the 7- series card

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814143049

best price so far on a new 7600 GT
(comes with all the attachments, nice HD-tv connector and 2 stickers) some free game download SIN Episodes: Emergence with free ACCES to some steam account ?
The BFG looks good, I've had BFG and XFX, currently I use an XFX FX5200 256MB card that is pretty good, but a little outdated, especially with games like Americas Army 2.7 where I'm running 10-20fps at low settings

I wish we could all buy cards with 12 pixelpipes AND 256 bit memory interface for $150US :-/

I appreciate the advice-thanks everyoneYou should spend more than $ 150 if you want a good card.Quote

You should spend more than $ 150 if you want a good card.

Quote

You should spend more than $ 150 if you want a good card.

WHY? There is no need with this good video card. Especially with prices starting to come down. With the 30.00 rebate on this card you could get 2 for 230.00 and hook both up SLI and have top notch graphics on your puter. Read some of the reviews from people who bought this, and they are from hard-core gamers, unlike myself.

you can't even compare a 6600le to the 7600 gt

The 7600gt is quite a jump in quality then the 6600le*

Is a high-end 6000 series (6800XT) better or worse than a low/mid-range 7000 series (7300GS). They both have 256MB onboard.Track should be along shortly.By onboard I assume you mean dedicated RAM on the graphics card (good)?

The high end GeForce 6 series cards are faster than the low end GeForce 7 cards, with some overlap in the middle. If you want a good graphics card though, why not simply get a high end GeForce 7? (Or is this just a question of curiosity? )Quote

Is a high-end 6000 series (6800XT) better or worse than a low/mid-range 7000 series (7300GS). They both have 256MB onboard.

The reason I don't get a 7600/7800 is because i'm on a budget. $460 for the entire PC.
So... The 6800XT is better because of the 256-bit memory? It has to be able to play the latest games while staying within the $460 limit. I think the 6800XT is slighty more expensive than the 7300GS. Here are the specs:
Athlon 64 3200
1GB DDR 400
120GB hard drive
geforce xx00xx graphics card
soundblaster live
500-watt psu
If you can find me a good card for about $70 at newegg that'de be great

Define "unlock pipeline"? I don't even KNOW what a pipeline IS! I'm assuming that it's the amount of data channels that can access the memory simultaniusly. Can you explain how to do this. Can I unlock the 7600GS's pipeline?

Quote

that doesnt SOUND too good??? Out of warranty for 2 years unfortunately! It has actually done this once before and was put away for a COUPLE of months, when I got it out to *just try it* it fired up again - kind of strange I thought, but, it worked as normal up until now - thanks for any help, I think I may try to shelve it and cross my fingers and hope that the same stroke of lucks HITS again! Leave it ALONE and see, failing that, I take it as there is no simple fix!

I am having some trouble understanding these PCI Express x16 video cards. I'm not sure what exactly a card with 512mb memory, but 128mb on board is. Then some cards are 256mb, effective to 512mb. I'm runnning an ASUS P5ND2 motherboard with SLI. I read somewhere that if I use dual SLI cards, they will work together. Does that mean if I get (2) 256mb cards, I can use it together and achieve 512mb on 1 monitor? Any help is appreciated.

Thank you,
Hoop2077Now that I'm looking at power supplies, I notice that some are SLI compatible, and some aren't. I assume this is the same thing, but am not certain. Anything else I need to look out for?

Thanks,
Hoop2077Different memory amounts means that it is using system memory as well as its own
Eg, if a card has 128Mb of its own memory and 512Mb total, it has 128Mb on board and "borrows" the rest from the system memory when needed
It doesn't necessarily mean it's a bad card unless it has very little dedicated memory, which particular cards are you looking at?
SLI is 2 cards working together to provide better performance, but you may not notice an increase as it depends on detail settings, resolution etc
The cards also must be the same chip
As for the power supply, to use SLI you need an SLI compatible PSU
Also look out for the power rating, you need to supply power for both cards as well as your other componenets so you might need a beefier power supply
If you need clarification then say so, sorry if I haven't eplained it very well but I did my best
Need any more help just askTo my knowledge, two video cards in SLI does not double your video memory available. For example, 2 128MB cards together does not result in 256MB in total. If you are gaming, get a card with its own dedicated memory. Perhaps you could provide links for the cards that are causing confusion?Well, I'm trying to build a computer to sell. I'm going with a P5ND2 board, 1GB RAM, DVD BURNER, 250 GB SATA HD, Celeron D 3.2 GHz. I love the P5ND2 and figured since it was capable, I would experiment with the SLI. I basically need to know what kind of cards to throw in there to legitimately call it a gaming machine. How big of a power supply should I look for. While I'm on the subject, how can I figure out how much power something like a DVD burner would use ANYWAY?

Thanks,
Hoop2077Power for a DVD burner shouldn't be much (I think), maybe you can find exact amount on the manufacturer's page
Sounds like a pretty good machine although the processor may be a little weak, but it won't make much of a difference for most games
As for which cards to get, try the 7600GT, that's pretty good
Look on nVidia's website or the manufacturer's website (if that's the right term, eg PNY for a PNY 7600?) for the power supply wattage recommendedgo for a sempron 64 at LEAST. I'd recommend an athlon 64. Cheap and fast. As for the PSU, 400-500 watts is ok. Correct me if i'm wrong. I'd like to be hype-free also.Quote

Well, I'm trying to build a computer to sell. I'm going with a P5ND2 board, 1GB RAM, DVD burner, 250 GB SATA HD, Celeron D 3.2 GHz. I love the P5ND2 and figured since it was capable, I would experiment with the SLI. I basically need to know what kind of cards to throw in there to legitimately call it a gaming machine. How big of a power supply should I look for. While I'm on the subject, how can I figure out how much power something like a DVD burner would use anyway?

Thanks,
Hoop2077

Hi everyone who is on this website. Im having real troubles with my speakers or it could be my soundcard my cousin SAYS. My left speaker comes out distorted when it is turned up, BUT i can turn it down and it will be fine. But this is not the problem. I do alot of recording with my computer with a program called ACID sony music studio 5.0. So whenever i record, two bars come up and shows how much sound is coming out, but the left bar does not show anysound at all and the right one is a tiny little BIT. I got new speakers but the problem still exists.

Is there anyway i can fix this quickly and without having to get ANOTHER soundcard, or anything you can suggest?
Any help would be greatly appreciated and you will be a hero if you could fix it! Test the speakers on another system and reinstall the soundcard drivers.Um ..Im sorry I DONT know what you mean...like im not a real computer know it all.. You think you could explain a little different to me?Unplug the speaker, pick them up, walk/drive/fly/teleport to another computer, plug them in, see if they work

Hello. I am really stumped here. I work for a tutoring company that has an online tutoring service. The worksheets have multiple choice setup where you click on a little circle next to the answer you want to choose.
I need to print these worksheets at home, but when I do, the little circles do not show up. I am the only tutor whose printer will not print the little circles. I have no idea what the problem could be. The circles show up in print preview. The only time I have gotten them to print is when I emailed myself a worksheet, and printed from there. Any suggestions?Try hiting ctrl + p rather than, printer friendly version.....

You could also try....

Hiting CtRl and A to highlight everything then Ctrl and C then open a word doc and hit Ctrl and v

then print it from there ! To me, worksheet implies Microsoft Excel. Is that what you're using for these tutoring worksheets? if it is excel, format --> Boarders and shading make sure there are clicked Hi, thanks for replying. I can't print them from Word, because the worksheet gets all messed up when you copy it over. Ok. So I tried copying in to my spreadsheet program, and it looks good. Let me try printing it....and YES, we have circles. It will be time consuming to copy and paste every worksheet I have to print (I have 40 students), but I guess that is the only way it will work. Thank you so much for your help, I never would have thought they used excel for this type of document."borders and shading-make sure they are clicked" Where do I find this setting? Go to page set up, then the sheet tab there should be a we tick box show grid LINES ...Quote from: Spero-T on September 17, 2007, 07:30:45 AM

if it is excel, format --> Boarders and shading make sure there are clicked

Soybean just dont you worry about.....

Soybean just dont you worry about.....



tick the box as i said above it should work for you....

cant see it was a 40gig. and im pretty sure its 40gig and its in label of the HD

i install a second hand samsung 40gig HD (it came from pc in my work, coz they upgrade to 80gig)

when i click My Computer i see only:

Drive C: its my OS and its not partitioned

slave in partitioned:
Local Disk (E): Free space: 1.12gig Total Size: 1.17gig
Local Disk (F): Free space: 9.68gig Total Size: 9.76gig
Local Disk (G): Free space: 9.68gig Total Size: 9.76gig

(and i DONT know why its in partitioned)

So meaning, the 20gig is missing
Can someone HELP where can i get that back?

OS: XP SP2
P4 1.6gigIt may not be properly detected by your machine because:

• The HDD is damaged
• The BIOS is not properly configured
• You set a jumper that makes it smaller in size (Check sticker on top of HDD)

Hey guys

Ok here is the story as follows.
I had a Socket 478 Northwood 3.0Ghz CPU with H/T, and the standard Intel P4 heatsink broke because the bottom left clip came off from vibration and the CPU Fried with out my knowledge.
Ok after grieving and moving on the a cheap $30 Intel Celeron P4 Skt 478 2.5Ghz (SL6ZY) and having a heatsink clip made for me by a very close computing mate who showed me it worked fine with his own 2.8GHz Northwood in my motherboard. I rush home and insert the 2nd hand CPU, which was known to be working fine, and clip on the heatsink. No beep . I fiddled with it over and over again till one day in fustration i accidentally tuned it on without the heatsink. Big fright at 11 at night with a very loud BIOS beep! I carefully put the heatsink back on, THROW the two switches and reboot it. No beep. I undo one of the clips and the BIOS beeps again. Do the clip back up and the machine stops working this is very annoying and after a little fiddling have been able to get it going with the clips on somehow for a few minutes to type this up...Congrats if the auto-saving part of this entry is part of firefox or part of the forum

Really hope someone can shed some light on this
KurtisNo Beeps Short, No power, Bad CPU/MB, Loose Peripherals
One Beep Everything is normal and Computer POSTED fine
Two Beeps POST/CMOS Error
One Long Beep, One Short Beep Motherboard Problem
One Long Beep, Two Short Beeps Video Problem
One Long Beep, Three Short Beeps Video Problem
Three Long Beeps Keyboard Error
Repeated Long Beeps Memory Error
Continuous Hi-Lo Beeps CPU Overheating

could be the PROCESSOR overheated?
and see this,
http://www.devhardware.com/c/a/Hardware-Guides/Applying-Thermal-Paste/All manuf. beep codes are not the same...

http://pcsupport.about.com/library/weekly/aa051103a.htmmy computer does beep at BIOS and it boots normal. Lol sorry should have been more specific...Sometimes the computer will boot fine and run for a while if i shift the heatsink in the tiniest of fashions. I have a ODD idea this CPU was overheated at some stage in its life and has expanded inside, and the contacts have been broken, and are only just touching, and when the pressure of the heatsink is applied it breaks that connection? Because I just tested it again with no clips on but just enough pressure to make it touch and it goes great but runs rather hot..45 degrees in idle. and when I increase the pressure on the CPU it goes so far until it just freezes completely.

Anybody else think this could be the issue? It would be alot easier if I had another CPU to test it with but the only other 478 i have is a 1.8Ghz and doesn't run in my board

Any confirmations would be great

Oh and when it doesn't boot up, the HDD light stays on, same as if I boot without a CPU in it at all

kurtisI don't believe it's the CPU at fault...i think it needs to be seated properly and i don't think the homemade clip is doing the job...OK Thanks guys I am hopefully receiving in the mail shortly a brand new 3Ghz P4 plus the heatsink + fan so we shall see then

KurtisCPU has disappeared from mail ...but I had another idea, Why not put the case on the side and take the clip off of the heatsink cover and just place the H/S on the cpu? And It's working like a charm Temperatures are actually lower than before on idle. 26* VS 39* and at full load 49* vs 60* So does anybody think maybe it is loose connections inside the CPU?

kurtis
Putting it on its side seems a little risky, the vibrations could over time encourage the heatsink to slide from off the top of the processor, plus not clipping it down doesn't give you the full potential. Placing the case on its side may also be messing with the temperature monitor, giving you false low readings.

And about that other CPU you ordered, I hope you're chasing up the company responsible. I've been ripped off by an internet delivery company once (due in part to my own laziness, but only in part).There are millions of machines that run fine on their side...Dell's come to mind for one.
Depending on where that clip broke the only option may be a new MBoard which may not be worth it on an older machine.

I had a tower machine that only behaved lying on it's side for some strange reason...i ran it like that for years before giving it away...That could be true oxy, But I have not had any crashes or similar yet, and the machine it working perfectly I just got a refund from PC-World(shop in Auckland) because they "had none in stock" apparently. But oh well. It wasnt the bracket that broke it was simply the piece with the two grey "switches" where it pushes the heatsink down onto the CPU. And I think it is definately reading the right temperature, as when it is removed for just one second it goes up to 60-65 and I quickly placed it back on and it dropped to 30 Degrees again.

This is a very weird situation for me partly because like you said, it should not be working to it's full potential, right? The thing is, its woking better than when it is clipped down...Oh and don't worry I check it every time i boot up and have Hmonitor Pro running with a warning temp of 50

Thanks HEAPS guys ur awesome Sorry to pull up an old subject, But I just placed the clip back on the H/S and placed the computer up the right way...and it seems to be working fine, but, the temperature has risen again to about 34-36 at idle. From what I gather, more pressure = more heat absorption due to more contact? very weird, and have had at no stage in its life any thermal paste applied to it. As said before, when placed on its side and the heatsink simply placed on it it stays stone cold, like I can shutdown, quickly life the H/S off and i cannot feel heat whatsoever!

Still very confused about this all...
Kurtis
Quote

and have had at no stage in its life any thermal paste applied to it.

Hello there. I recently fried a part of my motherboard due to improper handeling. My old Motherboard was a [link]http://www.digital-daily.com/motherboard/asus-p4p800-e/[/link]. Now I am trying to get the same thing or something similar to it. Any advice would be greatly apperciated.

Hardware Specs:
Pentium 4HT 3.4E 800mhz SB / 1MB L2 Cache
Nividia geforce 7800 series (AGP)
600w PSU
Case is a mid tower ATX / ATX micro, baby at
http://usa.asus.com/products4.aspx?modelmenu=2&model=184&l1=3&l2=12&l3=33

Would this be better or via?

need some input please I would buy a PCI-E motherboard that can take DDR2 memory and a dual core processor..

Although with the information you've given us, I am not sure what it is you're GOING to do with your PC.

But if I had to choose between those two boards I'd choose the 4P800-E because it has more PCI slots.Well, I found out that some of my processor pins are bent; seven of them to be exact. The pc technician told me there's a 50/50 chance of the CPU working because of the seven pins that are bent(the processor was stuck to the heatsink when he detached the heatsink).

The socket requirements are out of the question now but I need some help finding a motherboard that supports AGPx8 and PCI-E. Also, A Processor that is equivelent to what I listed above(P4 3.4E HT , 800 system bus, 1MB l Cache) or better.

Now, I meanly use the PC for gaming purposes. Any help is welcomed!Those pins might be able to be fixed i did this once for a customer.
Using a credit card CAREFULLY bend each pin in the direction they need.
Do only one pin at a time.
And do it in several small moves for each instead of bending them straight all at once.

Good Luck.
Be patient.

patio. 8-)Quote

The socket requirements are out of the question now but I need some help finding a motherboard that supports AGPx8 and PCI-E.

Also, I have two DDR512 pc2700 ram sticks and I Just want to make sure these are compatibile with the motherboard(I sound like a complete noob but I don't want to another problem occuring )

I really hope someone can help with this. I'm not great with computers, so please keep it simple. The problem is this:
I have a 16-month-old Gateway 6510GZ NOTEBOOK. Today, I had it on and was listening to some music. I wasn't doing anything else at the time-didn't even touch it-when suddenly it wasn't on anymore. I took it to the IT office on campus, but they weren't able to do anything except rule out the power cord and the battery as the source of the problem. Is there anything I can do about this, or should I give it up as dead?First of all....Does your college have a CS department?(IT) didn't do MUCH.

Do you know how to remove and reseat the ram?That information is at the below website.If that confuses you take it to a repair shop or the CS Lab at your college.(IT)- ain't usually trained well enough.That's why you have so many IT graduates and so few CS graduates.



Look at Replacing the Memory at below site.
http://support.gateway.com/s/Mobile/Gateway/6000Series/8510572.pdfI woiuld hold off on spending the cash on memory until we know the motherboard is functional. Laptops should probably be taken to a shop, unless you have a lot of experience in working on them. Quote

I woiuld hold off on spending the cash on memory until we know the motherboard is functional. Laptops should probably be taken to a shop, unless you have a lot of experience in working on them.

I have a new ESC 915PL-A2 motherboard, new processor, new SATA POWER supply, new SATA hard drive and because the mothervboard came without video, a new BioStar Genforce 6200LE GPU graphics card.

The first Graphics card WOULD not work so
after the BioStar tech said it might be bad I returned it (costing me $6.50) and received a new one. The new one also refuses to produce an image in the monitor.

It comes with a driver CD but of course without Windows on it it will not load the drivers. I can't load Windows because I have no working monitor.

The monitor light comes on and the card is inserted and locked in firmly.

What is the work around for this situation?

SandyYour motherboard, 915PL-A2 (V3.1B), RIGHT? Which PCI Express slot did you install the card in, the top/red one or the blue one? Does that card require a separate power cord be connected to it? Quote from: soybean on September 24, 2007, 07:08:07 PM

Does that card require a separate power cord be connected to it?

is there a way to mod my PC to transform into a gaming CONSOLE?(gamecube)I know it doesn't REALLY contribute, but I must ask... Why? :-/

FlameI have tons of gamecube games I want to play on my PC. I could try emulating gamecube games, but I can't afford an ethernet adapter and I can't mod it; it's not mine. I'm trying to figure out what to do with two PENTIUM IIIs that will be unused. I guess I could spend about $30 and fix one of them up to be a server. Again, not sure how to do that.I THINK you need to worry more about your video card graphics

Flamei would just go for ROMS and an emulater.Wouldn't it be more expensive to mod your PC than to buy an ethernet adapter?Quote

Wouldn't it be more expensive to mod your PC than to buy an ethernet adapter?

i would just go for ROMS and an emulater.

I've got an HP Pavilion ze1210 and it has this port on the left side which looks like something I've seen someone put a wireless card in before. I just want to be able to pick up a wireless SIGNAL from a hot SPOT or something, I do not have the service. Is that card all I need? If so, what is it called?

Thank you,
Hoop2077Many laptops nowadays have built in wireless
If not, then yes, a wireless card is all you need, but most hotspots you have to pay for
The card would be a PCMCIA wireless card, or a PC Card for older laptops
The alternative is a USB wireless adapterThis laptop is an old ONE and doesn't have the built in wireless. So, it looks like I'm off for a wireless card.

Thank for your help,
Hoop2077No problem, just check you have the right slot and that the one you choose is compatibleI thought PC cards and PCMCIA cards are the same. GUESS not.

Hello everyone

I want to buy a new RAM for my computer ! what I need to know is ( The RAM Bus speed should be equal to motherboard bus speed of faster ) is this STATEMENT correct ?

my motherboard bus is PC133 incase of buying a RAM 3200 will that gonna work ?

Thanks
Travel to crucial.com and enter your INFO and it will TELL you what type of RAM that machine takes...If you've PC133, thats what you're gonna need to put in there.

Good luck!
Hoop2077If you're mobo is a PC133 it is probably made for SDRAM. And if you want PC3200 (DDR SDRAM) that probably won't work. Still, TRY out the site mentioned.

First off, this is my computer...
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/documen...t=390429&dlc=en

I'm upgrading my video card to either an ATI x1300 or a geforce 6800xt depending on how much power I can put into my computer. I figure the geforce will still run with less power but it might inversely affect how the computer itself runs.

My question is, how much power can I put into this computer? I was told by my manufacturer (hp/compaq) that my motherboard can only handle 350w without causing it any harm, but my FRIENDS say they never heard of such a limitation and it sounds like they are trying to sell to me.

I've had BAD experiences with hp technical support actually lying to me over the phone in the past so I'm hesitent to trust them, thats why I am here. Any help is appreciated

First, I couldn't get the link to work, but oh well... The power supply doesn't really have anything to do with the motherboard. The motherboard has a special socket for the power supply, and whatever power the board wants, it gets. As long as your power supply has enough power, it will power anything else you hook up to it no matter what the motherboard says. I'm not sure who you talked to, but if he's correct in that you do have a 350 watt power supply, you'll be fine as long as you haven't ALREADY filled the tower with hard drives and DVD burners.

Hoop2077Quote

I was told by my manufacturer (hp/compaq) that my motherboard can only handle 350w without causing it any harm

Ok I have a major problem here, I am a 3d graphics animator and my computer seems to not like me doing this. Now with that said it seems my computer just hates 3d all together. As soon as I start up any sort of 3d video it will completely lock up. In fact I am lucky if the VPU recover will even kick in to return it to windows. I've found that I have to make it screw up right away in order to use it for anything else. And even then the 3d wont work PROPERLY or at all.

Also on top of that it seems my motherboard doesn’t like to read the ide cables too much. Major problem if your trying to well use a cd/dvd rom or even your hard DRIVES. Now I know I have to replace my motherboard entirely. But I want to know if that is the only THING broke on this POS.

In the past this computer has spited me ever since I started building it. Yes I have checked to see if each RAM spot works, I have also have tried both pci-express slots. The inside is completely cool everything inside is cold, that is except for the heat sink, but that of course should be HOT..

Also if anyone knows of what type of motherboard I should buy I would love your tips. I want something that has four RAM spots, dual video card option, and also the four IDE option. All the new raid options are cool and all but I am trying to upgrade as little as possible right now.


I don’t know if I've given enough information but at this point I'm stumped.

Intel Pentium 4
cpu 3.20 Ghz
3 Gigs of RAM

Service pack 2
Windows XP
2 western digital hard drives
one 320 the other 160
I have the 320 partitioned so 30 gigs is for the operating system
direct x9


motherboard
asus p5nd2 - sli deluxe

ati video card
all in wonder pro x600


I have also gone through all of the websites to pretty much try each version of their drivers but nothing works. Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance.
I'd test the RAM before I did anything else on that machine.
http://www.memtest86.com/I did, all three sticks work. They also work on this computer.I'd bet it was DX. it's a horribly unstable ENGINE where anything can disrupt it.

I am having problems with my modem. I have a windows xp computer with a dial-up connection. every time i try to connect to the internet, my computer FREEZES up. i hear the dial tone and the "noise" that follows it, but when it trys to connect to the internet, the pc freezes up. i cant even do a control+alt+delete. i have to hold the power button so the the pc goes off. i tried several modems, even installing a new one, but the problem is the same. with each modem i installed, i query the modem in the diagnostics section of the modem properties and everything is fine. in the general section of the modem properties it says "This DEVICE is working PROPERLY." i then started troubleshooting with the windows troubleshoot, answering every QUESTIONS, and it said to check the COMMUNICATIONS port. i check the properties in the communications port and it also says "This device is working properly." i dont know what else to do. HELP.Need...more...info...gasp

When did this start happening / any new software installed / firewall on? / tried booting into Safe Mode w/networking and dialing out / tried Hyperterminal?

Alan <>< who is your isp?
have you asked them for help?
if you have are you using and inserted the correct dialup number, username and password?

if there is a space inserted wrongly or a dot or comma or a capitol letter in the wrong place the hangshake will not be accepted.

the noises you hear the dialup number tones calling the server then there is a hand shake( which is the scratchy sounds) which consists of the user name and password for confirmation,then it should latch on after that.

Hi,

I am a beginning guitarist and I caught an M-audio Jam Lab for sale at a compusa the other day. BASICALLY it allows me to connect and play my electric guitar through my computer. The thing works great!

The problem is if I try to use my STEREO computer speakers to play my guitar there is a delay. There is a headphone jack on the Jam Lab UNIT that I use right now with no delay. But is there any way I can configure my sound card to play my guitar input with no delay?

If worse comes to worse I had the idea of run a 3.5mm audio cable from the headphone jack on the jam lab directly into my sound card. Would this work?

Just FYI I'm using a Philips sound card with 5.1 surround sound support. It has a line-in port so that won't be a problem. My MOTHER board also has a built-in sound card that supports surround, and I can use that as well.

Thanks,

Matt

can i use the usb y cable to attach a portable HARD drive to 2 computersNo.
2 machines cannot access the same drive at one time...even if they could havoc would ensue...ok would it work for a dongle?
nope
You can BUY a swtich though that will switch it between your computers. Sometimes rubbing magnets all over your hard drive will make it work though, try that

ignore this.Deep do not give advice that could potentially damage users hardware. Next offense you'll be permanently banned.Gee thats good advice, NOT Sure rub a MAGNET and erase all your data not to MENTION risk damaging the heads or motor. It's all in how USB works. I SUPPOSE you could downconvert a USB2.0 signal using a complex array of latches and SIPOs, but that's for the hardware designers to do. Like deep said though, you can buy a switch, or if you can attach it to a network that would work.

does ONBOARD video have 1024x768 resolution ? or do i have to get a agp one or is a pci one better ?
Sure it can have it onboard. AGP and PCI video cards are better but,
you need to know your PSU limitations.

If you have a small amount of ram things get worse with the onboard
video hogging up your memory.

Can't tell you more unless you list your computers Specs.



Off-Topic:Hi-Diddle-Dee-De (An ACTORS Life For Me) SNAP!Nowadays even the lowest end GRAPHICS cards are capable of displaying resolutions higher than 1024x768. The card should show its maximum resolution on its box/website/etc.a rez of 1024x768x32bit takes only 3MB. The same rez with linux only takes 2.25MB (32bit vs 24bit) ALMOST ALL modern integrated graphics can ACHEIVE at LEAST 1280x1024x32bit. (5MB)

Ok

I just bought a new ATI All-IN-Wonder video CARD. The MODEL is x1300, it supports DVI, dual monitor, has a TV tuner, composite out, 256 mb ram ETC...

Anyway I wanted to watch tv on my computer. Unfortunately I don't have a coax long enough to reach from my cable jack to my computer. So instead I hooked my coaxial cable into my VCR then used the composite outputs to connect to my video card.

It worked. I got the cable signal but many of the channels have terrible reception and some of the normal channels I watch will not COME in at all.

I think just need to get a longer coax cable for a direct hook-up I believe this will remedy the problem. I just wanted to get a SECOND opinion before I spent the money.

Thanks,

MattGrab a brand called Monster Cable....Best Buy or other big house Comp store...they are thin and very light...ideal for tuner cards.When you connect through the VCR, you must set the tuner card to channel 3 or 4 (whatever your VCR output is) and use the VCR to tune channels. Otherwise, you will need a direct connection.

hi i put in another cd-rw DRIVE from a different computer the ide cord properly connected and it dosent show up in my computer and so i SWITCHED the two ide cords and it STILL shows the original one. the power is working i can eject the tray. i went into bios to set it into the start up but it only will do auto is there something im MISSING. thanksdoes it show up in the BIOS?I'm far from an expert, but maybe the problem is the jumper settings are not right on the new drive. I think you need to have the new one set up as a slave. Pull out the new device, look for a sticker and a series of pins with (hopefully) a plastic thingo. The plastic thingo needs to go into place according to how the sticker says designates a slave. Then try again. (I hope that is clear ENOUGH and not dangerous, no doubt someone else will explain it better if it is the problem).

Quote

but maybe the problem is the jumper settings are not right on the new drive.

HI all,
Just got a new GEforce card and I am told than my power supply needs UPGRADING, what I am trying to find out is that I have a CABLE that is not on my new supply, there are 3 cables a white, blue and black in a small brown connector that gos onto the m/broad just above the power supply 20/24 connector.
any help and I would be very grateful
Thanks
Ned
ps I LEFT this connector off and the pc seems to run OK !! could it be some sort of sensor, over heating of the power supply maybe !! and if so do I need it
pps My pc is a sony VAIO PCV RX514 decktopSounds like that may be for the CPU fan. As long as you have a fan on your processor... and it's spinning, you're ok. That could ALSO be for a case fan.

Hoop2077Hi Hoop, Thanks for that,
Just had a LOOK and both CPU and power supply fans are running.
Ned
and thanks again

So i've been working on a clients computer. they are having random restarts. it doesn't seem to have any particular time or event when it occurs. i have checked event viewer, as well as ran extensive, memory and CPU tests. i have swapped out the PSU for a known good one to no avail. the computer will not shut down if you are running a test off a bootable cd or if in bios, but will shut down if in windows? could this be the hard drive itself? any help would be appreciated. this is running windows XP Pro. pentium 4 system, 256 mb ram, pretty basic system. Thanks.First travel to Control Panel/System/Advanced/Startup and Recovery...uncheck auto restart on errors which is on by default.
Now instead of random restarts you should now get the wonderful BSOD error screens...
Write down the entire message and post it here...it will help narrow things down in the diagnosis.

p.s. Another very common cause of restarts are heat issues. Remove a cover and see how dirty it is inside...check to see all fans are operating properly.
If it is dirty use a can of compressed air to clean all heatsinks and fans. Use a QTip to hold the fan blades in place while you are blasting them.Its not too hot, i've eliminated that. all fans heat sink and processor are clear and cool. i also reseated the cpu, with new paste to insure this. i cannot get far enough into windows at this point to turn that feature off. or i would have. thanks for the reminder though. also do you think this could be caused by the hard drive?
Quote

it doesn't seem to have any particular time or event when it occurs. i have checked event viewer,

i cannot get far enough into windows at this point to turn that feature off

All right,

I just reformatted my hard drive and re-installed everything. I installed the software for my motherboard, I updated my drivers and have the latest version of direct X installed.

Unfortunately, now I cannot start up any of my games. They automatically crash. I went into dxdiag and tested the Direct Draw and Direct 3D. The Direct 3D is unable to finish the tests and displays an error. In dxdiag my driver versions and direct x versions look correct. I cannot figure out why I am unable to run games.

Anyway, thank you for the help. I took a look around the forum, but didn't see anything that would help me with this problem.alright....what KIND of games?what the system requirement for the games?does it need a graphic card?
Most of games need it Some info about the machine in question would be GOOD right about now...Quote from: patio on September 25, 2007, 03:53:50 PM

Some info about the machine in question would be good right about now...

I have a PCMCIA ethernet ADAPTER I use to connect to my LAN and the internet. I bought a WIRELESS adapter but it won't go in the port. When I looked at them close up, I noticed a small difference. (look at attached pic)will you please explain your pic? what view is it in?Thats what it looks like if you look straight at the side thats supposed to go into the port, the one with all the holes in it. Is it supposed to be like that? Or can I grind off the part thats not letting me stick it in there? If I do, will it fry the port?Im sorry, im not familier with wireless ethernet adaptors.
Where exactly are u trying to plug it into, inside ur case, or on the outside near the USB plugins?

In any case, each device can ONLY be fit into a specific plugin, u cannot grind anything off and expect it to work.It could be the difference in a Type1 and TYPE2 slot...they are not interchangeable i believe.

patio. 8-)modifying hardware is NEVER a good thing unless you are very educated in what you are doing.Well I decided to try it. Nothing got fried But when I try to install the drivers when its almost done a little window POPS up and says "ErrNo 22" I also tried to install it using the new hardware wizard but Windows says there are no drivers for this device on the CD. The little light just flashes on the card.I think "Err22" says it all... If they wanted you to PUT that card in that slot, it probably would have been easier. But I guess we'll find out

Hoop2077