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Hi everyone!
My Seagate 3Tb HDD makes a WEIRD noise whenever I turn on and plug in. It does that noise until it finally stops. It stays open but the drive is not spinning anymore.
Here is a sample of the noise. It goes on like for about a minute. Is there a way to acces data since it is not showing or being detected by any devices nor programs. I have all my datas saved on it like travel pictures, documents, MUSIC, etc.
What do you think?
https://youtu.be/GLq6SsQR9c0Hi

When a hard drive makes that noise it has a damaged head or heads. As it is a 3 TB it is likely to have 6 heads which REQUIRE a special tool to replace. You need a company like Kroll Ontrack or Drive Savers who have the tools and a good selection of DONOR heads. It is not something you can fix yourself and any attempts could make the SITUATION worse.

Hi,

Please ACCEPT my apologies if this has been covered extensively before. Solutions for others do not work for me.

I was gifted a new HDD (Firegate 500GB hybrid) and am attempting installation on an Toshiba Satellite Pro L50A but its not going to plan. Prior to this the system was running Win 10 installed on the original Toshiba HDD without issue.

With original HDD in-situ the I accessed the BIOS and set the BOOT order to USB first. I created a Win 10 USB boot using the Microsoft media creation tool. I tested this USB on 2 systems and was taken to the install prompts as expected so I understand that the boot media is functional.

With the new HDD installed however there is no recognition of the USB. Ive tried all of the USB ports. It is resorting to boot via ethernet and I'm getting the following error message:

Check cable connection!
PXE-M0F: Exiting Intel PXE ROM

Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key

Furthermore, I am ALSO unable to access the BIOS with this HDD installed.

Re-installation of the original HDD fixes it all.

Any advice is much APPRECIATED.
 I'd SUGGEST replacing the cmos battery and resetting the bios. Then try booting. The bios doesn't care if there is a hd installed, so that has nothing to do with anything.

MOBO -Steel Legend B450
CPU - Ryzen 3500x
GPU - Vega 64 srtix oc
RAM - 16g Balistx 3200
PSU - aerocool p7 750w Platinum
WIN 10



Hey.

Iv'e recently upgraded my gpu from an rx 580 to a Vega 64.
Since the upgrade my computer will completely shut down anywhere from 5-30 mins of playing games (only beamng drive).
This did not happen with the 580.

the Vega is USED of ebay.

At first i thought it was the gpu shutting down under load.
Iv'e stress tested successfully with furmark and everything passed on Burnintest.
Iv'e tried undervolting the gpu/cpu with no luck, although while undervolting, the crash would take longer to occur. So i thought maybe the PSU didn't have enough juice. But the PSU fan is supposed to start at 60% load, which it never did. Also i would have thought 750w (62 12v) would be fine.
Using a PSU calculator, a 550 PSU was apparently the minimum for my system.
Tried old and new drivers with no luck.

My temps before shutdown were fine, sub 75-gpu, sub 60-cpu

When running occt my system would crash within about a minute.



I don't know whether its the gpu or psu or whatever.

I am getting a 550w psu and a actual new gpu to test with in a few DAYS.

Is there a way to be identify the culprit when they ARRIVE?



sorry for the long read.
help would be appreciated.

Thanks.Most likely the used GPU...many of those have been used for mining...and are SHOT. Quote from: patio on April 07, 2020, 11:04:52 AM

Most likely the used GPU...many of those have been used for mining...and are shot.

To be sure ? ?...tell them it's junk and i said so...
Personally i would never buy a used card...

Hey GUYS, i really hope you can help me out on this one.

I built this SYSTEM from scratch just last week and it was working perfectly until today. I accidentally fell asleep while the computer was still on. This afternoon i wanted to turn it back on but nothing happened. And the LED-Switch on my power strip turned off and wouldn’t put out any power anymore - turns out my pc somehow fried it?

Upon further inspection and a replacement power strip (which didnt break) i noticed that the fans would barely start moving for a split second. But only on the first boot attempt after reconnecting the pc to the power outlet. Any attempts after that would result in complete silence and no signs at all.

I‘ve tried resetting the CMOS and disconnecting the drives, ram and gpu seperately. The only thing that had an effect was resetting the CMOS by removing the mobos battery for a minute. After that the system didn’t show any sign of life, no LEDs no fans moving - nothing...

So this is where im at now. I really really hope you guys can help me out here.

My guess is that it’s the power supplys fault but i also have no clue as to why and would like to know for sure before taking any further steps.

Parts list:

ASUS PRIME X570 Pro
Ryzen 9 3900x
RX 57000 XT Thicc 3 Ultra
2x8GB RAM Corsair Vengeance 3600mhz
NZXT Kraken X72
NZXT H710i
Corsair CX750M
250GB Samsung Boot SSD
1TB WD Blue HDD

i have speakers CONNECTED to my pc it has a usb and aux if i make the volume higher with the tuning knob the static becomes louder its not a software issue cause even when i disable the speakers the noise still stays.
if i use the speakers on something else this problem does not occur.
even if i plug the usb in a usb connector in a outlet it doesnt occur.
if i put the aux in another device it doesnt happen either(so i would think the usbs give enough power)
so it only happends when both aux and usb are connected to my pc.
does anybody knows how this comes and how to fix it, i dont want to waste a outlet for the usb connection.Good day Brent,

From what you have said in your post the most likely cause of the noise is a noisy 5V rail on the computer. DEPENDING on the motherboard this could be the main power supply or one of the many power supplies on the motherboard itself. If it is the main power supply then it would be best if you REPLACED it, HIGH levels of noise can cause other problems other than the noise in the speakers.
Could you please post more DETAILS of the computer to confirm this diagnoses

Hello,
I have a Epson WF-2540 All in one and it is not PRINTING, I've clean the print head, and EVERYTHING you can do to it and it still won't print.  New ink CARTRIDGE in all 4. PLEASE help!

I've been having issues with my computer for the past few months due to periodic stuttering. Every minute or so, the computer's audio and CURSOR will stutter for a split second. It's really jarring especially since I listen to a lot of music. I've tried seemingly everything to fix the issue including:
- Uninstalling my Nvidia drivers and reinstalling them
- Disabling "dynamictick" in Command Prompt
- Disabling any services I don't need in services.msc
- Disabling any startup programs that might affect performance
- Disabling "high precision event timer" in Device Manager

Does anyone know what might be the problem? What's weird is that sometimes my computer is fine while others it's stuttering what feels like every minute.

LatencyMon has shown that I'm getting large latency spikes. I'm not sure if this has any correlation, but I'll post the results anyway.



Here are my computer specs in case anyone was curious. It's an old computer tower I bought back in 2011 with a few upgrades over the YEARS. A bit dated, but the computer was working fine up until the stuttering became a problem.

Hello

There is a couple of things the H61 chipset in your computer did have problems with drop outs using the ethernet port on Windows 10. Does your Dell have wireless if so do you experience the problem with using wireless with the ethernet disabled ?

Also there is 2 updated drivers you may not have found here  https://www.dell.com/support/home/nz/en/nzbsd1/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=4dgwn

Also was the Windows 10 an upgrade or a clean install. If it was a clean install is the device manager clear exclamation marks ? Quote from: Lisa_maree on April 10, 2020, 10:34:04 PM

Hello

There is a couple of things the H61 chipset in your computer did have problems with drop outs using the ethernet port on Windows 10. Does your Dell have wireless if so do you experience the problem with using wireless with the ethernet disabled ?

Also there is 2 updated drivers you may not have found here  https://www.dell.com/support/home/nz/en/nzbsd1/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=4dgwn

Also was the Windows 10 an upgrade or a clean install. If it was a clean install is the device manager clear exclamation marks ?

Thanks for the reply.

I wonder if you have any way to test the Hard drive. There is a program Benchme which will test the hard drive speed it's available from here http://www.benchbench.com/
Can you run this please and post some screen captures.
Also if you could post the link to the whole speccy report using File then publish report and copy the link address to the report here.

Thanks for the info,

The benchme result is a little bit slower than i would expect on your machine. If you run it a few times do the results change. Areas on the disk at 115 ms access time is very poor and would suggest there is a lot to be gained by replacing the hard drive. As your 2 Tb Seagate external drive and the 1 tb internal drive are almost full. It is a lot of data to fit somewhere. The speccy report doesn't show any thing which would be causing the problem.

My feeling is it is a computer designed for Windows 7 upgraded or now running Windows 10 you could start spending money on it but maybe it would be easier to look at a new computer.

Alright, i have quite the peculiar problem. I started off with a clean install of windows. I am now running on windows ver 1709. Basically, I've tried to install the latest NVIDIA driver for my asus gtx 780 gpu, but everytime it's installing, my computer blacks out, restarts, and the driver is not installed.

I successfully installed it in safe mode, but when i try to start my computer normally, it wouldn't start, instead, it tells me that windows didn't load correctly. Once this happens, i have no choice but to go back into safe mode, DDU and RESTART. My gpu fan is still working and the INDICATOR lights are green.

It's as if installing the display driver crashes windows and causes it to not load correctly, and removing it in safe mode allows me to boot normally. If the community COULD help me so that i can use my gpu normally, that'll be great. Thanks.1) I deleted your nonsense comment. Not welcome on this site.

2) From where are you obtaining the driver you're trying to install (please share the link)?

3) Make & model of computer?And quit usin DDU...it's garbage.Was the card running OK before the upgrade to 1709 ?. If so and you haven't changed anything in the computer. Then you have the well documented  problem with drivers for your graphics card and Windows 10. Back in 2017 when 1709 was released and this problem was reported they worked on trying to find a solution but without result. I can only suggest you get a Windows 10 compatible card.

I  am running Windows Ten Pro 64.

 

I have been trying to use my Canon EOS 1200D DSLR as a Webcam on SKYPE. I can see the other PERSON but they can't see me. I have the latest Canon EOS Utility 2 INSTALLED. Any ideas?Skype's fault...
LOOK it up

So, I have an old system (HP z220) and recently got myself a capture card but having problems installing it as I know nothing about computers... I want to put it under my gpu however it will not fit I. The brackets without me taking the BACK off I’m guessing, is there any way round this or would I have to dismantle the whole computer? Here is a picture of it, if this helps. Thanks https://imgur.com/a/I2DGFWoPress down on the two green tabs, They should then rotate outwards through the HOLES in the CASE and ALLOW removal of the clamp/bracket that is in place holding in the expansion CARDS. Then you can add your new card and put the clamp and tabs back in position.

If I try to print anything nothing happens, even though there's a file is in the queue.

The top off the queue window has HP Photosmart C3100 SERIES - Use Printer Offline. I tried doing something about that but my hardware knowledge is very limited.

A second problem is whenever I turn on the printer a test page is automatically printed. In the past I've just left it on to avoid this. Then it BECOMES a trade off of
saving INK at the cost of electricity and eventually it just gets turned off.

In the queue Window UNCHECK "Use printer offline" under the "Printer" menu.

From what I can find, the printer will print an alignment page when it DETECTS the ink cartridges were changed. However, if that fails, it will try it again the next time it turns on. So it seems the alignment is failing.Is that an easy fix or a hardware problem?

Hope this is the right place.

I have a USB stick. A newer version Windows 10 was put on it months ago because windows would not update, so that way I could just install it off the usb.

So the PROBLEM now is I wan to erase that and replace it by putting the most recent version of Windows 10 on that USB because the one that is already on it is outdated.

Here's the problem:
When I plug the USB stick in, it makes the noise that a new device is CONNECTED, but it will not show up anywhere.
I have tried diskpart, it does not show up.
Does not show up anywhere else at all.
Tried uninstalling USB DRIVERS and letting them reinstall via device manager, no difference - but I don't think that's the problem.
When I put in another usb with docs and other various files on it, that WILL show up.
I also have a second usb stick which also has windows bootable on it, again an older version, and that one will also not show up anywhere either including under diskpart, just like the first one. So I suspect it has something to do with those being bootable windows since the documents usb works FINE. So It doesn't seem to be the port, and the sticks should be fine too because the computer does make a sound when connecting and removing ALL of them, and they are 2 different manufacturer sticks. It's just the ones that have windows bootable on them that won't show up, so I can't erase them and put an updated version on one of them.

I want to try and get this resolved first. I was told to do this because windows update keeps failing and we tried it multiple ways.

For me, this is the last attempt to get this updated and see if that resolves the CRASHES I've been getting. So I need help please. My budget is low, so I really can't afford to just keep buying usb sticks. I want to just write over the one with the old windows version and put the updated one on it.

Can anyone give me instructions please how to clean the boot usb so I can put the new Windows on it SAP please?

Second question:
If I can get this done, and then still have the same problems as before after updating Windows 10 (if I can), I'm thinking to try Tails with an Windows emulator for my games and would need help with that - if I do that, would I be able to get help here?

Thanks very much. Have a wonderful, healthy day.

Hello users

Can anyone tell me a website where i can find a list of DELL PRECISION TOWER workstations by their release DATES

Hi

I have a Asus Nvidia GTX 760 graphics card that has an 8 pin FEMALE power socket.  I have a DA2 dell portable power adapter (brick) that has an 8 pin male connection.  they wont connect , as the plugs in there are setup differently...see pics.


I dont want to buy another PSU for my COMPUTER haha.


I would love to know if there is an existing CABLE out there that can bridge these 2, and power the graphics card.  can anyone link me to an existing cable, or point out what i should be searhing for PLEASE?


Thanks in advance

Hi, When I boot my PC the screen is not visible and is covered in a chevron like pattern. I have attached a picture taken with my phone. Does anyone know what might cause this. Thanks.
Andrew 1) What is new or different since the last TIME everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?
2) What happens when you boot to safe mode?Hi, If I can manage to restart windows then it is okay. I have to MUDDLE around to try to click on the restart button and then second time around everything is okay. I booted into safe mode and that was okay too. I have attached the details of my display.
I get this problem almost immediately after I start my computer. I wondered if it was possibly malicious? I haven't changed anything recently. 
Andrew
If it works okay in safe mode it's probably related to the driver or something else starting when Windows loads. Did you recently update or install a new driver?Hi, Thanks. I haven't changed anything in the past few months. Will look at what drivers are installed. AndrewTry going into device manager and ROLLING back the driver for your display adapter. Alternatively, assuming it's a desktop pc, go to the website of the display adapter OEM and download and install their current driver. Let's see if EITHER of those options helps.Hi Thanks, I will do that. It might be a little while before I can though. After I restart my pic every day it is okay. We are all working at home at the moment because of the coronavirus and, not being very experienced with hardware, can't afford to totally screw it up at the moment.  I have a CHEAP Lenovo laptop. 
Thanks again.
Andrew If it's a laptop, you need to obtain the driver from the Lenovo website.

My two computers, both HP with windows 10 will not play through a specific pair of external speakers. The newest one (2 years old) won't even recognize two different sets. The older computer I'm on now with a 2 year old hard drive will recognize them but they still won't make any sound. Both of these are jack speakers and the PC I'm on now has a 3 piece speaker system that when hooked up work fine. It's pure bumfuzzling. I've tried updating DRIVERS to my audio codec but KEEP getting and error say it failed. I've also tried uninstalling Hi-definition audio controller and restarting the PC to no avail.Could you give us the model of "specific pair of external speakers." And what is the 3 piece speaker system which works?.

Thank you  The 3 piece that does work is Gigaware, the 2 pieces that registers but still doesn't play is Labtech and the pair that don't even register doesn't have a name, just a logo which I can't even describe. The best I can describe the logo is an A with a line coming from the yop of the A pointing left. Coming out of the middle side of the A pointing left looks like a small microphone. Could be Alpine but more than likely not. BTW, it doesn't matter whether they're plugged into the back or front.Lisa_maree, what say you now?Hi jbubb

I asked for the model of speakers you gave the make, as an example Labtech make lots of different models of speaker. The fact you have 1 set that works The Gigaware suggests it is not a windows/computer problem more likely a speaker compatibility issue. Do both computers work with HEADPHONES ?.   Also what happens when you test the speakers with music from a cell phone or MP3 player. Also check the audio output is REALTEK HD audio or similar not HDMI.
 Both PCs do play with headsets, The newer computer doesn't recognize two of the THREE sets of speakers and the older one recognizes the Labtech but won't play through them. The output is Realtek. I haven't tried them on a cell phone.Lisa_maree, this is very frustrating, is there no solution?The computers are working ok with headsets and as you are plugging the speakers into the same place on the computer it has to be a problem with the speakers or the cables you are using with the speakers.
As i can't see how things are connected perhaps you could upload some photos. Also we still don't know if the speakers which don't work on the computers are actually working.
 I.ve hooked them up in two different spots on each computer. On the back trying every plug opening and in the front where the Gigaware speakers do work.

Hi, so a couple of months ago I BUILT myself a new computer, everything was great, but recently for no reason, at random times it will freeze, and I have to restart it, can someone help me, please Everything freezes, the ICUE controlled lights, the screen, the game, discord, ETC, it will come back to life for a seconds or two every now and then but that's it, I was ankle to check task manager during one of the freezes and everything seemed normal.Sorry about my spelling, I was nervous yesterday lol, but I forgot to say that my computer has:
Ryzen 9 3900x
Corsair H100i AIO
32GB G.Skill TridentZ ram
MSI Geforce RTX 2080 super
Corsair MP510 480GB (Has OS on it)
Corsair MP510 1920GB
WD Blue 2000GB HD

Not sure if that's helpful but just in case lolwhat about CPU temperature under load? I.e. gaming for example.
Does the issue still occur in safe mode?share some images inside of your PC full board covered image mainly the cooling side


 
important {don't use FLASH light while taking photo} Listen to the FAN and see if you think its working as it should. I had that with my PC and it was dust around the fan and also its bearing needed a tiny drop of WD40. Also check the Fan on the Graphics Card.

Hey i wanted to BUY a new gaming RIG for around 800. I live in Greece so not EVERYTHING is available here. What i was thinking of buying is:
CPU: Ryzen 5 3600
GPU: GTX 1650 OC 4GB (subject to change)
MOBO: Gigabyte Motherboard B450M Ds3H
RAM: 2x8GB Vengeance 2666MHz DDR4
PSU: Corsair 550 VS Series W80+
Storage 1x 250 SSD 1x1TB HDD
any changes are welcome this came around 830Euros (with case and extra cooling) but my MAX is 1000Euros

Thanks in advance!

Hi, so I am planning to upgrade to a RTX 2070 super but I only have 600 watts of PSU, can it run the RTX 2070 super?Depending on what else you have in your system that's drawing power (for instance, how much RAM you have and HW many HDDs you are running) as well as the quality of the power supply (can it really deliver that wattage), 600W could be enough.I have 16 GB of Ram and 2 HDDSWhat PSU ? ?
PSU is evga BQ 600WIt's not a great PSU, but it will do the job, yeah, you're good to go Eric.

I am looking for a budget Windows 10 laptop that is COMPATIBLE to USE with my LG 4k UHD smart tv as a monitor.. My older Acer laptop worked with my older flat screen tv which was not a smart tv or 4k, but when I hooked my older Acer laptop to the LG 4k UHD smart tv, the tv screen has intermittent flicker and/or screen goes BLACK for a second or two every few minutes. I'm not a gamer, I only use laptop for streaming movies, surfing web and email purposes, but want to continue to be able to use my LG 4k UHD smart tv as the monitor. Please advise what COMPUTER characteristics I would need that would allow tm to connect flawlessly to my LG 4k UHD smart tv without the flicker and intermittent screen blackouts.

hi, i have a toshiba SATELLITE that is driving me crazy, i am not a computer expert but i have tried everything i know such as troubleshioting the charger, battery, ram, cooling SYSTEM and nothing seems to be the ISSUE , it turns on and shows the toshiba SCREEN then immediatly shuts down, sometimes it doesnt even show it , and sometimes i dont know how but it turns on and works just likr a normal laptop for an hour or more then goes to sleep mode and turns off and it starts shutting down at bootup again , i have no idea what could be causing this weird behavior since it sometimes works LIKE all parts are ok and working great and sometimes it just wont bootup like theres a faulty part, i would love to hear any help or guidance from you and please tell mr if you need more information , thank you very much in advance

Hello. I have a lodger who moved out about a YEAR ago who has never come back to get her things (who owes me rent!). She left a Microsoft surface behind. I'm thinking I should sell it but I don't KNOW how much it is WORTH. How do I tell which model Microsoft Surface it is? Nothing is written on it and it's password protected so I can't get into it.

How would I sell it? Do I take it to a computer shop and they will get past the password and WIPE it clean for me?

Thanks for any help. Sarah.

Hi there. I recently moved my system into a new case, specifically the BeQuiet! Dark Base Pro Rev 2. While I was doing it, I reseated my CPU with a fresh coat of Arctic silver, and since then, I've been getting Bsods about ones a day with the old chestnut of Hal, Pshed and ntoskrnl showing up on my bluescreenview minidump files. I've had this before, and when I did, reinstalling windows fixed it permanently. This time, well, it's been three weeks and I'm still getting the problem. It's not an overheating issue, because I'm seeing the CPU temp and it's never peaking idle over 35C, or over 45C under load (I USE a AIO liquid cooler). First it seemed LIKE it would be RAM, but memtest is coming up clean. I've got all overclocking disabled on the BIOS/UEFI level, no software based overclocking installed in the whole system. Malware bytes paid licenses comes up cleak, chkdsk comes up clean. I went one by one in my device manager and all drivers are up to date. I even rest my CMOS for good measure, and my BIOS is the latest that ASUS has for my board.

So, if my RAM is good, my temps are good, my driver are good, my Win 10 install is fresh, my thoughts are that either the CPU or the Mainboard is damaged, possible a pin, but I can't see any obvious damage.

BSODS mostly happen while not under load. I can run RDR2 for hours and hours just fine, but watching youtube videos seems to trigger it, sometimes just REGULAR browsing too with no streaming video. I experimented with underclocking the RAM, and that gave me a three day relief, but today I got another BSOD. I've been leaving the system with a infinite youtube stream in my browser (thanks Giant Bomb Infinite) and It crashed two hours after I left it alone while at work.

I would really rather not have to replace my mainboard, or worse, my CPU, but I kinda think that's all that is left. Any thoughts, suggestions of comments on things I may have missed? I'll attach my DXDIAG and I tried my minidump, it's too big, so where is a snip of my minidump on Bluescreenview.

Thank you for anything you might have for me.Bump and update. It hasn't bsod in three days now, but that might not mean it's fixed itself, so any OPINIONS are still very much APPRECIATED. I'll be stress testing this weekend. If I've got to replace either the MB or CPU, then I figure I might as well upgrade to a comet lake i7 tenth gen and LGA 1200 socket MB, because if a swap is needed, might was well make it an upgrade too. But I'm hoping not to need to as this MB and CPU are only a year old themselves and I don't NEED to upgrade yet. Again, any thoughts, even just to point out something I may have missed, would be greatly appreciated.

A couple of months ago I was playing a game on my REPUBLIC of Gamers GL753VD Notebook and suddenly a loud audible CLICK came from the laptop. Immediately the FRAME rate WENT from an average of 60fps to pretty much nothing and since then I have been unable to get any games playable I'm assuming this is a Hardware ISSUE but wondering and hoping anyone can point me in the right direction.

Hoping someone can help

I'm trying INSTALL 3sas drives on the above. They're PHYSICALLY installed and SHOW up in the Bios Config Utility under Unconfigured Physical Disks as  "ready" but pressing f2  for the menu to create virtual discs does nothing. Anyone know anything about this?  Is there something else I need to do first?

Thanks.Hi from the MANUAL it states

Non Dell certified drives will be blocked. For more information on the benefits of USING Dell certified
drives, see the Dell Point of View paper Why Customers Should Insist on DELLTM Hard Drives for
Enterprise Systems.

The manual for the controller is here https://www.dell.com/downloads/global/products/pvaul/en/perc-technical-guidebook.pdf

There is so many different options to configure the controller it maybe better to get a clear plan of what your setup will be.

Recently I realized my CPU cooler (CRYORIG H7 49 CFM CPU Cooler) was on BACKWARDS. I realized I had installed it so that the fan was trying to intake air through the back of the case (the EXHAUST fan) and exhaust air through the front of the case (the intake fan) I opened up my PC and switched it around. Upon doing this I realized shorty after that while my computer booted my CPU performance was now and is currently greatly reduced.

What's WEIRD is that the thermals seem GREAT, but I am still getting frame drops in Far Cry 5 and in Tom Raider. Before I would get 140 to 100 FPS now I get 81 to 50 FPS in Far cry 5 and I went from 126 to 100 in Tomb Raider. What's even weirder is that I bench marked my CPU and system with user bench mark and it I got a better score then I've ever gotten and my computer keeps telling me that everything is running smoothly.

I fear that I may have shorted something out, and it maybe a mother board issue but that is only a best guess. I of course made sure the PC was off but, IDK I'm really at a loss here so anything you can think of to help would be much appreciated because this problem is bugging the *censored* out of me.

The way I see it the main question seems to be:

What causes a CPU to preform worse in CPU intensive games/apps besides of course poor thermals?

Things I've tried but haven't worked

Resetting windows

Re installing drivers

Re installing Far cry 5

Re installing Tomb Raider

Updating the BIOS

Unplugging all cables from my PSU and plugging them back in, making sure all connections are tight and secure on the PSU and mother board headers

Wiping away excess thermal paste

Re downloaded NVIDIA control panel and experience.

Tightened down CPU cooler bracket evenly as I could to ensure even heat transfer

Moved the CPU cooler to were it was, still got same performance.

Re seating RAM

Crying

Taking Adderal

Checking my thermals with Core temp

Optimizing my fan curve with my BIOS. That is also what I did previously when my system was working normally.

Scanned the drive that my games are on for errors and moved Far cry 5 to other drive

Other things that I did that maybe could be an issue.

Moved RAM every time I needed to access CPU fan header. Perhaps the Ram I got was set to a faster speed by default and I didn't notice. XMP is currently off.

removed one HDD and reinstalled my 1TB HDD

500GB HHD was a boot drive for another version of windows

Banged a screw against the mother board by accident

Sprayed out dust so with maybe some got in the wrong place?

Yanked on the CPU cooler cord to get it out, perhaps loosening the wire to much.

Moves the location of two fan splitters from one mother board fan header to another

Perhaps reset my BIOS settings when I unplugged everything.

Messed with some Java and NVIDIA settings to try and get mine craft to run better

Had excesses thermal paste that maybe shorted something out

Reinstalled a few different hard DRIVES and had windows auto run a disk checker a few times when I had to hit the power switch on my PC. No errors were found however.

PC part picker part list

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bDhnq3Are the framerates better an hour after the adderal ? ?...Just curious. Quote from: patio on May 21, 2020, 05:59:24 PM

Are the framerates better an hour after the adderal ? ?...Just curious.

Hey all, been a while, hope all is well here!

Just a few quick queries -

I'm in the process of looking at parts to upgrade my Alienware 15 R2.

Also - inb4 "EW, get a different laptop", it was surprisingly cheap.

1.) It was advertised as having 16gb RAM, and I'm hoping to upgrade from the 12gb it inexplicably came with, and i'm 90% sure it can support up to 32gb DDR4 at 2133, however - I'm having trouble finding anything reasonably priced at 2133. Prices appear to be less than HALF for a step or two up in speed. Am I that out of the loop that there's been some horrific shortage of 2133 I'm not aware of? Also, is there any guarantee this is the max capacity/speed it supports? (Edit: I have checked Dell's official specs writeups, but they conflict with various testimonies from friends, and Dell's support hotline  )

2.) I'm hoping to add a second M.2 SSD, and I'm starting to doubt whether i'll actually be able to utilise two 1Tb drives in the two available M.2 SLOTS. My primary CONCERN here is the prospect of conflicts when the laptop attempts to identify the newly installed drives, since I've had this issue close to a decade ago when I started attempting to use SATA SSDs in my desktop, not knowing windows would wreak its usual havoc. I assume COMPATIBILITY is less of an issue these days, but again - I've been out of the loop for many a year at this point

Anyway, any and all advice is appreciated!

Cheers, folks.

I restored a system image of one computer to another computer. My screen on the second machine has a black border left and right end of the screen 6 inches wide. The highest resolution available is 1280 x 1024. The display Generic PnP Monitor on Standard V GA Graphics Adapter. Before I used this system image from the first computer I didn't have any borders. PLEASE, what can I do so that borders do not appear? Thanks, kindly.

Item                Details

Windows:            Windows 7 Professional Edition (64-bit) Service Pack 1 (Build 7601)
Internet Explorer:  9.11.9600.18860
Memory (RAM):       16273 MB
CPU Info:           Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-2600 CPU 3.40GHz
CPU Speed:          3389.7 MHz
Sound Card:         Speakers (2- Realtek High Defin |
Audials Sound Capturing (Audial |

Display Adapters:   Standard VGA Graphics Adapter | RDPDD Chained DD | RDP Encoder Mirror Driver | RDP Reflector Display Driver
Monitors:           1x; Generic PnP Monitor |
Screen Resolution:  1280 X 1024 - 32 bit
Network:            Network Present
Network Adapters:   Intel(R) 82579LM Gigabit Network Connection #2 | Kaspersky Security Data ESCORT Adapter | Kaspersky Security Data Escort Adapter #2
CD / DVD Drives:    1x (E: | ) E: hp      DVD A  DS8A5SH
Ports:              COM Ports NOT Present. LPT Port NOT Present.
Mouse:              5 Button Wheel Mouse Present
Hard Disks:         C:  100.1GB | D:  100.0MB
Hard Disks - Free:  C:  50.2GB | D:  42.9MB
USB Controllers:    2 host controllers.
Firewire (1394):    Not Detected
Manufacturer *:     Hewlett-Packard
Product Make *:     HP Compaq 8200 Elite USDT PC
AC Power Status:    OnLine
BIOS Info:          AT/AT COMPATIBLE | 06/09/11 | HPQOEM - 1072009
Time Zone:          Atlantic Standard Time
Battery Status:     No Battery
Motherboard *:      Hewlett-Packard 1496
IP Address:         192.168.2.3 |
MAC Address:        9C-8E-99-CF-B0-91
Host Name:          I7-3930K
SM BIOS:            J01 v02.06
When you transfer windows to new hardware you NEED to load the drivers for the new computer. The drivers for your computer are available from here.

https://support.hp.com/nz-en/drivers/selfservice/hp-compaq-8200-elite-ultra-slim-pc/5037958

Start with the Driver Chipset there is 2 to install and then the others.

Use the drivers Intel Graphics Driver for Microsoft Windows not the AMD one if you are using the motherboard graphics

Or you could just use the HP support Assistant in the software solutions group this one HP Support Assistant 7.7.34.34 Rev.A   35.9 MB   Sep 22, 2014 which will set everything up automatically.
Thanks. The issue is resolved. Windows eventually installed the driver.
 
Perhaps you can also help with the FOLLOWING:

I have a Fantom HD204UI USB DEVICE that does not appear in Windows 7 Explorer or Disk Management. In Device Manager is an exclamation mark beside it. When Windows does a search online it returns that the driver did not install successfully. Also, under SMS Bus Controller an exclamation mark appears and it also returns that its driver did not install properly. Below that, under Universal Serial Bus controllers all drivers are installed and up to date.

Nor is any USB flash recognized in Explorer or Management. Which drivers do I download for it? I get a message: Windows was unable to install your SM Bus Controller. Windows could not find driver software for your device.

When I attempt to download drivers from the HP site you linked to, every time I'm notified that the download has failed, The only drivers I need now is for USB flash and FANTOM USB external hard drive. I don't see any drivers at the Fantom site. I have contacted Fantom support, USB Mouse and keyboard work OK,

Hi

The SM Bus Controller drivers are part of the chip set driver you need the chip set driver for windows to detect usb devices other than Keyboard and mouse. Although the SM Bus doesn't have any effect on USB devices the fact it doesn't have a driver loaded suggests to me that there is other drivers missing.

Try installing HP Support Assistant to tidy things up.

Windows has all the support built in to use your Fantom HD204UI without drivers.

So I just replaced my RAM to Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8 and added a Samsung Evo 970 500gb SSD.  When I boot my computer everything starts up fine, but the monitor stays black and the keyboard and mouse do not turn on.  I have tried unplugging everything and plugging it BACK in, tried only starting the old set up, only the NEW set up, both again (all of these with one RAM in each slot and then both of the new and old).  Every time I get the same results, the monitor stays blank and the keyboard and mouse do not power on.  Here's my build, and help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 1200 (14nm) 3.1 GHz Quad-CORE Processor   
Motherboard: ASRock A320M-DGS Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard
(REPLACED) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory   
Memory: Patriot Viper Elite 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2666 CL15 Memory
(ADDED) STORAGE: Samsung 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive 
Storage: Seagate FireCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive   
Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 560 - 1024 4 GB AERO ITX Video Card
CASE: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case

Hello,
So I came across Xtra-Pc and after doing some RESEARCH I found out that you can make your own much cheaper
by downloading Linux onto a flashdrive. My question is this: I need to get a laptop. Specifically to study and to
record music and just do regular browsing on internet. Would buying a used laptop and using the Linux flashdrive
work for this or is a new laptop recommended. If using Linux is not advised could you PLEASE tell me why as my dad
is pushing for me to GO with that instead of getting a new ONE. 
I know hardly ANYTHING about Computers so...there's that.
Hope you can help!

A few years AGO my graphics card on my computer stopped working and we had to get a new one, after that RANDOMLY the screen would go black for about 3 seconds and turn back on and input:dvi would pop up, it would most commonly happen when a program launches, ALSO whenever i would launch a game the same thing would happen but the game would minimize and i couldnt reopen it and id have to force quit it from task manager. Recently we got a new computer so i decided to reformat the old one, i completely wiped the hard drives and installed windows 10, i thought it might fix it but it didnt, im guessing the graphics card is not compatible but im wondering if there is anything i can try before having to buy a new one.

Graphics card: Radeon(TM) RX 460 Graphics
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-2600 CPU 3.40GHz (8 CPUs), ~3.4GHz
Motherboard: ASUSTeK Computer INC. P8z68-M PRO
8GB of RAMHi there was a Bios update for the motherboard, the last update was to Enhance compatibility with some PCIE devices. this was 2013/08/08
What is the current Bios revision ?
Also is there any exclamation marks in device manager if so on what devices ?

I GOT a NEW MSI gaming pc. I slotted in my two old hdds and ssd from my old computer. I went into the bios and tried to get the computer to boot from my old windows installation instead of using the windows that the computer came with, but the bios isn't detecting it. I have enabled the SATA ports in the bios. When I go into windows explorer with the new installation, my drives are shown and I can ACCESS them.

My bios is a H130M pro-m2 plus (ms-7c08).

In short, wanna boot new prebuilt from old hard drive, but bios can't see it.You cannot simply move Windows drives from 1 PC to another and expect it to boot...

All your data should still be there though.Well, the weird thing is, I was able to get my partners old windows to boot from his new computer which is the same prebuilt.That is total Luck...

I get the feeling it's not. Shouldn't my drives be shown in the bios?Yes...if BIOS doesn't see them they arent CONNECTED proper or dead...try 1 at a timeOk, in the system info in the bios, it is reading my drives. It's just not seeing my old windows

I guess if I can't get it to run off my old drive, how would I go about transferring all of my settings to the new installation. I don't think there's enough room in the new partition for what I had in my old one.Was the old SSD with the windows you want to boot on was it Windows 10 as an upgrade from an earlier version of windows ?
Check in the bios that the drives are ACHI and perhaps try with secure boot off. On the post LED's is the boot LED stuck red?
Also was the computer supplied with an M2 Drive fitted?

As you are trying to boot from an SSD can you confirm again it still boots in your old machine.

Yes, it was an upgrade to windows 7. And I'm ACTUALLY trying to boot from an hdd.I got it working 👍. Went into the windows configuration and boot options and disabled a bunch of stuff.

Hi
My Dell 755 ssf with 4 gig ram, 350 Data drive, running Win 10.
Turn of normally, now it boot pasted login screen icon shown on screen, then off.
I have to turn the main 13 amp socket off, for about 3 min, switch socket on, then the computer will boot, go through the CYCLE again.
I read somewhere it said Sata drive could be corrupted.
I removed all, Cd, Data, blow everything out, removed memory replaced them, boot the machine nothing attached, about 3 mins later, off it went.
Is it the POWER supply, or mother board?

LOOK FORWARD to any respond.

Regards

Hello, I had a GT 730 from Asus and I wanted to play COD MW the most recent one but I couldn't because my GPU was no longer recieving driver support so I tested 2 other GPUs one Radeon and one GT, after testing I INSERTED my GT 730 back on the PC and when I started it was really slow but really really slow.
A few weeks later my new GPU a GTX 1060 3Gb from Asus arrived and I did a full WIPE on my PC and installed Windows 10 Pro 64 Bits again but still my PC was still slow but less.
Please someone help!!!

I have:
GPU = GTX 1060 3Gb (recommended 500w)
Power Supply = LC-8500BTX 500w
Chipset = C200
RAM = 4Gb + 4Gb
Disks = 1.5Tb + 1Tb
SSD = 120Gb

Other:
I also have 2 screen both LG L1750SQ.Hi,

There could be few possible reasons for Windows 10 being slow. You need to check these possible reason in your case as you have just installed fresh windows 10 still you PC is slow.

1. Corrupted or fragmented hard drive - Run chkdsk command to check your hard drive status. To run these command go to command prompt and run as administrator. Now Type chkdsk on the command prompt and hit enter. Hard drive could be one of the main reasons for your slow PC in your case particularly.

2. I have suggested you to upgrade RAM but you are already using 8 GB am so, Check any third party software which may be using your RAM excessively.

3. Check for Hardware conflicts as it may cause your PC slow. Go to device manger and check, all  your driver installed correctly and update all the driver if you find outdated.

4. Make SURE your computer and processor is not overheating. Excessive heat can cause a decrease in the computer's performance


Hope these suggestion will help you resolve your problem. I have only suggested solution which is best SUITED in your situation.
Please define "slow". EXACTLY what is slow? Please describe the problem in detail.

I received an old Microsoft Surface (1st GEN) from my sister, which I tried to reset to factory default for my own use.

However, it ended up with an error "There was a problem resetting your PC" when the resetting RUNS until around 60%.

Whatever repair/recovery option I choose, all end up looping with the same RESULT, and I can't get into Windows anymore.

I have also tried to recover USING a bootable USB with recovery image downloaded from Microsoft, it ends up looping the recovery process.

Any solution?

someone help this moning my Hp laptop has failed to come on the error displayed is 'memory test' tried rebooting but that the message displayed. I deleted your duplicate thread. One post per TOPIC please.
 To check the ram, download MEMTEST (http://memtest.org/). Burn it to a cd using a dedicated .iso burning utility (http://www.petri.co.il/how_to_write_iso_files_to_cd.htm), make sure the cd DRIVE is at the top of the boot ORDER in bios, then boot to the newly created cd and run the utility.

I am upgrading to an Intel DZ68DB Motherboard to be able to run win 7.  There are about ± 60 compatible i3/5/7 processors on the online check list I could use. I think I would like a Quad core???

 I am a [6yr retired], R&D Lab Engineer, but have not KEPT up with all the current technology. [I program in Borland C/Basic/Lab-view/SCPI/Industrial Communications/DOS, very windows competent, ----I could go on, but you get the idea. I am very science/math intensive, but have no desire to do any gaming. Give me an idea of what processor I should choose.  I want to buy what is necessary, but not be foolish, as I'm 73 and this PC will probably outlive me ---HeHeHe [minor VA HEALTH issues]

Thank You, In advance, for your time and consideration to this matter. ~~~Sam C / Crestline CAHi Sam,
Is this a new/old stock board, if not like it is used and you don't have memory or a CPU for the board it would be better to look for a new board with the accessories like CABLES and back panel.
There are plenty of Windows 7 pro machines ex lease refurbished which would be cheaper, than to get that motherboard running.
Say an HP Pro desk can be purchased for a price less than price of the memory and CPU new, this may be a cheap way to get the memory and CPU for your motherboard.

 
 
It is a brand new board bought in 11/02/15 for $60.50US [Long Story].  Have 8GB [Crucial (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model CT2KIT51264BA1339].  Pretty much just looking to save me "a lot" of time sifting through specs/etc, as I'm trying to get online video with the Loma Linda VA [without spending a lot of money] [and having a very good PC CURRENTLY], but running WinXP has made a lot of  things impossible like running live video chat [Google].  So just need to come up with a i7 quad that will fit my needs [which is pretty much anything---except gaming]. Also this board is set pretty much as an "easy" replacement to what I have [4 Int HDD/3 Ext HDD ~8TB, Intel D915GEV, 3.8GHz 5xx Series HTT Processor, 2GB RAM]. Box/PSU/ProcFan/Etc would all direct swap
As far as my SW use, MS Office/Photoshop/Irfanview/Lab-view/Acrobat, plus a bunch of utilities; Bulk Rename Utility/MP3 Tag/ Wireshark/Audacity Audio Editor/Audio Converter Studio. [The list is endless, so I'll quit there] [I'm a music collector---8K+ albums---Hence all the HDD's]

Thank You, in advance for your time and consideration to this matter.  It is VERY much appreciated !!!!!!!!!!!! [Very sorry to get "wordy", it's in my nature, and getting worse, and I apologize---Sincerely !!!]For anyone interested in the information I was able to glean off the web, here it is.
All Core i5 desktop processors offer 4 cores and no hyper-threading while in the mobile sector all Core i5 processors have 2 cores and hyper-threading.
All Intel Core i7 processors have hyper-threading technology that doubles the displayed CPU core number, while the performance increases by up to 40% compared to processors without hyper-threading.
The only remaining consideration is HD Graphics: 2000/2500/3000/4000........ What do you need??
Finally, i5 cores have 6MB cache, i7 cores have 8MB. Hardly a meaningful difference, even in gaming, quoted a noted gamer.

Thank You, Lisa_maree, for your input time and consideration to this matter.  It was very much appreciated.
I should have added I have built {from scratch} about 25-30 computers in work profession, and another 40-50 for free in private life for friends, as well as for KIDS whose parents couldn't afford to buy one.  I believe I will enjoy this one as much if not more than any of the others.

Hello boys! I started playing some games with my boyfriend. Here's the deal: I don't have much money to BUY a new PC but I can buy some parts, but I want to be sure that I'm not throwing my money with something that won't work.

I'm playing League of Legends and Valorant with a 30 fps with drops sometimes, especially in teamfights.

Here are my specs:

ASUS AM1M-A
AMD Athlon 5150 4 cores at 1.6 Ghz with APU R3 Series.
4 GB of RAM.
Windows 7.

I'm planning to:

Buy a STICK of 8GB RAM
Buy a dedicated graphics card, Geforce 710 1GB RAM GDDR3.

Will it improve Valorant and League of Legends performance? I know my CPU it's quite slow, but maybe a dedicated card and a little amount of RAM will help it out.

What do you THINK?

These are Valorant req.:

https://ar.steelseries.com/blog/valorant-pc-system-requirements-187

Plus: I'm not planning gaming at 1080p with high settings, it just a 720/900p screen with low setting, but I want to hit at least constants 45 frames.

Thank U all, kisses from Argentina

As the title says' my fan keeps speeding up then slowing down.i have recently INSTALLED this fan it is only a cpu case fan.
but while i had it to BITS i decided to clean the heatsink and replace the thermal paste .i read how to do this and i followed the instructions
correctly  (i think)  ANYWAY everything worked ok .but after about a week the problem started.
 any chance you can solve this for me.

thank you.How is the fan plugged into the computer. DIRECT from the POWER supply, from a fan header on the motherboard or other . Does the fan have 2,3 or 4 wires in it's cable and are all the wires connected at the supply end?  even if new i wouldn't trust the fan...replace it....

The only computer I've ever owned (and am CURRENTLY using) is a dell laptop from 2012. While it still works okay, I'm finding that I can't play most of the games on my current library, as well as do anything as far as video/music editing.

What I'm WONDERING is: Is there a list of graphics cards from current highest quality to older, LOWER quality models? Ones that can still get the job done on some games, and are cheaper? And then maybe a current EXPECTED price for them? Like how 1080s are currently fluctuating with mining, something that could reflect what the current expected price-point would be.With Most laptops you are stuck with what you have...
BTW on laptops it's a CHIP...not a card.

does anyone know a good gaming laptop (other than razer) that has
1. good graphics card
2. nice battery
3. thin and light
4. has default trackpad position
5. has a webcam

thanks You can get an idea of what the laptop market is like by VISITING a few local and nearby brickNmortor stores, looking around, asking questions, collecting some ideas of what brands and models you might like working with.  Whether you buy online or in a store, after collecting some DATA, you can probably make the best choice for your needs and wants.IMO, if you go into a brick and mortar store and take up a salespersons time by asking them questions or if you try out the systems they have on display, then you should buy from that store and not online.  If we all use the brick and mortar stores only to shop but never buy, then they will disappear COMPLETELY.  Many stores will PRICE match too. +  1

So I've got an ASUS H61M as my motherboard.
And i TRIED to turn on my computer, nothing happened.
and upon my investigation it seems that my front panel pin in my motherboard is
Either short circuit or rusted, so i'm little confused right now.

Do i NEED a new motherboard or maybe a new power button would suffice to fix the problem,
What are my options?

Any help would be appreciated 🙂,

Also SORRY for any spelling mistake.
Nevermind i just FOUND out that my motherboard is fried.