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Hello,

I have a problem with the graphic card of my laptop Clevo P65_67RSRP. The specs are:

CPU Intel Core i7-6700HQ (6M Cache, 3.50 GHz)
RAM 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 2400Mhz
GPU NVIDIA GTX 1070 8 GB
SSD Crucial MX300 M.2 525GB
Hard disk 1TB 2.5"
Windows 10 Pro 64 bit

So, basically every time I LAUNCH a game or any application that requires the Nvidia dedicated GPU to work, I have a BSOD. Apparently the file causing it is nvlddmkm.sys
I am running now on driver version 417.71, downloaded from the Clevo website, as the laptop seller advised me to. I noticed that if I leave the laptop unplugged and running on battery, I don't have this issue anymore, but of course the fps drop down, I believe because Windows is somehow preventing an excessive battery drain. If I plug the power AFTER a game is running properly on battery, sometimes it keeps on working, sometimes it crashes as usual.

I already tried a fresh windows install, reverting to the old drivers, DDU, CLEAN installation, I had the AC chager checked for MALFUNCTIONING, replacing the nvlddmkm.sys file, INCREASED the TDR timeout and deactivating it, nothing fixed the problem.

Somebody has any suggestion for me to try? Thanks in advance for the support!
Nicola

Hello everyone, I am been wanting to build my own computer for a very long time. I know my way a round computers, but the one thing that I cannot get a fair and balanced answer on is Intel still better to pick then AMD? For amd I am talking about there Ryzen cpus. I never really worked with ryze before in my life. All of the computers that I had worked on had been Intel. I know that AMD has been crushing it when it comes to benchmarks and they are close or right on intels tail. The only pro that I have found on intel is its still has the strongest single core performance. I am not a fan boy of intel, just been USING them for a long time, but I am not afraid of picking AMD, I just want to make a smart purchase.

AMD is a very solid company.
A large number of people think AMD is the best choice for HIGH performance at a decent  price.
There used to be, once upon a time, other companies that made popular CPU chips.
You may enjoy this ARTICLE:
Why AMD Is Intel’s Only Competitor
Quote

... Both companies were founded nearly 50 years ago in what has become the silicon valley part of California, yet in half a decade no other major PLAYER has been able to enter this segment of the semiconductor market. We'll take a look at the history of competition between Intel and AMD and try to explain why AMD has been, and remains, Intel's only real competitor.

Hi

Can ANYONE recommend a great large flicker free (IDEALLY non-PWM) monitor that's not too expensive?

Did you Google it?

a great large flicker free monitor
The above is from Bing, but Google will do about the same.

EDIT:
Flicker-Free TECHNOLOGY (also referred to as Flicker-Less, Anti-Flicker, and similar) indicates that a monitor doesn’t use PWM (Pulse-Width MODULATION) in order to decrease the display’s brightness.

Hey
This is my first TIME building a PC and the parts I have chosen are :-
1. ZOTAC 1660 TI
2. AMD  RYZEN 5 3600
3. ASUS EX-A320M
4. Seagate Barracuda 2TB HDD (ST2000DM005)
5. Western Digital WD 240 GB 2.5 inch SATA III Internal Solid
     State Drive (WDS240G2G0A)
6. Corsair Carbide Series CC-9011050-WW
7. Corsair VS550 550W Active PFC 80 Plus Power Supply
8.  Two : Crucial 8GB Single DDR4 2400 MT/S (PC4-19200)
      SR x8 SODIMM 260-Pin Memory - CT8G4SFS824A

Any compatibility issues ?
In pc part picker there was SOMETHING about bios incompatibility
Looking forward for playing games like call of duty mordern warfare remastered on high settings on 1080 p
Is it possible ?
Any CHANGES?
Thanks
To use the CPU on the model of Asus motherboard you need bios version 4801 or later. When you buy the motherboard either check the specification  label for the bios version or if buying on line check this before opening the box.

The memory is the wrong type here is a link to the the memory list  https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM4/EX-A320M-GAMING/EX-A320M-GAMING_Memory_QVL.pdf
You are best to select memory from that list.

Good luck with the buildWill change the ram
ALTHOUGH on the amazon webpage it says that it SUPPORTS 2400 ram type or something
Could you recommend a motherboard with the supported bios which is budget
Also what about the heating?The motherboard you have selected is ok. The 4801 bios was first used with the motherboard 2019/05/15 so new boards should have a later bios, the latest is Version 5220
2019/09/24. It is still worth checking as although the board will still work it will be very unstable with bios versions before 4801 if you use the RYZEN 5 3600 .

The memory on your list is laptop memory not for a desktop Isn't it better to take an AMD RYZEN 5 3600X? The difference in price is not so significant.

Greetings!     

I am an old school "intermediate" user but have never swapped out a CPU.  I have an SYX/systemax computer I bought from Tiger Direct a while BACK.   The motherboard is MSI.  I have the original specs (see attached) and am wondering what my choices are for a successful upgrade.

What are key things I need to consider?   What are my choices?  Other wisdom welcome....just be nice!  :-)

Thanks!

dnkYou will need to visit the MSI site...look up your MBoard and see what CPU's are compatible for starters...Thanks.  I have used http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/mb-MSI/index.html  as a reference as well.   Once the compatibility LIST is compiled....how to choose!   So many options.

Wound love further insight on next steps from here.

dnkHi dnk

The best CPU for your board is a i5-3570S

http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/CPUs/Intel/Core_i5/i5-3570S.html

You may need to update the bios depending of the current Bios version and the revision of your motherboard

I think you would be better spending the money on a solid state drive (SSD) to replace the 500 GB drive  Thanks for the note.  I forgot to mention that the config attached was the original config.   I've got a 1TB hybrid drive and another 2TB disk on board now.  All that being said, it's a good idea to consider the SSD for the o/s and WORKHORSE apps if any. Quote from: danielnk on February 10, 2020, 06:13:35 PM

All that being said, it's a good idea to consider the SSD for the o/s and workhorse apps if any.

I have a Asus Fx553 VD DM013 with i7 7700HQ, NVIDIA 1050 4GB, 1Tb HDD.
When i start a game the GPU runs fine giving me 60fps on 1920*1080 after a few minutes it slows down and this happens (image) the brunt of the work is transferred to the integrated GPU which is a Intel HD GRAPHICS 630 and the GPU slows down to just doing 5% capacity.
I have the latest windows 10 installed, latest drivers installed and GPU is set for maximum performance in NVIDIA control panel. I have set the games to use Nvidia GPU in there also i have set the power settings in windows control panel to performance I have the latest drivers installed for everything double checked. In windows graphics settings as well i have forced the games to use nvidia 1050 but they are just not doing it.
I even disabled the Intel hd graphics in Device manager to see if that would force the nvidia to start up but it got WORSE by forcing everything on CPU so had Intel hd enabled again. I uninstalled the drivers and installed again with no results still the same.
I've been through EVERYPLACE i can try to find a solution everybody is telling me to do the same THINGS i've already done in last 1 and half weeks please help.
Where are the vid drivers from ? ?

I have a toshiba  satellite p75-a7200. A few months back it would not power up. I didnt have time to mess with it then. So I did the reset tricks. Took out the battery, held down on the power button for a minute, removed the cmos battery. Its dead as a doornail. I checked the charger and it is putting out over 19v. Where should I go from here?I pulled it APART and I dont SEE anything that could cause the PROBLEM besides the mother board. I wouldnt MIND changing it but they seem quite expensive.Did you replace the CMOS battery ? ?...won't run without it.
I will try that but it shows 2.9 volts.After doing that i would try powering it up with the laptop battery removed...if it don't run on A/C then it may well be the MBoard...
Was it dropped ?If you fix it, you could use this PHOTO as wallpaper.

Source:
https://www.rocksdigital.com/cmos-battery-failure/

I open my laptop and it opens to that. I can still log in just fine, the only issue is the screen. I feel I should mention that the battery is old and doesn’t turn on unless you plug it in. All I want to know is if I can fix this by going to a repair shop or is my laptop beyond hope? If I can fix this, is it easy enough to repair by myself or would it be recommended by someone who’s worked with HARDWARE? Ifs it’s beyond hope, could you tell me why? Thank you for the help in advance.

The screen is damaged most likely caused by a faulty hinge. If you are left handed then possibly caused thru  opening the screen from the left corner  The Sony screens NEED to be replaced by a technician, there is a lot of work to DISCONNECT the screen and install a new one. I would look for ANOTHER laptop running Windows 10 and swap the hard drive as this could be cheaper.

hello all,

IF you were going to purchase a new desk top this year - what would you get/why ?

many, many thank yous ! Please USE a topic  header that relates to your question. You've been here long enough to know better. sorry...

wish i had a...Best in what?
Price?
SPEED?
Durable?
Try this on Google:
Best DESKTOP PCs now.

You might find this:
https://www.lifewire.com/best-desktop-pcs-4045927

Note that the Microsoft SURFACE Studio 2  is a desktop.

Hi folks, I'm looking for advice as I seem to be a LITTLE stumped with a hardware issue. Below are the computer specs:

-CPU =5820
- MotherBoard = X99 Deluxe II
- GPU = 1080 (2)
- Power supply = EVGA 1000 G+
- 128GB Ram

Problem:
Last week I went into my computer room which had a smell, I looked over and my water pump was not circulating in the res so I immediately powered the PC off. After hours of cooling down I powered the computer back on to test if windows WOULD fully boot to see if I fried the CPU or Motherboard. The computer will boot into windows.

I then ordered a new water pump and after installing I noticed that the pump would not power but also the fans would not fully power (Leds will light on the fans but they won't spin) SO currently the water pump and fans will not power while the PC, Ram, GPU's etc power and boot to windows. I took it to a shop yesterday and they said they tested the Power supply and it was not getting the right voltage. If they test the new pump or fans on their test bed they turn on fine.

So I just installed a new power supply based on their advice and the problem remains. Pump and Fans will not operate, but computer will boot. I've tried taking both GPU out of the machine and powering it on but the problem remains.

I'm looking for some advice on what to try next as I do not want to replace every part on this PC, I would rather start my new build. (Hoping to not need to spend the money right now)

Any advice on what to try next?
Is it the 12V leg that is low?

Your Video Cards have a 12V molex power and maybe one of them is partially cooked WEIGHING it down.

Try one video card or other without both installed and see if the voltage goes to full voltage as something else other than the pump is weighing down the power supply. If board has integrated video run on integrated video and see if pump works with no issues with full voltage.My first thought is m ore a question regarding whether they *should* be operating- what I MEAN is, is there perhaps some sort of fan control enabled in the BIOS? "intelligent fan control" or something like that. It might be trying to be smart and not engaging the fans (and radiator pump) based on the system load.

Beyond that, I'd start with seeing if a "minimal" approach allows the pump to operate. This would be the minimum needed to just get a POST, and see if the fan/radiator operate as you expect- just the CPU and Radiator, no expansion cards, one stick of RAM, no HDD/SSD.

If the radiator still doesn't work than I would say the problem could be with the motherboard itself. If it does, then add back components one at a time until it stops and you'll have likely found the culprit.

Hi, this my FIRST POST on here so how you do.

I have just started a custom upgrade on my current system

I am using a X570 MOTHERBOARD from gigabyte the master VERSION (bios version f11)  a 3950 Ryzen CPU 64gb of memory and two Nvidia GPU:s, 2 x m.2 and 3x sata ports

The ISSUE is I can only see one GPU in the bios, which is seated in 16x slot one.

The second GPU is in the 8x slot two

On boot up to the bios I don't see the second slot or it is not being picked up in the Bios software manager, ok before Its pointed out my testing of the issue started with Gigabyte tech support after different things such as:

1 clearimg the Cmos, I have swapped the cards and also run them separately
I have change settings in the bios relating to the bifurcation PCIe not to mention the Gen config from auto through to Gen 4

I am started to thing this a faulty motherboard, but this is the second motherboard and both are brand new out of the box and from two different companies, my reasoning was in the  hope I would eliminate a common manufacturers fault.

My question is can two gpu's be run independently on this motherboard and if so how do I get both GPUs to be seen in bios

Hey ! I am been working on my computer for more then 5 + hours per day. So I am looking for any monitor which has inbuilt eye care technology to protect my eyes. Can anyone suggest me best monitor that can reduce my eye strain? I have 500$ Budget. Thanks!Let me try to give you a QUICK answer.
Years ago I had normal vision and then something happened try lost the sight in one eye. Before that I had no problems with monitors and COULD use a small monitor with no problem. But after my loss of sight in one eye, I was left with very low vision in the remaining eye. That was about 20 years ago and I now use large monitors, two of them. Both are 32 inch television sets. Unfortunately I did not check it out before I bought them. I think that was a mistake. One was an offbrand and to my surprise it is the most pleasant on my eyes but a little strange to set up. The other monitor is a Toshiba, a well-known brand, but it's very HARD on my eyes. So I use the offbrand monitor asked my main monitor and the other one is off to one side for I can put stuff that I'm working on temporarily.
Anyway, to get to the point, I really RECOMMEND you look at the monitors before you buy them. I wish I had done that. I did not know there can be so much different between monitors that are about the same price. So I would strongly recommend you go into a store, any store that has monitors or TV sets, and find one that appears to be good on your eyes.

That's the best advice I know how to give.   
QUOTE from: Geek-9pm on February 20, 2020, 10:14:29 PM

Let me try to give you a quick answer.
Years ago I had normal vision and then something happened try lost the sight in one eye. Before that I had no problems with monitors and could use a small monitor with no problem. But after my loss of sight in one eye, I was left with very low vision in the remaining eye. That was about 20 years ago and I now use large monitors, two of them. Both are 32 inch television sets. Unfortunately I did not check it out before I bought them. I think that was a mistake. One was an offbrand and to my surprise it is the most pleasant on my eyes but a little strange to set up. The other monitor is a Toshiba, a well-known brand, but it's very hard on my eyes. So I use the offbrand monitor asked my main monitor and the other one is off to one side for I can put stuff that I'm working on temporarily.
Anyway, to get to the point, I really recommend you look at the monitors before you buy them. I wish I had done that. I did not know there can be so much different between monitors that are about the same price. So I would strongly recommend you go into a store, any store that has monitors or TV sets, and find one that appears to be good on your eyes.

That's the best advice I know how to give.   

I have a new ACER Aspire laptop and the shift key and the capslock are driving me crazy at times the caps lock doesn't seem to know if it's on or off. The shift key sometimes brings up caps and other times lower case. There's no way to know if the caps lock is on or not. MAKES it very hard to put a password in if you don't know if upper or lower case is SHOWING up. How can I CORRECT this?The laptop should have a capslock light on it...usually upper top RIGHT of the KEYBOARD...The workaround is copy and paste.
Have a text file with your passwords. Open it, copy the password, and paste in into the box where it goes. Works for me.

Will be changing video card to one having HDMI so I can send in digital FORM a stereo WAV file mixed to 6 channels to an HDMI port on a 5.1 AV Receiver.  Have my desk top PC function as a digital jukebox

From what I have determined, can not be done digitally using a USB-HDMI adapter (not with 6 audio channels) or SPDIF.  This leaves only HDMI on a video card.

Do not want to use a 5.1 sound card.  This would cause the signal to go through DAC leaving the computer and ADC entering the receiver to be processed before going to DAC to be amplified.

But what HAPPENS is there is audio and video?  Watching a dvd through the PC DVD drive.  Watching video from the internet.  My GUESS is the video goes out through the HDMI port and does not get to the monitor

Can something be done so video goes to the monitor?  Some kind of dual monitor set up?  I have a VGA and digital monitor

Why am I posting this TRIVIAL? Hear me, please
Sometimes people ask for recommendations. But the industry is so dynamic that old truisms no longer work. Someone might say buy quality and pray more. Yeah, that used to be true. But now the industry will sell you a bargain PC with a TWO year warranty at a lower cost that the 'better built' machine. Check it out
Look here:
Laptops Under $200 -  Amazon
Laptops Under $200 - Best Buy
Laptops Under $200 - Walmart
Add in a two year warranty for about $25 to $49 and you are set. 
Do y sou see what I mean? With a warranty the reliability thing now falls on them, not you. So, do not pay more. Just shell out for a two year warranty. It just makes sense. 

EDIT: Yeah. Some items are over $200, but look around. And you do not have  to settle for a Chromebook. There  are Windows machines out there under $200. Wal Mart has a $250 LAPTOP that received quite positive reviews from pseudo-tech channels like Linus Tech Tips.Thanks BC,
  Ir has Windows 10! - That is amazing 
At one time it was on sale for $200.Wal Mart seems to now only carry a $300 Motile brand laptop.  Don't know if it's different than the one REVIEWED by Linus or if they simply jacked up the price because it was popular.

Hello!



My computer randomly stops functioning no matter what I am doing with it at the moment. The KEYBOARD, mouse, and screen turns off. The lights of the power button stay on but the button does not respond to me pressing the power button. The fans of the computer continue spinning. I have to pull the power cable to get the computer to turn off. Even after that, the lights to the power button stay on for about 10 seconds. When I plug in the power cable again and try to boot the computer it works fine for a whole day or so.



Any help is appreciated!



Computer specs:

Motherboard: GIGABYTE B450M DS3H

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X (Pinnacle Ridge, PiR-B2)

3600 MHz (36.00x100.0) 2694 MHz (27.00x99.

Motherboard: GIGABYTE B450M DS3H-CF

BIOS: F50, 11/27/2019

Chipset: AMD B450 (Low-Power Promontory PROM26.A)

Memory: 16384 MBytes 1463 MHz, 16-18-18-36

- 8192 MB PC25600 DDR4 SDRAM - Corsair CMK16GX4M2B3200C16

- 8192 MB PC25600 DDR4 SDRAM - Corsair CMK16GX4M2B3200C16

Graphics: Powercolor RX 5700 Red Devil/Dragon

AMD Radeon RX 5700, 8192 MB GDDR6 SDRAM

Drive: Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB, 976.8 GB, Serial ATA 6Gb/s 6Gb/s

Drive: ST4000DM004-2CV104, 3907.0 GB, Serial ATA 6Gb/s 6Gb/s

Drive: SAMSUNG MZ7LF128HCHP-00004, 125.0 GB, Serial ATA 6Gb/s 6Gb/s

Sound: ATI/AMD Navi10 - HIGH Definition AUDIO Controller

Sound: AMD Zen - HD Audio Controller

Network: RealTek Semiconductor RTL8168/8111 PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet NIC

OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Professional (x64) Build 18363.657 (1909/November 2019 Update)

PSU: https://www.inet.se/produkt/6903813/kolink-enclave-500w. It is a few weeks old.

Hello

There is A-Data memory AD3U1600W8G11-B, 8 GB. One bar.
I want to buy a second one. This is not in local shops.
Found an ANALOG: AMD RADEON R5 Entertaiment Series [R538G1601U2S-U] and another VERSION of Kingston KVR16n11 / 8

what can you ADVISE?

Hi I have a computer fan on my Nvidia GTX970 Graphics Card that has become noisey (I have already oiled it previously but I want a spare).

I have brought a Gigabyte fan for it which is 3 pin (my graphics card has 3 x Fans on it, 1 Fan is 3 pin and the other 2 Fans have 2 pins), but unfortunately the one i have purchased has a male connector on it, instead of a female which is required (see picture attached of the one i brought). Can i use 2pcs 4-Pin MOLEX to 3-Pin fan Power Cable Adapter Connector 12v*2 / 5v*2 10cm as an adaptor to use my 3 pin Fan with male connection (see attached picture of the one from Ebay that i may get). This would connect to my Power Supply.

Can anyone confirm if this would be suitable PLEASE as it says 2 of the adaptors are 5v and 2 are 12v. If this is not suitable can anyone let me know a solution please?

I realise i can get the Fans with the 3 pin female connection but they all seem to be from China and due to the Coronavirus they are not obtainable at the moment.

Thank you very much in advance for any help you can give meIf you have room for it and desperation for a cooling fan for video card, I have actually placed a 80MM muffin fan on flat of heatsink and then used rubber bands to hold it tight to the video card and plug that into a 12volt power connector and it worked in keeping the video card cool. You will want the airflow to blow into the heatsink vs away for BEST cooling which it is as if it shouldnt matter of airflow but it worked better for some reason with the arrow of airflow pointed towards heatsink vs away.HI
The adapter picture you have posted has different sized connections than the fan. Normally when i can't get exactly the same part I have cut the socket off the faulty fan say with about 3/4 of an inch of wire then cut the new fans wires and solder the correct connections. Remembering to use some HEAT shrink for installation, put this on before joining the wires. If you only have 2 wires then these will go to the red and black on the fan. The green wire is a sensor output . A local electronics shop should do this for you.

There is a wire which GOES between my PC and external hard drive Seagate FREE Agent. It is obvious for me that on the one end of this wire is a USB 2.0. I don't know what kind of USB is on the other end though I tried to find the name out of this interface earlier on the web.
Probably my question is stupid for you, guys. But I don't know so I'm asking.

https://www.ebay.com/i/132379501918?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=132379501918&targetid=922439848797&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9007302&poi=&campaignid=6470049725&mkgroupid=87926505766&rlsatarget=pla-922439848797&abcId=1141176&merchantid=110844320&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkePyBRCEARIsAMy5Sct-882pzOyLCC5L6x2LzqZXN9MpKmiDXUkhmwmObiZohv223RmjjWYaAutsEALw_wcB



Some call it MINI USB.
https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=Awr4zV.zeVleyH0AMwBXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTEybG04YjdyBGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDQjkzMjJfMQRzZWMDc2M-?p=google+images+USB+connectors&fr=tightropetb

Search Google images.

I’m having a problem in my newly built pc where I can login into windows, and do a few things in the pc and at seemingly RANDOM times, my monitor goes blank telling me that there is no input while it is plugged into my gpu, I’ve made SURE that all my cables are connected properly too. I originally thought it was a psu problem and upgraded to a 650w psu. When that didn’t HELP, I thought that I didn’t have enough ram, so I upgraded to 16gb instead of 8gb. It still hasn’t worked, I really don’t know what is wrong. Hopefully SOMEONE will be able to help?

Here are my specs:
CPU: ryzen 5 1600AF
GPU: XFX RX 570
PSU: Corsair CV650
Ram: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8gb ddr4-2400
Storage: WD 500gb ssd
Pcie- tp link WiFi card
What MBoard ? ?

Have you tried re-installing the GPU drivers that shipped with the card ? ?Check your power settings. Is the display set to power down after a defined period of inactivity? Quote from: patio on March 17, 2020, 06:43:48 AM

What MBoard ? ?

Have you tried re-installing the GPU drivers that shipped with the card ? ?

Check your power settings. Is the display set to power down after a defined period of inactivity?

I want a specification for a server that can act as a Domain Controller and Active Directory for 400 Windows clients.Look Here:
http://techgenix.com/active-directory-insights-part5/
Quote

Active Directory Insights (Part 5) - Domain controller hardware sizing
Mitch Tulloch Posted On September 5, 2015
...

If you would like to read the other PARTS in this article series please go to:

    Active Directory Insights (Part 1): Configuring DNS on domain controllers
    Active Directory Insights (Part 2): Digging into Trusts
    Active Directory Insights (Part 3): Re-examining read-only domain controllers
    Active Directory Insights (Part 4): More on read-only domain controllers
    Active Directory Insights (Part 6): Domain controllers and NIC teaming
    Active Directory Insights (Part 7) - More on using virtual domain controllers
    Active Directory Insights (Part - Virtual domain controllers and disaster recovery
    Active Directory Insights (Part 9) - Automating user account provisioning
    Active Directory Insights (Part 10) - DHCP and domain controllers
    Active Directory Insights (Part 11) - sIDHistory
    Active Directory Insights (Part 12) - MaxTokenSize
    Active Directory Insights (Part 13) - Digging into the GLOBAL Catalog
    Active Directory Insights (Part 14) - More about the Global Catalog

Introduction
Domain controllers are the heart of a Windows Server environment. They're the KEYS to the kingdom, and because of this they need not only to be secure but also reliable and always available. Having at least two domain controllers in each domain (and SOMETIMES at each site) is essential to ensure directory services are always available for users so they can be authenticated and authorized for accessing resources. Physical domain controllers also need to have system hardware that has a high degree of reliability and resistance to the different kinds of hardware failures that server systems can be prone to. And virtualized domain controllers need to be run on host machines that have hardware with similar reliability requirements.

Dell Inspiron one 2330
If matters here's the config below (also see attached 1.jpg):
CPU: Core i7-3770S 3.1GHz
RAM: 2 stick 8GB
HDD: ST2000DM001-1CH164 2TB

OS is very slow and unstable, may restart itself periodically, cannot access any Windows settings menu, audio, wifi ... are GONE, luckily still running, ailing though. Disk repair or DELL recovery tools couldn't do anything. Doesn't digest Windows updates, rolls back half way. The reason must be bad HDD with some bad sectors (see attached (2.jpg)).
3 visible and 6 total partitions (3.jpg).
Want to clone to save Dell factory EFI partitions, so that if needed to be able to reset the system and the rest of everything UEFI offers.
Clone keeps failing on partition 4, namely OS partition (10.jpg, 11.jpg).
Print screens are with Macrium reflect, tried other software too, but in my experience Macrium's been the most
reliable and stable.
Is there a way of cloning those 5 healthy partitions and do some work around for the 4th system partition?More images.And one moreI would contact Dell and inquire about Recovery Media....Macrium reflect the way you are using it is coping at a file level not a sector level. Sector level  is the better way to get a copy of your drive. Macrium reflect has a sector level option which you could use or perhaps use.

https://hddguru.com/software/HDD-Raw-Copy-Tool/

The drive you are coping to if you use this software needs to be larger or the same geometry as the source drive.
Your 2TB SEAGATE drive is failing so getting a copy of as much as possible off the drive before it completely fails is a priority.
If you then wanted to put the data onto a smaller drive you could do this from the copy not the failing drive.
    The problem is he is copying a faulty drive...if i was him i would do 1 partition at a time instead of the whole shebang.
Some of those partitions would fit on a flash drive... Quote from: patio on March 19, 2020, 05:02:09 AM

I would contact Dell and inquire about Recovery Media....

No...recovery data would take the PC back to Day 1 status...has nothing to do with your other partitions.
Using recovery wipes all data on the C: drive and produces a clean install

Shame...sad to hear that.
Dell used to ship CD;s USB stiks for specific PC's for minimal charge + shipping...

Do me a favor and post afull screenshot of Disk Management again so i can sort out these partitions...

From what i see so far it's 2 physical HDDs...1 2TB HDD and 1 750G HDD...is this accurate ?

Hi again,

This option in reflex may help   Set Macrium Reflect to ignore bad sectors when creating an image please see the picture below.

If you google your Seagate drive model and firmware you will find lots of posts of problems. Similar to  what you are having.

All you need to do a recovery of windows is a copy of the first 3 partitions and the last partition. If you select the c drive and look over to the left you will see details, note the start and end sectors of the partition. If the report of un readable sectors is in this range and preferably at the top end, you are likely to have got a good copy.
Something to note: These 2tb Seagate drives with that firmware version when they show these symptoms have a very short life like days not weeks. So you need to get the stuff off it Now.
Are you happy with the used Apple drive? I would check it first as it is used and quite old.

I have a HP Pavilion 15 Notebook PC and the keyboard has stopped working properly. I cannot type the letter 'H' unless I use the Shift Key. INSTEAD, it keeps bringing up online speech recognition even when I have turned it off.
The FN button has also stopped working an now when I press it, the NUMBER 6 appears over and over. When I put the caps lock on to type, and then hold shift, random LETTERS just appear like 5ZC2VX,M? 5ZC2VX,5ZC2VX,M5ZC2VX,M
I have CLEANED keyboard and still no luck. Language settings changed and still no luck
HELP!The HP 15 laptop is a privy machine worth keeping.

First thing to try is an external keyboard.

In Windows 10 another keyboard can work separately while the main keyboard is broken. 

Did you try that?

Yes, external keyboard works.

What's weird is that the h key is now working and the FN key is back to normal but the 'j' key is now not working.

Shift key still has random letters coming up when used whilst caps lock is on

I have ordered a replacement keyboard. Hope this works

My problem is with HD Audio. When i plug in Headphones Windows Ten Pro 64 does not detect them or if does the volume is really low even if turn it up in Windows. The Realtek Audio HD icon in Control Panel also does nothing at all.

 

I have Creative Cambridge Soundworks FPS2000 Surround Sound System. This is four SMALL speakers and and one big square one.

 

It was working fine until the other day. Usually i would plug in the Headphone the Realtek Audio Manager branded Asus comes up. This is the make of my Motherboard. I would then tick Headphones and click on OK. Then i would turn off the Cambridge speakers so the sound came through the Headphones. Any ideas? Thanks

 

Here is my System.

-----------------------------------------------------------

 

Windows 10 Pro 64-bit

CPU      Intel Core i7 2600K 3.40GHz    36 °C
Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology

RAM     12.0GB Single-Channel DDR3 668MHz (9-9-9-24)

Motherboard ASUSTeK Computer INC. MAXIMUS IV GENE-Z/GEN3 (LGA1155)    26 °C

Graphics

Generic Non-PnP Monitor ([email protected])
Intel HD Graphics 3000 (ASUStek Computer Inc)
1024MB ATI AMD Radeon HD 7700 Series (Sapphire/PCPartner)    27 °C
CrossFire Disabled

Storage

931GB Western Digital WDC WD10EZEX-00BN5A0 (SATA )    27 °C
28GB SanDisk Ultra USB Device (USB )

Optical Drives
ATAPI iHDS118 6
ATAPI iHAS524 D

Audio

Sound Cards

High Definition Audio Device
Realtek High Definition Audio
AMD High Definition Audio Device

Playback Device

Speakers (Realtek High Definition Audio)

Method-1
Plug the headphone in and restart your computer:
1) Plug your headphones into the computer.
2) Restart your computer and check to see if your headphone works.
If your headphone doesn’t get back on track, try the next fix below.

Method-2
Enable your Playback device:
1)  Make sure your headphone is connected to your PC.
2) Right-click the speaker icon in the notification area of your taskbar. Then click Sounds.
3) On the Playback tab, if you cannot see your headphone listed, right-click a blank area and select Show Disabled Devices. Then your device should show up
4)  Right-click your headphone and select Enabled.
5) Click OK to save the changes.
Once complete, check to see if your headphone problem goes away. In case it still remains, please head over to Method-3.

Method-3
Set your headphone as default device:
1) On your keyboard, press the Windows logo key and X at the same time.
2) Select Control Panel from the pop-up menu.
3) CHANGE your view to Category and click Hardware and Sound.
4) Click Sound.
5) On the Playback tab, select Headphones and click Set default.
Still facing problem then try Method-4

Method-4
Update your audio driver:
1) Download and install any driver tool.
2) Run the tool and click the Scan Now button. The tool will then scan your computer and detect any problem drivers. Update All to automatically download and install the correct versions of all the drivers that are missing or out of DATE on your system.
If Method-4 did not work then try Method-5

Method-5
Change the settings in Realtek HD Audio Manager:
1) Open Realtek HD Audio Manager.
2) Click the small folder icon in the upper right corner.
3) Check Disable front panel jack detection.
4) Click OK.
If Method-5 did not work then try Method-6

Method-6
Uninstall the IDT audio device:
1) On your keyboard, press the Windows logo key and X at the same time.
2) Select Control Panel from the pop-up menu.
3) Change your view to Large icons and click Programs and Features.
4) Locate IDT Audio Driver in the list, right-click on it, and choose Uninstall.
5) Restart your computer and check to see if your headphones are now working normally.

between 1 to 6 method one will be confirmed to solve your problem.
 Good day.

Hey everyone,

I am new to this forum so I hope that my post is in the right place.

I have bought the Lenovo YOGA 3 14 laptop and I have it since 2015. Model name: 80JH
When I first bought it, I have had the "Ghost" touchscreen issue, and I figured out a solution by installing a driver for it.
It was a very LONG time ago. I still have the .exe file on my PC.
It is called: "YOGA314TouchScreen_Solver_LG_Screen_Onl y_updatefwedidapp_x64"
From that point, everything was running smooth and excellent.

In the past few months, all of a sudden, the touchscreen has stopped working.
I didn't seem to find a solution anywhere.

Can someone tell why did it happen? How can I resolve this?
If there are any more details that I need to tell, PLEASE write me in the comments.Are you running 64bit Windows ? ?
If not it's the wrong driver...If you haven't ALREADY done so, you might want to post on the Lenovo forums: https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Lenovo-All-In-One-AIO-Desktops/Touchscreen-not-working/td-p/3719337 SHIPPED with Win 8...not 64 bit that i can see...

I have an Acer C22-720 All in ONE desktop.  It is slow, often freezes, and my bluetooth speaker often SKIPS and STUTTERS (I have the LATEST Bluetooth driver).  Is this model a LEMON or is there some component that is malfunctioning?

I've just bought a new monitor (Benq EW2780q) and was planning to connect it via HDMI (it only has HDMI and DISPLAY PORT and my PC doesn't have display port).

However, the HDMI cable doesn't seem to work from my computer (Chillblast, Windows 10) to the monitor.  The problem is with my PC, as the HDMI from the PC doesn't seem to work with any monitor (I was using VGA with my previous monitor, but I'm sure I've used HDMI in the past), and the monitor does work via HDMI from my laptop.

Am I right in assuming that the HDMI port on my PC is dead and I should exchange the monitor for a different model (which would be sad), or is there some setting I need to set or some other obvious way to make the port work? Quote from: guyshahar on March 15, 2020, 02:55:50 AM

I've just bought a new monitor (Benq EW2780q) and was planning to connect it via HDMI (it only has HDMI and display port and my PC doesn't have display port).
...
Am I right in assuming that the HDMI port on my PC is dead and I should exchange the monitor for a different model (which would be sad), or is there some setting I need to set or some other obvious way to make the port work?

Have you tried contacting Chillblast support?  Maybe there's a setting in the BIOS or elsewhere that needs to be toggled to enable HDMI.

I am UPGRADING my GPU from a 1660 ti to an RTX 2070, and I'm also upgrading my psu to a modular one (EVGA Supernova 750 G5).  The NEW GPU requires an 8 pin and 6 pin cable from the PSU, but since the psu is modular, I have two choices.  Option 1: I can use a single cable which is an 8 pin plug on the PSU end that splits at the other end with two 8 pin PLUGS (that can be either 8 or 6 as needed).  Option 2: I can use two separate cables which are an 8 pin plug each at the PSU, and a single 8 (8 or 6) pin at the other end.

My question is if I use the single cable with two connections on the GPU end, will that provide enough power to the GPU, or if I use the two separate cables, does that provide too MUCH power?

I have a Toshiba Satellite laptop, circa 2002, with Windows 97 OS.  There is a DOS database program that I would like to access however when I attempt to boot up, I get the message, System Disc required.  How can I obtain such a disc?To avoid overwriting data on the drive, you could always carefully remove the drive from laptop and install it into a external hard drive case for 3.5" drives. You will have to see if its a SATA or PATA hard drive. When its removed if it has a BUNCH of gold pins then its a IDE aka PATA drive. Installing the drive into this case that matches you can then connect it to USB port of a newer healthy computer and be ABLE to access your data through a modern healthy computer. Only issue with the DOS Database would be if its too old to run on Windows 10 because Windows 10 no longer supports 16-bit programs. However I think you could copy it to a DOSBOX environment and run it from there on Windows 10 if your running Windows 10 on current computer.

If you WANT to get the laptop back up and running finding the system recovery disc for this build might be tricky and if found would come at a COST. Given its age I very much doubt that Toshiba would be able to assist with this. You might be able to find a matching system recovery disc on ebay used for sale but you will want to make sure its exactly the one needed for your computer so that the drivers on it pair up properly to the hardware that requires the drivers.

Myself, I would go route of extracting the drive and installing it into proper empty external hard drive case and access it through a modern computers USB port.

Hi i just resently bought new pc PARTS for my pc and cant SEEM to get it to turn on for more than 3 seconds. I have tried lots of diffrent things but the only time i had any luck was when i started the pc with the stock intel cpu cooler not completely attached to the motherboard but, as soon as i fully atached the cooler, the pc shut itself off again. It seems to me LIKE there is some kind of shortage when all 4 clipps of the cpu cooler are attached but i cant seem to FIND where this shortage is directly coming from. Does anyone have any idea what the problem might be? if you need more information just ask Quote

Hi i just recently bought new PC parts for my PC a

Hello,

 

my Lenovo Ideacentre Flex 20's screen randomly began to flicker a few days ago. It does so in a pulsing motion at roughly five second intervals consistently (MEANING the flicker will last for five seconds and pause for five seconds), with this behavior mainly affecting the top portion of the screen. Upon starting my computer, the flickering only starts once Windows has fully loaded and begins with a small, barely NOTICEABLE spasm but after a few minutes progresses into a full blown rhythmic screen wave.

 

As far as EXTERNAL influences go, my computer was never dropped, hit or had any contact with water. The UNIT is basically brand new and never moves from my desk. Furthermore, my Ideacentre has never been in contact with any other device or anything with magnetic properties for that matter.

 

I would love to hear what a tech guy or someone knowledgeable with Lenovo products has to say. Does anyone have experience with this issue or had a similar problem?  I'm hoping it might be a software thing... Any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks for reading,

John

Try to boot in safe mode.
Link:
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/12376/windows-10-start-your-pc-in-safe-mode

If it still does it, then I must be hardware.Thanks for your reply, Geek-9pm. I just booted the computer in safe mode and it made no difference. From my description of the problem, do you have an idea of exactly what part needs to be repaired / replaced?To me it sounds as simple as the LCD cable to the display needs re-seated and/or replaced...
But you stated it wasnt dropped.Thanks, patio. I'll try to take the suggestion to someone who knows about computers and hopefully I can GET it done without breaking the bank.Any chance the computer is still under warranty?  AIO type computers are generally the most expensive to fix because they tend to use proprietary parts.

It could be something simple such as a loose cable like patio said or it could be the built-in graphics adapter or even the monitor itself.

I really screwed up this time. Trying to restore a backup image, I managed to erase everything on my external HD. Windows 10 shows the external HD in disk MANAGEMENT but apparently it is hidden. I was able to assign a new DRIVE letter but I am asked to enter a drive path and I do not have a clue how to do this. If I try to open the external HD I GET a MESSAGE saying the drive is not ready.

Will someone please help me? I am in way over my head. Thanks.Why do you say it's hidden??

Assuming there is nothing on the drive (or nothing you are trying to recover), in Disk Management right-click on the drive and format it. I'm guessing that will solve the problem. Make sure you select the correct drive to format.I can not open the hard drive. I get a message saying location is not available, device is not ready.

When I go into diskpart, Disk 1 shows online but volume 3 (active volume on disk 1) shows OFFLINE and would not let me put it on line. I can not format it because it is offline.

This external drive used to be the internal drive on my old PC. It has an active partition which is what I have been using and a small recovery partition which can not be formatted.

First post here, I apologize I'm PROBABLY only moderately computer literate, but would be thrilled if someone here has an explanation or solution to this problem.

Starting a few months ago, I've started hearing (regularly, but not always) quiet popping/static from my PC speakers when sound is playing (Spotify, YouTube, games, whatever). Sometimes when I pause all sound sources, then hit play again, the speakers won't play any sound at all, or they will produce very loud static, like an old CRT television on a dead channel. With the lack of sound/loud static, I can left click the sound settings icon on my taskbar ("Speakers (Creative SB X-Fi)" is my default), and select my other playback device ("VG248 (NVIDIA High DEFINITION Audio)"), leave it there for a few seconds, switch back to Speakers, and the problem is fixed (minus the regular-but-not-always quiet background popping/static when sound is playing). If I switch back to Speakers too quickly, however, I get more of the silence or incredibly loud, screeching static, switch to the other playback device once more, and wait longer before switching back again. I have tried searching lots of hardware troubleshooting forums and, THUS far, have not found anything that works (most SITES recommended going to Sound Devices via the Control Panel, selecting a playback device, going to Properties > Advanced, and changing the Default Format, i.e., bits/hertz, but this did not help me, unless just a specific one of the zillion settings would fix it and I didn't happen to select it in my trials).

Here are my device specifications (if more is needed, I apologize, let me know - I've also had a hard time finding a way to get more complete system specs in a format that I can copy and paste).

Processor: Intel Core i7 CPU 860 2.80 GHz 2.80 GHz Installed RAM: 16.0 GB System Type: 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor

Windows specifications Edition: Windows 10 Home
Version: 1909
OS build: 18363.719

Sound devices Card: Creative SB X-Fi
Speakers: Bose Companion 20

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti

Thank you kindly in advance for any assistance you can offer!

I've been using a MultiTech MT5656ZDX - V external Fax/Voice modem with a Serial cable connected to a USB adapter cable plugged into a USB Port for nine years.  The program I use to answer the phone and fax in/out of is VentaFax.  My OS is Win 7 32-bit.

With no warning a few weeks ago, the modem can see VentaFax when it's activated, but VentaFax gives me an error message. It can't recognize the modem.  I've tried querying the modem with the Windows Fax & Scan program. Same results. To be sure, I downloaded a new 15-day trial Fax/Voice program to test the modem in case the problem is the program.

During the installation, it queried the modem and said it was busy with another program which it was not. This cancelled the installation.

I hate to purchase a new modem if I don't need to, but it is 9 years old. I've considered completely uninstalling the Modem drivers and reinstalling them again, but if the modem is bad, I'll be wasting my time.

Any suggestions anyone? I'm a newbie here and would sure appreciate some help.This is from dictation; please overlook the obvious errors.
You'll find many people here willing to help you and that understand the kind of problem you're having. You say your new be, so I don't want to throw a lot of tech stuff that you and besides would probably would not help very much anyway.
I've been working with electronic technology since I can remember, but I'm not really a genius, I just have lots of experience and know a lot about a little bit. Things like facts machines and other gadgets sometimes will fail to work with Windows for reasons that it's hard to understand.
Let me make a comparison or what they call a parable. Imagining you're going fishing and you have the choice of fishing from a small pond or from a fast-moving Creek. It's going to be quite different. In the pond you know there's a limit about a fish available and once you've caught a number of them there might not be anymore left or if they are there hiding from you. But a fast-moving Creek is different. It is a stream and there could be always more fish coming down stream at you and if you miss a fish three gets away from the you probably keep on going downstream and you never see him again. Okay. This is help you understand the idea of a stream device. In your computer many external devices are considered to be stream devices because the information can change a lot and you can go back and recover it or get it back if you lose it. That's one of the definitions of a stream device. Well, sort of. It is just a METAPHOR but it conveys the idea of something that cannot easily be shared.
What this means is that some programs are mutually exclusive when it comes to sharing stream devices a stream device like a microphone or a fax or printer can only be used by one program at a time because it is a stream device. This means the program might exclude or shut out any other program that wants to use the device at the same time. This can be a real nuisance if you have the kind of program that stays in the BACKGROUND just laying to see if the stream devices become active.
Okay, I think I told enough you get the idea. You'll probably have to completely uninstall all the software drivers and programs related to the fax modem and just go get a new fax modem.
Why new? Because is no easy way to tell if your nine-year-old equipment is still in a GOOD. Maybe it is. One way to find out is to go get a completely new computer and see if the old equipment will work on a completely new computer. Of course, that is rather extreme. You would not do that as an individual but only if you are some kind of a corporation and you had to know.
Otherwise, as an individual, the most cost-effective thing is just to get a new modem and do a complete new installation of the software.
I'm trying to give you a quick answer and this may not be the answer that WORKS for you. I'm just giving you my quick opinion. I fooled around the stuff for years and years I've had this happen to me that I will give up on something and go buy something brand-new and then the old device that failed start to work again. That's just the way it is.
I HOPE this is of some help to you.   
There is several variables in your configuration which need to be isolated. There is the USB to serial adapter which must include electronics to do the conversion which may have failed. You can check this if you list what lights are on on the modem. The lights should be quite bright, if they are dim it could be the 9v plug pack is failing.
This is from the modem manual https://www.multitech.com/documents/publications/manuals/s000248m.pdf

Power-On Test
Test the modem by turning it on (an on-off switch is located on the side panel). When you apply power, the
modem performs a diagnostic self-test. The PWR indicator lights; and if a terminal program is running, the TR
indicator also lights. If this does not happen, check that the power switch is on, the power supply is solidly
connected, and the AC outlet is live. If these measures do not work see the Troubleshooting chapter.

Next check windows device manager for any exclamation marks. What driver is installed for the usb to serial adapter if it is a generic windows driver then try rolling back the driver.

Check your antivirus isn't blocking USB data flow. By shutting down the antivirus temporally.

If all of the above checks out then it could be windows setting up the usb modem support incorrectly. You can delete the USB support and re install with programs like USB oblivion https://www.cherubicsoft.com/en/projects/usboblivion

There are still USB dial up modems with fax support available if the modem is faulty. These are not a patch of the quality of the Multitech you have so would be worth doing a bit of diagnostic first before writing it off.
I suspect the 9 v Multitech power supply as the most likely cause of the problem these were early versions of switch mode power supply plug packs and failed if mounted horizontally. Like in a power distribution panel not a socket on the wall.

Just got my WD HDD. Bought it from a 3rd party seller on Newegg. Came in generic packaging with a July 31, 2013 date of manufacture. I assume it is new and genuine although the generic packaging is suspect. My main concern is date of manufacture. Should I accept this? I am worried about how the HDD could deteriorate sitting in a warehouse for 7 YEARS. Thx.is this date of manufacture on the drive itself, or just the packaging?

If the drive itself is from 2013 I would return it. Unless they disclosed that the products were new old STOCK then it was misleading to sell it as new, particularly when the drives are from 7 years ago.

It is unlikely the drive would have deteriorated just from not being USED though I would expect that some firmware bugs and design problems may have been present that WD resolved with further iterations and manufacturing runs.BC, thx for responding so fast. The date of manufacture is on the HDD nameplate.If it was made in 2013 it ain't new...Newegg authorized return and Token(3rd party seller) reluctantly agreed to waive restocking fee. Token said I got an unused OEM drive. Item description said it came with manufacturers WARRANTY but of course WD warranty expired a long time ago. Token said Newegg added standard boilerplate warranty info which does not apply to this item. Bought another HDD directly from WD. Will likely NEVER buy another HDD in my life; but, if I do, I will directly from manufacturer.

I have an Acer E5-511 laptop and just recently it started flickering after I put my password in and was taken to the desktop. It would flicker twice then SLEEP and I would have to touch the FINGER pad to turn my computer on again and I would be back at my idle screen, the one that has the time in big numbers. From there I would be able to go back to where I out my password in and it would log me in, flicker then turn off and take me to the idle screen. I know it's PROBABLY just dying LIKE the hardware or something but, due school being MOVED online, it would be convenient if I could try to get it to work again. Thank you for your help.

Can you h help me find cheap Bluetooth speakers? 
Short list:
ANKER SoundCore 2. RATING: 4.5 stars. ...
Tribit XSound Go. Rating: 4 stars. ...
Doss SoundBox. Rating: 4 stars. ...
EasyAcc Mini. Rating: 4 stars. ...
VicTsing Wireless. Rating: 4 stars. ...
HUSSAR MBox. Rating: 4 stars. ...
Zosam Portable Bluetooth Wireless Speaker. ...
SoundBot SB510 HD.
Link:
https://www.tomsguide.com/us/pictures-story/918-best-cheap-bluetooth-speakers.html

Tanks for you suggestions.   I have an Anker Soundcore Mini, looks to go for around $30 now, probably since they have a new model. It works well enough, pretty impressed with it given it's SIZE. It also has a MicroSD slot and can play MP3 files from it (haven't tried other file types).Here is some Bluetooth speakers' list you should check-
https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/best-cheap-bluetooth-speakers/Tanks for the link .
I got one like mentioned in that article.
Later on I will report back. 
The first thing you’re going to want to do is figure out what you’re going to use it for and the features that could be of use. If you’re looking for one for use around around the house, a virtual assistant like Amazon Alexa could be a worthwhile addition.

Useful links :

https://www.digitaltrends.com/dtdeals/best-cheap-bluetooth-speaker-deals/

https://www.audioreputation.com/best-cheap-bluetooth-speakers-under-50/

I was prompted to update after that, NONE of my DESKTOP icons would work (open)!
Even google won't open.
I went to task manager and I GET the message "there are no running apps."

Any suggestions?more info...what happened prior ? ?...what WIN ver...? What apps ? ?
Hello dear
i am unable to type right now. Please check this site do the following steps as they told, i hope it MIGHT solve your problem

So your laptop does not have camera?
Why pay $25 to $100 for a Web Cam?
Well, you you like, you can use an old android phone as a WEBCAM.
To find some recent articles, just Google:
Use phone as a web cam.

Here is one I wish to try:

Use phone as webcam
    How to use your Android phone as a webcam for STREAMING Ensure your Android phone is connected to Wi-Fi for best results. Download the #LiveDroid application from the Google Play Store. Open #LiveDroid on your phone. For best effects, tap run in BACKGROUND because it's more efficient and lets you run it with the display turned off.

https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-your-android-phone-webcam-streaming

But it is hard for me to GET it to work.   
 Any ideas about how to make it easy?

I have an Ideapad Flex 4-1470 but my laptop likes deleting things. When I select a FILE it pops up 10 SCREENS asking me if I want to delete the file. When I put the cursor somewhere on the text that isn't the end it starts to delete the letters as if I am holding it in and not like the backspace but like the delete. So when I navigate with arrows it also deletes the text extremely quickly.
I have tried everything thing I can think of from resetting the computer completely, SCANNING for viruses, update all the drives, opening the back and front and checking for something pressing the "delete" key and have installed many repair apps and troubleshoots. NONE of these have helped and the problems only started after the motherboard was replaced.

Please help or point in the right direction I am lost and don't know what to do.

Periodically my computer switches itself off. I suspect there is a component in the PSU which is over heating as the PSU case feels warmer than usual.  The top of the computer case also feels the same where the PSU is located.

I’ve noticed when I’ve restarted the computer things begin to settle down,  the case of PSU begins to cool down and can remain that way for several hours, until the computer turns itself off again. I’ve removed one side of the computer to provide some extra ventilation, even so this may not be ENOUGH. Is there anything ELSE I can do?

I’ve been thinking of getting another machine as the one I have is FAIRLY old. Of course, it would have to happen when the COUNTRY is in lockdown and all the computer suppliers are closed at the moment.

Thanks in ADVANCE

Hi everyone. 5 days ago i was using my pc as usual, when suddenly it turns off. After that, every time i start it, it keeps rebooting before enter windows. I've formatted the hd, but can't install windows again because the pc throws a screen error and reboots everytime the installation begins.
What i did:
1) HDD: Not the problem, i've tried with a new SSD and got the same problem.

2) BIOS: Installed the last BIOS driver and changed the battery

3) Graphic Card: Took it off the pc and started with only the integrated card. Same problem

4) RAM: First problem: If i run memtest86 with the two sticks plugged in, it crashes and reboots. I took off one (the 4gb) and tried with the 8gb and the test runs perfectly.

5) PSU: I've checked with the multimeter without any device plugged, just the psu, and the numbers are right.



Screen error: https://freeimage.host/i/05847a89-8b5c-4b58-8585-09c8016bc31d.JCAUZu



My setup is:



amd fx 6300 3,5 ghz
12 gb ram ddr3 (8gb and 4gb)
amd radeon 7700 1mb 150 mhz
asus m5a78L-M usb3
1tb WD10ezex
PSU 650w sentey black box

Some extra data:
- The temps  are fine according to the BIOS. All coolers are working.

- When i start the pc, i have to wait about 5' to have video signal and power in the mouse/keyboard

- Sometimes the case display works, sometimes does not starts.

- 4 months ago i've changed the CPU's termal paste

I dont know what else to do or check, and since we are in quarantine, i cant take the pc anywhere.
Any advice will be welcome! Ty all!One of those RAM stiks is the issue...try the CLEAN install with the one that passed...I've tried with the two sticks separately in every one of the 4 slots, and every time i got the same problem.

Recently i've started the pc without the external graphic card (only with the integrated) + one ram stick (4gb) and TESTED the 12v line with the multimeter from the start untill it crashes and reboots. Starts at 11,30v and crashes with 11,70v...

By these numbers i guess the problem is not the PSU, right?

Could be the ram slots? How can i check the motherboard?Whenever testing with only 1 stik of RAM it goes in the slot closest to the CPU...
Thats a garbage PSU BTW if it came with that case.I took this photo of the PSU (can't open it because the screws are bad, tomorrow i will try again)
Does it look bad?

https://freeimage.host/i/psu.JCYGS4
It's the power supply. The 12volts should be constant if it is changing and going as low as 11.3v then the power supply needs to be replaced. Get a good quality supply even in the lock down you should be able to get one couriered to you.

Something like this one if it is available in your country   Silverstone TUF Gaming ET550-HG 550W Modular ATX 80plus GOLD PSU

In the photo you just posted the white glue is there to hold the components (capacitors) during manufacture it is not a failing component. Those parts look to be in the power supply output circuit and confirms Patio's statement "Thats a garbage PSU BTW if it came with that case."
I see... Well, i will search what options i have available here and see what is the best for my pc. Ty a lot!Today i checked these numbers in te BIOS and they look pretty good to me (still have the same restart problem). If the PSU is the problem, why these numbers are correct?

https://freeimage.host/i/2dcdf603-5846-4b43-a751-797218792830.JCsifS

Ty all!Because there is little or no system load when you are in the BIOS...thats why.Hi
The numbers are not correct. 5.19v reading on the 5 V rail is on the verge of being out of tolerance which is a maximum of 5.2 v and a minimum of 4.8 v.

I would believe your multi meter over the motherboard voltage sensors. Also a switch mode power supply should be sensing the output voltages and compensating for differing loads. Your power supply isn't doing this and is likely if it fails to GO over voltage causing substantial damage. You should replace it if only for this reason.

Okey so here is a little background. At my moms place I have a new computer with monitor and it all worked out fine. Becouse of querentine I brought my PC to my dads plase. There I havr not OLD monitor but wigher than the 1st one. When I hooked up that monitor it was only on the HALF SCREEN and blinking. I changed the resolution and nothing still half screen so I went back to my 1st monitor and hooked it up  and now it says D-USB our of range. Both of moniotrs have VGA, and my computer reqires HDMI so I bought VGA->HDMI and pluged in. If there are any questions ASK freely and if someone can HELP I would really be glad and thanksfull.
PS : English is not my mother thoung so if there are any mistakes I am sorry.

How to get rid of soft bad sectors obtained from cloning a faulty disc?have you run CHKDSK command to repair soft bad sectors? here are steps:

1. Press the Windows key and type cmd.
2. Right-click "Command Prompt" and choose "Run as administrator".
3. Type chkdsk E: /f /r /x and hit Enter. (Replace E with the drive letter of your hard drive.) Quote from: OliverYY on April 02, 2020, 02:13:55 AM

have you run CHKDSK command to repair soft bad sectors? here are steps:

1. Press the Windows key and type cmd.
2. Right-click "Command Prompt" and choose "Run as administrator".
3. Type chkdsk E: /f /r /x and hit Enter. (Replace E with the drive letter of your hard drive.)

then that drive is completely failing and you need to back it up. althought there are programs claim to "fix" bad sectors without data loss, but in my experience, they never have.

I would advise you to recover the data from the bad sector first first and you can use data recovery software like iBoysoft Data Recovery to recover your data: https://iboysoft.com/data-recovery/free-data-recovery.html. once you will get the whole data recovered, it's time to reformat the drive for usable again.

but formatting can only fix bad sectors that aren't physical, generally related to a software issue that leads the sector to be marked bad. if you fail to format your drive, then the issue results from physical corruption. Physically damaged bad sectors of the hard drive can not be repaired, prepare for replacement. if it's still under warranty, who owns it doesn't matter. i had a 1 TB Seagate drive with some bad sectors, I sent it to Seagate and they shipped me out a brand new drive.

good luck！

Download and run seatools: download hard disk test

You cannot "get rid" of bad sectors. Running either chkdsk /r or the repair function of a reliable hd utility will move the data from those bad sectors to good sectors and mark the bad sectors as unusable. If there are a LOT of bad sectors you should replace the drive.
Also, I deleted your duplicate post. Only one thread per topic please.

NTFS only: Clears the list of bad clusters on the volume and rescans all allocated and free clusters for errors. /b includes the functionality of /r. Use this parameter after imaging a volume to a new hard disk drive.

use the /b option on chkdsk. This will re-evaluate whether the sectors marked as bad in the file system are indeed bad. It's actually designed for this particular scenario:

From here.

use the /b option on chkdsk. This will re-evaluate whether the sectors marked as bad in the file system are indeed bad. It's actually designed for this particular scenario:

From here.

I have a Canon TR8520 on my Wi Fi network. It frequently does not print:
- Documents sit in "Printer Properties" and never print
- Sometimes I get a generic "Error" message
- Sometimes I can print from my PC and she will have errors from hers.
- Sometimes my wife's iPhone can "see" the printer, some times it can't
- Other errors I can't think of right now

Usually I go into services.msc, stop the Print Spooler and restart, and everything is fonzie. On rare occcasions, I've had to go into Win32 and delete what's in the spool - but usually that spooler restart kicks out the jobs. But of course, that's only if the job makes it into the spooler (if my wife's phone doesn't see it, for example, that doesn't help).

But this is getting to be untenable.

This is happening on my home wifi network, which tends to be pretty robust. It's been taking a punch lately (Zoom, Teams, NETFLIX, Sonos) but the printer is the only thing suffering.

This seems to be happening daily, but it could be more or less often. I notice its IP changes frequently. It is set to never go to sleep.

We both are using Windows Surfaces; hers is SP2 and mine is SP5. Both are Win 10 64 bit.

Is there anything I can do about this? Canon's help sites are pretty weak. I have tried uninstalling and reinstalling on both PCs. A "factory reset" on the printer itself doesn't seem to do the trick.


I recently bought the Canon because it was recommended, and I had to scrap all my HP printers because they stopped playing nice with my PC.

.Sorry to hear you're having so much trouble with your Canon printer.
Without more detail, I guess you're using some type of 802.11 wireless connection from your router to your printer. As you know, this type of connection is not guaranteed to be error-free. Yet most people are able to use it in their home in the distance between the router and the device is only a few meters, or about 20 feet or so. The wireless signal also have to compete with fluorescent lights, microwave ovens and any other wireless division devices nearby. Or maybe that is not the problem. However, you have to consider moving the printer around because that's what everybody else is going to tell you anyway.
That's the best I can offer.
Go to Device Manager...rite clik the printer and select properties...select Advanced...uncheck "Let Windows turn this off to SAVE power"...
Reboot after.I don't have an "Advanced" tab (see attached picture). I feel like I went through this with my HP printer, too...

In the meantime, how will changing that on *my* machine impact the printer's visibility on, say, my wife's iPhone?

Thanks!Whats in the settings Tab ? ?
Not a whole lot.If the auto-connect method is not working then the manual connects maybe work. Click HERE for information on connecting the printer to the network using the Manual Connect method. Click HERE for information on connecting the printer to the Windows OS.
Hope your problem will be solved.Thanks. The challenge is in its sporadic nature.

Most of the time - 95 percent of the time - even if it won't print, the display on the printer shows a legitimate IP on my network. (A handful of times it's had the 169.169 nonsense). And if it shows a legit IP on the network, I can go to URL. But that doesn't mean it actually prints!Also, lately - I will print a document. Even after I have a hard copy in my hands, it will SHOW in the queue as STATUS "Printing", and the LCD Panel on my printer shows "Printing..."

On my laptop, my old HDD stopped working so I've replaced it with an SSD (WD Blue 3D NAND 2,5" 500GB). An local computer expert said it will be compatible. After inserting SSD computer launched smoothly. Installed Linux, restarted. When power button was pressed, nothing happened. Tried removing battery, holding power button for 30 seconds - powering up without and with battery - removing SSD - removing RAM. I've USED multimetr and now I KNOW that the computer power adapter works properly and that there is power in my motherboard.

So, on my old HDD BIOS was COMPLETELY different from BIOS on my new SSD. I'm unable to reset BIOS.

Please, help me, I'm desperate. A HDD does not change the BIOS...are you sure the Linux install completed > >
If not start over...Can you post the make and model of the Laptop please?
I wonder what you needed to dismantle to install the hard drive so the make and model should help.
With this info we can also check what lights maybe on the laptop.
 Hi
If it is the Asus Laptop in your specs can you first check the cable running over the hard drive is seated correctly at both ends. or as it is just for a couple of connections you could TRY it without the cable. also remove the usb board i have shown in the attachment to test you are not getting a short where the board and the DVD drive hard drive  are screwed thru.
Also do you get a power light and charging light indication?

Bought i5 9700f and h310 TODAY, spent 6 hours on trying to make it work graphics card has been put correctly processor checked ram 6 TIMES everything boots but no displayTry with only 1 stik of RAM in slot nearest CPU...also remove vid card and USE onboard til you can install everything ESPECIALLY DRIVERS...
You sure its the correct RAM ?