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Hi all,

When I was looking for a solution for my peculiar situation, I came across this forum.

So this morning, I was working on my computer, when it suddenly shut itself off completely.  When I TRIED to power back on, the fans started spinning, but then no MB beep and no display.  Since I "always" leave my computers running and hardly ever switch them off, I thought to just let it cool down for a couple of hours and try again, no luck.

I tried booting up with just one (in stead of two) display (Eizo monitor) and all of the USB devices disconnected - no luck
When looking, it could be the PSU, so replaced it with an old, still perfectly working one, but no luck.
Switched back to the PSU that was installed and while at it, disconnected the RAM and made sure there was no debris or dust in there and also took out the GPU, and all other cables and replugged them - no luck
I disconnected all SSD's and HDD's in my computer and tried again, but, as you can suspect, no luck!
I also tried connecting a wired keyboard and keep hitting F8 to start up in safe mode - no luck.

So when I turn the computer ON, EVERY starts working, although the GPU is spinning at hyperspeed. The PSU fan starts spinning, and then turns off (the older one, a 750W, kept spinning, but since this one is a 1200W, I assume it doesn't need to be engaged at this time). The fan in the front, as well as the watercooling fan for the CPU is spinning, but there is not the familiar BEEP or anything else, nor can I see anything on my display.

I was hoping to SOLVE this, as I am an professional photographer and when calling a store in the neighborhood, they told me it would be at least 2-3 weeks before I would get it back and I can't really miss my main computer that long..

I haven't added any new hardware or software in the last couple of weeks/months, so don't suspect that to be an issue... I think it's more a hardware issue.

My specs :
WIN10 x64
MB: GIGABYTE GA-X79-UP4 (rev1.1)
CPU : Intel  i7 4930K
GPU : GTX770 2 Gb(Gigabyte Geforce)
PSU : HX1200i (corsair) (the older one is Antec750w continuous power)
RAM : 64GB Kingston DDR3 8Gb (4)
Corsair Watercooling
2 SSD's, 4 HDD's, cardreader USB3.0 (internal), DVD-read/writer.

Not sure if I've missed anything, if I did, let me know.Have you tried booting with all HDD's disconnected >? ?

If that fails and it shuts down my 1st suspect would be the watercooler... Quote from: patio on October 01, 2020, 02:15:30 PM

Have you tried booting with all HDD's disconnected >? ?

If that fails and it shuts down my 1st suspect would be the watercooler...

So im umclear...what happened when you booyed with no drives attached ?

My MONITOR says no signal when I have my RAM in correctly and EVERYTHING plugged in what can I do?
More INFO...what happened prior to this ? ?
Did you add/change RAM ? ?...What OS ? ?

I have a dell xps8500 which origionally had windows 7. As of june 2020, i UPGRADED my computer to windows 10 home. LATELY i am having problems with my graphics card gefore gtx620 and my 1tb HARD drive. i changed my graphics card to a msi geforce gtx1050ti w/4gb mem and brought a Seagate 1TB BarraCuda 6Gb/s ST1000DM010 3.5" Drive with Dell Windows 10 Included. i also upgraded the ram of the computer to 12gb.The graphics card works fine and so does the ram. Here's where i'm stuck. My computers bios is on LEGACY mode and i want to clone my old drive which is a 1tb toshiba st1000 also but my old hd is in mbr format and the new hdd is stating GPT. i already connected both drives to the internal casing and am ready to clone. I am using Macrium reflect 7 to clone the drives but since one drive is in mbr format(C: local) and the new in Gpt format (newly installed)im afraid after cloning, my new drive will not BOOT up in bios when i replace the old hd for the new. Also i'm not seeing anything on disk management that states the new drive has windows 10 installed. all i see is two partitions on the new drive that says (1)none partition unformatted and (2)data ntsf primary. can someone please help me here.Sorry for the long explanation.

Hi, this my first post on here so how you do.

I have just started a custom upgrade on my current system

I am using a X570 motherboard from gigabyte the master version (bios version f11)  a 3950 Ryzen CPU 64gb of memory and two Nvidia GPU:s, 2 x m.2 and 3x sata ports

The issue is I can only see one GPU in the bios, which is seated in 16x slot one.

The second GPU is in the 8x slot two

On BOOT up to the bios I don't see the second slot or it is not being picked up in the Bios software manager, ok before Its pointed out my testing of the issue started with Gigabyte tech support after different things such as:

1 clearimg the Cmos, I have swapped the cards and also run them separately
I have change settings in the bios relating to the bifurcation PCIe not to MENTION the GEN config from auto through to Gen 4

I am started to thing this a faulty motherboard, but this is the second motherboard and both are brand new out of the box and from two different companies, my reasoning was in the  hope I would eliminate a common MANUFACTURERS fault.

My question is can two gpu's be run independently on this motherboard and if so how do I get both GPUs to be seen in biosCheck the manual before giving up....on some MBoards you have to dis-able a SATA port for both slots to be available...
GigaByte also has a Forum.Hi

What two Nvidia GPU:s are you using as it is likely they don't work together. Is there a reason to be using 2 cards?

It appears Nvidia SLI is not supported with your motherboard.

Hello! So, I aquired a bunch of broken motherboards in the intent of fixing them (component level). After doing some resistance CHECKS on the board in question, I figured it must be working and plugged my CPU, PSU, a RAM stick of 1600 MHz and an R7 240 (since the board doesn't offer an iGPU solution). Powering it on went well and all, the board would display the boot logo, would beep once as in "the POST is good", but would not RESPOND to the USB keyboard (known good, works on any other device) and wouldn't flash the lock lights on it either. Basically, I cannot enter the BIOS.

The board also reboots after displaying the motherboard logo.

Any idea what could be the cause? A corrupt BIOS? Maybe a wrong BIOS on the backup BIOS chip, as that seems to have been replaced by someone?Hi

Your motherboard supports a PS2 keyboard which should work and allow you to enter the cmos setup.
If it does check the USB ports are enabled in Dos MODE and are enabled.

If you don't have a PS2 keyboard SOMETIMES the 2 USB ports above the ps2 port work when the others don't.  Nope, nothing. I've also checked the VOLTAGE on the PS/2 and USB connector. It fluctuates between 0 and 5V as the board initializes the BIOS, which is wierd. At startup, the voltage is consistently 5, while the BIOS is starting it fluctuates.

After i start my Pc i neither get a signal a to my monitor nor do my keyboard or mouse have power . I ALREADY tried to FIX it by removing cmos for some time and then put it back in , but it did not help . I also hear all the regular boot sounds . Thanks in advanceDid anything happen between the LAST time it ran healthy and now? Bad STORM with lightning, brown out, or computer was UPGRADED or cleaned etc to which something physically could have gone wrong causing this?

In the process of building a new gaming box, I decided to open my existing Windows 10 box to SEE what would be involved in moving disks over to the new build. I just looked, but when I reassembled the case the reboot failed. The cpu fan and both case fans spin briefly, less than a second, then nothing else happens.

Any IDEAS? I have reseated the power connectors and SATA cables, thinking I might have touched something, but no change. Help!Unclear...is this the old case or the new one ? ?
Check power plugs to both the GPU and CPU...It was the old PC, but it is now fixed! Turns out I had left a failed SATA drive in the box and MUST have PLUGGED it back in as I closed it back up. Strange symptoms though, lol.

Hello community,

I have a problem with my notebook. I was working with him normally, but next day when i wanted to start the notebook nothing happened.
The only signal it gives is the POWER light flashing when connected to the mains.

I read somethings on internet, i've tryed REMOVE battery and disconected power press on/off BUTTON for some minutes... and dont solved.
I've tryed remove the keyboard (happened to some guys on internet) nothing else..

Any ideas about what happened and how can i solve that?

Thanks

(PS: sorry my english, maybe many errors there )On first thanks for your reply.

I've tryed something LIKE this...but now again and it not work.

When i connect the charger, the power light flashes on white. I think it should be ORANGE and without flashing.
Someone told me that something might be short-circuited. Can be?

Thanks for your time.You need to drain the battery first.

I Had the same problem for couple times. As soon the battery drained, plug in the PSU and you will find the battery LED comes on orange without the power LED comes on.

hello. i just got a clone 486 pc and have decided to upgrade the board. however I have no manual to reference the jumper settings. there is no manufacture info or numbers on this board. can anyone point me in the right direction or offer solid advise? cheers.Hi
Perhaps post a PICTURE of the motherboard. Most boards of that vintage had legends somewhere on the board as to jumpers they may not be next to the jumpers them self, but where there is clear space.
Also with an image you can use "search GOOGLE for image" to get a MODEL and manufactureHi thanks for the response. unfortunately there is no markings of any type that shows a legend or manufacture. oh the pains of vintage gear. thanks any way. cheers.
Have you looked on the bottom of the board ? ?
Is there an FCC #...those are searchable on google. Quote from: Damage Inc on October 09, 2020, 07:38:11 PM

hello. i just got a clone 486 pc and have decided to upgrade the board.

Custom i7 Gaming PC

Intel i7 6700k 4.00GHz Water cooled
Asus z170 Pro Gaming motherboard
16Gb DDR4
256g M.2 SSD with windows 10
2x 500g samsung SSD
GTX 1660 Ti 6g
WiFi cars
Asus sound card
Corsair icue 220T RGB case
850W Thermaltake Semi-modular power supplyGood for 700$
But I don't know why You buying old i7
Better use i5 9400f,because:
  - Cheaper for 140$
  - Little BIT faster
  - Do not need water cooling. BOX cooler is enough
  - 1151 v2 socket, so You can upgrade it in future without changing MB again
Saved money from CPU (140$) and water cooling (~50$) You can waste for better GPU (1070 or 2060). Or even used 2070 super

Hi everyone,
So I recently GOT into building computers, I've had a gaming rig for a while but I just did a hardware upgrade by myself for the first time (CPU and motherboard, MSI Z390M GE AC). I accidentally had the mobo touching the case in a few spots when I tried to boot it. It worked fine but I would get frequent BSODs or freezing.
My buddy at work HELPED me reseat it and we updated all the drivers and stress tested everything to make sure things weren't damaged (CPU, GPU, RAM, new SSD and new HDD).
When I play a game the PC will freeze about 10 minutes in, sometimes longer sometimes shorter depending on the load of the game. However, when I activate game boost the games run perfectly fine for hours.
So my question is: Why do games cause my computer to freeze when not overclocked? Is it because of a possible motherboard short? Or is it MAYBE something else?There is so many reasons it could be.
Please supply a speccy report the program is available here       https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy
After the program runs select file, publish snapshot and copy the url here for review.

Also can you give the make and model of the power supply.

If you can supply some pictures of the inside of the computer this might help as well.  Quote from: Lisa_maree on August 13, 2020, 03:14:05 PM

There is so many reasons it could be.
Please supply a speccy report the program is available here       https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy
After the program runs select file, publish snapshot and copy the url here for review.

Also can you give the make and model of the power supply.

If you can supply some pictures of the inside of the computer this might help as well.

There is so many reasons it could be.
Please supply a speccy report the program is available here       https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy
After the program runs select file, publish snapshot and copy the url here for review.

Also can you give the make and model of the power supply.

If you can supply some pictures of the inside of the computer this might help as well. 

Thanks for the Photo's and speccy report. I have checked thru the report and the only thing I can see is is the 2 different memory modules, g-skill and kingston. They are in the correct slots thou.

When the speccy report was run you were only using the first 3 gb of G.Skill 8gb modules and as you play the game you are using more of the g.skills memory until you have used 16 GB then the Kingston memory comes into play.

I suspect there is a problem with either the timing on the Kingston memory or there is a fault in that memory, why it didn't show up in the stress test I can't answer.

As the Kingston memory is from 2014 perhaps try the computer with only the G.skill memory installed.

Hi

So even with the Kingston memory out the computer still locked up? You do know that Game boast optimizes memory use. When the computer freezes can you ctrl alt delete and check task manager. If you do that and shut down the game does windows still work ?
if windows is still running then it is a fault with the game or memory. This could be software errors on the drive caused with the games locking up and crashing when the computer was intermittent before your friend helped you re build it.
I would un install the game which is locking up and re install it.
Also is there anything in the windows logs showing what is causing the crash.
How to get to the logs is explained here https://kb.blackbaud.com/articles/Article/75433#:~:text=To%20access%20the%20Event%20Viewer,(ex%3A%20Application%2C%20System)

Wrong RAM...

Are you overclocking?  If so undo it and test again you might want to also try uninstalling MSI Afterburner then reboot and test again.

Hello there! I'm having some problems breathing life back into my dad's old computer.
I have a little experience with building a computer and fiddling with the bios, but most of that is limited to my 2019 build, so I'm running into a few walls trying to get this computer running again.
Here's what I do know:

-The computer starts. The power supply is fine, the fans all work, and there's enough RAM to prevent immediate crashing.
-It doesn't boot. There's either a problem with the hard drives, or a problem with the software, or a connection issue with the hardware. I've made sure all the connections (that I can see) are correctly seated, but there might be some missing cables I don't know about.

I don't know much about the actual guts of the computer. I know it has one RAM card right now, and two hard drives, but I'm unsure if those are still useable or not. It sounds like they spin up, so hopefully they are still okay. It also has two CD-ROMs and one floppy disk drive. I believe the motherboard is from MSI (its the company logo that shows up on start).
I'm also not sure about that OS it's running. I suspect it's Windows 98, but this is only a guess.
I've booted it up a couple of times, trying a few different routes to get it to work. The first time, I just let it run on its own until it encountered an error:

PXE-E61: Media test failure, check cable
PXE-M0F: Exiting INTEL PXE ROM

Boot failure from previous device..

Boot failure
Insert BOOT diskette in A:
Press any key when ready

The second time, I tried to get into the bios, but I wasn't able to. I pressed Tab instead to enter POST (which I don't know what that is) and it began auto-checking for PRIMARY and secondary masters and slaves. It found none, and the screen promptly went black.
I'm guessing there's either a software issue, one that will require me to dig through the plethora of floppy disks that are hiding in the basement and hope that I can find the one which allows me to successfully reboot the computer, or there's a hardware problem which I haven't been able to diagnose.
I'm hoping someone here might be able to give me a little direction so I can get this beautiful dinosaur on its feet again ^^
Edit: after some testing and actually touching the HDD's, it seems that they are not spinning up. SINCE the CD-ROMs are functioning (I put a disk in and they spun up fine) its not the power supply. Possibly a cable that needs replacing, or the hard drives have straight up died.
I have some spare ones lying around, but I'm not sure if they'll work in the old setup, and on top of that the floppy disk reader is non-functional as well, so I'd have to somehow pre-load Windows 98 or 95 onto it (I'm starting to think the original operating system was 95 based on the floppy disk I found).
Would this work? Are there some other workarounds that might work? I could use some ideasReplace the cmos battery on the motherboardAllan's advice to replace the battery is a good start. Given it's age it's likely it's petered out by now. Though, even without a battery, EIDE auto-detection should be finding the drives, so I suspect perhaps they may have failed as well.

Quote

he power supply is fine

Since the CD-ROMs are functioning (I put a disk in and they spun up fine) its not the power supply.

PXE-E61: Media test failure, check cable

I pressed Tab instead to enter POST (which I don't know what that is) and it began auto-checking for primary and secondary masters and slaves. It found none, and the screen promptly went black.

A colony of ants MOVED into my laptop while a relative had it in his car for a couple days. The colony of ants and their babies occupied every inch of my laptop they could find. In an EFFORT to get rid of them I disassembled the laptop and did a successful cleaning.
When I reassembled it I realized I had left out the part shown in the pics. I was even more upset when i realized that i had no idea where on the laptop it came from.  The laptop is a TOSHIBA SATELLITE M305D-S4831. I know its old but except for some memory issues ( which I can easily fix) it was working fine. If anyone can tell me where the part belongs on this MACHINE I would be grateful. Grateful enough to buy you 5 bux worth of stuff.

Thanks in advance.  Looks like it is part of the lid hinge.  Does the laptop open and close fine?It opens and CLOSES just fine. I did TRY to see if it would fit on the hinge but I was unsuccessful. I will try again though. Thanks.

Hello fellow computer persons,


I was asked by a small family business to connect a all in one printer to 4 WORK station. In the past i have used a small 2 port USB printer sharing device at home so that my wife and I can share one printer. The printer sharing device(USB Hub)that we use has a auto SWITCHING feature so we dont have to manually switch the printer to our own computer every time we need to print. My QUESTION is do they make a
4 port printer sharing device (I believe its called a printer server). I am sure they do but can anybody recommend a good one? I am sure it is a MATTER or connecting cables and installing the software on each computer? I am I missing anything??

Albert O Network the 4 computers and then share the printer over the network is the easiest way.  The printer can be wifi connected (if it has that capability) or it can be physically connected to one of the 4 computers.  If physically connected to 1 of the 4, then that computer will need to be powered on in order for any of the others to print. No switches need to be installed and each computer will have access to the printer at all times.

I have a 500GB WD external drive.  I was using it fine with my windows 7 laptop  Then I needed to save some data from my windows 10 laptop, so I plugged it into that laptop.  It made that connect sound, but would not show up in windows explorer.  Okay, so now I went into system management, manage disk drives.  It was listed there as disk 1, but under that it said not initialized.  And wen I right clicked on the disk, it said "Initialize with MBR or GUID, and GUID was prechecked.  Anyway, I did that, but still no luck, it said cannnot be done, and some error I forget what EXACTLY.  I then did it with the other option checked.  It again gave some error message and said cant be done. 
Now the hard disk is not EVEN being read on the original windows 7 laptop, and I see the same disk not initialized message in system management.  What should I do, I dont want to lose all the data on my external hard drve
Simple and may sound a silly answer(Worked for me) connect your External HD to another computer.and if shows up as normal,then connect again to your PC and see if fixed?....incidentally in my Experience External HD are notorious for failing....Hi
It would help if you could give the drive part number it is on the label with the serial number.
Can you hear the drive spinning when it is plugged in?. If not it is likely not getting enough current from the usb port. Try the drive in a USB 3.0 port, if still not spinning are you using the usb cable supplied with the drive. If the drive is USB 3 then use a usb 3 cable not a micro usb cable.

If the data is important on the drive please stop trying to initialize the disk.

   Whatever the original problem was with Win 10 not recognizing the drive correctly, you COMPOUNDED it by trying to initialize the disk.  Even if you hadn't gotten the error, you would have ended up with a blank disk with all data wiped. Were you aware that initialize is another term for format? Quote from: strollin on May 30, 2020, 07:14:29 AM

Whatever the original problem was with Win 10 not recognizing the drive correctly, you compounded it by trying to initialize the disk.  Even if you hadn't gotten the error, you would have ended up with a blank disk with all data wiped. Were you aware that initialize is another term for format?

I flipped my breaker somehow and afterwards my ram's led's are in a loop and I cannot change them off the stock RAINBOW setting. I've posted my question on the "pcpartpicker forums" but they're suggestions did not work. I don't actually know if the problem is my ram or my motherboard and I have no way of checking! I thought at first it was for sure my ram but when I run widows MEMORY diagnostic the led's seem to function correctly and the report said there were no problems with my memory. I've reset the cmos battery and used a cmos jumper but neither have given POSITIVE results. I have a msi x370 krait and 32gb 4x8 3000mhz TFORCE delta rgb ram. All four memory modules do not function properly but all four do run and play games like usual it's only the rgb that doesn't work, i've never had any crashes or any blue screens but the led's are bothering me tremendously! My $1500 gaming computer looks like a gay pride flag and while I have the money to fix it I just don't want to buy a new ram kit just to be let down that I actually need a new motherboard. Is there any software to diagnose my motherboard? I'm leaning toward my motherboard being the problem but I really don't know about this one, anyone got any knowledge I don't have? any help would be APPRECIATED! uncool to have the bash to gay pride flag as an example of your LED display. Please have questions here that avoid bashing any types of people in the context.  I would check in the Device manager there is no problem with the SMBus driver.
As the lights work and are working in windows memory diagnostics it is likely a windows error. Not hardware.

You could check for any restore points before the power outage. And restore back if there is any.

Or check the windows files with SFC. To do this, click Start, type Command Prompt or cmd in the Search box, right-click Command Prompt, and then click Run as administrator. If you are prompted for an administrator password or for a confirmation, type the password, or click Allow. The SFC /scannow

 

 Topic Closed.

Hi, this my first post on here so how you do.

I have just started a custom upgrade on my current system

I am USING a X570 motherboard from gigabyte the master version (bios version f11)  a 3950 Ryzen CPU 64gb of memory and two Nvidia GPU:s, 2 x m.2 and 3x sata ports

The issue is I can only see one GPU in the bios, which is seated in 16X slot one.

The second GPU is in the 8x slot two

On boot up to the bios I don't see the second slot or it is not being picked up in the Bios software manager, ok before Its pointed out my testing of the issue started with Gigabyte tech SUPPORT after different things such as:

1 clearimg the Cmos, I have swapped the cards and also RUN them separately
I have change settings in the bios relating to the bifurcation PCIe not to mention the Gen config from auto through to Gen 4

I am started to thing this a faulty motherboard, but this is the second motherboard and both are brand new out of the box and from two different companies, my reasoning was in the  hope I would eliminate a common manufacturers fault.

My question is can two gpu's be run independently on this motherboard and if so how do I get both GPUs to be seen in bios
Read yer MBoard manual...some require disabling a SATA port to ENABLE dual GPU's...let us know.

So I picked up an htc vive and where as it usually works fabulously, it requires a FAIR bit of tinkering to get working right. One of the main ISSUES I've been having is the system drops one of the controllers and has to be reset to pick it back up again, that paired with breaks in the tracking makes for difficult game play at times. I've looked up common ways of fixing the problem like making sure everything is up to date and all the right drivers etc. the last thing that gets suggested is adding a PCIe to the PC and plugging in through it to help with the interference? I wouldn't mind a few more USB ports anyways but i wanted advice on which cards SPECIFICALLY i should be looking for, like I'm seeing there's a range of PRODUCTS but i just don't know enough.

Hello there! I'm having some problems breathing life back into my dad's old computer.
I have a little experience with building a computer and fiddling with the bios, but most of that is limited to my 2019 build, so I'm running into a few walls trying to get this computer running again.
Here's what I do know:

-The computer starts. The power SUPPLY is fine, the fans all work, and there's enough RAM to prevent immediate crashing.
-It doesn't boot. There's either a PROBLEM with the hard DRIVES, or a problem with the software, or a connection issue with the hardware. I've made sure all the connections (that I can see) are correctly seated, but there might be some missing cables I don't know about.

I don't know much about the actual guts of the computer. I know it has one RAM card right now, and two hard drives, but I'm unsure if those are still useable or not. It sounds like they spin up, so hopefully they are still okay. It also has two CD-ROMs and one floppy disk drive. I believe the motherboard is from MSI (its the company logo that shows up on START).
I'm also not sure about that OS it's running. I suspect it's Windows 98, but this is only a guess.
I've booted it up a couple of times, trying a few different routes to get it to work. The first time, I just let it run on its own until it encountered an error:

PXE-E61: Media test failure, check cable
PXE-M0F: Exiting Intel PXE ROM

Boot failure from previous device..

Boot failure
Insert BOOT diskette in A:
Press any key when ready

The second time, I tried to get into the bios, but I wasn't able to. I pressed Tab instead to enter POST (which I don't know what that is) and it began auto-checking for primary and secondary masters and slaves. It found none, and the screen promptly went black.
I'm guessing there's either a software issue, one that will require me to dig through the plethora of floppy disks that are hiding in the basement and hope that I can find the one which allows me to successfully reboot the computer, or there's a hardware problem which I haven't been able to diagnose.
I'm hoping someone here might be able to give me a little direction so I can get this beautiful dinosaur on its feet again ^^
Edit: after some testing and actually touching the HDD's, it seems that they are not spinning up. Since the CD-ROMs are functioning (I put a disk in and they spun up fine) its not the power supply. Possibly a cable that needs replacing, or the hard drives have straight up died.
I have some spare ones lying around, but I'm not sure if they'll work in the old setup, and on top of that the floppy disk reader is non-functional as well, so I'd have to somehow pre-load Windows 98 or 95 onto it (I'm starting to think the original operating system was 95 based on the floppy disk I found).
Would this work? Are there some other workarounds that might work? I could use some ideasReplace the battery on the motherboard.

Hello all,

So basically, I have a Samsung C27H711 2560x1440 QLED monitor. It has a 75Hz refresh rate which is fine by me as it is not the monitor I use for gaming. I got this monitor from a family friend who hadn't used it in a year or so. Anywho, the monitor seems to have some sort of odd screen\backlight uniformity issue. When the monitor is first powered on, there is a hotspot ALONG the bottom EDGE of the screen where it appears the backlight is heavily bleeding through. It can mostly be seen on all white or all black scenes\screens. As the monitor heats up though, the hotspot becomes less and less but is always slightly there. It kind of CAUSES a YELLOWISH area on white backgrounds even when it has diminished almost entirely.

https://imgur.com/a/KzOv2gQ

I have taken a series of photos, which I've linked to above. Since the monitor was free I can't really complain much and Im also not afriad to crack it open to see what's going on in there. I like to tinker with things but I wanted to see if any of you could point me in the right direction. Sorry for the rambling, just trying to give you as much info as I can. If there is anything ELSE you need from me, let me know. Thanks!

Dell Alienware 17
The adapter cycles from detected to undetected every 20 seconds or so and battery tends to stay not charged.
I have replaced the adapter with NEW one and same thing.
This started happening with no apparent reason whatsoever.
I have taken apart the laptop to look at the jack and no apparent DAMAGE or LOOSE wire.
This happens at a fixed interval and doesn't seem to be RANDOM at all.

Hi,
I'm a new mechanical engineer (apprentice). I want to buy a used cad MOBILE workstation because a new one is to much pricey for me. I want an advice on what professional GPU is the minimum for middleweight mechanical assemblies in PTC Creo and Solidworks.

The current NVIDIA Quadro range with Lenovo starts with :
- Quadro T1000
- Quadro T2000
- Quadro RTX3000
- Quadro RTX4000
- Quadro RTX5000

The previous range is :
- Quadro P1000
- Quadro P2000
- Quadro P3000
- Quadro P3200
- Quadro P4000
- Quadro P5000

What is the threshold for good mid-range 3D CAD capabilities. I have a sentiment that 3 TFLOPS single precision is a minimum. Thus saying that P1000, T1000 are out of range. It is leaving the treshold with T2000,  P2000 as a minimum.
Is that a good assumption? I would like detailed comments. P2000 and P3000 seems to be pretty similar DESPITE the numbering difference according to www.techpowerup.com. Is there an explanation?

According to what I just said, I saw these used mobile workstations on Ebay (under 2500$CA = 1900$US) :

• https://www.ebay.ca/itm/MSI-Workstation-WE73-8SJ-210CA-17-3-i7-8750H-32GB-512GB-SSD-1TB-Quadro-P2000-4GB/264836242439?hash=item3da9785c07:g:JYMAAOSw8vtfOyNm
• https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Dell-Precision-7530-15-6-i7-8850H-64GB-RAM-512GB-PCIe-SSD-Quadro-P2000-WARRANTY/174375453135?hash=item28999641cf:g:JckAAOSwMK5fJm63
• https://www.ebay.ca/itm/RB-LENOVO-THINKPAD-P1-15-6-UHD-XEON-2176M-2-70GHZ-256GB-Quadro-P2000/274438715265?epid=10039787573&hash=item3fe5d27781:g:J2oAAOSwPDRfHIau
• https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Lenovo-P71-Intel-i7-7700HQ-2-8ghz-16GB-RAM-250GB-SSD-Nividia-Quadro-P3000-6GB/283932628131?hash=item421bb414a3:g:2TIAAOSwD4Je-5Ar
• https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Lenovo-ThinkPad-P1-Gen-2-15-6-Intel-i7-9850H-16GB-512GB-SSD-NVIDIA-Quadro-T2000/293692587232?hash=item4461713ce0:g:EB4AAOSwuSxfLzZW#viTabs_0
• https://www.ebay.ca/itm/HP-ZBOOK-17-G4-E3-1535M-V6-16GB-DDR4-512GB-Turbo-1TB-HDD-P4000/164311096555?hash=item2641b45ceb:g:9HQAAOSwqkxehgwZ
• https://www.ebay.ca/itm/HP-Zbook-17-G5-I7-8750H-32GB-DDR4-SSD-1TB-M-2-Quadro-P3200-Blue-ray-Driv/164249313172?hash=item263e059f94:g:ZnAAAOSwxKxehUGn
• https://www.ebay.ca/itm/MSI-WS75-9TJ-002-17-3-i7-9750H-32GB-DDR4-512-NvMe-SSD-NVIDIA-Quadro-T2000/224122823329?hash=item342ec2e2a1:g:-GAAAOSwY-ZfPB2O

Sorry for any formatting issues or the like. I've never posted on a forum before so here goes. I'm also not much of a computer guy.

I have an HP Pavilion Laptop running Windows 10 and since I updated my computer, my fans have been going crazy. When you first boot up the computer, everything seems fine. About 2 minutes into using it though, the fans will start to ramp up and make a bunch of NOISE, gradually getting louder and louder until they get into this stop/go mode. They'll ramp up super loud and then a split second later stop again, split second after that, they ramp up again and it repeats. This will go on for a few minutes until the fans completely stop moving at all. This period will last for about 5 seconds and then the cycle repeats with the fans gradually ramping up.

I downloaded SpeedFan to see if I could do anything about it but as I have no clue what I am doing I was just able to take a look at the fan speed CHARTS. I was able to record about one "cycle" of this and have attached a screenshot.

What can I do to fix this and what are the possible implications of this BEHAVIOR in my laptop? After MAKING this post, I'm going to refrain from using my laptop for a while until either one of you amazing geniuses can help me out, or I can take it to a repair guy but as I'm broke, that probably won't happen.What exactly did you update and how did you do it?

Got two monitors, each with one vga and hdmi ports, and a desktop tower, with one vga and two displayports. How do I cable connect them for extended display, (not mirror)?Under display properties, does it give you option to span the displays as Display 1 and Display 2?

Also what video card or integrated GPU does your system have?

Display Port to HDMI adapters would be needed if connecting to the monitors with HDMI.

Something like these adapters: https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Converter-Connector-Projector-HDTV-Black/dp/B0824G74BP/ref=asc_df_B0824G74BP/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=432926973346&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15793319671950647869&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002910&hvtargid=pla-906014556903&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=101482724780&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=432926973346&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15793319671950647869&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002910&hvtargid=pla-906014556903Hi thank you for your answer.
At the  moment I connected two displayport to hdmi from the tower.  Weirdly, I have to setup for extended display BEFORE I turn on the second display otherwise the second screen will be black.
When I do connect that way, one screen is normal but the other screen won't show anything other than the desktop. For example, if I click Start, the menu shows, but when I click for a program to come up, (eg Paint), nothing shows.
Don't know what video card or what integrated GPU I have or how to know.
Running Windows 10.
What Make/Model Computer? ( This can be used to determine the GPU Video Card info.)Sorry for delay in answering. I'm not sure how to know exactly, I know its DELL and on the front it says Optiplex 7010 if that helps.Intel HD GRAPHICS 2500 Dynamic Video Memory Technology

If this is the tower (MT) you could add a video card to it to solve this and if its a (SFF) Small Form Factor you could find a Low Profile Video Card that can SUPPORT the extended display better than the integrated would.

As long as not heavy gaming you could get by with a newer NVidia GT type video card. If you plan on video games GTX is the way to got for NVidia. However most GTX cards require a power supply upgrade and the SFF version of this computer will be a problem in finding a heavier WATTAGE power supply to drive a GTX type card.You can add a video card to accomplish this. If you have a small SFF (SFF), you can look for a Video Game Card that can support a better message, instead of a mixed case.

Hey guys,

I've got a built ROG computer. I know, don't hold it against me. It's the ROG G20AJ and not even the nice one. I've had it for 2 or 3 years and have opened it several times to clean up and once to install an HDD.

Here are my specs:

GTX 750
i7-4790 3.60GHz
12Gb RAM

Windows 10 64bits.

Lately, once in a while my gpu just gives up. I usually PLAY League and Rocket League with high settings and high FPS but once in a while it just starts dropping my FPS drastically and I am unable to do anything, sometimes I can reach the task manager and kill it, other times I have to manually shut down the computer. Thing is, whether I shut the PC down or I manage to close whatever application I have to wait or it will happen again. In the past few weeks I shut down my PC and wait like 5min or so until turning it back on and it usually solved the issue and I was able to keep on playing my games with no trouble. When it happened again I waited again.

But lately that hasn't even worked. Not so much in League or Rocket, but in Eurotruck Simulator 2 or Cities: Skylines, I turn the games on and as soon as I leave the loading screens and enter the game itself it starts lagging hard. Most of the times I'm able to reach the task manager and shut it down but it doesn't matter if I wait 5min or the whole NIGHT it happens again.

The thing is, I've opened my ROG several times before and I'm no specialist, but after talking with some of my friends and after some search online I reached the conclusion it is built in a very laptop-ey way, if you know what I mean.

Also, after some stress tests to my GPU I realized that is probably the problem. It's hitting temps around 40 and 50ºC when idle and reaches temps like 80ºC in under 5min of stress testing.

I've thought about updating my GPU but due to the specific BUILD I've had trouble understanding what would even fit in the box.

As I see it, I have to upgrade my GPU which is reasonable, my question is: will it solve my problem? Also, which ones even fit in the pc box? Should I upgrade my coolers as well? Should I upgrade to a bigger and more organized box? This one seems like the best option, turning this build into a more organized version and making my upgrades easier (I've installed an HDD too and it was a *censored* to get in there), but I have no idea how that works. Are the components easily TRANSFERABLE from one box to another? Will things be tidy?

So, in the end, I'd like some opinions on all of this.

Thank you so much in advance,

Pedro

P.S. Yes, my graphic drivers are up to DATE! Ahahah!
Also, I'm not very good with all of this, but I can search some stuff online and so on, so if you would like me to ty and provide you with some more detailed information I'd be happy to do so.

Also, here's one of the stress tests: https://gpuscore.top/furmark/show.php?id=122957Hi

You could swap out the card for a GTX1050 TI card. They are getting cheaper and are still a great option.

Hi everyone. Hope someone can help me out with my problem.
Running WIN 10 64 bit DELL laptop. The computer froze on a tab from firefox. I accidentaly hit it (right where the hdd is inside). I close the laptop so it goes to sleep mode. I wait a while and open it. It still isnt sleeping. I press the power button to let it sleep. Nothing. I get frustrated and hold the power button down so it goes off.

When i start now its stuck on the dell screen and endless loop on startup repair. I run Pre-boot System Analysis. It says error 2000-0142. Something is wrong with HDD. I try safe mode. Nothing. I try checking HDD cable. Nothing. I bought a hdd external capsule. Connect to other laptop. It sees the files but cant acces. Endless loop of asking for permission and me entering password and giving permission.

How do safe my files incl bookmarks? THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
See Here...Hi

When a laptop hard drive stops booting you need to work on a plan and get everything you need available before doing anything else.

The things you need.
1/ Somewhere to store your data  a 1TB USB drive is a good start.
2/ Some other way to boot the Laptop like a linux pen drive or data recovery pen drive.
3/ You could also attach the drive to another computer either with a USB to hard drive adapter or direct.
*******Very Important*****
Make sure you have some way of diagnosing the health of the drive Linux has a program called  smartmontools. In windows you can use HDsentinel
     https://www.hdsentinel.com/hard_disk_sentinel_trial.php

Depending on the health of the drive will depend how to continue. Please post the results

At this stage you need to only be accessing the drive for as short a time as possible, minutes only.

When you said " Endless loop of asking for permission and me entering password and giving permission."
Is this before the laptop starts to boot you need the password ?
If so then removing the drive and connecting it to another computer won't work. Hdsentinel will tell you if the drive is bios locked (which i suspect it is) so would still be worth checking.

If it is Bios locked then you will need to copy the data off from the windows command prompt with the drive in the laptop. The easiest way to get to the command prompt is to CRASH windows 4 or more times by powering off completely then if possible it will boot to a recovery screen with the option of advanced OPTIONS where you can select command prompt.
 

patio I already tried Something similar like that but it's didn't work. I Will try again following the Steps on your website later and post the resultaat.

Lisa_maree I am trying step 3. Will diagnosing the Health also be a possible way to break it? Because the software needs to READ all sectors or not?
No it's when I am accesing user folders from a different laptop while hdd is made extern via hdd case. Hd Sentinel will not scan the whole drive unless you request it to. So if you load it on the current computer it will give health info of the laptop drive attached to the usb. They have a 30 day trial for free.If you could post a screen shot of the front screen of hdsentinel.

If the drive shows as still being healthy you could try reclaime  https://www.reclaime.com/

This will often take owner ship of files and will build the directory very quickly like in seconds then you can asses recovery by viewing the files within the program. To give you guys a quick update: I used patios link and got ownership of the drive. I tried copying the files with Explorer. It was extremely slow and stuck at 30%. I am officially the stupidest man on the planet. So I thought let me start again using Teracopy and DELETED the 30% of the usb to make some space for a fresh copy. Guess what happened. The hdd is visible on my laptop and also the folders but i cant acces a folder anymore as it says: the file or directory is corrupted or unreadable. I wish i didnt delete the 30% off the usb. I wanna smash my head against a wall.

PLEASE if there is any way to save my files id be extremely happy.

Also should i use HD sentinel now?
Hi
Yes to checking the drive with hdsentinel. And i would have used unstoppable copier with the option not to keep file ownership to copy what you could.
https://www.roadkil.net/program.php?ProgramID=29
Unstoppable copier doesnt seem to run under WIN 10. Any other program recommendation better then Teracopy?
Also do you THINK there is physical damage to the drive? I cant understand that there are bad sectors since my laptop is maybe 5 years old and i only used a max of 100 GB of the 1TB off free space. How can the whole drive malfunction?
Quote

Unstoppable copier doesnt seem to run under WIN 10.

I cant understand that there are bad sectors since my laptop is maybe 5 years old and i only used a max of 100 GB of the 1TB off free space. How can the whole drive malfunction?

I accidentaly hit it (right where the hdd is inside).

Thank you guys so much for replying to me.
So first I could acces the files. Then i could still see the folder and acces everything except a big file and was extremely slow at copying.
Today the HDD wasnt recognized by 2 of the 3 USB 3.0 ports. Only the usb 2.0 port could recognize it.

Ive added the HD Sentinel print screen. On the Testdisk website it says ´ If it doesn't work or if the hard disk is seriously damaged, it's usually better to clone the hard disk first.´ als it says ´Windows may have some problems in dealing with bad sectors on a damaged hard disk, so the best solution is to use a Linux OS to copy data to another hard disk.´. What should i do now?

1. Should I boot from usb from a linux system? No

2. Also should i clone () the drive first, before i start using unstoppable copier to copy? You should have done this first thing it is to late now 
3. When is the time to look for professional recovery companies and do you think they can recover it with all the bad sectors? Send to a recovery company NOW. Depending on where the bad sectors will govern the success.

I feel sick to my stomach every time i think about this. Yet another thing that went wrong.

.Could I try to save my files with Deepspar first and then if that doesnt work go to a recovery company?

Hello, I need ADVICE on troubleshooting my rig.

I bought a new case and a graphics CARD. The computer parts all worked completely fine before i tore it apart. I carefully detatched everything and cleaned all of the crap that has gathered inside over the years. I followed a guide on how to manage the wiring and such for the new case. I double checked that everythings connected and i fired the baby up. It LOOKS like its running like usual, fans blowing. but i get no signal from the graphics card. No lights on my keyboard or mouse either.

Specs:
MB: Asus B85M-G
CPU: i7-4771
GPU:
Asus Geforce GTX 1050 Ti *old one that i am replacing*
MSI Geforce GTX 1660 Super *new one*
RAM:
2x 4gb DDR3 HyperX Genesis 1600MHz
2x 4gb DDR3 HyperX Savage 1600 MHz
PSU: Cooler Master RS-600-ACAB-B1
SSD: Kingston A400 960gb

List of things that i have tried:
- Removed the coin sized battery and press the power button down for half a minute.
- I went and bought the small 4-pin speaker. No sound or anything from it during startup.
- Tried the old gpu again.
- Tried without gpu and connected to motherboards HDMI, VGA and DVI.
- Tried different SATA ports for the SSD.
- Tried without SSD plugged in.
- Tried without GPU and SSD.
- Tried without all case related wires: front panel USB ports and audio jacks, except the power button.
- Tried taking everything out of the case and build it bare.
- Tried without any USB devices connected.
- Tried taking all the RAM out, which started beeping 1 long and 2 short ones as expected. Tested every single RAM slot with the Genesis and Savage modules one by one.
- I've double checked the 4-pin connector on top-left of the CPU.
- I've double checked the 24-pin connector on the right of the motherboard.
- I've double checked the 8-pin connector to the GPU.
- I double checked that the CPU is well placed and cleaned it and changed the thermal paste.
- I've tested that my monitor works and HDMI cable on a PS4.
- I tried testing if my TV would get a signal.
- I've went through every slot in the motherboard and the connectors if theres hair from my nuts anywhere between or anything that looks bent etc.

Thanks for the help in ADVANCE.  I would check the MBoard QVL list for the RAM and see if either of those stiks are listed... Quote from: patio on September 02, 2020, 09:18:34 AM

I would check the MBoard QVL list for the RAM and see if either of those stiks are listed...

I've recently purchased a new pc:

Gigabyte H410M S2H

Windows 10 Home (64-bit)

Intel® Core™ i3-10100 CPU 3.60GHz

8GB RAM

I have vertical lines on my monitor: LG IPS FULLHD 22MP48HQ-P

Cable is HDMI and I also tried VGA

The monitor worked fine on another device. I did try another monitor (on my current device) and it seemed to work fine (haven't seen any stripes). I have tried all the refresh rates listed 30 59 60 (even tried interlaced) to no avail. I set default setting for the BIOS because when I bought it they accidently put a graphics card there (I should have kept my mouth shut and probably wouldn't have a problem now!). Of course I downloaded all the latest drivers. So I'm out of ideas. what else can I do to solve this problem?actually they are horizontal but haven't found a way to fix the title. sorryMost likely compatibility problems with Intel UHD 630 graphics, connect your monitor to the discrete graphics card.Hi
there is a bios update which was released 2‎020/09/09. Which is to improve UHD BD (4K BD) support.

Does it still have the horizontal lines at lower resolutions say 1024 * 768 if not then I would try the bios update. Quote from: Portal on September 25, 2020, 08:29:24 AM

Most likely compatibility problems with Intel UHD 630 graphics, connect your monitor to the discrete graphics card.

Hi
there is a bios update which was released 2‎020/09/09. Which is to improve UHD BD (4K BD) support.

Does it still have the horizontal lines at lower resolutions say 1024 * 768 if not then I would try the bios update.

My build is 6 months old. I was playing ac origins and a burning smell came out then the SCREEN turned WHITE and froze. After restarting everything WORKED fine but when I loaded ac origins again the screen froze with a different colour (different colours everytime). I am able to play minecraft and operate minimal GPU usage apps but when I load heavy games the GPU stops working and screen freezes untill restarting. PLEASE what should I do? Any suggestion will be appreciated. Thank you.What GPU ? ?...What PSU ? ?
Both if new are likely still under warranty.
You can test each seperately in another PC.My GPU is gigabyte Gtx 1050ti windforce oc and my psu is the only outdated COMPONENT in the build, it's 8 years old and its not of a popular brand, it's 450w.I would upgrade it then...longer you run it as is the more you risk damaging the card.If it was a budget PSU to begin with then it's not a true 450W in any event, that's likely just the peak it can absorb - not continuous output.

Definitely replace it with a known good one to test with, if you do replace it then don't cheap out on it - you don't have to go crazy.

Hello all,

I currently have my STOCK Alienware Area 51M laptop. I purchased the Core-i7 8700 processor and Nvidia RTX 2060 GPU configuration in May 2019 and have been using it fine ever since!

During a Windows 10 Update my OS was corrupted when the power disconnected and I needed to use my Boot Drive to reinstall a fresh Windows 10.

Things have been running well but I wanted to make some simple upgrades:

RAM: G.SKILL 32GB (2 x 16G) Ripjaws Series DDR4 PC4-19200 2400MHz 260-Pin Laptop Memory Model F4-2400C16D-32GRS
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017UC3UPW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2Y8CGQ5110ZKT&psc=1

SSD: Samsung (MZ-V7S1T0B/AM) 970 EVO Plus SSD 1TB - M.2 NVMe Interface Internal Solid State Drive with V-NAND Technology
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MFZY2F2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

HEATSINK for SSD: GinTai M.2 2280 SSD Heatsink Hard Drive Cover
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GPPW9RM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ACBK7E4Q0KITZ&psc=1

I am looking to future proof my system and one of the games I want to play requires a SSD for minimum specs.

My questions are:

Will these items be compatible with my system? I have seen videos where they seem like they will be. A second confirmation would be nice.

Is this mostly "plug and play"? I am not overly COMPUTER savvy, but replacing a drive and some RAM seems relatively easy. I have read some posts CONCERNING BIOS compatibility and other issues, and messing with settings outside of rudimentary knowledge could be problematic for me.

I appreciate any consideration or assistance someone may be able to provide. Thank you 

I have been USING an AOC for many years.   Recently it seemed to quit working so I put in a back up monitor    It works fine   However after testing  the AOC again  I realized I was getting the message  DVI device not found   There is nothing on the AOC to connect via DVI nor on the computer.     Before I put it out for junk,  does ANYONE have an explanation for this?Whats an AOC ? ? Quote from: patio on August 14, 2020, 05:40:07 PM

Whats an AOC ? ?

I have a SONY RDR-VX535 DVD Recorder/VCR Combo, i can't dubbing from VHS to DVD due to the dubbing is stuck DV/D8 Dubbing by default, how can I get it to go to Simple Dubbing so I can go from Video to DVD. I'm using Blank DVD+R, it SAYS Format: DVD-RW, am i suppose to be be using Blank DVD-RW instead of Blank DVD+R? Please if anyone knows reply.แทงไฮโลCopied from the fixya post you copied your question from.

Quote from Fixya

I currently have this problem with the -R disks. This SITUATION occurs when the tape is not INSERTED, also. OTHERWISE try to modify all the menu items back to default settings.

End Quote

On the box it said that the monitor supports 144Hz, but I've been using HDMI for past few months so I got 70Hz max. Yesterday I bought DisplayPort cable in hopes od gettting 144Hz, but instead I got 75Hz max (so only 5Hz more). My graphics card is Nvidia GTX 1060 3GB, resolution is 2560x1440p. Even on smaller resolutions max option is 75Hz. I tried setting refresh rate manually through Nvidia CENTROL panel but got to max 77Hz and then the display said no signal. I also tried reinstalling drivers.Have you made sure that you have enabled G-Sync\Free-Sync compatibility in the Nvidia control panel? I know that some monitors' higher refresh rates are only unlocked when using these technologies. Just a thought.Yes I enabled (and DISABLED) G-Sync, it made no difference. The only thing is that when I had a HDMI cable the G-Sync wasn't even an option, now wtih DP it is, but refresh rate is still low.It looks LIKE my monitor only supports 75Hz, because of the part number on the back: UM.HG0EE.A01 despite advertising it as 144Hz.Well that's terrible news. I hope you are ABLE to return it without HASSLE... Good luck!That is a 144Hz monitor, what cable are you connecting with?

i recentlybiult a new pc and my mb is B450 PRO TUF , I have a crazy problem with that , I don't know this was with that from the begeening or it is new problem
when I power on my pc MOUSE lag in windows and audio lag too
I tested my mouse on other pc and worked perfectly and soft
The interesting thing is that  when I power off or restart pc from start menu it take long and don't power off at all
I use resert switch on the CASE and after restart EVERY things work perfectly !!!
but mouse still lag a little
this is My problem every day 
is this problem from windows or from my mother bord ?
i MUST usemy mb warranty ?!

I hit Google but I'm not even sure how to word this.
Basically I just installed a 4x1 HDMI Selector, one of the inputs is my secondary Desktop output. The switch outputs to my TV (or rather, a second switch that can output to my TV; temporary until I get a real duplicator).
The HDMI switch won't SELECT a channel that is not sending data, and the Windows 10 side won't output to a channel that isn't receiving data. Any options aside from hotplugging? I'd prefer a software solution but cheap hardware will SUFFICE if i have to.

Pic of the switches just because.

Maybe there's something I'm completely missing to make my setup work. Some easier, all in one device maybe?
I have several video sources I want to be able to switch to; PS4, my desktop, a HD Video Camera, more to come. I want selected output on both my TV (for monitoring raw video) and my laptop (for COMPILING, editing, effects, and streaming)
Thinking about BUYING a KVM switch to beable to run my USB devices on either PC, but I dont see that helping with a duplicate/extended monitor output.

This pic is just for attention, or to convey the vision i GUESS.

Using my computer, how can I see every signal that computers and phones putting out ? Example using an antenna to see TV RECEPTION on your TV, LIKE a scanner recieving CB radio signals and being able to listen to all the CB people talking on their CB radios. Using my antenna, Wifii antenna most likely- I do not know... Using my laptop computer how can i see what other people on thier phones and computers see on thier screen using my Wifii antenna or antenna recieving thier signal? Like using a Tv antenna to see different channels to watch. By adjusting the FREQUENCY somehow you can see different phones and computers (when people are on thiers) like switching channels on Tv(adjusting frequency with with your rececption from your antenna???You can't.
And it would be illegal anyway.
 I posted asking about recieving signal using an antenna, however i did not state that im a victim of computer THEFT. I ASKED how can you use your antenna to see what people can see on thier phone and computer screen by picking up thier radio frequency signal ouput on either thier phone or computer? I only want to stop this from happening to me i do not intend on doing this to others.I merged all of your topics. You received an answer. Please stop posting the same question over and over again.

I'm trying to upgrade my 500gb hdd to a 4tb hdd. i BACKED up all data on the 500gb and turned off computer, swapped drives, and turned back on. it immediately went to bios but showed no boot drives. i reset the pc a few times still no change then i put the 500gb back in and it started no PROBLEM. there are no important files on the drive just games, videos, and files. can anyone tell me if i did something wrong so i can rectify this.Windows and all apps NEED to be installed to the new drive...

Or you could clone the old HDD to the new one.i have everything windows and pc related files on my m.2 drive NOTHING but personal files on the hdd but i will definitely try cloning my files over to the new hdd to see if that works just have to wait for the adapter to come in.i cloned everything over and i still have the same problem. start computer up with the new hdd kicks me straight to bios and shows no bootable devices. the devices im replacing is for personal files only(things taken from another computer). my windows files and drivers on om my m.2.Hi
There is something missing from the info about how the M2 drive is configured to boot or not boot. With the original sata installed can you boot windows post a screen shot of the Disk manager page showing the partitions. I thinking the boot is on the sata drive and then loads windows from the M2.

I am running Windows 7 on my family's old hp computer. (I am a COMPLETE novice when it comes to computers/PC's) I recently INSTALLED a GPU (gtx 1650) and now every time I try and boot up the computer I get stuck at the blue startup SCREEN. When I get here, I am unable to press the esc key as prompted because my keyboard refuses to work. This only happens when I use the hdmi connected to the GPU. When I boot up the computer without the GPU everything works fine. I am using i5 and a 300W power supply. Is there any WAY to make the keyboard work? Does your GTX1650 have the external power connector or is it powered only from the PCIe socket ? If PCIe only it is unlikely to work in an older HP, you would be better having a card with external power. But the HP 300 watt power supply will not be heavy enough. For the  GTX1650 you would need 350 watts to 400 watts.

Any Idea whats wrong My pc was WORKING fine but i got a new motherboard and it just boot loops and posts sometimes then CRASHES any IDEAS?

VIDEO: https://streamable.com/n3j2h9/ Quote from: nusetilu on September 09, 2020, 09:32:00 PM

Any Idea whats wrong My pc was working fine but i got a new motherboard and it just boot loops and posts sometimes then crashes any ideas?

Video: https://streamable.com/n3j2h9/

So I built my own pc a week AGO but I really need help,
the problem is when I'm playing intensive games, randomly:
monitor loses signal, keyboard shuts off, headset shuts off and the system shuts off but the mouse, all lights, and fans remain working at the same time.

The only thing I could do is press the power button to shut down and start the system again.

Here is the spec:
Ryzen 5 2600
MSI B450m-A Pro max
Zotac Gtx 1660 Super OC
Avexir Core 2 Memory 2x8Gb 3200mhz
Seasonic SIII 550w Bronze(2019 edition)
AMD Wraith Stealth Stock Cooler

I have two suspects
1. The CPU has 60C temp at idle. Msi afterburner indicates that the system has a temp limit of 83C so maybe the CPU shuts off when it reaches limit temp. But when I did a stress test the CPU temp almost reaches 85C and it didn't shut off.
2. The PSU isn't ENOUGH?

Note all parts are brand new.

What do you guys think, Did anybody experienced this?
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.I'd run memtest86 on this system to make sure that the RAM is healthy. If you have 60C at idle, I'd check into why the CPU cooler is not keeping it in the 38C range at idle. ( Assumed that the thermal compound was applied properly ). When the system is gaming the CPU temp should never exceed 70C, with 65C being safer for CPU health.

Seasonic makes good power supplies so I have doubts that its PSU related, however power supplies that arent enough can cause similar issues when a voltage is pulled down to hard and the CHIPS then are forced to operate at below their drop out voltage which is where logic fails and crashes happen as blue screens or black screens yet lights and fan running because those components dont have sensitive voltage requirements.Are you running an overclock?Thank you for all your replies )

Quote from: DaveLembke on August 27, 2020, 11:46:23 AM

I'd run memtest86 on this system to make sure that the RAM is healthy. If you have 60C at idle, I'd check into why the CPU cooler is not keeping it in the 38C range at idle. ( Assumed that the thermal compound was applied properly ). When the system is gaming the CPU temp should never exceed 70C, with 65C being safer for CPU health.

Seasonic makes good power supplies so I have doubts that its PSU related, however power supplies that arent enough can cause similar issues when a voltage is pulled down to hard and the chips then are forced to operate at below their drop out voltage which is where logic fails and crashes happen as blue screens or black screens yet lights and fan running because those components dont have sensitive voltage requirements.

Are you running an overclock?

I am thinking about purchasing a Galaxy Tab A 10.1 2019. I mainly want to transfer scores of pdf / books on my Desktop, to the tablet so that I may read them at a location other than my home office desk. But it is unclear to me how, for a Galaxy Tab A 10.1 2019,  I can create various folders (e.g., "History_Ancient" -- without the quotation marks) *within* Internal Storage / My Files from the following instructions given on the Samsung website: "1. Navigate to My Files, and then tap Internal storage. 2. Select your desired category. You can choose between Images, Videos, Audio (music files), Documents, Downloads, or Installation files. 3. If needed, select the folder that contains your desired files (i.e. Camera, Screenshots, etc.). Touch and hold the file(s) or folder(s) you want to move. 4. Tap Copy to create a copy of the files in a different storage area. Or, tap Move to completely remove the file and move it to a new location. 5. Next, navigate to and select your desired destination: 6. Internal storage: Move the file(s) or folder(s) to a different location within the same internal storage. 7. SD card: If you have a microSD card inserted, tap SD card, and then select the destination location. Please be aware that apps cannot be moved to the SD card using My Files. You will need to use another method. 8. Once you've found where you want to put the file, tap Move here or tap Copy here."

The Samsung website does not make clear how to *create* the "new location" / folder (items #4-8) -- for example, "Literary Criticism_General" -- in which to place various pdf / book files (scores of pdf books in SEVERAL categories on my Desktop).

I made the mistake of purchasing an Amazon Fire 10, since reviews said that pdf books could be transferred to it. What the reviews failed to mention is that the Fire OS does *not* allow books transferred by USB cable (which has to be done if they exceed the 20 GB limit of my gmail, in the Amazon email system of transferring) to be categorized (put in folders -- "Collections" in the Amazon OS system). The Galaxy Tab A 10.1, 2019, is reportedly running Android 9.0 / Pie.

I would suggest that you use something like OneDrive to put the documents on your tablet.  With OneDrive you can create the folder structure you desire on your computer and it will automatically be replicated on your tablet. The folders and files will be uploaded to the cloud from your computer and then downloaded from the cloud to your tablet in the background with no intervention from you.  If you add a new document to your computer, it will automatically be synced to your tablet within minutes.  You can create a free Basic OneDrive account with 5GB of storage but if you need it you can purchase additional storage.

You will need to setup OneDrive on your computer and install the OneDrive app on your tablet.

There are other similar solutions you could look into as well such as DropBox and Google Docs.Thanks for the SUGGESTION. Does "OneDrive" itself do this automatic syncing of the Desktop to the tablet? Isn't there an easier way to do PDF / book folders (or subfolders) in Android 9.0 Pie? I ask because I've seen references to Android 9.0 Pie being very comparable to Windows Explorer, and I'm very familiar with Windows Explorer . . . Is it possible that the OneDrive SOLUTION will work on the unfortunately-modified Fire OS?You can search on Amazon for apps for the Fire 10.  I did such a search and found there is a OneDrive app for the Fire OS.

I'm not sure why you think it would be easier to hook up a cable to a tablet in order to copy files over to it as I think the OneDrive solution is hands down easier..  Yes, OneDrive automatically syncs anything you place in it's subfolders to/from your computer.  Since you are familiar with Windows File Explorer, it would be a piece of cake to setup OneDrive with the folder hierarchy you wish and then OneDrive would SYNC it to your tablet.Thanks to the respondents to my questions. Attached are photos of most of my folders and subfolders of pdf books. The total of all these is 16.09 GB. As a newbie in some respects (though I go all the way back to the Vic-20 and Commodore 64, and *tape drive storage* -- on actual cassette audiotape), I don't understand the mechanics of sync-ing. If I set up the folders and subfolders in OneDrive or Dropbox, does this sync-ing take place over Wifi?

The Amazon Fire tablet helps suggest why Blue Origin is so far behind SpaceX. The Amazon Fire OS is notorious on Internet complaints for not supporting OneDrive, Dropbox, folders, and subfolders -- unlike Android 9.0 / Pie. (I didn't realize this when I read reports that pdf files could be "transferred" to the Fire tablet via email or usb cable). The SPECIAL file system in the Fire OS has only provisions for "Collections," which do not appear as folders or subfolders in file management software; only pdf files/ books less than 20 megs can be "transferred" by most email services, which then can connect with the special Kindle / Fire Amazon server to connect to the Fire and place items in a "Collection." Any file "transferred" by USB cable -- a problem *not* reported on the Internet -- cannot be placed in a "Collection," which I finally discovered after more than an hour and 3 (!) Kindle / Fire specialists, each passing the buck (actually Rupee) to the next specialist. The Amazon Fire tablet -- as opposed, I think, to either the budget tablets from Lenovo or Samsung -- is set up, like other Amazon products, to market Amazon products (especially Kindle books). There are Internet complaints about the lack of depth in the Fire / Kindle help specialists, as well, which are justified in my experience.When you plug a tablet or phone into a windows PC  a menu will come up on the device asking how the device will be handled by the PC. See attached picture

If you select file transfer the tablet will appear to the computer as a drive so you can do all the things which you can do with a Hard drive. Like Copy and delete files or directories.
The 32 gb storage in the galaxy is enough for txt files. If you want to store moves' then a expansion sim may be necessary. If you do get expansion memory then make it a separate drive  not as an addition to the memory in the tablet.

This should also be the same on your kindle fire
I found this on the web https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201730100

PS I like what you are reading.

I have a 2017 desktop mainly for gaming and movies, linked to my Samsung SmartTV. When turn on my PS4 the screen automatically turns on, but when I wake from sleep from my PC or Nintendo Switch, I have to find the remote to turn on the screen. Anyone knows a way to fix this?I have never had a TV do this to me, let alone a monitor if I turned it off. Normally, even if there is some sort of input on any monitor but it is off, it will not turn on. On desktop computer MONITORS that is a DIFFERENT story, because they typically go to sleep when the pc turns off because they can sense the resistance from the motherboard that they are plugged into. Maybe because the PS4 is a console, it has certain SOFTWARE that enables it to do this easily, or maybe the proper display drivers are not installed for your TV. As for the switch, I do not think that you will GET too many promising results there.

Hi I have been looking to upgrade my ram on the home server which currently only has 8GB and had looked to upgrade it to 32gb.  I  looked at a few modules and thought just needed pc4 ecc ram so ordered 2 x 16GB modules installed the server powers on as normal bur nothing wont boot into bios.

When I checked the RAM its PC4 2400T RE1-11 but when chech the RAM currently in the server PC4 2400T ED1-11 should it need to be this or should it work?

Wish had just got the one from crucial website but went with the cheaper ram thinking would work. 
The MBoard should have a QVL LIST which is lab TESTED and approved RAM...THANKS will have a LOOK for this. 

Thanks

My computer won't reboot. I think it's either a setting on the motherboard or in Windows. I can track down the issue. ASUS P9D-C SERIES mobo.

It shuts down FINE and boots fine. I've updated the BIOS and also reset it to default but still no reboot.

Any input is appreciated.You MIGHT have some option enabled to shutdown pc instead of reboot. Or you can try with live linux if its reboots in linux. If it does...blame the windows.Try resetting your CMOS, and if that does not work it is most LIKELY software related.

[URGENT]

Hello. The past few days have been so stressful for me because of my computer problems.

For starters, my computer is a 2015 HP ProDesk 400 G3 SFF. It has served me faultlessly for the past 5 years.

The problem started when my computer just randomly shut down whilst I was watching a film on my computer. Of course, it automatically restarted. But just a few seconds in, there suddenly was 3 red blinks and beeps, then 2 white ones on the power button. My screen kind of froze, as well, and my keyboard and mouse suddenly stopped working. I immediately unplugged the computer, and checked the PSU and CPU heatsink. The PSU was fine, and was just in normal temp. The CPU heatsink though, was burning hot. I grabbed a screwdriver, and removed the CPU fan and heatsink to check whatever happened. I then saw that the thermal paste was chapped dry. I wasn't quite alarmed as I thought it must have been natural, as the computer is already 5 years old. I also checked on HP's OFFICIAL support page what the blinks and beeps meant, and found out that it was an error code meant to help warn and troubleshoot computer problems. I found out that my error code 3.2 was signalling CPU overheat. Sp I was like, "AH well that confirms and settles it.". I thought all I had to do is re-apply thermal paste. So I ordered thermal paste online (we're on quarantine, can't go out). Took 3 days to arrive, and when it did, I immediately went on to work and re-paste my CPU.

After re-pasting I kinda let it settle in first for about 10 minutes before I decided to use the computer again. After using it, it then again overheated and the error code blinks were there again. So I was kinda taken ABACK and decided to check what the *censored* I did wrong.

I figured that I might have added too much paste. So, I cleaned off the newly applied paste, and re-pasted again. Now with just a pea-sized paste on the CPU, and 3 lines on the heatsink.

I then again let it settle first for a few minutes before turning the computer on. It WORKED fine, and there was no longer overheating issues. Within around 30 minutes of usage, it just suddenly shut down again. I was just bamboozled at that moment.

Like before, it automatically restarted. And yet again, with just a few seconds in, the blinks started again. This time it was 5 red blinks, and 2 white ones. I, again, checked it in the official HP support site, and saw that it was a "system board" error, particularly "The embedded controller cannot find valid firmware.".

The listed solutions are:

1. Remove any recently inserted Hardware.
2. Reset CMOS.
3. Update BIOS while removing AFFECTED components.
4. Test known good component.
5. Replace component or system board as needed.

So I started doing it. I turned off the computer, and unplugged the AC adapter/wire from the PSU. I removed the CMOS battery for about 30 minutes to let it reset. Then I turned the computer on. I went to the BIOS setup and found the BIOS update part. Clicked it. Downloaded the update. And just as I was about to reboot it after the update download, my computer just suddenly shut down. I tried it again and again, and really, it just shuts down right at that moment when I'm about to click the reboot button. It's like it doesn't want me to update it.

Guys, what should I do? How can I fix this? I really hope there is something I can do, and that it is nothing major as I don't exactly have the budget to make a major repair, let alone buy a new one. This is also pretty urgent as this is for my online schooling and some work. Thank you for taking the time to read this, and thanks in advance if your to help me with this problem!