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Hi I just got a brand new computer and I have set it up to the best of my ability's HOWEVER, when I power the computer on the screen does not come on it just stays black there is power going to the computer as the light has come on and all the fans are spinning INSIDE can anyone help me?1) Check the cable connection between the computer and the display. Make sure the connections are secure.
2) Try the display on a different computer to INSURE it is working.
3) Try a different cable between the computer and display.
4) Open the computer and make sure the display adapter is firmly seated and didn't jar loose during shipping.

And of COURSE, make sure the power switch for the display is "ON".Hi can you take a clear PICTURE of the connections on the back of the computer and post here so we can check everything is in the correct place.

I have 2 ram cards, I decided to take them out to clean everything, but now when I try to put them back in, they won't click in, it is aligned and on the gold teeth SIDE. What ELSE am I missing?There are lock levers at the end of each SLOT...RAM slot has SMALL clips at either side. Press these down to OPEN them. They don't need to move very far, so don't use too much force. Then line up your RAM and press it down into the slot. The clips should click back into place. Small correction: Some RAM slots only have clips on one side..

(that feature is to allow users with extra long graphic cards an easier way to remove and replace their RAM)

---

Also (I'm sure you figured it out already):

(https://www.techradar.com/how-to/how-to-install-ram)
"RAM sticks are keyed, which means they have a gap in the connector that will ensure you can only insert them one way. Line up your RAM so that the gap on the connector corresponds with the RAM slot."

If I were to get 32GB of RAM, is it better to get 4 sticks of 8GB or 2 sticks of 16GB? I'm thinking 2 sticks becasue there's less "MOVING parts" ie. POSSIBILITIES for something to go wrong. Is there any other way to THINK about this?No.I go for fewer sticks but it has nothing to do with the reasons mentioned.

2 sticks of 16GB means you could buy another set of the same two sticks later and upgrade to 64GB. Whereas, If you get 4 sticks of 8GB, You would need to replace memory sticks in order to upgrade further.  And then you have the old memory sticks just sitting around doing nothing.
Yes, like my incompatible RAM recommended for a build by PC Partpicker. ThanksNever rely on their recommendations...sorry you found out the hard way. Quote from: jonnyD on JANUARY 21, 2021, 01:04:21 PM

If I were to get 32GB of RAM, is it better to get 4 sticks of 8GB or 2 sticks of 16GB? I'm thinking 2 sticks becasue there's less "moving parts" ie. possibilities for something to go wrong. Is there any other way to think about this?

I've just put together a pentium 1 pc from parts. However, It doesn't start. The psu FAN spins for a second and then stops. I unplugged the hdd and this time the psu fan kept spinning. I PLUGGED the hdd in again and powered the machine up and the fan spun only for a second again with the hdd plugged in. I've tried reseating the ram and the cpu and sprayed ipa into the sockets. I've also tested the psu with a multimeter and all the voltages were fine except the -12v rail which was -10.26v. Any help would be appreciated.

PS. The sellers stated clearly that the components are functional.Power supply should be within +/-5% for all voltages. That -10.26v is outside the +/-5% for 12V which should be ( 11.4V to 12.6V ). I'd try a different power supply.I don't think that rail voltage is relevant to this problem. The -12V Rail was only used on certain ISA and PCI Expansion cards, I've seen it out of spec a lot, probably because it is so seldom actually utilized.

I'd be more inclined to suspect the HDD might have a short.Hi agree with BC about the hard drive. Also make sure the IDE cable is the correct way round red strip NEXT to the power connector drive end and red strip closet pin 1 on the motherboard end. Also have you checked the CMOS battery with your meter that it is around 3.2 volts if less than 3 volts you will need a replacement. What motherboard is it and what graphics card are you using ? Perhaps if you are using an AGP graphics card try either a ISA or PCI card INSTEAD. Also visual check of the motherboard Capacitors is in order. I've already gotten it figured out. There wasn't enough load on the PSU and the ram sticks were in the wrong slots.

The issue:

• Continuous short BEEPS (short beeps that NEVER STOP repeating)
• The beeps start immediately after PRESSING the computer power button
• The motherboard has onboard power and reset buttons with indicator lights that flash repeatedly after the power supply is switched off

• Nothing unusual on screen during POST or boot
• Boots OK
• Video OK
• Programs load
• Windows system information shows all RAM

• Given that everything APPEARS to be working (except for the beeps), how can I fix the beeping issue?
• Is there a way to just turn the beeps off? (I've seen no option for this in BIOS or in the manual)
• Could the CPU reach critical temps instantly in a cold room?

I recently purchased a msi 3080 rtx card and put it into a completely new pc. The pc worked for roughly a day with games running perfectly fine and the temps of all the hardware such as the cpu and gpu were fine. Then the pc was left idling and on for a couple hours and it shut off and EVERYTHING else turned on again and was running fine except the graphics card. I put the card into ANOTHER computer and it still didn’t work while putting a different card into the new computer worked. Is it possible that somehow the card got damaged to the point of being broken or that it was a faulty card that just luckily ran for a day. Some of the other specs include a Ryzen 5 5800, Asus b550 am4 motherboard and an 850 watt power supplyFaulty card...I would return it for a refund You are not the first who have a card of this series broken in an indistinct way. I advise you to return it immediately under warranty and not to hand it over to the services, and even more so not to climb yourself, do not tear off the seal. The reasons can be different, from incorrect supply of VOLTAGE from the unit, to banal overheating DUE to non-working coolers (they have this frequent problem when buying, which should be the first thing to pay attention to). In general, hand it back. Also, I advise you to look for this problem in https://www.google.com/ , sorry for my bad english Rather than a replacement i would get your money back...and move up to an ASUS or Gigabyte card...EVGA is also top end as well.

Hi, I recently bought a Texas Instruments ti-83 calculator ALONG with the serial black graph link cable. I wanted to install programs on it but my pc doesn't have an rs-232 port so I bought a serial-usb adapter. Plugged the graph link cable to my calculator and the other END to the serial-usb adapter and turned the calculator on. Then I went to install the ti-connect software and the drivers for the adapter. It didn't work. After this I TRIED to install the original graph link software from ti. It didn't even open, and windows said that the software is incompatible with my pc, however the graph link's installer WORKED just fine, but the application itself didn't. I've tried TiLP too. GOT many errors.

Thanks in advance, and sorry for my bad english. It's not my first language.

Hi Guys,
 First of all, I hope I have put this QUESTION in the CORRECT forum.  I am thinking of upgrading my Processor  Intel i3 to i5.   But I do not know whether or not my PRESENT Motherboard will take the upgrade.

This is the MB I am using.  Board: ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. H81M-P PLUS Rev X.0x
Serial Number: 160573292900740
Bus Clock: 100 megahertz
UEFI: American Megatrends Inc. 0501 04/29/2016

My ram is fine and so is my HDs. I am using Nvidia Gforce 1030 Graphics.  Let me know if I have given you enough information.
I would appreciate any advice you can offer.

All the very best.

LuckyjflTo be honest the motherboard you're using is quite old and it has Intel's LGA 1150 chipset. This means the motherboard will support Intel's 4th generation I-series processors.

Currently, Intel sells its 11th generation I-series processor, thus even if you upgrade to an i5 processor, it won't be much of an upgrade.

My suggestion would be to stretch this system till it works and in the meantime save money to completely upgrade your system.

Hope this helps!
Thanks for getting back to me, Nickthomson1103. I really appreciate it. I think I will do like you suggested.  All the best. Stay safe. Quote from: Luckyjfl on January 25, 2021, 02:24:44 PM

Thanks for getting back to me, Nickthomson1103. I really appreciate it. I think I will do like you suggested.  All the best. Stay safe.

Hi. I have a problem connecting my laptop to new wifi router. I have Lenovo IdeaPad S12 and everything worked fine till I bought the router (D-Link AC1200) and tried to connect my laptop to the internet. Wifi network doesn’t show up on my laptop. Firstly I thought that it’s the fault of the router but my smartphone DETECTS it with no problem. The laptop STILL sees neighbors’ networks.
Here are router’s and laptop’s specs
https://primebuy.com/product/d-link-dir-822-us-ac1200-wireless-dual-band-fast-ethernet-router
https://www.cnet.com/products/lenovo-ideapad-s12/specs/
Do you know what’s wrong with it? tiaYour Laptop only supports 802.11b/g wireless standard the new router supports 802.11ac I suggest if you need to use wireless at home ie you can't use an ethernet CABLE then you look for a usb wireless adapter which supports  802.11ac standard.

Like this one Wireless AC1300 MU-MIMO Dual Band Nano USB AdapterI don't have a goolge account, but people with D-link routers have been helped via the link https://sites.google.com/site/easylinuxtipsproject/internet.  I stick ewith Netgear routers and Alfa wifi adapters for Linux, myself.Thank you all!

This is copy/pasted verbatim from my post on the superuser board on StackExchange: https://superuser.com/questions/1620978/computer-stuck-in-pre-bios-boot-loop-double-boot

Update 3: I can't get anything to display on screen since replacing the CMOS battery (first update). I have tried multiple monitors with multiple connection types (HDMI and VGA), but nothing displays on screen. When the mobo is set to dual BIOS, I get the boot loop. When it is set to single BIOS, it powers on without resetting, but NEVER displays. It doesn't seem to matter which setting the BIOS switch is in (default or backup), nor what I have attached (drives, GPU, RAM, fans, etc.)

Update 2: This is my motherboard: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-Z97X-UD5H-rev-10/support#support-manual When switching from the default dual BIOS to single BIOS (hardware switch), the double boot stops. However, it does not load a BIOS screen.

Update 1: Still double booting after replacing CMOS battery.


----------


My desktop is stuck in a pre-bios boot loop, by which I mean it powers on, but then turns off and back on before getting to the bios screen. If this is not the correct place to post this issue, I would appreciate advice on where a better place would be.

Most forumns seem to suggest that this is a hardware issue, so I've been attempting some hardware troubleshooting to try to identify if the issue is PSU, Mobo, or other.

 1. I disconnected everything from my motherboard except my CPU and one stick of RAM and it booted fine (by which I mean it got to the BIOS screen...obviously it didn't get further as there was no drive for which to load an OS).
 2. I added each of the other 3 sticks of RAM, one by one, and it continued to boot fine.
 3. I then added the SSD that has my OS...back to the boot loop. So it must be my SSD, right? Well I continued to test hardware and things got confusing.
 4. So I disconnected this SSD and tried a different SSD. Worked fine.
 5. Added a HDD. Worked Fine.
 6. Plugged case USB ports into motherboard and tried to boot from recovery flash drive...boot loop. Undo. Still works fine.
 7. Added another HDD...back to the boot loop. Okay, so what are the chances that 2 of my drives FAILED simultaneously? (Maybe quite high...but I assumed not.)
 8. So I tried just my OS SSD again, and it booted fine. Weird.
 9. Then just the HDD that seemed to cause an issue in step 6. Again booted fine.
 10. Played around with many combinations of these 4 drives, sometimes encountering the boot loop, but typically booting. Tried to see if one of the SATA ports was bad, but many combinations seemed to show this couldn't be it. On multiple boots, the OS was never able to find the step 4 SSD (not the one that seemed to cause an issue). So I removed this entirely and was able to boot CONSISTENTLY.
 11. So I presumably have a bad SSD. But this shouldn't explain the issue, as it happened when this drive was never connected.
 12. Time to put the GPU back in...boot loop.
 13. Take the GPU out and make sure it still works...NOPE, boot loop.
 14. Disconnect everything again to make sure I can boot in the way I was able to in steps 1 and 2...nope, boot loop.

So my guess is that this is somehow an issue with my motherboard. If I can get it booting again from step 1, I'll attempt various combinations of drives and GPU to see if I can pinpoint anything, but it seems to be the case that the issue is independent of which specific things are connected. I would greatly appreciate advice on how to identify/fix the issue.

Hey everyone, wasn't exactly sure what category to put this in but here it is anyways.

I have a TI-83 Plus that I recently got from the school that I attend. I  have put most of my apps on it from my TI-84 Silver Edition through a direct serial transfer between the two and it got done very quick and I could do things very quick. The person who gave it to me was also gracious enough to give me the TI graph link cable, but alas, it is the serial version. I tried to use a USB to serial converter and yes it did work but it is un-godly slow. It took about 15 minutes for a 106 KB app to go through using the converter. This seems very strange and I think the data should be moving a little bit faster than that.

I know I have the correct drivers as they are from the manufacturer's website, I'm just at a loss. From now on I think the BEST bet is to transfer apps onto the TI-84 via the USB port and then transfer from the TI-84 to the TI-83. That seems like the FASTEST way so far. If anyone has any ideas or suggestions, I would be willing to give it a try.It might help if you explain what is a TI-83 Plus device.
Is it this?

Texas Instruments TI-83 Plus Graphing Calculator
by Texas Instruments
https://www.amazon.com/Texas-Instruments-TI-83-Graphing-Calculator/dp/B00001N2QU

As to the question of speed.
USB can move data up to 480 mega bit per second.
Older RS232 serial has, as I recall, a top speed of 115 kilo bits per second.
That is three orders of magnitude slower!
Or,to put it another way, slow is normal.  Yes, geek is is a graphic calculator. I only thought it was quite slow because of the rate of transfer between two calculators . See, if you connect two of them together using the Texas Instruments calculator link cable (Which looks like a 2.5 mm circular jack) it takes about 5 seconds to transfer maybe three apps ACROSS the two. But, when I plug it into the computer using the Texas Instruments Serial Graph Link Cable it is very slow, not even close to speed between two calculators talking to each other.

So, what I am wondering here is if it's an ISSUE with that USB adapter being slower than it should, compatibility issues slowing down data transfer rate (since I am using windows 10 for this), or just the serial protocol just somehow being that slow? I keep thinking that the serial protocol could not be this slow because if I wanted to transfer 106 KB across to a calculator, I don't think it should be taking this long.

Oh well, I guess one day I will invest in one of the Transparent USB Graph Link Cables from Texas Instruments. OK, here is some more information.
Serial connection for a IBM PC is often called "RS 323" interface.
Here is a general reference:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RS-232#V.24
Notice how the subject applies to a personal computer that conforms to the original IBM PC design. The speed can not go above 115200 baud.
If you are a student of electronic technology, the above  web page has history stuff you need to know.

You can get a user guide for the TI (Texas Instrument) calculators.  Inside the guide you will somewhere find details about how the TI serial connection is much faster than the PC connection when using RS232.

If you want a fayer speed, you will need to look into information from TI about what stuff they have for doing high speed data transfer  to a PC. Perhaps TI makes a direct interface to USB, If so, that would be the best choice.
Quote

Connects TI graphing calculators to Windows-based and Mac-based computers. Gives you the ability to add software and programs from the Internet. The connectivity kit is essential for updating the OS and APPS for Flash BASE TI graphing calculators. Allows you to store programs and data on your computer. Great for backing up TI calculator memory. Includes a CD with TI Connect software, TI Graph Link software and guidebooks for TI compatible calculators: TI-73, TI-82, TI-83, TI-83 PLUS, TI-89, and TI-92 PLUS.

Hi, how did you get it working via the serial-usb adapter? I connected mine the same way and it didn't show up in any softwares I tried. Any help would be very much appreciated.

So basically i installed Diablo 3 and then my PC froze and shut off, when it came back on, the computer was incredibly slow and eventually turns off after i turn it on for a BIT. i managed to boot it up in safe mode to DELETE the files and it was able to stay on for a bit then i ended up getting the WHEA bluescreen and it "restarts" my computer but instead shuts it off.

After it happens, if i turn it on, it turns off before i can even type in my password. Can ANYONE please help?
A WHEA Uncorrectable Error is normally hardware failure. You don't say what computer this is. Some manufactures have diagnostics built in to test the hardware which you could run to test particularly the Hard drive.

Keeping on trying to get windows to boot without diagnosing the problem is a bad idea.

Did you use add/remove programs to un install Diablo 3?

I have an acer Aspire Spin 5 that I was replacing a hinge on the screen, but when I put it all back together (yes, everything is plugged in correctly), it wouldn't start. Instead, I get blinking amber battery light. I've tried resetting the battery, and plugged it in, still won't start. Even unplugged, I try to turn it on and I get an LED code of 2 BLINKS, then a pause, then 1 BLINK. I do have a video of it but can't attach it here for VIEWING. Any IDEAS what else it could be? Quote from: nickthomson1103 on January 25, 2021, 10:18:52 AM

It's hard to pin point the exact issue because a single cable break or improper connection could be causing the issue.

Other issues could be moisture or static electricity build up. Better getting checked it up by a laptop technician

I have been getting BSOD's for the past month.

Sometimes they strike every few days, sometimes twice in a day. It is intermittent and whilst the PC is still usable, it can get very annoying.

I have done a Memtest which indicated nothing and I tried a complete reset of Windows 10 and the problem persisted.

The fact that it continued after a Windows 10 reset update indicates that it must be a hardware related issue.

I did notice that the internal WIFI card USED to often go off when the BSOD struck and sometimes did not launch again after the re-start. When this happened, the PC would have a second BSOD shortly after but the issue would be resolved after re-starting before another BSOD struck a few hours later.

I bought a USB wifi adapter and disabled my internal WIFI adapter, thinking that that will solve the issue. It did stop for three days but happened again today.

What is likely to be the issue? Is there anyway that I can determine it?

The PC is a HP BS1XX i3. It has a GENERIC battery in and does have some hardware damage. The SD port and USB port on the left hand side do not work.

The following is a report of the past three BSOD's.

Are the Error messages all the same cause or random ? ?
If random i immediately suspect the generic battery as random errors usuallly point to flakey power.According to what I've seen, the messages are always different Quote from: patio on January 18, 2021, 09:26:59 AM

Are the Error messages all the same cause or random ? ?
If random i immediately suspect the generic battery as random errors usuallly point to flakey power.

Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next reply

Hi i've spilled tea over my keyboard, turned it of waited 2 days and all that.

Some buttons are not WORKING, my Caps lock key produces a infinite random string of letters locking my PC. Same thing happens when I plug in my USB external keayboard.

Does this mean the keyboard on the LAPTOP is fried, or does it needs a good clean?(which I might be able to do myself) Why would the external keyboard Caps lock do the same infinite loop and lock the pc even after I DISABLE the laptop keyboard. Also if replacing would i need the whole inner cover or just the keyboard. Please share your thoughts.

Laptop is a lenovo Y540 15IRH.

Thank you for any replies Your keyboard is not washable like some lenovo keyboards. I would disconnect the internal keyboard , unplug it. Then test the laptop with the USB keyboard if it is working ok . Then get a replacement keyboard for your laptop.
Better replace the keyboardI will disconnect it as you advise, I've also used the on board keyboard but again caps lock makes the pc go crazy, lucky its only the caps lock key the rest of the keyboard and pc SEEMS to be working fine, I might just have to learn to live withous a caps lock.

Thanks for the reply.

Hello! I have 3 fans from Corsair, the LL RGB Fan series to be specific. I have had the problem that the rgb on these are flickering and that the iCUE software doesnt work. I have been in contact with support but all they have TOLD me is to delete other softwares that may interfere. This hasnt worked and now they sent me a replacement that I just INSTALLED without any success. The light is flickering and sometimes shuts off, I have TRIED switching the usb CONNECTION that I use but that didnt work either, so now I dont know what to do.
I have a feeling this is somewhere in the hardware because when I hit the computer the light sometimes go to the right color, like they got a connection, and sometimes shuts off or goes into this random color shifting thats not what I had selected in the software program.
I have a GIGABYTE b450m ds3h if thats to any help.
Would be very grateful for any help!
Regards Noel

Hi!
I recently got a new graphics card, the Sapphire RX 5700 XT, and upon install my computer will not boot up.

The fans and LEDs run both in the case and for my CPU/GPU, but there is no display on my monitor. My power SUPPLY is an EVGA 500W Bronze and I think this may be the issue as the new graphics card recommends 600W. Obviously, I considered this but I had read that those estimates usually run high and my PC doesn't use much power elsewhere. (Naive, I'm guessing)

I can get a new power supply tomorrow, but I wanted to verify that the computer could be receiving enough power to run fans without being able to boot up. Otherwise, I have a series of rabbit-holes to lose myself in order to find a solution.

Thanks for sharing your expertise, as I welcome it!If you can BORROW a known good PSU of 600w or better and swap it in there to test you will know without buying 1 to find out...

P.S. if the card recommends 600 you need 600.

Make sure you have all the PSU cables connected correctly and they are FULLY seated, especially if the GPU requires additional power cables.

You do need to upgrade your power supply but it is doubtful that the wattage difference would cause your computer to fail to boot.  Too small of a power supply will manifest itself in other ways such as unexpected shutdowns, poor performance, early PSU failure and such.  The EVGA 500W Bronze probably puts out APPROX 375W...not exactly a quality unit.

Hi,

Long time lurker but I'm looking at upgrading my computer as it has been a while.

I am by no means an expert but used to be confident in hooking things up and swapping out parts when everything was simple back in the day, but It has been a while.

My concern is that the current motherboard is old - ASRock X58 Extreme3
https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/X58%20Extreme3/index.asp
(Note - only 2 x SATA 3 slots)

I'm looking installing the following and installing windows 10 (currently still USING windows 7) while still keeping the current 2 x 2TB HDD drives in place.
https://www.samsung.com/au/memory-storage/sata-ssd/ssd-870-qvo-sata-3-2-5-inch-1tb-mz-77q1t0bw/

Does anyone see any issues with installation with these new drives on the old motherboard or getting to boot Windows 10 from the new drive (I've read this had been difficult to do for some)?

Current other stats

CPU name:     Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU X 990 3.47GHz
16Gb DDR3 RAM

Thanks for any help
You should have no issue at all...  Travel Here...  to get the tool to create a bootable USB install STIK....you need an empty 1 of at least 4G.

For the install i would only connect 1 of the new SATA's...when all is up and running go to the MBoard site and DLoad all drivers...chipset 1st...then reboot...then all others.

PS you mentioned 2 current SSD's...are you planning on keeping Win 7 ? ? Cause that changes things.
Please clarify the above...Thanks so MUCH for your help.

I was going to remove windows 7 but only after i knew 10 was up and running CORRECTLY, will that be an issue?

The two HDD's are currently already installed one with windows 7 on it.

CheersIt would be best to remove the other drives til Win 10 is up and running...

Up until yesterday, I would just plug my Xbox Elite CONTROLLER 2 into my PC with a USB-C Cable and it would just connect and WORK. Now TODAY... I plug it in and doesn't connect. So I can't use the gamepad to PLAY any games.

Any IDEAS on what to try to get it to connect?

Hello -

Built a gaming PC from scratch and having difficulty installing Windows from a bootable USB drive.

Specs:
MB - Gigabyte B450M DS3H v2
RAM - 16GB HyperX Fury DDR4
SSD - Samsung 500GB
CPU - AMD Ryzen
VGA - EVGA GEFORCE GTX 1660

On boot, the BIOS recognizes the USB drive but the Windows 10 install does not initiate. I've checked the files on the drive and everything seems to be in order (I compared the file structure and file names from an MS support article).

All the BIOS settings are default. The system recognizes the USB drive and also the target SSD (the HDD is disconnected as recommended).

When we boot it, we get the Gigabyte launch screen and then a blank screen with a blinking cursor in the upper left. We've let it SIT for up to an hour thinking maybe it needed time to read the files etc. before commencing but no luck.

Any advice appreciated!
BenHow was the USB STIK CREATED ? ?Either you did not choose to boot from the USB in the BIOS or the Windows is not formatted correctly. Try to create a bootable USB again and check the settings in BIOS.

I recently tried to put in another hard drive from my old computer. i took everything from my old computer that was needed for the hard drive and plugged it in. when i when to GO turn it on it would START but nothing would CONNECT. my keyboard, MOUSE, mic, headset and monitor wouldn't light up or show anything. my led mousepad would start making light. i tried switching the usb around and the mouspad would work in all of them but no the other ones wouldn't work in anyone. i really dont know what do to try make it work.

Please help fast if POSSIBLE

Hi a friend of mine has assembled a desktop pc for me, at first everything worked well but a few days ago I connected a 2 TB external hdd to the frontal usb PORT of my pc but suddenly the hdd went so slow that I had to unplug the hdd and REPAIR it using my laptop but since then the frontal usb PORTS of my desktop pc are no longer functional and when I connect a usb flash drive to the frontal usb ports of my desktop the flash drive NOTIFICATION light just KEEPS flashing and does not get recognized by my desktop and since that day i have to use my rear usb ports. I want to ask what may have caused this problem? and might this issue caused any damage to the motherboard of my desktop? Thanks

Hello guys, im new at this forum. I opened this account just for this unexpected problem and i can't find the solution. I request help from you all. Any reply is appreciated.

Everything is okay with my PC, MY Rig is: i5 9600k 16gb ram gtx 1660 ti asus prime z370 P II motherboard.

But i was trying to overclock a MONTH ago (i was just trying the limits) and i boosted the clock like from 12000mhz to 15000mhz accidentally and i opened the fans to 80% speed. Then my monitor went off. I guess it was too MUCH for it. Then i restarted my pc, everything was ok. Then monitor started randomly to black off and fans were at high speed (same as i made that overclock) . This happens when i play, when i watch something, even when nothing is opened in pc, just desktop.
What i have tried : 1. I DELETED the gpu tweak 2 application (where i overclocked my pc)
2. i installed gpu tweak again and overclocked it like in so small amount like from 12000mhz to 12010mhz.
3. i made a half format of my pc (just local disk C:)
4. i made a full format of my pc.

I tried all of these, nothing worked. And all i have in my mind is to detach the gpu at attach it again, nothing more. PLEASE help me. I made a brand new PC with a monitor and this problem causes all by my fault and now i can't play any game that exists.

Hi everyone

I want to use the next configuration in a PC for mining ethereum. The motherboard, the cpu chip and the RAM memory are old but they were working, but the GPU and the PSU will be new. How can I know if there will be any compatibility problem between the GPU and the rest of the components? Can I damage the new ones if I try to use them together?

Old components:
Motherboard ASUS M2N-X PLUS
CPU AMD Athlon 64 x2
RAM 4GB DDR2

New ones:
PSU AEROCOOL KCAS 700W 80 PLUS (53A/+12V)
GPU XFX Radeon RX570 8GB DDR5 RS XXX Edition

Any comment will be helpful!

Thanks That motherboard I believe is PCI Express 2.0 and so BUS traffic between the video card and CPU/System RAM will be bottlenecked some. If you run a benchmark on the system once built with that video card you can look for the bottleneck in the data. If it under performs to others who have ran the same card, you can safely assume its the BUS bottleneck.

I use to mine and I have to say that its difficult to find a hardware solution to be profitable. Most of the people who are profitable with it are using shady methods of making the money where someone else is paying the electric BILL. There are online calculators that you plug in your power consumption and hardware specs and it shows average EXPECTED return and most BUILDS are in the red where your losing money running it. However if someone else is paying the electric bill it makes it profitable for yourself while your TAKING money from someone elses pocket who is paying the electric bill.

Those who are making money on it in lesser shady methods are those who bought into hardware specific for mining and as the hardware ages they sell the video cards used to recoup most of the money and use that to buy newer cards to keep up with the ever increasing complexity of the mathematical computation to finding the next coin. And those who are making money are usually part of a pool where for every coin found its shared among those in the pool based on how much computational effort you put into the groups pool, so you end up with a fraction of every coin found based on how much your system(s) contributed to the GROUP.

I am having issues downgrading my cpu. 

Specs:
MSI x470 carbon pro 7B78
32gb 2133 RAM
RX 590 GPU

I get the BIOS Light of BOOT solid. 

I checked the BOOT DRIVE it works (Running it now w/r7x)
I reset my CMOS
and unplugged the GPU because of the embedded graphic chip on the 5 still BOOT
I plugged back in GPU
BOOT light
Pulled the battery 5 mins
Checked the PINS on the 5 and its seating
BOOT light
Plugged back in the 7 and the COMPUTER fully booted. 

I want to downgrade so my plex users can use the ryzen 5 for transcodes (8trans) and I can use EMBY with the GPU since it can only handle one at FULL res. 

What could be going on?There is a Bios update for your motherboard to support the Ryzen 5.

Version
7B78v2H2(Beta version)
Release Date
2021-02-04

Description
- Updated AMD AGESA ComboAm4v2PI 1.2.0.0
- Optimized and support AMD Ryzen 5000 series processors.
- Optimized Resizable BAR (Re-Size BAR) function with NVidia Graphics cards.
- Improved AM4 processor compatibility

Here is the Download link https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/X470-GAMING-PRO-CARBON

I have my Windows 10 OS on an SSD and my data and backup partitions on hard drive. I want to copy my data to the SSD and clone that drive (the used data) to both SSD and hard drives as another form of backup.

Is there any problem with that approach? Thought I'd read that the boot files or something were not written to SSD the same way as to hard drive so you couldn't clone between those. Unless you took some extra steps.

I'd love to clone as another, simple way to backup. I also have a NUMBER hard drives that are less than 3 yr's old & figure this is a good use for them.


Thank you,

MacI would keep them separate. If you copy everything to the SSD and do a backup of it, everything is in that one backup file, and if that gets corrupted you could lose the lot. So then you get to the stage of having multiple backups of Windows+Data, which take up more storage space and take longer to do.

With the data stored live and separately on a different drive, if that drive starts to fail you could still access the rest of the data on it and perform recovery operations to get it back. It is far better to have backups of the stuff you just cannot lose like photos, DOCUMENTS, everything else can be got again off of the internet such as passwords and bookmarks, programs etc.

In an IDEAL WORLD you would set up a fresh copy of windows, install drivers if necessary, install just the main programs you always use, then back that up. Then as you are using windows, you are getting updates, installing more programs etc so you do an incremental backup - now you have the choice of restoring the fresh install, or the latest incremental backup you did.

You can then do a separate backup of just your data to a completely different hard drive, ideally unused for anything else.

Hey, all:

I have a MSI GS63VR 7RF, clumsy me HAPPENED to lose a clip for a ribbon cable, and had to super-glue the ribbon cable in PLACE. The clip is the black little hinge clip for the orange ribbon cable (has a "MR" or "MB" label on it) right above the battery and just to the right of the small ribbon cable in the center in this image:


I've also attached some photos of a similar ribbon cable and clip that is in this computer for reference.

Would anyone happen to know where to find one of these clips? Help FINDING one would be greatly appreciated because I just bought a new computer, and want to get this one fixed up before I sell it.

Thank you,

KEVIN

I suffered a motherboard failure and I'm WONDERING how to move the data from 2 RAID 0 HDDs to a new external HDD. The RAID 0 HDDs are currently in the non-functioning laptop and I'd like to recover and move the data from them to another HDD. Is this possible? What do I need to recovery and move data from 2 internal laptop HDD that were in RAID 0? Thanks.Do you have another computer with 2 spare ports the same as the drives in the laptop? they will need to be PHYSICALLY connected to the computer, you can not use usb adapters.

1) If you do then you will need to remove the drives and ATTACH them to the recovery computer
2) Download a copy of reclaim me raid recovery FREE http://www.freeraidrecovery.com/
3) Read the info on Raid 0 recovery https://www.reclaime.com/library/how-to-recover-raid.aspx
4) Once the 2 disks are analyzed you can select the raid array and copy the whole of the 2 drives to a single drive.

How to decrease 'blue light' from my monitor?

Win 7

Is there a way using one(or more?) of the following to decrease the 'blue-light' coming from my monitor(and not use a downloaded 3rd party program):

1) Win 7...I've read that Win 10 has a 'night light' function, but not Win 7. Does anyone know of a way to do the same thing that 'night light' does, but on Win7?

2) Monitor:LG IPS LED 23MP57HQ-P...I've played with the 'color temp' and 'SixColor', but they destroy the 'just right' settings for brightness, contrast, GAMMA and saturation I have set up in my video card.

3) Nvidia Card:GeForce 9600 GT-using YCBCR444(seems to look better than the RGB setting) 

I know I could buy a 'blue-light' film or a PLASTIC frame that 'hangs' on my monitor...I'm just trying to find if there's a way to do this without spending money.
Ideas, anyone?

Thanks!    As you know Win 7 does not have this feature, but what I use is EyeSaver (Free) and works fine with plenty of adjustments, GET it here.
http://eye-saver.findmysoft.com/      Small download.

Have a look at the screenshot please.

DPCUpdate:
I think there is a 2nd partition with Steam GAMES. That would explain a lot.
I still have to reboot the pc to confirm it. At the moment I can't eject it to confirm it - apparently a file is being used that KEEPS me from doing that.

DPCHope this will help https://recoverit.wondershare.com/partition-tips/solved-hard-drive-shows-wrong-capacity.html#:~:text=If%20your%20hard%20drive%20has,it%20see%20the%20File%20Explorer.Open START - RUN - type: diskmgmt.msc
Take a screenshot and postThanks a BUNCH guys!



DPC

I've a Win 10, Dell Inspiron 5675 x64. AMD ryzen 5 1400 quadcore. (Woo.)

I have this nifty issue and it's not consistent by any means.

Comp will power up, run it's startup, I'll startup say Morrowind.
45% chance that from corner to corner the display will have blue or red "mega-pixels" spanning in diagonal lines. This will then cause the entire SCREEN to go dark.
30% chance the display will return, if it does, the game has crashed.

Same vein. I can have Netflix or the ilk playing literally all day, in a browser. Switch to a different service say D+ or YT; diagonal lines, display crash. If it comes back and the service is still up, I can hit play on a video, and again 50% chance of success or fail.

If I boot up Stream Labs OBS and ChatBot at the same time. Display crash.

BUT when things don't crash, it's amazing. I've tried to force it to crash before, opening Marbles for Stream in highest def, alongside watching a show and listening to MUSIC, while livestreaming, and nothing. It made me look dumb.

Here's an image of me trying to go live, and the comp just not having it.This could be caused by a NUMBER of things, but different from each other in how it is caused.

Physical causes:

1) A defective RAM module:
You can download a free memory tester here:
https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-memtest64/
It will put all of the RAM through various tests, hopefully highlighting if there is a ram problem.

2) A badly seated RAM module:
When you are loading several programs at the same time you are using more memory, this could trigger the problem - with the power off and mains lead removed, and antistatic precautions taken (touch a tap or radiator pipe first to earth yourself out) you could take out and replace the ram modules, or swap them around if you have more than one, this can fix a dodgy or dry connection, or show if one module is defective and the other is not.

3) A dodgy monitor cable:
A bad cable can cause display glitches; check the CONNECTIONS or TRY a different cable.

4) A badly seated graphics card:
Do you have a separate graphics card, or are you using processor graphics?
If you have a separate graphics card it may be badly seated as in the memory modules above. Remove and replace the card to make sure it is seated properly.

==============================
5) Overheating causes:
Overheating can be caused by blocked vents, dust build-up inside the case and on fans, location of PC too warm etc.

I know you said the computer can be on for some time and not crash, but you could check for temperature problems; graphics overheating can cause display glitches. You can download HWMonitor for free from here:
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
Read this page for guidance on temperatures:
https://www.gamingscan.com/optimal-cpu-and-gpu-temperatures-for-gaming/

==============================
6) Graphics driver issues:
Make sure your drivers are up to date; if you wish you could uninstall and reinstall the graphics drivers in case they have become corrupted.

==============================

Try some of these out to start narrowing the problem down.

They are connected by a jack, I've placed them in the green hole on the back and the headphone plugin on the front and no SOUND and not recognized on the volume icon. I tried them on another PC and they work fine. I've searched high and low trying to find a solution and I just get the basics, is the power on, plugged into the green plugin etc.I run Windows 10 on both PCs.
Go into Sound Settings and ensure the correct output device is selected from the dropdown. 

Click on Search on the Taskbar and search for Sound Settings if you don't know how to get to Sound Settings.It's not recognized there as I said in my post. It just shows the USB headset I have plugged in.The headset is likely taking priority...what happens with it unplugged ?I have a headset, external speakers and the TV hooked up to my other computer and it shows all of them in the dropdown. I would think the priority would be the one selected to listen to.

OK, just for fun I unplugged the headset and now I don't have anything showing connected. That would be on the speaker icon in the bottom right corner of the monitor and in the sound settings.Did I ruffle some feathers or SOMETHING?Have you tried another speakers on your pc? TRY to reinstall driversI've thought about trying speakers that are connected by a USB connection but don't know if I have some or even if they make them. Remember, these same speakers that are not working on one PC are working on another. That kind of tells me that the PC that they don't work on has a sound card problem or some kind of limitation or other problems. I've checked on drivers but you can't install a driver on something that isn't even being recognized.

I just checked and it lools like they do make USB powered speakers for a PC.Any Yellow !!'s in Device Manager ? ?No yellows, they aren't listed on the device manager.Which MBoard ? ?Foxcom
2ADA
1.00

After looking up my Mboard/baseboard, I also tried to look up my sound card and found out it isn't listed. It's supposed to be in the device manager under sound, video, and game controllers. I wouldn't think it would be missing if there were 6 plugins on the back and one on the front? While I was down in the basement looking through all of my computer parts, I did run across 3 sound cards that I haven't researched yet. Only one came with an installation CD but that doesn't matter, I'm almost sure none could be used on my PC.

OK, before I get sent through the dog and pony show, here is a link to my PC spects.https://www.cnet.com/products/hp-pavilion-p7-1510-core-i3-3220-3-3-ghz-monitor-none-series/
The differences are, I upgraded it to windows 10 and the monitor I'm using (HP) only has a VGA hookup. I've piggybacked my DVI plugin with a DVI/VGA adapter that goes to a VGA connection on my monitor. My monitor also has internal speakers which I can't seem to get working. This is my wife's computer and to mess it up would be life THREATENING. She just doesn't like having to use the headset when doing a zoom meeting with her different ladies clubs and relatives. I've been trying to correct the problem to no avail.
PS: My monitor is an HP 2009m.
Oh well, this thread must be dead?I finally found it --- what "it"? Some time back I saw this thread when helping a colleague and even though I didn't need it the amount of detail and all the troubleshooting links caught my attention and maybe something there will help you.  Of course, you may have already seen this at Microsoft, but ...

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/headphone-jack-not-detecting-headphones-usb/3113fd3c-8608-434b-9817-b4baf30e8138Thanks for the response but the links don't quite DEAL with my problem. It did mention however that I might have to get an HDMI adapter for the jack to plug into which was my next thought anyway. My internal monitor speakers won't work either and may be related to the external speaker problem. Thanks for posting.

I need to UPGRADE a Hard DRIVE for a Toshiba LAPTOP SATELLITE P875-S7310 8 GB windows 8.1 should I replace the Hard drive for a Samsung SSD 860  EVO Data  6 GB 1TB any suggestions what else it needs to upgrade. Please help and Thank you for your response.

I have AMD radeon r7 graphics integrated and r7 m440 discrete. My discrete or dedicated gpu is not working on games programs but i can see it on device manager i tried everything LIKE installing new drivers and uninstalling them. I tried to turn off radeon r7 graphics from device manager but it didnot helped. My r7 graphics has 550 vram and its to low. Please HELP me
The  r7 m440 discrete is NORMALLY supplied as a laptop GPU if so what model Laptop is it and are you using the Windows supplied with the laptop,
It may help to run Speccy from here https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/builds
And select File , publish report and copy the LINK to the report here.

Thankyou

Hardware
i7700k
gtx 1070
16 gb of ram

Basically my PC is dropping frames every minute. It does not matter if I am TYPING a document or playing a game. The frame drops also are not random. I timed the frame drops and they literally happen every 58 SECONDS. I can't FIND anyone with an issue like this. I factory reset without losing files and also did malware removal. I feel really helpless and besides this my system is STILL RUNNING well.

The CD/DVD drive will play anything, AUDIO and video but will not record.  I tried to use cd burner xp which WORKED several years ago but no luck.   Outside of changing out that drive, is there something else I can check?In cd burner xp  under RECORDER there is
Recorder Information
If you select that it will tell you if you have cd/dvd writing support and whether the drive is compatible.
You could try cleaning the DVD with a CD cleaner disk.  if that doesn't work then just replace the drive, the Laser can lose power and read but not write which is not worth repairing the laser when replacement drives are so cheap.
Are you sure you are using a writable DVD?  Sometimes it's something that simple.I don't SEE the choice recorder.   I must be missing it by CHOOSING the wrong page.

My desktop has a hard drive running Vista, and a secondary SSD running 7 which has been used for several years.  The computer started crashing occasionally while using the 7 OS with an error message about new hardware.  Since no new hardware had been ADDED, when restarted it seemed to run fine.  Now it seems that my luck with that has run out, and the restart doesn't even get the OS started.  Looking at the drive, I realized that it was way too full.  Can I COPY everything from the old drive to a new, bigger drive and EXPECT it to work?

Thank you for your time.Certainly clone the SSD  to a larger drive. Will it boot into windows depends, but you have a better chance to get it booting on a larger drive then the present one. Most SSD vendors have cloning software to do this.
This is instructions from Crucial https://www.crucial.com/support/ssd/ssd-install/ssd-install-steps/part-2-copy

You normally have to have at least one of the drives of the same make as the software to get it to work. You can run the software on Vista and attach the 2 SSD's to the computer and clone with auto resize enabled.

Hi!

I have PC with Intel Core i5 with integrated Intel HD Graphics 530 which supports up to 3 separate displays.
I have connected also Nvidia GeForce GT 710 which supports up to 3 separate displays.
I'm using 6 displays for comfort work, but NEED else one for side info (monitoring tools etc.).
So, I got from friend older Nvidia GeForce 9500 GT which supports up to 2 separate displays + one mirroring.
Problem began after computer start and Windows 10 Enterprise 20H2 disabled all three devices, so I had only single screen.
I tried to update drivers, finished and reboot - even bigger problem - flickering screens and I must to go into safe mode.
There I tried to disallow 9500 GT and reboot. Helped not, even it was disallowed and hardware scan it scans not at boot, but the same problem.
Last chance was to disconnect card from PC and I own very old USB 2.0 to VGA adapter. I used it to reach 7th display.
Problem was with driver - on CD packed with, was old for Windows 7 version 1.0.0. I found update to version 1.0.9 for Windows 8/8.1 and at least it identified device msusb to MS USB 2.0 Display. When I connected VGA cable in display settings was monitor found.
But always at trying to extend desktop it disconnect display. So, I was searching the web and found version 2.0.2 with Windows 10 support. Still was the same problem with disconnecting. So, I tried to install driver from internal list and now I knew what I'm searching, found and updated.
All was looking correctly, desktop extended and after next reboot monitor disappeared from display settings and detection helped not, it is only in device manager.

My Q is very simple:
How to solve two Nvidia graphic cards conflict or USB to VGA problem?

THANK you all for each help, reply or comment.
MiroCan you try to use VGA to HDMI wire and then connect SECOND monitor using HDMI port.
For mirroring, if that works?

All latest CPU units should support it.

For graphics card conflicts CHECK this link
https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/game-ready-drivers/13/39986/graphics-card-driver-conflict-two-cards-two-driver/
I tried to post it on Nvidia forum and no reply.
I'm sad, I hope that anything is possible to do with clean Windows install and hope it can work.

Problem is that BIOS/UEFI ALLOWS not to disable PCIe port/device, only Device Manager can disable it, but it is no big deal.

If anybody has idea, please help me.

Thank you all.
Miroclean install windows with uefi disabled...Ok, why UEFI disabled?

Miro

I have a few questions about my printer's ink cartridges.  I have a Canon Pixma TR7520.  For years, regardless of the model, I have been buying 'knockoff' replacement cartridges online.  Even decent 'knockoffs' can be a bit pricey, especially for the printer model I have it seems. 

Most recently, I have been using Office World cartridges that I have bought online.  Are they refillable?  Would it be more economical for me to buy bottles of replacement ink?  If so, will they work with the New World 'knockoffs'?  In other words, I don't want to buy bottles of ink only to find out that they are not refillable or the printer will not accept them after they are refilled and reinstalled.  Or the other issue is that I might have to buy a pricey DEVICE so that they become recognizable / usable.

Any advice would be helpful.  I assume that REFILLING my 'knockoff' cartridges will be no different from refilling the original Canon cartridges that cost the most. 

If you can suggest the best alternative for me based on my printer model (Canon Pixma TR7520), that would be great!  THANKS.
The Canon cartridges have one use chips to allow the printer to detect the new cartridge this also needs to be replaced each time the cartridge is refilled. They are quite cheap if you buy a few hundred at a time. Something else cannon printers NEED after every 4 times the cartridges are replaced is the head assemble replaced, you can delay this longer but is not advisor able.
An ink jet printer also has a waste tray for the ink used in priming the head when this gets full the printer will error which also needs to be cleaned out (messy use gloves) or replaced.
There is no cost saving in buying a small numbers of chips and the ink to do what the big guys do. Perhaps see if there is someone who will recycle the old cartridges local to you.I appreciate the info.; it definitely HELPS.  In my mind I have two options: (1) buy the authentic Canon refills and pay a ton, (2) buy 'knockoffs' and save a lot, or (3) buy bottles of ink, refill my cartridges, and maybe save even more - albeit the extra 'dirty work'.

I have been doing option #2 for the longest time.  By no means do we do what I would define as a large quantity of printing, but as a family of 4 you go through your share of materials for this and that regularly.  Before I print anything, I always ask myself, do I need to?

Anyway, in recent years even the 'knockoff' cartridges seem to be getting more and more expensive.  I think there are two reasons for this.  (1) The particular model of printer we have has a limited number of compatible cartridges on the MARKET.  (2) I believe nowadays Canon probably manufactures their printers that way to do just that.  As we know, the printer companies likely make most of their money on their replacement cartridges, not on their printers.  It makes total sense for Canon to make it more and more difficult to use non-Canon cartridges in their printers.

Finally, in my mind, because printers are extremely cheap considering their capabilities, I am not worried about heeding the warnings about using factory cartridges only that we have heard so many times over the years.  I find that today's printers have really good technology (wireless printing, scanning, and several other great functions), do a really good and efficient job (some better than others based on the brands and models), and are quite inexpensive.  When I say inexpensive, I compare inkjet printers with their cartridges.  When you buy a set of replacement cartridges and they cost 50-75% of what your printer costs...  I was always willing to take the risk and use 'knockoff' cartridges with my printers - and still do!  Does they decrease the life of the printer?  Does they do an inferior job?  Probably.  But in the end, it's still the most economical way to go even if you have to replace your printer more frequently!  I've found that with few exceptions such as photo printing, Laser or Colour Laser can be a more economical choice. The printers themselves are more expensive, and the toner tends to cost about the same as ink, but I've found that the toner tends to last a lot longer than ink, and also doesn't suffer from some of the problems I've experienced with inkjet printers (ink drying up and clogging the print heads over time when not printing often, for example).

Depending on specifically what you print, you might even find a Black and White Laser to be a worthwhile option, as they are quite affordable.

Anyone know brands/models of the last and best (mid-to-high end) graphics cards, having an actual VGA port? I'm not interested in connectors, adapters, or other gizmos to fit a VGA plug to any other sort of port, so that eliminates current cards. I'm interested in recommendations of legacy cards with a VGA port.Hi, you didn't say in your post what you needed to do with the card, you are only going to be able to run older games on it it that is what you wanted. Also I don't know which country you are in, I am in the UK.

I looked for graphics cards about 6 months ago when I was building my system - I was looking for the best graphics card I could GET that had a VGA (D-SUB) port, as I could not afford a new monitor at the time.
There is very little available with VGA brand new, and because of lockdown the availability of graphics cards is very low.

This card is generally available, MSI GeForce GT 730 2GB DDR3 ===  https://www.ebuyer.com/738918-msi-geforce-gt-730-2gb-ddr3-vga-dual-link-dvi-d-hdmi-pci-e-graphics-n730k-2gd3h-lp    £71.49 + £5.98 delivery.
OR this one with 4GB  ===  https://www.zotac.com/gb/product/graphics_card/geforce®-gt-730-4gb-ddr5

I looked around for several hours for any alternatives, I could find older cards that had VGA ports, but then finding them for sale was impossible.

GEFORCE GT 1030 2G LP OCV2:
https://www.msi.com/Graphics-Card/GeForce-GT-1030-2G-LP-OCV2/Overview
You may be able to find somewhere selling it if you click on 'WHERE TO BUY'

I saw this graphics card MENTIONED on another forum, but I have never bought anything from AliExpress so I cannot vouch for them, however the card's specs do look ok:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001339136036.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.37725746FMd7Xh&algo_pvid=7630c372-2114-4c34-9e2e-46e0c9fb052d&algo_expid=7630c372-2114-4c34-9e2e-46e0c9fb052d-13&btsid=2100bde716158079074916048ea690&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

==========================================================================================
Your other option is to go for a card with a DVI-I port (NOTE: not DVI-D, look for Dual-link DVI-I) this only needs the correct cable, no dongles or adapters.

Example of cable:
https://www.ebuyer.com/130561-xenta-dvi-i-to-vga-monitor-cable-2-metre-plex-058

This is probably one of the top cards with DVI-I, but again, where is the stock?
https://www.msi.com/Graphics-Card/GTX-980-Ti-GAMING-6G-LE
==========================================================================================
Hope this gets you started looking around.



Quote from: Gizmo on March 15, 2021, 08:39:46 AM

Hi, you didn't say in your post what you needed to do with the card, you are only going to be able to run older games on it it that is what you wanted. Also I don't know which country you are in, I am in the UK.

I looked for graphics cards about 6 months ago when I was building my system - I was looking for the best graphics card I could get that had a VGA (D-SUB) port, as I could not afford a new monitor at the time.
There is very little available with VGA brand new, and because of lockdown the availability of graphics cards is very low.

This card is generally available, MSI GeForce GT 730 2GB DDR3 ===  https://www.ebuyer.com/738918-msi-geforce-gt-730-2gb-ddr3-vga-dual-link-dvi-d-hdmi-pci-e-graphics-n730k-2gd3h-lp    £71.49 + £5.98 delivery.
OR this one with 4GB  ===  https://www.zotac.com/gb/product/graphics_card/geforce®-gt-730-4gb-ddr5

I looked around for several hours for any alternatives, I could find older cards that had VGA ports, but then finding them for sale was impossible.

GEFORCE GT 1030 2G LP OCV2:
https://www.msi.com/Graphics-Card/GeForce-GT-1030-2G-LP-OCV2/Overview
You may be able to find somewhere selling it if you click on 'WHERE TO BUY'

I saw this graphics card mentioned on another forum, but I have never bought anything from AliExpress so I cannot vouch for them, however the card's specs do look ok:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001339136036.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.37725746FMd7Xh&algo_pvid=7630c372-2114-4c34-9e2e-46e0c9fb052d&algo_expid=7630c372-2114-4c34-9e2e-46e0c9fb052d-13&btsid=2100bde716158079074916048ea690&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

==========================================================================================
Your other option is to go for a card with a DVI-I port (NOTE: not DVI-D, look for Dual-link DVI-I) this only needs the correct cable, no dongles or adapters.

Example of cable:
https://www.ebuyer.com/130561-xenta-dvi-i-to-vga-monitor-cable-2-metre-plex-058

This is probably one of the top cards with DVI-I, but again, where is the stock?
https://www.msi.com/Graphics-Card/GTX-980-Ti-GAMING-6G-LE
==========================================================================================
Hope this gets you started looking around.

Hi Vetal,

You are really narrowing your options with being limited to a Graphics card with VGA native support. And will be paying over the top for older technology which in most cases will use more power.
The https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-gtx-980-ti-gtx-980ti-gaming-6g-le/p/N82E16814127895# you linked doesn't have a VGA connector , VGA is via an adapter from the DVI-I socket. The adapter is supplied with the card.
You would have more options for a card with either DVI-I or display port and an adapter.
Do you have the other parts for the system and what version of windows selected if so can you post this information.
Also the version of Tails you ae running to check it has support for the graphics card.

Here is a link to the Wikipedia page about the VGA connector - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VGA_connector
The VGA connector is a D-sub type DE-15, I haven't seen a graphics card or monitor with a different VGA connector, they have all had 3 rows of 5 pins for 15 pins in total.

Are you watching the movies using the LiveCD, or in windows? I don't think using the tor network for streaming would be very stable.
Even the cheapest graphics card, the GeForce GT 710 will handle full HD movie playback if that is causing the problem.

One of the reasons I want a decent graphics card (after building the PC there were none available, I am using the i5-9600K graphics) is for
video converting. The Geforce cards have CUDA cores in them, which can be used to vastly speed up the conversion process in the software that supports it, although the i5 does a pretty good job on its own and can convert a 140 min 1080p film in about 40 mins.
Have a look at this page, it lists nearly every graphics card made going back to the 90's - I had a Radeon 9600 SE way back in 1995 (not listed, but the LE is) - have fun Googling them... https://www.tomshardware.com/uk/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html

This page is for checking if a card can run certain games, BUT, if you click on the GPU dropdown selection, it goes back to some quite old cards, you can then click on the picture that comes up and it will try a search on Amazon - https://www.pcgamebenchmark.com/compare-graphics-cards
You will have to be cautious here and make sure you are looking for the right interface, I presumed before that you had PCI-e in your PC, but as you are talking about a legacy build is it AGP?

I have dabbled with photoshop, but because I scraped by for years on an old slow computer didn't use it a lot, because my PC would make it annoying to use. I got into photo editing on Paint Shop Pro, and the program got quite good over the years, and in some cases I think its better than photoshop because it has more automation and user friendliness built in. However now I have a half decent PC I will go back to relearning Photoshop again. I used GIMP in its early days, looks like its improved a lot, just downloaded it to check it out.
I recently bought a second hand Panasonic FZ330 camera (FZ300 in USA), so I can't wait for summer so I can go out and get some photos to edit.

Hope this helps some more.

Dear Users
I need suggestions regarding hardware requirements. I have A4tech 935 HL webcam and I want to smoothly RECORDING my class ROOM white board lectures. So what hardware I need to RECORD at 1080p 30 FPS smoothly without any lags

The computer reboots usually after I get back on it in the mornings. Sometimes at night. I have upgraded the power supply because it would sometimes not reboot and the fans would all still be on but that didn't help. Also updated Nvidia driver. This is not a BSOD.Can you download Speccy from here https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download
Run it and select File, publish snapshot then copy the url link to your next post.
This will allow us to review your computer build for a possible solution.http://speccy.piriform.com/results/8LiW6G2MJzSP6fZ2prMYHaiThankyou for the Speccy Report. It shows everything is OK. No over clocking etc. What power supply do you have now ?I know you said it's not a bsod, but let's double check please.
Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next replyEVGA 750 G+ . I don't even have a minidump folder. I have the full MEMORY.DMP file. That program will not work with that.The power supply is up to the task of running the computer so it's not the problem.
WELL the 650 was up to par as well but it's commonly thought that is it shuts down or restarts and the fans are still going then the power supply is starting to go out. That obviously wasn't the problem.any thoughts?Next time this happens,

Can you post what you do to get the computer to startup again and doesn't it keep going? the Speccy report shows the computer is running very COOL not over heating.
When you get the computer restarted is there any entry's in the windows logs pointing to where the problem might be.

Also you have these running,


Friday, April/16/2021 8:05 PM;: OBS stop streaming

Monday, May/10/2021 10:59 AM;: Driver Easy Scheduled Scan
audio router
BirdFeederCam Bot
CCleanerSkipUAC
CreateExplorerShellUnelevatedTask
minerstat-win
NiceHash QuickMiner
ROCCAT DEVICE SERVICE

Do you want these scheduled, Driver Easy should go
And if you don't want to STREAM a web cam BirdFeederCam Bot
And if you are not wanting to mine bitcoin the rest should go as well
ROCCAT DEVICE SERVICE seems to have caused problems for some users,  you will need to un install all the swarm software to stop it loading.
You could also see if the problem is there when running Win10 in safe mode with networking. If it works ok in safe mode it is either 1 of the above services or a driver.
To access windows 10 safe mode refer here https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/start-your-pc-in-safe-mode-in-windows-10-92c27cff-db89-8644-1ce4-b3e5e56fe234

 Sometimes it will just reboot on its on. Other times I long-press the power button. The fans never stop. Driver Easy isn't installed that's just leftover trash LIKE CCleaner. If I didn't want to stream the cam I would not have it set up to turn on the software and start streaming at a set time automatically and have it close. If I didn't want to mine eth (not bitcoin) I wouldn't have nicehash on 24/7. Roccat is the keyboard software. Uninstalling that is out of the question as it would render the keyboard useless. I'm well aware how to access safe mode. The miner, audio router, and Roccat were all installed after it started doing this and can't be to blame. This didn't start happening right after anything was added, installed, or taken away. I know it's not the power supply, that does seem like it would be the culprit because if one is going bad it can still power the fans and lose power elsewhere. However, I installed a new one thinking it was the problem but it's not. I'm thinking it's not software-related as there are zero errors anywhere other than the Kernel-Power error (ID 41) error message states that the system has rebooted without first cleanly shutting down. It could be hardware-related. Have I left it on for 24 hours sitting there in safe mode? No, as I would not be able to use the computer for anything I need to.Unless it is a poorly assembled build, it is not Hardware ..... I have checked the speccy report twice and the hardware checks out perfect.
Which leaves either a poor mains supply is this a possibility  or software. if you can't/won't do the diagnoses to find what software is causing this how can we help ? As i said in my last post swarm software seems to have caused problems for other users . Your comment "Uninstalling that is out of the question as it would render the keyboard useless." You are only un installing to test not for ever.
The computer appears to be less than a year old, how come you are not returning it under warranty.
Or did you assemble it yourself ? If so did you use Anti static procedures.I built this computer. As I stated, everything except OBS was installed after much after it started doing this. The power supply is new. I explained that I replaced it thinking it was the problem. If it was installed after the problem started it's not the problem as it was doing it before it was even in the equation. As much as I like speccy you can't truly test a mobo or cpu without a diagnostic card.You can effectively test the Motherboard and CPU with software. I don't know of a modern hardware diagnostic card which from the connections on your motherboard would test it. Even old PCI post cards are not supported and are normally used for diagnostics of   motherboard which won't complete post.
You could make up a memtest flash drive, with memtest running and try gently moving the memory and other connection to see if it locks up or restarts.
 None of the software can test the physical components like capacitors, etc that I know of. I know the post cards are old school but they will still tell you more than beeps (if you can find the code chart for the specific bios lol). The ram is new and it did the same with the old ram.

Hello,

I got a third display SET up and working fine.  My second display is plugged directly into HDMI on laptop and works fine.  Bought this as a USB to HDMI adapter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0725K1MHH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Everything works, but the problem is, the third display has too high of resolution, so it's very zoomed in.  When I GO into my display settings and select the third monitor, the resolution option grays out.  pic: https://gyazo.com/deb1ed64a421fd1f57eaff17d8b2c899

Any ideas? Hi
Did you LOAD the driver software for the adapter ?

What Monitor are using using on the adapter? Quote from: Lisa_maree on April 21, 2021, 02:35:49 PM

Hi
Did you load the driver software for the adapter ?

What Monitor are using using on the adapter?

Because you are using HDMI connected to a TV there is no options to change resolution it is, what it is. Try the setup with an HDMI monitor and you will have all the resolution options the monitor supports.

About a week ago I had my homebuilt computer suddenly die while it was up and running.  I have pretty much determined that the motherboard failed and I have purchased a replacement.  I installed it today and everything went fine but when I turned on the power everything appeared to START up and run normally but I'm not getting anything up on the display.  So.....what gives??  I do not use a separate GRAPHICS card and the graphics display is handled by the CPU which is an Intel Core i5-6500 Skylake Quad-Core 3.2 GHz  LGA 1151 65W Intel HD Graphics 530.  I'm wondering if SOMETHING in the CPU that handles the graphics has failed.  Or maybe the whole CPU has failed.  I can't tell what's GOING on because I can't see anything up on the display.  Does anybody have any suggestions??  I'd like to TRY to troubleshoot this problem before I go and spend a bunch of $$$ purchasing a new CPU.

Hello all. I have a Gateway computer purchased in 2013. It is a DX4870-UB318. The motherboard is an Acer IPIMB-AR Rev 1.02A. It fails to boot to the bios. After turning it on, the fans startup and then it basically stops there. Nothing displayed on the screen. I have removed all connections to the motherboard. I have removed the battery for an hour. I have reset the CMOS. I have reseated the RAM sticks. I have tried only one stick of ram (two 4 GB sticks) at a time. I have tried a different power supply. Nothing seems to work. What other trouble shooting steps can I perform? Does someone have a copy of a bios that I can install directly to the mother board and what is the process to do this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.You cannot install bios to the motherboard on your own. Go to serviceI don't understand.  Please explain why it cannot be installed.  Thank you.It seems that your CPU doesn't support bios your motherboard has. However I may be WRONG. What CPU do you have?
If I'm right, then you should find a suitable cpu and do the update or go to service.Replace the CMOS battery   CR2032.The CPU is a Intel Core i5 (3rd Gen) 3330 / 3 GHz.

The CMOS battery has been replaced and did not help correct the issue.1. Does it beep when there are no components? (Every component removed but the CPU ie: RAM, graphics card, any other cards, all USB, all drive CABLES, even keyboard/mouse, any accessories plugged into the power connectors)
 1b. (its piezo buzzer is soldered to the MB - so beeping should not be an issue)

2. Are any capacitors bad (LEAKING or brown spots), especially near the CPU area? (Bad caps = voltage flux = common older MB cause of death)

 3. (CMOS battery replaced - so that's out. I'm assuming it was a known good battery)

 4. (You tried a different known good power supply - so that's out)

5. Any MB shorts? (System dusted, no metal touching where it shouldn't front or back)

6. The CPU is compatible - Was it removed or messed with? Did you do a quick reseat test? Did you test it in another working MB?
    (In 95% of cases the MB fails before the CPU ever does. Testing the CPU is usually a last ditch effort.)


At this point I'd call the MB toast.. No beeps is a very bad sign.

When a computer cannot get to POST, that is a low-level hardware failure. It commonly is caused by one of 4 things: Bad Power Supply, failed CPU, failed mainboard, and on rare occurrences, bad memory.

I should have just sent you here: https://www.lifewire.com/fix-computer-that-turns-on-but-displays-nothing-2624443Hello, I have 4 IPIMB-AR REV 1.02A boards. Real quick first off have you priced this board? Wow, what makes them so expensive after all this time? Anyway, I have one on my workbench I'm tweaking for my build. I have had it do exactly what is going on with you, most recently I overclocked my 16gb (2x8) cheap budget ram Atech I believe it is, fried the ram. I had already put everything together and in the case to. Through the process of elimination I finally got it running again removed everything which is ram, hard drive, fans, front panel plugs, USB 2.0 and 3.0, 750ti GPU, mouse, keyboard, wireless card everything. Well my ram only worked in the front two slots already so I used some extra 4g and added 1 at a time because it didn't work right away with both. Leave everything off but your fans, mouse, keyboard, and hard drive. Use your onboard HDMI. Make sure both 4 pin and 24 pin power are connected and reset your CMOS and Bios. If your not getting any response from that use the front panel plug pins discussed earlier with the diagram use a screw driver or whatever you feel comfortable using in that tight spot and long press the reset pins hold your tool until it beeps or shuts down then hit the power on pins adjacent  to the reset ones. You can also long press those as well. Move one stick of working ram around and keep hitting those pins. Also if all else fails and you have a new SSD hook it up and throw a USB bootable drive in the 3.0 on the back and see if you get a response that way.These may help.Not sure if this is the same issue,  Computer will boot but hangs at BIOS.  This just recently started happening after a Windows 10 update and installing a printer?   I know on other computers (a couple of HPs) I received instructions from HP to update the BIOS  as a way to solve the issue.  While they are not the same company the problem seems like it could be the same, so does anyone have the latest BIOS?

Can I put my hard disk from my old laptop alongside the new hard disk in a new laptop? Both hard disks would have an OS on them, would that cause a problem? Putting the old hard disk in would save me a lot of trouble transferring data and downloading software.As long as you don't try to boot from the old drive, it doesn't matter what's on it.Thanks for answering, Allan, I'm debating WHETHER to get my laptop repaired or get a new one. I've had a new SSD put in my old laptop recently and it seems a waste not to put it to use and, as I said, it would save me a lot time and trouble. Thanks again. Hi Dave

What make and model are the 2 Laptops? What VERSIONS of Windows are they running ? And what is the problem you were having with the old laptop. As it is unlikely that the new laptop will take 2 drives, you may need to put the SSD from the old laptop into an external case and use it. 
With the above info we will be able to provide a solution.Hello Lisa,
At the moment I'm still making my mind up what way to go, repair my old laptop or buy a new one. Because of this I haven't chosen a specific laptop yet but my current laptop is an HP Pavilion using Windows 10 v19041. The problem I have is a broken hinge that has caused the lid to distort which has made the screen lift slightly on the right hand bottom corner. Having spent out on a new SSD recently together with the lid/screen problem I wonder if repairs will become a false economy. I have watched YouTube videos that show the SSD in a caddy being placed in the Optical Drive. If the SSD could become an external drive that might be an easier solution. Thanks for trying to help.Hi Again

The hinge problem is very COMMON with HP Pavilions and is normally not economic to repair if you can't do it yourself. So I suggest a new laptop. This UNFORTUNATELY is unlikely to take the SSD drive you have so the external en closer is an option. It is important to use the SSD in a USB3 or newer standard en closer.

The other option is to source a laptop which will take your SSD and is running Windows 10. Then you could swap out the drive in the new laptop with  the SSD. Windows 10 is very tolerant booting on different hardware.

Would you consider a used/refurbished laptop ?

Hello Lisa,

Sorry for the delay answering, I decided to contact a local computer repair business and they TOOK the laptop away to check it over. As they are now waiting for the parts to come in they brought the laptop back and I can now reply to you. I think this will be the last repair and if there is another problem I will get another laptop. In the meantime I will look at what's on offer keeping all your advice in mind, especially about the USB3 for the SSD. Thanks for taking the time to help me, I appreciate it.

Dave.

I have a Gateway PC.  I got it new about 1.5 years ago.  Here are the specs:
Pentium 4 2.0 GHz
256 MB DDR RAM(DIMM)
Intel 82845G/GL Graphics Controller
Windows XP Home Edition
I just installed the nVidia GeForce4 MX 440 with 64 MB.  Games are running SMOOTHER but when I play Unreal Tournament 2003, the screen goes black after about 20 minutes of playing.  It then changes to lighter and lighter shades of gray.  Then, it goes to the desktop and I have to maximize UT2003 again.  Why does it do this and how can I fix it?
maybe a patch is needed>http://www.unrealtournament.com/  also type dxdiag in the run box..or is it getting to hot for the graphics card and therefore its breaking down...I downloaded the patch but then the files of UT2003 were corrupted and the game would not run.  I then uninstalled and reinstalled it.  I do not have the patch and the game runs fine.  The screen seems to turn black and go to the desktop every 20-25 minutes.  It may be that it is getting too hot because my PC does not have a fan, except for the 2 INCH one in the power source.it may help if you took the case off..more air more COOL or have you got  a portable fan place this near your pc any better..I think it may just be a combination of overheating and low memory.  If I put a little portable fan near the PC, should i put it so that it faces into the ventilation HOLES?I doubt your computer is overheating. Considering your system specifications.

Unless you are heavily overclocking.

What other games randomly reset? Unreal Tournament 2003 is perhaps above the specifications your system meets.

I suggest you install the later drivers for your Nvidia videocard.

Well, I had this other computer, it finally succomed to the bad clusters in both hard drives, and died, so pulled the one I am using now out of storage. I recently put another hard drive in it, so now it has two. I tried using my cdrom, and it doesnt work, so I go into system properties into the hardware listing. Both my primary IDE controller and the secondary have yellow exclamations next to them,  (Both controllers are duel fifo by the WAY)so I click on them, and here is what it says:

"This device is either not present, not working properly, or does not have all of the drivers installed. (code 10). "

It says that on both the primary and secondary controllers. The cdrom is not present in the "my computer" window, or in the hardware list.

I then clicked on the  performance tag in the system properties box, and in a white box within it, it says:

"Compatability-mode paging reduces overall system performance"

and

"Drive C is using MS-DOS compatability mode file system."

I clicked on both and this is what I got:

"Compatibility mode paging reduces overall system performance.

Windows was unable to identify a real-mode driver or memory-resident program loaded in your Config.sys or Autoexec.bat file. You will see another message that lists the name of the driver or program causing the problem.
Because Windows could not identify the driver or program, it has SWITCHED to MS-DOS compatibility mode to ensure the program will run. However, this decreases overall performance. To improve performance, remove the program or driver causing the problem, or contact its manufacturer for an upgraded version."

and

"Drive X is using an MS-DOS compatibility mode file system.

This problem often occurs on more than one drive. Usually it is caused by a driver listed in the Config.sys file that Windows does not recognize and that is related to the message Compatibility mode paging reduces overall system performance. If you see both messages, see the Help for the Compatibility mode paging reduces overall system performance message first.
If you only see the message Drive X is using an MS-DOS compatibility mode file system on one drive, that drive is using an MS-DOS compatibility (real-mode) driver, which may reduce that drives performance. Contact your hardware manufacturer to see if an updated driver is available for your drive. If not, the drives performance may be less than OPTIMAL, but you can still use it."

What does all this mean?

I also unhooked my secondary hard drive, restarted, and both IDE controllers are still not working. I uninstalled the PCI Bus master IDE Controller, then restarted, windows detected the hard drives and installed the drivers, and I still get the same thing.

That's pretty much it, if anyone can help me, it would be appreciated. Here is some specs and STUFF on the computer:

Desktop Model (not tower)
IBM Personal Computer 350
Intel Mother board  built in '97
64 MB ram
Built-in video card (2 MB)
3 gig hard drive (C)
1.28 gig hard drive (D)
Generic CD ROM drive
Pentium 200 MMX (upgraded to this)
Windows 98 SE
2 USB Ports
Intel 82371SB PCI Bus Master IDE Controller

Also, there is this little card that is plugged in next to the CPU, it looks like a PCI slot, what is this?Check this. start/programs/accessories/system tools/system information. Click tools/system configuration utility. Click advanced. See if there is a check mark in the box that says force compatability mode for disk access (or similar). If there is, uncheck it. Click ok. If the apply button on the next screen is "lit" click it. Allow windows to reboot.I looked into that, and it was already unchecked. What ELSE can I do? This thing is really slow now, I assume because of the MS-DOS crap.two links to look at>http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=http://support.microsoft.com:80/support/kb/articles/q130/1/79.asp&NoWebContent=1 and this>http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=http://support.microsoft.com:80/support/kb/articles/q151/9/11.asp&NoWebContent=1   or try update adapter cards driver..If the hard drives and CDROMs are being driven from a mainboard IDE connection, make sure that the mainboard IDE taps are active in BIOS and that they recognise the drives properly there (hard drive, hard drive, CDROM, CDRW...). If they continue to fail to work, use a Promise Enhanced IDE PCI card and deactivate the MB ATAPI/IDE adaptors. The Promise card includes a BIOS extension so you can run hard drives and CDROMS directly from it.

The little 'card' connected next to the processor is your L2 Cache Static Ram module.