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I need to take video & audio from pc ONTO my tv moniter, can anybody TELL me the best way?
is it through an s-video output (which I dont have) - if it is do I need a new video card?When you say "TV monitor" can we assume you actually MEAN a television set? If that is so tell us what input ports you have available on the TV? What type of TV are we talking about here? An HDMI or analog? truenorthHi,
modern LCD tv with inputs, s-video, scart, phono, VGA. Here are some links that will EXPLAIN it all for you. I have done already what you are about to do. So if you have any additional question just ask.
http://www.thisishowyoudoit.com/blog/connect-laptop-computer-to-digitallcd-tv/
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-CA/windows-vista/Connect-your-computer-to-a-TV
http://en.kioskea.net/faq/228-how-to-connect-your-pc-to-your-tv-set
Goodluck,truenorth

Hi , looking for some advice. On boot up(and it's sporadic) I'm getting what I suspect is a noisy fan. I say this because the noise appears to be from the back of the PC. I've followed CH's advice and cleaned these fans but the noise is back after just a short time. This PC has four fans and I've ruled out the fan on the Video Card (new) and I've heard this noise once or twice before the card was installed. My problem is that this noise does not last too long, so it's difficult to determine(checking inside with the cover off) exactly where that noise is coming from. Plus the fact that all of these fans are in close proximity. I'm not about to try to do anything with fan in the power supply. I've read the CH info. on power supplies. Now, what I would like to do is check out the Case Fan and the CPU Fan. Obviously I'd do this one at a time. The plug-ins for both of these fans are very accessible. Is there any problem if I disconnect these(one at a time) (reconnect)and boot up. I'm sure that I wouldn't want to run too long without these fans working (especially the CPU Fan) but I should be able to determine this quite quickly. Would this be an option? I hate to leave this until something major happens.Best way to test this is REMOVE a side panel...
When the noise starts use a QTip or tongue depresser to stop each fan 1 at a time...
Do not stop them for very long ...but it will tell you where the offending fan is.

NOTE: A noisy fan does not always need replaced...sometimes the mount screws are loose....
However it should be ADDRESSED either way.Quote from: patio on February 18, 2010, 10:25:11 AM

NOTE: A noisy fan does not always need replaced..

Due to not having a screen saver, I began turning my MONITOR off when leaving it. Now when I BOOT up or sometimes even when it's running, it won't show a screen. I have to power it down and BACK up several times to get it to maintain a screen display. After I do, it stays on 98% of the time until I power it down. is my monitor SHOWING signs of going on the blitz? I have checked for current drivers and they're good. Sleep mode is not enabled BTW.Sounds like the display is on its way out. For future reference, DO NOT turn the display on and off MULTIPLE times during the day. The worst thing you can do to any electronic component is continually power it on and off. Instead, just set the display (and hd) to power down after a defined period of inactivity (Control Panel - power options). Doing this is better than using Sleep, Hibernation, or a screen saver.I started leaving it alone and reinstalled a screen saver after the problem showed up but it still does it when booting up the computer.

All of a sudden tonight, while looking at some photos, these horizontal colorful lines appeared on images and then the SCREEN went black and the light on the monitor went from GREEN to orange.

I rebooted and it came back fine for a while and then happened again. Sometimes the lines come and go and sometimes the screen goes black. This just started happening TODAY so I am guessing it will just get worse fast.

I took photos of the screen with my camera PHONE of the same image- one with and one WITHOUT the lines. My monitor is a Dell # E172FPt

image without lines:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c319/landa321/59574436.jpg

image with the lines:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c319/landa321/b12bf484.jpg

thanks in advanceHave your tried to use a different monitor on that computer? If so and the problem is still there then i would say it was your video card.It's the video card.

Hello everyone, I have a problem with my Compaq Presario s4000nx. About 2 weeks ago I did a clean install of Windows xp Home from my boot disks that I created when I first got the computer, of course everything well, aside from the fact that my computer was telling me to either press f1 for setup or F2 to resume. Fine, I would resume. About a week ago, upon restart (after windows update) I would get a black screen saying that I would either have to have my sytem serviced immediatly or press f2 to resume or the computer would shut down in 5 seconds. After several attempts to get windows to load up just by restarting (because f2 wouldn`t work) of course I finally got BSOD. The only thing I can do is enter setup. f8 isn`t working, there is no recovery option. My partition has been wiped, the computer had a black screen come up saying no hard drive found, no operating system found, and now, other than entering setup the only thing that comes up is the `preparing compaq system recovery` , it goes through the motion, restarts itself and gives me a black screen with a flashing cursor. I have disconnected all of the devices except the keyboard, and my external cd drive (which I USE to run my cds from because my built in no longer works). Already changed boot order for that. I have also TAKEN out my 2 sticks of Ram and left one each in turn to see if it was damaged Ram.
BSOD error was 0xc000021a. However I`m past that now, I am only able to access setup screen. Even after I changed the boot order bootable disks will not load (or boot)

As it stands now, the only thing I can do is enter setup. And all I get is the black screen with cursor.

I`m wondering if both of my HDDs are corrupt.

Please if anyone can HELP me I would appreciate it! Some other info: there are 2 hard drives installed ( I would have to open it up and check for names)
Open the computer up / get the names of each drive / go to their sites and download the diagnostic software for them.

Alan <><

Hi I have a question about monitors. My Windows 7 Pro PC has a PNY 7300GT graphic card with s-video, vga and dvi out. right now I have a dual monitor system using the vga and dvi out. But what I like to do is to add a third monitor using the s-video out. I bought a s-video to vga adaptor, but the third monitor doesn't get any video signal from the adaptor. I am wondering if it's even possible to have a three monitor system?

TIA. It depends on the graphics card. Most new performance cards will support two monitors. But you can get quad cards.
Also you can get external diplexers, These are not just simple splitters.

Back to your question. No, that card,PNY 7300GT, supports only two independent monitors.

They make a quad:

PNY Quadro NVS 420 WORKSTATION Graphics Card - 512MB GDDR3, PCI Express 2.0 x16, VHDCI, Quad Display PORT via supplied Adapter CableSwitch to Mac or Linux.Clik Here...

You do NOT have to use MAC or Linux. Ignore that troll.

This link is to a site that sells the external converters made by Matrox. Thy can make a laptop into a triple display. If you have two external monitors.

http://www.allstarshop.com/shop/simprod.asp?pid=18314&ad=gg&gclid=CKC0k_6h_58CFRcvagodDSEelg

I use dual HEAD Matox, but have never tried to go three monitors. But many others have done it with suitable hardware.
Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 19, 2010, 01:48:49 PM

You do NOT have to use MAC or Linux. Ignore that troll.

My solution to this would be to add a PCI video card for that third monitor. This would probably be the lowest cost solution. If you go this route, I suggest the PCI card have a nVidia graphics chip; this minimizes the chance for conflict, compared to a nVidia/ATI combination. However, the latter combo has also been used in many multiple monitor configurations.

My Laptop is NEC Lavie LL750/B which I bought in 2002 from JAPAN. Because my Toshiba 2.5" 80GB HDD which came in my Laptop stopped functioning, I ordered the SAMSUNG HM160HC 160GB 2.5" IDE PATA HARD DRIVE HDD online . I am pretty sure that my Toshiba HDD is 2.5" and 44 pins but I just want you guys opinions;
Here is the pic of my Toshiba HDD: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[emailprotected]/
This is the HDD that I ordered: http://www.expresspcparts.com.au/Items/hdd-360-alt-hm160hc?&caSKU=hdd-360-alt-hm160hc&caTitle=SAMSUNG%20HM160HC%20160GB%202.5%22%20IDE%20PATA%20HARD%20DRIVE%20HDD
What do you guys think? Did I order the RIGHT HDD for my Laptop?Should work fine...Yes it should be ok. NEWER IDE PATA drives are backwards compatible so it should work, probably slower as is capable but still ok for your notebook.

I recently posted that my picture was freezing just about every time I have been on a skype video call. It was suggested that I check the drivers and install any new ones or re0-install them I suppose. The PROBLEM is that the little webcam is about 6 or 7 years old and is a JAPANESE company. In other words, an English website is non-existent and getting drivers is difficult if at all possible.

I am considering the idea of buying a new webcam, as well. I realize that you pretty much get what you pay for in terms of quality. A wireless one would be great but not entirely necessary.

Any suggestions / recommendations?

Logitech...budget Cams ...but good.Any preference in Max Resolution?

This seems to be a good web cam. Check out the user reviews. Seems to work just fine with Skype.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104316I guess I'm not sure what I need to good quality. Lightening is always an issue. If the room is a bit dark it can really hamper quality.One thing I've LEARNED the hard way is that you can't judge a camera strictly by MP. Cameras with the same MP can deal with light very differently. There are ways to rate the light gathering capabilities of cameras, but good luck in finding those SPECS.

This may be an area where reviews are more important than specs and hard numbers.

After my Video Card OVERHEATED and had to be replaced I'm a little concerned about the other components. Before posting I READ a little about this topic but I sure would appreciate some expertise. I've attached the results.

I'm running;

MOBO - Intel Model D945GTP
CPU - Intel Pentium D CPU 2.80 GHz
RAM -3 GB
OS - WINDOWS XP Professional Service Pack 3 Media Edition

The PC is just idling.


Thank you

[Saving space, attachment deleted by admin]All LOOKS normal to me.Thank You. Much appreciated.

I ran across this machine.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5376869&CatId=1886

What does everyone think about it. To me it seems to have all the whisles and bells most people would need.

It really depends on what you do with your computer. Are you a hardcore gamer? That machine appears to be decent gaming machine.

Quote

To me it seems to have all the whisles and bells most people would need.

but regardless of which brand you select "iBUYPOWER" probably should not be one of those considered - in my opinion of course.

Part Magic shows it the same way 50Gb total drive capacity. I was wrong about the original size of the drive though it was 160Gb (once you TAKE into account that its 160,000,000,000 bytes [I think thats the right amount of zero's] then you might as well say 150Gb).

I don't see how make and model would help Commando but if it really matters to you then I will find out (the hdd is currently ~12 miles away from me). Quote from: Accessless on March 29, 2010, 04:31:15 AM

...I don't see how make and model would help Commando but if it really matters to you...

...I've never heard of a standard hard drive that requires drivers or software before (unless you count USB storage on Win98<).

truenorthThe End.
Thank you all who partcipated...


PATIO.

Does anyone know of a good motherboard tester for fault on the boardYou can get a PCI card that will plug into your motherboard(s) that will run DIAGNOSTICS. They usually have a SMALL two digit digital readout that will give a certain code for a certain PROBLEM. They COME with manual and you just look up what problem the code corresponds to.

Here's a video of ONE:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-V1sJD0TZkg&feature=relatedQuote from: ojas25 on February 19, 2010, 09:55:32 PM

Does anyone know of a good motherboard tester for fault on the board

I currently have two EVGA GeForce GTS 250 1GB DDR3 256-bit 756MHz PCI-E 2.0 DirectX 10 Video Card - 01G-P3-1155-TR. I want to add a third but cannot locate one. The only ONES I can locate are either 738 clock SPEED or 771. Which one would be better, or does it not matter?What's the make/model of the motherboard your adding the card to?

I'd imagine that if the card you want to add is not going to be used in a SLI/cross fire setup it wouldn't matter, and the higher 771 MHz card would be better..The MB is an EVGA 790I ultra ands it will be in sli with the other twohate to pop your balloon, but there are only two cards supported by your board for a three-way set up: NVIDIA GeForce 8800 Ultra & NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTX.

Given the two cards you already have, if you added another card is would not be able to utilize the 3-way setup capability of the board.









Quote from: EEVIAC on February 14, 2010, 05:21:47 PM

hate to pop your balloon, but there are only two cards supported by your board for a three-way set up: NVIDIA GeForce 8800 Ultra & NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTX.

Given the two cards you already have, if you added another card is would not be able to utilize the 3-way setup capability of the board.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sorry bubble not popped, this is an answer from EVGA>



Thank you for contacting the EVGA Customer Service Team.
My name is Dave Biel and I will be answering your question today. Please do not reply to this email, submit any follow up questions here
Question (2/14/2010 1:23:59 PM): I currently have two EVGA GeForce GTS 250 1GB DDR3 256-bit 756MHz PCI-E 2.0 DirectX 10 Video Card - 01G-P3-1155-TR. I want to add a third but cannot locate one. The only ones I can locate are either 738 clock speed or 771. Which one would be better, or does it not matter?
Answered By Dave B (2/14/2010 1:30:31 PM): Hello,
I would advise in this case, the 771mhz edition, and to install it in the primary slot, you can also run the 738, they would all be compatible as long as they are 250's and have the same memory volume.

I would contact EVGA again, and ask if your board only supports the 8800's in 3 way SLI. They aren't gonna answer a question you haven't asked about. All customer service support is this way. They would let you put 10 cards in there if it supported it. But would they bother telling you that only one card was compatible with this setup? Probably not. Unless you specifically asked about it.

As its name implies, EVGA nForce 790i Ultra SLI motherboard is based on the latest high-end chipset from nVidia for the INTEL platform. What is new on nForce 790i compared to its predecessor, 780i, is the support for DDR3 memories and PCI Express 2.0 support generated by the chipset itself – nForce 780i was in fact an nForce 680i with an additional nForce 200 bridge chip making the conversion between PCI Express 1.0 and PCI Express 2.0. Both chipsets support 3-way SLI mode, which allows three GeForce 8800 GTX’s or three GeForce 8800 Ultras to be connected together, and Quad SLI, allowing two GeForce 9800 GX2’s to be connected together and enjoining four GPU’s, as each GX2 is powered by two GPUs. Two of its three PCI Express x16 slots are PCI Express 2.0 and this motherboard has also two Firewire ports, optical SPDIF output and more.

I still have the box for my 780i, and here is what it says:

NVIDIA SLI Technology: Two SLI-Ready GeForce based Graphics Cards. (same card)

Just out of curiosity, have you looked around for, or tried any of the nVIDIA Forceware drivers? I know that there is support for 2-way without the card being exactly the same. Only requirement, I think, is that the GPUs need to be from the same family... Forceware v81.85 may be up your ally if your looking for a cheaper replacement at some point..

There may be support for three way setup also, if the cards are not exactly the same, given the same circumstances..

helllo all p4 1.9 2g ram xp pro all updates did ONLINE speed test shows like 3200 dwn load spd but my internet is ssoo slow my ether card is OLD updated to latest 05 now gone no longer EXITS so my q is will a new ether card speed me up ? what about USB ether yea no 10/100 so with fast internet now would a new card help ?Quote from: rascal12 on February 21, 2010, 06:25:34 PM

...so my q is will a new ether card speed me up ?what about usb ether yea no 10/100 so with fast internet now would a new card help ?

I just bought a new HP officejet 6000 printer and installed it. I have a Dell Dimension desktop computer with DSL internet and plenty of memory (at least I think it is sufficient for me) Ever since I added the new printer, my Microsoft Word program barely works. I get into it, and it takes literally 5-7 seconds for each character I try and type, and it freezes up with the little hourglass icon every few minutes. When I exit Word, I get that pop up box that says something about encountering and error and the program has to close, etc....Same with Powerpoint, can HARDLY use it at all. My internet is also much slower since adding this printer. I removed the other printer and driver, etc...One thing I think might be wrong is that when I was installing the software that came with the printer, it didn't completely finish the install. There were HP updates that it froze up in the MIDDLE of, and after about 3 hours of just leaving it be to see if it would finish, I exited out of it. However the printer had already started working fine on it's own, so I wasn't sure if I should do anything there?? The printer works great, absolutely no problems with it at all, but something went wrong somewhere, because my Word and internet are really slow and not running properly now. Please help! Thanks!This might be due to the HP Printer drivers registry work and the fonts. I suggest uninstalling the drivers. If that solves the speed issue, find the latest drivers online for the printer and installing them. This will save all the install, update, install, update, etc, which can lead to ERRORS...

HP Officejet 6000 Wireless Printer - E609n
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareList?os=228&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&product=3866949

I did a quick search for you. If this isn't the correct one, E609n wireless version, then just click '(Not your product?)' on the right side and start the search again. You can either just download the basic drivers or the full features (i think the full features might be the issue?).Okay, then do I need to go back into my control panel and remove anything? I'm just downloading from the link you provided now, but have to leave for a while, so when it's done, if I need to uninstall anything, please let me know! Thanks a bunch for the help! Yes, you want to temporary disconnect the printer and go into the control panel > Add/Remove Programs and Features, find the current printer drivers and uninstall them. Then reboot the computer and check if that is actually your problem.

After that, find and grab the correct latest drivers from this offical website and install them. Pick either the basic or full featured version depending on what you want, however I suggest just trying the basic one for now. Finally reconnect the printer and it should update from the newest drivers.

This isn't the first time Microsoft Word has had a performance fit when incompletely updating other software, I believe it has also done the same with a old version of Adobe Reader v6. The entire office suite has a shared application area and also shared the same fonts, etc, which other applications might also use and can affect.Okay, something is wrong. I did the install, but I didn't remove anything first, so I think I just reinstalled what was already there. Under add/remove programs, there is only one item listed for the HP Officejet 6000, so it doesn't appear that the download added anything. However, when the download was finished, it said to extract something, so I clicked on yes, and it started, but then the box disappeared, so I have no idea if it finished extracting whatever it was doing. Also, I just tried to shut my computer down and it won't shut off. I did it 3 different times, twice trying to just restart, the final time trying to shut it down completely. NOTHING happens, it just sits there. Also, when I tried to remove another program in the add/remove programs screen, I was told that another installation is in progress. I keep getting this message at different times, but there's nothing being installed, no programs running, etc...at least that I can see. How do I find out what this is, what is trying to install? I hate this, I wish computers could be simple. Actually, I need to have more patience and learn, then it would be a bit EASIER, lol! Can you tell me what you think is happening and what I should do? Thanks so much!!Physically disconnect the printer from the computer/ do a system restore to an earlier date / reinstall the printer software [DO NOT] plug in the printer until it asks for it. Post back.

Alan <>< I think the earlier steps worked! I uninstalled and reinstalled the driver from the link in the first repsonse post. All seems to be working great now, knock on wood! Thanks very much for the help!! Rock on!

Alan <><

I've tried several different drives in my computer all of which are dual layer and for some reason it writes something physical on the disc but when i try to use them nothing is read. Ive installed all of the drivers and all of the burners are doing the same thing so it has to be with the computer. Does anybody have any idea what it could be? Thanks How many different drives have you tried? Do these drives work in other computers? What program are you using to write to the disks?i have 4 different drives MOSTLY sony and yes they've worked in all of the other computers they've been they even used to work in here but not anymore.oops and i am using imgburnHave you tried using a different program to write to the disks?

Are you trying to burn an image to a disk?

Is it any piece of data that cannot be written to the disks or is it only one certain file?

Are you using cdr, cdrw, or dvd+-r (rw)?

What OPERATING system?I am using, Windows 7 and Memorex DVD + R DL. I'm trying to burn dvd/iso files. It says that everything BURNS but when i go to use the disc nothing is read. And no i haven't tried another program because i don't know what other one would work well with what I'm trying to do and this has always worked for me in the past.If the burn is not finalised the DVD will not be read...every time it goes through finalizing disc and it says completed sucesfullyTry using a different program to burn the ISOs. Check this one out:

http://cdburnerxp.se/

or this one:
http://download.cnet.com/Active-ISO-Burner/3000-2646_4-10602452.htmlAlright thanks so MUCH i'll check it out tomorrow when i get home hopefully it works. I REALLY appreciate the help.

I am intending to buy an HP pavilion, MODEL p6267c-b in the next week or so (WHENEVER it gets back into the store!). I already own a computer, but it is a piece of crap. The monitor, however, is at most a year old, relatively BIG (20"?), and in fantastic shape. Worse comes to worse, I'll just sell it ONLINE, but I'd rather dual screen!

I'm wondering if it is POSSIBLE to dual screen with this computer's original monitor (HP 2509m 25") and my own, and if so, how? What will I need, accessory wise, and will I need to purchase additional hardware?

Thanks so much!

[/color]]http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11519733&whse=BC&Ne=4000000&eCat=BC|84&N=4001486&Mo=1340&No=3&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&cat=84&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDesc1&lang=en-US&Sp=C&topnav=Onboard graphics will not do it...
You will need an addon Vid card that has dual output ports....and once you start using dual monitor, you won't want to go back to single screen

Was recently given a brand new Dell keyboard (RT7D50). Since mine is starting to show some wear, I thought I would just plug this ONE in.

Didn't quite work out that way. My PC (running Windows XP Pro Service Pack 3) would not even boot up. I put the OLD one back on and booted up that way (screen resolution was all screwed up too). I attempted to do the switch after that but the PC just ignores the new keyboard when I try that (I SWEAR I even hear it *sniff* in an arrogant way). Running an AMD 64 X2 Dual Core 4800+ if that helps. 3.25 GB ram. Nvidia GeForce 8800 GT video card.I hope your not swapping keyboards while the PC is powered up...

At any rate keyboards aren't that expensive...it coulda been DOA.I did actually try to switch them after booting when the FIRST attempt didn't work. I was wondering if the keyboard was just bad out of the box (brand new). But the fact that installing it prevented the PC from booting up at all made me wonder if it was some other issue.Someone just told me it COULD be a BIOS problem...is that a possibility?PS2 or USB keyboard?

I bought a Samsung 22x DVD burner and I'm just wondering why its maximum speed in burning dvd's is only 16x. SUPPOSED to be 22x right?A burner drive will only burn at maximum speed if both these things are true: (1) the blank disc being used supports that speed (2) The DISK manufacturer's ID code for that type of disk is stored in the drive's firmware. If a disk is RATED for 22x but the burning software will only allow a lower speed then you can see if the drive manufacturer offers a newer firmware version that contains that disk ID and flashing software and if so flash the drive, but I personally do not recommend this unless you know exactly what you are doing. There is a risk of killing the drive. The difference in the time you have to wait between burning a DVD at 22x and burning it at 16x is very small.

A forum I found contained this remark

Quote

.it just ain't worth all the effort for tiny difference.

Thanks for the reply. Personally I really dont care if its 22x or 16x but I was just concerned that something may not be working right. I'm sure the firmware is updated since I checked the firmware version of the dvd with the most recent one in the Samsung website. Perhaps it was the burning application (Nero 9 Essentials) which came with the dvd burner that is reporting the slower speed.

I have an HP PSC 1210 all-in-one and I can't get a scan dialogue to open.

It is plugged in and powered on properly.
The USB is connected properly.
In the Devices and Printers dialogue box my scanner is showing up and has a green checkmark.
Print Spooler Service is running.
RPC Service is running.
Print and Fax features are enabled in the Programs and Features>>TURN WINDOWS Components On or Off window.
The software from HP.ca has been downloaded and installed.
I have restarted my computer.

Please help. It is extremely frustrating and HP REFUSES to discuss this issue with me unless they get paid.Go to Device Manager.
Right clik the printer and SELECT un-install/remove...
You will RECIEVE a warning message...ignore it.
Un-plug the printer.
Travel to Add/Remove programs and un-install the printer software.
Re-boot...leave the printer dis-connected.
Re-install the printer software...it will prompt you when to plug the printer in...
Re-boot and test.

Hi,

I received, as a gift for Xmas, a 10 inches HP laptop. The hard drive only has 8 GB on it though, and I'd be looking to upgrade it to something quite bigger. However, I have no clue if you can BUY such a hard drive separate from a brand new laptop and how to install it.

Thanks!What model # ? ?Thought about a USB external? truenorthI thought it was a HP Mini 1000 or 1010nr, but those have 1GB or RAM and a 160GB Hard Drive while mine only has 512MB of RAM and a 8GB HDD. Could this be because it was refdurbished?very strange in this day and age to see only an 8GB hdd! How about what i suggested?truenorthQuote from: truenorth on February 15, 2010, 01:31:22 PM

very strange in this day and age to see only an 8GB hdd! How about what i suggested?truenorth

I thought it was a HP Mini 1000 or 1010nr

Sorry for late reply!

What Salmon posted is EXACTLY what I have!

Thanks a lot for finding this, Salmon!

I could replace the hard drive or the SSD... What's the difference between the two?

Acer laptop, Windows XP OPERATING system:

Laptop will boot up in safe mode.

In normal mode...
After the Windows XP logo DISAPPEARS, when the cursor should appear, the screen goes black with faint vertical LINES. When I MOVE the mouse, one vertical line moves left and right across the screen.

If I reboot and start moving the mouse right after the XP logo disappears, the computer will boot up normally.

If I connect an external monitor, the computer will boot up normally, WITHOUT messing with the mouse at all. If I disconnect the external monitor after it boots, everything works okay.

Any Acer gurus out there who can help with this idiosyncrasy? What would cause this anomaly?Re-install all the Acer Drivers for that machine from their site...
Chipset drivers 1st...

Hey guys what's up. I searched google and loads of forums and can't find the answer.

I have this strange problem with our church's office printer.

During installation of konica minolta bizhub c353 Drivers, software finds my network attached printer, it locates it and shows me the IP address and port number.

After installation I try to print to the c353, and it does not print. No error's from win xp and when I open print Que windows and print same document again, I see it's added and then QUICKLY deleted from Que, I check the printer and it's not printed.

I tried restarting print spoiler service and no help, I pinged Te printer over cmd and I GOT replies with 0% packet loss.

I also tried prating from different computer on same network with same driver and it printed like a charm.

But here is what I also NOTICED, when add a printer from same manufacturer but differed model and use tcp/ip address to the c353 printer,. And I print a TEST page or a color document, it prints all black and white.

So what happens is when I use a differ en driver from same manufacturer the printer prints without color and I tried alot of models of printers and all printed black and white, but when I use original driver from konica minoltas site I can't print.

All network settings are correct on printer and computer.
I installed and reinstalled software and driver couple 100's times. And no luck.

Any help is greatly appreciated guys.. How many printers and what names appear in control panel "printers" and what if any are "default"? truenorth

My old Logitec keyboard / mouse combo gave up and I was convinced it was the bluetooth dongle. I purchased a new MK300 combo and went to SET it up but have found that when my dell PC powers up and goes into user selection page I cannot GET the new combo to connect/ operate to/ with the PC and therefore cannot select any user to get into a mode that I configure the combo. I have checked the new combo on my Dell inspiron laptop and the keyboard and mouse operate OK. I have also tried a WIRED mouse and keyboard on the PC and again I cannot get any pointer movement at the user selection STAGE . I'm at a loss to think how I can get the mouse to operate and thus allow me to get into operational mode .
The Dell PC is running XP 2005
The old combo has been disposed of so I cannot use it to get running.
Thanks in advance .Check BIOS for a setting that supports USB at boot. You may need to use a ps2 keyboard to get into the bios.Used a ps2 keyboard and managed to get into BIOS on start up .Unfortunatly when in BIOS and being offered options including safe Mode ,the arrow keys are not working and I therefore cannot scroll to any of these options and select!!!!!

I have two 500GB hard-drives. I have two questions.

1. Is it possible in principle to backup two RAID drives to a SINGLE 1TB drive?

2. Would it be possible to use a freeware backup APPLICATION such as Cobian for automated daily incremental BACKUPS of this nature?

I've turned off everything I can find in BIOS for wake events, but it still won't stay ASLEEP. I'm thinking some kind of LAN wake event, because it will sleep longer if all the other computers on the LAN are off, but it will wake up for seemingly anything like bumping the DESK (mouse vibration?) and one time even woke up when I unplugged the AC adaptor for the external speakers.

Got me baffled. Any ideas appreciated. Running Win7.No one had experience like this?Boo hoo hoo! Nobody is helping me! As I've said in other threads, neither Sleep nor Hibernate were ever truly perfected. They work fine on some systems and are problematical on others. Rather than sleep, have you tried setting the hd and display to power down after a defined period of inactivity?Quote from: Allan on March 30, 2010, 01:07:29 PM

As I've said in other threads, neither Sleep nor Hibernate were ever truly perfected. They work fine on some systems and are problematical on others. Rather than sleep, have you tried setting the hd and display to power down after a defined period of inactivity?

I have an Epson Stylus Photo EX that I bought in 1998 and it still works as well as when I first bought it!
Unfortunately, it's gotten very difficult to buy the PROPER Epson replacement ink cartridges, especially the color.
Is there any decent compatible brands that anyone out there would recommend?
And please, don't tell me to get another PRINTER. I will when I have absolutely no alternative.
Thank you all in advance.So, you don't feel you must have Epson brand cartridges? Is that right? Have you looked at some of the online sellers? I haven't used any online ink specialty sellers for a long time, so I won't recommend any specific ones. I just Googled for printer ink cartridge refills and, OBVIOUSLY, there are many online sellers. This one was at the top of the list: http://www.re-inks.com/ and I believe they have ink for your model printer.

What about regular retailers? Do you have Walmart, Staples, OfficeMax, etc., in your area? If local retailers don't carry ink for your printer, an online seller seems the best option.Walgreen's will refill existing cartridges for about $10.is this what you're looking for?

see this link, and it says website says
Quote

Epson Color Cartridge for Epson Stylus Photo, 700, 750 & EX Printers

Hi Allen,

Well I will try your Idea 1st and if it does not work then maybe I will try a cheap PCI Card.

Thank You for the QUICK Response

Have a Nice Day !

Sincerely,
Steven F. TrimarcoHi Allen,

Well I Installed a 3/2 drive and try installing the programs and at FIRST it seem to be working with the 1st program I installed which I was happy about, but trying the program a 2nd time I would once aging get a quick flashing black screen and revert back to the desktop.

So now I am going to dry to buy an old pci card and see if that works. All I know for right now they did work with the original video card until it failed.

If you come up with any suggestion please let me know or if you know support group for software issue that might be helpful as well.

Have a Good Day !

Sincerely,
Steven F. Trimarco
Hi Allen,

Well I had tried using the Windows XP compatibility Wizard and I had no success accept once the program worked but when I went back to try my granddaughter educational game it no longer worked.

This is driving me crazy why would work one MOMENT then not the next ? All I know they all worked before their video card failed and now with the new one it does not want to work. So I will try to get ANOTHER card and hopefully it will work better.

By the way the video card that I put in their computer was a Geforce 8400 GS and if anyone knows how to get this video card to work with these older programs I would appreciate anyone suggestions.

Sincerely,
Steven F. Trimarco

I was working in the computer area one night. Of four computers, I was using two, one had been shut down for the night, and the last had been left on, but was unused.

Suddenly the room was filled with a very loud noise. We are talking quite loud, almost like a fire alarm - uncomfortably loud to the ears. My first thought was an alarm on the UPS. I checked it, and it was fine. Then I thought maybe a fan bearing gone bad on one of the computers. I shut down the one not being used. NOTHING. So then in spite of losing work, I felt it urgent enough to immediately shut down the two computers I was using. Nothing. So my next thought was fans in the room. Shut them down - nothing. Then I thought maybe the lights. Nothing. So my final thing was to unplug the computer that was already shut off - Bingo!

What a surprise. I wasn't sure if the noise was from the computer or from the surge protector it was plugged into, so I ran an extension cord across the room. It ran fine about 3 days and then the noise came again, not quite as loud this time, but still loud.

So I am thinking power supply or motherboard. The frequency and texture of the sound is the same as the squeal you get from the computer when you disconnect the power and the electricity drains from the system, except that that sound is mildly soft, but it gives you an idea of the nature of the sound. So I'm thinking maybe the motherboard is alarming me about something, but why so loud? And why continuous and won't go off until unplugged? Or is this a kind of sound a bad power supply can make? This power supply is the one I recently put in my Soyo Dragon Ultra 400+.

Any input appreciated.No one had experience like this?I know power supplies will make squealing-like noises when they start to fail, due to the capacitors. Borrow a psu from one of the other computers to help rule out the computer's current psu. If that is not the problem, then I don't know. I don't know why a motherboard would scream bloody-murder, so to speak, if it was failing.

Have you checked the documentation of the board/computer, or checked online for similar occurrences with that model? Quote from: EEVIAC on March 26, 2010, 10:58:44 PM

I know power supplies will make squealing-like noises when they start to fail, due to the capacitors. Borrow a psu from one of the other computers to help rule out the computer's current psu. If that is not the problem, then I don't know. I don't know why a motherboard would scream bloody-murder, so to speak, if it was failing.

Have you checked the documentation of the board/computer, or checked online for similar occurrences with that model?

I didn't know they got out of it BTW...

Anyone have any luck in this area? It's an ATI Radeon x700 Pro

I know the ATI Catalyst Control Center has fan control for some cards, but it doesn't seem to have support for mine. I've looked around, but maybe someone can toss me a bone.

Does Riva TUNER work for ATI cards?


Speed Fan doesn't have gpu fan control, by any chance, does it ? ? I've used it a lot for normal system FANS but not vid. card fans.



Found this:

Quote

In addition to complete NVIDIA hardware support, RivaTuner also provides limited support for display adapters based UPON ATI RADEON 8500 and newer ATI graphics processors. All RivaTuner's features besides driver-level tuning options are also AVAILABLE on supported ATI hardware. RivaTuner will help you to change all undocumented registry entries.

In the mean time, you each get a shinny star badge

I have a custom built PC with an MSI X38 Platinum MB. It has worked great for the past 4 years up until recently. Lately my USB ports shut off randomly while I'm using my PC. My lighted keyboard and mouse suddenly go dark and quit responding. I can be steaming video from my PC to my PS3 and that shuts down as well. I can leave my PC IDLE and it'll work a few hours later, other times I go to grab a beer or something and when I come back the keyboard/mouse don't work. I'm forced to do a hard boot because none of the peripherals work to shutdown properly. It also happens while I'm typing or surfing the WEB. It has to be a MB issue, but I don't see how this PROBLEM can suddenly appear after years of normal use. I searched MSI's website for BIOS updates but they never work. There is one available but I use their online BIOS flash utility and I get an error and have to restore a previous BIOS version. I'm not even sure the updated BIOS is needed because it seems to be a simple upgrade for larger HDDs. I'm stumped and I'm about ready to buy a new MB just to solve this issue. I don't think it has anything to do with Windows. I'm using XP and did a fresh install on a new HDD because my old drive was getting too old for comfort. The problem still exists so I don't think it's some sort software CONFLICT. Control Panel/System/Device Manager/USB Hubs/Power Management...turn off Let Windows Turn This Off to Save Power...
Do this for all Hubs...
Stupidly enough this is the default Windows setting...I've done that in the past and the problem still exists. I will double check to make sure I didn't miss any, though.

*EDIT*
All of the hubs have that option turned off, I appreciate the IDEA, though. I've Googled a few times and can't find anything related to this problem. Maybe my MB is bad and has to be replaced. Make sure that you aren't using any of the sleep or hibernate functions. They can be very problematic on a desktop.I have all the standby/hibernate settings turned off, except for my monitor.

My sims 3 game has some serious SCREEN TEARING. I turned on the ATI v-sync, and to no avail, the game experiences really bad tearing. No other game I play has screen tearing and I was wondering what is making it occur.. EA didn't inlcude an INGAME v-sync, but I'm sure not every game has as bad of tearing as I do.

Any solutions? Hardware, software, etc. Don't you already have a rather lengthy THREAD on this very topic?He sure does.Topic Closed.
Please SEE your other for replies.

My ATI Radeon™ HD 4870 is electronically underpowered b/c my pc only has 450 watts, while it's recommended at 550. I'd open up games like Sims 3, and I always played on the highest of high settings for that game, and until recently, I decided to alter the factory settings on my graphics card. I set the card settings all the way up, and when I go in game, the trees and hair are glowing green boxes. If I was to buy a better power supply, would this issue go away? Also, what are some symptoms to know about a failing graphics card?


PC Specs: http://www.slashgear.com/gateway-fx6800-01e-review-intel-core-i7-nehalem-powered-gaming-rig-0221147/ Read the bottom comment.lol u know my suggestion... luck with this.According to this, using your card at it's max. settings will draw 160 watts from the PSU...

If you don't want to listen to the technical recommendations you should at least use a power supply calculator to figure out just how much power your computer really needs.. A power supply calculator would be more effective because it will take into consideration ALL COMPONENTS in your computer...

When you purchase a PSU, pay attention to the 12 volt rail and how many amps. are available on that rail, because that is the rail your graphics card will use. If you card is drawing 160 watts (at max. settings), @ 12 volts, would draw 13 Amps from the 12v rail. You new PSU must include 13 available amps for the vid. card + amperage available for the other components that use the 12 volt rail.. Such as the CPU, hard drive moters, fans, optical drive moters..

Based on the information you've given, I'd say that you're overdrawing your supply, and the card is fine..

You might TRY downloading some diagnostics software for the card, from the manufacturer to test the card, or plug it into another computer to see what kind of performance you get.. So if I buy a 600-750 watt psu, I will be able to have the highest graphic settings? *Sweet* I'm planning on getting a better psu because it's my birthday in a month. Oh btw, what could be a reason games won't work unless I rrun them from an FPS limiter?Quote from: PChelpp on February 19, 2010, 07:43:42 PM

Oh btw, what could be a reason games won't work unless I rrun them from an FPS limiter?

I just looked up the specs for his card.
He should get a new PSU.

I am hopefully getting a new PSU soon, but would the PSU that you linked to in my other post still be fine even though it's only 6-pin, rather than the 8-pin?

The only thing I'm worried about is buying a psu and having it not be the problem. I would have to wait or save up money to buy a graphics card.

Which one: The Graphics or Power supply?
Well, I was playing a pc game, and I TUNED the settings on my graphics card, and wen into my game to find the hair and trees to be glowing green boxes. I changed the in-game settings to medium and it WENT away. I also SET the card settings to default. I was wondering what's the problem: The power supply or the graphics card itself.

itself: http://www.slashgear.com/gateway-fx6800-01e-review-intel-core-i7-nehalem-powered-gaming-rig-0221147/
One review said that the graphics card was under-electrically powered, so that WOULD be a reason why. Would I have to buy a new card, or buy a larger power supply to get it working again? Thanks



OH BTW: The PC has a 4 pin power supply, is it possible to install an 8 pin power supply? ( Such as this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153106&nm_mc=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r&cm_mmc=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r-_-Power+Supplies-_-Thermaltake-_-17153106)I would say the 4850 is the culprit, but that might depend on the PSU that is currently in you PC. 450W, as stated, is barely enough to power everything in your system. And on top of that it doesn't even have the correct 8 pin connector. This statement is based on the owner review. It says the motherboard needs a 8 pin connector, and the PSU only provides a 4 pin.

Doesn't your 4850 need a 6 pin PCI Express power connection from the PSU? If so, that PSU might not work. The 8 pin is there on that PSU, but you still need the 6 pin PCI Express connection. Which shouldn't be hard to find on a new, quality PSU.Ok thanks could you help a novice out by giving a link to a sturdy psu that would run my card. ALSO, if I bought a psu able to run everything, would my card continue to work? QUOTE from: PChelpp on February 17, 2010, 07:44:34 PM

Ok thanks could you help a novice out by giving a link to a sturdy psu that would run my card. ALSO, if I bought a psu able to run everything, would my card continue to work?

Hello. So my Dell dimension 4600 just lost mointor/video signal one day. All the fans, drives and CPU were still workin away. I figured ok great my video card is blown(in my case the MB). So I install a new MB. Still no video or MONITOR signal....I have checked the diagnostic lights on the back and none of them are lite. I have TESTED the power supply - seems FINE. I have unplugged everything other than the CPU, main and second power to MB. I am getting no error beeps. I am so lost here!! I need some help please!! ThanxI would have tried another monitor before buying another board.

Try hooking up a different monitor to the computer. If that doesn't work try another monitor cable.

If you have no other monitor, try hooking up your current monitor to another computer. If it works then it means there's something going on with your computer. If not, then the problem is most likely that your monitor is bad.I AGREE - sounds like the cables / connection. And of course trying a different DISPLAY would have been my first test also.

I have some serious page tearing, and it is getting rather annoying..how can I fix this? :report:

Here are my system specs: HTTP://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&safe=off&q=gateway+fx6800&cid=13314886346559392839&sa=title&os=tech-specs

What COMPONENT should I upgrade to get rid of the screen tearing...BY THE WAY, if I try to set my graphic cards setting all the way, the game's shrubbery turns to this:



What component should I upgrade to be capable of ramping the gpu settings? Thank you for all the assist :!:Please explain what "page tearing" means

Alan <>< http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screen_tearing


It happens when I move too quickly, and it gets rather annoying Send your vid card back under Warranty...Are you sure that it isn't the psu? And how would I send my gpu back under warranty? (Where can I find it)You go to the Company website of the card that made it and register it in your name and they'll let you know what to do after that. or to the store you purchased it at. I don't think that those warranties apply because I bought a GatewayFX system with the components already in there (I bought it from Newegg) so I would get my warranty from there.. HOWEVER, I have another question..

Does the warranty come with the pc, or did I have to buy one? The PC and all components should be under warranty...
I believe newegg carries 1 Year on pre-built PC's.Quote from: PChelpp on March 28, 2010, 05:58:18 PM

I have some serious page tearing, and it is getting rather annoying..how can I fix this? :report:

Here are my system specs: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&safe=off&q=gateway+fx6800&cid=13314886346559392839&sa=title&os=tech-specs

What component should I upgrade to get rid of the screen tearing...BY THE WAY, if I try to set my graphic cards setting all the way, the game's shrubbery turns to this:

my 2nd BUILD has this dilemma, most of the time if my new build which is under observation for almost a MONTH now is continuously open for long hours, it suddenly stops and a bluish color comes out on its screen. with a message that there is a conflict hardware. components in my new build are:

motherboard - gamers choice
processor - intel pentium dual core 1.8 ghz 800 fsb
memory - ddr2 533 mhz
dvd drive - 18x super multi LG
hdd - SATA 80gb Western digital

is the problem due to its hardwares? or on the softwares installed?
tnx a lot...

gross_earnings


Version of Windows?
Have you checked the temperatures for the CPU and CHIPSET?
Is the screen shot below similar to the screen you get when the machine crashes? (It is usually referred to as a Blue Screen of Death)

If yes, we need to know the STOP code and any filenames mentioned on the blue screen you get.

Btw why are you posting this in Computer Viruses and Spyware if you believe it is a hardware conflict?so sorry sir, i thought was in the correct forum topic when i post my thread,i overlooked it.sure wont make this error again,anyhow tnx for the quick REPLY...

gross_earnings philippines

Hi, my computer will not boot up, when I turn it on the fans are on,the motherboard LIGHT is on, the cd/dvd is on, the mouse is on, there is no video signal, no front panel lights and no keyboard, these components work on other sytems and vice versa, also when i hit the power button the computer will not shut off.If you hold in the power button for four or five seconds, will the computer shut off?

Is this a new build, or did you have the computer a while, only to have this just start happening?No ,holding the button for a few seconds does not help, the computer is almost 2 years old.A lot more info on the components involved and how you have ASSEMBLED them along with the OS involved and what happened prior to this and someone will be along shortly...The computer is no name with a Intel Pentium 4 processor, a Seagate barracuda sata hard drive, windows xp os, lg cd/dvd rw, 2 gb memory, 420watt power supply which I did a voltage check on, an Inno video card. the computer may be damaged from a recent move, even with careful packing and handling. I can ACCEPT damage but I am trying to narrow down what rather than swapping out components I DONT have. I have other mice, keyboards, monitors but my other computers are AMD AND THE HARD DRIVES ARE IDE rather than sata. The computer is two years old and I have had no problems. The mother BOARD is Intel Essential Series 775 socket atx form.I would strip it to the minimum then and add one component at a time to see who is the culprit...
CPU
Mouse / keyboard
1 stick of RAM
Vid card
Monitor

My first suspect though is the PSU...see if you can borrow another one of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there to see...Thanks, I will try those swaps and let you know the results soon.You're Welcome...we'll be here.

I right click on my pc and click PROPERTIES and i get the system specs...
Exactly as shown....
Intel(R)
Pentium(R) 4 CPU 2.40Ghz
1.80 Ghz, 384 MB of Ram

Now my question is.... is my processor 2.40ghz or 1.80ghz?that is a good question. i have the same thing.

Intel Core 2 Duo CPU
E6850 @ 3.0GHz
3.45GHz, 3.25GB of RAM

now what i do KNOW is that the E6850 is native @ 3.0 GHz. the 3.45Ghz may be the actual speed of the CPU, because mine is overclocked to 3.45GHz. now if that MEANS your CPU is underclocked, i dont know.

When I look at a MOTHERBOARD specs it tells me everything that is on the Motherboard.
What does it meen when it says PCI Exspress 16 X??
I know that PCI Express 16 X is 2. Gbps but what does the 16 X meen??

And for Q/A 2.
I have a DVD burnner and it says it is a 20 X speed again what is 20 X meenQuote

but what does the 16 X meen??

I have a DVD burnner and it says it is a 20 X speed again what is 20 X meen

Quote

I have a DVD burnner and it says it is a 20 X speed again what is 20 X meen

the speed at which the disk spins.

its booting from the wrong HDD drive or the cd drive.

can u get into the boot up menu?

f8?

disabel primary and secondary and others then select the hard drive with your OS on it and ONLY that one.

Save and reset. (f10?)

If all else fails flash ur BIOS **(WILL VOID UR PROCESSOR AND MBOARD WARRANTY)**

if that fails take out the BATTERY on ur motherboard and leave it out.

Unplug the power b4 and press and hold ur power button wen the power is pulled out. (it wont do ANYTHING noticable) but you have removed all static electricity for ur case and components. now put ur power in boot up and with 1 drive selected it should boot up ok.Why would you suggest FLASHING a BIOS for an OS problem ? ?
This is not the first time your advice has been borderline...

The HARDWARE has changed by putting in a new CPU.
Every version of Windows since Win2K is tied to the hardware it's installed on and will pitch a fit on major changes...you can't simply swap a MBoard or CPU and expect the system to boot properly.

Repair Install of XP may work for you...i suggest reading it thru to get FAMILIAR with the procedure and printing out a reference copy before you start.
You will need an XP CD for this.

Are you using front panel usb ports because sometimes those don't supply as much power as the ones in the back of the computer. It's not the USB ports...
2 devices on 2 DIFFERENT machines are not charging.Oh.... SrryQuote from: Tyro Prate on April 07, 2008, 10:05:56 AM

I was just at my parents' house this WEEKEND and tried to charge my BLACKBERRY on their Dell, and the power supply was too low on it also. I had FORMATTED their HD and reinstalled windows a few months ago, same as mine.

I have Motherboar that has a Intel Pentium D 930 3.0 GHZ Dual CORE 64 BIT C.P.U support.

In my system properties it says I have a Pentium D 930 3.0 GHz is the 930 the Pin count you know the Socket type??


Pentium D 930 is the model of processor.

This model processor is a socket 775.


Is your computer a custom build or a brand name unit?

What is your PLAN exactly?

I want the best pc for my money. I mainly use my computer for ebay. When on ebay, it is not uncommon for me to have 20+ tabs open and a couple other windows of whatever(photoshop, more ebay, limewire). If I do play a game it's nothing graphics intensive(starcraft, command and conquer). I also like to watch movies on my computer. I've been shopping and i'm looking at the asus p5e3 premium motherboard, e8500 processor, 4gb ddr3 ram, 8800 ultra graphics, antec 900 case, a 550w modular power supply, a couple raptor drives, and whatever else. Is this overkill? What is the best hardware I can get to fit my needs? (maybe in the 500 range vs. the 1000+ i'm looking at)

Btw, I'm currently running xp home sp2 on a dell dimension 4550 w/ a P4 2.0 processor, 2gb ram, a 500 & a 60gb IDE drive, and a radeon 9500 pro @ 128mb. Furthermore I don't know about or know if I care about overclocking and sli(just for gamers?)What you have at the minute is more than sufficient for your needs.
The build you specc'd out there is ENTIRELY overkill for most and is a complete waste of money.Quote from: Calum on April 07, 2008, 09:27:49 AM

What you have at the minute is more than sufficient for your needs.
The build you specc'd out there is entirely overkill for most and is a complete waste of money.

hi guys!

i was wondering if you could give me some idea if i could USE a 80gb on an old computer with 450mghz, 256 mb ram and 64 mb video card?Depending on the OS any HDD should be recognised on any machine...im usings windows XP sp1 and after installation gonna download sp2 in microsoft..ive already bought a 80gb hdd but when i try to auto detect the hdd in the bios it takes time and nothing comes out.Many new HDD's are not formatted from the factory...it needs to be formatted before Windows will recognise it.
This can be done with the utility CD that SHIPPED with the drive.
If you didn't get one it's AVAILABLE at the Manuf. website.
If the BIOS isn't seeing the drive it is jumpered incorrectly.ive removed my old hdd cause its already damage, and ive also set the jumper of the new drive to primary setting and when i try to auto detect it i wont show up and takes time..it doesnt matter if its not formatted yet i will gonna format it if it will be detected. no utility cd has been given to me.If it's the only HDD hooked up and jumpered to master and connected at the end of the IDE ribbon cable and the BIOS has trouble detecting it you may in fact have a bad drive...i've seen it before brand new out of the box.Check your bios again! if it does'nt show up, check your cable, make sure it is seated in the mainboard properly and in the hard drive. You should be able to find the drive info in bios. If you can't find it there is a problem with the hard drive.This is an idea---->Here

What happens when you use ultimate boot CD ?-->Here

Hello everyone! First time on the forum, but it looks to be quite helpful, so I thought I would give it a shot.

I've got an emachines DESKTOP CPU

T2482
AMD Athlon XP 2400+
CD-RW
DVD
1.25 DDR (stuck in a GB)
128? MB NVIDIA card
80 GB Hard Drive (Ultra ATA 100)

It had gotten to the point of uselessness in the past, and I just put it in a closet and pecked away on my laptop. I started thinking about getting a new desktop, but SAID heck, let me try reformatting the emachine.

So, I stuck in a fresh XP SP2 and reformatted. All was going well and thing was acting like it was brand new. I was so excited, I stuck on a couple free security features (AVG, Spybot, etc.) and put on a version of MS Office Enterprise. Even had the thing on my wireless network.

Well,before I went to bed last night it said I had to restart it for the effect of all my changes to take PLACE. I'm really bad about installing several things at once or many functions and holding off on the restart until I feel like I am at a point that I can take a break...

Turned it off, went to bed, and hoped to crank it up and get some stuff done. It was not to be though. IT pulls up the eMachines logo, all the while MAKING this sound like it is cycling power ever 3 seconds, but its not. kind of a high pitched noise. Then something flashes for less than a second and it goes to a black screen with a blinking dash in the top left corner.

The sound stops and it stays like that until I tire of looking at it. And now, it goes through the same process when I put the XP disc in.

Any thoughts on what I did and what I can do?

Thanks in advance!As an update, not it is sounding more like "click-click, click-click, click- click, click-click" then makes the repowering noise. This occurs on a 4 second loop or so with the eMachines logo stuck on the screen.

Additionally, the sounds seems to be coming from the area of the hard drive, but maybe I am just hallucinating.

And I'm starting to think that when I was reformatting on the first occassion I heard a similar click from the same location, minus the "power cycling" noise.

Sorry for the newbie descriptions, but I don't know another way to convey the problems...Unfortunately that clik clik is what's known as the "clik of death" and it means your hard drive is failing...
The more you try to use it the further your data gets away from possible retrieval.
You'll need to replace the drive and re-install your OS and programs.

After doing this you can hook up the failing drive as a slave and see if you can get the data off of it...but as i said the more you use it like this the less chance of that working.Great... It was reliving its golden days for a minute though.

Thanks PATIO!

I'm waiting to chat to someone on the emachines site and i am sure they will tell me the same.

While I'm at it, I saw that you suggested to someone that they replace the PSU when trying to revitilize a stock emachine. I was thinking about doing that because I remember crashing the thing in the past for lack of power (maybe that's why they don't put a fan in the case haha).

Should I have a mininum wattage that I am looking for, assuming that I am only going to add a case fan to the current load?

Or, to do a 180, should I rip out and sell what I can and start anew from a barebones kit?

My Motherboard says it has one PCI EXPRESS 16X slot MAX 2 Gbps rate X4 mode

What does this meen I thought one direction was 40 Gbps and both ways are 80 Gbps what am I not GETTING or is my Motherboard telling me something els??It means that physically the slot have the form FACTOR of a x16 PCI-E slot but it only runs at x4 speed.