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I have a Maxtor internal HDD inside an enclosure. It powers on and begins to read but it sounds like it quits after a few SECONDS. the POWER still works, but my PC won't recognize it as a disk. It sees that there is a USB storage device hooked up but won't read the drive. it's as if the drive isn't there at all.

Any ideas??? i have lots of data on this HDD and would love to save it!

thank you for your help!

tinderWelcome to the CH forums.

Can't quite see if we're talking laptop/notebook/desktop/Win.3.1/Win.98/Win.ME/XP/Vista.

Please read this..

sorry about that.. i didn't include that info because i'm pretty sure it's not a system issue, but a hard drive issue.

the HDD does not work with either my pc or mac.. right now i'm trying to hook it up via USB to my macbook laptop (2.0ghz INTEL Core 2 Duo; 2.5GB RAM) running ONLY Windows Vista.. it also does not work when hooked up to my Dell dimension 4600 PC (Intel 2.6ghz; 2GB RAM) running Windows XP.

no error message occurs. i believe the hard drive just isn't being read at all. It's in an enclosure, so i've considered taking the HDD out of the enclosure and purchasing a USB to IDE adaptor, hooking it up directly to my laptop and seeing if that works...

any thoughts/help/opinions would be appreciated.. thank you!Check it out with the diagnostic tool available from the Seagate website here..

Good luck1. Which file system was the drive formatted with? Which operating system was the last one to successfully access and read the drive?

2. USB storage device
Quote from: tinderbox22 on March 31, 2008, 09:26:50 PM

It sees that there is a USB storage device hooked up but won't read the drive. it's as if the drive isn't there at all.

the storage device does show up under Windows XP and Vista disk mgmt. It knows it's a drive with 234GB capacity, but the drive name is different. it seems as if it's not reading the partition. Maybe it's not going past the first couple of blocks of data to get to the right partition. There is NO drive letter assigned, but the device is "Working properly." No error messages in disk mgmt. I believe the drive is in the NTFS format as it was done with an XP PC. The last computer to attempt to read the drive was also XP. I've also tried with Vista and OS-X.

The drive name now shows up as 7Y250PO USB Device instead of the name I assigned to it when I first started using it over a year ago. I am unable to assign a drive letter to it as that is not an option for me. I can't even see the partitions. Of course I'm using Vista now and don't currently have access to my XP machine. I will reference those flash drive instructions this morning and see if that works.

ok i just had a chance to do this. It's not showing up in Disk Management as a drive. In fact, when I goto device manager and click the properties for the drive, under the Volume tab - i click Populate - and nothing shows up. It says next to "status" = "Unreadable." Capacity = 0MB.

Help Please!! I purchased a new Acer desktop with Vista. I hooked up my old LCD MONITOR and it WORKED for about a week, then the screen went blank. I hooked the monitor back up to my old computer and it works fine, just wont work with the new computer. I bought another LCD monitor and hooked it up to the new Acer. It worked fine, and then about 3 days later it stopped (it works fine with my old computer). I hooked up my friends monitor and it worked fine (did not try it for extended days though). What would cause every monitor I hook up to only work for a few days? This is crazy because the monitors are all good on other computers. Any suggestions???!!1. LCD Monitor. Does anything at all INITIALLY display on the LCD monitors when you power up the Acer desktop? If so, what?

Have you tried starting Vista in "safe mode"? See here.

2. Acer Desktop. Model Number?

3. OPERATING System. Which version of Vista and what service pack if any?

I THOUGHT about that, but did not know.

It seems most business's ANYMORE look for ways to GET out of making ANYTHING good.

Its WORTH a shot though.

Thanks

Audio works fine with system SOUNDS, audio CD, online video ect., but I have no sound when I try playing a DVD movie I rented. I just installed a 'Sony DRU-840A' DVD-R/RW/RAM/CD and the video shows fine on either monitor listed in my sig, but no audio. I found the following statement when searching this board;
Quote

"DVD movies
Many of the new computers today come with their own DVD drive, which means you can watch any of your DVD movies on your computer. In addition, USERS who do not have their own DVD player for their TV can also connect their computer to their TV and watch the DVD movie on their TV (may require additional hardware).

Is it possible, to have 3 internal hard drives for a computer that uses just IDE. I currently have 2 hard drives. These are fitted as FOLLOWS. Primary Master/Primary Slave-Both HardDrives. I have my dvd drive on the Secondary Master. Now, will i be able to put ANOTHER hard drive on the secondary slave? Thanks!Yes, no problemThanks It will work but you may have issues with speed if you have a DVD drive and a hard drive on the same IDE channel, as the channel may slow down to the speed of the lowest device (the DVD drive).

Another option as well is adding a PCI/IDE card ...2 drives per CONNECTION on the card for a total of 4 more drives plus what you have.Open Question: If he stays with just the two IDE ports on motherboard, would it be better if the third hard drive is Secondary Master (SM), and the DVD is Secondary Slave (SS) so that the hard drive's controller controls the secondary IDE bus.

Let the feeding frenzy BEGIN...Concerning the speed issue, it doesn't matter which way round the hard drive and optical drive are arranged.

The IDE bus is controlled by the IDE controller hardware.

Which slows down to the level of the slowest device connected...the optical drive.everything happens that way. ANYTHING connected in a series or a "chain" runs as fast as the slowest guy.

I have the VIA Rhine II FAST ethernet adapter. My computer has crash and reloaded I think all the drivers etc for everything. Are broadband is hook by USB port and works fine. We bought a Netgear wireless to hook up to this. When I go step by step to the Netgear CD it wants me to hook the Netgear router by ethernet. I do that and it comes up can't conect to internet and the local Area conection icon stays with a red x, even after connecting to it. ?

I have seen this before with others who say they used a registry file to to find it. I don't like that idea a hole lot with out some support this is what I really need to do.

Any help would be great, My Hijack log is as follows.
Logfile of Trend Micro HijackThis v2.0.2
Scan saved at 13:51:07, on 09/04/2008
Platform: Windows XP SP2 (WinNT 5.01.2600)
MSIE: Internet Explorer v6.00 SP2 (6.00.2900.2180)
Boot mode: Normal

Running processes:
C:\WINDOWS\System32\smss.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\winlogon.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\services.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\lsass.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\svchost.exe
C:\WINDOWS\System32\svchost.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\spoolsv.exe
C:\PROGRA~1\Grisoft\AVG7\avgamsvr.exe
C:\PROGRA~1\Grisoft\AVG7\avgupsvc.exe
C:\PROGRA~1\Grisoft\AVG7\avgemc.exe
C:\Program Files\CyberLink\Shared Files\CLML_NTService\CLMLServer.exe
C:\Program Files\CyberLink\Shared Files\CLML_NTService\CLMLService.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\svchost.exe
C:\Program Files\Webroot\Spy Sweeper\SpySweeper.exe
C:\WINDOWS\Explorer.EXE
C:\Program Files\BroadJump\Client Foundation\CFD.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\carpserv.exe
C:\WINDOWS\SOUNDMAN.EXE
C:\WINDOWS\System32\spool\DRIVERS\W32X86\3\E_FATIADE.EXE
C:\PROGRA~1\Grisoft\AVG7\avgcc.exe
C:\Program Files\Windows Live\Family Safety\fssui.exe
C:\Program Files\Webroot\Spy Sweeper\SpySweeperUI.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\ctfmon.exe
C:\Program Files\NETGEAR\WG111v3\WG111v3.exe
C:\Program Files\VIA\RAID\raid_tool.exe
C:\PROGRA~1\Grisoft\AVG7\avgw.exe
C:\Program Files\Windows Live\Messenger\usnsvc.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\wuauclt.exe
C:\Program Files\Webroot\Spy Sweeper\SSU.EXE
C:\Program Files\Internet Explorer\iexplore.exe
C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft Shared\Windows Live\WLLoginProxy.exe
C:\Program Files\Internet Explorer\iexplore.exe
C:\Program Files\Trend Micro\HijackThis\HijackThis.exe

R1 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Default_Page_URL = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=69157
R1 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Default_Search_URL = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=54896
R1 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Search Page = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=54896
R0 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Start Page = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=69157
O2 - BHO: Windows Live OneCare Family Safety Browser Helper - {4f3ed5cd-0726-42a9-87f5-d13f3d2976ac} - C:\Program Files\Windows Live\Family Safety\fssbho.dll
O2 - BHO: (no name) - {7E853D72-626A-48EC-A868-BA8D5E23E045} - (no file)
O2 - BHO: Windows Live Sign-in Helper - {9030D464-4C02-4ABF-8ECC-5164760863C6} - C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft Shared\Windows Live\WindowsLiveLogin.dll
O2 - BHO: Windows Live Toolbar Helper - {BDBD1DAD-C946-4A17-ADC1-64B5B4FF55D0} - C:\Program Files\Windows Live Toolbar\msntb.dll
O2 - BHO: EpsonToolBandKicker Class - {E99421FB-68DD-40F0-B4AC-B7027CAE2F1A} - C:\Program Files\EPSON\EPSON Web-To-Page\EPSON Web-To-Page.dll
O3 - Toolbar: Windows Live Toolbar - {BDAD1DAD-C946-4A17-ADC1-64B5B4FF55D0} - C:\Program Files\Windows Live Toolbar\msntb.dll
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [BJCFD] "C:\Program Files\BroadJump\Client Foundation\CFD.exe"
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [CARPService] carpserv.exe
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [SoundMan] SOUNDMAN.EXE
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [EPSON Stylus DX4800 Series] "C:\WINDOWS\System32\spool\DRIVERS\W32X86\3\E_FATIADE.EXE" /P26 "EPSON Stylus DX4800 Series" /O6 "USB001" /M "Stylus DX4800"
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [KernelFaultCheck] C:\WINDOWS\system32\dumprep 0 -k
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [AVG7_CC] "C:\PROGRA~1\Grisoft\AVG7\avgcc.exe" /STARTUP
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [fssui] "C:\Program Files\Windows Live\Family Safety\fssui.exe" -autorun
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [SpySweeper] C:\Program Files\Webroot\Spy Sweeper\SpySweeperUI.exe /startintray
O4 - HKCU\..\Run: [CTFMON.EXE] C:\WINDOWS\system32\ctfmon.exe
O4 - HKCU\..\Run: [MsnMsgr] "C:\Program Files\Windows Live\Messenger\msnmsgr.exe" /background
O4 - HKUS\S-1-5-19\..\Run: [CTFMON.EXE] C:\WINDOWS\system32\CTFMON.EXE (User 'LOCAL SERVICE')
O4 - HKUS\S-1-5-19\..\Run: [AVG7_Run] C:\PROGRA~1\Grisoft\AVG7\avgw.exe /RUNONCE (User 'LOCAL SERVICE')
O4 - HKUS\S-1-5-20\..\Run: [CTFMON.EXE] C:\WINDOWS\system32\CTFMON.EXE (User 'NETWORK SERVICE')
O4 - HKUS\S-1-5-18\..\Run: [CTFMON.EXE] C:\WINDOWS\system32\CTFMON.EXE (User 'SYSTEM')
O4 - HKUS\.DEFAULT\..\Run: [CTFMON.EXE] C:\WINDOWS\system32\CTFMON.EXE (User 'Default user')
O4 - Global Startup: NETGEAR WG111v3 Smart Wizard.lnk = C:\Program Files\NETGEAR\WG111v3\WG111v3.exe
O4 - Global Startup: VIA RAID TOOL.lnk = C:\Program Files\VIA\RAID\raid_tool.exe
O8 - Extra context MENU item: &Windows Live Search - res://C:\Program Files\Windows Live Toolbar\msntb.dll/search.htm
O8 - Extra context menu item: Add to Windows &Live Favorites - http://favorites.live.com/quickadd.aspx
O9 - Extra button: Blog This - {219C3416-8CB2-491a-A3C7-D9FCDDC9D600} - C:\Program Files\Windows Live\Writer\WriterBrowserExtension.dll
O9 - Extra 'Tools' menuitem: &Blog This in Windows Live Writer - {219C3416-8CB2-491a-A3C7-D9FCDDC9D600} - C:\Program Files\Windows Live\Writer\WriterBrowserExtension.dll
O9 - Extra button: (no name) - {e2e2dd38-d088-4134-82b7-f2ba38496583} - C:\WINDOWS\Network Diagnostic\xpnetdiag.exe
O9 - Extra 'Tools' menuitem: @xpsp3res.dll,-20001 - {e2e2dd38-d088-4134-82b7-f2ba38496583} - C:\WINDOWS\Network Diagnostic\xpnetdiag.exe
O9 - Extra button: Messenger - {FB5F1910-F110-11d2-BB9E-00C04F795683} - C:\Program Files\Messenger\msmsgs.exe
O9 - Extra 'Tools' menuitem: Windows Messenger - {FB5F1910-F110-11d2-BB9E-00C04F795683} - C:\Program Files\Messenger\msmsgs.exe
O16 - DPF: {0742B9EF-8C83-41CA-BFBA-830A59E23533} (Microsoft Data Collection Control) - https://support.microsoft.com/OAS/ActiveX/MSDcode.cab
O16 - DPF: {0CFA086E-6336-4D95-B6AA-90F564E99631} (TNSClicker.Clicker) - http://www.shopandscan.com/TNSClicker.CAB
O16 - DPF: {48DD0448-9209-4F81-9F6D-D83562940134} (MySpace Uploader Control) - http://lads.myspace.com/upload/MySpaceUploader1006.cab
O16 - DPF: {4F1E5B1A-2A80-42CA-8532-2D05CB959537} (MSN Photo Upload Tool) - http://gfx1.hotmail.com/mail/w2/resources/MSNPUpld.cab
O16 - DPF: {56762DEC-6B0D-4AB4-A8AD-989993B5D08B} (OnlineScanner Control) - http://www.eset.eu/buxus/docs/OnlineScanner.cab
O16 - DPF: {5ED80217-570B-4DA9-BF44-BE107C0EC166} (Windows Live Safety Center Base Module) - http://cdn.scan.onecare.live.com/resource/download/scanner/wlscbase370.cab
O16 - DPF: {D27CDB6E-AE6D-11CF-96B8-444553540000} (Shockwave Flash Object) - http://fpdownload2.macromedia.com/get/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab
O23 - Service: AVG7 Alert Manager Server (Avg7Alrt) - GRISOFT, s.r.o. - C:\PROGRA~1\Grisoft\AVG7\avgamsvr.exe
O23 - Service: AVG7 Update Service (Avg7UpdSvc) - GRISOFT, s.r.o. - C:\PROGRA~1\Grisoft\AVG7\avgupsvc.exe
O23 - Service: AVG E-mail Scanner (AVGEMS) - GRISOFT, s.r.o. - C:\PROGRA~1\Grisoft\AVG7\avgemc.exe
O23 - Service: CyberLink Media Library Service - Cyberlink - C:\Program Files\CyberLink\Shared Files\CLML_NTService\CLMLServer.exe
O23 - Service: Symantec RemoteAssist - Symantec, Inc. - C:\Program Files\Common Files\Symantec Shared\Support Controls\ssrc.exe
O23 - Service: Webroot Spy Sweeper Engine (WebrootSpySweeperService) - Webroot Software, Inc. - C:\Program Files\Webroot\Spy Sweeper\SpySweeper.exe

--
End of file - 7162 bytes

my 2nd build has this dilemma, most of the time if my new build which is under observation for almost a month now is continuously open for long hours, it suddenly STOPS and a bluish color comes out on its screen. with a message that there is a conflict hardware. components in my new build are:

motherboard - gamers choice
processor - intel pentium dual core 1.8 ghz 800 fsb
memory - ddr2 533 mhz
dvd drive - 18x super multi LG
hdd - SATA 80gb Western digital

is the problem due to its hardwares? or on the softwares installed?
TNX a lot...

gross_earnings


so sorry for posting this on the wrong forum topic...regrets again however PLS. let me know the solution on how to get rid of it. tnx again to the group. tom i will post the screenshot ...No, your in the right place. I think it could be the on board video if your using it. There not really good for gaming purposes. If possible I would try a video card from your other machine seeing as this is your second build. I'm not aware of a MBoard manuf. called gamers choice...
Have you installed the MBoard drivers ?
After that all other drivers should be re-installed.

The blue screen ERROR message is important to the diagnostic procedures...write it down next time including all the numbers and post it here...Some Gigabyte boards call themselves "Gamer's choice".
So do about 5 other MBoard manufturers....but it doesn't tell us what board it is.help please from the group...actually my motherboard is a Gigabyte GA945GCM-S2L/S2C just branded as gamers choice...bluish color comes out after the screen crashes after playing media player for music for about 5 hours...i really need help from the group to get rid of this irritating and annoying problem.. tnx again

gross_earnings (philippines)


friends out there, its an on board video and so sorry again to say I wasnt able to take note clearly of the stop code on the messages when the screen crashes...but after restarting the computer it runs smoothly again. but the annoying problem does not stop.

gross_earnings

[recovering SPACE - attachment deleted by admin]Well even with my reading glasses i cannot see that message...can you post what it says ? ?

Hello everyone,

New to this forum, looking for help.

My problem is if I leave my computer alone for awhile (30-45min.), not touching it, I get a Stop screen error with the following numbers.

0x0000007E (0xC0000005, 0x804ECE73, 0xF78BEBBC, 0xF8BE8B8)

I also checked my event viewer and under every time I got the error, there's multiple events STATING

"An error was detected on device \Device\Harddisk0\D during a paging operation."

I have no idea what to do with this information or how to fix it at the moment so any help is appreciated.

Paging has to do, I believe, with what I think of as swapping, moving data from the disk drive to memory and BACK, in accordance with the needs of the system and the application(s) running.

How long have you had the problem? Was there some change to the system, i.e. new software installed, or anything to coincide with the problem?Hmm, I say I've had the problem about almost a week.

In the past week all I've done is to try to hook my 360 up to my computer with MEDIA Center but I couldn't do it for some reason.

I also tried to update my graphics card driver or somewhat, but it required for me to uninstall my old one and then re-try but I decided not to do it at that moment.

EDIT: Uh OH, I got the error again and when I turned on my computer, my firewall was off and I got this Anti Spyware Master thing running and whenever I turn on my original firewall I get a stop error message with

0x0000008E
0x9FA45824
0xC0000005
0x804ECE73
0x00000000

If I can't figure this out soon I might just reformat my computer with the system disk thing, WOULD that work?This is a hardware/driver issue...try re-installing all your drivers and doing a clean boot...Awesome, could you tell me how to re-install all my drivers? And what exactly do you mean by a clean boot?

Sorry I'm not the educated in the computer area.A clean boot is merely powering down completely and letting it sit a few minutes...
Did you recieve a CD labelled Drivers with this machine ? ?

I wanted to know if the A8N5X ASUS motherboard supports ddr2, I am not really sure.
Does anyone have any idea if it does or not?

Thanks in advanceIt does not.
http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?modelmenu=2&model=596&l1=3&l2=15&l3=207&l4=0
Quote

4 x184-pin DIMM, Max. 4 GB, DDR 400/333/266 SDRAM

WHEN I START MY PC AFTER 20 TO 25 SECONDS TIME MY PC RESTART AND I CHECK WITH
MY MOTHERBOARD WITH ONLY RAM THIS SAME PROBLEM A RISE I WANT TO FORMATE MY
PC SO HELP ME
MY CONFIGURATION:
P-4 2.4 GHZ,MERCURY PI-845 AGP-GLM
40GB HDD
wat do u mean by " I CHECK WITH
MY MOTHERBOARD WITH ONLY RAM THIS SAME PROBLEM A RISE " ??/

wat message u receive when the computer restarts?
at wat stage of booting did ur computer restart?
reply in brief..nothind msg is receive it just restart after 20 to 25 second and also check my ram its works PROPERLY

Our desktop computer is a custom built tower(built by an acquaintance no longer AVAILABLE to troubleshoot).It is exhibiting distortion on the screen in the form of red,orange and cyan line streaks and bands when images and text are displayed.
Our operating system is XP Pro version2002,cpu is pentium(R)3.2GHz,512MB RAM,152GB drive.
The monitor is a Princeton L1717 LCD.
The device mngr lists the display adapter as a NVIDIA RIVA TNT2 model64/model64Pro and video controllers as Legacy Video Capture Devices and Video Codecs.
I checked the monitor alignment and it SEEMS OK so I wonder if the display adapter is haywire or if I have some other problem.I am new at this kind of troubleshooting and could use some advise.

Dwight RDO you have Nvidia drivers that you can reinstall? Perhaps you can go to the Nvidia site to download and install updated drivers...thanks for the advice on reinstalling the display adapter driver.I will try asap.
Dwight R

Ok I go to try and burn a cd earlier today about maybe fourty five minutes ago as of this post, and NERO is not letting me it keeps saying that there is no CD in the DRIVE, bs I put a blank cd in the drive and even vista recognized it. Ok so It's not working I rebooted it a couple of times and gave the case a TAP. Now my computer won't boot at all! I get no BIOs screen/post screen like a normal m2n32sli deluxe boots I just get a blank screen. From what I can tell the keyboard doesn't FLASH any lights neither does the optical drive but I do hear my hdd's warring. Nothing appears on the screen.

My computer's stats are in my profile need anymore info just post.

Thank you in advanced.

EDIT:

Computer Stats:

Mobo M2N32 SLi deluxe wireless edition

2X8600gt
2X2048gb G.Skill Ram
OCZ PSU
AMD 6400+ BE OCed to 3.4ghz however I've reset the bios a few times in an effort to fix the computer so it's back to stock 3.2ghz.

Anyother info about my computer you may ask

EDIT(again):

I've already have tried pulloing my mobo out and running it on a piece of card board swapped ram out, used only one gfx card and one stick of ram and swamped both gfx's. I've reset my bios twice but removing the battery and jumper as instructed in my manual. And I have also DOUBLE checked my PSU connections.

I'm starting to theink it might be my mobo or cpu.

Update:

Tested my psu however it works fine on the other computer but i'm not sure if my psu is giving enough power.

Hello,
I have an e Machines 6415 that I am attempting to ressurect. It was in storage for about 6 monthes, I tried turning it on and got nothing. So, I put it back in storage for another few monthes and now I have it here and I reset the processor and added different hardware..( 1 dvd rom, diff h.d. etc;) ...My question is : Does anyone know where to find beep code definitions for emachines computers?? Ive easily found this information in the past for other computer boards (Dell, ABIT...).
The e Machines website truly sucks and that is being nice.
Any ideas are appreciated. Thankyou
DLoad install and run Everest Home (Free) and save a report as a text file...copy and Post the Computer Summary portion here and we'll be on our way...
By their history however the first thing i would be doing is buying a decent PSU for it.
Don't get a $20.00 special though or you will have more of the same...That is a cool little program. I tried it on my laptop. It's loaded with information. I am not able to boot up the eMachine computer to try it on that . I get as far as pushing the power button...fans start turning and lights go on ( but there's nobody home).....then the computer begins to beep ...long slow beeps. It doesn't put anything on the MONITOR so I don't know how far along it gets before the error happens. Beeps dont stop until I turn it back off..... They have Live Chat with tech on their web site. Did you try it?This is your motherboard - MS-7145:
http://www.impactcomputers.com/mbem103777ms.html
According to its maker - MSI:
http://www.msicomputer.com/support/bios_result.asp
RS480M-IL (MS-7145) comes with AMD processor, and AMI BIOS
AMI BIOS Beep Codes: http://www.bioscentral.com/beepcodes/amibeep.htmThere's a little sticker on (I guess) the bios chip that reads: Phoenix Bios D686Bios Phoenix 1998 280747240. So, do I have a Phoenix bios or an AMI bios? Or, are they one in the same? I have not called tech support from their website because I dont have any of the original hardware connected to this board. I believe the processor is the only original part Also, the beeps I RECEIVE arent described in any of those beepcodes from that website . ( Thanks for that site by the way , it will be useful in the future =) ) When I power on this machine it beeps long beeps with a pause in between . I counted 12 long beeps before turning it off at last attempt. I will continue my search....Have you looked--->HereNothing describes continuous long beeps Neither, Phoenix, or AMI lists ENDLESS loop in beep codes.
The only one is Award BIOS. It says, bad RAM.Your either gonna have to CHANGE to another keyboard,or
try different ram.

Is your keyboard plugged properly ? If you are using a USB
keyboard try the old timey PS/2.......

Thankyou , I will report back with the results

i use a epson tm-t88IV PRINTER i install it on pc it shows no any error and get ready
but when i print on it the printer moved and CUT the paper but not print any DOCUMENTS only blank PEPER comes from the printer
please help me

vipinder kumar
Check the manual, if you have, and see if you can cause the printer to run a self-test. See if the self-test produces any print on the page. Then you will know the printer itself is good.

a computer i just got doesn't display anything on the screen when i boot it up. its a Compaq presario sr1103wm when I turn it on the green light on the tower turns on and I can hear it, but the moniter shows nothing. so I took out the hard DRIVE and but it in another computer, at FIRST it just showed the windows logo then stopped..so then i restarted it and reformatted it..after that it worked in that computer..but still wouldn't show anything on the screen on the other...it doesn't BEEP or anything so i don't think its the ram...and it has a built in video CARD...the last owner told me it was a virus or something...any suggestions? Have you checked the monitor on another pc?

I just BUILT a NEW computer, Hooked up old hard drive to start copying files over to new hard drive. I got to a file that I had tried to set permissions for in the past but it did not seam to do anything when logged on as me, now TRYING to access the folder as a secondary hard drive it gives me the error,
Such and such folder is not accessible Access denied.
No place to put a password or anything, How do I get into this folder?

Thanks for any Help
Try this...

Good luckThanks That WORKED Great

lens........of ur DVD has..lost it power....!

Patio and SQUALL, all of your comments have been very helpful; thanks for TAKING the time to post. I will get started with the MemTest, but it could honestly be the weekend before I can get it completed. I will post as soon as I learn something new. Again, thanks so much for your input.As my ESTEEMED colleague would say "We'll LEAVE the Light On"....

what is the diffrence between brick-and-MORTAR store and click-and-mortar storeBrick and mortar = Best Buy Circuit City or any actual physical Computer store...
Clik and mortar = a cute name for an ONLINE store...how long has this been around? i have never heard of either brick and mortar store or click and mortar store.C'mmon, Homer. You're old enough...its kind of hard to estimate the age of a user because all anyone here has to base an age estimate on is the persons posts.

P.S. im 20 This is what I thought....old enough...ok well i have another question.

the question on my homework SAYS " In powerPoint, instead of using AutoContent Wizard or a template tp CREAT a NEW presentation, you can use a(n)________ to create an original set of slides.

Hi guys,

I've got a problem which is confusing the *censored* out of me.

I overclocked my PC about a year ago and it's been running stable for over a year, now it has suddenly stopped working. It crashed when I was using it and now it won't work again.

When switched on everything is getting power (fans turning, hard drives running, motherboard LIGHT on etc.) however the monitor remains blank and the PC doesn't beep to suggest that the POST has successfully completed.

I have tested the monitor and it works FINE on another PC.

I used a PCI debug card to attempt to diagnose the problem and when run it came up with a code 81, which according to the documentation, suggests a keyboard input error. When i'm booting the PC i have no devices attached to it and i'm beginning to think its the motherboard circuitry that's at fault.

Is it worth clearing the CMOS?

Also the same thing has just happened to me on another PC, after taking out and replacing the monitor cable whilst it was running it now has the same above symptoms. Is hot-swapping VGA cables dangerous?

The only thing the two PCs have in common is that they are both using LG monitors which show 'Analog power saving mode' when you switch them on and then turn themselves off.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!Here a few things I would try first, take out the RAM see if it dont beep, try the video card in another machine or replace it, usually at fault when this happensClearing the CMOS is worth a try at this point in time...
NOTE: Your overclock settings will not be retained.

Borrow or buy a PS2 keyboard also...everyone should have one

Hot swapping VGA cables is dangerous and could very well be the reason you now have no video.Thanks for your helpful comments.

I tried booting the PC without the video card in and still had no beeps.

I then tried booting the PC without the video card and the RAM and I had three short beeps [pause] then three more short beeps, i guess this just means no RAM.

If I had onboard video then I would have a way of determining whether or not it is the video card that's at fault.

I'm still not sure whether it could be the motherboard or not?

P.S. I wasn't aware of the risks of hot-swapping VGA cables, thanks for the tip!To determine if it is in fact the vid card install it in a working machine and install it's drivers...if it doesn't work in the 2nd machine i'm afraid it's dead but you'll know it's not the MBoard.For what it's worth:
Welcome to BIOS Central.Quote from: dahlarbear on April 08, 2008, 01:28:03 PM

For what it's worth:
Welcome to BIOS Central.

Quote from: dahlarbear on April 08, 2008, 01:28:03 PM

For what it's worth:
Welcome to BIOS Central.

And ? ? How are you convinced this is a BIOS issue ?

I just installed a AS Rock M266A. Running XP. It stays at searching for boot record from IDE-0... ok. I cannot get it to finish booting up? HELP?More info is needed here.
Computer specifications.
More details on the problem, including any error messages you get.
What have you done so far?
installed a new motherboard.. installed two ddr ram sticks... dvd, cdrw drives etc... have a 40GB hd running xp HOME.. intel celeron processor. i had the old board tested and it was no good and bought the AS Rock... i have checked the BIOS the boot pattern is as follows...
1/4 in floppy
cd/dvd
samsung 40 gb hd
disabled
I replaced to CMOS battery with a new one, checked all connections to the motherboard... PWR supply has been tested--its good
Don't know what to do now..... have not gotten any error messages so far.....Is the hard drive detected by the BIOS?
Have you reinstalled Windows after you replaced the motherboard?yes the hard drive is recognized in bios... the computer guy said all i would have to do is a repair not a reinstall of windows.... i have the drivers i need for the board but cant get windows to boot up to install them... i don't want to lose the software installed on my hard drive. You will need to reinstall Windows, but you should be able to do so without formatting the hdd by doing a repair install.
http://www.michaelstevenstech.com/XPrepairinstall.htmFor this task you should be booting to the XP CD and doing the repair install from there...
FOLLOW Deerparks excellent instructions he posted.
Read it thru completely to get familiar with the PROCEDURE and print out a copy for reference...

Ok, so I had a major issue with my pc. It wasn't booting, overcame that, now it's all a mess after repair/recovery and it's time for drasting measures). So I'm backing up data, and looking to do a full reinstall of XP on my pc. I have a 2ND pc at home, my wife's and that one is nearly identical to my own and exhibiting no issues. I'm putting the back'd up data on hers for now. I have a smaller drive that was connected to my previous old rig, that I had been saving for using as a windows home server for the two pc's, xbox, etc (never got around to it, and now I regret it!). There's data on that drive, too. Barring any questions I might have for getting the data off the main drive on my pc (pc #1 is mine, pc#2 is my wife's, pc#3 is the old rig that I was going to use for the home server, for reference hence forth) here's a few others I hope someone can help with:

First, here's my pc specs, and please note, I did build this but with a TON Of handholding. I'm still a newbie and there are some things I just need as much detail as possible with. For example, I don't know what a jumper is, and if you identify a cable or insert position, you will really need to explain details visually as much as possible or I won't get it. Thanks

AMD Athlon 64 FX-62 Windsor 2.8GHz Socket AM2 125W Dual-Core Processor Model ADAFX62CSBOX
ASUS M2N-SLI Deluxe AM2 NVIDIA nForce 570 SLI MCP ATX AMD Motherboard
SAMSUNG SpinPoint T Series HD400LJ 400GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
SONY 16X DVD±R DVD Burner With 5X DVD-RAM Write Black IDE Model DRU120C
EVGA 640-P2-N821-AR GeForce 8800GTS 640MB 320-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP
CORSAIR XMS2 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 675 (PC2 5400) Desktop Memory Model CM2X1024-5400C4


1) How to a check drive from pc #1 (the Samsung 400gb sata) so I can see if I need to replace it or not before I do a clean install? Ideally I'd like to do this prior to the setup below
2) How do I setup a two HDD system, with wiring and all (are there any detailed step by step guides, video or with pics?)? I have the drive from pc #1 and I want to add the old drive from pc #2 as a backup.
3) There's outdated data on drive from pc#3, do I need to wipe that clean, or will it be wiped clean when I do the fresh xp install. In this scenario, again, I plan to have two drives on my pc, the main one being that from pc#1, unless it needs to be replaced altogether. The backup drive (from pc#3) is going to mainly be for pics, work docs, etc, where drive #1 will be for the OS, games, other programs, but nothing perma that I can't just reinstall or that I won't care to lose if I need to do a full re-install again down the road (I hope not!!)

Thanks again!!! UPDATE - Ok, I've swap'd the drive from PC1 into PC 2, and I've backed up all data I wanted to keep. Now I want to check that drive (from PC1) to see if it's viable or not, before I put it back and reinstall xp.

How do I go about that? THXQuote

Now I want to check that drive (from PC1) to see if it's viable or not, before I put it back and reinstall xp.

How do I go about that? THX

Is it only the hard drive, and EXTERNAL storage or is there any other memory that is retained?Read about BIOS

Read about CMOS

There is a type of memory called CMOS, which has a battery backup on the motherboard / system board. It holds date and time settings, as well as system configuration settings selected in the BIOS.Don't you trust the answers ALREADY given Here ? ?

We're not here to steer you wrong Dave...I have limited knowledge mate and Patio is right but.. all your passwords from what I know are held in shadow files and are hard as *censored* to retrieve. Thats for a reason. A shadow file from my limited knowledge is a file which cannot be accessed without much difficulty. If you have a password and forget it you can't even retrieve that file because it's held on a shadow file. I may be wrong I'm no expert.there is no "shadow" file, unless you are referring to Vista's Volume shadow copy, but that only duplicates files- I'm not sure if it duplicates system files though.

Or- you might MEAN a file with the hidden and system attributes. But from what I understand passwords are stored in the registry in some way (obviously not plaintext).

Even in such a case, replacing the hard drive means such files are no longer existent.

In this case the OP has been assured multiple times that data stored in the CMOS does not contain sensitive data, but for some reason persists the issue.

I read up and passwords were supposed to be hidden in 'shadow files' I don't know the meaning of the word but It's like a file ATTACHED to to the main file that you can never see or access. Not trying to say your wrong bc but I did look into this. Not even the main file can look into the 'shadow file', does that make sense?? From what I have learnt it's nye on impossible to get passwords out of a drive.
you know what that might be, is alternate data streams. But I don't think passwords are stored there- although there is a LOT of stuff stored in alternate data streams. (the only way to access them is if you know their names).


Your right about the passwords- and doubly so since they are replacing the drive with a fresh one I already told him this in his first thread

Quote from: Me

davedat, you have been told repeatedly you have nothing to worry about.

In this case the OP has been assured multiple times that data stored in the CMOS does not contain sensitive data, but for some reason persists the issue.

The guilt of goat porn rears its ugly head again

I got the number I think? I put it in and its ASKING for a 10 digit num to anything before OCT 04 but the number I have is seven and says serial!What numbers are you talking about here ? ?
If the drive does not spin up it is dead...It works its a psu issue. I want to contact them since you guys obvesily cant aid me here. Not being rude just that its so old and I want it to work. The serial number The site ASKS for it or a SNID num whatever that is... IM LOST HERE HELP!!!!!!here's a surprise I dont have enough time to GET it all said, in the long run I removed the cd reader since its not needed and was there for some cause and the drive spun up. Thing is that the BIOS didnt see any thing of like 4 gb range. Got the old ones fire it up and got dos on it the other hd is dead may try my one maxtor and see but its clicking.Why you insist on resuscitating dead/dying hardware is beyond me....
And don't give me that line about how it's teaching you things because the same issues keep happening over and over....
This would indicate the learning process isn't progressing at all but at a standstill.What I just said that it works. The thing is that I had a 2 gb drive that I wanted to use which had worked in place of the orginal drive. I have a quantum that I was going to use but it was 4 gb and the bios wouldnt support it. I ended up useing one of the orginals after testing them saing that there failing but appearntly that isnt so true since Dos is on one of them.

My older Compaq tower had been running Win XP SP3 NORMALLY until today. Now, for no apparent reason, it turns itself completely off repeatedly. During or after following re-boot it may shut down again but at a different time. There are no OBVIOUS cooling restrictions. IMHO the hard DRIVE may be going BAD - any suggestions to test it will be appreciated (but remember it may power itself down at any time).

Thanx.
Bob
Palm Bay, FL You can try a hard drive health tool such as the one's from http://www.drivehealth.com/ or http://lifehacker.com/software/disk-recovery/download-of-the-day-part-ii-hdd-health-disk-monitor-156281.php.

Also, if you hear a clicking noise, that is a sign of drive failure. Also, make sure you get everything backed up ASAP.could also be the RAM or the PSU. Or the CPU. Lots of THINGS. Look in the Event Log to see if there are any clues.

If the existing CRT is replaced by an LCD monitor is a new video card needed ? If so, how is correct one determined ? Thanx

Bob
Palm Bay, FLNo new video card is needed. No, a new video card is not needed, as long as your new LCD monitor SUPPORTS the type of video connector from you existing onboard video or video card. So, if your computer has a VGA/D-Sub connector for a monitor, then you need to get a monitor that works with a VGA/D-Sub connector. If your computer has a DVI connector for a monitor, then you need to get a monitor that works with a DVI connector. Some LCD monitors have both VGA and DVI connectors/ports. Some video cards have both connectors.
The VGA connector is the fifteen pin connector which is usually blue in color. This is the type of connector which has been around for many years. The DVI connector is the newer type, and is usually white or off-white.Quote from: Aegis on April 08, 2009, 11:11:10 AM

Some video cards have both connectors.

Hello everyone,

I'm a student conducting a product study on the computer mouse. I wish to explore and find answers to the following questions:

- Why after the vast development in the computing industry the mouse idea has never changed?
- Has improvements in design & manufacturing forced any improvements in its design?
- Has technological push forced any improvements in its design?

I would be most grateful if anyone could help me answer these questions. any opinions are welcome

Thank you.

Wayne.

Quote from: silva on April 17, 2008, 05:23:54 AM

- Why after the vast development in the computing industry the mouse idea has never changed?
- Has improvements in design & manufacturing forced any improvements in its design?
- Has technological push forced any improvements in its design

Hello all,
So I downloaded Avast! to delete some viruses on my PC. Now my pc is not responding at all. No right clicks, no ctl-alt-del, no ICONS, NOTHING. I can't even get anything in safe mode!!! I am so afraid all of my info is gone. Can someone please help me???Did you TRY system restore disk???Yes. I tried to log in any way I can. And nothing is responding. I can't right click or anything! The only way I can see anything happening is if its PROMPT in. Can someone please help.Windows version?
Do you have Windows CD?No windows cd. I am just going to take it to a shop. Thanks everyone!

I have a new system that I use for video editing. Running XP, dual 24" ACER monitors, NVIDIA video card, 2 internal SATA HDD's at 500 GB each (I think..more or LESS). When I got it up and running about 2 months ago, everything was good. Both monitors acted independently, started up in a flash etc. I've used it for a couple of projects already no problem. Then about 2 weeks ago I couldn't get both monitors to start up..my control panel settings said I only had 1 monitor and the NVIDIA control panel would not let me set it to dual monitors. After clicking on all the settings and restarting, suddenly it saw both monitors, but after every start up, it would go BACK to single monitor status. So tonight I was in the settings trying to get it to recognize both and I restarted. The XP splash came on, then the screen went black as it normally does before the sign in screen, only this time, both monitors power indicator lights lit (I was very hopeful) and then it hung there...no icons, no error message, nothing. It isn't completely black, it's that backlit-black that tells you its thinking. The CPU stops making noises and I can see my mouse cursor on both screens, but when I click, it beeps. No keyboard commands work (CTL+ALT+DEL). I restarted 4 more times, same thing. I went into the boot menu and I had a Warning! System BOOT failure! Reload defaults and reload. Or something similar. So I did..I went into Setup and F5 for system defaults and restarted. Same thing. I don't have my boot set to anything other than the hard drives, no other errors or anything. I powered down everything down, unplugged it from all power sources and started again. Nothing. I am so frustrated. I spent a lot of $$ for components that I have never had problems with and I am normally pretty good at figuring things out. Is there anything that any of you can see that I am missing? Besides a steady income because I am at a standstill? Thanks in advance.Sounds to me like a reformat is in order. But before that go to http://www.ntfs.com/products.htm and you might get some data back. That or get a sata to usb 2.0 or sata to esata to get data to another computer.What is the manufacturer and model number of your motherboard (or computer if a "brand name")?

What operating system? Windows XP Home or Professional? Original, Service Pack 1 (SP1), SP2, SP3?

Try to access the "Windows Advanced Options Menu". Tap F8 about once per second or faster as you power up the system. If you get the menu, select "Last Known Good Configuration". This will attempt to LOAD the registry settings for your last successful "normal" login.

If "Last Known Good Configuation" doesn't get you into Windows, return to the Windows Advanced Options Menu and select "Safe Mode" to see if you can boot with minimal set of Windows drivers.

If either of those options work, come back and hopefully someone will KNOW where to go from there. A "System Restore" might be possible.

I have a desktop with XP and a laptop with Vista. I have them networked and I have a photosmart 7260 printer. When I first hooked it all up I was able to print from my laptop wirelessly. Now I can only print from my laptop if I plug in my printer. I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling and that hasn't helped. When you go to printers the printer says error in the status field.

Any IDEA what's going on or how to fix it? Try reinstalling the printer's drivers on your machine.

Do you know what the error is? Any error codes at all? What is the EXACT error message?I tried that. HP doesn't have drivers on their site for Vista. It said to plug in the printer and Windows would install them automatically. I did that and still says Error.

Error is all it says and in it's in the status field. When you click on control panel and then on printers you can see the printer there but when you run your mouse over it it says Printer Status: Error.I am aware that many old printers are not compatible for Vista, so that would be your problem. Incompatible drivers.

I'm not a Vista expert, so I'm not sure if there is a way around it. Someone else might though....Quote from: aces67 on April 07, 2009, 06:01:45 AM

HP doesn't have drivers on their site for Vista. It said to plug in the printer and Windows would install them automatically. I did that and still says Error.

I'm having trouble using my HP Scanjet 2400. In photo made it only copies 1/2 the photo.It's very slow. In scan to WORD, lamp tries to warm up, eventually says there's a fault. in straight scan mode it just does not work.
It's about 2 or 3 years old. I use Windows XP.
I've tried uninstalling and then uninstalling, no effect.
Is it terminal?
Can you provide more information? See here

It would be helpful to know the "exact" messages you see when the scan functions fail. Anything like these Error messages.

What is make/model number of computer if "brand NAME", otherwise make/model number of motherboard?

How MUCH physical memory does the computer have?

Are you using the latest software and/or drivers for the Scanjet? From MICROSOFT or HP?

Did the Scanjet 2400 ever work well on this computer and operating system?

What interface are you using and how/where is it connected to the computer? USB 1.1, USB 2.0, something else?

Are you using the interface cable that CAME with the Scanjet?

Is there a lot of other software loaded and/or running in memory while you're attempting these scan functions?

Do you have Internet Explorer 7 installed?

In an attempt to solve somebody elses issue (Harry 48 was looking for a jigsaw program) I BOOTED up my old thinkpad seeking the Visual Basic version 2 sample program, aptly named "JIGSAW".

First, I was greeted with the familar password prompt. So I started typing the password. oddly, the m key produced two password characters, and some of the other keys produced none. Not surprisingly it wouldn't allow me to start.

So I opened it up to discover the battery's little cloth puller-upper soaked in acid- (that was the only location where the leaked acid was) so I removed the battery. same keyboard issue. So I tried an external keyboard- success! I was able to enter the password, select the start mode, and then hang when it tried to load the mwave sound drivers.

No problem, I thought- I'll just skip the startup files. No luck, for some reason this threw up a "divide error"...

Attempting to boot from a bootable disc yielded non-system disk or disk error.

this laptop was started successfully about a month ago- and now it seems to have no end to issues. The main one obviously being something wrong with the keyboard.


Ahh- yes of course, I should be providing some information about the machine:

IBM Thinkpad 755CDV
75 Mhz Pentium, 8MB of RAM
1.6 GB Hard drive
PC-DOS 2000 and Windows 3.1

Since the battery has been useless since I got it I was essentially STORING it in there. it refused to charge anyway- and the AC adapter broke over a year and a half ago, leaving me to use it through my IBM DOCK I; which helps since I needed to use that to plug in the external keyboard.


Any advice as to what could be causing these seemingly random issues? Most troubling being the "divide error" when trying to skip startup files...
Quote

I opened it up to discover the battery's little cloth puller-upper soaked in acid

will an OPTERON PROCESSOR run in a mb designed for athlon as long as the sockets match?you will NEED to lookup the MOTHERBOARD specs on the manufacturers website to be sure.

My problem is; I'm not at all sure if the visible width and height ratio of my computer screen is correct. I have set the screen RESOLUTION at 800X600 pixels True color. The menu for my computer screen width and height settings has no 'default' option. Myself being a graphic designer, how do I ensure a particular image I see on the computer screen is in its original width and height ratio? Is there a software application that SETS this optimal ratio automatically? Any advice? Is this a desktop or LAPTOP computer? If a desktop, what make and model is your monitor? If a laptop, it's display is a "widescreen", right? And, if a laptop, what make and model?Quote from: soybean on April 05, 2009, 12:16:50 PM

Is this a desktop or laptop computer? If a desktop, what make and model is your monitor? If a laptop, it's display is a "widescreen", right? And, if a laptop, what make and model?

800 x 600 resolution is a normal and common resolution for a 15" monitor, a resolution which will display images in their correct proportions, the correct ratio between height and width. At 800 x 600 resolution, the "aspect ratio" is 1.33 (800/600). Any other resolution with the same aspect ratio, such as 1024 x 768, will maintain the correct proportions when viewed on your monitor.

I have a P-4 PC with CD, FDD & USB ports and Windows XP.

I have created two USER accounts viz an Administrative Account (Admin) and a Limited Account (User-1).

I want to disable the CD, FDD & USB ports by disabling these (under Hardware-> Device Manager) so that other USERS cannot access them. Some of the softwares like IIS, VB.NET etc. requires administrative privileges for running them. If I give administrative privileges to a Limited Account (User-1), the user may enable these devises. I don't want to happen this.

My question is -- How can I disable these devises so that general users cannot enable these disabled devises EVENTHOUGH the general user have administrative privileges to run softwares?http://support.microsoft.com/kb/555324

have anyone help me to solve the problem?
i ALREADY use SCC resetter 4.30 but cann't solve the problem.
sorry if my english poor
THANKS all
Can you please explain what the problem is your having. Has the printer STOPPED working? Thanks

After disconnecting the PC to do a cleaning when i reconnected EVERYTHING everything started ok but now when i left click on a icon to open a program it wont open i have to right click on the icon then ckick open to get the program to open. Running XP PRO.This will sound like a stupid question but I have to ask.. are you double clicking on the left button?? We need to hear the basics first.Its not a stupid question, yes double clicking on icon.Are your mouse buttons swapped by any chance?if the mouse buttons were swapped, the right mouse button wouldn't present the menu.

does the item become selected when you left click? does anything respond to left clicking?No responce when left clickingcan you try another mouse? COULD be a problem with the mouse.

or you could try that mouse on another PC.Sorry BC, had to go someware. Ill try that tommorrow & let you know.WELL BC the mouse works TODAY. Mysteryoh well, best not to ask too many questions!

What is the difference between regular ink and photo ink (eg cyan and photo cyan)?Lots. ONE printer can require a different ink than another printer.
Inks are made to meet the printer design REQUIREMENTS. The ink must dry on contact but stay FRESH in the cartridge. Not an easy TRICK with hi-speed inherit printers.
Here is some information that may help:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ink_cartridgeIt's more EXPENSIVE...

A few days ago my computer started acting really weird. It's always started very quickly but now it takes about ten minutes. My DESKTOP background will appear but the icons and taskbar take a few more minutes to load. When I check the CPU and memory usage the CPU is at 100% but the memory isn't anywhere NEAR being maxed out. Stats: Windows XP Professional, 1 gig memory, Pentium M Processor 1.8 Ghz. It's a laptop btw. The night before it started I fell asleep while surfing the net and when I woke up the fan was running but it was just on a random web page, I wasn't running a video or ANYTHING. I opened it up and checked the processor and it doesn't seem to be burned out or anything but I don't really know what to look for. Anyone have any ideas on troubleshooting so I can narrow down the problem? Oh yeah, sometimes when I move the computer it will just randomly shut off. Print these instructions out.

1. Download SUPERAntiSpyware Free for Home Users:
http://www.superantispyware.com/

* Double-click SUPERAntiSpyware.exe and use the default settings for installation.
* An icon will be created on your desktop. Double-click that icon to launch the program.
* If asked to update the program definitions, click "Yes". If not, update the definitions before scanning by selecting "Check for Updates". (If you encounter any problems while downloading the updates, manually download and unzip them from here: http://www.superantispyware.com/definitions.html.)
* Close SUPERAntiSpyware.

Restart computer in Safe Mode.
To enter Safe Mode, restart computer, and keep tapping F8 key, until menu appears; select Safe Mode; you'll see "Safe Mode" in all FOUR corners of your screen

* Open SUPERAntiSpyware.
* Under "Configuration and Preferences", click the Preferences button.
* Click the Scanning Control tab.
* Under Scanner Options make sure the FOLLOWING are checked (leave all others unchecked):
o Close browsers before scanning.
o Scan for tracking cookies.
o Terminate memory threats before quarantining.
* Click the "Close" button to leave the control center screen.
* Back on the main screen, under "Scan for Harmful Software" click Scan your computer.
* On the left, make sure you check C:\Fixed Drive.
* On the right, under "Complete Scan", choose Perform Complete Scan.
* Click "Next" to start the scan. Please be patient while it scans your computer.
* After the scan is complete, a Scan Summary box will appear with potentially harmful items that were detected. Click "OK".
* Make sure everything has a checkmark next to it and click "Next".
* A notification will appear that "Quarantine and Removal is Complete". Click "OK" and then click the "Finish" button to return to the main menu.
* If asked if you want to reboot, click "Yes".
* To retrieve the removal information after reboot, launch SUPERAntispyware again.
o Click Preferences, then click the Statistics/Logs tab.
o Under Scanner Logs, double-click SUPERAntiSpyware Scan Log.
o If there are several logs, click the current dated log and press View log. A text file will open in your default text editor.
o Please copy and paste the Scan Log results in your next reply.
* Click Close to exit the program.
Post SUPERAntiSpyware log.

RESTART COMPUTER!

2. Download Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware: http://www.majorgeeks.com/Malwarebytes_Anti-Malware_d5756.html to your desktop.

* Double-click mbam-setup.exe and follow the prompts to install the program.
* At the end, be sure a checkmark is placed next to Update Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware and Launch Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware, then click Finish.
* If an update is found, it will download and install the latest version.
* Once the program has loaded, select Perform full scan, then click Scan.
* When the scan is complete, click OK, then Show Results to view the results.
* Be sure that everything is checked, and click Remove Selected.
* When completed, a log will open in Notepad.
* Post the log back here.

The log can also be found here:
C:\Documents and Settings\Username\Application Data\Malwarebytes\Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware\Logs\log-date.txt
Or at C:\Program Files\Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware\Logs\log-date.txt

RESTART COMPUTER!

3. Download HijackThis:
http://www.snapfiles.com/get/hijackthis.html
Post HijackThis log.

I have HP LAPTOP, WXP; I have sound for listening to radio online but no sound for things like spider solitaire and other programs on my computer. The volume CONTROL works and nothing is muted when I check controls, but no sound. Hope SOMEONE can help. Wandasue do you have a sound card or is this integrated sound?integrated........try UPDATING the drivers for it.Thanx, will do. W

43MB. I SAID that already.Try and KEEP up dustinator.....

My husband reported the desktop rebooted by itself. Gave him the Safe Mode, etc. options to continue. All options led to another reboot. When I tried it out it sometimes BOOTED back to Windows, but would only stay on for approximately 25 minutes. Now it will not boot at all. One time both the back fan and the heat sink fan came on, but the heat sink fan puttered off. Now only the back fan comes on at power up. I am not versed with all of the workings of computers.
Jeff did not hear anything out of the ordinary when the computer rebooted. No clicking or loud sounds. I'm not sure if the fan was running. I did smell "heat" when I was checking out the computer, and I KNOW the noisy heat sink fan was not working the whole time. I'm not sure what to check out first. I read an article on building a computer in Maximum PC and felt comfortable opening up the box. When I removed the CPU I noticed the center of the board is burned brown (not charred, but a brown rectangle.) All of the wires appear to be attached properly and securely. The fan had dust on it, but didn't appear to be too bad. Every thing else looks fine. The only thing newly attached to the computer was a wireless router. The computer is three years old. It was built using a SOYO K7VME Socket Barebones KIT, Maxtor120 GB Harddrive, Speeze Socket A/370 Copper Core Fan, AMD Sempron 2500+ Socket A CPU, Ultra 512MB PC3200 DDR 400 Mhz.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Suspecting fan, CPU, motherboard. No noise led me to believe my hard drive was fine. Sounds to me like you have fried you CPU, by continually booting up when you had problems already. The initial problem could of been your CPU overheating, causing the comp to reboot, but there is also the chance it could of been your power supply acting up. However, I do believe you have now fried your CPU. You could try taken this CPU out and giving it a proper coat of thermal paste, just to see what happens, but just make sure you fit the fan and heatsink back properly.Replace the CPU fan before it does indeed melt.
You may be able to rescue this machine.
If you remove the fan take it with you to the store and they should be able to match it up with a replacement... I'm planning on starting with the power supply first. Got word that my computer may be detecting a heat/fan problem and therefore not booting as a fail safe. If the heat sink fan does not come on I will shut the computer down immediately and replace the heat sink/fan. I live in a small town and am surprised that the local RadioShack, OfficeMax, etc. do not carry thermal paste or power supplies. I have to order both on my own. Since I removed the heat sink fan and CPU once already I will get the thermal paste right away to make sure I have good contact there. From there I guess I will deal with the CPU and motherboard.
I am confident that my hard drive and all of its belongings are still intact. I am hoping that the CPU is fine, but will take that as it comes. I also believe the mother board to be fine. I don't know if I can purchase just the CPU as it came as an all in one SOYO Barebones Kit with the CPU, video card, and sound card all inclusive.

Wish me luck!newegg is an excellent online retailer that has fast shipping and an excellent Customer Service dept.
I USE them quite often.Thanks for the info., I called the stores in my area and no one has thermal paste. Go figure. I'll give it a try and let you know how it goes. I'm a newbie at this, but the learning curve still exists so I'm confident I'll get RESULTS. ...just takes some help from someone who has walked the same halls...Try a Repair Shop...they usually give me a handful of tubes for 5 bucks....Hi, you can find the thermal paste, in computer stores like Best buy ($10 aprox), Circuit city($17 aprox), Office depot ($10), Stapples ($9), or you can try online, like newegg.com ($5 aprox. + shipping) or tiger direct.com.... you only need like 1cc...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Description=thermal+paste&x=0&y=0

Hello - i could really, really do with some help or advice, i have all my college work backed up on an external Iomega 360 HDD. Everything was fine yesterday but today when i went to open some old drawn gs, everything is missing.

I use the external hard drive to save old files 46gig as my computer is only 30gig.

I'm devastated especially as I'm in a practical exam and need all my historic drawings and photos -let alone all my personal stuff. And to put salt on to the wound my eldest who is an apprentice has been saving his college work and on site photos to the HDD also and he is in exams soon too - oh my goodness:(

Can anyone please help me retrieve these files. They are not showing but the usage on the hard drive SHOWS usage so they must be there somewhere - heeellllpppWelcome to the CH forums.

You better start by reading this..

And remember we cannot see your pc, don't even know if it's a laptop/notebook/desktop, so give as many details as you can think of.Hello Dusty and Thank you for your reply, Ive read through the this page, just now, i have also been searching it all day on the net. Ive in stalled the PC inspector and nothing came through, except some jpeg. Also had a go with freeundelete and UNDELETE. the first one will not install or open and the second is just restore (very old files) with names that do not make any sense -so i have TRIED honestly - just viewed a post I'm reading after this mail.

Hardware - Fujitsu, Siemens hard drive and monitor 30g, with a graphics card, Ive had it from new, 2000
External hard drive IOmega HDD 320g USB plus an electrical transformer

Operating system -windows millennium. I use AVG FREE addition for my emails etc.

History LAST time i opened the external hard drive was yesterday and it was fine, only store about 48g on it but its everything that is large and important, i have the majority of work backed up on CD and floppies but the recent drawins (cad) word documents and college pdf files have disappeared. Thing is alto of the cad drawings i need for my practical exam on Thursday this week, i can re do them and i have to re sketch them by had for the written exam but wiring diagrams are my notes and revision - can you see how panicy i am --eek My eldest told me that he had also stored his apprenticeship course work on the drive, all his site photos and a couple of word documents etc....OMG

Anyway, sorry about that - i think the drive became disconnected as the error came up something like usb stopped you may loose data. I have tried it on another PC and still cannot read them

Current situation- I go to my computer and on the iomega it shows used 46gb and freespace 251gb when i open it up, select all then properties it says 60 files, 3 folders, 141mb so this makes me think my files and folders are still there somewhere

Any help or advice really appreciated
Lina

Quote

i think the drive became disconnected as the error came up something like usb stopped you may loose data.

I have a Sony VAIO that I'm having problems with. Seems that there are lines APPEARING at random ACROSS the SCREEN. Sometimes there's one, has been as many as four spaced about two inches apart. I have updated all the drivers I can find, but still have the lines. Any ideas will be appreciated.Laptop, desktop? Windows version?Try to change the display settings to a lower resolution...How is it suppose to cure lines?Well, i found this info in this website it might be helpfull...

http://kb.iu.edu/data/adjt.html O/S is Win XP. Laptop is a Sony Vaio PCG-K23. Graphics is a ATI Radeon IGP 345M.Also, Lines are visable from start-up and continue thru all pages opened.Can you try to connect some external monitor? A friend?just wondering ... can you check that you have the refresh rate MAXED out at highest possible setting? maybe that helps with the problem? No. Laptop is the only unit available.refresh is set at maxHow many MHz?

dvd-r
dvd+r

What's the different?There's plenty of disc i didn't list here but i hope you guys understand what i'm trying to ask DVD+R is a recordable DVD format similar to CD-R. A DVD+R can record data only once and then the data becomes permanent on the disc. The disc can not be recorded onto a second time.

DVD+RW is a re-recordable format similar to CD-RW. The data on a DVD+RW disc can be erased and recorded over numerous times without damaging the medium.

DVD-R, DVD-RW and DVD-RAM
These formats are supported by Panasonic, Toshiba, Apple Computer, Hitachi, NEC, Pioneer, Samsung and SHARP. These formats are also supported by the DVD Forum.

DVD-R is a recordable DVD format similar to CD-R and DVD+R. A DVD-R can record data only once and then the data becomes permanent on the disc. The disc cannot be recorded onto a second time. There also are two additional standards for DVD-R disks: DVD-RG for general use, and DVD-RA for authoring, which is used for mastering DVD video or data and is not typically available to the general public.

DVD-RW is a re-recordable format similar to CD-RW or DVD+RW. The data on a DVD-RW disc can be erased and recorded over numerous times without damaging the medium. DVDs created by a -R/-RW device can be read by most commercial DVD-ROM players.

DVD-RAM discs can be recorded and erased repeatedly but are compatible only with devices manufactured by the companies that support the DVD-RAM format. DVD-RAM discs are typically housed in cartridges.

DVD+R DL and DVD-R DL
Dual layer technology is supported by a range of manufacturers including Dell, HP, Verbatim, Philips, Sony, Yamaha and others. As the name suggests, dual layer technology provides two individual recordable layers on a single-sided DVD disc. Dual Layer is more commonly called DOUBLE Layer in the consumer market, and can be seen written as DVD+R DL or DVD-R DL.

DVD+R DL (also called DVD+R9) is a Dual Layer writeable DVD+R.
DVD-R DL (also called DVD-R9) is a Dual Layer writeable DVD-R. The dual layered discs can hold 7.95GB
The dual layered discs (DVD+R9 and DVD-R9) can hold 7.95GB and double sided dual layer (called dvd-18) can hold 15.9GB.

HD-DVD
Short for high definition-DVD, a generic term for the technology of recording high-definition video on a DVD. In general, HD-DVD is capable of storing between two and four times as much data as standard DVD. The two most prominent competing technologies are Blu-ray and AOD.

Blu-ray Disc (BD) - uses a 405nm-wavelength blue-violet laser technology, in contrast to the 650nm-wavelength red laser technology used in traditional DVD formats. The rewritable Blu-ray disc, with a data transfer rate of 36Mbps (1x speed) can hold up to 25GB of data on a single-layer disc and 50GB on a dual-layer disc. On a 50GB disc, this translates into 9 hours of high-definition (HD) video or approximately 23 hours of standard-definition (SD) video. The Blu-ray format was developed jointly by Sony, Samsung, Sharp, Thomson, Hitachi, Matsushita, Pioneer and Philips, Mistubishi and LG Electronics.

Advanced Optical Disc (AOD) - AOD and Blu-ray are similar in that they both use 405nm-wavelength blue-violet laser technology. while Blu-ray has a storage capacity of 25GB on a single-layer disc, AOD has a storage capacity of 20GB on a single-layer disc. and the capacity to hold 30GB on a dual-layer disc. AOD was developed jointly by Toshiba and NEC.

DVD-ROM
DVD-ROM was the first DVD standard to hit the market and is a read-only format. The video or game content is burned onto the DVD once and the DVD will run on any DVD-ROM-equipped device. DVD-ROMs are similar to CDs.

Non-standardized DVD formats
DVD-VCD is a DVD-Video disc that has data on it that has been encoded by using the MPEG-1 video format with the same definitions VCD has.

DVD-SVCD is also not a valid DVD standard, since the DVD standard does not support the SVCD resolution. The term DVD-SVCD is used to describe a hacked, or non-standard DVD-Video disc that has SVCD compatible content on it.

DVD-MP3 is created with and contains only digital audio files in the MP3 format. Not all DVD players can play DVD-MP3 discs.

http://www.webopedia.com/DidYouKnow/Hardware_Software/2003/DVDFormatsExplained.asp

Hope this covers it
yup!
Tq so much...Hey kuszmania...Google not working?.....LOLhaha...i already think bout it before, but lot of disc MAKE me so confuse..thats why I'm here if google not working, just go to wikipedia Wikipedia is even simpler than google if you just want BASIC information LOL

Hello everyone,

Ok, so this TIME i have a really easy thing to ask you guys. Nothing that's going to take months like most of my problems.

I have a picture that you can see of a capacitor on my secondary video card (a little blurry, sorry). Now, i'm pretty sure it's blown, but you guys can confirm that for me. If it is, where can i get a replacment? Any chains you guys know of that sell them?
I was looking a little bit online, but things were listed in pf and mf, radial and axial, i was just getting confused, and i don't want to buy the wrong thing. So can you guys sort of inform me of what all that means?

On my capacitor it says it's 1000uf and 10v. Thanks

[recovering SPACE - attachment deleted by admin]It has a bulge even through the blurrieness...
REPAIR Shop is your best bet.There's a conversion chart here...

Any radio parts shop should be able to supply a replacement, don't know where you are located but look for RadioShack in your area. Be very gentle when soldering.

Good luckAll right, Thank you Dusty, that site even says radial is a capacitor where the leads are both on one side. I suppose that's what i need.
Thanks patio, but seeing as i got this video card for free in the first place, i think i'll AVOID paying someone else to do it.

That was quickI hope you have better than average soldering skills so that card doesn't wind up toasted...remember to mark the polarity on the board before removing the capacitor. the capacitor will have a stripe indicating which lead is the negative lead. capacitors are polarity sensitive and will NOT work if the polarities are reversed. also take NOTE that there are many heat sensitive components on the video card, so only keep the soldering iron in contact with the solder joints for as long as you need to. and one more additional note, keep your solder joints clean!, you do NOT want to short anything by having your solder joint cross over another circuit on the PCB.

Quote

but things were listed in pf and mf,

radial and axial

Hey,

A while back I had a problem with my PC that I have now narrowed down to a dead CPU. So... I have decided to get a new one. Nothing fancy, its not a great PC and I'm PLANNING to upgrade in a while so I don't want to spend an excessive amount of money.

Anyway, my motherboard is a Elitegroup 661GX-M7 version 1.1, here is a link to a spec's page, however it is for version 3.0(from what I can tell they are pretty similar). My dead CPU is a Intel P4 SL9CA if it matters.

I have narrowed my choices down to a Pentium Dual Core Processor, probably a SLA8X and I am wondering if the SLA8X is compatible with my motherboard. According to the motherboard's specs, it supports a FBS of 553MHz, but supports overclocking to 800MHz. However, these specs are for v3.0 and I'm not sure if they are the same for v1.1. My dead CPU was 533MHz, but the SLA8X is 800MHz, so if the specs on the website are RIGHT for v1.1 will my motherboard support this new processor. If not, could you suggest a better choice?

Thanks,
brent85.http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819112213

this one should keep you going until you upgrade.Thanks for the suggestion, unfortunately I'm not in the US so newegg isn't an option and I couldn't find that CPU in any Australian online store. However, I have decided to buy a new PC and fix that one up later as a server or something.

thanks for the HELP,
brent85

Every 10-15 minutes, a computer in my house has a Thermal Event. It just shuts down, and when you start it up it gives you the Thermal Event error and to press F1. It is a STANDARD DELL Dimension 3000, with 512MB RAM, 70.9GB Hard Drive space, and it's been doing this for months.It sounds like the computer is overheating and SHUTTING down to protect the hardware from damage.
Step one is to CLEAN out the inside of the computer case.
Turn off the computer, open the case and use a can of compressed AIR to blow out the dust.
Make sure to clean fans and heat sinks as they are important when it comes to keep the computer cool.
A few words of warning when cleaning your computer:
1.) Remember to TAKE anti-static precautions before working inside the case. You can discharge yourself of any static electricity by touching a piece of grounded metal.
2.) Do not use a vacuum cleaner. They can generate huge amounts of static electricity.
3.) When blowing the fans clean do not let them spin. Hold them gently in place.

I've recently purchased an off-lease Dell GX270 tower, 3000 MHz, 1000 MB RAM, running Windows XP Pro, Service Pack 2. Everything seemed to be working fine until I purchased an LG external DVD-RW drive, specifically the GSA-E40L. When I put a cd into the drive the motor raced really fast and sounded like it was going to take flight. It started right after the drive read the cd and sometimes stopped after a couple of minutes, or rarely didn't do it at all. This whirring noise wasn't consistent with what I was doing at the time (starts before I began ripping songs into my computer and sometimes stops before I'm finished). It usually didn't stop racing until I ejected the cd. Anyway, I had seller send me a replacement drive and it is doing the same thing. I've tried it in 3 DIFFERENT 2.0 usb ports (including front) with same results. I also have other hardware plugged into this computer's ports with no problems, including ipod, cordless keyboard/mouse, Seagate external drive, etc. I don't have access to another computer with 2.0 ports to test the drive in. Sorry for writing a novel, but any suggestions?
Many disc drives spin a disc up to full speed when first inserted and if the drive is noisy this might be pretty loud. Usually the drive will spin the disc down again after a few minutes but if the disc is being accessed it may continue.
So I'm thinking the model you've bought is just extremely noisy. Maybe you can get it exchanged to different model?
If not try DriveSpeed from Nero. You can use this software to limit the read speed of the disc drive and hopefully reduce the noise it generates.
http://www.cdspeed2000.com/download.htmlI think I might have this same problem. What happens when you try to just play a cd from the drive without ripping the songs? You may also want to look into available firmware updates from LG btw. If the noise issue is common for this model it is not unlikely that LG have issued a firmware update to address this. Just beware, using the wrong firmware or doing the upgrade incorrectly can turn your drive into a paper weight. And make sure you know exactly what a firmware update is going to do before you apply it. There is little point in updating if the update doesn't address the noise issue.Deerpark, I think I love you. Kedynscrow, it starts up right after the drive reads the cd, before I start playing, ripping, or anything. It's even hard to hear music over it. I've wanted to duck and run for cover a couple of times...Quote from: RAE7 on April 19, 2008, 10:26:35 AM

Deerpark, I think I love you.