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I acquired a PS2 mouse. It works on this computer (PC1) which has windows 98SE. But when I install it on another computer (PC2) with the same operating system I get the message that no mouse is installed. This HAPPENS when I install it in the PS2 port or when I install it in a USB port (using the adapter supplied). Can something be done so this mouse can be installed in PC2?what brand/model is your mouse? You may need to get the drivers for the mouse?

PC1 may already have the right drivers making it work fine.


But I'd think that most mouses are plug and play -- insert to the slot, restart your computer and it detect it fine.It is a Logitech mouse and it says on the PACKAGE that 'No setup necessary. simply connect the mouse to your USB or PS/2 port'. I have done both (with PC2 shut down) and got the no mouse connected message each time on start up.WOAH!!!

PS2 items should only be plugged in/unplugged when the machine is off!!!

Also, Win98 isn't COMPATIBLE with USB mice.

I know it sounds stupid, but have you tried wiggling the plug in the port? It could be a failing port, if the fuse on the mobo hasn't blown due to trying to hot-swap a PS2 device.I have tried another PS2 mouse (the one that was working on PC1) on the PS2 port on PC2 with it shut down. I got the no mouse message again when I rebooted PC2. I know that a PS2 mouse should not be plugged into the port when the computer is on.Maybe the port is gone then.

Have you got an OLD school SERIAL mouse you could try? Or maybe an adapter?PC2 has been operating with a serial mouse for ages. It is connected to another port via a large screw in plug. I wanted to change it for the PS2 mouse because of the additional capabilities. I have just checked the PS2 port and it was slightly damaged so the plug was not fitting right in. This has been fixed and PCs now operates with the PS2 mouse. Thank you for your advice.Sorted.

WINNER!

I hope I have the proper FORUM, 1st TIME here. When I scan a line document, no color, just a B&W letter TYPE PAGE, it prints out with a grey backgound. How can I get a clean white background, just a B&W line document. Also is it possible to have the scan lamp turn off when not in use? This is a HP Scanjet 4200C SCANNER. Thanx from Whidbey Island.

I have an Everex Desktop; AMD 3400+; on-board video & sound.

When I push the start button, the computer looks (& Sounds) to be booting up.

However, the monitor then says "No Video Signal" and suspends, my Microsoft Blue OPTICAL mouse does not "light up" or show any life.

I have checked the monitor, and mouse on 2 other computers, and they both work fine.

Does anyone have any ideas ?

Did this just start to happen? did you add or do anything to your computer that started this.

Boot in safe mode and see if you see anything on the screen, If you cannot do you have a graphics card you could try. No, it has done this 5-6 times over the last 3 weeks. I would just do a hard (Power-button) reboot, and it would re-start just fine and act normal.

Yesterday a.m. I tried this to no avail, and it has not started up CORRECTLY since.

I've added nothing, did a WinXP home fresh install 3-4 months ago.

I thought about trying ANOTHER graphics card (have to get one)
but if the mouse doesn't work it wont be much help anyway.Quote from: gtolemonds on April 20, 2008, 06:24:26 PM

When I push the start button, the computer looks (& Sounds) to be booting up.

However, the monitor then says "No Video Signal" and suspends, my Microsoft Blue Optical mouse does not "light up" or show any life.

this happens a lot. It goes into power saving mode. And then it stars again. What could it be?Need...more...info...gasp

OPERATING system / antivirus & antispyware protection / service packs installed / when did it start HAPPENING / did it ever work RIGHT / installed any new software?

ALAN <&GT;<

Well I UNPLUG mine even thought I dont use it that MUCH when I do. Going to put a bigger DRIVE in there soon. HOPEFULLY.

i have a really old computer
2001 Custom Built MSI motherboard
Intel Pentium 4 Processor
1024 MB Ram
Nvidia GeForce 5200 FX video card, 128 MB Vid Ram
19.4 GB/ 111 GB internal hard drive (main)
224 GB/ 232 GB Lacie External USB Hard drive (archive/storage)
Logitech Wireless Mouse & Keyboard

Normally i have 3 things hooked up to my PC
my printer, my keyboard (usb, and mouse PS2 are joined into wireless hub ) and my External hard drive.
when i connect my Ipod First Generation 1GB shuffle, my mouse stops working along with my keyboard. at first i thought too many things were connected, so i hard REBOOTED it disconnected my Printer and waited for it to load. everything was fine, then i connect my ipod and the same thing happens.

please help i just got this ipod and ireally want to upload some songs to it
Thank youDisconnect the printer and external HDD and re-boot.
Install the iPod software.
Re-boot and hook up the iPod .
Does it SEE it now ? ?

What ver. of Windows ? ?
How much free space on that internal drive ? ?

Also the issue may be it's seeking that almost full external drive so hard it stutters at recognising another USB device.
Drives aren't built to be that stuffed...internal or external, ESPECIALLY running Windows...
Start planning some better file management/backup STRATEGIES.

i am in the market for a new vid card and
at my local best buy they have these two options

VisionTek - ATI RADEON HD2400 Pro 512MB DDR2 AGP Graphics Card
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8771359&st=agp+video+cards&lp=1&type=product&cp=1&id=1203815723741
or this one

PNY - Verto NVIDIA GeForce 8400 GS 512MB GDDR2 PCI Graphics Card
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8968067&st=pci+video+cards&lp=4&type=product&cp=1&id=1217029964768

i know that agp is obviously better but i have heard some bad things about visionteks video cards
input is appreciatedIf you check @ newegg you will probably see a better selection of AGP cards...
Great service and some of the best pricing out there...I agree that you should look at newegg or tigerdirect. You should be able to get more for your MONEY. I have not heard of visiontek before so I cannot comment whether they are good or bad. I WOULD go with AGP if your only options are PCI and AGP.Geeks mite even be a better choice. Hopefully, that your board will support AGPQuote from: squall_01 on April 08, 2009, 12:17:30 PM

Geeks mite even be a better choice.

computergeeks.com or geeks.com

price range if you know what you want.

Ok, well 1st, the site is great! Full of helpful people, although just joined today, be a READER for some time.

now my question. I have an Adaptec 39160 SCSI Card, and a Dell DLT7000 Tape DRIVE. I am trying to get the TWO to work. The drivers where loaded by default but I updated them with the newest one from Adaptec. I guess my question is where to start so that the PC will read the Drive.


Thanks for the HELP!Tape Drives can be quirky in nature...
I would visit the Dell Site and grab the drivers from there to start with...
Re-boot after installing them and remember to REMOVE the tape drive from Device Manager prior to trying this...Quote from: patio on April 08, 2009, 05:57:25 PM

Tape Drives can be quirky in nature...
I would visit the Dell Site and grab the drivers from there to start with...
Re-boot after installing them and remember to remove the tape drive from Device Manager prior to trying this...

hi,

i have a HP Evo n610c laptop, while i had the headphones plugged in i accidentally dropped the laptop.. To my utter total disappointment this left me with no sound in the headphones and in the INTERNAL speakers.. decided to take the laptop apart and found that the headphone jack has been ripped right of the main board... like i SAY i have no sound through the normal internal speakers... does the laptop think it still has headphones pluged in? Is there ANYWAY i can disable it?, its a shame to think that little headphone jack can destroy all the sound on my laptop. Or do you think i can bypass the head phone socket with a new wire on the main board.. the only problem is it has quite a few solder points where the socket originally snapped off..... Please help.
There may be more extensive damage than just the headphone jack. Is it still under warranty?

As far as soldering on a laptop mb, it's dicey at best.

Alan <>< No not under warranty... its older but recently updated.. have done a little research and if i was to take it to a repair shop it seems like they would advise me to buy a new MB. Just whish they had put them little ACCIDENT prone sockets an a smaller sister board.For got to ask earlier... if i was to plug in a USB speaker would i still have this problmYes, that is what a shop would do as I worked for Circuit City as a bench tech some years ago and that is what would be recommended.

Wish I had better news for you

Alan <>< Most likely yes because the system will still look to that hardware to run the sound.

Alan <>< You might check around and see if there is a qualified PROFESSIONAL who can solder the jack back on. Not sure this will fix the problem and you do so at your own risk.I had a friend who took her laptop to an "expert" and they jacked it up worse than before. Heed quaxo's warning

Alan <><

OK, here's the problem: I BOOT up my Acer Aspire One and the moment the SCREEN turns on, i see nothing but colored lines. I can hook it up to an external monitor and it WORKS, but I can't figure out what's wrong. PLEASE help me!

Connected to computer modem and combination phone/answering machine. Printer is supposed to "listen" to all calls, ALLOWING regular calls through to the answering machine but disabling the answering machine when it detects a fax transmition. Problem: it only does this about 10% of the time. Most faxes are treated as regular phone calls and ignored, at which time I get a "beeping" on my answering machine. When answering machine is turned off the machine performs as designed, allowing regular calls through to the phone and picking up the faxes. QUESTION: since the installation diagram(s) shows only separate phone and answering machine attached to the printer and computer is my combination phone/answering system interfering/confusing the printer? Help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...SHOT in the dark here... how many rings do you have the answering machine set for? My fax [Brother] manual says it must be set for 2 rings or it will get confused.

Alan <&GT;< Answering machine is set at 4 rings, printer at 5 rings because setup says the printer must be set at a higher number than the answering machine. Have tried all possible combinations with the same results. Thanks...good shot, but a little high and to the RIGHT. Also by the way, if I am online when I turn the machine on it kicks me off (I'm a caveman with dial-up).

Mike

Hello everyone...i just finished installing a couple new hard drives into my system that i got from a friend...one is a 200gb drive and the other is a 500gb drive. I got them installed correctly but windows is telling me that the one drive has only 96gb and the other has 98gb. Have i done something wrong ? My bios detects them as being the capacity they should be. I know im bein pretty vauge as to what im runnin but thought someone could give some suggetions...if you NEED more info, and you probably will, plz tell me what you need to know and ill do my best to respond quickly...tyvm in advance for your assistance.Have you checked the hdd already? Maybe it already have some files on it.What Windows version is this and what SERVICE Pack?HDD were both formatted before they were givin to me

Windows XP home edition
service pack 3It doesn't matter if they were formatted if the partitions weren't set up properly to begin with....so how can i fix it so my drives are at full capacity ?visit disk management. (Start->Run, "diskmgmt.msc")

determine if any drives have unallocated space. As far as i can tell there is no unallocated space on either driveQuote from: Dalo on April 08, 2009, 08:49:12 PM

As far as i can tell there is no unallocated space on either drive

the linked docking station would actually serve more like the MATROX dual head-to-go rather than a kvm switch, after reading a little further.
quote from webpage:
Quote

Advanced docking station with high performance VGA video controller support - viewing up to THREE displays simultaneously

hi to all here im new so please forgive my stupidity if i get things wrong

i bought a cable with rgb which would allow me to use my tv as a monitor, does an rgb cable do the same function as yellow video cable, the rgb cable i bought was MENT to have yellow WHITE red phonos but instead it came with rgb, when i complained they said it did same function as yrb cable, but i CANT get it to work at all. and my computer wont reconize my tv as a second monitor.

my pc specs are
dual core 2.0
2gb ram
biostar T series Motherboard
dvd writer
win dvr 3

i hope you guys can help me please

ty

Doctorwho4life
What vid card ? ?hi sorry for that ,my video card is built in to the mother board its 512mb motherboard is biostar, t series
op system WINDOWS xp professonal,

my tv has red yellow white phon sockets, can i connect rgb to this, if so what color goes where

sorry for many questions, but i THINK i have been conned by the shop what sent me the wrong cablesYou need to check your MBoard information to see if the onboard video will support hooking up aTV as a monitor...they don't all work this way simply with a cable.the book says this," transmits analog video signals to computer monitor or any other display panel wequipped with d-sub vga input", the set up menu allows you to use dual monitos or tv as a monitor

cheers

I can't figure out what the problem is,but several times an hour my computer won't let you click the picture off. It just beeps once. The picture wont go off,and even if you right click on the bottom,and click closed there,it just beeps.
Occasionally it beeps while I'm only typing. I'm having some trouble with my HAND turning to the hourglass and freezing up for a while too.
I just got done removing a CD that I had been downloading craft information on a few months ago. I never had got finished with it,and it was never took out of the machine until today. A reminder would come up every time I turned on the computer,asking if I wanted to work on it,but I'd always click No. After I took the CD out today it asked if I wanted to delete it from the computer,and I said yes. After that,it seemed to be working alright. Wishful thinking,I guess. HELP!!!! Just wanted to let you know,that I think my problem ended up being from-EXPLOIT and JS DOWNLOADER AGENT viruses. I have AVG to prevent getting viruses,but the sign telling about it didn't come up until the beeping had been going on for about a day and a half.
For those of you that ever use YAHOO ANSWERS--I think that's where it came from.I had asked a question,and got an e-mail that said it had been answered. I clicked on it,and it made no sense. I got 2 more answers,and noticed their titles were worded differently than the first one. They sounded more like what they usually do. This is what they usually say-YOU HAVE A NEW ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTION.
The other one (that I 'predict' had the virus) said YOU HAVE RECEIVED A MESSAGE FROM ANOTHER USER.

BE CAREFUL !!!!!!In that case, you better...

Print these instructions out.

1. DOWNLOAD SUPERAntiSpyware Free for Home Users:
http://www.superantispyware.com/

* Double-click SUPERAntiSpyware.exe and use the default settings for installation.
* An icon will be created on your desktop. Double-click that icon to launch the program.
* If asked to update the program definitions, click "Yes". If not, update the definitions before scanning by selecting "Check for Updates". (If you encounter any problems while downloading the updates, manually download and unzip them from here: http://www.superantispyware.com/definitions.html.)
* Close SUPERAntiSpyware.

Restart computer in Safe MODE.
To enter Safe Mode, restart computer, and keep tapping F8 key, until menu appears; select Safe Mode; you'll see "Safe Mode" in all four corners of your screen

* Open SUPERAntiSpyware.
* Under "Configuration and Preferences", click the Preferences button.
* Click the Scanning Control tab.
* Under Scanner Options make sure the following are checked (leave all others unchecked):
o Close browsers before scanning.
o Scan for tracking cookies.
o Terminate memory threats before quarantining.
* Click the "Close" button to leave the control center screen.
* Back on the main screen, under "Scan for Harmful Software" click Scan your computer.
* On the left, make sure you check C:\Fixed Drive.
* On the right, under "Complete Scan", choose Perform Complete Scan.
* Click "Next" to start the scan. Please be patient while it scans your computer.
* After the scan is complete, a Scan Summary box will appear with potentially harmful items that were detected. Click "OK".
* Make sure everything has a checkmark next to it and click "Next".
* A notification will appear that "Quarantine and Removal is Complete". Click "OK" and then click the "Finish" button to return to the main menu.
* If asked if you want to reboot, click "Yes".
* To retrieve the removal information after reboot, launch SUPERAntispyware again.
o Click Preferences, then click the Statistics/Logs tab.
o Under Scanner Logs, double-click SUPERAntiSpyware Scan LOG.
o If there are several logs, click the current dated log and press View log. A text file will open in your default text editor.
o Please copy and paste the Scan Log results in your next reply.
* Click Close to exit the program.
POST SUPERAntiSpyware log.

RESTART COMPUTER!

2. Download Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware: http://www.majorgeeks.com/Malwarebytes_Anti-Malware_d5756.html to your desktop.

* Double-click mbam-setup.exe and follow the prompts to install the program.
* At the end, be sure a checkmark is placed next to Update Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware and Launch Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware, then click Finish.
* If an update is found, it will download and install the latest version.
* Once the program has loaded, select Perform full scan, then click Scan.
* When the scan is complete, click OK, then Show Results to view the results.
* Be sure that everything is checked, and click Remove Selected.
* When completed, a log will open in Notepad.
* Post the log back here.

The log can also be found here:
C:\Documents and Settings\Username\Application Data\Malwarebytes\Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware\Logs\log-date.txt
Or at C:\Program Files\Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware\Logs\log-date.txt

RESTART COMPUTER!

3. Download HijackThis:
http://www.snapfiles.com/get/hijackthis.html
Post HijackThis log.

good WORK Mr. Potty mouth. Nice Quote from: squall_01 on April 20, 2008, 08:51:30 AM

good work Mr. Potty mouth.

Hello, everyone. I've been lucky the past few years and have had no computer problems I couldn't eventually figure out myself, so am new to this forum.

About the computer: A Dell, probably about five years old. Gig of RAM. Couple of hard drives. XP with SP2. Video card is an Gforce 5000 or something like that.

I'm pretty sure the video card went out TODAY. I had left it on; when I came back it was frozen so I did a hard reboot. Well, when I turned it back on the thing when psychedelic on me. It's done that before but I'd take the card out and put it back in and it would work. The last time that happened was probably about a year AGO and it was humming along until today.

Hoping it's not a motherboard problem. I'll try to get another video card tomorow, but in the meantime I really, really need to get to some files on it tonight for work, so this question is asked with some urgency, I guess.

The desktop is networked to this laptop, but without being able to see anything I cannot log on to the desktop and the laptop will not see the other computer. Is there a way to get around logging in without being able to see anything? Shot in the dark, I know.

If it's a motherboard issue, I guess I'll get a new computer. Having just paid the IRS a bunch of money I really hope not. It also presents other problems. Even though my desktop is old, until tonight it's been perfectly functional and easier to work with than this thing, so I have a lot of files on its C Drive that I'd like to get. If I were to get a new computer, would it be POSSIBLE to put the old C Drive as a secondary just for temporary purposes? Would having XP loaded on it interfere with anything?

I'm sort of a computer idiot. I know enough not to put that hard disk in a new computer without asking smarter people, though.

Thanksif you're just using the old drive as secondary drive and leave xp on it, nothing's gonna happen. you can still see your files. That's good to know if it comes to that. Sure wish there was a way to get that thing to boot in the meantime, though. If the network is setup properly it should be able to see the other machine fine...
Boot the bad machine as normal and let it sit for 4 or 5 minutes to finish it's tasks.
You should then be able to log on and see/use all your files from the laptop.
Just pretend for now you can see the screen.

Hm.

I guess my network's not set up properly. I couldn't get the old computer to boot properly because I couldn't see to log into it. Left it on forever and the laptop NEVER would see it.

But that's okay. I got a new graphics card FIRST thing in the morning and it fixed it.

Thanks for the tips.

Playing a DVD movie on my DVD drive, motion is start-stop with a cycle time of about 2 seconds. Is this a problem with the hardware, driver, decoder or MEDIA player software?

Desktop, Windows XP, Windows media player, Sony DVD drive.Computer info: processor speed, amount of RAM, video card specs (RAM).Does it affect all DVDs, including pressed ones and burned ones, or only some disks? Or just one?
An old Gateway desktop. 800 Mhz. 512 MB RAM. No information in control panel about video card.

I played ANOTHER pressed DVD and did not observe the problem. I don't have any burned DVDs. I have played the DVD on which I observed the problem before, and there was no problem then.


An old Gateway desktop. 800 Mhz. 512 MB RAM. No information in control panel about video card.

I played another pressed DVD and did not observe the problem. I don't have any burned DVDs. I have played the DVD on which I observed the problem before, and there was no problem then.
Everything back to normal, then?Nope. Guess my last post was unclear. Still getting start-stop on the disc where I initially had the problem. What I was trying to say was that I had previously had normal result on thad disc.Do other DVDs play OK? Did you try to clean DVD in question?I only have a few DVDs. I tried one other and it was OK. I haven't tried cleaning the CD. Will do that and reply.When you clean CD/DVD, always use radial motion, not circular.Is this "onboard" video with the motherboard or a separate video card?

Look at the back of the PC box. There will be a group of connectors on a single vertical panel. These come with the motherboard. If your monitor is connected there you're using onboard video.

On the back of the PC box towards the bottom there is a series of horizonal slots. These are for additional component cards that plugin to the motherboard. If the monitor is connected there you have a separate video card.

Onboard video frequently uses system memory for all or part of its graphic memory needs. This shared memory usage can cause the symptoms you're seeing. Although I am puzzled that it seems to be limited to a single DVD disc.

You may be able to modify the "AGP Aperture" value in the system BIOS to increase the maximum amount of system memory available for graphics use. If you can provide the Make and Model Number of that Gateway system, we may be able to pull the documentation off the internet to see what user modifiable settings are available in the system BIOS.

Is there available somewhere a description of the commonly used RAM in PCs?

I have some memory sticks I wish to sell and would like to IDENTIFY a COMPLETE description
of the sticks. For example: Are all PC2700 sticks the same (other than MB size) or do they come in various MHz ratings as well.

If I have a stick MARKED DDR 256 256MB does it also mean that this is a PCxxxx number?

I have tried Googling this WITHOUT luck.

Any help appreciated.

See Here...Thank You very much "patio" for the quick reply.

That's exactly what I needed!!EXCELLENT !

Yesterday, the display on my computer monitor has been screwing up. I see vertical lines of distortion across the screen, color issues, and redraw problems (I think that's what it's called).

At first I thought this occurred because I updated the drivers on my video card, so I did a rollback on the drivers, but it still has display problems. I'm pretty sure it's my video card. I've also been getting this blue screen error, something about "physical memory dumping" or something.

Can anyone identify the problem and provide a solution?

Computer specs:
Dell Dimension 4600
Windows XP
ATI RADEON 9800 Pro
1.5 GB RAM
Pentium 4 3.0 ghz processor

Thanks in advance.Try monitor with another computer.Factory Dell PSU in that machine ? ?
Checked to see all fans are running properly and you're not overrun with dust bunnies inside the case ? ?
When you did the rollback did you let Windows handle it ? ? Doesn't always work well in some cases.
CHECK for instances of the newer driver and un-install them and re-boot.
Sometimes you have to actuallt remove both and re-boot and re-install the originals......I opened up the case to check the video card fan and it seems to be functioning. The weird thing is, the graphics are perfect now with the case off. But, I am NOTICING a weird noise coming from the computer. It sounds like a high-pitched, chirping sound (like a bird). Now that I think about it, this sound surfaced when I began having these display problems. What does the sound mean? And why are the graphics fine when I have the case off (it is off as I type)?

I haven't added any new hardware to the system except 1 GB RAM to the existing 512 MB.Download RightMark CPU Clock Utility: http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Info/RightMark-CPU-Clock-Utility.shtml
Check your computer temps with open case.
Close the case, run computer for 30 minutes, or so, and check temps again.Quote from: mrpibb on April 22, 2008, 03:57:21 PM

But, I am noticing a weird noise coming from the computer. It sounds like a high-pitched, chirping sound (like a bird).

Hey guys,

A friend of mine called me up and told me that his computer had just stopped working out of the blue. I told him to bring it over so i could take a look. With process of elimination I found that his graphics card(nV 8600gts) was causing the short. I tried it in both of his PIC-E SLOTS, and got the same result, the fans and lights coming on for about 1-2 seconds and then shutting off. He SAID that his computer was running fine for about 2 hours before it first shorted out. It worked fine for weeks before that, and 2 hours isn't really long enough to heat THINGS so much that it shorts.

If I replace that card with one of my 8800's or any other card it works fine. I think that rules out it being the power supply or its motherboard slots. I haven't tried putting his card in my system because I think that there is no real need to risk hurting my own system in some way. I have examined the card, took off the cooling fan, and tried to see any spot where it looked out of the ordinary.

My questions are... Does anybody know If there is any usual spot I should look at? Should I tell my friend to START searching for a new card? Any ideas of fixes/solutions to try, herbal remedies?

Thanks for any help guys!
-Jeffi'm wondering what brand is the nvidia card and how long it's been on hand. If warranty still applies, maybe he can get replacement card.you could try looking at the capacitors, look to see if they are bulging or LEAKING dielectric.mcxeb52!

MSI it was purchased from Newegg 1.4 years ago.

homer

I'll check tomorrow when I'm not sleep typeing.

Thanks guys!

Hey everyone, I have a problem that I thought was software related, but now I'm not so sure. A lady here at work is having a problem when she works in Microsoft Word. She can work just fine on a document but when she tries to SAVE it, Word locks up. I uninstalled Microsoft Office and Reinstalled it again and also installed the latest service pack for office but it still has the same problem. As far as I know it doesn't do this with any other program and it's something that just started happening. I'm not sure if it's something hardware related or not. We have the Microsoft Office Professional Edition 2003 loaded on our server and I downloaded it from there. It's ALWAYS worked fine until now. Any ideas as to what this might be?

Her computer specs are:

Dell Precision WorkStation 380
WINDOWS XP Professional SP2
Intel Pentium 4 3.00 GHz Processor
1 GB RAM
80GB Hard Drive

I don't know if I'm MISSING ANYTHING in the specs. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys!Two things, that come up to my mind...
1. After uninstalling M$ Office, make sure, you manually delete M$ Office folder.
2. Create new Windows profile, and install Office there.Thanks Broni! I had forgotten to manually delet the M$Office folder. I uninstalled office again and deleted the folder and reinstalled Office and it's working fine now. Great!!

How do I configure the keyboard special key for Music.

At first, when I pressed it, WINDOWS Media was invoked, then I installed ITunes, and now its the default application for that key.

How do I reconfigure it to run Windows Media or something else?

THANKS in advance...
RafaelDepends on the keyboard.

What is the exact make and model of your keyboard?Hi quaxo:

The keyboard is Genius
Product Name SlimStar, Model No: KKB-2050I took a browse of their website, there's no mention of a utility and nothing AVAILABLE for download for that model. Did it come with a CD?im guessing its looking at what your default player is for mp3's.

right click on a music file (.mp3)
choose open with...
tick the "always use this progam with this file type" box
open with WMP or ur other player

Cross fingers and press the media centre botton on keyboardHi,

Thanks for answering...but, didn't work.

The last thing related with music that I installed was iTunes, and guess what, it's the default app form the music key.

I guess that I will have to reinstall Windows Media...Hi there:

I simply REINSTALLED Windows Media, and the Special Music Key is now pointing to this application.

Thanks for your concern!Quote from: NOT ADMIN :P on APRIL 28, 2008, 07:29:25 PM

im guessing its looking at what your default player is for mp3's.

right click on a music file (.mp3)
choose open with...
tick the "always use this progam with this file type" box
open with WMP or ur other player

Cross fingers and press the media centre botton on keyboard

Hi there:

I simply reinstalled Windows Media, and the Special Music Key is now pointing to this application.

Thanks for your concern!

Hi all, I'm new here, but intend to be sticking around!

Basically, I'm building a system for my brother to use, as his recently CONKED out entirely. I've got everything installed, and supposedly running well, apart from one thing.

I have a genuine AMD ATHLON XP 2800+ CPU mounted on an MSI KT4 Ultra motherboard.

When I boot the PC, the CPU shows as an AMD Athlon 2600+ as opposed to a 2800+. I've tried fiddling with multipliers, etc, but almost every time the PC simply refuses to boot at all, and i have to return the BIOS to deafult in order to try and fail again.

If anyone has any SUGGESTIONS, I'd very much appreciate them. Specs are as follows:

AMD Athlon XP 2800+
MSI KT4 Ultra Motherboard (Running version 1.10)
Crucial 512MB DDR400 RAM
Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 250GB HDD running windows XP

Cheers,

Liamare you 100% sure that the 2800+ isnt actually a 2600+? maybe you got the wrong chip.It MAY be as simple as your BIOS mis-reporting the CPU...
DLoad CPU-Z

I have a Jeyway 663AS Pro MoBo with an AMD Athlon 1.4 Ghz Thunderbird Processor on it, the 100/200 MHz FSB one.

This Mobo has the VIA Apollo KT133 chipset and worked well for many years in FACT the MoBo still works fine once it is booted up. The problem is that I keep having to put new CMOS batteries in it. The first one lasted for years the next one about 6 months and the last one or two less than one month. I have tried batteries from different sources studied the Mobo for foreign matter that could be draining the battery all with no success.

I have Googled extensively and found some suggestions LIKE building a simple rechargable battery circuit, adding a couple of C cells in series with a much larger capacity to snipping and replacing the diodes down by the battery.

Can anyone recommend the best approach.

Yes I already have a better machine so that is not the answer I am looking for! I simply want to understand the problem so that I can FIX it, more to satisfy the challenge than a need for yet another machine.Well this evening I bit the bullet and swapped the two diodes on the Jetway mobo that are down by the CMOS battery. I pulled two from another old mobo and used those rather than two from my tin of old semiconductors. I put a new CR2032 CMOS battery in when I had the mobo re-installed and everything connected up again. To my relief I could still get into the BIOS and configure settings plus it all booted up again as it was doing previously from my W'98 STARTUP floppy disk. All the drives were there and the settings in the BIOS remained after the machine had been switched off for a little while so the CMOS battery was working.

Only time will tell if this has fixed the premature discharge problem so I have my fingers crossed.

Changing these diode was a fiddly task and they are normal sized components. I needed my strongest glasses and a steady hand. Some of the nearby PCB tracks were like threads. It's not one of my neatest jobs but the mobo does still work and with a bit of luck it may have fixed the problem.

I did compare the forward and reverse resistance of the replacement diodes with those of the ones that I took out and there was certainly a difference. The reverse resistance of the replacements was much higher so hopefully it will follow that the leakage will be less.

What do you reckon, I am in with a chance or not? As you stated...only time will tell.Quote from: patio on April 24, 2008, 04:09:34 PM

As you stated...only time will tell.

Hi, I bought a phillips SATA DVD drive and have been monkeying around trying to install it on dell 8400 P4 3.00ghz 2.5gig ram. XP OS. the hard drive is Sata and a
power cable is connnected to it and has one other connector AVAILABLE. The MB has 4 Sata data ports with 0 being used by the hard drive. What I did was removed my old cd-rw drive and replaced it with the dvd drive and hooked the power cable (the one that shares the hard drive) and bought a sata data cable and plugged one end into the drive and one into the motherboard. I tried 2 different positions on the motherboard. I got a message on pre boot that said drive 5 not recognized. Sata is enabled in the bios. Any thoughts on this??
Thanks for your time, lbsInstall the SATA drivers for the drive.
Some boards REQUIRE this for each SATA port.

I do a cleaning of my pcs once an a while when I feel that they need it. I take off the heatsink an such. It APPEARED that after removeing the heatsink to FIVE pcs that there was no paste on them. Not really knowing that can it really ruin them??? I've been running the 2350 SINCE my sister GOT it for long periods at a time. I put new on but it SEEMED to run fine for her as well.yea, it can.Jsut checking cause the 2350 is a dell

I have a Dell Dimension E310 with Windows XP that going on a couple of years old. My problem just started a few weeks ago, but it's really affecting computing. After about 15 minutes of use from start-up, I'll notice (by sound) that my computer fan seems to be speeding up. At the same time my computer processing slows down to almost nothing. I have consulted a friend on this, who recommended that I blow out the computer as he felt it was overheating from being full of dust. Well, it was dirty, and I spent about HALF a can of pressured air to blow out all of the dust THOROUGHLY and made sure vents were entirely clean. Well, I still GOTS da' problem! Do I have a part of some sort going bad (yep my warranty is expired), or am I just a dummy over looking something obvious? By the way, when I close Explorer the fan will slow down and my computer speed will com back for a few minutes until I get on-line again. Your help is much appreciated.Welcome to the CH forums.

Could be that the processor is overheating. Do you monitor temps? Can you remove the processor fan and replace the thermal paste?

Quote

By the way, when I close Explorer the fan will slow down and my computer speed will com back for a few minutes until I get on-line again.

katefields, be careful about giving malware removal advice on here, even if well meant, the mods may turn around and bite you, saying you are not "qualified". I have been burned that way

What is the least expensive portable computer that would accept a flash drive?Quote

portable computer

The EeePC from Asus is quite nice though. It comes with a customized version of Linux, but includes drivers for Windows XP on CD. It DOES NOT include Windows XP, you'll have to purchase that separately.

I think you may have things a bit confused Starwind51.
The Cruzer does not come with XP installed, so unless you have actually installed XP on it (which isn't easy considering XP isn't designed to work from USB devices) you will need to install XP on the laptop.

carrying a flashdrive is pointless without a way to read it and 8lbs of laptop doesn't seem portable to me.

why not get a palm pilot? then you wont even need the flash drive.

Mainly because Palms don't come with keyboards, and palm-type products just have tiny keyboards.

Also i am noticing that its freezing up on me during the reboot process. IM thinking this could be a problem with my motherboard ?


Thanks
EdBeginning to think this could be a failing hard drive or corrupt or missing Windows files...IMO.

Do you have all of your important documents and files backed up? The REASON I'm asking is that you should perform a HD diagnostic...using software as it pertains to the manufacturer of your current HD. You can usually visit their site for this software.

You can also use this same software to repartition and format the drive to perform a clean install of XP. Time consuming? Yeah...I know. Yet...if we can rule out the hardware, this may be the way to go.

Back up everything you want saved, first. You also may want to wait for further replies to this topic...Ok been a week now, my hard drive started to be very loud, so thinking this might be the problem I went and replaced it. During the windows install process my MONITOR blink a lot and I had to restart the install of windows several times due to my computer freezing up. So I now have a new hard drive and still have the same problem with it freezing. Im beginning to wonder if it could be my video card ? Any ideas? Thanks for the help ;o)

EdAlso im getting messages saying i have probems with my registry now, is there any free registry repair programs anyone know of and will this cause any of my freezing issues ?

Thanks

EdQuote from: GX1_Man on November 11, 2007, 05:43:52 PM

What's next is some details about the computer, including make and model and age.

Size, make and age of power supply?

What happened prior to these problems? Any changes in hardware, software? Any power surges lately? Do you have a surge suppressor on that outlet?

How long has this been going on? Do you have a real Windows CD?

What type of ANTIVIRUS, antispyware, etc. are being used?

Keep that side panel off and blow a fan directly in there and SEE if it continues. While in there make sure all fans are turning.

Post back with the answers to ALL of these and we can proceed.

I'm getting low on memory 30% right now. My memory banks are full, I'm wondering if I remove memory CARDS and put in new ones will I loose any information when I do? and can I pull memory out of an old computer as a stop gap until I get new cards?
Thanks.Removing system memory chips will not lead to a loss of Data...
More INFO on what you want to accomplish and on what system and someone will be along shortly...OKAY thank you.do you mean space on your hard drive?
or do you mean memory modules?
you can remove memory modules because they have what is called VOLATILE memory.
this means that when the computer is shut off the lose everything on them anyway.
a hard drive, on the other hand, will HOLD all of the saved information.
so we need to know what you are trying to do.

My hp printer Deskjet 6840 will not PRINT. JOBS GO into idle . I can stop jobs, delete jobs but cannot print. HELP.

Hi all,

I found a good DEAL for a laptop computer with the following charact. What do you THINK?

thank you.
air

Hewlett Packard
HP Compaq Business Notebook 6715s
Mobile Sempron 3800+ / 2.2 GHz
RAM 1 GB -
HDD 120 GB -
DVD±RW (+R 2 livelsi) / DVD-RAM
Radeon X1250
WLAN : 802.11a/b/g, Bluetooth 2.0 EDR
Vista Home Basic - 15.4" Panoramic screen TFT 1280 x 800 ( WXGA

or

ACER
ASPIRE EXTENSA 5620g-5a2g25mi
CPU INTEL CORE DUO C2DT5450
RAM 2 ddr 1024 MB
MEMORY 250 GB
GRAPHIC CARD
WIN VISTA


there's really not enough info to give a good critique about either one of those laptops. Can you post the links to them?...and with Vista, look for 2GB of RAMAt least 2GB*

what are you going to be USING the laptop for?
Thank you for the answers.

The laptop is for my cousin. Word/excel/emails/internet surfing. It should allow 4 gb ram.

Link is in Italian.

Thank you again.

air

Hello,

I was having problems resurecting my laptop that would not boot up. I decided to try a few things in the BIOS. I enabled in the BIOS WAKE on LAN. Now only my power light blinks and I cannot get the computer to power on to get back into the BIOS. I'm REALLY at a loss of what to do? Please help.

This is a toshiba Satellite 1415-S173 laptop.did you try unplugging the power cord and battery and then PLUG the power back in? Good FIRST step.I really don't think anyone cared, but I do have it back up and running. A little time to let the dust settle and it booted up today.

How can parallel ports be USED using JOYSTICKS instead of keyboard to play a game (made with Turing programming STAFF)? So again how can we use Parallel ports, the game, and a joystick to work together. By the WAY the joystick is very simple and it just has four keys.(up, down, right and left) One additional information:
I WANTED to know how you can use joysticks to work with turing instead of keyboardWhat type of joystick is it? USB? Serial port? Other?In addition to what joystick, what game are we talking about? OS? Full hardware specs? Much more info is needed.

Hey everyone. I'm having some problems with my COMPUTER. Here's my situation.

I turned on my computer, and upon loading up with the windows loading screen, my screen turned off and said 'No Signal'. I tried again thinking something must have happened. It did the same thing. After hours of trying all I could think of, I had no choice but to restart the whole system.

I reloaded windows, and it all loaded up. So far, so good. All that was LEFT was to install the video CARD. Half way through installing the video card DRIVER, the screen went funny (flashing a couple of moments), then turned off and said 'No Signal'.

I was now very confused. I tried again, but to no anvil. I know what you're thinking: 'Ah, must be the video card then.' Alas, I went and bought a new video card. I put it in and reinstalled windows. Half way through installing the driver, the screen went funny, turned off and said 'No Signal'.

Help, someone, help! I don't know what's happened.

EDIT: EVERYTHING was working fine (as it has been for the last year) until yesterday.Did you try to put video card in another slot?What's the make and model of all of your hardware?

I have a case that is several years old so i bought a new ONE.
When I transfer the components and start it up i GET 1 long loud beep and nothing coming up on my computer monitor. (sometimes a get more than 1 long loud beep).

Obviously i thought perhaps the power supply is bad BUT all the fans are spinning, lights WORKING...
My computer even makes its normally loading sounds complete with windows start up noise etc at the appropriate time.

I have no idea what the problem could be. When i transfer my components back to my old case it works fine EXCEPT the odd time i get a bug while starting something like
Please re-setting CPU Frequency in the CMOS setup

HARDWARE ETC:
Operating System: Windows HE with the latest service packs
Motherboard: Nforce4 A939
Processor: CPU AMD 3200+
Video Card: Geforce 6600 GT
RAM: 2 gigs
CASE: old one is 230W, new one is 420W

Any ideas?Well after transfering my computer to my new case to the old one back and forwards 20+ times i have gotten it to work now.

For reference these are the THINGS i made sure i did this time / changes i made.

1) I made sure all the MOBO standoffs were in the correct holes including no screws in the gaps in my MOBO where there is no corresponding case screw.

2) I bent my video card metal strip thing so that i can get it better into the slot (which means i cant screw it in as it is now).
I dont know whether it is possible to have the video card partially in so that you get power/fan only?

3) I havent installed my case fan.

Sounds like something just wasn't in right. Depending on the motherboard manufacturer, the beeps could mean different things.

I advise you screw the card in though.

I have a Compaq Presario R3000 that's about THREE years old, running Windows XP with an AMD processor, 40 GB hard drive and about 1 GB RAM. About six months ago, whenever I turned it on, it would occasionally seem to freeze at the initial loading screen, the one that says "Compaq." You can do nothing to get it past that except cut the power to the computer and reboot it; I've tried hitting every key, COMBINATIONS of keys, waiting half an hour, nothing works. When you do reboot it, it comes up with various computer goobley-gook, and the messages that the system time and date are invalid, and that the computer did not FINISH loading on the previous attempt. When Windows opens, the date and time have reset to Jan. 1, 2003, 12:00 am. I formatted the computer in an attempt to fix this, but it did no good.
This is in addition to the fact that there are issues with the sound; for about the last year, it has a tendency to randomly cut out. I listen to a lot of music on my computer, but the sound will just suddenly stop. All the setting show that there should still be sound coming from it. Rebooting it doesn't help; you have to give it an actual physical jar to get it working again. I figured it was a loose connection or something. But it's been happening more frequently.
In addition to that, when I open up my "My Documents" folder, the files are SCATTERED around in random order. I can right click and select to organize them by name, but it only halfway works; it won't organize the files at top, they're mixed in with everything else, and they're not in order.
I also write stories, and I had one that had three chapters finished that I had to let sit for a while. When I came back to it, half the first chapter was gone, all but two paragraphs of the second was deleted, and half the third chapter was gone.
I have Trend Micro Antivirus on here (not my preference, but required by my college) and I defrag the computer regularly. I'm suspecting there are motherboard issues, hard drive issues, or both. Any help or opinions?Wow...

With this array of problems it SOUNDS like more than one thing going out. Files vanishing could be the result of a virus or a faulty hard drive. Physically jarring the laptop having an effect on the sound would indicate a physical connection problem as you suspected. Getting stuck at the Compaq loading screen could either indicate a problem locating the hard drive or a motherboard problem.

To be honest, it sounds like the thing is on its way downhill. You might be in the market for a new laptop before long.Yeah, I've been figuring that. I'm using what little money I can earn this summer to buy a new laptop - I was considering an Acer. I won't be buying another Compaq.

Yes, you can upgrade a few things. But it is better to take that money and put it into a new laptop instead of upgrading the old machine.

Quote from: ellanon on April 28, 2008, 08:53:51 PM

Figures. I'll have to live with it then until I can afford a new one. THANKS guys!

Luckily you still have basic use of the computer, you just won't be able to use any of the hardware acceleration features of the card.

You will NEED to check Intel's SITE to SEE the proper operating temps for that CPU....they are all DIFFERENT.

Hey, well my problem is, about 2 days ago my USB ports started playing up and not recognizing anything, then I READ somewhere to disconnect power for a few MINS then turn on the comp, and that made them work again, but then today my comp decided to freeze completely for no reason at all (I'm not sure if they are linked or anything though). I wasn't doing anything at the time (I had things open but I wasn't like clicking on stuff or anything), so I restarted it and it got stuck on one of the start up screens. I can get into windows, but then most of the time it freezes again after a few mins, and some times when I restart it again its fine, other times it freezes starting up. I had done a lot of scans with anti-virus etc programs yesterday and they found nothing, It's never done this before and it just did it out of the blue which is confusing. But one thing I have noticed is on the very first start up screen (where you press delete to go to the BIOS settings) it says my CPU is 1.8ghz, it's also said it was 2.8ghz and 3.2ghz (3.2ghz is what it should be) and when I go to properties on my computer it says 2.6ghz, and the program CPU-Z says 2.6ghz as well. Thankfully its given me enough time to write this, I'm thinking (but hoping not) that the CPU may be on its way out (its like 4? years roughly old), everything else seems fine from what I've noticed apart from it reading it wrong and freezing randomly which is making me unsure.

ANY help would be greatly appreciated

It's a Pentium 4 505 3.2ghz CPUwhat are your CPU temps? is your heatsink clean and is the fan running?I'm not sure what its temperature is (or how to tell), but yeah i re applyed a layer of thermal paste on the CPU and the heatsink (which is the Thermalright ultra-120 eXtreme heatsink) after it started playing up (i was cleaning out the case and decided to do that to), and yeah the fan is working.download and run core temp.

http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/

this will give you your CPU temp.it says this when i go to install it "this is not an intel "core" architecture based processor. the program will not continue" :/ got another program i could use?hmmm...you might have to view your core temperature in your BIOS, however, it will not give you the core temperature while under load.

you could try speedfan

http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php

however i have no EXPERIENCE with the program.yeah i found that out and was watching it for a bit yesterday, it was staying between 36 degrees and 39 degrees, then as usual everything froze, ive never had a problem with it over heating before though :/Does the case have several fans or anything???If it froze at 39 degrees I don't think it is heat related. yeah it has 2 at the back and 1 at the front, and one on the heat sink on the cpu, and sometimes when i try starting it up it makes noises like its trying hard to start up, and i found out the nosies were coming from the dvd drive, so i took that out and decided to see if the ram was ok as well, so i took one stick of ram out each time i started the comp up (the dvd drive is removied at this time), and each time i started it the very first screen to come up once i turn it on said my CPU was 3.2ghz so i thought that was really good, but it froze again each time after just logging into windows, but then it gave me the blue error screen, it said "MEMORY_MANAGEMENT STOP: 0X0000001A (0X00041785, 0XC0E00000, 0X0000E824, 0X00000000)". and i looked around a bit and it seems whoever has got that message has windows 200, but i have XP, it also started giving the wrong readings of my CPU once all 3 sticks of RAM where back in, i dunno if thats coincedence or what though :/, i feel like im getting closer to FIXING it Smiley thx everyone for your help so farhttp://support.microsoft.com/kb/929338

try these solutions. report back if they dont work.ok, i tryed both the methods that site had, and i also updated my catalyst software suite to the latest one, while i was downloading the updates it didnt freeze or anything which i thought was good , but its still having problems starting up (like trying to turn on and trying a few times to start) and reading the CPU differently, ive tryed another power supply in the comp and it does the same thing :/ its still freezing as well, and also this time once i logged in it gave a message saying "microsoft (or windows) has recovered from a serious error" something like that, and i copied the 2 files it mentioned on the report (like sysdata.xml and something with minidump in the name), i took a screen shot of the error and like some random numbers/letters on it but then the comp froze be4 i could save it Sad

at the moment, when ever i try turn it on, its sorta just sits idle, like nothing will show up on the screen and it doesnt make any of the noises/beeps it makes when its starting up properly, like it TURNS on, everything lights up and stuff, it makes some noises (might be fans starting) but just sits there idle :/im starting to think that your motherboard or CPU is dying/dead.

try reseating the CPU. if possible, try your CPU on another computer that supports it. also try physically examining your motherboard. look for any burnt components or impregnated/leaking capacitors.hmmm well i took my otherboard out and cleaned as much of the dust off as i could, and i took the CPU out and got all the dust away from there to, then i put it back in and plugged all the cords in and made sure they were in right and not loose or anything. Then i started it up and it seems fine, like it read the CPU as 3.2ghz, and so i used it for a bit then decided to try download a game ive wanted to download for a while, i did that and it was on for a few hours, but then i got up to do something and accidently nocked the bottom front corner of the case, and it restarted Sad. From that point on it read the CPU lower then what it should be, and i tested to see if it did anything if i nocked it in the same spot again, and each time i nocked it, it just froze Sad. maybe a loose cable? I dunno but i'm gonna take it to a computer shop now and hope they can fix it Smiley but thanks homer for all your help has been really good Smileyyour very welcome san mateo. it does sound like there is a loose wire in there somewhere.

ok i got a new case new motherboard and a new hard drive
so i go to put in xp the thing is its not real i got off some dude for 5 bucks
anyway iam installing it and the dam thing slows down at a part where it says its coyping
fill to my instation floder but it stops at 72% and says cant install fill press ESC for skip this fill so i press it but it keeps doing that for every file and takes for ever to load the file and to tell me to press esc
i have vista but it will not start only from xp
help in need of help new person in need of helpI'm guessing your PROBLEMS started when you bought a copy of XP from "some dude" for $5, but I'm no expert...Check your RAM is seated properly and that it is compatible with your motherboard. Failed INSTALLS of XP accompanied by failure to copy named files can sometimes be a POINTER to RAM troubles.

Also, the policy of this forum is not to encourage piracy.
Sounds like you got your money's worth...., how many of those did you make quaxo?Quote from: homer on April 28, 2008, 05:08:59 PM

, how many of those did you make quaxo?

I am TRYING to burn an audio cd using wmp....when I try to burn I get an error stating that the device is busy. I have checked my temp files and cleaned the out, tried disabling and reenabling the cd rom, tried different discs, nothing. I run windows xp. Help me please...I am sure there is an EASY solution...just can't figure it out. THANKS!!DLoad and install CDBurnerXPPro which is FREE and give that a shot...
WMP has issues....wow,

It looks like it may be working......too bad I didn't try your suggestion before I emailed all the SONGS one by one to my son and burned them on his computer. LOLQuote from: kali on April 29, 2008, 03:00:29 PM

too bad I didn't try your suggestion before I emailed all the songs one by one to my son and burned them on his computer. LOL

I'm BUILDING a computer from scratch. I've already got the mobo combo picked out Abit AN52V Motherboard CPU Bundle - AMD Athlon 64 X2 6400+ Processor 3.20GHz Retail, the RAM is Patriot 2048MB PC5400 DDR2 667MHz Memory, 320GB HDD, and a 650 watt PS but i need some help choosing the video card. I've got 2 PCI slot and 1 PCI express slots. Its mainly going to be used 4 gaming so i would like a card with either 256 or 512 memory. the CHIPSET on the mobo is nvidia if that matters. price is not too much of an issue but i would like to KEEP it below 300. I need a card that will run games like assassins creed and elderscrolls oblivion to name a few. The video card must have Pixel Shader 3 and Vertex Shader 3. Any help would be greatly appreciated.why did you purchase DDR2 667, why not 800?

as for the video card, here are a few under $300 starting from the best performance to above average performance.

9800gtx @ $290
8800gts 512mb @$250
9600gt @ $180.does it matter that they are SLI and my mobo isn't?nope, you just will not be able to use that feature.thanks now if i can find one with vgai believe they all COME with DVI to VGA adapters. if they dont, you can simply purchase them.what about this one? EVGA GeForce 8800 GS Superclocked Video Card - 384MB GDDR3, PCI Express 2.0, SLI Ready, (Dual Link) Dual DVI, HDTVthe 8800gs and the 9600gt are fairly close in price, but the 9600gt performs way better. an added note, i personally do not buy factory overclocked video cards as they tend to cost way more then the non overclocked versions. also, overclocking the video card is something you can easily do at home for free.this one is the same price as the one thats not oc'ed and they are both 109 at Tiger Direct. the 9600s are around 219. is there a big difference between 384mb and 512 as far as graphics wise?the 9600gt's are $182.95 according to tiger direct.
Quote

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3612203&CatId=3585

is there a big difference between 384mb and 512 as far as graphics wise?

I replaced a 20gb hard drive out of my pace tv recorder, with someting LARGER, and then fitted the smaller one in to a USB hard drive case.
When I plug it in to the pc, is recognises it as a new device, but I cannot 'see' it on list of drives to which I can save. Does it need formatting? If so, how do I do this?DEPENDS on the system it was used in for TV recording...
They all use different formats.
More Info.It is a pace TWIN recorder - not a skybox; I don't know what systemAs i suspected that drive needs to be "unlocked " before formatting and using it...

http://www.pvruk.co.uk/upgrades.cfm...up_pacetwin.cfm
Good Luck. Your mileage MAY vary...

hello ,

I have just got a Forsa G-force 6600 video card I installed it in its PCIe slot like i was supposed to
when i started the PC back up the resolution on it didn't show what the full resolution capability of 2048 x 1536 @85 Hz. Would this be because of the monitor i am using. I am using Windows xp home

here are the spec. of the video card

• Powered by GeForce® 6600 GPU
• 0.11 micron process technology
• PCI-Express x16 interface SUPPORT
• 8 Pixels/Clock Rendering Pipeline
• 400MHz RAMDACs support
• 2048x1536 resolution at 85Hz
• Highest DVI output up to 1600x1200 resolution
• Integrated full MPEG encode and DECODE support Integrated NTSC & PAL TV encoder
　output up to 1024x768 resolution
• Integrated HDTV encoder provides analog TV-output (Component/Composite/S-Video)
　up to 1080i resolution


• NVIDIA® CineFX™ 3.0 engine
• 64-bit texture filtering support delivers full-speed, high dynamic-range (HDR) lighting
　effects
• Unmatched image quality delivered through new 16x anisotropic filtering and rotated grid
　antialiasing
• 4x shadow processing power with NVIDIA® UltraShadow™ II for next generation games
• Infinite program length allows for a new class of special effects
• Hardware-accelerated MPEG and WMV9 decode delivers smooth, artifact-free video
• Dedicated video hardware reduces CPU utilization and improves overall system
　performance
• On-chip video encoder and motion estimation engine provides fast, high-quality encoding
　from TV tuner
• Programmable video engine ensures compatibility with future video codecs
• High-quality video scaling and filtering improves playback quality at any window size
• PCI Express support accelerates video editing by speeding up data TRANSFER rates
• Integrated HDTV-output brings content from your desktop to your high-definition TV
• NVIDIA® ForceWare™ software delivers unmatched features and rock-solid stability
• High dynamic-range (HDR) rendering
• NVIDIA® UltraShadow™ II technology
• NVIDIA® Intellisample™ 3.0 technology
• NVIDIA® ForceWare™ Unified Driver Architecture (UDA)
• NVIDIA® nView™ multi-display technology
• NVIDIA® Digital Vibrance Control™ 3.0
• On-chip video processor
• 64-bit floating point texture filtering and blending
• Microsoft®DirectX®9.0 Shader Model 3.0 support
• OpenGL® 1.5 support
• NVIDIA® SLI™ multi-GPU ready

thank you
Robert
Have you installed the latest drivers for that card ? ?
What are your AGP SETTINGS @ in the BIOS ? ?
Post the details on the monitor as well....rrssrs


yes i checked on the forsa's web site and they say i have the latest drivers installed. I will have to get the spec. on the monitor later i am not where the monitor is at this moment.




thank you for you respones
robert

is the cable in the back of your monitor VGA or DVI?

Blue or white ended?
NOT ADMIN


It is VGA with the Blue end

Hi, i volunteered to help fix an old but still usual laptop, a Micron NBKU360 TransPort Trek. I would like to REMOVE the HD, but i cannot find a way to get to it. Unlike most laptops, there is no access panel, and the only tabs are for the battery and the DVD rom.
Here http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/showimage.aspx?gid=519492&ppid=1122&image=123753995&images=123753319,123753382,123753456,123753546,123753660,123753775,123753896,123753995,123754093,123754187,123754255,123754376,123754493,123754579,123754697,123754812,123754887,123757582,123757683,123757825&formats=0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0&format=0pics are pics of what it looks like from a seller on ebay. If someone has ever opened ONE of these let me know. I want to take the screws out but the owner wants to avoid that.

The software problem is that the entire Windows folder has been deleted, and she has lost her Windows 98se disk that she bought. I was able to save all the rest of the data to an external drive by using a copy of knoppix. This company is really tight on information.I USED the serial number
from the one on E-Bay.

http://support.mpccorp.com/apps/complist.asp?SerialNo=1271759-0010

http://support.mpccorp.com/apps/compdet.asp?partno=HDI001176-00If there is no hatch to remove the hard drive, you'll have little other choice other than opening the entire case to remove the hard drive.

If you choose to go this route, keep the screws well organized and keep a written list of where each screw and piece came from came from as well as any other pieces that have to come out, as I've had to remove as many as 25 screws to get a hard drive out of a laptop before (Toshiba Libretto U100).Thanks! I tried using the serial # before from the one i am working on but it would not go. From the link street1 very helpfully provided (but only if i used IE (not FF). i found a manual and a link that tells how to replace memory + the HD. http://primus.mpccorp.com/mknowledge/publisher.dll?sid=8.0x0093BC00&page=4&id=mknowledge:1.0.176544060.3019188

It says you must take the screws out. But i also found that it has a 12.7 mm IDE Hard Drive rather than the now standard 2.5" 9.5mm, but some 2.5 external enclosures will not fit those. But doesn't this only refer to the enclosure, not the CONNECTOR? ttp://cgi.ebay.com/USB-2-0-2-5-Hard-Driver-Enclosure-for-PC-MAC-Notebook_W0QQitemZ130218144219QQcmdZViewItem12.7mm refers to the height of the drive, it has nothing to do with the connector. If an external box isn't at least as high as the drive, it won't fit in the case.

Speaking of cases, don't get that one you linked. I've got that exact one sitting here in the shop. It's a generic piece of crap. Get a decent shock resistant case.Thanks for the confirmation quaxo, and ADVICE. I expected that an enclosure that cheap would be cheap, but right now funds are low and i do not expect to use it much.

I bought a cheap 20.00 external 3.5 pata enclosure about a year ago and i took it out of the case anyway so I can attach my DVD burner on it. Maybe i should have just gotten one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/USB-To-IDE-2-5-3-5-5-25-Adapter-Cable-Enclosure-Ci_W0QQitemZ330231360801QQcmdZViewItem

After using it for a few months i had to solder a better 4 pin power connector on it. Works fine now. I will wait a few days and see what i can get for a better 2.5 ext. enclsr. Thanks again.

my daughter is set on buying a laptop, in LOOKING from sony to dell to toshiba, etc,
which one's would be considered to be more reliable, or more prone to PROBLEMS, should she also get one of these additional coolers, that fit under the computer, are those really any help, should she find one with vista, or would xp be better, its kind of like looking for a car, thank you if you can shed any light on this, also if she gets one from a store like staples or office depot, should she purchase additional warranty, thanksI am not sure which ones are the best. I have a dell and I am satisfied. I think SONY is good, but they are expensive.

From what I have read, those coolers work pretty good. If she will be using her laptop on her ahh lap, I think the cooler is a good idea. If nothing else it helps to keep the vents open, although I just use a small board.

Unless there is some program that she uses that absolutely needs XP. I would go with VISTA. I have a friend who's daughter was buying a laptop for collage. She had to stay with XP because of some program she needed to run at school.

When I bought a laptop for my son, I bought the additional warranty because it covered the screen for accidental damage (If he dropped it and broke it, it would replace or fix it) A laptop for a collage bound CHILD is one of the few times I agree with the additional warranty, assuming it covers accidental damage. additional warranty is good.

Something like what the following link shows seems good but I don't KNOW about the budget that you are limited to.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834147654


And if you use newegg, they can get you your product in 2 business days and you can also buy extra warranty if you want.Personal experience and opinion:

Both of the Toshiba computers I've owned and all the ones I've worked on were great. Durable and long lasting. Never had to fix a hardware problem on any of them.

HP and Acer laptops aren't bad, especially if you're on a budget. You get what you paid for.

Sony laptops are overpriced. Everyone that I've KNOWN that bought one had it die within 6 months of their warranty expiring.

I've had an ASUS laptop for a year now, and so far I'm impressed.

IBM laptops were (in my opinion) good until Lenova got a hold of them. Not sure how they are now, I haven't had the chance to work with one.

Keep in mind that's my personal experience and may not reflect what you will experience with any of these products.I bought a gateway laptop about 2 years ago and I've been very happy with it. Dells are good too. I agree with quaxo sonys are over priced