Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

That's not exactly saying the same thing...nor does it qualify the statement...
I eat pancakes...but they all don't have blueberries in them.
And i like the ones WITHOUT blueberries as much as the ones with...Quote from: kpac on February 08, 2010, 02:10:24 PM

Well is it not known that NVIDIA CARDS are usually paired with Intel CPUs?

http://www.scan.co.uk/MindMap/AMD
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/mfrList.php?mfrid=156

That's not exactly saying the same thing...nor does it qualify the statement...
I eat pancakes...but they all don't have blueberries in them.
And i like the ones without blueberries as much as the ones with...

PC failed, had disk ERRORS and corrupt version of windows.
repaired disk and reinstalled XP Pro including SP2, all good until I re-boot then I GET

"Insufficient system resources exist to complete the API" and it re-boots again (and again and again.......)

This isn't the known hibernate issue that also gives the same message.
PC has 2.5 GB on board and from what I can see, good mother board, power etc

Anyone any thoughts?Try CLEANING the XP CD with a soft lint free cloth...
Try another CD...
Also try removing 1 of the RAM sticks which can then be re-installed after a succesful install...XP LOADED successfully
I have tried removing all memory sticks in different COMBINATIONS with no luck
Anyone any other thoughts?If XP loaded successfully you wouldn't have that error message...
See above.OK, Thanks.
I will try that

I am in the market for a NEW COMPUTER case. Ideally, I would like a case with the following features:
- FILTERS! I want this case to be as dust free as possible, as I am sick and tired of cleaning out my heatsink.
- Vertical thermal design I have seen a few NZXT cases and I must say I am a huge fan the cooling concept behind a few of them. When I say Vertical, I mean the PSU is on the BOTTOM of the case, venting it's hot air upwards. This column of hot air is contributed to by the Motherboard, video card and CPU, all of which are oriented so the PCI SLOTS and ports on the motherboard are facing upwards, allowing a third party CPU cooler designed to force air out the back of the case to force air out of the top of the case. Air intake is primarily from the bottom/front of the case, which is where the hard drives are positioned.
- Relatively quiet.
- Either stunning appearance, or minimalistic look.
- No "front door" covering the optical drives/front panel ports.

I was wondering if anybody had heard of a case matching this description. If not, I was wondering if anybody had heard of any reference material I could use to build such a case. I have done some shopping myself, but the vertical thermal design I have found to be something that is not very well advertised, if advertised at all.

Thanks for your input.
IanBudget ? ?

That's where i usually start when shopping...Ideally, I was thinking no more than $200. Beyond that I would find it more practical to build an alternative.

But I want to know something like this exists as much as I want to own one.

Thanks,
IanThis is just an opinion but to me i wouldn't spend that much on a case...i'd rather throw that cabbage towards other components...
But if money is no object i'm sure there are some pretty sweet cases out there in that range.


Here's a review on a case i spent less than a Hundred on that is well designed...strong and has great ventilation...
Not saying this should be your choice...just food for thought.

I am installing a solid state disk for the first time. I plan on installing it like I would install a regular hard drive.

Is this the correct way to do this?
Should I form partitions on the drive like I would any other?
How much room should I leave empty on the disk?

OS Windows 7 Pro
I was also planning on putting Microsoft office 2007 and a game or two on the drive.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167023

I also am not sure how to use trim on the disk. Is this a laptop ? ?
That's a laptop HDD...It is a laptop HDD, or a 2.5" drive. However, it Includes an installation kit that CONTAINS: a 3.5" desktop drive bay adapter.

Regarding Trim, I get the impression from http://blogs.msdn.com/e7/archive/2009/05/05/support-and-q-a-for-solid-state-drives-and.aspx that's it's enabled by default with Win 7. Quote

However, it Includes an installation kit that contains: a 3.5" desktop drive bay adapter.

As the SSD is the fastest drive in your system this only makes sense.

[...]

Remember...you just bought one of the fastest drives on the market...take full advantage of that.

My second drive consists of two 320GB drives striped. I have heard or read, I can't remember which that you should not put your paging file on a raid array. Is this accurate?

Having the swap file on the SSD can lead to performance degradation. SSDs are getting faster all the time but still the biggest slowdown on SSD hardware is with small random writes.

This along the lines of what I have read about leaving the swap file on the SSD. That the flash memory has a limited number of read writes per cell, and this can lead to performance problems in the future.

I have went to login to my OLD computer to find the cd drive is not showing when going into the device manager its showing INSTALLED but not correctly. I have removed and reinstalled the DRIVER but has not work.
Computer - Acer L3600
OS - Vista home 32bit
Device - Matshita DVD UJ 875s ATA

I have searched on the Acer website for the driver and on google but not been able to find it anyone able to help?

thanks Managed to solve this

1. Click Start, and then click Run.
2. In the Open box, type regedit, and then click OK.
3. Locate and then click the following registry subkey:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE/System/CurrentControlSet/Control/Class/{4d36e965-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}
4. On the File menu, click Export.
5. In the File name box, type savedkey, and then click Save.
6. Click the REG_MULTI_SZ data type UpperFilters, and then click Delete on
the Edit menu. When you are prompted to confirm the deletion, click Yes.
1) The above registry change should solve your problem
2) Optical Drives do not need drivers - STOP playing with them.

i have a compaq presario sr1917cl, when i turn it on the fans turn on ,but the monitor does not come on.it also beeps about three beeps over & over. i have changed monitor & monitor cable , i tried changing power supply
with no luck. how can i tell if HDD is bad or motherboard.
thanks in advance for any help3 beep repetitions indicates a RAM problem...although your bios codes may be different

Power down the COMPUTER... Unplug it.. Remove the ram and re-seat it..Try powering up..

If no joy there, start the computer with only one module of ram at a time.. If it starts up with one module but not another, then you've found the CULPRIT ram module...Go to the website of your bios provider and check the beep codes.Quote from: EEVIAC on February 22, 2010, 06:32:13 PM

3 beep repetitions indicates a ram problem...although your bios codes may be different

Power down the computer... Unplug it.. Remove the ram and re-seat it..Try powering up..

If no joy there, start the computer with only one module of ram at a time.. If it starts up with one module but not another, then you've found the culprit ram module...

Okay y'all I need some computer help. I've got a 15in flat panel dell monitor. It's never been dropped or anything spilled on it. The last week or so whenever I GO to turn my monitor on it won't turn on fully; the screen and the light by the power button just begin to flash on and off every SECOND or so. For a few days I tried unplugging it and replugging it or wiggling the power cord and it would power back on. Now that's getting harder to do. Now I have to wiggle the cord and unplug several times for several minutes and sometimes it still won't come on and I just give up and try later. I plan to try a new power cord to see if that works. Does that sound right or does it sound like the monitor is dying? I sure as heck can't afford a new one. Thanks in ADVANCE!

Update: Ok so I tried a new power cord and it's still flashing. My FRIEND MENTIONED that it may not be my monitor at all but a bad video card. Does this sound right? Help please!

Last night my computer WENT crazy and the MOBO is now fried, so i took the hard drive that was WORKING fine out of it and put it into my gateway gt5028. It boots up fine and when it GETS to the screen where it asks if i want to boot normally or with safe mode enabled, the second i click either safe mode or normal a blue screen pops up and tells me that there is something wrong with my hard drive. I put in an old computer and it works fine.

Any help would be appreciated, thnx!Quote from: Tanner101 on February 10, 2010, 08:06:16 AM

a blue screen pops up

Basically, I have a Gateway netbook -- an LT3103u. I've been through *censored* with it. I'm about to ship it to Texas for repair for the third time, but before I did I wanted to post this:

The main issue I have with it, right now, is this -- whenever there is an excess AMOUNT of programs running, if you leave the computer to sit and let the screen turn off, and then you go to move the mouse, the computer will have difficulty coming BACK -- it'll be beyond sluggish, and somehow the power settings reset by themselves, and occasionally the processor speed settings will somehow be set to 0% for the minimum and maximum processor speed in the power settings. How do I fix this without just disabling the screen from turning off? (I think it would also happen even by disabling it, too) It can't be the wifi CARD or hardrive, as these both have been replaced by Gateway tech, and yet the PROBLEM still EXISTS. Could it be the motherboard or processor?


Specs:
Gateway LT3103u
AMD Athlon 64 Processor 1.20 GHz
2.00 GB RAM
ATI Radeon Graphics card
32-bit Vista Home Basic

I have a Canon MP520 printer and I have been told that the MP610 is a very similar machine.

I am wondering if the CD DVD Tray (Tray F) that FITS the 610 will by chance also FIT my 520?

Thanks.Have you thought about contacting Canon and asking them?They are never going to acknowledge anything that is outside their advertised specs, and the chances are that it will need some minor adjustment if it is do-able. I also had to go into Service Mode and alter the Region to EUR (EUROPE) from AUS (AUSTRALIA) and re-install the driver to activate Print To CD in the Paper Source, which they would also not be happy with.

I have all the required specs & i have tried everything to get it to boot. I cleared my cmos and removed all other pci units. Im TRYING to install a ATI HD 5450 on an Asus A8r-32 mvp deluxe.

Ok so this is what i have done: I can put in my old x1600 and it will boot up and run fine, but when i put in my new hd5450 it will not boot at all. No beeps no bios screen... just flashing BLANK screen. All fans run and there is power. I have 550w it requires 400. I know the hd5450 works because i put it on my other comp and it runs fine. Any ideas? I NEED HELP!Quote

i put it on my other comp and it runs fine. Any ideas?

I highly doubt this has anything to do with IRQ settings..
Almost everything is plug-in-play compatible these days..

Don't bet on it!!

ok, will not bet
anyway, the bios is not reachable according to the OP, so he cannot check anyway..

I am needing help with this Airlink 101. My old laptop got dropped on our KITCHEN tile floor and monitor & case got BROKEN beyond repair. So we bought a new laptop and I wanted to salvage files and photos from old laptop hd. I bought a Airlink 101 2.5" SATA ENCLOSURE, put hd in enclosure and nothing wasn't coming up. It was my understanding it was a plug & play! Under Computer management - > Disk management it is showing "Disk 1" with a red down error, "Unknown" "Not intialized". So I try to initialize it by MBR or the other option (GTU?) and the Logical Disk Manager says "Incorrect function". Is there any one that can explain what I am doing wrong? BTW - I have two other PCS with XP but this enclosure does not show up at all! Only on new laptop with VISTA

A friend's older laptop only has one USB port (USB 1.1) and he WANTS to use a webcam that requires USB 2.0 I have always thought that USB is determined by hardware and is not changeable. Am I CORRECT? If it is software changeable, what does he need to do to make the CHANGE? ThanksYou are correct...Hardware only.
He would need a USB2.0 PCMCIA card...not sure it's worth the money.

I recently BOUGHT and installed an nVidia GTX 275 AND downloaded the latest drivers. It runs AMAZINGLY compared to my old Radeon x1650. Although I seem to have RUN into a problem.....my openGL isn't working. Adobe CS4, Maxon Cinema 4D, Cinebench.....they all cannot use openGL. The card supports it, but it's not working. I'm running 64 BIT Windows 7. Any suggestions on how to sort this out?

how to REBOOT computer. I THINK the hard disc is not detected... thanks in advanceyou'll need to post more info..

What's the make/model of the computer?

And, DESCRIBE the symptoms of your problem, in detail.Quote from: night-rider on February 23, 2010, 08:55:56 PM

how to reboot computer. I think the hard disc is not detected... thanks in advance

My wife has a G60 laptop which has decided today not to boot up at all. I have TRIED the vista boot up disk, running in safe mode, recovery, and restore, none of these will fire it up. No software has been loaded recently.

The FAN runs, the disk runs, the hard DRIVE does not appear to run. I have carried out a Hard drive test it says ok.

Tried with battery out no change.
Has anyone any ideas?
Thanks
JC Does it boot to the Vista DVD ?
What did you use for the HDD test ? ?The hard drive test was internal, I have managed to boot up from DVD once.

Hello!

I have a hp compaq 6820s notebook. Some time ago I experienced keyboard problems. Everything was ok for more than a year until now. I am using slovenian as a default language from day one. Now, Ctrl and Shift key don't function as they used to. For example: (left) shift + letter = PAGE down instead of a capital letter. (right) shift = delete?!?! The numeric keypad also doesn't work as it should. I cannot use it SINCE it makes NOISE (beeps) when I press 0 or 2 and I can't type numbers because the functions are all mixed up.
I thought it was a software problem. I installed a FRESH copy of Windows Vista Ultimate and there's no change.

I'd really appreciate the help!

Thank you,

Ana (from Slovenia).

I have a choice of two Graphics cards, a HIS X800, or Inno3D 9500 GT. Both are PCIe x16 interface. However, due to the HIS's size and large fan case I cannot ACCESS one of the PCI SLOTS. (This is not a problem with the Inno3D as it is much slimmer) If I install it in my other PC it only covers a PCIe x1 slot which is not required. Can anyone tell me which card is the better spec. etc so I can make an informed decision as to which PC to install it in? Thanks in advance. AlexmaWhether the X800 is the PRO or XT version it will be better than the 9500 GT.alan, The MPN states it is a RX800XLICEQ, 256MB DDR3, if that helps?I feel that the geforce 9500GT is better cuz of it's newer for one, but, compare the two links below to see what you think. (disregard the fact there's more memory on one, and that the manufacturers are different)

X800
9500 GT
According to the specs, the 9500 GT should be the better card. If your motherboard supports PCI Express 2.0, then this card would utilize it. It's DirectX 10, rather than 9, so you're covered there when playing newer games. It supports a higher resolution and is also SLI ready if you decide to buy another one to fill the other PCI slot that won't be hidden under the first card.

All that comes after the fact that the clock speeds and memory is greater on the 9500 GT.Quote from: alexma on February 22, 2010, 04:44:55 PM

alan, The MPN states it is a RX800XLICEQ, 256MB DDR3, if that helps?

Why do some people opt for a higher memory mount on slower memory for the same card?

I mean, if 1gb of ddr2 is put onto a 9500GT and another card exactly the same as first one except it's got 512 of DDR3 memory, they choose the 1gb card. Why?

I currently don't have a Graphic Card and I'm wondering if you can possibly tell me what card is required from the info. provided below. Nothing expensive, PC is a few years old.

MOBO : Intel Model D945GTP

CPU: Intel(R) Pentium(R) D CPU 2.80 GHz
CPU name Intel Pentium D 820

RAM: 2 GB DDR2 (PC2-4300) 1 x 1024 MB 2 x 512 MB

OS: WINDOWS XP Professional Service pack 3

Thank YouQuote from: overthehill on February 11, 2010, 07:52:26 PM

I currently don't have a Graphic Card and I'm wondering if you can possibly tell me what card is required from the info. provided below. Nothing expensive, PC is a few years old.

MOBO : Intel Model D945GTP

CPU: Intel(R) Pentium(R) D CPU 2.80 GHz
CPU name Intel Pentium D 820

RAM: 2 GB DDR2 (PC2-4300) 1 x 1024 MB 2 x 512 MB

OS: Windows XP Professional Service pack 3

Thank You

Thanks for your input. I'll make sure to check the points that you made. I'll take the card to the PC store and see what their techs. think. When it's all said and done I'm sure that they'll talk me into a new card. Thanks again.

...
Now, I know that I have to remove the old drivers before installing the new card.
In Add/Remove Programs I see a) NVIDIA Omega Driver Setup Files
and b) NVIDIA Drivers
because the new card is NVIDIA I'm assuming that these are the files that I have to remove because the old card must have been NVIDIA. Is this correct?

I imagine that the file Intel(R) Graphics Media Accelerator Driver is the one that I'm now using when there is no graphic card installed. This file I do not remove . Is this correct.? Any other help or suggestions would greatly appreciated...

As I said earlier my original card was a ; 3DF 6200LE 128MB
The card that I now have is a; GeForce 210 512MB DDR2 The tech.at Staples assured me that this is a comparable card and should fit right in.

I was able to connect the video from my PC to my LCD TV using a VGA input, but I still cannot figure out how to get audio from my PC to my TV. I bought a Mini RCA Y Cable and connected it to the headphone jack on my PC and ran it to the audio in on my TV, but I'm still not getting sound. I have a hp Pavillion p6210y PC and an INSIGNIA NS-L32Q-10A 32" LCD TV. My computer does not have an S-Video input or an HDMI input, so the only way I can go is VGA unless I upgrade. I'm trying to not to do this, but I am very confused about the audio. Can anyone PLEASE help me? Thank you...Are you sure you've connected it to the Audio input for the correct channel on your TV, if there is one? For example, see if there are any labled audio inputs on the back.
Another solution COULD be, if you can't find anything else, to convert the VGA video to composite video, and connect it through that to your TV by means of an adaptor.

James.Try the audio output on the back of the computer, it usually has a higher level output than the headphone jack.I tried switching it to the audio output on the back of the computer but still nothing. Next the the VGA input on my TV, there is an audio in plug, but it on has a place to plug one cable in and it is green. Since I have the Mini RCA Y Cable, I cannot plug that into it, but I do not know what kind of cable WOULD plug into it. I have tried every single audio input/output port on the back of my TV and it still isn't working. I wish I had a tech in my house to look at it, but I was told from Best Buy that the Mini RCA would work. I just didn't ask what to do if it didn't. Thank you for your help...Quote from: shibbyshannyn13 on March 26, 2010, 03:45:28 PM

Next the the VGA input on my TV, there is an audio in plug, but it on has a place to plug one cable in and it is green. Since I have the Mini RCA Y Cable, I cannot plug that into it, but I do not know what kind of cable WOULD plug into it.

Ok I will definitely try that. I sent my husband out to buy the cable so I will know soon if it works or not. Thank you so much!

I have a W3105 eMachines PC and I am trying to add a NVIDIA GeForce 8400GS graphics card so that I can watch videos on my TV.

I have the card installed as well as the drivers.
I have tried disabling the INTEGRATED card in device manager.
I cannot locate anything that refers to the integrated card in BIOS to shut it down that way.
I've tried starting in safe mode.
I've pretty much tried everything except a fresh install of Windows.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Or can you tell me if you think that the fresh install would do the trick?

Thanks!Disable on board video in the biosQuote from: Allan on February 23, 2010, 12:04:03 PM

Disable on board video in the bios

Then disabling it in device manager should have been the correct solution. Sorry. Have you tried calling the system manufacturer or checking their website forum?

You do have you monitor connected to the new card, right? And, how have you connected your TV, to what port on the card?

Have you searched through every screen in your BIOS? Look for something labeled Primary Graphics Adapter, or AGP ..., etc.

I just built my computer with ASUS M4A785-M mobo and can't figure out how to get rid of these4 lines of "Audio Device on High Definition Audio BUS" under "Other DEVICES" in Device manager. I installed all the DRIVERS from DVD provided including VIA Audio Driver.
Looks like sound WORKS OK (at least I can use my Windows Media Player).
Please help.

[SAVING space, attachment deleted by admin]

I've been trying to gather INFORMATION regarding the recent allegations of price-fixing WITHIN the optical disk drive industry. UNFORTUNATELY, I cannot even find much specific information on the companies SUBPOENAED. Does anyone know what Sony Optiarc, Toshiba Samsung Storage Tech, and Hitachi-LG manufacture or have in COMMON?

Its basically a CRAP idea, I know but then thats the crap I'm stuck with. This 2-core Phenom with the MULTIPLIER locked and a GA-M61PME-S2P which isn't OC FRIENDLY either .

I managed to set FSB=223 and Multiplier=15 which gave a 3345 MHz . But the problem is sometimes (just once or twice out of ~25 attempts) would it START successfully, rest it would just enter BIOS SAFE MODE: SYSTEM DEFAULTS LOADED . What are the possible reasons for that?

when i turn off my lap top the meda light and volume light STAY on. this runs down my battery.Control Panel - Power OPTIONS - Choose what the power buttons do (set the power button to shut down).Quote from: Allan on FEBRUARY 22, 2010, 04:57:32 PM

Control Panel - Power Options - Choose what the power buttons do (set the power button to shut down).

That's not what the op asked. The op asked (well not really asked, but stated) how to turn off the "media light" and the volume light. The power button options can make the computer shut down, not, or ask what to do.

Quote from: jacksjacks53 on March 26, 2010, 02:12:08 PM

go to the DUMP and pick up a few old pcs you can always find them knocking arround, people will throw away everything.
take out hte fans from the old pcs and mount them under your laptop or inside your PC, you could even use the old psu to run them]


will definately help to keep your system nice and cool

go to the dump and pick up a few old pcs you can always find them knocking arround, people will throw away everything.
take out hte fans from the old pcs and mount them under your laptop or inside your pc, you could even use the old psu to run them]

I'm still trying to get over the mental image I got from this suggestion.

Temperature registered at unplugged laptop (battery) @ 791 MHz only & free air:

Core: 55-59°C
Temp1: 76°C

So now it's switched back.
App: SpeedFan

Hi all
Apologies if Ive chosen the wrong forum to POST this in. If thats the case please could someone direct me to a more appropriate one!
Ok, Windows XP would not boot and would not allow me to use the XP Recovery Utility. A message appeared telling me to call the manufacturer helpline(Mesh Computers) for them to assist with a complete reinstall of WIndows XP as this was the only option due to the severity of the 'error'.
I did this(costing £1 per minute!). The operator saved the 'corrupted' version of windows in a file before reinstalling a new instance of windows xp using a recovery cd supplied with the pc.
This new installation is working(though it takes an eternity to boot up- 5 minutes ish?). But all SOFTWARE was removed eg Itunes/messenger and so on. Basically anything that wasnt originally suppied on the PC.
I have found the saved files from the corrupted version-all pictures/music etc is there.
I want to know if it is possible to completely remove the 'old' operating systems without removing all saved data as well.
For example after finding all my music from itunes i reinstalled itunes from the web and then took the file from the old system and dropped it into itunes. I then tried to delete the 'old' file thinking I had resaved these items in itunes but the system threatened to delete from itunes as well.
I need to delete the old files i think as with 2 instances of XP on the computer I think there is no space on the hard drive. For example I tried to download yahoo messenger from the web and it would not complete, saying I needed to free up at least 100mb of space in order to continue....
Ok-if you have got this far through my ramblings....thankyou for that! As you will gather I am clueless!
I would really be grateful for any advice and hope that this scenario sounds familiar...
Thanks again in advance
Darren
Is it just your music files that concern you or are there other files? What is the name and location of the folder that contains your music files?Hi Allan
Thankyou for getting back so quickly. All such items as music/pictures etc seem still to be stored in appropriate files ie my pictures/my videos/my music etc. These are accessed via my computer> d drive.
Before the 'operator' from mesh helped me he explained he would save the corrupted version in a file called windows and created a new file called windows1. The stored data etc is actually not stored in either of these files its in another file called documents and settings.
Ive opened both WINDOWS and WINDOWS1 files and they contain the same sub folders eg add ins, app patch, assembly, config and so on..
Im wondering if I should delete one of these?
Apologies if that isnt really helping.....
Thanks
DarrenEasiest solution is to copy all critical data files (and music files) to either: Off disc media (cd, usb drive, external hd) and then delete the old windows installation and then copy the files back to the system OR move the data in the folders to a folder in the new Windows installation and then delete the old Windows installation. To delete the old Windows, just boot to the new install, open Windows Explorer, and delete the other (old) Windows folder. Don't worry, you cannot delete the folder of the version to which you have booted.Hi Allan
Thanks again for your interest.
I've tried to delete what I think is the old WINDOWS file(I actually tried to delete the other one and the system would not allow it so Im quite sure I've got the right one). The system brought up a grey 'deleting' box but stopped after 30 secs with the progress bar not showing any progress. The error message reads, 'cannot delete flash 10e.ocx:access is denied.'
Sorry Its quite possible Im not giving you the full picture... I SUSPECT I may have to seek some help from someone who can actually access my computer and see what I'm seeing. If there is any best advice you could give me on how to go about this I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks for your time
Cheers
DarrenDownload and run the Adobe Flash Player Uninstaller (http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/141/tn_14157.html), reboot, and try again to delete the old Windows folderYou shouldn't delete Windows.old; Windows1 or any other file folders until the point you are satisfied you have retrieved all your important data...
We cannot SAY for sure how exactly he saved your info and whether the file heirchy is intact or not...

how to integrate sata AHCI controllers in xp cd Google: Slipstream XP DRIVERS
OR
http://www.digitgeek.com/how-to-slipstream-sata-drivers-into-xp-cd/Easiest way is to download and use nlite. They have a great guide on their site.nLite lets you intergrate drivers to XP CD ROMS. You can google search "nLite" and click on the top link, then dowload it and GENERATE a CD image.

It's time to upgrade my ancient HDD for something with a bit more space and oomph! (it's an IDE drive btw).
Don't know yet about the size of it, will have to think about that one.
All l know at the moment is there are brand names out there (ie Western, maxtor etc), drive speeds (ie rpm and seek times) together with CACHE?
So, what would you advise me to look for that has good SPECS.
Thanks
Do you need to stay with an IDE drive, or does your computer also support SATA? The selection of IDE drives on the market is diminishing as SATA continues to grow in usage. Newegg.com's selection of IDE drives is here. Most LIKELY, you be getting a drive that runs a 7200 rpm. And, most drives now have at least 8MB of cache. I would not get one with less than 8MB. So, pick your size and price. Along with the good advice above whether you choose IDE or SATA i'd say based on experience Western Digital or Seagate won't steer you wrong...Im new to the world of building and upgrading systems but at tiger direct I found several ide to sata adapters and sata to ide just not sure how compatible with older systemsAs per usual, thanks for all you help.
Blimey Pata(IDE) and Sata. Does it really mata?
All l know is my motherboard is an MSI MS-6712 which has two ide slots and is running AMI Bios V07.00T (if that helps). The manual and the AMI bios only refer to IDE connections.
I see that nobrains MENTIONED an adaptor from IDE to SATA and l'm wondering whether it's really worth all the hassle in changing. I'm not a great techie and just use the computer for general use.
Is it just as easy as adding this adaptor then? What about the Bios which only has IDE entries in it? Sounds a bit complicated to me!
What l am thinking then is to stick with IDE (WD or Seagate), 7200rpm, and cache of 8mb (thanks for the pointers) unless you really thing l should change to Sata.
ThanksJust buy an IDE HDD...don't screw around with adapters for no reason.Thanks Patio (as ever)
Message understood, over and out.
(ie l'll get an IDE drive with specs mentioned previously)
Thanks mate. No problem WILLY...

I am attaching a script of my Gateways Drives. Drive C is a SSD 65GIG, which as you notice only has 1.4GIGS free. I have called Gateway to inquire about
what I should do because I am running out of space on C. They suggested running the clean utility, which freed up less than a GIG.
Same old Answers. Since my OS is residing on C, i am concerned. GW should have used the Big Drive as primary. Any suggestions?

Computer


Search Computer
Computer

File Edit View Tools Help


Organize System properties Uninstall or change a program Map network drive Open Control Panel


Favorites Hard Disk Drives (2)

Desktop Gateway (C:) Local Disk (D:)

DOWNLOADS
1.70 GB free of 42.5 GB 813 GB free of 931 GB
RecentPlaces
Devices with Removable Storage (1)
Recorded TV

DVD RW Drive (E:) Microsoft
Expression Web 3
Desktop
0 bytes free of 187 MB
Libraries

Documents
Music

Pictures

Videos

Homegroup

Sally (STEVE-PC)

Steve (STEVE-PC)

Steve GW

Computer

Network

Control Panel

Recycle Bin




STEVEGW-PC Workgroup: WORKGROUP Memory: 8.00 GB

Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Qua...



One thing that you could do is uninstall all of the programs that are installed on your C drive. Then reinstall them onto your D drive. You can change the default install directory by doing this:
Make a list of all the programs that you use. Uninstall all programs that are on the C drive then:

* Go to Start—>Run type regedit
click ok

* Now you need to navigate to and select the following key from left pane

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE \ SOFTWARE \ Microsoft \ Windows \ CurrentVersion

* Now You’ll see a ProgramFilesDir entry in you right pane. Change that to whatever is desired. Reboot your computer for the change to take effect.

Then reinstall all of your programs. If it asks where to install then choose d:\Program Files
Thanks, I value the help. Problem is I have 30 programs on the GW. Your welcome. The reason your drive is so full is because you install all of your programs on it. The solid state drive should be used only for the Windows installation in my opinion. I'm just trying to push you in the right direction. You may move the location of "certain" folders to the "D:" drive and then direct the operating system to look there for them. Prime candidates to be moved are:
o My Documents
o My Music
o My Pictures
o My Video

See How to Change the Default Location of the My Documents Folder and/or Use the Tweak UI 2.1 program from Microsoft to do this.

To access TweakUI; Start -> All_Programs ->Power_Toys_for_Windows_XP -> Tweak_UI.

Within the TweakUI program window; expand "My Computer" -> "Special Folders" -> select desired folder from "Folder" pull down MENU -> select "Change Location" BUTTON -> then just follow the yellow brick road...Personally i'd back up everything on the D: drive and format it.
Then use the HDD manuf. FREE utilities to "clone" your C drive to the D drive.
Then remove the C drive and hook up the D as Master and the system will now boot to the LARGER drive with all apps and data intact.
You can then format the old C drive and install it as a slave and use it for extra storage...Thank You!.

hey dude,,,

please help me up with my problem.

I am computer teacher here at liceo de masbate, Philippines and some of the computer i used to it with my student GOT problems, please help me to troubleshoot with the ff. errors

1. My computer wont boot, no beep codes, no display
2. Computer wont boot on start up
3. CPU over voltage errors.

please help me to find SOLUTION with froblems.

Thanks.

You must give much more information. What kind of computer?, make & model?, what operating system?, how old?, fully updated?

Quote

1. My computer wont boot, no beep codes, no display

2. Computer wont boot on start up

3. CPU over voltage errors.

I have a Dell Vostro 1500 computer.
the DVD drive is labeled in the device manager as: PBDS DVD+-RW DS-8WIP ATA device.
when I CLICKED on it the device manager GAVE me this code: This device cannot start (code10).
I tried to update the driver and it said I had the best version of the driver.

When I go into my computer the DVD drive is not even listed.

I am running windows vista 32-bit with service pack 2.

Please HELP me.Is this a new problem? Has this device worked properly before? What did you recently do that may have caused this problem? Such as adding/deleting software/hardware?truenorth
p.s. No drivers are REQUIRED for optical devices.One of these may help:
1. Uninstall the drive through Device Manager.
Restart computer. The drive will be automatically reinstalled.
or...
2. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
Restart computer.
or...
3. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept REGISTRY merge.
Restart computer.
or...
4. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.

Hi all, suddenly my 2GB genx USB flash wouldn't be opened in any computer among those computer I trust for their powerful up-to-date antivirus and USB utilities software. All I get whenever I plug my thumb drive is a CD Drive (I:) icon (or similar, like what's in the attached image_1) and when I try to open it I get something like what's in image_2.
However, most file recovery software were able to restore some files.
I tried using virus scanning, chkdsk, reformatting, plugging on other computers with OS-es other than Windows, but in vain.
Is there any way I can restore what were into my thumb drive?
Thanks.

[Saving space, attachment deleted by admin]1. Disk Management. Attempt to VIEW the disk drive structure in "Disk Management" on a Windows XP (or newer?) system.
a. Was it a U3 flash drive? (That would explain the CD-ROM component.)
b. Does it appear on bottom half of display twice? Both its CD-ROM drive component and its removable disk drive component?
c. What is the capacity for each visible component?

To access: Start -> Run -> type "diskmgmt.msc" without quotes and .

2. You can take a look at the "TestDisk" program. Also Recuva". Try both programs in a "read-only" mode first (meaning don't make any "writes" to the drive). Decide which one, if any, will work for you. Use it first.

Actually, it would be safer to run "Recuva" first as I don't believe it writes to the drive (just tries to recover data). You may also use TestDisk to attempt data recovery; and if that doesn't work, use it to fix the drive (file system).

3. Format? At this point, I would not have formatted the drive. Not yet... I would have tried to "recover" the data first.
a. What do you think a "format" does?
b. Did you "quick" format or "full" format?
c. With what "file system"?
d. What file system was the drive originally formatted with?

4. Reference(s):
a. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Testdisk
b. http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk
c. http://www.piriform.com/recuvaHow does it show in Disk Management ? ?
Right clik My Computer...select Manage...then Disk Management.
You may need to unmoun that Virtual Drive you created for this to work...Hi all, and thanks for your interest
dahlarbear, you can SEE on the attached Disk Management image what I've got after running diskmgmt.msc.
Please know that I've already tried TestDisk (I've been using it for years) with no use, but I'm gonna use Recuva, thanks for the tip.
Also please have a look on what my computer's got (without the afflicted flash drive) in the My Computer image.
patio, you can see what I've got after doing your tip, in the attached Disk Management_2, and the resulting window after I tried to "initialize" the flash, in Disk Management_3.
Also know that the (Virtual CloneDrive G:) is installed under my full control a long time ago, with no problem whatsoever.
As for reformating my flash drive, I'm totally aware that it will erase all data on it, but that's just an attempt to check whether it still works.
P.S. My flash does not have a lock: it cannot physically be "write protected".
P.P.S. Usually I use Windows xp sp2

[Saving space, attachment deleted by admin]At this point, I'd use a Hex editor to view the contents of both the physical flash drive and it's two logical components (CD-ROM, removable disk). You'd probably need to compare the results with a working U3 flash drive (to know what's normal).

I RECOMMEND HxD v1.7.7 (either installable or portable version).Sorry...but according to all4 of those images the flash drive is not even being recognised by Disk Management...What physical devices do "Disk 1", "Disk 2", and "CD-ROM 2" represent (in "Disk Management.jpg" image?

I "assumed" the system was misinterpreting the USB flash drive. I also assumed the drive capacity of 811.84 GB for Disk_1 and Disk_2 was incorrect which led me to believe the volume boot record(s) for the flash drive were corrupt (or in an unknown format).

I thought examining the flash drive from Hex editor might shed some LIGHT on the problem (by examining boot records). I assumed the system is recognizing the device, just not able to recognize the logical volumes (file system structure).

From a practical standpoint, however; it would probably be a waste of time...Disk 0 is his hard drive...which has 3 partitions on it...
Disk1 is the Virtual Clone drive he has created and for some reason is showing up twice...
The rest are optical drives...1 of which could also be the image drive created.

No flash drive is showing up.When you're done with your "data recovery" effort (or give up), the following programs may be used to test the flash drive for read/write errors and/or setup it up for reuse.
a. Check Flash 1.10
b. h2testw 1.4
c. USB Flash Tools - Sara Dean
d. USB Flash Drive Tester 1.14

i just GOT a new pc, with a flat wide screen. I got it all set up ready to run, then the screen never came on. i read the manual for the screen, and run some test on it and is working. So I am assuming that the problem is on the tower. When i turn the computer on the screen shows a MESSAGE: ENTERING power safe MODE and it goes to black again. I don't know what to do to fix it. can someone help me out please!!!! The display is not getting the SIGNAL from the video card / pc. Unplug the system from power, open up the case and make sure all of the cards are firmly seated (especially the video card). Then check all connections between the display and the video card, close the case, plug it back in and try again.

I am running windows xp but if I install sp3 the computer crashes. I have decided to do a fresh reinstall but as this would take time and my other half can't wait .

I though about REMOVING the current hard drive (300gb), putting in an old (but working 60gb) hard drive and then START the reinstall, if the wife needs the computer, I can HOT SWAP the hard drives. Then when the fresh reinstall is complete, I can take an image of the fresh reinstall and restore it to the 300gb hard drive.

But when I opened the case, the 300gb hard drive is a SATA, whereas my old hard drive is a PATA.

Anyone got any ideas on how to get round this?Mmm thats abit strange you would of thought that adding in service pack three would only help but anyway here is the link ofr xp service pack three already incorporated into the windows dl

*Link removed*

download this and see what happens xp PRO with sp3 no need for updates

....................enjoyi forgot to tell you it validated too


happy days
Went to your link! Browswer, firewall and AV shut down and a virus started to scan my computer for infections. AV could not get rid of it, lucky I had an image of my hard drive that I could restore.

I think I will stick to the fresh reinstal, any idears on how to bridge the sata to pata drives?

This is becoming a largely annoying problem. When I am browsing the internet, watching a video, or anything else online, I will eventually get a bsod. I am not sure what causes them because they seem to be triggered by different things at different TIMES, but I think it is just when I am online for the most part. This also happens while I am playing games, actually. Now getting a blue screen here and there is not too bad because that has been the case since I built the computer a little over a year ago, but now that I put windows 7 64 bit on, I get them every-single-day! it has never been this bad before, and I think it might be a hardware issue. the only changes made since I was running the windows rc is that I am now using wired instrad of wireless internet. I just don't get it. What can I do to find the cause and REMOVE the issue?

thx
Start by posting the entire BSOD message...including the gibberish...where do I get this info. the bios flashes and disappears too fast for me to copy it downSystem Properties - Advanced - Startup & Recovery Settings. Uncheck "automatically restart". Next time, the blue screen will remain up.sorry for the delay i did not get any for the rest of the night.

I have to post this as a picture because I cannot type it all..
Sorry it is so big but you need to be able to read it
and yes, the mouse is frozen on the screen when it crashes (upper left)

thanks. you were a large and motivating help!That blue screen code is related to, according to MS, a device driver, system firmware, or an upgrading error. Since your watching video or playing games when it happens, my first bet would be that it's related to your video driver. Reinstalling or updating the video driver may fix the problem.

Are you using a video card or is it onboard video? Post your computer specs...



It COULD also be a ram issue. I just fixed a blue screen error a week ago on someone's Dell system with the same blue screen code. The problem was not a driver issue in this case, it was a ram issue. One of the ram modules had gone bad. Starting the computer with only one stick of ram may help. This will help isolate what ram module is the culprit, if ram is the problem. Re-seating the ram may help. If starting the computer with only one stick of ram leaves you with insufficient memory to start the OS, just download and run MEMtest86 and run diagnostics for a couple of hours and see if it reports "errors". Burn the .iso file to Cd and BOOT off of itAlso, if reinstalling/updating the video driver doesn't help, try disabling your anti-virus software for a POSSIBLE fix, before going onto to test the memory..my computer specs are next to my avatar, and they are updated and correct. I will try to reinstall the vidieo driverIf reinstalling the driver doesn't help you need to look and see if there is an updated driver available from here:

http://www.xfxforce.com/en-us/Help/Support.aspx

They require you to register to get the latest drivers

While installing a window the setup is saying cant load your HDD drivers. how to resolve this problem?

otherwise the HDD is working well i am using a window but the trial has EXPIRED and i have to install a new one to apply cracks etc

plz help me resolve this problem
tell me how can i make my HDD bootableI am trying to read what you said.

It looks like you want to install windows again on your hard drive. But for some reason you forgot how it was done before. This would be much easier if you had made a backup system.
In the case of Windows XP it MAY be necessary to install a SPECIAL driver for the SATA hard disk drive. You must have the driver all ready on a floppy disc. When the setup starts you must hit F6 and INSERT floppy disc in drive.

thanx for the reply
i dun have a floddy drive in the laptop can i use usb for this purpose???actully i know how to install windows but the problem is HDD drivers are not installed and it is not letting me install the new windows cos in setup it says i dun hv any HDD

Hi everyone,

Just in case not all PEOPLE have seen this but the Nvidia GTX480 is soon to be released (12th of April-ish).

Scan.co.uk are currently pricing them from £428.99 to £504.64 compared with its main rival, ATI's HD5870 which prices at £308 to £352.

Review available here -
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/nvidia_gtx480/

Note that in this review Nvidia Physix is turned off as ATI have no such thing so it makes the TEST more fair but it would enhance this even further.
The ATI HD5970 is also on there but remember thats a DOUBLE card, basically 2 CARDS stuck together and it only just out performs the GTX480 on most tests.

I am running Windows XP and each family member has a user ACCOUNT. When one account is open with applications running and I log on to my account and try to print or use my cutting machine any error messages go to the other window. So for example if the printer (an HP C6180) runs out of ink it sends a message and won't continue until it gets a response, but that message is displayed in the other account window which I can only access if I 'Switch User' and log into the other account! The same thing happens with my Craft Cutter which sends a confirmation message 'Do you want to cut now' to the alternative window. I haven't yet worked out what logic it uses to decide but it would be nice if it was based on which account was using the machine (printer or cutter)! Please can someone end my misery!!I suspect that what you are experiencing is being caused by which of your accounts has the "administrator" designation. All messages re faults are being directed to that account as opposed to the actual account that is using the function at any given time. You can verify this as the cause by having the administrator account actually perform a function and see if the message is displayed on that screen as opposed to being transferred to another user account. As to how you will (if it can be done) create the instruction so that the message will actually appear related to the current user is beyond my pay grade. HOWEVER i know that if indeed that is the cause there are others here on the CH forums that will comment on that for you. truenorthThanks for this. 3 of us (myself , dad and eldest son) have adminstrator rights. I haven't tested it but it's PROBABLY based on whose name comes up first - maybe I shall have to change my name to AAAh!

my WIRELESS card suddenly quit working. Would my best bet be to buy a new one or take it somewhere to have it looked at. Like something COULD have turned it off internally that I would not be aware of. I am not all that computer savvy and just want to make sure I don't go buy a new one for nothing.

Also, if I am to buy a new one, my computer is a tx1000 and all the wireless cards that I am finding with this SPS# is for the DV series. I have not been able to find one for the TX series. Will the DV series work for this laptop?

Thanks
DarleneThere aren't any user serviceable parts on a Network card so to speak...
A new card will only run you 15 BUCKS or so and can always be returned if it's not the issue...
You do not have to buy the same one that's in the machine...any 1 will work.
However look for reliable brand names such as Netgear;D-Link or Motorola just to name a few...Thank you very much. That was my thought, but just wanted to make sure. The cost is low enough, but compatibility was one thing I was not sure of. Thank you so much for the reply. Have a super day!I just realised it's a laptop...the card will probably be more expensive...
Another thing you may look into is contact your ISP...some of them provide Free cards.I have an HP tx1320 laptop. Its wireless card died about a year ago. In shopping around for a new one I read a lot of forum posts on other sites saying that this was a common occurrence with the tx1000 series and that replacing the card won’t necessarily fix the problem.

I had found a couple cards that looked like they were compatible, like this one http://www.impactcomputers.com/3dd7fbb.html, but after reading about other people having problems trying to fix the card I opted to buy a simple USB wireless adapter, something like this http://www.amazon.com/IOGear-Wireless-G-Speed-Adapter-GWU523/dp/B0009JR3SE.

It has worked fine ever since, but of course, it’s a NUISANCE to plug and unplug it all the time.

Hi,

I am having an HCL P4 PC, kindly help me, upto what EXTENT i can upgrade my RAM.

regards,

V K SaravananVisit crucial.com or memory-up.com , They both have free scanners that will let you know what you have already and what you can upgrade to. You don't have to buy from them but they will let you know what you need.Most motherboards will take up to 16 or 32 GB of RAM, but you need a 64bit operating system to USE more than 3GB of RAM.

Which OS are you running now?Quote from: lino4 on February 09, 2010, 10:29:24 PM

Most motherboards will take up to 16 or 32 GB of RAM, but you need a 64bit operating system to use more than 3GB of RAM.

Which OS are you running now?

Most motherboards will take up to 16 or 32 GB of RAM, but you need a 64bit operating system to use more than 3GB of RAM.

Which OS are you running now?

A P4 board that will take 16 to 32GB of RAM ? ?

Hi all

was trying to load up some quality Zappa tunes from an mp3 player I've had for about a year now, but the PC wouldn't read it, just kept seeing it as an empty removable drive,
So i tried another NEW mp3 player , same thing.
i then tried a digital camera (SD card) it also would' read it .

now its gotten worse, when ever i use any usb port on my PC (be it cable, memory stick, hub) it restarts my PC, up until the point XP loads up, then there's a flicker of a blue screen with some writing on it, but that's gone in a split SECOND so i have no idea what it says.

This restarting process repeats itself until i remove the device / cable in question.

I've tried inserting & removing it during start up, but with no effect. Only seems to happen whilst XP is up & running, but i wouldn't rule out some hardware issue .

i am using a USB mouse & Keyboard (saitek eclipse ii), but these seem to be largely unaffected by it. i tried swapping them for conventional old PS2 peripherals, but the result was the same.


As my music & photo collection are quite dear to me, this is a major pain in my errr neck.



& i would be most grateful if any of you nice people out there have any suggestions as to probable causes & hopefully solutions

Unplug as many USB items that are not needed....power down...and power up again
Travel to Device Manager...at the bottom of the list will be USB roots and hubs.
Clik the + sign on the left of each to expand all instances.
Right clik each of them and select un-install/remove...
You will recieve a warning message...ignore it.

Upon re-boot Windows will automatically re-install them all.
Check to see if this cured it.I agree with the solution above, however, NOTE***

On some installs (E-Machine, Dell, Gateway) when you remove the drivers as instructed, Windows will say that it can NOT find the install files because they do not load them on your computer by default. If that happens you have 2 options
1 - Check and see if you have an install or driver cd/dvd (I know E-Machine does this). You will need to have that in the pc for the drivers to install.

2 - Go to the website for the pc maker and search for drivers/downloads and the model of your pc and then for USB driver and download and install that.

I just say in case the info above doesn't happen exactly as explained. However I do agree that uninstalling and rebooting is your best 1st step.

Good Luck
Alex
Head of TechGeekandMore.comIn addition to patio's suggestions, go to System Properties - Advanced - Startup & Recovery Settings and uncheck "Automatically Restart". Next time there's an error that blue screen will remain up. Copy and post the entire contents of the blue screen error here.Alex ...it won't do that with USB Roots and Hubs...no matter the manuf.

patio.ok !!! thanks for the excellent responses chaps

tried delete / uninstalling the controllers from device manager, but still no JOY

Allen Last attempt was using a usb memory stick : blue screen READS: "problem detected & windows shut down to protect" etc
(i think you know the drill there)

gave reason as: "An attempt was made to execute non-executable memory"

Tech data: "***STOP:0x000000FC (0xBAD038E4, 0X0AA93163, 0XBAD03844, 0X00000001)

However my limited knowledge means i havent got a clue, i read a page or two about hexadecimal a few years ago, but i really am lost here.

the saga continues....Clik Here...Ok
i had a several goes at this (just to be sure) & i could't find the Mpegport.sys driver, there just doesn't seem to be one on my system.

i did the safe mode - device manager, non plug & play Drivers (view hidden) but its just not there.

i tried the DEP work around too

but still no luck.

i even considered the possibility of a virus of some kind but after some furious scanning nothing was found.

Any further suggestions?Quote from: patio on March 22, 2010, 07:34:45 PM

Unplug as many USB items that are not needed....power down...and power up again
Travel to Device Manager...at the bottom of the list will be USB roots and hubs.
Clik the + sign on the left of each to expand all instances.
Right clik each of them and select un-install/remove...
You will recieve a warning message...ignore it.

Upon re-boot Windows will automatically re-install them all.
Check to see if this cured it.

Hi. I have a Toshiba Satellite A205-S5000 laptop computer. I bought it as a refurb from buy.com in Oct of 2008. I had to purchase a new power source for it about 6 months ago. This has worked out just FINE. However, in the last couple of weeks, I have been having some problems. Whenever the power source is plugged in, it shows the blue light on the laptop that it is receiving power, and the red battery light indicates that the battery is dead. So, I was able to simply remove the laptop battery, and then boot up the laptop with no problems. But now, I cannot get the computer to boot up without the battery. I put the battery back in, which has very little charge on it, and it will boot up. The computer shows that it is charging the battery, AND that it is RUNNING from electrical power, but the battery keeps losing it's power, and then the laptop shuts down.

I thought it was possible to run a laptop without a battery, and I have DONE so successfully until just recently. I've been thinking about purchasing a new battery, and possibly even a new power source (again), but wanted to check here first.

Thank you so MUCH for your time in reading this and replying.Have you bent the chord in any way recently?
Does the voltage on the chord match the voltage of the computer and/or battery?
I'm guesing from what youre saying that the power chord itself is messed up. It may have some issues or could flat out be unable to TRANSFER power to your computer fast enough. My suggestion, get a new power chord, and simply charge your computer while its off until the chord arrives. I will try that. Thank you.

I have a Compaq Presario 6400nx and the north bridge has a heat sink and its hot enough to burn you and the south bridge has no heat sink and its also hot that it can burn you. The ram is Very warm, ONES stick is a 512mb and other is 256mb. I tryed each stick separately but still gets hot. The processor is an AMD Athlon 1800+ at 1.53ghz. I also GOT this used so maybe someone messed with jumpers or something.

I have no idea why its that hot cause im pretty sure its not SUPPOSE to be.Have you checked the cpu temp?The memory and heat sink will run hot. If you check into memory HARDWARE you will find some come with heat spreadersDownload HWMonitor and see what it shows for temperatures. Avoid touching any chips. Electric-Static Discharge (ESD) can damage them.There are Northbridge COOLER fans available at any PC shop.CPUID HWMonitor shows for temperatures is TMPIN1- 35C (94F), TMPIN2- 40C (103F) and THRM- 40C (103F) but THRM has not changed.

If those temperatures are accurate, then they're fine.

You shouldn't be touching the components while they're running anyway.

Hi,
After a recent semi-failed BIOS update (had to RESET BIOS through CMOS battery removal), my computer sometimes boots off the motherboards graphic CARD and sometimes off my 8600GT card.

Usually it'll boot off the motherboards card, I'll restart it, and it'll give me a 'No Signal' on my monitor until I switch it to my 8600GT graphics card at which point it'll work.

Specs are

P5GC-MX Motherboard
Zotac 8600GT 512MB DDR2
2GB RAM
Intel Core 2 Duo E6850 @ 3.00GHz (Both cores only hit 1.8GHz though due to motherboard only supporting a FSB of 800MHz) Enter the BIOS at boot time...F2 F10 or Delete....
Disable ONBOARD graphics.

I am elderly and my PC is a lifeline - I can use everyday software and have recently installed OPEN Office/like the iedea of Linus
What I want to learn about is the heardware best suited and how to connect. Think I want a wireless network = just PC and (net bought yet) Laptop, Expect to just read other PEOPLE mails and carry on trying to learn. Hope you fold got a lot of patience! E>SORRY about my typing errors -guess as its fairly LATE I must be tired. EX

i have an EXTERNAL hard drive on which i have SAVED all my documents pictures etc. e mule is set to send incoming files to external hard drive. i have run disc clean up but my internal hard disk is still full. What is happening?You have not provided enough information for anyone to help. However, if you say you are downloading torrents or p2p files to the drive I wouldn't be surprised if there's some malware involved.Quote from: jajay on February 21, 2010, 06:25:00 PM

i have run disc clean up but my internal hard disk is still full. What is happening?