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Hello!

Just a question for you all here.

I have been trying to upgrade my computer, but I've not been having much luck at the moment.

I found the correct RAM i need. 168 slot and it fits in fine, but when I load it up my screen has the words it would normally have but they are all BROKEN up and unreadable. It is very FRUSTRATING!

Any suggestions would be a great help


My computer specs are

Qtech
Intel Celeron CPU
1200 MHZ
1.20GHz and currently has 248MB of RAM split between TWO sticks.

Thanks in advance

Steve
Quote

[highlight]I found the correct RAM i need. 168 slot and it fits in fine[/highlight], but when I load it up my screen has the words it would normally have but they are all broken up and unreadable. It is very frustrating!

Any suggestions would be a great help

Ok so every time I try to change what I'm recording to microphone or anything else the BOX for stereo mix stays ticked.

This means I can't record guitar off of microphone without it looping back and causing some nasty distortion if I try to use my effects program,

Any ideas on how to "unstick" the tick in stereo mix in the recording volume?!

Thanks =]I give up. What version of Windows? What hardware? Has it EVER worked CORRECTLY? What preceeded this problem?

See below.Woops sorry =S.

It's Windows XP Home Edition and I have a Realtek AC97 AUDIO card I think? It used to be fine but recently I've noticed it not being able to change back to microphone on it's own.Oh and I've installed a number of audio programs including Audacity and InstantMusic which may have AFFECTED it.

Also an old version of Cubase.What if you reinstall the audio drivers from your motherboard CD?Haven't got the motherboard CD I don't think...

Is there anywhere on the net I could grab the drivers?Ok found the drivers, reinstalled yet still having the same problems.

Ugh it's annoying now.I would suggest a repair install of Windows...

Here Ya Go


patio. 8-)

Okay, this is bothering me. I was trying to play an audio CD on my computer, and no matter what player I use, (Winamp, Windows Media Player, or Musicmatch Jukebox), I get no sound when I attempt to play an audio CD (even official RELEASES). All other sound works just fine. Should I attempt to re-install the sound drivers? My computer has a Realtek HD Rear Audio INTEGRATED sound device. I get sound from computer games, but not audio discs. Sound comes out perfectly on Myst V: End of Ages, for example. Something's going on, and I can't tell what. The computer is a Hewlett Packard Pavilion a1440n 3.00 Ghz PC.Is it only certain sound extensions?

What excatly can you play and not play?

Some basics: Check your volume control to see if Wave and SW synth are set and not muted.

In control panel volume control check your device settings to make sure the right device is selected.

You can also use START->Run->Dxdiag in the sound option to test out your sound,I fixed the PROBLEM. I had to make the sound digital. I have no CLUE why analog audio will not work.

I have just installed an Intel Pentium D Processor onto a brand new motherboard. I am a little confused about whether or not I NEED to PUT thermal paste on the processor. The Intel instructions just say to be careful not to damage the thermal interface MATERIAL on the fan heatsink (which came with the processor) and do not mention any other thermal paste. The motherboard manual however, does say to use thermal paste. Is the the stuff that Intel provide sufficient, or do I need to TAKE the heatsink/fan off again and add some paste?Quote

I have just installed an Intel Pentium D Processor onto a brand new motherboard. I am a little confused about whether or not I need to put thermal paste on the processor. The Intel instructions just say to be careful not to damage the thermal interface material on the fan heatsink (which came with the processor) and do not mention any other thermal paste. The motherboard manual however, does say to use thermal paste. Is the the stuff that Intel provide sufficient, or do I need to take the heatsink/fan off again and add some paste?

I just had a new hard drive put in my computer but now when I try to scroll up/down on web pages they scroll very slowly and it looks kind of like a wave of text moving up and down the screen. I've checked the drivers and windows UPDATES but it still is hard to use. any suggestions?I would suggest POSTING a LOT of details about your SYSTEM, OPERATING system, malware protection being used, etc.

See below.

I had a power outage the other night and apparently a spike got through my surge protector. I figured it got the power supply so I borrowed a brand new one to try. The puter fired up and ran for about 5 minutes then shut off again and won't power back on. I had the CASE open and had cleaned everything, checked that the fans were running, etc and all seemed to be going well until it shut off. I was thinking of upgrading the motherboard and processor anyway so I guess this is a good a time as any. My question is....any suggestions for a replacement? I'd like to keep everything else as is for now unless anyone has some better suggestions. It was a good running machine.

This is what I have:

Intel D850GB motherboard
Pentium 4, 1.8 GHz processor
256 MB RDRAM
NVIDIA GeForce4 MX 4000 AGP video card
Maxstor 80GB Ultra ATA/133 hard drive
WDC 60GB WD600AB hard drive
Sony CD-RW CRX1611
Sony DVD-ROM DDU1621
Realtek RTL8139 PCI Fast Ethernet adapter
Windows 2000 ProfessionalWas the PSU you borrowed of good quality & adequate size?
Did you try disconnecting your old PSU from the mains then plugging it back in & BOOTING?
Some PSUs latch into shutdown on mains failure.The old PSU was a 300W Skyhawk. I fiddled around with it some and it would seem to be a hit or miss thing whether or not it would come on. When it did come on, it would shut off right away again.

The new one is an Ultra Xconnect 500W. After I hooked it up, the computer ran for about 5 minutes and everything seemed to be OK then it shut down and won't restart again no matter what I do.Try resetting the CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for ~10 seconds or shortcircuiting the CMOS jumper.

Have you tried booting with minimal hardware attached?Never thought about the battery. I took it out and put it back in but nothing changed. I can unhook all the hardware and nothing happens. The fans don't even turn on now. Seems I just have a big paperweight now.OK, maybe I'm getting somewhere now. When I turned on the power supply, the green light on the motherboard came on but when I hit the on button on the computer itself nothing happened. I took the faceplate off and I'm not sure if the switch might be bad or the connection was just loose but it fired up this time. Since I took the CMOS battery out, the setup screen came on and it said the battery was low. It then booted up and ran good for about 5 minutes then click, it shut down. I'll get a new battery in the morning and try that and also maybe look at the switch again. Wish me luck and thanks for the idea about the battery Raptor.No problem, CR2032 is most likely what you need.OK, I'm back to square one. I replaced the battery, it was a CR2032. Nothing. I tried to HOT wire the switch so it would just turn on with the PSU. Nothing. The light comes on the motherboard but nothing else happens, no fans, no lights, nothing.I know you have replaced it but it still sounds like a psu problem to me.
Is the voltage selector switch set correctly on it?
Are the leads all plugged in very securely?That's what I originally thought in the first place. The selector was the first thing I looked at before plugging it in. I checked all the connections. It's acting the same way as it did with the original psu. The light comes on the motherboard and I hear a "burp" out of my sound card but nothing else happens. I'm completely puzzled.As you were talking about a new cpu & motherboard I think I'd strip it, clean it & rebuild it with minimum hardware connected & then try & boot, even using the old psu.
You don't have much to lose at the moment.Yeah, that's pretty much the CONCLUSION I came to too. It's been a good system for me, maybe I'll be able to resurrect it as a backup. Thanks for all the input, guys.

I shutdown my PC every night. Lately when I bring it back up in the mornings, the monitor will not display anything. I have to keep shutting it off and on (the PC) for the monitor to finally display my screen. It is getting power but no picture.Have you checked the cable is firmly plugged into the computer and the monitor?YES, everything seems to be in tact as far as hardware goes.Does the PC turn on when the monitor displays nothing?
I know it's hard to tell if there's no picture but for example, do the fans SPIN up? Can you hear the hard drive whirring or clicking? Is there a power light that comes on?Yes, the PC seems to be acting normal.Do you have any more information on the PC?
That would be useful to help troubleshootRemove the CMOS battery for 10 SECONDS or shortcircuit the CMOS jumper.Try another monitor on that machine and try that monitor on another one. Let's see where the problem REALLY is.

It is here, but you may want to post this on the the Inspiron board in the Dell forums, in case it is a known issue.


http://forums.us.dell.com/supportforums?category.id=inspironOther than swapping out both the DVD drive and the Video card one at a time to find out i have no idea...

COMPONENTS do go bad.I figured it out guys... I had to go into my device manager and switch the transfer mode over to DMA, it was on the slow transfer rate of PIO. EVERYTHING works GREAT now! Thanks for all your help in trying to FIGURE it out.

Okay, my grandfather gave me a printer that is Lexmark 1100 without the INSTALL disk. I was given a link to Lexmark's website to install the drivers, but when I unzipped the folder it tried to prompt me to DOS to install the drivers and I GET this message:

C:\Windows\system32\autoexec.nt The system file is not suitable for running MS-DOS and Microsoft Windows applications. Choose "Close" to terminate the application.

This also happens if I try to play any games in DOS yet if I run cmd.exe I can browse around DOS all I want, I just can't RUN anything...

I'm using Windows XP on a Dell computer... I tried reinstalling windows but it told me that the version was more recent than the one on the disk. I got my computer in 2003...

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I REALLY NEED A PRINTER, and this one was free... ^_^;


~ Misha <3Usually when you go to the manufacturers site and get drivers, they ask you for the operating system used. Did you tell it XP?

Alan <>< Yes I did, actually it was my mother that took the initiative to get the link and e-mail it to me.

http://downloads.lexmark.com/cgi-perl/downloads.cgi?category=Drivers&ccs=37:1:0:435:0:0&os_group=WinXP&searchLang=en

She wrote that she was instructed by tech support to download and install this WITHOUT the printer attached to my computer, which I tried, I got as far as unzipping the file, I'm pretty sure it's not actually 'installed'

~ Misha <3After the file is unzipped there should be a file called setup...just double clik it and the install should proceed.
Don't hook up the printer til it tells you to.
You should alsoYes I know, for some reason the setup file tries to bring me to DOS and my computer doesn't really want to open it... as I mentioned the error message above.

~ Misha <3You did not COMPLETELY type the exact type of your printer.
i have found if your printer is Lexmark 1100 Color Jetprinter then you have
download false driver.
Please try this link and download the driver :
http://downloads.lexmark.com/cgi-perl/downloads.cgi?category=Drivers&ccs=229:1:0:4:0:0&searchLang=en&os_group=WinXPOkay, at this point I would have to say that I probably just need to get my grandfather to search through ALL of his CD discs until he finds it.

The printer is actually a SCANNER all in one type deal 1190 actually. The one listed there says 1185 but apparently it works for the printer I have too, but that driver brings me to DOS which apparently doesn't work, then again DOS doesn't work now if I try to play certain games in it, MAYBE my computer just needs to go see a technician since it hasn't in about 3 years. >_>

I thought just reinstalling Win XP might help, but my computer won't even let me do that...
It used to be able to boot from the XP CD but now it just says my windows is too NEW for the version on my disc that came with the computer.

I think Charlotte (my computer) is just tired. I should probably be putting my time and energy into backing up my hard drive at this point instead of trying to get the printer to work ^_^;

Thanks for trying to help.


~ Misha <3
Have you tried to run the installation from a command window?
Click start/run and type command. Navigate to the folder where you unzipped the driver file and try to run the setup.Yes I did, the same result happened.


~ Misha <3

Hello i built my system about a YEAR and a HALF ago and for about 1 year i have been having this issue.

Sometimes (not always so it seems) my computer will have SERIOUS during boot (sometimes so bad windows doesn't load after a while) and the lags can be seen while the bios going over the system specs and such. If i do get windows going i will continue to have the lags and these aren't just like a jumpy mouse and slow processing these are complete, short, mini freezes were nothing happens on screen ATALL for a second or 3 then it works smooth for 5seconds to a min then boom nuther lag/mini-freeze

I am 99.999999999% sure that this is not related to my install of windows since i know for a fact that i can see the lags before my system loads the Windows Boot-loader.

None that i have spoken to have any idea what this could be causing this but we have all suspected that is hardware related. Let me say first that i did NOT install anything that caused this, my system specs have stayed exactly the same since start (other than another hardrive installed about 4 months ago)

I don't have spare hardware to test the cause (like a spare stick of ram) i only have my 1 stick of 1 gig CORSAIR value select. I am considering buying another stick (of the exact model) so that i can see is my ram might me slightly bad, and if not heck I'll have 2 gigs duel channel so its a semi-win win idea but i don't want to get off the money if anyone here thinks my issue might lie somewhere else in my system.

Thank you for your time, my system specs to follow:

AMD 4000+ athlon 64
1 gig corsair ram (1 dimm)
Main boot HD is SATA, Seagate
Nvidia 7800 GT
Gigabyte Mother Board; VIA chip-set

Cant think of what else you might want here atm so ill attach my DXdiag report.Diagnose your HDD and RAM.Quote

Diagnose your HDD and RAM.

Quote

Diagnose your HDD and RAM.

Ok thanks, I'm setting to use the seagate tool posted on this forum atm

Quote

Quote

Diagnose your HDD and RAM.

Ok thanks, I'm setting to use the seagate tool posted on this forum atm

Won't do for the RAM. Use Memtest86 or Microsoft Memory Diagnostics

Thanks but i already knew that the seagate tool wouldn't test my ram Wink (but i understand many of the visitors you get here might not know that) I did not run a full diagnostic just the quick and some other tests

I tested all my drives and controllers with the tool from seagate and they all showed as 100% good (although the tool did freeze [potentially forever, not just a few secs] the first time i tested my IDE controllers (not sata) but i restarted and the tool ran 100% on everything, the freeze was after the tool had run a few other test so it may have been overwhelmed)

first try checking your msconfig to see what is booting when you start up..2nd jack up your memory (ram chips) 3rd make sure yer hd isnt partioned into 2 parts..as for your config.. set the config too boot up only what you want to start on boot up.

Hello, I wonder if anyone can advise me on a good value, decent PC STACK for vocal and guitar recording using soundforge and cubase, probably through a mixer or decent external soundcard. I have been told I need at least 1 gig or RAM and a decent processor. Everything so far comes up in the region of about £400 but any deals or good bargains would be good to know about. Also advice on a good mixer and soundcard would be much appreciated... a mixer with mic. compressor. Can you get soundcards that do this? Cheers.You probably want a PC with a large hard drive, a DVD drive (which will also play CDs) and a DVD-RW drive (which will also burn CDs), 1024 MB (1 GB) of RAM, dual processors, and the Windows XP Media Center Edition operating system. Do not WAIT to purchase a PC with Windows Vista, as that OS is likely to have problems with its initial release. Windows XP systems will likely be sold at reduced prices when the non-beta version of Windows Vista is released by MS.

thanks for the advice. When you say I need a dual processor I assume you mean dual CORE. What are examples of dual core processors? Will it state it in the description or do I need to know a pentium from a celeron, etc, with regard to this? Cheers.http://www.intel.com/products/processor/coreduo/
http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/ProductInformation/0,,30_118_9485_13041,00.html
http://www.tomshardware.com/2005/06/03/dual_core_stress_test/index.html
http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-10442_7-6389077-1.html

I can't quite see it from here, but how about some description of the equipment, it's age, how long it has been like this, what preceeded this, etc. See below.

Just a quick question about temps If you have READ my last post this may make more sence Just wondering where the temperature is taken from, inside the CPU or fr4om the underside of the fan? because if i turn my computer on the side and place the HS+Fan on top of the CPU it RUNS fine at much lower temps than before...like 39 degrees under load :S this is not normal RIGHT? especially for a SKT478 Celeron :S If its from the fan I THINK my CPU might as well be toasting right this very second

KurtisIm pretty sure thats fine.OK thanks a bunch!!

Hello,

I have a problem with my Packard Bell Multimedia 350, I have bought a new motherboard the S1868 Pentium II\PCI-ISA from Tyan Computer; I have all the nessary pats (processor, memory,ETC..) but my System Panel Connector isn't the same. So my question is how do I connect the cable to the system panel connector ?

Thanks

Al968That shouldn't be a problem. The options for reset, power on, HDD light and Power light should still be there. If the connectors do not match, cut them open at the plastic connector so that you get individual connectors that you can put in any way necessary.I have the same problem. Can someone tell me what the colours of each cable signify?Quote

I have the same problem. Can someone tell me what the colours of each cable signify?

I have the same problem. Can someone tell me what the colours of each cable signify?

Quote

I have the same problem. Can someone tell me what the colours of each cable signify?

With a little more info, absolutely...

patio. 8-)

My computer has been intermittently losing 1 or 2 hard DRIVES ever since I built it. It is a home built computer running Windows XP with the relevant hardware being an Antec 450W power supply, Intel D945Pvs system board (82801 GR I/O controller hub with ICH7-R) and 3 Maxtor 250GB SATA hard drives of various different models including 6L250S0, 6V250F0, 7V250F0, 6L25020 with most of the space in a RAID-5 configuration. About every 2-6 weeks 1 or 2 drives in the RAID fail.

When just 1 drive goes down, the computer will reboot (I actually have an 8GB RAID-0 partition divided equally between the 3 drives for my swap file, and the remaining space on the 3 drives is used in a RAID-5 configuration) because the swap file is no LONGER available to read or write to. Sometimes it will run just long enough to tell me that a drive from the RAID set is missing, and give me some errors about the swap file. After the reboot, and during the POST, the hardware RAID shows 1 drive missing, and then the computer comes back in Windows with the swap file disabled and it runs in a degraded state. Restarting the computer does not solve the problem, but shutting the computer all the way down and powering it back up allows the drive to be seen, and it gets rebuilt and works again for a few weeks.

When 2 drives go down they appear to go down at the exact same time. The computer reboots and during POST the RAID shows 2 drives missing. Pressing the RESET button or warm booting do not solve the problem. A power cycle does let both drives to be seen, and I have to go into the RAID configuration and tell it to recover the volumes. Then it then boots to Windows and rebuilds the RAID set. After this happened about the 3rd time, I started taking notes.

Sometimes it happens when I am using the computer and sometimes it happens when I am not at my computer.
The problem does not follow any particular drive or drives.
The problem does not follow any particular SATA port or ports.

The first thing I did was upgrade the BIOS to the LATEST version. Did not fix the problem.
Then I replaced the SATA cables. Did not fix the problem.
Then I replaced the drive that was failing the most with a brand new drive (still Maxtor, but different model). Did not fix the problem.
Then I replaced the system board with a brand new Intel D945Pvs, and replaced the SATA cables again at the same time. Did not fix the problem.
Then I replaced all 3 drives at once. Did not fix the problem.
Then it happened to the same 2 drives twice in a row, and those drives happened to be on the same SATA power cable coming from the power supply. So I swapped power connectors on the drives, but it happened again on one of the same drives on the new power connector.
The hottest spot on the external of the hottest drive in the cage is 33 degrees Celsius (I can't read the SMART info because of the hardware RAID), so I don't think it is a thermal issue.
I also replaced a couple more hard drives in between these steps with various models.

I am about out of ideas. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to include all information I thought relevant. Please let me know if you have any more ideas or things to try.
Tried a different power supply?

Alan <>< No, I haven't tried a new power supply. I have thought about trying a different power supply, but I have never seen this type of problem related to a power supply in the past ... especially just 1 or 2 devices fail. I have also been running the Intel Desktop Control Center which monitors temperatures and voltages and it has not shown anything abnormal.

I guess that probably is the next logical step, though. Thanks for the tip, Alan.

Any other ideas?Another idea: Do not turn the computer on till you replace the power supply. It is likely creating (or not protecting your computer from) power surges that are damaging the hardware.

You can also use a multimeter to test the voltage coming from the electrical outlet. Consider purchasing a better surge protector.

I recently PULLED out my HARD drive from my laptop which broke.
I put the laptop in an enclosure and hooked it up to my desktop.

However, my notebook hard drive had WINDOWS password when booting up.

Is there any way to disable the password so I can get to my FILES on the hard drive?

Thanks
Here

Hello All The Fundi's,I have a stupid question as USUAL.I had a program that came with a pc magazine freeware that could remove vocals from any track completely WITHOUT distorting or changing the music.As usual I used it and never made a note of it's name,now I had to format my computer because of a virus infection damage and it's lost/gone.Somehow I remember the it guy who installed it said it was part and parcal of the very first windows xp cd's and i cannot get/buy one.Is there any POSSIBILITY you can just give me the name of it then I can search the NET and buy another one?Looking forward to a positive reply
spyker1961Please post your message in only one SECTION of the forum. Posting in multiple sections just leads to disarray. I replied to your other posting.On top of that suggestion more info on your OS, machine and what App is acting up should yield more good responses...

If you remember that in my last post i didnt know if the ati tv tuner would fit my computer. Well now i have purchased it and it fit and i was able to install it. But now a new prioblem has developed. Once i installed it i had to restart my computer and when i ran the media thingy everything was CHOPPY verrry choppy and "CLCapSvc Module has encountered a problem and needs to close. We are sorry for the inconvenience." and some other crap keeps coming up in a little box and asks me if i want to DEBUG send error report or dont send. But even with the choppy program RUNNING it wont even work and i have my xbox hooked up to it and i still get the message "No tv tuner devise detected" or it some time hangs with the arrow going in circles........ANy ideass???ANY alternative to tv tuner PROGRAMS??? Iam just using it for video games nothinh else i have no need for cable or tv just for video game purposes !!!Try CyberLink customer support:

http://www.cyberlink.com/english/cs/support/new_site/support_index.html

Hi,
SMART man is looking for a smart solution. Can anyone in the FORUM tell me that is there any DVD player which COULD be ATTACHED to the computer or laptop to run videos, just like DVD player runs video on TV.does your computer play dvd's? theres TONS of software for that.A lot more info on your situation and someone will be along shortly...

For some reason my canon printer will not print color text from a Word document. All maint has been done and print tests seam OK, it is not SET for GRAYSCALE yet only PRINTS that way. Color photo printing comes out the most peculiar colors also. I have downloaded the latest driver. Anybody have any sugestions before I throw this thing out!How old are the ink cartridges ? ?
Or if the printer has not been used frequently they will appear FULL but be dried up...They are refilled recently with generic ink product. Not dried up or they would not produce the correct result on the maintenance runs that SHOW all cartridges as running, at least they are all printing the separate 4 colors. I just had a thought maybe it is just when the color mix requires black it despences too much, causing everything to come out a shade of gray. I will try and get a new black cartridge and see if that helps.Co mom 3........
http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=SupportDetailAct&fcategoryid=231&modelid=6617

Quote

For some reason my canon printer will not print color text from a Word document.

Hi All,
I'm new at this so please bear with me.
My computer has a MSI 865GVM2-LS motherboard
A Pentium4 processor/2.60 GHZ
512 MB DDR
80 GB Harddrive
2 (DVD+/-RW)
300 Watt Power Supply
5 USB/ 4 in 1 media card reader
Epson Stylus 870 Printer
and a Epson Stylus CX 5200 Printer
Window XP/SP2
The problem that I'm having is no matter what I try I can not GET the CX5200 printer to install to any of the USB ports. I have downloaded all drivers for the printer and the USB ports.
The USB ports work because I have plugged in other USB devices (MP3 Player)
When I install the printer it will not install to the USB port(s) only the LPT printer port and then of couse it will not work.Any one have any idea how to get it to install the drivers to the USB port(s)??
Printer does work on its own,SCANS and so forth.
Thanks,janmcl
Has this ever worked correctly or is it brand new? If so, it could just be dud.

Have you read the instructions carefully? Some USB printers, especially HP HAVE to have the software installed first, then reboot, and THEN the device plugged in to get everything set up correctly. Uninstall EVERYTHING related to the printer and then try again as directed.The general rule with USB devices is that you have to install the drivers before you connect the hardware.

Re:GX1_Man / Raptor
Thanks for the replies.The Epson CX 5200 did work before when it was installed with the original MO BOARD.The original MO board bit the dust.I replaced it with the MSI. Complete formatted hard drive,installed all the drivers(+updated drivers),WinXP/SP2,anti-virus,spyware, and ect.I have done the above 3 DIFFERENT times.Also before installing SP2 part of Windows did the above 2 times. Still no luck. Installed CX5200 per manufactors instuctions.,tried with and without using new hardware in Windows.Tried installing CX5200 before other printer(Epson 870,this one installs with out any problems to the parallel port),adding a USB port in printers/properties/port add a port area..Installing before connecting 2nd DVD/CD drive.
(3) different printer cables for printer. Still will not install to USB port,only the LPT 1 Printer(parallel) port.Tried changing it to a different port after drivers were installed. Every thing that I could think of.Also un installed printer,drivers a few times.
Still no luck, Anything else anyone can think of for me to try Please let me know.
Thanks Again, janmclTry the following:

• Uninstall Drivers/software related to the printer you're trying to install
• Disconnect printer
• Run CrapCleaner (Both Clean-up and Registry scanner)
• Remove any entries related to your printer. To be certain that you remove them all, follow the instructions in this(Click) article!
  

I'm extremely curious to know what the diff between 100 sdram and 133 sdram is? And are they compatible with the same type PC?..My PC was created in 2000 would I be able to use 133 sdram ..I know I can use 100 sdram..Basically I just want an answer to my questions without getting to techy on me please..It all depends on the motherboard and the type of RAM. If you don't want to get "too techie", go to www.crucial.com and INPUT your system info to find out what is required for yours.

www.howstuffworks.com for more infoThanx I'll check those sites.howstuffworks as useless as *censored* on a bull ..crucial was a bit helpful but I'll find somewhere else to ask my questions than here you all seem rather smug..
Goodbye Spidey Actually, smug could be caused not by people being smug, but by their smug farts.

There is no difference beetween SDR RAM 133Mhz or 100Mhz.

The only reason u would want 133Mhz SDR RAM instead of 100Mhz is for a performance increase, wich u dont because u have a 7 year-old PC and dont play games. Even if u did want a performance increase, SDR RAM 133Mhz and 100Mhz are the same thing as i've said before, so there would be no performance increase anyway.

BTW, what CAN u use a 7 year-old PC for? Other then the fact that im surprised that it hasnt de-composed yet, i dont think u can run any non-game applications on it anyway.The difference between 133 mhz sdram and 100 mhz sdram is about 1/3.

Same as a 400 or 300 mhz CPU.

The S-Spec's of your Cpu.Look them up.Would determine if you could benefit
from the 133 MHZ Sdram.


The FSB is going to determine everything.I have a Gateway.It was originally
P2 450 100 Mhz FSB.I bought a Lin Lin Adaptor and a 1000MHZ Socket 370 CPU.I upgraded from 128MB of Sdram to 512 Mhz Sdram.

My computer is by no means a gamer but,it is TWICE as fast as it was and it
will be 8 years old in a COUPLE of months.

It is by no means decomposing.It operates as well as it did new.

There are people out there who will agree that the 440BX motherboard was
quite a jewel.

http://www.cpu-world.com/Quote

BTW, what CAN u use a 7 year-old PC for? Other then the fact that im surprised that it hasnt de-composed yet, i dont think u can run any non-game applications on it anyway.

Quote

BTW, what CAN u use a 7 year-old PC for? Other then the fact that im surprised that it hasnt de-composed yet, i dont think u can run any non-game applications on it anyway.

Actually you can run MOST things that are not games without any difficulty at all.

I HAVE THE COMPUTER TURNED ON ALONG WITH MONITOR (LCD) BUT NO DISPLAY OR SIGNAL TO THE MONITOR, THE MONITOR GOES IN STANDBY MODE AND COMPUTER DOES NIT BEEP OR ANYTHING THE MONITOS JUST STAYS DEAD WITH NO REASON ANY HELP ON THIS Sounds like your monitor took a sh*tprobably not a solution, but i just had this problem yesterday. All i did is completely shut down pc, then turn back on. By shut down, i mean i had to RESET the surge protector.Welcome to the CH forums ebrahimj.

See here...

The problem could be hardware related (bad video CARD) or software related (lack of driver) or it could simply be that a plug is not seated properly but until you give some info it's not possible to come up with a diagnosis.

What have you tried so far?

i think the video card not put properly or the cable to the video card from monitor not put tightly or the video card are broken...I have this problem sometimes, It is to do with the CPU, in order to tell if it is a video card issue or a CPU NON -detection issue tell us if the HDD light stays on when you boot

System Specs Are: windows xp home, 512mb ram, 2.8GHz intel celeron cpu

The sound on my computer has completely gone. the volume icon is MISSING. I have an onboard Realtek AC97 sound device. All of a sudden, the other day i swithed on the pc and no sound. device manager reports no audio problems, however system information says that IRQ 16 is being used by a graphics controller and usb universal host controller. in control panel under sounds and audio devices i get a "no audio device" message. the last two programs i installed are windows media player 11 and IE 7.0 about two weeks ago, and the problem starter yesterday. i have tried system restore to no avail. BIOS sound is enabled. speakers work just fine on another pc. i can't Extract a copy of Sndvol32.exe from windows xp cd because all i have are the three restore cd's when i bought the pc, and when i try to reinstall audio drivers via the restore cd or from C:\Drivers\Audio\OriginalDriver the system stops installing at 80% and i get the following:"Realteck ac'97 audio (4.86) tool for driver update has
ENCOUNTERED a problem and needs to close." i tried unistalling realtek ac'97 in add/remove programs but i get the following pop up:realtek ac'97 audio
>setupDLL\setupDLL.cpp (391)
pAPP:Realtek ac'97 audio
PVENDOR:Realtek semiconductor corp.
PGUID:fb08f381-6533-4108-b7dd-039e11fbc27e
$11.50.0.42618
@windows XP service pack 2 (2600) IE 7.0.5700.6
Setup has experienced an error.
Please do the following:
- Close any running programs
- Empty your temporary folder
- Check your internet connection (Internet-based Setups)
error code 5001

when i run directX diagnostic tool i get the following:
Sound Tab 1: DirectSound test results: Failure at step 3 (DirectSoundCreate): HRESULT = 0x8878000a (The request failed because DirectSound resources, such as the priority level, were already in use by another caller.) and Music Tab: DirectMusic test results: Failure at step 6 (Activating the IDirectMusicPort): HRESULT = 0x8878000a (The request failed because DirectSound resources, such as the priority level, were already in use by another caller.) device manager shows the following under sound, video and game controllers:audio codecs, legacy audio drivers, legacy video capture drivers, media control devices,
and video codecs. each device is enabled and supposedly "working properly".
when i installed a pci sound card the volume icon does come back and i can hear music, but i'd like to figure out the audio problem.
i KNOW i can do a windows xp re-install but that is going to be my last option.

what do you guys think?
I think you installed two beta products and now you have problems.GO to Start > Search and search for: sndvol32.exe if you dont have that then you need to download it. Here are some instructions:
To display the volume icon in the taskbar notification area, you must select the "Place volume icon in the taskbar" check box in Control Panel Sounds and Audio Devices applet. If, when you try to select this check box, you receive the error

Error
Windows cannot display the volume control on the taskbar because the Volume Control program has not been installed. To install it, use Add/Remove Programs in Control Panel.

you need to copy the sndvol32.exe image from your commercial XP installation media (not a vendor-supplied "recovery" CD-ROM) to the system32 folder by performing the following steps:

1. Start a COMMAND session.
2. Navigate to the CD-ROM drive by typing

<cd drive>:

3. Navigate to the i386 folder by typing

cd i386

4. Expand the sndvol32.ex_ file by typing

expand -r sndvol32.ex_ %systemroot%\system32

I hope that works.. it did for me...sndvol32.exe is in the windows/system32 folder but when i double click on it i get a message that says something like ' can't find audio device, go to add/remove programs and install it'

Control Panel Sounds and Audio Devices displays "no audio device" found

i don't have a commercial version of win xp, i only have the 3 restore cd's they gave me when i bought the pc.What is the computer or motherboard make and model? What happened prior to this?

Without a sound card being identified properly, and the incorrect drivers being used, nothing else will ever work right.

When was the last time you reinstalled Windows?

well guys I bought a new battery and a new hd---but Im not SURE its the RIGHT one. The original hd was a seagate 60gb and I just bought a wd 160 gb. Please dont tell me they are not compatiable? where do I go to find compatiable hds? This one has different pins than the old one. Please HELP. I HOPE this will fix all the problems I have been having with this machine.

Alright, well i play a game online from Sony Entertainment Online. I have had my computer for 2 YEARS, it is a Dimension 3000 - Celeron, Intel Celeron D Processor 330 (2.66GHz, 533 FSB) Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition. My video card is, Intel(R) 82865G GRAPHICS Controller. I open the game, and all it gives me is a black screen (I have played the game for the 2 years ive had the computer and didn't have a problem). But when i put the game in windowed, it loads and i can see the screen clearly. I can still watch videos on ebaumsworld.com/youtube.com, but just recently it started not loading the screen to the game. Also, to add, when my CPU is powered off, but the monitor is not, the monitor flashes colors in this order: white, green, RED, blue, black. Over and over again. Is this my video card going bad or something else?
more info please. It sounds like a driver issue though, try updating thatMore info? Hmm, when the game opens, it transfers to full screen, but doesn't load. I can here the sound and everything, but can't see the screen. Also, another game from nexon.net that i've been playing won't load either. Same problem, can hear everything but can't see. What other info can i give you that you need?it sounds like a driver issue. I had this problem once when I upgraded drivers and had to unistall it and reload the older driver. Try updating the driver.

Ok, sometimes people complain about the music i'm playing and tell me to plug in the headphones, but really that's quite annoying since the back of my tower isn't all that accessible. So of course i figured why not plug them into my monitor, turn off the other speakers, and LISTEN to it that way.

Problem though; not GETTING any sound through it. It's probably because i need to switch it to my default speaker WHENEVER i change it, i know, but it doesn't appear as an option and i'm wondering if it's disabled as an optin or something.

Anyone know how to enable it or what's going on here?Is the monitor plugged into the sound card via jacks ? ?probably not, i've just got the power supply and the normal tower to monitor hook up on it
apparently that's my problem.
u know how to hook it up?Just plug the pink WIRE of the monitor into the pink jack of the soundcard.. Voila..I WISH i could say that everything is fine now, but unfortunatly not.
I don't have a pink cord, and i'm not entirely sure what that is, plus i'm not sure i see how that will work. These are the open spaces on the back of my monitor:
Audio L and R which are an AV style of plug, and a mic line out which is the normal smaller headphone style of plug (not sure what that one's called).
Obviously it would seem i need to use the audio plugs, but where in the world would AV plugs go into my tower??Into the sound card...Quote

Into the sound card...

I am looking for an EXTERNAL USB Hard Drive for my Win 98SE PC. Will somebody help, please.www.newegg.com will have just what you WANT, in all SHAPES, sizes and colors. Win98 even SE had shaky USB support at best...try and find a manuf. that supplies USB drivers for the external unit...

GOOD Luck.

hi all, basically i have a soundblaster audigy and an ac97, im on windows xp pro, 1gb RAM, 1ghz, P4, 250gb hd
anyways i USE cool edit pro for recording audio and i notice that when recording thru both these soundcards at the same time everything is fine for the first 30 secs or so(when played back), but then slowly after 30 secs they seem to become out of sync.
Any suggestons?Quote

hi all, basically i have a soundblaster audigy and an ac97, im on windows xp pro, 1gb ram, 1ghz, p4, 250gb hd
anyways i use cool edit pro for recording audio and i notice that when recording thru both these soundcards at the same time everything is fine for the first 30 secs or so(when played back), but then slowly after 30 secs they seem to become out of sync.
Any suggestons?

The other morning, I went to start my computer. The CPU turned on, but it sounded kind of ODD. I didn't hear the HD working. The little orange LIGHT came on (to indicate the HD working), and then eventually went off. Thinking it was a bad HD, I bought another one, and same problem. It won't boot from the CD rom, and the cd rom doesn't even spn. And I have no power to my monitor, KEYBOARD or mouse.

I tested my monitor, keyboard and mouse on a different computer, and they all work.

Any ideas??? I'd really appreciate it. :-?

Thanks.Can you define "kind of odd"?
More information on the PC would be useful, eg age, brand, componentsQuote

Can you define "kind of odd"?

Is everything plugged in right?
Do the fans all spin up?
Check for dust, clean the case out - could be a heat problem

Did you change anything before it all went wrong?

What is the computer model #?

Is there a usb PCI expansion slot or anything anywhere so that I can use my pci device in a computer that has no pci slots? All I have is PCI-X for my video card.

ThanksWould you please tell us the make and model computer of your computer? I think I'm not the only one who doubts that you really have no PCI slots. That is a desktop computer?A lack of PCI slots might indicate a lack of my Sig...You can use a PCI-X slot as a PCI slot I believe.. Not SURE.. What do you need with server technology and USB ports anyway?According to this source, How can I tell the difference between PCI, PCI-X and PCI Express?, "PCI Express slots are not compatible with PCI or PCI-X expansion cards."Dude, PCI-X is not PCI-E.. Stop trying to correct me..

Quote

You can use a PCI-X slot as a PCI slot I believe.. Not sure.. What do you need with server technology and USB ports anyway?

All I have is PCI-X

All I have is PCI-X for my video card.

Quote

All I have is PCI-X for my video card.

Dude, can you show me where I can buy a PCI-X video card?

I have attached an Insignia 20 LCD, NS 20 LCD, tv to my computer. The computer runs XP. Default MS 82845g/GL/GE/PE/GV graphics controller. I have tried CHANGING the resolution from one end to the other but still can't get it to be clear enough to use.

I searched for drivers and found none. I searched for the model and found NOTHING that helped. If anyone knows what I need to do or where I can find out please let me know.


Thanks


did you set up a 2nd monitor and put in on 32-bit color??? (settings wise-right CLICK desktop click properties, then settings, then advanced and change it there for 2nd monitor...also witht he two pics of the monitor is one grayed out???)What is the model number?

LCD TV usually have a low resolution, as does yours if it is a Insignia™ 20" LCD EDTV Monitor
Model: NS-20LCD

640 x 480 VGA pixel resolution - I Don't think it can go any higher than that.

Basically, what you bought is a high-quality TV but a very low quality LCD monitor..I took it back and they admitted it was a poor CHOICE for a monitor. I wish the guy who talked my wife into buying it had been there but at least I didn't waste too much time with it.

ThanksQuote

I took it back and they admitted it was a poor choice for a monitor. I wish the guy who talked my wife into buying it had been there but at least I didn't waste too much time with it.

Thanks

I'm wondering if my temps are too high. My pc has shut off on me twice now, once while playing a game. It's a new rig, just built it:
Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe
AMD Dual Core Athlon 64X2 4800+
1.25 GB Ram
XFX Geforce 7600GT 256MB

MB Temp: 35C (95F)
CPU Temp: 39C (102F)
GPU Temp: 44C (111F)
HDD Temp: 41C (106F)

*After running Need For Speed Most Wanted at the highest settings for about 3 minutes my GPU temp was 133F

Thanks for advice!You either didn't properly apply the thermal paste or you didn't correctly attach the HEATSINK and fan.

Or the general set up of your CASE is just a mess. More information needed..Quote

You either didn't properly apply the thermal paste or you didn't correctly attach the heatsink and fan.

Or the general set up of your case is just a mess. More information needed..

Wait, you saidFahrenheit. How much Celsius would that make?

If your PC is shutting down, it may be a temperature problem, but it could also be an inadequate PSU.

whats the CPU temp when you run a game?

PSU is a 450 watt XG Vigor power supply that is 8 months old. Is it possible I need more power than 450?

Hi people,not really up to scratch on pc's just bought a dvd ram drive and it will not play any dvd rom games,is this right and will i have to buy a dvd rom drive? its a sony dvd rw dw-g120a cheers in advance to any one who can help.
if you need system spec i shall post it.this drive should work with your games. will it read cd's or dvd movies?hi yes it will read both but every time i put a dvd rom game in it will not even register that there is a disc in.Are these game DVD's copies or originals ? ?

patio. 8-)they are all originals bought from gamethese are my dxdiag if anyone need------------------
System Information
------------------
Time of this report: 10/22/2006, 17:09:10
Machine name: MARTIN-STREET
Operating System: WINDOWS XP Home Edition (5.1, Build 2600) Service Pack 2 (2600.xpsp_sp2_gdr.050301-1519)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: ECS
System MODEL: M848
BIOS: Default System BIOS
Processor: AMD Athlon(tm) XP 2400+, MMX, 3DNow, ~2.0GHz
Memory: 1024MB RAM
Page File: 251MB used, 2210MB available
Windows Dir: C:\WINDOWS
DirectX VERSION: DirectX 9.0c (4.09.0000.0904)
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
DxDiag Version: 5.03.2600.2180 32bit Unicode

------------
DxDiag Notes
------------
DirectX Files Tab: No problems found.
Display Tab 1: No problems found.
Sound Tab 1: No problems found.
Sound Tab 2: No problems found.
Music Tab: No problems found.
Input Tab: No problems found.
Network Tab: No problems found.

--------------------
DirectX Debug Levels
--------------------
Direct3D: 0/4 (n/a)
DirectDraw: 0/4 (retail)
DirectInput: 0/5 (n/a)
DirectMusic: 0/5 (n/a)
DirectPlay: 0/9 (retail)
DirectSound: 0/5 (retail)
DirectShow: 0/6 (retail)

---------------
Display Devices
---------------
Card name: NVIDIA GeForce FX 5200 (Microsoft Corporation)
Manufacturer: NVIDIA
Chip type: GeForce FX 5200
DAC type: Integrated RAMDAC
Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_0322&SUBSYS_00000000&REV_A1
Display Memory: 128.0 MB
Current Mode: 1152 x 864 (32 bit) (60Hz)
Monitor: Plug and Play Monitor
Monitor Max Res: 1600,1200
Driver Name: nv4_disp.dll
Driver Version: 6.14.0010.5673 (English)
DDI Version: 9 (or higher)
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
Driver Date/Size: 8/4/2004 01:56:46, 4274816 bytes
WHQL Logo'd: Yes
WHQL Date Stamp: n/a
VDD: n/a
Mini VDD: nv4_mini.sys
Mini VDD Date: 8/3/2004 23:29:56, 1897408 bytes
Device Identifier: {D7B71E3E-4062-11CF-9975-0A2000C2CB35}
Vendor ID: 0x10DE
Device ID: 0x0322
SubSys ID: 0x00000000
Revision ID: 0x00A1
Revision ID: 0x00A1
Video Accel: ModeMPEG2_A ModeMPEG2_B ModeMPEG2_C ModeMPEG2_D ModeWMV9_B ModeWMV9_A
Deinterlace Caps: {212DC723-3235-44A4-BD29-E1652BBCC71C}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_MedianFiltering
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{212DC723-3235-44A4-BD29-E1652BBCC71C}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_MedianFiltering
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{212DC723-3235-44A4-BD29-E1652BBCC71C}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x32315659) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_MedianFiltering
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x32315659) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{212DC723-3235-44A4-BD29-E1652BBCC71C}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_MedianFiltering
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
Registry: OK
DDraw Status: Enabled
D3D Status: Enabled
AGP Status: Enabled
DDraw Test Result: Not run
D3D7 Test Result: Not run
D3D8 Test Result: Not run
D3D9 Test Result: Not run

-------------
Sound Devices
-------------
Description: C-Media Wave Device
Default Sound Playback: Yes
Default Voice Playback: Yes
Hardware ID: PCI\VEN_13F6&DEV_0111&SUBSYS_011113F6&REV_10
Manufacturer ID: 1
Product ID: 100
Type: WDM
Driver Name: cmaudio.sys
Driver Version: 5.12.0001.0643 (English)
Driver Attributes: Final Debug
WHQL Logo'd: Yes
Date and Size: 11/18/2002 15:51:40, 377358 bytes
Other Files:
Driver Provider: C-Media
HW Accel Level: Full
Cap FLAGS: 0xF5F
Min/Max Sample Rate: 100, 100000
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 17, 16
Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 17, 16
HW Memory: 0
Voice Management: No
EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: Yes, Yes
I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: Yes, Yes
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): Yes
Registry: OK
Sound Test Result: Not run

Description: Modem #0 Line Playback (emulated)
Default Sound Playback:Any firmware updates at Sony's site ? ?

How is the drive showing up in Control Panel/System/Hardware/Device Manager ? ?

patio. 8-)getting abit tech for me but i'll try it shows as dvd/cd rom drives expand this and it shows sony dvd rw dw-c120a is this what your asking for really sorry if not,like i said not really up to spec on pc's.hi still cant figure out why my dvd ram wont play dvd rom games can any one help or advise?Quote

Any firmware updates at Sony's site ? ?

I need to get a Dell Latitude D610 LAPTOP adapter. Problem is I was adviced to never pay over 20 for an adapter but the cheapest one I can FIND costs around 40 - the Dell site.
So where can I find these cheap adapters?

Secondly, Dell don't sell D610 adapters, but they do have others in close range. Will these work too?Quote

I need to get a Dell Latitude D610 laptop adapter. Problem is I was adviced to never pay over 20 for an adapter but the cheapest one I can find costs around 40 - the Dell site.
So where can I find these cheap adapters?

Secondly, Dell don't sell D610 adapters, but they do have others in close range. Will these work too?

When I try to connect to the internet, I receive no dial tone. All my cables are plugged in and conected. Is my modem garbage??Are you able to connect to the Internet at all? Are you on High Speed or is this a Dial Up Internet that you are using? Is it an internal or an external modem? If it's external, have you tried rebooting it by turning it off and waiting 15 seconds and then turning it back on? Are you using a router at all? Can you give us anymore specific information about your computer? Also is this a new problem? When did it start happening? Things like that are important information. Thanks.I have Dial Up Internet with an internal modem. It's a Dell computer. I've tried for about a week now to dial up-no luck. I'm not sure what signs to look for but my main concern is having to spend $$$ installing a new modem if it isn't necessary. There was a thunderstorm that passed through our area about a week and a half ago. I thought maybe the lightening was the cause. Is there any way I can tell? Any suggestions?? Thanks so much.Have you called your provider to see if they are aware of any issues? Also you can check your device manager. Right click on my computer and select manage from the list. Then go to device manager and check the status of your modem. Is there a yellow question mark beside it? Also what Operating System are you running?Quote from: Kaspro on September 17, 2007, 10:51:16 AM

When I try to connect to the internet, I receive no dial tone. All my cables are plugged in and conected. Is my modem garbage??

There was a thunderstorm that passed through our area about a week and a half ago. I thought maybe the lightening was the cause. Is there any way I can tell? Any suggestions?? Thanks so much.

Kaspro. Had exactly this situation a few years back on a US Robotics 56k dial up modem. It was affected by a nearby lightening strike (when everything was actually turned off--blew everything that had a small element in it like fridge lights etc.)You might be lucky and it may only be a phone line problem between the company's terminal box and your computer. However if other phone lines in the house are functioning then if it is not unique to your line to the "line" side of your modem then i fear a modem replacement will be in order. If you have the option try the modem in another computer and see if you get the same result--then at least you can go out and buy another knowing that you had to.best of luck,truenorth

Your modem is shot.

Can someone help me please.
I have just built my 2nd PC.

MB - Asus M"R32-MVP radeon express 3200 chipset
cpu - amd athlon x2 6000+
ram - 2gb GEIL ultra pc 6400 800mhz
Gpu - 2X sapphire radeon X1950 pro 512mb.
psu - 700w sli ready OCZ gamextream.

I have connected both cards correctly to the motherboard and the relevant power connections. Both cards are being recognised in xp/device manager. yet the CCC tells me that the interconnection bridges are connected wrongly. I have disconnected and swapped and reconnected in every possible way to no avail, CCC still tells me that they are not connected correctly, both connectors are right out the box new.

Any help would be a godsendhttp://www.tweakguides.com/ATICAT_3.html
Follow the GUIDE on that page (just that page) to completely remove your old drivers and install the latest ones.
Make sure that you read carefully through the pager to understand what you have to do before you start, and follow the instructions to the letter.Cool, thanks I will read this and act to the letter
Just to let you know, I only installed 1 of the x1950 pro cards and then the CCC from the box to begin with to make sure all ok, then I installed the 2nd 1950 pro card and bridge connectors but when I went to the CCC panel there wasn't EVEN crossfire in the list, so I uninstalled the drivers via add/remove and re installed from the box, hey presto crossfire in the CCC panel list but cant activate because I didnt connect the bridge connectors properly (im using the 2 by the way) so I swapped and reconnected them, still no cigar I then uninstalled the drivers again and proceeded to dowload the latest CCC drivers from ati site. installed them and yet again no cigar, bridge connector still not connected properly
although both cards are 512mb each, when I installed MOH airborne it had in the video settings that there was like 800mb+ video memory . If you need any more info just ask. Thanks for the help so far Tell you what . . . power down and ensure both cards are plugged in as well as the connector.
Then boot up, and open device manager (right click my computer - manage) and expand the category "Display Devices". What is shown in there?
A screenshot would be useful, or a list of what you see.This is what is their under display adapters

Radeon X1950 Pro
Radeon X1950 Pro
Radeon X1950 Pro Secondary
Radeon X1950 Pro Secondary

Exactly. in properties both say the device is working properly and no conflicts. Ok Ive just followed every step in that tweakguide page you gave me, even tried installing .net framework before the ati drivers and still getting same ISSUES, stupid bridge connecters connected the wrong way How odd . . . are you sure that you have everything connected correctly?
If so, I'm afraid I'm out of ideas, hopefully someone else will be able to help you out.

Hello gents, I have a question. Is this a good cpu: AMD x2 3800 dual core processor
Thx for any responses.what do you want to hear?sure i say yes but how can we JUDGE it without comparing it with another PROCESSORS Depends on what you will be using your machine for

I would say it is a decent CPU... bit LACKING on the cashe memory (512k per core, if memory serves correct.) Has good overclocking ability, but the corresponding Intel chip, E6300, has better performance (read a review on the AMD on custompc a while back)Quote from: LOTUS1324 on September 18, 2007, 07:23:08 PM

Hello gents, I have a question. Is this a good cpu: AMD x2 3800 dual core processor
Thx for any responses.

I realize that this is not exactly a computer issue but here GOES. I'm using an OLD computer power supply to power quiet 12 V cooling fans for electronic equipment in an entertainment unit. I am running 3 120 mm fans that draw 1.4 W max. with a 200 W power supply. I have 2 old PS's, the oldest has a switch that will turn it on and off but has a noisy cooling fan. The newer PS has a quieter fan but won't turn on (I'm guessing) without a signal from the motherboard; it worked OK before I removed it from a computer. My question is two part; can I disconnect the cooling fan in the older PS since I'll be using less than 5 W of power total without overheating the PS? Alternatively is there a way to "jump" the newer power supply so that it will turn on without the motherboard connection? ThanksTo jump a power supply you take a paper clip. bend it into a U shape and touch one end to a green wire of the power supply and the other to any black wire. this should turn it on.Quote

can I disconnect the cooling fan in the older PS since I'll be using less than 5 W of power total without overheating the PS?

I just came by this board in an hour of need but I desperately need help.

My computer, a Dell Inspiron 600 with Windows XP Professional, had its hard drive replaced about 3 months ago because it got scratched. Since then I've had the windows operating system on it's own drive and my own personal documents on another far larger ONE. It's been working fine for the most part, but since I've been back at school it's been behaving wierdly. When I closed the screen or left it idle for a while, the screen would turn black and nothing would GET it back to normal. I'd shut off the computer for a while and turn it back on, and all would be fine.

When this happened two days ago, I tried to press crtl+alt+del, nothing happened, and then I shut it down. When it turned back on, it said that there was no bootable device. Three more tries, the same thing. After the fourth, though, it went to Windows and worked fine, aside from shutting down with a "Windows critical process has been INTERRUPTED" screen, where I'd just have it reload Windows, for about a day. Today I noticed that AIM shut down and I couldn't get it back up, even from the start menu. I left the room for about an hour and the entire screen, aside from the background was blank, no start menu bar or anything. Now when I go to restart, I only get the "No bootable devices" screen.

Is there anything I can do about this? And what in the heck is the cause?"had its hard drive replaced about 3 months ago because it got scratched." How did a hard drive inside a laptop get "scratched"? :-?

Have you tried:
booting into the BIOS and seeing if it sees the hard drive / turned off any power controls in the BIOS / booted to Safemode- dbl-click on the hard drive - done "Properties" / Tools / put a check in both boxes and rebooted / tried reinstallin the OS with a real Windows cd?

Alan <><

Quote

"had its hard drive replaced about 3 months ago because it got scratched." How did a hard drive inside a laptop get "scratched"? Huh

My computer, a Dell Inspiron 600 with Windows XP Professional, had its hard drive replaced about 3 months ago because it got scratched. Since then I've had the windows operating system on it's own drive and my own personal documents on another far larger one. It's been working fine for the most part, but since I've been back at school it's been behaving wierdly. When I closed the screen or left it idle for a while, the screen would turn black and nothing would get it back to normal. I'd shut off the computer for a while and turn it back on, and all would be fine.

"had its hard drive replaced about 3 months ago because it got scratched." How did a hard drive inside a laptop get "scratched"? :-?

Have you tried:
booting into the BIOS and seeing if it sees the hard drive / turned off any power controls in the BIOS / booted to Safemode- dbl-click on the hard drive - done "Properties" / Tools / put a check in both boxes and rebooted / tried reinstallin the OS with a real Windows cd?

Alan <><

Im a computer noob so HELP me please. :p

I play Games and it takes a very long time to load maps and stuff. I cant even run battlefield 2 becuase its too choppy to even do anything. And to get out of the game is *censored*, takes about 5 min of waiting for the program to exit.

Another game i have is called Enemy Territory, its like a 5 year old game and doesnt really NEED much to operate but the maps take about 1min to load and the first 5-7min of the game is too choppy to play, then it starts to get smooth. I ASK ppl how long it takes them and they say about 2 seconds max!!! and they get no choppyness.

So will buying mor ram hlp with these problems?? I see i have 382mb ram but the sticker on my comp says i should have 512mb. I herd that my vid card maby using some of my ram too. So if i buy 512mb more ram, will i have a gig of ram or will i have only 894mb ram?


Here are my computer specs.
Manufacturer: Gateway
Processor: AMD Sempron(tm) Processor 3400+, MMX, 3DNow, ~2.0GHz
Memory: 382MB RAM
Hard Drive: 155 GB
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce 6100
Monitor: Plug and Play Monitor
Sound Card: Realtek AC97 Audio
Speakers/Headphones:
Keyboard: USB Root Hub
Mouse: USB Root Hub
Mouse Surface:
Operating System: Windows XP Home Edition (5.1, Build 2600) Service Pack 2 (2600.xpsp_sp2_gdr.050301-1519)The missing RAM is being used by your onboard video card
More RAM would definitely help performance, both in-game and in general, but a separate video card would really boost your frame rates
As for the slow loading, it sounds to me like either a slow HDD or a fragmented one
When was the last time you defragmented?Quote

The missing RAM is being used by your onboard video card
More RAM would definitely help performance, both in-game and in general, but a separate video card would really boost your frame rates
As for the slow loading, it sounds to me like either a slow HDD or a fragmented one
When was the last time you defragmented?

Its both your ram and video, battlefield 2 needs alot of ram and if you can afford it max out your ram .
Battlefield 2 takes minuim 1gb to run smooth

With your current setup, battlefield 2 is out of the question. The 2 posts above me are the truth. I have a gig of RAM & a 6600 GT, and I can only run BF2 @ 40fps with moderate detial & resolution.

As for your problems with ET...that just doesn't sound right. I used to play that game WAY back when it first came out (3½ years ago, or something, I think), and my computer was PATHETIC at that time!

1.0 GHz Processor
384MB SDR RAM
40GB 5200 RPM HDD
PCI Geforce 3 Ti200

ET, at minimum detial in 800x600 ran pretty decently. I was probably right around 30fps unless combat got really messy.
My point is this: your computer shouldn't take 2 minutes to get up to speed. That sounds like you either have bad hardware, or your system is bogged down with other processes. Do you have any virus/adware/spyware scanning software on your computer?

My pc broke down the other day so i had it repaired in a local pc shop. It turned out that my inno3d geforce fx5900 video card was the problem. I was desperate since i had a deadline the that same day so I immediately bought the video card recommended to me by the shopkeeper (sparkle geforce fx 5200). It was stated in the box that the hardware's features are: 256mb ddr, dvi-i, ty-out. when i checked the product in the net awhile ago, it clearly stated that the sparkle geforce fx 5200 is only 128mb.

did i get a fake product? how i do examine the product?

thanks in advance.From a command prompt type in dxdiag and press enter.and in addition, to get to the command prompt click on the start button and SELECT "run". then type in "cmd" without the quotes.You shouldnt listen to shopkeepers, i guess. The FX 5200 sucks, and if u had the FX 5900 before it, ur going to be very sad.. unless u BUY the X1950XT and end it.

There are 2 version of the FX 5200 - a 128MB version and a 256MB.

The 256MB is a JOKE that was conducted by nVidia during 2003. Obviously the FX 5200 does not need more than 128MB and 256MB is completely, 100% worthless.

Luckily, 128MB of DDR RAM dosent cost as much as GDDR3, or even GDDR4 RAM, used by more current cards, so the 128MB or 256MB version cost abt the same.

Point of story, its PROBABLY not authentic, but it dosent matter. Did he really suggest the FX 5200? What was it that u said u needed it for?i needed my pc to finish my term paper the next day. i've had the fx5900 for 3 years before it breaking down.

i'm not very knowledgable when it comes to hardware so i USUALLY ask the shopkeeper for advice. she showed me a radeeon 128mb and 510mb and this geforce 5200 256. my previous videocard was a geforce so i opted to buy the geforece instead of the radeeons - i guess i made a really bad minstake.

lol. i feel very stupid.

On the other hand, if you're not a big gamer that card will do just fine.Quote

i needed my pc to finish my term paper the next day. i've had the fx5900 for 3 years before it breaking down.

i'm not very knowledgable when it comes to hardware so i usually ask the shopkeeper for advice. she showed me a radeeon 128mb and 510mb and this geforce 5200 256. my previous videocard was a geforce so i opted to buy the geforece instead of the radeeons - i guess i made a really bad minstake.

lol. i feel very stupid.

My pc broke down the other day so i had it repaired in a local pc shop. It turned out that my inno3d geforce fx5900 video card was the problem. I was desperate since i had a deadline the that same day so I immediately bought the video card recommended to me by the shopkeeper (sparkle geforce fx 5200). It was stated in the box that the hardware's features are: 256mb ddr, dvi-i, ty-out. when i checked the product in the net awhile ago, it clearly stated that the sparkle geforce fx 5200 is only 128mb.

did i get a fake product? how i do examine the product?

thanks in advance.

You shouldnt listen to shopkeepers, i guess. The FX 5200 sucks, and if u had the FX 5900 before it, ur going to be very sad.. unless u buy the X1950XT and end it.

is it possible to defrag my mp3 player? will it damage it or corrupt my music files? when i was defraging my hd's, my mp3 player's analysis looked LIKE it had a lot of fragmented files.

Or just COPY the files to the hard drive, FORMAT the player and then copy it back. It would probably be quicker as well.there is a slim chance you can defrag any MP3 (you cant on i-pods at LEAST) Possile to damage or corrupt files but it is very slimQuote

Or just copy the files to the hard drive, format the player and then copy it back. It would probably be quicker as well.

Background: A little while ago, the audio on my Windows XP Pro SP2 system
stopped working. I was using the on-board audio card and never had a problem
before. Then, the audio device just wasn't recognized by windows anymore.
When I WENT to the "Sounds and Audio DEVICES Properties" window from the
Control Panel, it would tell me that no audio device was detected. Looking
in the Device Manager, however, under the "Sound, Video and Game Controllers"
section, all drivers were INSTALLED properly, with no IRQ conflicts, and no
yellow exclamation points on any of the sound devices or codecs. I also
verified that my speakers were working on another system, obviously, and
ensured that the audio card was enabled in my motherboard's BIOS. I
downloaded the latest drivers for my motherboard (and on-board audio card),
uninstalled and successfully re-installed those drivers multiple times.
Still no sound! I even went out and bought a new PCI audio card, installed
it, downloaded and installed the latest drivers for it. STILL no luck. This
is when I really began to scratch my head.

Next, I tried a to do a non-destructive "Repair" of Windows using that
option from the Windows XP setup CD. I got errors doing that , and I gave up
after SEVERAL ATTEMPTS. Finally, on a cloned backup hard drive, I
re-installed Windows completely. Lo and behold, the audio worked fine!

This leads me to believe that some part of the Windows XP audio "sub-system"
on my old hard drive is corrupt or has corrupted files. Does that make sense?

So that I don't have to start from scratch with a fresh XP installation and
re-install all my apps, I would like to be able to just re-install the audio
sub-system of Windows XP on my old hard drive. Is this possible?

Is there just a list of DLLs that I can extract from the Windows XP setup CD
and overwrite? If so, what is that list? What services will I need to stop
in order to do this? Will I need to re-register any DLLs?

Help in this matter would be GREATLY appreciated.
Quote

So that I don't have to start from scratch with a fresh XP installation and
re-install all my apps, I would like to be able to just re-install the audio
sub-system of Windows XP on my old hard drive. Is this possible?

They broke it...insist they fix it.

Even if it involves driving.

patio. 8-)grr! That same exact thing happened to me! The guys at Best Buy just gave us a new computer tho... (I think it was literally the day after I bought it). grr and now I'm currently having problems. *Waves FIST in air*Quote

grr! That same exact thing happened to me! The guys at Best Buy just gave us a new computer tho... (I think it was literally the day after I bought it). grr and now I'm currently having problems. *Waves fist in air*

They had unplugged my d: drive during troubleshooting and forgot to plug it back in. Then, they messed up the Bios and had to keep it another 5 hours. It's fixed - for now.

1. What is the most likely CAUSE of a "CMOS Checksum failure" message when a PC boots up? How can you quickly confirm the diagnosis and how can it be fixed? 2. Explain the differences between L1 cache and L2 cache in TERMS of location, speed and cost.Having trouble with your homework assignment? wappie......... Here's your answer.............
[size=22]Google[/size]
dl65 Quote

Having trouble with your homework assignment?

wappie......... Here's your answer.............
[size=22]Google[/size]
dl65

How did you know it was a homework assignment?

Hi i just resenly formatted my laptop that has a build in wirelesss
When formatt is done and finish without no error and problem
i when to connection and my WL is gone
I check in my device manager and the driver is not EVEN there
I never had a CD that come with the laptop for installing Wireless
ANYWAY idea of how am i going to get my WL connection back
XP sp1
Help pleaseWhat is the make/model of your laptop?

You could go to the manufacturers website and download the required driver. You should have received a CD with the laptop which would include system drivers... unless they are on a seperate partition on your hard drive? I think you are right there was TWO partition F and C, i also formatted all and MADE it as 1 partition.
how would i know which wireless driver to download because most of my laptop label
are rip off.
Thank anyway i will reply backOnce you have the model number you should be able to identify the correct one... If there is more than one available for your model of laptop, it'll just be a case of trial and error until you find the correct one.Quote from: Vortex_UK on September 18, 2007, 04:55:28 AM

I think you are right there was two partition F and C, i also formatted all and made it as 1 partition.

My office printer in an interval time after power on or after i finished printing something, will always make SOUND then take a PAPER by itself but not printing.

In simple thing, it always want a paper standby. Of course it annoying thing because
i must take the paper out before i can print ANYTHING else.

Please help me, thanks it should be the printer SETTING,check it. if you don't know try to uninstall the printer,then re-install.
and update the driver,don't USE the disc that provided with the package,try downloading the latest version from the manufacturer.
http://software.canon-europe.com/products/0010104.asp

see if anything change