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Previously, When I changed GOOGLE accounts on my Windows 7 PC's Chrome browser, a second instance of the browser would appear in the Taskbar.  I BELIEVE I changed accounts by clicking an icon to the right of the address bar.  That second instance of the browser would contain the bookmarks of the second account, and when I opened a new tab, that new tab would still be linked to the second account.

Then, I updated to Chrome Version 64.0.3282.186.  Now, when I try to change accounts, the behavior is completely different:  I no longer see that icon by the address bar.  I can apparently only change accounts by clicking on my photo, then clicking on "Sign out," then siginng into the second account.  However, once I do this, I STILL see the bookmarks of my FIRST account!  If I open another tab, it REVERTS to the first account.  If I open Settings, it shows me still logged into my first account.

So HOW can I completely and temporarily switch to my second account on the PC?!  Why in the world would I continue to see bookmarks, History, etc. from my first account, once I REQUESTED a change to another account?!  Can anyone tell me how to quickly and safely change Google accounts on my browser?

Hi!

I have old notebook and want to install there Vista.
Vista for reason that it is last WINDOWS with single partition. I need to leave rest 3 partitions as primary for other OSes, so Win7 and later are not possible to use.
I know that XP still had selection of filesystem - FAT32 or NTFS. I don't want XP, really.
Exist any fix to force Vista install to FAT32 partition?

THANK you for each help.
Miro1 question...why does the Vista partition need to be FAT 32 ? ?I have on notebook as main installed MS-DOS 7.10 and it can access FAT32.
DOS is main OS and this is reason.

I know that existing tools to handle NTFS, but I never seen READ/Write and even not outside the tool.
Or is any?

Miro(deleted what i typed when i reread that you have a notebook)

Was going to suggest adding a 2nd hard drive as FAT32

Would you happen to have a desktop computer to do all of this with, OR run virtual systems on the Vista OS?
Here is something that could be attempted. One would imagine that the DOS system does not need to get into any the system files used by VISTA. The only area of common interest would be the documents the user. The documents for the user can be moved to folder in another partition. The other partition can be FAT32.


Here is something that could be attempted. One would imagine that the DOS program does not need to get into any the system files used by feast to. The only area of common interest would be the documents and settings.
The documents for the user can be moved to folder in another partition. The other partition can be FAT32.

The user might try this: create a NTFS partition large enough to hold the operating system for VISTA. Create another partition using FAT32. Move the my documents folder over to the SIMILAR folder on the new partition made in FAT32.


Here is something that could be attempted. One would imagine that the DOS program does not need to get into any the system files used by feast to. The only area of common interest would be the documents and settings.
The documents for the user can be moved to folder in another partition. The other partition can be FAT32.

The user might try this: create a NTFS partition large enough to hold the operating system for VISTA. Create another partition using FAT32. Move the my documents folder over to the similar folder on the new partition made in FAT32.


Here is something that could be attempted. One would imagine that the DOS program does not need to get into any the system files used by feast to. The only area of common interest would be the documents and settings.
The documents for the user can be moved to folder in another partition. The other partition can be FAT32.

The user might try this: create a NTFS partition large enough to hold the operating system for VISTA. Create another partition using FAT32. Move the my documents folder over to the similar folder on the new partition made in FAT32.

How to move "My Documents" is EXPLAINED somewhere.

The OP  might try this: create a NTFS partition large enough to hold the operating system for VISTA. Create another partition using FAT32. Move the my documents folder over to the similar folder on the new partition made in FAT32. See Here...

But after a quick read of the procedure i doubt it'll go on a notebook....Thank you, will try later.

Miro

After having a virus problem a few years ago Windows 7 Pro, 64 bit was reinstalled on my computer, however, it no longer had Windows Media Player.  After many futile attempts to get a Windows Media download from Microsoft, I gave up and tried other media PROGRAMS that I was equally unable to download my CDs to so that I could burn music for my car CD player.  I finally got really ticked about this and contacted Microsoft and a very nice tech went into my computer and apparently, Windows Media was there all the time, unbeknownst to me, and all he had to do was check a few boxes and I had Windows Media Player.  However, when I tried to Rip a CD it told me that I didn't have the proper Codecs to do that.  Same message I was getting when I tried to rip a CD from other media programs.  My question is how do I get the proper Codecs for these CDs for Windows Media?  I've looked into it and there have been dire warnings about some of these Codec downloads so I don't know which ones to trust or which ones I need.  I'm not all that tech savvy so any answers to my problem have to be at kindergarten tech level.  THANK youI last used Windows Media Player to burn MP3 CD’s for my car audio and don’t recall it needing any extra codecs.  And it was Win7 back then too.  So you may have other issues or simply too much has been installed/uninstalled and its now lost the plot.


Don’t know what you have tried with the other media players, but what about trying VLC, it has loads of all the common codecs inbuilt and i’ve had no issues with it burning CD’s for the car.VLC was one of the other media players I tried and I still could not rip a CD.  Kept getting the same sort of message as Windows Media kicked out. It was all about Codecs.  Thank you for your reply.If you used VLC and it didn't work it's likely the burner...

You also may be running onto copy protection which we will not assist with...Before having to reinstall Windows 7 Pro, I'd never had a problem ripping a CD with Windows Media Player.  So, I don't think it is a matter of copywrite problems, and I don't think that media players would give you the option of ripping if it was illegal to do so for your own personal usage.  I just do not like leaving the original CDs in my car, subject to heat or theft, so making copies preserves my originals.  The warnings are pretty specific about lack of proper Codec(s).  Thank you for your replyVLC includes practically every codec there is...somethin else is amiss... Quote

The warnings are pretty specific about lack of proper Codec(s)

The error message is caused by the broken rip music location, which can be fixed as follows. In WMP's library, PLEASE click Organize, and select Manage libraries - Music . What locations are listed there? If there are any unavailable locations, remove them, and also make sure that a Default save location is set. Do the same for the other libraries (Videos, Pictures, Recorded TV).

If that doesn't help, close WMP, open Windows Explorer, right-click the Music library, select Properties, and click Restore Defaults. After that, make sure that a save location is set (as indicated by a checkmark).

Hello,

Recently for no known reason (no new software or hardware added) my pc will sometimes "turn on" when i hit the power button but my monitors will not display anything.  After sometimes hitting the reset button 1-3 more times I will get a normal boot with windows loading screen and be able to log into windows.  I updated my Nvidia drivers to the latest drivers soon after this started and the issue is still persistent.  I then went to check if there were any new Windows Updates that could be related to the issue.  Windows Update indicates 7 "important" updates with 5 of the 7 being security updates.  When i try to update it fails to install all 7 and sometimes gives me error code: 800F0900, and occasionally after a restart it will also give me error code 80246007.

I have researched some of the fixes for these issues and have tried almost everything suggested such as:

disabling AVG and firewall when trying to run windows updates
using network diagnostic tool
using windows update troubleshooter
cleaning up registry errors with CCCleaner
Running full scan with AVG, MalwareBytes, SuperAnti-Spyware free editions
Running System Update Readiness tool
Running sfc /scannow tool

None of these methods have indicated any errors or corruptions were present.  I do not know what to do anymore at this point.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!

SPECS:

Windows 7 Pro SP1 (upgraded from home edition, do not have working disc anymore)
Intel Core i7-3820 3.6GHz
ASRock x79 Extreme6/GB LGA 2011 Mobo
24GB (6x4gb) Kingston Hyper X DDR3 SDRAM 1600Mhz
ASUS ROG OC STRIX GTX 1070 8GB
910W PC Power and Cooling PSU

-Dee

Update issues are a Free phone call to live support at MS...

Meanwhile i would try reverting back to the original drivers that shipped with the card...new drivers ain't always better drivers.If you FACED this type of problem then follow this steps-

1- Click the start button and go to the control panel
2- Select system and security and then select windows update
3-  On the left PANE select the option that reads “Update History”, this will show all the updates and those that have failed, along with the error code.

check the services related to the windows update are started and set to automatic on the computer.   follow this steps

1-  Click the start button, and then, in the Search box, type services.msc, and then press enter.
2-  In-service list, look for the below-mentioned services and make sure that service is started and set automatic

Otherwise, Try installing each update manually and check.
and please run the network dignostic tool incase of INTERNET failure.
Restore your computer by following below steps:
1.Go to start MENU
2.Write Restore in the search bar.
3.Open restore window.
4.Click on next button.

Please see the attached image

5. Select restore point .
6. Restore your computer to an earlier restore point.

I acquired a USB pen drive that was clearly copy protected by another system. I have bypassed many system but for reason I cannot shake this copy protection. There is not lock button or anything and even diskpart fell short. I do not need this drive it is just an exercise of the mind. Any ideas??Nobody here will help you. 
Here is why.
1. This forum does not like helping people break the law.
2. If somebody has something very valuable, they would use scheme to  go way beyond  the usual methods. There are  books about this.  Dude the drive is clean,it is  just copy protected but whatever. Accidentally locking yourself out of a drive could happen. This is just a mental exercise. I am Kane not Snowden. Pff!!As Geek stated we cant help here with unlocking or duplicating a copy protected drive.

I got one once for free at a trade SHOW that was for advertising a product with videos etc on it. Was hoping to wipe clean and have as a free useful thumb drive for data but it was read-only and it was manufactured as read-only to take a 1 time write of info. I cracked it open to see if there was any way to fix its write ability but it was protected on the chip which was the controller for the flash memory. I tossed it out.

If drive is one of these, just toss it out and dont waste time trying to unlock it to be able to write to it.SpankBot,
Maude you mean something else.
There is a special USB drive that requires a password. Without the password you either can not see all of the drive or what you see is scrambled.

You can either buy a drive with that feature or you can do it in software. The hardware type is much harder to crack.  Here is an article that talks about that kind of USB drive.

How To Password-Protect A USB Drive
Quote

Nowadays, USB drives are capable of storing huge amount of data, even up to 1TB! With access to such capacity, we prefer to keep all our important data on USB sticks to keep it with us all the time. However, such portability of important data also raises protection concern. USB drives are portable and very small in size and manufacturers are aiming for making them even smaller with each evolution, which means you can easily lose huge amounts of data in an instant.

he Kingston DataTraveler Locker+ puts government-grade security onto a flash drive for the masses, with 256-bit AES hardware-based encryption for an extremely reasonable price ($14 street for 8GB). Also available in capacities of 4GB ($12 street), 16GB ($26 street) and 32GB ($65 street), the drive offers strong encryption for personal and business use that is no more inconvenient than entering a password.

This is pretty cut and dry

BC_Programmer: again this was an exercise on the mind. And you can dangle a solution if you like. I will never need your help. In this life or the next. There is no drive.

i need to RENAME more than 3000 folders which is available in rout folder C:\Users\anees\Desktop\Trail

based on list in excel file

in my excel file column A have Existing folder NAME
and column B have new name which we need to have

kindly help me for writing one VBA


i have the below code but it shows some error

SUB rename_folder()
Const FILEPATH As String = "C:\Users\anees\Desktop\Trail"
Dim strfile As String
Dim filenum As String
strfile = Dir(FILEPATH)

Dim old_name, new_name As String
For i = 2 To Sheets(1).Range("a1").End(xlDown).Row

strOldDirName = FILEPATH & Sheets(1).Cells(i, 1).Value
strNewDirName = FILEPATH & Sheets(1).Cells(i, 3).Value
Name strOldDirName As strNewDirName

Next i
End Sub

While using Windows 7 home  32 bit and I go a message that says I need the SP-1 update.
Well, I goofed around, did not get it and later shut down the PC.

Now I trun the PC back on and go into windows 7. It is stall the same. No SP-1, but no the message does not show up. What does that mean? Why doesn't the message show up again? I ask for updates and it says nothing about SP-1.

I am confused. 
Either I have it or not.   
If not, why will it not recommend it? 

You should have it...Patio,
  Now it says I have it! 
  Did you do that? 

Anyway, I now have Windows 7 SP-1.Once you have SP1 installed you might see about 260 or so more updates. Not sure if your system has already prompted you yet or already ran all those after SP1.Brief review.
I had to install my Windows 7 Home again on this Dell 755 desktop. After it was installed, I got lots of updates, about 190 or more.

Now yesterday I go a message that I need SP1. I did not have SP-1 then. I started to  update to SP-1, but was it did not work. So I think.
Now today, after reading Patio's remark, I checked again and it says I have it.

Oh well, If it works, I am OK. Bad news.
Windows 7 SP01 blew up today.   
Startup repair did not work. The cause is unknown. 

I used Maximum Reflect to restore  from an image I made  this week. Now I am back to a point bedsore I got the SP-1 update.  Maye I will not do SP-1 soon.   

Has this ever happened to you?
Did you install any drivers or software prior to the failure that could be the cause other than Windows 7 SP1?

Is the hardware healthy? ( I think I heard about you having issues with this same Dell 755 system in the past where it will all of a sudden have a severe problem requiring an OS repair or reinstallation )

*Note: If there was an issue with SP1 or updates after that, the problem should show up right away or upon the NEXT boot of the system when file(s) altered during the update process used during boot are critical. So if no updates and then all of a sudden you have a crashed computer you then have to look at hardware failure of some kind or what you did last that nuked the windows install.Thanks DaveLembke,
The photo software I like is very old and sometimes does not install right.
I will CHECK that out. Meanwhile I am making more restore points just in case. Today I got more updates to install and I have been holding off letting them do what they have to do.
So here I go again!   What do you mean Win7 blew up ? ?
Was it a clean install ? ? Quote from: patio on April 21, 2018, 11:27:27 AM

What do you mean Win7 blew up ? ?
Was it a clean install ? ?

Actually i think it's time for a new HDD...

Can't keep happenin over and over...it ain't Win7...

Yes, the old thing does have a know hardware flaw, but I don't see how that would corrupt the updates. Other downloads and installs seem to go well.

i am running windows 7 x64 pro.
i have a analog to usb converter cable
but i NEED a driver, can anyone help

Thanks

MikeThe adapter itself should have a driver for it, then through a virtual Game Port under USB identity you should be able to detect it from the game where the game should see it as a physical port. Then its a matter of game etc detecting that joystick and calibrating it sometimes in game control settings before playing game to map out button(s) and stick controls. Support for that ended at Windows 98SE.

 It would work better paired with a older computer with a 15-pin Game Port .... I have seen some people SNEAK by to get older joysticks working by installing an old sound card that has the port on it, but that sound card would need to have a driver that is compatible with Windows 7, which might be a matter of forcing a Windows XP era driver onto Windows 7 in which Windows 7 would warn that its not signed for 7, but could be done.

More info on the port here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Game_port

I havent been SUCCESSFUL with any of the Gameport to USB adapters having tried 2 different ones without success, so I have an older Core 2 Duo system with an older Creative LABS sound card that has the 15 pin Game Port for Joystick and my PS1 type controller which is also 15-pin Game Port. Only difference between my system and yours would be that mine is running Windows XP which Creative Labs made a driver for the Windows 98/Me era PCI Sound Card around 2001 through extended product support. I can get my sound card EXACT model if you want to search for that specific card on ebay etc. I havent tried it with 7, but many XP drivers can be forced to run on 7.

n7iIve got a Toshiba c660/c660d laptop that is BOOTING up and shutting down very slow i want to access the recovery partition and take it back to its factory settings.
when i start the process it ask me for a password could any one tell me where i get this password from.
Ive had the computer a few years now and still using win 7
Any help would be much APPRECIATED thanks jhaddany chance you can screenshot that "enter password" box and attach it here?
have you tried the usual culprits; admin, administrator, password and leaving it blank?
next, you could always get the Windows 7 OS DOWNLOADED from MICROSOFT here; https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows7 and start from scratch.
I'm not sure how to take a screen shot i know its something ive done in the past i thought there was a screen shot button on the computer but cant see one on here.
When i start the process i get an analogue box where i select the country i'm in then it takes me to another analogue box , it gives me the option of homegroupuser or NEW, then below it asks me for the password.
I've tried typing in admin, administrator and leaving it blank but it still doesn't accept any of them.
Thanks for your helpI've solved it by selecting new instead of home group user and it accepted it leaving the password blank.
Thank you very much for your help much appreciatedcool, and good luck going forward with your task.

My sister-in-law gave me an old Dell Inspiron 13 laptop. The OS seems to have a corrupted webio.dll issue which I can't fix with any solution I can find on the internet. The laptop doesn't seem to come with a recovery disk, but there is a recovery partition within it.

As I run the recovery, I was prompted to log in to the administrator account, which is not same with the one in User Account:



I've tried all the possible passwords that my sister-in-law can remember, but non works.

Any solution to this?

Thank you.It matters which Windows OS you have.
https://www.zdnet.com/article/windows-10-tip-how-to-enable-the-built-in-administrator-account-and-why-you-shouldnt/
The above is for windows 10.

In Windows XP you boot in safe mode and the administrator might have a blank password.

If you are unable to get in in the system the proper way, you might consider a  sort of kind of of 'hack' by using a LINUX DEMO CD. It is rather involved.
But before doing that, watch some VIDEOS. Search You Tube for:
Videos of how to enable the built-in administrator account
..and you might find a solution.   Hi Geek,

Thank you. I am able to run the recovery with the enabled built-in administrator account.

Cheers!Glad it worked.
What system? Windows XP?
Sure looks like it...may be Win2K.The lower part of the screenshot looks like Windows 7. The upper part has $HomegroupUser$ in the list- that suggests Windows 7 SINCE that is when MS added Homegroups.Good catch BC...thanx.Geek, it's a Win 7.

I thought this board is for Windows Vista and 7? 

Cheers ^^
You were in the right place.

Out of the blue my computer shows two Documents folders. I'm reluctant to delete one of them because it might delete both.
Anyone see this happen before? What can I do?
You SURE you didn't just open 2 INSTANCES of it and the focused side by side ? ?
They are identical...i doubt they are duplicates if you know what i mean...Ahaaaa...just took a 2nd LOOK...the 2nd one is SHARED...which means it aint a duplicate...it means it is shared with another drive/partition or PC...

No worries...i'd leave both alone...1 on the left is the original BTW.Thanks, patio! It might have recognized my new tablet.You're more than WELCOME...

Not sure if posting on the right forum, so if moved I will understand. One of my computers which has windows 7 started getting black squares that blinked when the cursor is moved over them, moved and also some remained still. It doesn't happen all of the time but enough to be irritating. I've run malware and virus programs but am not finding anything. Could my monitor be failing? I have another monitor I could try but haven't yet. I've had monitors fail before but never like this if that is the case.

Computer: HP Pavillion S5120W, 32 bit, 4 GIGS ram and I use Chrome browser.Try another monitor. If it still does that it could also be the VIDEO card.Thanks. The bad thing is, it doesn't happen a lot, just when I'm reading an article I'm really interested in.so it only happens within your browser?do you have any HOSTS file modification or adblocker add-on?
Not sure on the HOSTS file modification but no adblocker. I haven't MADE any HOSTS modification and I don't think the wife has either.what is your browser?
have you tried reading your articles with another browser?
Quote from: zinger on May 15, 2018, 02:19:21 PM

One of my computers which has windows 7 started getting black squares that blinked when the cursor is moved over them, moved and also some remained still.

Since I was having so much trouble recovering on another computer, I wanted to make a recovery system for my wife's computer. The computer won't recognize that the DVD+RW (which is recommended to use) that it has been formatted. I even formatted it on another computer but still no go.just checking...

the unit on the wife's PC is a DVD unit, capable of reading RW's.
and the DVD-RW you created on the other PC has been closed, or finalised or whatever it's called these days. Quote from: Mark. on May 16, 2018, 12:01:00 AM

just checking... the DVD-RW you created on the other PC has been closed, or finalised or whatever it's called these days.

I am running Windows 7 and Ubuntu (dual-boot) on a Lenovo machine.

I recently installed the GNU/Linux distro. One or two days afterward, I noticed that the clock on the system tray was out of sync by about five hours. On a hunch, I checked the Services applet and saw that the Windows Time service was disabled. Naturally, I changed the setting to AUTORUN or autostart with my ADMINISTRATIVE privilege.

That seemed to solve the problem temporarily. However, the next day the clock was out of sync again. When I checked services, it showed that Windows Time services was "stopped." By the way, the first time I noticed this problem I manually updated the time by GOING into the "time and date" settings. This would solve the problem only temporarily.

Interestingly, I have not had this problem with the Ubuntu partition, EXCEPT today when I noticed the time was out of sync but it quickly re-synced itself a few seconds after logging into the desktop.

At this point, I am annoyed and worried that it might be something more serious. I also tried changing the Internet time server without success (i.e. the clock still keeps getting out of sync by several hours). I only have two other hypothesis to test. The first is that the BIOS battery is dying —this is a laptop, though, so I do not know how the motherboard is set up or whether it EVEN has a BIOS battery or not.

The second hypothesis is malware. I also downgraded my AV software recently. Incidentally, I had some problems with the Windows Firewall not working after that, but it is fixed now.

Any helpful advice would be appreciated.BIOS battery ony shows system time in the BIOS...new battery however is 4 Bucks...part # CR 2032.

Hi, as of YESTERDAY, I have an unwanted bar, or strange TOOL bar style 'object', at the top of my HOME page. It happened after I tried to delete a folder, which somehow went wrong and got 'caught' on my home page above my icons. It bears the NAME of the original folder, and can be stretched, but cannot be removed. I tried to do this by restarting my PC, but it's still there. is there any WAY to remove it?Sounds strange. Can you post an image of your screen?

Hello everyone

I'm an ordinary guy but I need to KNOW what's wrong with my windows 7 laptop. I've been having problems with the intel My Wifi technology with this computer for many years now. I have to manually activate intel My Wifi whenever I turn the computer on. It's been no problem to me, I got used to it.

Recently, windows wireless service has been shutting off after like 10 minutes of using the laptop for internet browsing. I've been able to turn it back on using the troubleshoot feature. However, I have to do this every time I use my laptop. It's annoying and a waste of time. I'm considering buying a new laptop.

Why is windows wireless service always shutting off after I begin using the laptop? Is there a solution to this? I don't want it to keep turning off once I begin browsing.

-Thanks for your time!COULD it be as SIMPLE as a power saving option?
go to Control Panel, Power Options, and change it to High Performance.
then click Change plan settings, then Change advanced power settings, check your Wireless Adapter Settings are set to MAX Performance.
and under USB settings, Disable all suspend settings.
also go into Control Panel, Device Manager, Network Adapaters and for all your adpaters go into their Properties and on the Power Management tab, untick Allow the computer to turn this device off.
The Intel My Wifi Technology is a program to allow peer-to-peer connectivity (i.e. two laptops without a router to connect to each other to share items). It also allows you to connect to HDTV's via Intel Wireless Displays. So if you don't need this feature you can remove the program in add remove programs. There has been windows updates since 2014 which have upset how this software works and caused problems with Wifi connections. Also check you have up to date drivers for your wireless adapter.

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000005738/network-and-i-o/wireless-networking.html

I have a Windows 7 Hp Slimline. It's been acting wacky and there is little saved inside so I figured I would try a FACTORY restore.

Before I do that, is there any way I can get the PC back to the way I prefer looking at it after I reinstall? I'm guessing I've tweeked preferences a bit over the years and now it's what I'm used to seeing.

I am NOT very computer savvy.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP  when you say it is "acting wacky" and have decided to do a factory reset, for me, that means starting from scratch with the system side of it.
backup and restore your personal data, but if you do the same to your customised settings (be it toolbars, installed software, system tweaks etc) you COULD be restoring to the new build the very thing you are trying to remedy.I never had a good anti virus set up so I think my pc may be corrupted a bit. It is slow to load pages, although I really have nothing installed. (I mainly just use my computer to browse the web, online shop ping, reading articles etc) I believe this system is only 3GB but it should be enough for my needs considering.

One MAIN pain in the rump is... when I go to a new page, like if I open Google and enter Amazon.com, the page takes a while and I get a gray strip at the bottom left of my screen that says "Waiting for...." . It may say Cache, it may say Images or Leads, it may say Kellogs. So many 'waiting' addresses flash so fast, I can't even read them. and the reason for no AV software is......?
do you have the inbuilt MS Security Essentials/Defender turned on?

does it just need a *censored* good cleanup?
have you tried another browser?
is it a PC speed or a browser speed issue?  perhaps your internet speed is to blame.
go to speedof.me and do a speed test.I don't have no excuse for no AV software.

I checked and I DO have the MS security downloaded. (I tried to install and it said I already have it)

I will try another browser tonight.

I ran that speed test. Download:34.21   &  Upload: 47.41    Not sure what either means or what I can do to improve them if they are bad.low.MomNEEDShelp,
before you do anything, Do you have a full backup?

Also, consider buying a cheap replacement Hard Drive and doing a full install of the factory settings. That way you would still have the original hard drive. They may take more of your time, but it is the most conservative approach and gives you a safety net you can use again.

Relevant video (Skip the  Ad.) :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaavGMjTfgM


34Mbps download and 47Mbps upload are excellent - nothing wrong with those.
so that isn't the reason for your browser "Waiting for..." issues.

at this stage, I would certainly trail a different browser, assuming you use Chrome, try either Firefox, Opera, or (dare I say it) Edge.
and doing some maintenance tasks on the PC would help too; try CCleaner by Piriform, although their latest version 5.45 has just been pulled due to privacy issues, and v5.44 is the latest but it too has concerns.  myself I have stayed on v5.40.  older versions are available at FileHippo.
also run the inbuilt Windows cleaner.
start an elevated command prompt, type cleanmgr /sageset:1 and hit Enter.
tick all the boxes and hit OK.
now type cleanmgr /sagerun:1 and hit Enter and sit back and wait.

you can always throw in a defrag of the system and , yes, a backup of your personal files wouldn't hurt either.
or for a complete system image backup, try MACRIUM Reflect, it's free too!

Hi!

I tried install Vista on my old laptop to CF CARD connected by CF to IDE2,5" adapter.
At installation it found no one device - Itried to load Windows 7 CF driver by Hitachi, but helped not.
Can anybody suggest me any driver for installation to CF card?

Other Q is about customization:
I want to change system font like it is POSSIBLE in Windows 8. When I was using Windows 8 I changed system font to custom and I was satisfied.
Is it possible in Vista?

Thank you for each help, reply or comments.
MiroI doubt Vista will recognise that device...What drivers shipped with it ?Default on Vista DVD are not, I used drivers from diskette.

Q is - I'm now using Windows 10 - can Win10 driver help?

MiroNopeOne importaant note:

CompactFlash was PREPARED on Windows 10 with two partitions: 5GB DOS FAT32 and rest NTFS.
Installed was DOS 7.10 - without any problem, also with Windows 3.11 (of course Windows that age was on-the-half GUI for DOS) - installation and access without problems.

Vista cannot RECOGNIZE anything...
How is it possible?

MiroVista won't install to a CF Card unless the CF card identifies as a Fixed Disk, which very few do.

There is a program- something like "ATAFWCHG.COM" if I recall, which can be used to forcibly change the Mode of a CF Card. Personally I wasn't able to get it to work.Ok, it looks like HDD also in popup boot menu after POST, but really it see CF not.

Ok, this part of post we can leave as unsolved.

Customization Q was:

Is possible to change Vista default font to other by my choice?

Thank you for all.
Miro

I have an old laptop which I rarely use. Today I tried to use it to do SOMETHING and notice that I cannot DOWNLOAD and save anything to anywhere on my drive.

On Chrome, when I tried to save a file, it says, "You don't have permission to modify files in this network LOCATION. Contact the administrator per permission to make these changes."

On Firefox, right-click -> save as doesn't do anything. "Save file" also doesn't do anything.

On IE, well, I can't launch IE. It just doesn't launch.

I wonder what has happened.



Do you have the system RECOVERY software for this system to perform a repair installation or a clean install if no important data EXISTS on it? Did someone else have access to this system to create this problem?

Firstly I am sorry if I am posting this in the wrong thread cause I don't know whether the problem is with my Windows or with the Keyboard itself. Here is the description of the problem.

Sometimes while typing I hear a beep SOUND and the character that I pressed does not appear on the screen. Sometimes this is also accompanied by my keyboarding turning on the "Scroll Lock". I can tell this because the Scroll Lock LED on my keyboard automatically turns on. Sometimes after the beep the keyboard holds down the Shift Key. (not the "Caps Lock" because the Caps Lock LED doesn't turn on and when I type '1' for example the '!' appears on the screen indicating the shift key is automatically being held down even though I didn't press the Shift). This problem sometimes occur frequently and sometimes after interval of several minutes.
This BEEPING also happens during video GAMES and the key I press doesn't register.

Also another important background/context thing. When I was using Windows 7 Ultimate Edition - 32 bit I never had this problem. But then I upgraded my RAM and also installed the 64 bit version of Windows 7 Ultimate Edition to make full use of my 6GB RAM(as the 32 bit version can only use/address 4GB RAM). After I installed the 64 bit version I am facing this problem. Also my Sticky Keys are turned Off because I play video games.USB Keyboards are cheap ... I'd try a different keyboard if you don't already have one to test this issue with. You might find that the issue is the keyboard itself. Walmart for example has a USB keyboard for around $14.96 as well as some nicer gaming keyboards with backlit keys. Myself I just use a standard keyboard I don't need lit up keys because I type and don't look down when typing.  I beg to DIFFER. Never have I ever had a keyboard do that, even the most ragged BEAUT up dirty keyboard. The beeps and the lights are controlled by the software, they are not hardware dependent.  The keys of the keyboard do not directly control the lights.**

Also, the OP said "..When I was using Windows 7 Ultimate Edition - 32 bit I never had this problem. But then I upgraded my RAM .."

It is the RAM. Go back to the original RAM.

** To prove this yourself, take any old keyboard and plug into your USB port on the front. After a few seconds Windows will let t you used the Num Lock and Cpas Lock keys. The lamps are software controlled.  Geek is correct... And I shouldn't comment on stuff here with someone talking in my ear distracting me as is what happened this morning with coworker blabbing. Multitasking I fumbled this one and didnt see the part about the RAM upgrade.

I suggest Running MEMTEST86 and see which RAM stick is acting up! *Also if you have mixed brand or speed RAM it can cause issues too such as 3 x 2GB sticks or a 2GB and 4GB stick that dont play well together. Memtest86 should show the issue.

Dear friends,
I have tried LINUX UBUNDU live  CD from a pendrive.
After that, my computer is not booting,
instead a black screen with arrow mark appears and do nothing.
When I entered through my other drive, it says "Access denied".
The icon also not recognizable.
Plz help me, how to revert back to normal.
My OS is with that drive.
I was using  WINDOWS 7.
Thanks. so FAR I couldn`t get help!!!!?This thread was started in April/18. Why did you WAIT so long for a response?SADLY irah, the forum is staffed by volunteers and most likely your thread was either MISSED or simply no one with any useful advice has seen it yet.

Hi ,

I m having one requirement , i WANT to increment the  workorder ( JA3503727-A6)value in the XML file by one when i will RUN the BAT file . Could you please help me in this .


                  LAST_READING_DATE
                  07.06.2018
                  JA3503727-A6
               What generates the XML file? If its generated through PHP the increment can be done in PHP etc.we are getting this file from SAP and loading into Maximo. I want that WO not to be increased by one when i execute the batch file .Not to increment or to be incremented? Maybe your last post "not" was a typo?yes , to increment the Workorder no in xml ..its workoorder number
 So is JA3503727-A6 INCREMENTING to JA3503727-A7 or JA3503728-A6

And is A6 a constant if its incrementing to JA3503728-A6 or does the A6 change into something else.

Made a mistake while recording a macro in Excel 2003. Want to Delete it and start again, but cannot because PERSONAL.XLS, where the macro is recorded, is hidden and I don't KNOW how to find that worksheet so that I can Unhide it, nor how to Unhide it even if I could find it.  See attached snip of message windows.  Any help greatly appreciated. Instructions I find online to delete a macro are for more recent versions of Excel, or for deleting macros that are particular to the current workbook, not for all workbooks.I found an old solution to this problem online and it works.  The Topic is Solved.  Anyone interested can read the reply from Gord Dibben at :
https://www.excelforum.com/excel-general/572299-how-do-i-delete-a-macro-in-excel-2003-button-is-greyed-out.html
Thanks, WFDHello this may help,

If you happen to have MacOS:
Open Terminal found in Finder > Applications > Utilities
In Terminal, paste the following: defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles YES
Press return
Hold the ‘Option/alt’ key, then right click on the Finder icon in the DOCK and click Relaunch.
Relaunch Finder by right clicking the Finder Icon WHILST holding the ‘Option/alt’ key

This will show all hidden files. To hide them again, follow the same steps but REPLACE the Terminal command with:
defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles NO

If you happen to have Windows, then:
In the search box on the taskbar, type folder, and then select Show hidden files and folders In the View tab from the search results.
Under Advanced settings, select Show hidden files, folders, and drives, and then select OK.

So, when I updated my driver, so I can play a specific game, it all worked fine. After a while my screen started to occasioanlly go blank, I would just see black screen for about 3 seconds, and then I would be able to see my desktop. My game always crashes and it just says "not responding" so I have to quit game, and in the bottom right corner I get the message "Display adapter stopped responding and has recovered". After that I can re-launch my game and play it until next crash. This is really annoying and I have been searching over the internet , I found many many solutions but none of them worked. So I ask EVERYONE who can help to reply on this post. (my display adapter is Radeon x1300/x1550 Series)Where is the driver from ? ?...it should only come from the card manuf. site.I downloaded it by downloading ATI Catalyst Manager from the official site. It will be either a software issue (driver), or a hardware issue (failing card or overheating), which can also occur with any form of overclocking.I have a Radeon X1300 256MB PCI Express Video Card and it has "Passive Cooling". I had similar issues when it ran HOT playing World of Warcraft many YEARS ago!

If your video card is like mine with the "passive cooling" = There is no GPU FAN. If you run the computer with the cover open and a fan blowing cool air into the case you might be able to get the video card to not crash out your game.

I haven't used this video card in years as for its poor performance to todays standards. It was given to me for free about 8 years ago from a friend who upgraded to a better video card. I ran it for a few months until it was lagging and I needed higher frame rates as well as I had to add a 80mm fan blowing air across it to keep it from CRASHING in the middle of games as for it should never have been made with just passive cooling, it really needs a GPU fan to cool it for games. I just about burned my finger touching the heatsink to see how HOT it was when gaming. I have since invested in a IR Gun to measure temps without burning fingers.  It has its own fan. So I don't think it's overheating problem. Any other ideas?? Yes ...what was stated above...wrong drivers...
ATI is famous for this,,,newer drivers ain't better drivers.

Revert to the original ones from the CD that shipped with the card.Can I revert them in any other way because I lost my CD.. I didn't have this problem for like 8-9 years.
Quote from: DiamondDMD on June 29, 2018, 03:03:43 PM

It has its own fan. So I don't think it's overheating problem. Any other ideas??

The topic title is fro this:noot thing with
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-3386873/windows-dual-boot-issue-chkdsk.html
Quote

The problem i have is that every time i boot Windows the CHKDSK utility keeps running on my D drive (the SSD with Windows 10) - so far i've cancelled this every time however i suspect it will catch me out sooner or later and i'll be back into the crash loop situation again. Is there any way i can RESOLVE this as i do not want to give up either version of Windows as i have games that only run on WIN 10 and other games that run better on Win 7 (plus i like the interface of Win 7).

UNFORTUNATELY windows 10 has the bad idea to turn on fast startup by default and this corrupts external drives attached when you reboot as well as other operating systems in a dual boot system.

You need to boot into windows 10 and turn fast startup off.
Click start, Control Panel, Power Options    ...

It can only be implemented with Pro, Enterprise or Education versions of Win 10. If you have Home your out of luck.

You should have the OS's installed to seperate HDD's as suggested months ago...

In this article we're going to discuss how to disable Fast Startup. Why? In many systems it is known to cause issues with shutting down, restarting, etc. For example, on my system after I would shut down my system, it wouldn't fully shut down and would remain in a hibernation state instead. After I went ahead and disabled Fast Startup, I was able to successfully shut down.

Hello  ,

This is PROBABLY a dumb question but i recently purchase a used computer ( Dell Optiplex 990) for my son for a starter computer for games specifically fortnite but we cannot install it without a 64 bit and i am curious what i need to get to make it compatible ?

Thanks in advance!Looking up that system, it should have been sold with a 64-bit OS of Windows according to google. If you have a 32-bit install of Windows, then you will need to install the 64-bt version of Windows. There is no 64bit emulation for 32-bit OS to support 64-bit programs.

What OS and version does the Key say that should be on the computer on a label. *Please dont share the key here as for someone can steal it if shared. Just the version info.Thanks for replying i will check that when i get home  Quote from: DaveLembke on July 05, 2018, 10:44:12 AM

Looking up that system, it should have been sold with a 64-bit OS of Windows according to google. If you have a 32-bit install of Windows, then you will need to install the 64-bt version of Windows. There is no 64bit emulation for 32-bit OS to support 64-bit programs.

What OS and version does the Key say that should be on the computer on a label. *Please dont share the key here as for someone can steal it if shared. Just the version info.

In browser under downloads you should see it. You then will need to use a burner utility to burn it to a DVD or use a utility that will erase a 8GB or larger USB stick and make the USB stick bootable.

This will install Windows 10 clean to computer. You will want to backup any important data that you might have on this computer first before installing Windows 10.

After installing Windows 10, unless you have a Windows 10 key or can get Microsoft to grant you an activation, it will be an install that will keep telling you in the lower right corner that this version of Windows is not activated and click to activate. When clicking to activate you need a key for Windows 10 that Microsoft will approve for Windows 10 use. I don't believe a Windows 7 key can be used anymore for Windows 10 and so after this you will likely have to BUY A KEY for Windows 10 from Microsoft to activate it. However if Microsoft will grant you an activation by chatting with their support then you can get one free. If they say sorry we cant do that though, then your looking at the cost of a Windows 10 key which last I checked was $99.99 (USD) for Windows 10 64-bit Home Edition.

Cheaper route would be to contact Dell and get the System Recovery Media for that computer which would be around $35 + shipping (USD) for whatever OS version the system was sold with, which should be a 64-bit OS according to Google searching that model which came with 4GB RAM. A System with 4GB RAM should have been sold with 64-bit OS to make full use of the RAM as for 32-bit OS can only use 3GB of 4GB. If System was sold with lesser than 4GB RAM then its more likely that its a 32-bit OS system.

Hi,I'm Gary and I always wanted to ask a simple but to me a very interesting question and that is...Is there a way for Windows to use even less RAM or to optimise (optimize I dunno how you spell it) it even further except disabling the features,is there maybe an option or...command for that.

It's like I'm experiencing any high RAM usage but I was just asking since I did saw a guy screenshot of someone's pc in a comment showing of his RAM usage on Windows 8 and It was about 350-450mb of RAM in it so...is there any way to lower the RAM usage except disabling too many Windows features.

Thats just my curiousity but THANKS anyways.I guess my 1st question would be why do you need to lower RAM usage ? ?Attempting to maximize the amount of Free/unused Memory no longer makes sense because Modern Operating Systems make use of unused memory to improve performance in other areas by utilizing it as a cache.

Despite this there is still this obsession with maximizing how much of your memory sits idle and useless. "Gamers" in particular are often liable to buy gobs of RAM and then spend hours trying to use as little of it as possible. It's like buying a King size bed and then making deliberate efforts to never use more than the area of a twin, just so you can look at the bare parts of it and go "Look how much free bed I have, my sleeping experience is TRULY optimized!"Love this analogy!   

Quote

"Gamers" in particular are often liable to buy gobs of RAM and then spend hours trying to use as little of it as possible. It's like buying a King size bed and then making deliberate efforts to never use more than the area of a twin, just so you can look at the bare parts of it and go "Look how much free bed I have, my sleeping experience is truly optimized!"

I recently downgraded from windows 10 to windows 7 because my laptop had become very slow. Now I have INSTALLED skype on my laptop. But WHENEVER I try to log in to skype, the windows crashes and takes me to the BSOD(image attached). Furthermore, I could also not uninstall it. So, I went to the SAFE mode and uninstalled it over there.

Next I tried video and audio calling in the facebook messenger but again, the windows crashed again.

I really need a video calling software on my laptop. Please help!!Did you DLoad and install the Win 7 drivers from the laptop manuf site ? ?

Hi

I installed on my notebook WINDOWS Vista SP2 x86 and Office 2007.
I tried to configure Gmail account in Outlook and encrypted reports error, then tried unencrypted and agin security errors.
I used legacy Opera 36 (last supported for Vista) portable, but when I enter e.g. google.com it reports certificate error, CONNECTING to Gmail acount by browser is impossible, impossible is also sync Opera by account - certificate problem.
Even I tried to use Gmail checker gadget and again - security problem.

What needs fix?

Thank you for help.
MiroWho is watching you ? ?...just curious.Really understand not - any spyware?

From where? Installed from DVDs...

Really where is problem?

MiroVista hasn't received updates in some time and it's ROOT certificates are out of date. ASSUMING the time is correct, You might try running Windows Update as there were some root certificate updates but I DOUBT that brings it completely up to date.Sadly after full update again reports problems, but at least IE allows to select protection to middle and it allows display pages wihout confirmation "own risk" - only reports problem with lighting address bar...

Is possible to fix it by other way?

Miro

Hi,

I recently got a used/fairly NEW hard drive. The internet for my previous computer/hardrive was already set up using my modem and router. When I connect to the internet using this new hardrive, I see it's already connected to the internet using a default network. I set it to home and turned off network sharing activity. However I do not see any wireless wifi connections that I own, nor do I see the orginal wifi network I had before this new hard drive. Is it safe then to use this default network that connects to the internet, is it password protected or is it a network that anyone can connect to? Thanks in advance.Confused here...does it have an OS installed on it ? ?...if so im suprised it runs bein swapped from another PC...

At any rate if Yes you need to go to Control Panel/Network,,,delete the existing network config then setup your connection fresh...I see. yes the OS is installed windows 7. Do you still recommend I delete the network? And if so, what info do I need to provide to create a new network? e.g. from router, etc. or do I need some sort of user/password I can get from my ISP? or any other info? Oh I reread and you SAID if yes. In that case, if I need any ADDITIONAL info to establish and create a new network can my ISP give me that?Yes.thank you.Anytime...Welcome Aboard.

I have an old LAPTOP with an unauthorized version of Windows 7 installed. I want to install an authorized version instead. Any suggestions on where to get an authorized version with the key?https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=windows+7Thanks.Also just before you JUMP the gun if you get a legit version you can run a Repair install which will SAVE all your existing DATA and apps...painless...
See Here...

When I'm playing Rust for like 2 HOURS or something, Rust crashes and it says something like The memory could not be read, I have no idea why this is happening

I tried:
Verifiying game files in steam
updating drivers
doing some research in youtube and nothing

I don't know what happened but a solution would be much appreciated, Have a good dayAppears to be a game bug possibly.

https://steamcommunity.com/discussions/forum/1/1500126447393545710/

Have you ruled out your RAM and Hard Drive as potential memory problem areas with Memtest86 run to test system RAM and CrystalDiskInfo used to check Hard Drive Health? Additionally if you have any overclocking going on to go back to normal clocking in case that is the CAUSE with a timing that is acting up if too fast.

If your wondering why a hard drive could be cause, its because hard drives are used for Virtual Memory, so the game installation could be fine, but how memory is written and read from Hard Drive or SSD back to RAM can cause problems if the drive health isnt quite RIGHT. Quote from: DaveLembke on August 22, 2018, 08:05:36 AM

Appears to be a game bug possibly.

https://steamcommunity.com/discussions/forum/1/1500126447393545710/

Have you ruled out your RAM and Hard Drive as potential memory problem areas with Memtest86 run to test system RAM and CrystalDiskInfo used to check Hard Drive Health? Additionally if you have any overclocking going on to go back to normal clocking in case that is the cause with a timing that is acting up if too fast.

If your wondering why a hard drive could be cause, its because hard drives are used for Virtual Memory, so the game installation could be fine, but how memory is written and read from Hard Drive or SSD back to RAM can cause problems if the drive health isnt quite right.

I accidentally installed too many virus to uninstall manually, and antivirus don't work (I've ran hitmanpro, avast, malwarebytes after running rkill - the most that got picked up was a couple chrome cookies). Now I regret it and I'm trying to factory RESET my PC, but have had no success, I have no factory image, no factory reset option, and I have lost the installation disc.

Details:
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium
Model: Dell Inspiron N5030

I have further details, just ask.

Regards
-RyeleighDo you have another PC? to download the ISO?
 Maybe you can go to the house  of a friend and do it.

An number of sties claim yu can download Windows 7 ISO . But you really should only get it from MICROSOFT for free. Here is the catch. Yu have to have a valid product key.

This link has important information about how to get the Windows 7 ISO.
https://www.lifewire.com/where-to-download-windows-7-2626268

If your computer came with Windows 7 from the ORIGINAL MAKER, yu shod contact  them for a legal copy of Windows 7. Expect to pay a fee.



That Dell has a factory restore partition...Instructions for runnin it are at the Dell site...

I have v6.1.7601 Service Pack 1 Build 7601. I bought this CD in 2012. I just re-installed it on a new hard drive and got all Windows updates available through 'Windows Update'. I read on Wikipedia that there is a 'Convenience rollup' not available through 'Windows Update'.
-------------
 "Convenience rollup

In May 2016, Microsoft released a "Convenience rollup update for Windows 7 SP1 and Windows Server 2008 R2 SP1", which CONTAINS all patches released between the release of SP1 and April 2016. The rollup is not available via Windows Update, and must be downloaded manually. This package can also be integrated into a Windows 7 installation image.[133]

Since October 2016, all SECURITY and reliability updates are cumulative. Downloading and installing updates that address INDIVIDUAL problems is no longer possible, but the number of updates that must be downloaded to fully update the OS is significantly reduced."
-------------------
I have installed all available updates through Windows Update which now SAYS 'no more updates available'.  Am I good to go or do I NEED to download/install this 'Convinience Rollup'?The Convenience Rollup installs every update for Windows 7 released between February 2011 and the 16th of May, 2016. If you have fully updated Windows 7 SP1 since the latter date, you do not need the rollup.
Cool. Thanks ST!

I have a problem to boot with Windows 7 64 bits (Laptop of my cousin)
The error message is like that  :

CODE: [Select]File : \windows\system32\winload.exe
Status : 0xc00000e9
Please what can i do to SOLVE this problem ?
Thank you !USUALLY failing hard drive. Run HDD diagnostic.
Quote from: Salmon Trout on December 29, 2018, 06:50:39 AM

Usually failing hard drive. Run HDD diagnostic.

how can i execute 0xc000000e repair tool when i can not get windows 7 up.not even in SAFE mode or a command prompt.  it always seems to come back to this error


Getting the error windows failed to start a recent Hardware or software change might be the cause to fix this problem number 1 INSERT your Windows installation disc and restart your computer choose your language settings, and then click next three click repair your computer if you do not status colon 0 XC 0 0 0 0 0 0 e info the boot selection failed because a required device is inaccessible

Dell Latitude e6400 series BIOS reversion revision AA-12
Quote

required device is inaccessible

Hi everyone,

I am building a new system specs below:

CPU: Pentium G5400
Motherboard: Asrock H310M-HDV/M.2
8 GB RAM
No Graphics Card
240 GB Inland SSD

I've successfully downloaded Windows 7 but my USB Mouse and Thumb sticks are not working. They do however work in bios (both 2.0 and 3.0). I have gone to the device manager and tried updating the drivers. Most of the drivers "worked" but it seems like the Serial USB Controller one doesn't want to get updated. Windows update also is having trouble supposedly with the chip set according to a pop-up I got upon opening the computer.

I haven't slept all night TRYING to fix it. I'm at my wit's end. If anyone could please point me in the right direction I'd be extremely grateful.



You need to re-install ALL the drivers from the CD that shipped with the MBoard...I did their full driver install off the cd now...but it only took my internet driver away. It also downgraded a lot of the drivers. Currently I'm trying to fix what the cd broke.Hi

Your motherboard DOES NOT support Windows 7. You need to load windows 10 64bit. I READ a post on a Tom's HARDWARE forum in regards to a A320m Mobo that just might apply to your problem with the A310m. It seems you have to slipstream the drivers for your USB ports into the installation media for Win 7. SEE the following:
http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-3471142/mobo-run-win7.html
Hope this  helpsNice catch...hope it works...

Hi, i'm hoping to get some advise to fix computer issue.
I've inherited a Win 7 laptop (DELL) with 4gb RAM and i7 processor. The windows seems like its going to load but then i get ERROR (not sure if that's referred as BSOD). Attached screenshot 1 shows the error when trying to boot. I also tried to do a system restore to different restore points but thats also unsuccessful.
I don't have software CD/dvd to do a repair. Please SEE the attachments and advise if i there is a fix? Appreciate your help. Thanks.Travel to the Dell site for info on doing a Factory Restore...

Note: You will lose all data running this repair.Hi raymansz

You get that error when the hard drive access mode changes, this can happen if the cmos battery is flat and you let the main battery go completely flat.

By default most Dells set the hard drive access mode to RAID, why i don't know. Anyway try setting to achi or ide and check the date and time are set correctly in the Bios.

If it still doesn't boot then there is Patio's SUGGESTION of a repair install.


I have changed the hard drive access mode to AHCI but unfortunately that didn’t help. Also, tried restoring from several restore points but none of them work. I looked up at the Dell site & found page to download OS recovery tool, need to get a usb & will let you know if that worked.

Thanks for your replies.
Thanks for all your input.
Creating a recovery DISK and repairing the system worked. Cheers!Good News indeed...


Thanx for lettin us know.Thanks Patio! Your advise worked 😀We all helped...

I have a Windows 7 Toshiba LAPTOP computer that I'd been having some display driver problems with.  I ran the SFC/SCANNOW command and was informed that there are files that are corrupt but these corrupted files could not be fixed.  I have no idea what the CBS.log information means exactly, or what to do next to clean up my computer.

Can someone help?  I was going to attached the log but it is super long and your SYSTEM would not allow me to do it.  Perhaps there is another way?

Thank you,  SuzanSuzanG,
Check you personal message inbox.
I am sending you a personal message.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/v40vot031jlvlt3/CBS.log?dl=0

Let me know if this works for you.  I appreciate your help.SuzanG,
Now we can see the log  file. It is huge. They were a large number of failures to install a package.  I do not have the knowledge of what that means.

Maybe somebody else can read it and tell YU what went wrong.

Sperry I can not tell yu what to do next.
Quote

Could not reproject corrupted file [ml:520{260},l:56{28}]"\??\C:\Windows\System32\oobe"\[l:24{12}]"W32UIRes.dll"; source file in store is also corrupted

Some keys are not working such as backspace, the letter d, and RETURN. I can copy  and paste them  or "cut" them to remove them but there is no response when I type them on the keys. Thanks Laptop ? ?

If not try another KEYBOARD...
If wireless replace the batteries and re-boot.Thanks. It is an ASUS Laptop about 7 years old. Are you saying it is likely a hardware PROBLEM with the Laptop keyboard. If so, likely to be repairable for REASONABLE cost or time to BUY a new laptop?

Awhile ago - and I don't know all the details - my mom did something to her laptop, and her taskbar along with all of her desktop icons just disappeared, while the only window that's ever up is her Windows EXPLORER? She tells me she's already tried a system restore and it doesn't work.A System Restore should have corrected this; but if you were using a restore point from the past that still had this issue affecting it then the restore point wouldn't help you.

Do you have the System Recovery Media on DVD or USB Stick to be able to perform a clean install?

Does this system have any important data on it that you dont want to lose?

Have her close Explorer...then rite clik on any empty PORTION of the desktop...and select personalise and se;ect Taskbar settings...
Or see here...SYMPTOM
You cannot see the taskbar (which contains the "Start" button) anywhere on your desktop.
CAUSES
The taskbar may be hiding at the bottom of the screen after being accidentally resized.

If the presentation display was changed, the taskbar may have moved off of the visible screen (Windows 7 and Vista only).

The taskbar may be set to "Auto-hide" (Windows XP with Service Pack 2 only).

The 'explorer.exe' process may have crashed.
SOLUTIONS
Put the mouse pointer on the bottom border of your screen.

If the pointer turns into a double-arrow (double Arrow Pointing up and down), click and drag upwards.
If your taskbar isn't hiding at the bottom of the screen, TRY moving the mouse to the right, LEFT, and top edges, looking for the double-arrow.

Press and hold the Windows logo key on your keyword, then tap the P key to bring up the presentation display mode options.

Make sure "Computer Only" is selected.
Use the arrow keys to toggle between options and Enter to select the correct display mode.

Press the Windows key on the keyboard to bring up the Start Menu

Right-Click on the taskbar and select Properties.
Toggle the 'Auto-Hide the taskbar' checkbox and click Apply.
If it is now checked, move the cursor to the bottom, right, left, or top of the screen and the taskbar should re-appear.
Repeat step three to return to your original setting.

Open the Task Manager using either Ctrl+Alt+Del or Ctrl+Shift+Esc.

If explorer.exe is already running, select it and choose END Task before continuing on.
Click the File menu and select New Task.
In the dialog box, type 'explorer.exe' to restart the process.


Hope it will help to your query.If you're going to copy and paste from another site, you must include the link to the other site and give them credit.

running windows 7
64 bit
sp1

when i go to control panel and select the windows update icon i get the dreaded hanging spinning wheel which wont stop.
a restart will ALLOW access back into the update feature 50% of the time so that work around is hit or miss.
even if i can get into update module update history is always blank.
i do not know when the last update was done. in reality how important is updating?
i would hate to cause problems as my computer is otherwise doing fine.

if i can eventually update is there a specific way to select only vital updates without having to wait for all the unnecessary ones to install?
of course my main concerns are firewall security.

i see this is a common ISSUE as there is a lot of information on this topic.
unfortunately it all seems surrounded by a grey area as to what works or not.

thanksTo answer your questions. You can restart the windows update SERVICES, by going to the start button, click on run, type in services.msc, go to windows update in the list and then click on restart in the upper left hand corner.

In terms of selecting updates, it used to be that you COULD pick as many or as few as you wanted, but then Microsoft CHANGED that by creating monthly updates, which is all updates rolled into one file for the month.

You should change the windows update to manual and do a manual scan for updates.

Basically, at some point I lost the ability to print from the computer I have connected directly to the router.  The rest of the COMPUTERS in my network print just fine wirelessly.  I'm not sure what happened there but all of the normal MS stuff to correct the problem hasn't worked.  Finally I used a network repair tool from Brother (printer manufacturer) which looked for the printer via IP address and ONLY looked at addresses starting with 192.  When I checked the IP address of the printer it started with 172 and so did my laptop and I presume every other "printer friendly" device in the house.  I don't KNOW how those all got on 172, I THOUGHT 192 was sort of a default, but from what I've researched this does seem to be a problem.
 
The questions are:  Can I change the IP address of my computer to 172 to join the rest of them?  Should I?  If not, should I change the addresses of all of the other devices to start with 192?  What are the potential PROBLEMS with any/all of this?  What is the difference between them?  Am i on the wrong track?  What is the average flight speed of a swallow?  Please render answers and opinions as the site rules ALLOW.  Thank you. I would uninstall the printer in device manager...then remove the printer software in ADD/Remove,,,then power down...disconnect the USB cord...re-install the printer software...it'll tell you when to plugin the printer...after all this you should be good to go.

Hello, everyone

This happens frequent 4 times or 5 times a week

I use my desktop WINDOWS 7 64 bit (OS 3 years old) mostly for browsing, and I use Firefox mainly for browsing what happens Firefox crashes and then a message pops up as below :

https://imgur.com/a/bc1YI0Y

And then blue screen of death with error:  IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL.

https://imgur.com/a/MkusGGI

Sometime even not browsing if I open a pdf document also that crashes the system and the same blue screen of death with error  IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL pops up

Any TROUBLESHOOT should I do to fix the issue ?

Thanks
DOWNLOAD BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next replyThanks Allan will do thatDump File         : 040719-42510-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 07/04/2019 7:59:56 PM
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : fffff880`90a09c70
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 4       : fffff880`0225711d
Caused By Driver  : rasl2tp.sys
Caused By Address : rasl2tp.sys+8ba42c70
File Description  : RAS L2TP mini-port/call-manager driver
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.17514 (win7sp1_rtm.101119-1850)
PROCESSOR         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+93ba0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\040719-42510-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 355,092
Dump File Time    : 07/04/2019 8:01:09 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 040719-30810-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 07/04/2019 7:47:23 PM
Bug Check String  : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1       : fffffa7f`ffffffe0
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 4       : fffff800`03446a04
Caused By Driver  : NisDrvWFP.sys
Caused By Address : NisDrvWFP.sys+f7429fe0
File Description  : Microsoft Network Realtime Inspection Driver
Product Name      : Microsoft Malware Protection
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 4.10.0202.0
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+93ba0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\040719-30810-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 355,412
Dump File Time    : 07/04/2019 7:48:29 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 040719-26364-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 07/04/2019 3:29:56 PM
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : fffff880`3b532ee0
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 4       : fffff880`049225c0
Caused By Driver  : igdkmd64.sys
Caused By Address : igdkmd64.sys+34490ee0
File Description  : Intel Graphics Kernel Mode Driver
Product Name      : Intel HD Graphics Drivers for Windows(R)
Company           : Intel Corporation
File Version      : 21.20.16.4505
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+93ba0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\040719-26364-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 355,092
Dump File Time    : 07/04/2019 3:31:23 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 040719-40950-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 07/04/2019 2:07:54 PM
Bug Check String  : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1       : 00000000`0000004c
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 4       : fffff800`03498f49
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+93ba0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.24388 (win7sp1_ldr_escrow.190311-1905)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+93ba0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\040719-40950-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 8
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 355,092
Dump File Time    : 07/04/2019 2:09:54 PM
==================================================

What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)? If you have not made any major changes, then I suggest you run diagnostics on your ram & hd as a starting point. Also please run a full system scan with your av just to rule out malware.

To check the ram, download MEMTEST (http://memtest.org/). Burn it to a cd using a dedicated .iso burning utility (http://www.petri.co.il/how_to_write_iso_files_to_cd.htm), make sure the cd drive is at the top of the boot order in bios, then boot to the newly created cd and run the utility.

Also, please open device manager. Are there any yellow or red symbols?Thanks will do that and see how it goesNot sure why but I read on the internet that Malwarebytes can possibly cause BSOD.  I completely deleted Malwarebytes from my computer and no more BSOD.  Gotta love technology sometimes LOL.That's total Bunk...don't believe everything you read...I agree with you.  But it worked for me; I don't understand why.  That's why I posted like I did.Regardless it is irresponsible to post bunk about a well known product that is untrue...just sayin.

Hey guys,

I am currently running a Windows 7 system.

Shortly after booting (perhaps 3-5 minutes in), my computer will flicker to Windows Basic, and then show me the blue screen of death. It says STOP: 0x000000F4 (0x0000000000000003, 0xFFFFFA800A621B10, 0xFFFFFA800A621DF0, 0xFFFFF800037DEE40). I let it run for about 2 minutes but the blue screen doesn't go away, so I push and hold the power button to restart. Upon restarting, I INSTANTLY get put into UEFI and no matter how I try to exit, I get instantly sent back into UEFI. I can only manage to boot into Windows by cutting power abruptly (unplugging) and then trying to power up. (Works 1 time PER 10 tries) But after I successfully boot into Windows, I can use the computer normally. The problem only occurs after I shutdown.

There are no dump files because the BSOD doesn't go away after 5 minutes and hence I have to power down in order to restart the computer.

Things I have tried to do to troubleshoot:
1. Booting into Ubuntu from USB stick and it works fine, I could do work for an hour without any crashes
2. CrystalDiskinfo shows healthy for both my SSD (my boot drive) and HDD (purely for storage)
3. Windows Memory Diagnostic didn't FIND any errors
4. Scannow and Chkdsk didn't find any errors on either drive
5. I have also reseated my SATA cables for both drives and my RAM. I even tried swapping SATA ports for my boot drive.
6. Windows Reliability Monitor flags "Windows was not properly shut down".

Things I have INSTALLED lately:
Trend Micro Internet Security

Somehow if the "Welcome" message from Trend Micro doesn't pop up, I know a crash is imminent. I did a full uninstall and fresh re-install with tools from their CUSTOMER service rep, but the problem still persists.

Can anyone give me some advice for this? I will really appreciate any sort of help I can get for this.

Computer specs (desktop built in 2014):
Core i5-4570
Asrock H87M Pro4
Kingston 8GB RAM
Crucial 120GB SSD
Toshiba 2TB HDD
MSI R9 270X
Seasonic 620W PSU

Windows 7 64-bit OEM

 

Thanks!I didn't see a lot of suggestions for your problem on google, but is what you can do.

1) Attach your boot drive, but not your storage drive. See if your computer blue screens with only your boot drive attached.

2) Check bios info for your drives. Information should be correct. If not, then you have a problem.

3) You could also take the cmos battery out and see if your computer blue screens or not. Date and time won't be saved along with any changes to bios, but your computer might not blue screen..

It's higher than 38%...MS won't admit it

I'm putting some of my CDs on a flash drive to transfer to my Android phone. If the music is more than one CD for any particular ARTIST, it transfers as 1-song titleA and 1-song titleB and so on with the 1 being CD1. Second
CD as 2-song titleA, etc. I have about 1000 songs on different CDs being transferred.

I want only the title to show. Is there a way to delete the 1- etc. portion of all the songs at one time so only the title is shown? If I have to do each song individually, it will take the rest of my life. LOL

Almost FORGOT, using Windows 7 Ultimate.Transferring ripped CD's to a flash drive is not a good way to go. Ripped cd's are transferred as wma files which are much larger than MP3's. You should convert all wma's to MP3's then transfer them to the flash drive. I realize that it will take a lot long to do but it will be worth it.And if you wanna manage your libraries/titles etc this is the app to use.

Here Ya Go...Thanks.  I DOWNLOADED and installed the program but how do I modify the songs titles?Preferably all at one time.Have you read the Help file yet ? ?Yes I did.  That's the first place I went to.  However, I didn't see what I need about multi file changes.  I was hoping that you knew something.

Pardon me.
This has been hasted around over and over again.
But I forget things, Especially things that are not well-defined.

My old Dell bite the dust. That was some months AGO.   It had a  OEM Windows 7 pro 64 bit. I still have the DVD and product key.

I got another Dell computer and it runs Windows 10 32 bit. I also put Windows XP on it. Also I put Ubuntu on it. MBR.

I forgot about the Windows 7 DVD that goes with the old failed Dell.

Now I just got  another computer a week ago, a Gateway, with Windows 10. I thought it would be nice to have Windows 7 again, so after a lot of work I made it dual BOOT Windows 7 and Windows 10. GPT.

No I am not tying to cheat anybody. My old OEM machine is stone dead. I should know better,  but I forgot. It is asking me to activate Windows 7. So I put in my old product key and it says that it is not right.

A search on the Internet gives conflicting answers. One claims to be from Microsoft and it says that I can transfer the OEM license to a replacement motherboard. But apparently that is not true or else there is some odd way of doing it.

This is not a critical issue. I don't need Windows 7. Actually, I do have another LEGAL copy I might try, but it would be a hassle to do the install all over again. It would be a lot easier, I think, if there was some way I can legalize the install I just made. I am sure I can not use the other product key, they are different versions of Windows 7.

Can I call Microsoft support and beg them for an EXCEPTION?

Here is what I have legally.
Two DVDs with Windows 7 and RESPECTIVE product keys.
Two computers, each has legal Windows 10.

I would like to have  at least one PC  boot Windows 7 whenever I like.
No way am I trying to sell either of these computers.

Any thoughts?
It sounds to me that you can, but read this first.
https://www.howtogeek.com/261053/when-can-you-move-a-windows-license-to-a-new-pc/

You may have to call microsoft and explain what happened. The worst case scenerio is that you'd have to use a brand new windows 7 key.Thank you. I t has been over a year and I did find legal way to license a replacement.
The link yu provide is very good. There are a umber of legal ways to resolve the problem. The one rule is that yu never can have one license working on two good PCs at the same time. But you do have to call Microsoft on the phone and get help from a representative.

I can no longer scan to a folder or access shared folders on the network of a Windows 7 PC. Apparently, SMB1 is disabled but when I went to "Turn Windows features on or off" and looked for the SMB 1.0 CIFS Client, it wasn't LISTED. I also CHECKED the Registry (Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\LanmanServer\Parameters) and SMB1 was enabled. Is there somewhere else that it can be re-enabled? I also checked for the update KB4480970 released on Jan 8, 2019, which caused LOSS to shared folders on Windows 7 PC's and it wasn't installed either.

Any help would be MUCH appreciated.