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My Windows 7 desktop computer clock keeps changing to an incorrect time FREQUENTLY.  Can anyone advise how to correct the problem?First THING you WANT to try is replace the cmos BATTERY.

MS said: After January 14, 2020, Microsoft will no longer provide security updates or support for PCs with Windows 7. Upgrade to Windows 10 now to keep your ...

Really?

Go ahead, Google it.
Why Windows 7 Will Not Drop Dead.

Just one of many:
https://www.computerworld.com/article/3304309/microsoft-plans-to-sell-post-2020-support-for-windows-7.html

Or Linux?
https://linux.slashdot.org/story/19/04/07/2111218/why-arent-people-abandoning-windows-for-linux

Here is a company that will sell your their plan:
https://www.praim.com/en/windows-7-end-of-life-3/

There are third-party firms that will provide security for windows 7 in the coming years.
Just think about it. 

OK, just one more link:
https://windowsreport.com/use-windows-7-forever/
Quote

However, you can still continue enjoying the Windows 7 OS by using certain tips and tricks.
And in this guide,  we are GOING to be showing you what you can do to use Windows 7 forever and never install Windows 10.
Windows 7 is somewhat the preferred OS choice of most computer users across the globe.
It is durable enough to run low-end OPERATIONS, while also optimized to execute high-end functions, with near-perfection.
Its flexibility makes it ideal for all classes of computers, and many people see it as the best Windows version, with little regard for the newer versions (Win 8/8.1/10).

Since some enterprise customers will find it difficult to move all their PCs to Windows 10 before January 14, 2020, To support such customers, Microsoft last year announced that it will offer paid Windows 7 Extended Security Updates (ESU) through January 2023.
Microsoft will make Windows 7 ESUs available to all Windows 7 Professional and Windows 7 Enterprise customers in Volume Licensing, with a discount to customers with Windows software assurance, Windows 10 Enterprise or Windows 10 Education subscriptions.

I do not intend to ever let my windows 7 computer die!

Whenever I turn on the laptop, it starts up without a problem but freezes after that. I wait for quite a while and then a window opens up asking for a password for Kaspersky which I close as I did not opt for a PW. Then I get a notification saying that my MALWAREBYTES Real Time PROTECTION has been turned off.

Is there a conflict the two? Both have been paid for.

Windows 7ULTIMATE
Service pack 1
DELL
PROCESSOR  i7  2630 QM
32 Bit

Thanks in advance
my laptop will not go to any WEB page. I am sending this email via my mobile. I try to work with Internet Explorer and FIREFOX. Both fail to go to any site.Try using Ping command to test your internet CONNECTION.  See https://www.verizon.com/support/residential/internet/fiosinternet/networking/troubleshooting/questionsone/122595.htm for a reference.

Please show Me how to safely remove a USB Pen Drive

Thank YouClick on the icons in the lower right hand CORNER and select Safely remove hardware. It's a small icon showing a green ARROW and a USB picture. On other versions of OS it will appear differently.The icon SuperDave REFERS to looks like this on Windows 7:

After you click on that icon, there are times when you will NOT get the message saying it is now safe to remove the USB device.  In that CASE, close any programs that were using the device and then wait 15 or 20 seconds to make sure all delayed writes to the USB device have been completed.  At that point, you should be Ok to unplug regardless.

I am getting a profusion of adverts 30 or more when I open in the morning,  I have tried all sorts to no avail, even downloaded add guard, It claims to have blocked hundreds, yet I am still getting them, I use google chrome, in the settings it is supposed to block adds, but it does not, I update and run microsoft essentials regularly,  what is the solution? An answer would be greatly appreciated.I'd download and install and run a full scan of Malwarebytes to see if you have MALWARE going on as the trigger for this issue.

Free Edition Here: https://www.malwarebytes.com/mwb-download/thankyou/

14-Day Trial of Premium can be used and when TIME is up you can switch it to free as long as its a HOME computer and not a business computer according to the licensing they have.I have downloaded several anti malware programs an run scans , it just does not WORK,  Asking for info from sites brings no response that helps,   I am at a loss as to what to do next surely someone has had this problem, I thought I had got it beat by downloading Google Beta, but no , those adds keep coming. Not sure what I deleted in the settings bu thank the lord the problems gone at the cost of having to log in again on all the sites i use, thanks for your help..Odd that you had SOMETHING that was able to hide from the scan(s). Glad your issue is fixed.

What will happen after January 14, will I still be able to use Win 7 after that date. I don't want to upgrade to Win 10 as I believe it has privacy issues which I don't like.

One thing I forgot to mention regarding privacy issues, I never do any on line banking or financial transactions so I'm not bothered in that respect. Thank you for that information. 

From what little I've read about this on the Internet, it appears that there is not much choice for anybody other than to switch over to Windows 10. So far, I have not seen anybody that is offering to support Windows 7 after Microsoft is going to DROP support for it. I guess it has to be that way because it is a copyrighted product and there is no provision for other people to take it on Windows 7 support.

Now I would imagine that Microsoft would not consider selling Windows 7 to anybody for any about of money.  No way.

Here is a link from Consumer Reports. Like almost everybody, they also are SAYING you have to make the switch if you want to be safe.
https://www.consumerreports.org/computers/microsoft-ends-windows-7-support/

Maybe we should all goto Apple?  Thank you Geek-9pm.

I had a look at the article you referred me to and was assured that I can still use Windows 7.  I've tried Windows 10 and apart from the privacy issues I've already mentioned I just didn't like it. I'm happy with Win 7. And I guess there are others out there who are just as happy with it as I am.

OK, Here I am again. 

There might be two or maybe three things you could try that will work for you other than switching all the way over to Windows 10.
The most obvious thing is to not use Windows 7 to connect to the Internet. Instead, use your portable device such as a android or Apple tablet or phone. Bear in mind that Windows 7 is a Microsoft product and it has no impact at all on the computers run by the Apple operating system for the android operating system. If you have a smart phone, likely it is an android and the android system is maintained by Google. Okay?
But what if you really want to hook your computer to the Internet and still have Windows 7? Well, there is a way to do that. You can run Windows 7 inside of Windows 10 using a virtual machine. It would make sense to me that if Windows 10 is protecting you from the viruses and malware and Windows 7 is running inside of Windows 10, then it is not very likely that spyware or Malware  would harm the Windows 7 installation. Though that would be one way to work around it and some people actually do that. It spends on the power of your computer because a virtual machine kind of slows things down because you actually have two operating systems running one inside the other.
Now then, one last idea. Go ahead and install Windows 10 and make it do the things it has to do and then create a new user account. Maybe even to user accounts. Not for one of those accounts you're going to change some of the settings that can be done under personalization. Some where  I read that one user did it ans was able to change so many things in the settings that you would end up with a computer that acts and looks like Windows 7. But anytime you need to go back to the Windows 10 look and feel, you can just switch back to one of the other user accounts. Having different user accounts is one neat way to experiment with different things without losing everything.
Off the top of my HEAD I can't remember the link about the fella that did that. Maybe somebody else remembers that idea of making Windows 10 look like Windows 7.

That's all I have for now. 
Hi
There are tools to make Windows 10 look like windows 7 like CLASSIC shell from here  http://www.classicshell.net/downloads/

I'm advising my clients with computers which are still reliable, to do the upgrade to 10 on a copy of their hard drive to take advantage of the free activation at the moment.  On some without a SSD drives I image their old drive to an SSD then check it boots then update Windows on the old drive to windows 10 and check it activates. Then their Windows 7 runs faster on the SSD and should Windows 7 get unmanageable then they can just image the Windows 10 drive to the SSD.
   Lisa_maree, Good post.

You Tube also has videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkEP3xdYctE
Have fun.  Quote from: Geek-9pm on January 13, 2020, 07:54:35 PM

OK, Here I am again. 

The most obvious thing is to not use Windows 7 to connect to the Internet. Instead, use your portable device such as a android or Apple tablet or phone. Bear in mind that Windows 7 is a Microsoft product and it has no impact at all on the computers run by the Apple operating system for the android operating system. If you have a smart phone, likely it is an android and the android system is maintained by Google. Okay?

But what if you really want to hook your computer to the Internet and still have Windows 7? Well, there is a way to do that. You can run Windows 7 inside of Windows 10 using a virtual machine. It would make sense to me that if Windows 10 is protecting you from the viruses and malware and Windows 7 is running inside of Windows 10, then it is not very likely that spyware or Malware  would harm the Windows 7 installation. Though that would be one way to work around it and some people actually do that. It spends on the power of your computer because a virtual machine kind of slows things down because you actually have two operating systems running one inside the other.

I am running Win7 pro SP1 7601 intell 6600 2.40ghz 3GB RAM
GeForce 8600m GT 512
Soon after I load up my GPU drivers, The screen will crash as soon as I try to run any programs, especially something involving the video card.
In the Event Viewer I see some events re-occuring over & over along with the crashes of my screen.

Level - Error; source - event log; event id - 6008; task catagory - none
Level - critical; source - Kernal Power; event id - 41; task catagory - (63)
Level - Error; source - event log; event id - 1101; task catagory - event processing
Level - Error; source - WMI; event id - 10; task catagory - none



When my screen goes black, you can still hear the computer running, just with no screen.
Unfortunately, my only choice at this point is a hard power down, which results in the option to boot in safe mode when it starts back up, so I do not know if any of these errors are related to the hard shutdown.  (holding down power button)

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
The COOLING system on this machine is pretty robust and everything is clean and operating.

I can get the gpu driver installed, and the system appears stable at first. The screen will glitch occasionally, but I can cruise around in windows and run VARIOUS on board UTILITY windows programs.

However, If I try to play a video, then the screen goes black, but you can hear the video running in the background.
I deleted your duplicate post - no need to post the same question more than once.

What is new or different since the LAST time everything worked properly (ie, new HW, new sw, virus, error, etc)?I have posted about this machine on both XP and Win7 forums. I have posted in hardware and software threads.

The machine has trouble on both OS's, So I have been looking for insight in either direction.

I try to be specific.

Replies I have received mention cooling a lot, so I did do some cut and paste at one point just to clarify in advance that I had considered the cooling system.

apologies for any trouble 

I currently have Windows 7 on my 2011 Dell Studio XPS computer.  It now only has 139 GB free of 465GB on the Local Disk.  It has several 2.0 usb ports (4 plus ports). 
 
I will be purchasing a new computer very soon (still shopping).  I'll need to transfer documents, photos, etc. to the new computer.  What flash drive should I purchase that will work with both my old and new computer? I do not know what ports will be available on the new computer.

I'm looking on Amazon at the SanDisk Cruzer 256GB USB 2.0 Flash Drive (SDCZ36-256G-B35).... Other suggestions are APPRECIATED.

Note.... I am not all that tech savvy so any help would be very much appreciated.  Thank you in advance.You could save money going with a smaller flash drive and copying over the data in smaller chunks if you want to save money. For example 32GB USB sticks aren't that expensive and if you make folders that have data in them that you check the size of such as making a bunch of 30GB of data folders like data1, data2, data3 and so on. You could use that 32GB flash drive to copy the contents of data1 folder to it and copy that to new computer and then delete the contents of the usb flash drive and copy the contents from data2 and do the same thing and then data3 and so on if you want to save money. Otherwise if you dont want to be bothered with having to chunk the data out into small folders of a maximum size that doesnt exceed the usb flash drive its actually better to buy like a 1TB or larger external hard drive and copy the data that way from one system to the next.

I personally like to use low cost solutions so I've done this with a smaller USB stick with data broken up into chunks that dont exceed the maximum storage capacity of the media that is being use to copy the data from one system to the next.

If you WANTED to save even more money if you had someone who knows how to network 2 computers together with a data share between them you could tell it to copy the contents from one system to another and leave it going and the SYSTEMS would transfer the data at either 100mbps or 1000mbps depending on what network adapter speed is and network router or switch speed is using hardware you ALREADY have on hand.
A USB 1 tb harddrive like this Western Digital one,  WD 1TB Blue My Passport Portable External Hard Drive - USB 3.0 - WDBYNN0010BBL-WESN are only $10.00 more and would be faster writing and reading than the flash drive. And it has the Transfer software included. Description of WD backup  https://support-en.wd.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/3653For a more generic answer, you should buy a USB 3.0 device because the new computer you buy will support USB 3.0.  The 3.0 device will still be backwards compatible to the 2.0 ports on your old computer.  When you copy from the old computer to the device, it will copy at 2.0 speed but when you copy to the new computer, it will transfer at 3.0 speed.  However, don't go with a device that uses a USB C connector since the new computer might have but your old computer doesn't so it won't be able to connect to the old computer unless you buy an adapter.

USB devices are always backwards compatible so when buying a new USB device, always buy the latest version.Thank you so much for your reply.  What is the name of the adapter I would need to buy? TIAThis is the adapter you would need if you got a USB C device: https://www.amazon.com/Thunderbolt-Compatible-Chromebook-Pixelbook-Microsoft/dp/B07KR45LJW/ref=asc_df_B07KR45LJW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312780390407&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1142299780841838908&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032516&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-636721944170&psc=1

It's called a USB C to USB adapter.Thank you so much for your response....You have gone above and beyond to help me.  Now on to finding a new desktop computer for home use.  I mainly use it for email, saving articles, streaming and social media.  I love to search for info.  Do you have any suggestions?  I'm still picking your brain....LOL.  Thanks again.
cats,
Please start a new thread.
That way the CH index worlds better.  OK, will do.

Hi, im new need some help getting bsod after fresh install win 7. replaced mb, cpu psu and ram last week

cpu ryzen 2600
mb gigabyte b450 aorus m
ddr4 patriot viper 3200, 8gb
hdd wd 1tb blue ( got htis one 2 months ago brand new, and had win 7 all time with no issues with my old combo cpu+mb phenom 2)

in short got minidup file abouth bsod, cant FIX this alone. thanks


After the fresh install did you remember to re-install all drivers ? ?yeah TESTED all chipsed drivers from mb site all making bsod to me on win 7. longest up i had without  bsod was 12hr  sometimes every 10 min .Did you do all drivers ? ?...if so where from ?
I like Window7 a lot. I don't want to remove it. But some of its drivers have EXPIRED. Can these be recoverable? Quote

I like Window7 a lot. I don't want to remove it. But some of its drivers have expired. Can these be recoverable?

As I understand it support and regular updates for Windows 7 was due to end on JANUARY 14. It is now 23:39 on January 15. I just noticed a little pop-up telling me I have an update or updates. Click to proceed or words to that effect.

Just prior to this I did a restart. During the restart I had a BLUE screen and message saying something like configuring Windows installing updates do not turn off your computer.

What the HECK's GOING on?
It's the final update...let it finish.I had another notification this morning saying I've got updates ready to be downloaded. Strange CONSIDERING its 5 days since the end of support.***sigh***

Let it finish the updates.

P.S. Contrary to all the doom/gloom articles you have read Win 7 will continue to run fine for many many years

At ONE time,  I knew how to map out a desktop to show all hardware and all programs installed.  Now I can't remember this due to a "senior" BRAIN.   I still have a list of an old XP pc, listing everything including serial numbers of installed programs.  I would like to do the same or similar to a WIN 7 and WIN 10 desktops.  How do I do this?I use Belarc Advisor

Quote

The Belarc Advisor builds a detailed profile of your installed software and hardware, network inventory, any missing Microsoft hotfixes, anti-virus status, SECURITY benchmarks, and displays the results in your Web browser.

All of your PC profile information is KEPT private on your PC and is not sent to any web server.

When I GO full screen the  picture is blurry I have the resolution as high as it will go and the largest size, I am on windows 7  and GOOGLE chrome  I have cleaned the  MONITOR screen but am reluctant to fiddle with it's controls before I get advice from you knowledgeable people, I await some replies .          I FIXED the problem myself, for your interest i opened a u tube image, clicked on the cog wheel and SET 750HD and all's well.

Does anyone KNOW if I can hook up my COMPUTER to a TV and my monitor at the same time so I can watch a movie or stream SHOWS on my TV and still surf the internet at the same time?  Thanks so much for any help offered.Yes., if the TV has HDMI input.
Get a dual monitor video card with a HDMI port.
You need a good internet connection.

Also, there are other ways to do it. Some Android Tablets have HDMI output. And there is the Roku device which USES Wi-Fi.
The PC/vid card NEEDS to support dual-monitors...

Windows Mail (Vista) stores e-mail messages in folders as .eml files (one file per MESSAGE). I understand the same is true of Windows Live Mail.  Now, an .eml file does not USUALLY store, in the message headers, the date RECEIVED for the message (the "Delivery-date" header is optional and generally absent).

Nevertheless, when Windows Mail (Vista) is run, and the table of messages appears, the date received is shown in the table. Presumably it is recorded by the program when the message is received.  But it is (generally) not part of the data in the .eml file itself.  So where does Windows Mail (Vista) store the received dates?

This question ARISES when e-mails are exported from Windows Mail (Vista) to another client.  The particular client I am now using (in Win 10) supports import from Outlook, Thunderbird, etc. but not from Windows Mail Vista, or from Windows Live Mail.  For these it only imports .eml messages, and so it cannot know the received dates but simply sets them the same as the sent dates ("delivery-date", if present, is ignored).  Where should it be looking to find the REAL received dates, as stored by Windows Mail (Vista)?

Trouble w/computer, lost my website source files.
went to website, captured source codes, recreated
folder and files.

Upon opening files, they all indicate "invalid source".

Someone EXPLAIN?Are you MISSING PHP SCRIPTING that would have been "Web Host" server SIDE, protected from COPYING from simple navigation to the website that may be missing or anything like that... and if you bring up the debugger in browser does it show why ? ( What source? )

I heard there is a system CHECKER tool online to see about compatibility between my current WINDOWS 7 Pro OS and Windows 10. I cannot SEEM to find it. Do you know where it is? Or how to CHECK compatibility?

ThanksHave you seen this?   
https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/deployment/planning/windows-10-compatibility

I am finding it NEARLY impossible to write an email, have tried many things but the PROBLEM is still there any SUGGESTIONS appreciated, funny thing, it is behaving itself while I am typing this. Perhaps that is a clue to the cause I use Incredimail, is there a link?                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Easy ENOUGH to find out - disable incredimail.Yes, but what do I do then?Use any other email client and see what happens.

Is there a known audio issue with a recent Win 7 update?

I watch TV and movies on my Win 7 PC, 23" widescreen monitor, with the audio sent to a stand-alone 'stereo'(5.1 receiver).

Recently, a few weeks ago, after a MS Win 7 update, my audio started sounding garbled, poppy, clicky, thumpy, and the longer times between reboots, screechy. After a reboot, the audio is fine for about a day or so, then goes 'bad'.

Is anyone aware of a recent Win 7 update that would CAUSE this? And if so, has MS put out a 'patch' for it? If not, should I 'back out' that update?

I've checked the following:

1) receiver is OK, as stand-alone CD/DVD players play audio/video fine.

2) The cables between my PC and receiver are plugged in tight, not broken, or bent.   

3) Ran the mdsched.exe(Windows Memory Diagnostic), came back OK.

I'm current with all MS updates, there is ONE Nvidia  Graphics Adapter update that I would PREFER not doing, as a few years back, I updated my GPU and it totally messed up my WMP. Does the Nvidia card just process video, or does it also process audio? If it does process audio, maybe that's the issue?

Anyone have any 'tests' that I can do to locate the issue that's causing sound to go bad about a day after rebooting?

Win 7, 16GB RAM, with all current MS updates.

Thanks!There was an update for windows 7 from 4 years ago which caused a problem with Realtek sound chips that was fixed in the next update. Which update do you think has caused this? If it was a driver update then i would roll back the driver.I'm not sure that it was a Win update....just that the sound problems started right after. The last Win OS update was Update for Microsoft Windows (KB4532945)' INSTALLED on 2/9/20. I have not updated my RealTek audio drivers, as they are up-to-date. Just discovered, that while my internet was down for an hour, I had no sound issues. As soon as my internet came back, the sound issues started again. Not sure why this is.

As it SEEMS LIKE my bad audio only occurs when my internet is active(my internet went down for an hour, and the audio I was playing stopped being garbled.
 
Is it a known issue that the most current Win 7 update 'Update for Microsoft Windows (KB4532945)' installed on 2/9/20, affects the 'network adapter'(Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller)? 

If so, is there is fix for this?

I have an HP PAVILION 14-B003TX laptop

https://mobilespecs.net/laptop/HP/HP_Pavilion_14-B003TX.html

Windows 8 is INSTALLED on it, is it POSSIBLE to install Windows 7 on it, I think that the laptop will work faster and I do not really like Windows 8

windows 7 completely suited me beforeThe problem with doing that is finding Win 7 drivers for it.  I checked on the HP site but they only have drivers for Win 8 and Win 10 for that laptop.  You'll be on your own to find Win 7 drivers.

dear experts
I recently clicked on WINDOWS live mesh and when my pc now start it is looking to connect to web I UNDERSTAND one DRIVE has now replaced this I use niether can I uninstall this without AFFECTING my windows live mail account thanks jabbaRemove Live Mesh...

First, I am a computer moron. Computers scare me. I had a strange thing happen about a week ago, out of the blue. I did NOTHING different or NEW, added nothing (would not know how, anyway). All of a sudden, overlaying most of the pictures and documents in My Pictures and My Documents, I got a square blue box with two >> in it.

Now, today, they have all changed to green boxes with a check mark in them. Then shortly after, some are covered with the green boxes and some with the blue.
Can this be caused by Microsoft and the fact that I still have Windows 7? Or something else?

Thank you for any help. Please explain in goo-goo English.A screen print would be most helpful.
How to post screenshots or images
That was an educated REPLY, how about HELPING me with the card reader problem. I am GETTING DESPERATE.

Hi,

I've got three (3) identical pc's: Acer Veriton M4630G-i7477X
each with 32GB ram. Business level pc's.

TWO of them reboot in about 35-40 sec's.

The third one takes about 3.5 min's to reboot.

When it starts booting up, I get the attached screen.

This pc just came back from Acer for a bad HDD; it was still under warranty.

Acer sent it back with its original configuration and installed a NEW HDD;
the original had a bad sector.

Anyone have any idea why this one pc is taking so long to boot?

Many thanks!

attached photo removed by allan per user requestI'd contact Acer right away and let them know that they didnt fix the issue. In your boot order it looks like you have PXE (Network) boot set before hard drive. Id change boot order in bios to set the PXE boot as the last on the list of boot order unless you actually have a need for PXE booting. I have seen before where a system will try to boot through PXE even when PXE is not available and take forever to time out and move on to the next device in boot order.

*Hopefully the stickers with phone number and other info on top of monitor isnt confidential in the pic.  1) Replace the cmos battery
2) Set the HD as the first device in the boot order in bios
3) See if there is a "fast boot" option in bios - if so, enable it DaveLembke

Thanks!

Yep, the PXE was set as #1 in the boot order!

I changed it to #4 and made "WINDOWS BOOT MANAGER" #1.

However, while doing that cut the boot time in half,
its still twice as slow as the other two, identical, pc's.

There's another thing that pops up during bootup:
please see the attachment.

Neither of the other two (identical) pc's show this.

It started appearing once this pc came back from Acer.

Any thoughts about what this is?

Do I need it?

Can I get rid of it?

BTW: thanks for the heads-up on the pic.
Do you know how I can remove that pic
from my post and replace it with another?

PS: how can I embed an image into the body of my text?
I tried clicking the icon for 'insert Image" but all it did
was to PUT there and gave me no option
to choose an image!  Thanks!

Thanks!

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]The  insert image thing requires a full URL.
You can put a photo   on any file sharing site.
Or use your own web site.

Hi!

My original post included a pic with some info I didn't want showing
and requested that it be deleted, which (THANK you!) it has.

So I modified that pic and have attached it, and I've included my
original post:

Hi,

I've got three (3) identical pc's: Acer Veriton M4630G-i7477X
each with 32GB ram. Business level pc's.

Two of them reboot in about 35-40 sec's.

The third one takes about 3.5 min's to reboot.

When it starts booting up, I get the attached screen.

This pc just came back from Acer for a bad HDD; it was still under warranty.

Acer sent it back with its original configuration and installed a new HDD;
the original had a bad sector.

Anyone have any idea why this one pc is taking so long to boot?

Many thanks!

UPDATES:

1. From here and other forums I learned that I needed to change the
boot order putting the network boot option to the end.  That has
cut the boot time in half, but its still twice the bootup time of the
other two (identical) pc's.
          Any idea's?

2. While booting up, for a short time I'm shown an option to,
"Press Shift + F10 for RealManage"; see attachment.
          When I press Shift+F10 i'm taken to a Realtek login
screen.  When I attempt to use every login credential for
every user on this pc, none of them allows me to log in.
          Why is this Realtek RealManage there??
          Do I need it?
          Can I get rid of it if I don't need it?
          This first appeared after the pc came back from Acer;
neither of the other two pc's display this during bootup.

All suggestions, thoughts, comments are much appreciated!

Thanks!

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]What happens if you reset BIOS to defaults ? ?
NOTE...press F10 to save changes and Exit after doing so.... patio:

I'll see if a reset to defaults in the BIOS is even there.

I don't recall seeing it, but I'll look harder and report back!

Thanks!You said that Acer replaced the hard drive.  Have you checked to see what model of drive they replaced it with and compared that with what the other two machines have?  It could be that the replacement drive they fitted is slower than the ones in the other PCs. camerongray

I haven't compared the replaced drive with the other pc's
but the HDD that was replaced was not the C:\ drive.

C:\ is a solid state drive and they didn't touch that one.

D:\ is the spinning disk type that was replaced.

So if Windows is loaded onto the SSD, and the HDD
Acer put is is slower than the original, would that make
a difference in bootup time?

Thanks!This is a suggestion for diagnostics. Can you use a USB stick to boot the  PC?
If so, How long does it take to boot? Geek-9pm

I don't know how to boot from a usb drive.

How do you do that? Quote from: JohnDohe on January 21, 2017, 06:27:12 PM

Geek-9pm
I don't know how to boot from a usb drive.
How do you do that?

Hello Folks,

How can I adjust the sound parameters on SOUNDS coming out of
windows, the same way I adjust them on any media PLAYER. 
I want to be ABLE change the sound QUALITY (similar to an equalizer or filter)
coming out of you TUBE, music videos, etc.

Thank you

ziloo

Hi everyone and anyone,

So, I have a veeery OLD PC that I’m having PROBLEMS trying to find a screen recording program to record with SOUND. I've been using Debut with download, run and recorded with ease, except there's not sound on the playback. I've spent an hour going through Youtube videos and Google SEARCH tips but nothing SEEMS to work(?).

I think therefore it might be my spec...


AMD Athlon 7750

Dual-core processor

4Gb RAM

ATI Radeon HD 4350

Running on Windows Vista

If anyone can help with this or if they know of any other recording software that would work then would be great.

Thank you

Can ANYONE provide me with INSTRUCTIONS on how I can burn a PDF Book I bought on ebay to a DVD-RW....or can I?  I have Windows 7....  Or would it be easier to copy to a FLASH drive?  Note: this PDF ebay purchase includes 4 books. Thanks in advance for any help provided.
If you just want to save the pdf FILE you can burn it to a CD. Make sure you make a data disc or just save it to a flash drive.Thank you so much for your help.     

Is it possible to have two operating systems by means of a partitioned disc drive. I'd like to have Win 7 on one PARTITION with Win 10 on ANOTHER. If it is possible how WOULD I switch between partitions and how can I make one partition bootable say Win 7?

Thanks.   I have XP and Windows 8 on my computer. When it boots you have designate which OS you want to start.TNX Dave.It's called dual boot.  If you have a computer with Windows 7 already installed and you install a newer OS (such as Win 10) on it, one of the install options will be to dual boot the older Os and the newer OS.I would highly advise not to have them on the same HDD...the cleanest method is seperate HDD;s and as mentioned above at boot you choose which HDD/OS to boot to.

Note : When you are setting this up disconnect the existing Win HDD and install to the other HDD...
OTHERWISE you'll have a clusterfuge

Hello, to begin, i have a TOSHIBA satellite L755 laptop with windows 7 64bit. anyway,the hhd went out so i PURCHASED a refurbished hhd  & INSTALLED it.  now I push the power button & it starts up to when I can see the F2 & F12 BUTTONS, then it clicks off . I know that since its a neww hhd in it, that there is NOTHING on the drive, so should i create partitions & format then install windows? i do have windows 10 toothat i can put in it if that would make a difference.  let me know what to do from here   thanks

Respected Everyone,
I am shubham, i was using the XAMPP software for using mysql database. I did some start and stop of apache server, mysql server. During this process my PC got into BSoD blue screen of death. After which i turned it off and turn on again. But this time it didn't turned on.

CPU was running, lights were visible but nothing on display, and all mouse keyboard were still off. I google and found my RAM was damaged so i got my old ram and inserted and the pc turned on but having error.

The error was CMOS date and time error , but when i press F1 to select default date it SHOWS error PXE e61 Media test failure. Exiting pxe mof rom.

I check my connection of harddrive they are fine. There's important data on my hdd. Can someone help me to figure out the path?You need to REPLACE the CMOS battery...PART # CR 2032...

A couple of days ago I turned on my desktop and was immediately told to not turn off my computer while Win 7 is updating. I thought they stopped updating Win 7. Regardless, i MADE it run its course and when that part was done, I saw a message, I believe it was either from Microsoft or Verizon asking me to install the Edge browser.
I thought why would they want me to install "Edge" on a discontinued support of Win 7.  Has anyone else RECEIVED these functions lately?  Is this a HACKER? Do you have a screenshot of this so we can see if it LOOKS to be a legit source for message. No, i do not have a screenshot...didn't think of it....but...after Xing out and went thru my usual browsing, it did appear again about installing Edge, nothing more about updating win 7...if it appears again, which it probably will, then i will do a screenshot. Still can't understand why they seem to 'nag' one to install it, unless of course its a hacker. I got the same thing last night as I was switching off my computer. There was the usual message, 'don't turn off your computer'. When I booted my computer this morning I got the same message. When it cleared I got the welcome screen and then I found Edge had been installed on the PC.

I've uninstalled it as I don't intend to use it. 

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/edge

Normally a DROP down box appears when I plug in the reader, but today my picture page appears instead, I TRIED another reader and changed the port, I then did a SYSTEM restore, with no result. Can SOMEONE put their finger on a solution. Thank you in anticipation.Is the CARD still usable? What kind of card?

Hi, new here and my first post.  Hope you can help me with my problem.

I have and Acer Aspire x1300 desktop that has W7 Pro x64 installed on one partition.  On a SECOND partition I have W10 Pro  v. 1909 installed.  The problem didn't show up until I installed W10 on the second partition.

When I boot my desktop, after the BIOS screen CHKDSK starts every time.  I have allowed chkdsk to run completely a couple of times but it still starts when I boot the desktop. Does anyone here have any idea how to solve this problem. 

I wouldn't be considered a computer expert, but I can REPAIR them, install OS's, build computers, etc.
Any help would be appreciated. What you see is autocheck running because it detects a dirty bit. Unfortunately, autocheck does not run with any switches. OPEN a command prompt and type:

chkdsk c: /r

You will be told the drive is locked because it is in use and asked if you want to run checkdisk on the next boot. Say yes and reboot. Allow checkdisk to run to completion - it may take a while.Thanks Allan.  That seems to have solved the problem.  If it comes back I will let you know.  Thanks again.You're very WELCOME.

My budget is $200, i want a computer that has anything above opengl 3.3 on it, right out of the box. with windows 7 operating system. Dinosuar or not, those two things are all\\\ all i care about. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thank you for your time.Curious what application you have for OpenGL as for most are using DirectX with Windows 7? Additionally the OpenGL application MIGHT point out what hardware you will need paired with the application.

What software or games will you be playing with the system? What type of performance are you expecting for $200?

$200 is PRETTY TIGHT, you might be looking at a used computer and adding a $30 video card etc which would fit within $200. But knowing what your needing this for will assist us in what you need for hardware.alright guys, i think i found a solution from going CSI and balancing the budget, Can you please tell me if this SETUP would work?

Computer i'm considering:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883162081&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-VigLink2-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=8167372&SID=iyamncngti000a1700053


and the graphics card:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125898&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Video+Cards+-+AMD%2FATI-_-N82E16814125898&gclid=CNz42OPb3tECFYlffgodqLoO5A&gclsrc=aw.ds

If i got both and tried to install them, would it work and be compatible?

That card will work fine in that PC...
Heres an alternative though...Here...

Same price RANGE...but as a builder and a tech i prefer Nvidias over AND's for many reasons...My concern would be the power supply in that Dell.  It may be too wimpy to handle that card and it non-standard so may not be easily upgradeable.
  $425 .... more than 2 x the initial budget then.

I was playing something on my computer then it suddenly froze. I closed it by holding the "POWER" button and then i restarted it. But INSTEAD of seeing my normal desktop, i saw only my mouse icon. I waited a long time but nothing happened.
Do you have any ideas about how to repair it?I WOULD try 2 or 3 cold boots....cold boot = full shutdown and a 2-3 minute wait... QUOTE from: patio on January 26, 2017, 09:10:30 AM

I would try 2 or 3 cold boots....cold boot = full shutdown and a 2-3 minute wait...

By "i closed it using the POWER button" i meant cold boot

Quote

Another option could be to INSTALL MS-DOS (Assuming it has a Floppy drive) to at least have it have an OS.

It takes several seconds to open a menu when right clicking on any item anywhere on my computer. Up until recently I had assumed that it was just a result of waiting on the mechanical hard drive to SPIN up, but today I noticed it with a USB hard drive and USB stick.

Does anyone know how I might track down what would be causing the problem?The primary cause of the right-click menu being slow is excess or poorly performing Explorer Extensions.

You can use a tool like ShellExView. To check these out. If you sort by Type, you'll want to look at the "Context Menu" entries, in particular, Non-Microsoft entries, which are highlighted in Pink.

I've found Zip and Archive programs that add a lot of options can drag down performance here, especially if you install a few of them.

A lot of other programs will add their own little Context Menu extensions. For example NVidia adds one that will basically check if you are right-clicking the desktop, and if so show the added option for NVidia Control PANEL. MBAM adds one that will allow scanning folders, etc.

Of course you can re-enable items afterwards, thankfully.

When you disable/enable items it will be necessary to restart Explorer. Seems they've added an item on the Options Menu for this since I last used it. Quote from: Accessless on January 31, 2017, 04:13:03 PM

It takes several seconds to open a menu when right clicking on any item anywhere on my computer. Up until recently I had assumed that it was just a result of waiting on the mechanical hard drive to spin up, but today I noticed it with a USB hard drive and USB stick.

Does anyone know how I might track down what would be causing the problem?

The primary cause of the right-click menu being slow is excess or poorly performing Explorer Extensions.

You can use a tool like ShellExView. To check these out. If you sort by Type, you'll want to look at the "Context Menu" entries, in particular, Non-Microsoft entries, which are highlighted in Pink.

I've found Zip and Archive programs that add a lot of options can drag down performance here, especially if you install a few of them.

A lot of other programs will add their own little Context Menu extensions. For example NVidia adds one that will basically check if you are right-clicking the desktop, and if so show the added option for NVidia Control Panel. MBAM adds one that will allow scanning folders, etc.

Of course you can re-enable items afterwards, thankfully.

When you disable/enable items it will be necessary to restart Explorer. Seems they've added an item on the Options Menu for this since I last used it.

I have Windows 7 ULTIMATE 64bit with 8GB of ram on a ASUS P5E-VMHDMI pc, the graphics card is a Zotac Geforce GT 630.
I have had this problem for quite while i must admit, most likely on watching videos as they download. Usually after using iobit SYSTEMCARE and deffragging, then rebootingm the issue is a bit contained until a few videos/hours/days later.
I i could know when the STUTTER is happening i WOULD love to film or record the horrible noise, but it really is random, most likely until the file is finished downloading.
Any idea of a correction for this issue or what could be causing it?
Run MEMTEST86 and make sure your RAM is good, as well as run CRYSTALDISKINFO and make sure HDD is healthy. I had a system a while back have the same issue and it was RAM related. A friend of mine had a HARD drive that was dying and it causes swap space paging issues with RAM and a similar problem.

I am trying to use briefcase to sync some FILES from my thumb drive to my desktop. I am getting a pop up saying the files are ORPHAN files and can't be updated. Orphan files means they have been moved or are MISSING...I can see the files in the briefcase on my desktop and my thumb driveDoes it show PROPER size for these files or are they all 1k etc?Likely 1K....They are 15kbThose are nothing more than shortcuts to the ORIGINAL files...
I'd search the file names if i were you...

After the latest automatic update,I now have a luminous yellow green screen?I have tried to repair it by-:
1.Trying system restore,which worked but I still have the Green Desktop.
2.Removed the Nvidia GEFORCE GT240 Graphics card and installed a different ONE..makes no difference.
3Replaced the Hard Drive with another and installed a different operating system..Ubuntu..I still have the green screen!

I am wondering if Windows has somehow destroyed the graphics controller on my motherboard..an Intel DG45ID with quad core Q8200 Processor and 8GB DDr2 Memory.

Has anyone else experienced this problem,is anything recoverable or is the Motherboard damaged beyond repair?

Any Help appreciated

Michael1) Windows can't destroy hardware.
2) Have you tried a different DISPLAY just to rule out bad hardware?Id also agree that its the monitor itself or cable being used is damaged. Years ago I had a VGA display that if you moved the VGA cable just right you would get a PURPLISH red tinted screen. It was unfortunate that the monitor cable was hard wired to the 14" CRT, but the CRT was manufactured in 1989 and here it was 2001 and so it was about time for that display to be upgraded anyways as well as be able to break out of the 800X600 LIMITATION I had to 1024x768 with a newer SVGA 17" CRT display.

I have a Dell laptop that my husband uses and it started going funky on him last night.  He knows less about computers than I do, but I did get a message when I tried to run Malware saying Msvcp140.dll is missing, please install.  I don't know how to do that so I googled it and found a few websites that you can click on and download the fix.  Do I TRUST these websites?  I'm running Windows 7, the computer is an Dell Inspirion i-5. 3210 CPU. 2/.50 Ghz, mem:  8.00 GB, 64-bit operating system.  I did see a video on YouTube on how to do it, but I didn't understand about copying info from folder to folder.  If I can just click on a fix, that seems simple enough to me.  I'm just not sure about trusting them.  Thanks in advance!
Here is what Microsoft said.
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows8_1-files/msvcp140ddll-is-missing-from-your-computer/c253126e-8f11-45d0-828d-8ede40c3126a?auth=1
If you clink the link you can see, they said nothing. Over a year ago.

Before YU 'fix' it, you may wan to think about why it failed.
Here is a link that has more information than what MS had to say:
https://fix4dll.com/msvcp140_dll

From this one might think this is caused by a a third-party program that does not work well. The DLL FILE is from package needed for some program developed my somebody other than Microsoft. The best fix may be to give up using such a program.
On course, there could be other factors. You PC might have hardware problem. But I doubt it. Hardware never picks on  a specific software  program.

You can try and boot the PC in safe mode and see if you can roll back the system a few days before the event first started.
http://www.digitalcitizen.life/4-ways-boot-safe-mode-windows-10
I hope that can be of some help. 


Stay away from any sites that offer a download fix....
He can run sfc /scannow 1st to see if that solves it...

See Here...This computer is hardly used anymore since he got a "smart phone" a couple of years ago, so I have no idea of when this started as I never use this computer.  I tried to update all 66 updates he has on the computer, but it won't even do that.  I have Malwarebyte on it and I ran that, a few things came up that "might" be threats, I didn't know what they were, so I got rid of them.  And I also have forgotten how to start the computer is safe mode.  It's been so long since I did that, I have forgotten.  I'm getting ready to run the sfc/scannow program.  We'll see what happens.  Thank you!
Okay, I went to the scanner and it's telling me I have 2 programs with stability issues and registry has 433 issues.  Now they want me to pay them $27.95 to fix it.  Do I do it?
Quote from: debby on February 10, 2017, 03:47:55 PM

Okay, I went to the scanner and it's telling me I have 2 programs with stability issues and registry has 433 issues.  Now they want me to pay them $27.95 to fix it.  Do I do it?

but I did get a message when I tried to run Malware saying Msvcp140.dll is missing, please install.

Stay away from any sites that offer a download fix..

Okay, I went to the scanner and it's telling me I have 2 programs with stability issues and registry has 433 issues.  Now they want me to pay them $27.95 to fix it.  Do I do it?

Hi there,

The purpose of Windows 7 - just on the SECOND drive for car diagnostic tool software, otherwise on windows 10 won't work.

Laptop motherboard - gl702vt

I TRIED to install windows from USB CD DRIVE disc, USB flash drive, SD card and run windows 7 setup while on windows 10 (it starts to copy files and after that it restarts the computer and setup is gone)

In all 4 options I have this error 'No device drivers were found. Make sure that the installation media contains the correct drivers, and then click ok'. I also tried different ways switching off and on legacy support, safe boot etc.

After a research I think USB 3.0 cannot be recognised by windows 7 installation setup, is there any way around to get windows 7 installation setup working?

RegardsThe fact that it starts the setup and copies files but then fails seems to indicate that the USB 3.0 port concern isn't the issue.  Also, USB 3.0 ports are backward compatible with 2.0 so, again, that shouldn't be an issue.

When the machine reboots, do you see the message "Press any key to boot from CD/DVD"?  If so, make sure you do NOT press any key since once the setup files are copied to the drive the machine should boot from the hard drive and continue the installation.He got all his answers yesterday on Tom's Hardware. (No Win7 support for such a NEW laptop, have to slipstream drivers)

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-3328931/install-windows-64x-laptop-usb-ports.html

ATTENTION! Dear Customers,
Starting October 31, 2016 Microsoft has discontinued sales of Windows 7.
However, support for Windows 7 will continue until Jan. 14, 2020.
Please be informed; starting October 31, 2016, ANY Windows 7 computer offered in our Amazon store will be upgraded to and shipped with Windows 10 operating system. 

Trying to fix a friends ASUS laptop. She put on a new screen from a different model ASUS LTP, Windows wouldn't boot. So then she chose manufacturers default and Windows still won't boot and and also wont let me reinstall a new OS from a disk, USB or hard drive. Looked all over but can't find HELP. Driving me potty!! Am I missing something obvious? If ANYONE can help I'd be eternally grateful! Thanks.Try to boot in safe mode. Maybe the new screen has a different driver. In safe mode Windows will use a generic driver for the video.
Wait, do yu mean that it does not even show the normal sash screen at start-up? The one that just gives the name of the computer maker?screens do not have driversThanks for your replies. If I boot in safe mode i get a blue screen STOP c0000221 Unknown Hard Error\SystemRoot\System32\ntdll.dll
  QUOTE from: TimH on February 21, 2017, 02:13:29 PM

Thanks for your replies. If I boot in safe mode i get a blue screen STOP c0000221 Unknown Hard Error\SystemRoot\System32\ntdll.dll
 

Battery is pretty cheap, but this may or may not fix the problem you have. So is the price of replacement worth the gamble?

Google shows SPECS of:
ASUS X50VL-AG059P - 15.4" - Core 2 Duo T5450 1.66Ghz - 2 GB 667Mhz RAM - 160 GB HDD

So the 32-bit must be the OS, Not the processor SINCE that processor is a 64-bit CPU able to run backwards compatible to 32-bit OS.

The specs of this laptop are really weak. I have a Gateway laptop COMPUTER that was given to me with the T5200 1.6Ghz Core 2 Duo and its battery only lasts about 5 minutes without being plugged in. So it has to remain plugged in. Its also has just 2GB RAM and Windows 7 32-bit is not the fastest on it. I wouldn't put much money into the ASUS X50VL as for a refurb that is better can be purchased pretty cheaply or if your budget allows, buy a low cost brand new laptop for around $300-$400 that will perform far better than this. I even bought a brand new Del Laptop Core i3 2.1Ghz laptop brand new with Windows 10 and 500GB HDD for $279.99. The gateway that I got for free I leave as a beater laptop for my wife, daughter, or myself to use in the kitchen. If something gets spilled into it or if it falls off the table, no big loss.  Wife uses it to lookup recipes etc, so it WORKS for the purpose for a laptop that I dont care about its fate in the high risk location of the kitchen.    *Additionally memtest86 shows that this Gateway that was given to me has a memory issue where in 2 of 8 passes of the test there was a pattern mismatch, so its got issues, but it has only frozen up when left running for long lengths of time. At some point if I come across a good 2GB 533Mhz RAM Stick I might take the time to swap it out to resolve this minor issue. This laptop is also used for facebook games in kitchen and plays them but laggy because of the Integrated Intel 945 Mobile GPU which is really weak.

http://www.battdepot.com/us/search/model/Asus/X50VL.aspx?gclid=CO_Eqd3iv9ICFUY8gQodJVALFAThank you for your replies.

Yeah, in my opinion, it's not worth to invest money on this *censored* laptop. I may buy a new one in the near future, but meanwhile I'll be using this.

Back to the problem, if the BSOD issue can't be fixed easily, is there at least a way to "bypass" it for what I wanted to do: schedule a shutdown?  (Doesn't have to be a shutdown, can be a sleep or hibernation command/script, just something than i can leave home and leave it doing whatever i need it to do, but then at X time make it stop making noise >.< )
(schedule a shutdown, Have you checked Device Manager for any Yellow !!'s ? ?
All seems fine in Device ManagerJust makin sure...

I generally use Mozilla as my browser which is opening up fine, but need to go to IE and it won't open. I noticed the problem last week also when I clicked on the itunes icon. The small circle WOULD rotate a few times and nothing would happen. Clicking on the Mozilla icon is working fine. What should I check/do next? Running Windows 7 on HPWhat icons ? ?...Do you mean desktop shortcuts ? ?
If so the spinnin circle with no results points to a Win or HDD issue...
How much free space is on this hard drive ? ?
Run chkdsk /r on the drive from a command promptYes, the desktop shortcuts were not RESPONDING. I needed to get to IE so I did a system RESTORE to last checkpoint last month and now it is working. Unfortunately not sure if able to troubleshoot now. I see I have 11.7 GB usable RAM, where do I find HD free space? With the defrag options? Also to run chkdsk /r, is this something I do in safe mode or in the start MENU search box? Is this something I would hold off on for right now since things are working?In the start menu search box type in CMD and right click it and hit run as administrator. A black command prompt box will appear and patio wants you to run the "chkdsk /r" in that box. And id still do it just to make sure the problem doesnt come back.

Hi, First visit here.  I cant GET rid of a white oblong PANEL, which takes up about a THIRD of my screen. Not to experienced with pc, so need easy instructions, THANK you[/size][/size]

Hello, I've had this computer for 3+ years, and haven't reinstalled Windows on it once. I've had a lot of problems with it, mainly malware and adware, but seem to have solved them all.
At this time, I want to completely reinstall OS, but I don't have an installation disc, since my PC came with preinstalled Windows 7. I will need to sort things with backing up personal files and finding drivers, but my main worry at this POINT is reinstalling and validating my OS. But if you have any additional tips with reinstalling I'd greatly appreciate those as well. Thank you for any help!

I am using Windows 7 UltimateFirst of all, this is not a RECOMMENDATION re-install windows 7.
Rather, I RECOMMAND you   first try doing a "clone" of your system or a new or used HDD of about the same size or larger. This gives yu a option to get back to where you had been.

Did you Google for this?
How do I reinstall Windows 7 without a disk?
Part 1 Creating an Installation USB Drive or DVD

    Find your Windows 7 product key so that you can download Windows 7. ...
    Download the Windows 7 ISO from Microsoft. ...
    Download the Windows USB/DVD Download Tool (WUDT). ...
    Insert a USB drive (at least 4 GB) or blank DVD. ...
    Run WUDT to create your installation disc or drive.
http://www.wikihow.com/Reinstall-Windows-7-Without-CD

At your own risk.  I've read something about preinstalled Windows and Recovery Partitions. Is this the same as reinstalling Windows or something I should do?
Also, I've went to CONTROL Panel\System and Security\System and under Windows activation there's a Product ID with a XXXXX-OEM-XXXXXXX-XXXXX format. Is this the product key I need?Yes, you will need the Windows 7 Product ID before you download for Windows 7.
The Key is 25 characters in groups of five.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows7
Quote

Before you begin
    Make sure you have:
        Your Windows product key (xxxxx-xxxxx-xxxxx-xxxxx-xxxxx). Learn more.
        An internet connection (internet service provider fees may apply).
        Sufficient data storage available on a computer, USB or external drive for the download.
        A blank USB or DVD (and DVD burner) with at least 4 GB of space if you want to create media. We recommend using a blank USB or blank DVD, because any content on it will be deleted.