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I need help if anyone know about E SATA Cards??

They have two diferant Exturnal SATA Drive units.

They both take SATA DRIVES but one plugs into your computer USB.

But one SATA Drive plugs into computer through a Card you put into the PCI slot.

What I don't get is they say USB will slow down the SATA Drive transfer but if I go with the Exturnal SATA Drive that goes DIRECTLY into a SATA Card in the PCI slit wont it slow down anyway when it get to the PCI slot?

If I did not explaine myself please ask me to put it diferantly.

Hi. I have a really urgent problem. My computer is not working, and some of my very IMPORTANT files are in there. So I took out my hard drive and connected it to another computer. However I cannot acces my documents because I had previously set up a windows login password on my computer, which means I can only access the files if I'm accessing my own computer. Do you have a WAY that can make me log on to the drive on another computer or some other way of finding the files. The files aren't lost, I just can't get to them. It has got a 10,000 word ESSAY on it and it's due on MONDAY! Please HELP!Try this:

For XP
http://support.microsoft.com/kB/308421

For Vista
http://www.mydigitallife.info/2007/05/25/how-to-take-ownership-and-grant-permissions-in-windows-vista/

I going to upgrade my graphics capability but could do with some ADVICE on what cards would be best or sites to look on??

I have a PCIe slot and a 300watt PSU

I need a card with a Shader 3.0 enabled (that the MIN. requirements for a game i have)

Cheers

RDgggit really just boils down to your budget, how much are you willing to spend?And what are you going to be doing on it?

What game may I ask?NVIDIA Geforce 8500GT runs fine on 300W PSU (I have one I am using now)

NVIDIA Geforce 8600GT should run fine on a 300W PSU. I have asked XFX and they replied saying 300W PSU should be ok and nvidia.com SAYS that too. But don't run too many other things requiring power in your system, that's what people have told me, otherwise GET new quality higher watt PSU for safety.


Ask someone else if you're considering ATI, I don't know too much about ATI cards for 300W PSU's.i would not limit the type of video card he can get just because of his PSU wattage limitation. if a certain video card requires a higher wattage PSU, it would simply be best to also purchase a new PSU with it.Budget - I don't know really, suppose i'm looking for what i want at a reasonable price.

I'm going to be playing games on it, the game i've GOT is LOST

I could upgrade the PSU there's a sale on in my local PC World.

Does the NVIDIA Geforce 8500GT have the Shader 3.0well, new PSU is good. I don't mean that you can't get a new PSU, but I meant that 8500GT is a good card if you want to keep the 300W PSU.

Otherwise, get a new PSU and a better card!

hi.
I have 2 DVDs and 3 CDs that cannot be read.
All i can hear is my drive trying to read but not seeing anything there (no disc at all in "my computer").
Is there any software or help i can get so to "see" those discs and then repair or copy what is possible?

many thanks in advance for your helpLong shot here - if by any chance they have surface scratches - there is a treatment which involves a wipe over and polish - with some stuff that has same refractive index ... this can sometimes make a BAD disk play.

Otherwise - wonder too if a cleaning disk worth a try - in case laser is dirty.

Other test - try them in a buddy's player?i tried EVERYTHING possible. I tried 3 different PCs and 2 Macs, i also tried polishing and switching the auto run off.. Same problem to all discs. Seems the DEFECT was during the recording. What i need is something to see within these discs bypassing the stage when the computer tries to read the tree diagram. I need to "explore" them.I've had bad disks in past and does seem as if the file/folder info is unreadable, there's not much I ever found to get in there ... anyone else?

This incidentally is why after a burn I always check for read before feeling it is successful. Quote from: ChrisXPPro on August 20, 2008, 05:44:22 PM

This incidentally is why after a burn I always check for read before feeling it is successful.

Can you try another computer? Perhaps the CD Drive itself is faulty.

Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on August 21, 2008, 02:02:41 AM

Can you try another computer? Perhaps the CD Drive itself is faulty.

According to his second post, he's tried 5 computers already.

The only difference is that i burned them on a different computer,

I have a DELL INSPIRON 6000 that was getting the BLUE screen saying that new hardware blah blah blah and that it shut down to prevent injury to the computer.  I tried reformatting the computer and it worked for 3 days then crashed again so I bought a new hard drive, partitioned it, formatted it and installed XPSP3 on it.  It has worked for 5 days and when I booted it up this MORNING it SAYS there is no hard drive found, no bootable devices.  I removed the hard drive and reinstalled it thinking maybe it had jarred loose or something but it is not seeing it at all. 

What could be causing this to continously happen.  Is there an internal clock that could be corrupted that crashes on this computer after so many hours of use?  I am at a loss and tired of reformatting this hard drive.

Please help.Is it a third party hard drive or directly from Dell?

Went back to dial-up NZ ,because netzero DSL said, you must have a credit card for payment {only}!  I have a Hayes USB V. 92 56k fax-modem now, but wondered if there some better over-all operational EX. dail-up modems to choose from!!??   THANKS!I see no point is not using that Hayes USB V. 92 56k fax-modem you already have.

I'd hate GOING back to dialup.  You don't have a credit card?US Robotics modems are pretty good. I had one giving me good speeds and good reliability before I switched to DSL.

I have a Fujitsu A3040.  Crashed and goes to ESC Diagnostics F1 to load default F2 for setup.  Memory shows good.  Says CMOS Chechsum Bad.  Any selection leads to a BIOS password that I did not set.  I can't find a backdoor password to work.  Took entire laptop apart and removed CMOS battery.  (located in an impossible place under the speaker panel)  Didn't work.  Can't figure out who made the motherboard to get a idea where to find the CMOS jumpers.  Tried talking to Fujitsu online help.  Total joke...they have no idea and cant look up who made the motherboard.  Out of warranty so only option they give it to take in for repair.  Really hope to fix myself.

I can't change the boot order and have no floppy BUILT in, won't go to CD/DVD drive.  Tried a USB DOS Bootable but doesn't see it either so can't run any PROGRAM to tell me any info on maker.

Anyway.. can anyone tell me how I can tell where to find the CMOS jumpers or how to figure out who made the motherboard?  This is what I have so far...

Boot up screen says:

AMIBIOS (c) 2006 (there are no numbers at the bottom to figure out who made the motherboard as suggested on the AMI support page.

Chipset: ATI Radeon® Xpress 200M (RS482M and SB450)

Processor: AMD Turion™ 64 Mobile Technology MT-37 (2 GHz, 1 MB L2 cache) with high-speed Hyper-Transport™ Technology system bus operating at 1600 MT/s

Memory: 512 MB on board fixed memory, one DIMM slot; max 1.5 GB (512 MB + 1 GB), DDR 333 MHz

I have all recovery software and manuals but so far no help.

RS482M shows microstar, but all service manuals I find are for desktops.  Perhaps CUSTOM made motherboard?

I took pictures of the board if that will help.  Board says BOXER2 MAINBOARD02 in white letters but nothing found by searching. 

Please help!!  I am getting bald spots from pulling out my hair!! LOL!  Thanks! Belinda

Does this laptop have a floppy drive?

If it does...I was thinking...as a last resort...you could flash the BIOS to the most recent version.  You can get this information from the manufacturer's website.

Again...this is a LAST RESORT.

Knowing the manufacturer and model of the motherboard would definitely help.No floppy drive.  If I install a floppy will it see it without resetting the boot order?  I haven't tried that because I figured it won't see it.It depends on how the BIOS was originally configured.  However...the BIOS should see the floppy.

As it stands...you can't get into the BIOS due to the password issue.

It won't hurt to give it a try...

What do you have to lose?I tried to install a floppy.  No place on the motherboard that would ALLOW me to plug it in.

Anyone have any ideas?  Please help!! Thanks!Have you tried this:  http://www.tech-faq.com/reset-bios-password.shtmlThanks.  Yes I tried all the passwords listed just incase one will work.  Just read something about:

remove the bios battery and short the contacts of the bios battery holder to ground.

Does anyone know how to do this?  and if you think it will work?

Got me there...never tried it.Yep me too.  Appreciate your help.  I may be better off putting this darn thing on EBay and just taking my losses!I don't know about shorting the battery holder to the ground     but if you remove the battery on the motherboard and replace it after about 20 minutes, it should reset.Tried that.  Removed the battery for hours and still have the same problem.  Really hate to get beat by this but feel I have tried everything.  Almost a full week of tearing down and putting back together...not having any good luck with it.Try removing the CMOS battery again for several DAYS - seems like most people have success. Also, when digging around in the innards, did you find any dipswitches or jumpers that you could try?

Good luck.Ok I still can't get anywhere with this darm laptop!  I took it apart again, removed the battery, and tried to drain the charge by using a 10k OMH (I think that is what it was called).  It didn't work.  I read today that the info is held in the EEPROM.  Is that the case with this?  If yes any suggestions?  I am so frustrated. ThanksIf I remember properly, data in an EPROM cannot be changed.

Did you try Saviour's suggestion at all?

I have an old computer running W98. It has a USB port which I want to PLUG in a flash drive tyo copy my hard drive before get rid of it.

I am trying to find if IT IS USB 1.1, OR 2.0, ETC? SO i CAN GET A COMPATIBLE FLASH DRIVE.

aNY SUGGESTIONS?

tHANKSAs best I remember - I don't think you can make '98 do more than 1.1 - once the 'driver' installed from a floppy.

I do remember too - it was not overly successful trying to get USB functioning properly - on my old machine anyways.The key WORD is 'Enhanced'.If it's "Enhanced", it's USB 2.0. If it's not, then it's USB 1.1.

Right-click My Computer
Click on Properties
Click on the Hardware tab
Click on the device Manager button
SCROLL down until you see UNIVERSAL Serial Bus Controllers
Expand that by clicking on the boxed plus sign in front of
Universal Serial Bus Controllers.See if the word 'Enhanced' is
USED.

Read the below link and choose which windows 98 you have.
The generic USB drivers provided here work fairly often.

http://www.technical-assistance.co.uk/kb/usbmsd98.php

Hi there guys!

I have a Compaq laptop running windows vista. It has a built-in CD Burner and DVD reader.

Quite a while ago I borrowed a friends external USB DVD writer so I could burn something onto a DVD...now my computer still has this external writer as a drive under "my computer"   aswell as the inbuilt one. When I try to go and burn a normal old disc on my normal built-in CD writer the computer can't recognise it or doesn't "see it" even THOUGH it reads fine, etc.

So....what can I do so that my internal cd reader/writer does its job properly? Would it have something to do with the external writer that is still being recognised by the machine but isn't actually there?

Your help is much appreciated! Just a thought - maybe not that useful.

But did you use ''Safely remove hardware'' when you last removed USB DVD?  It does seem that sometimes windows will still think something is there when it isn't - if it is just unplugged when it SUITS and no ''OK to remove''.

Maybe - long shot - plug in that USB again and CHECK it is seen properly and works - then also see if the onboard writer works or not.  Then remove USB properly by ''Safely remove" and see if it disappears properly.Thanks for your help, the only thing is that I don't have the DVD Burner anymore so unless there isn't another way I may have to see if I can borrow it from my friend again....

Cheers.Well - it just dawned on me you probably hadn't got it now but - as a START at least I think it would be worth a try doing this - if you can manage a borrow again even briefly.  No guarantees at all but proper dismounting can perhaps help.

As ever with puters - it is often one thing at a time and this for now seems like FIRST move.  May be other ideas on this if others post of course.

Silly question maybe - have you rebooted since this observation? - just wondering.Have just text my friend to see if he still has the DVD Burner and will try the dismounting...will post how it goes lol

First hello everyone.

 My problem is this. Just a few days ago I tried to turn on my computer and it seems like it tried to start up but went dead on me. I have taken the side panel off to get a better look at what was going on and here is what I notice. When PLUG in, there is a power light on the motherboard that is light up. When I press the on button, for a few seconds, the cpu fan, psu fan and case fan come on and then shuts down. Pressing the on button again will do nothing unless I shut the PSU off and turn it BACK on, press the on button once again and the fans come on for a short second. Nothing else HAPPENS, the hdd will not spool up.I have metered the power supply and there is 115 v going to it. Could anyone help me in trouble shooting this problem, thanks.

Specs,
The computer is about 6-7 yrs old.
Intel 3.0ghz
450 w power supply
Windows XP
80 Gb hard drive
1 Gb DDR2 ram I am thinking age here - and possible failure of one or more PSU rails.

I would wish to remove plugs on supply rails from their RESPECTIVE devices and see if all give feeds - looking for 3.3v, 5v, and 12v.  The mobo LED suggests I think 5v present but if something else is missing you possibly won't go beyond fans.

Check this out first - seems you know how to use a meter, which helps.  If PSU is OK then maybe BIOS - wonder if BIOS battery has expired.

Hi there!

I'm having some weird things going on with my laptop.

It all started when i had Win 7 for months and suddenly, when I was playing a game, it froze and went into a blank screen, the SOUND was weird too. Well, the first few times it showed a blue screen with crash dump REPORT. But when i turned it off and back on, EVERYTHING was alright.
 
Next time, when it happened, the screen went red. So i restarted and it was okay again. And then when i crashed again, and tried to restart, it would only show me a blank screen. Like I could see windows logo and loading and stuff, but then, when i was supposed to see my desktop, there was just a blank screen, no mouse , no nothing. My computer was making a normal sound that time, like it should be working.
Then i reinstalled my graphics driver, but the first thing i saw was 6 little SCREENS of desktop, and i could move my mouse on all of them. Well that happened quite a couple of times too. But when i restarted, it ALWAYS disappeared.

So I thought, maybe the win 7 graphics driver was kinda new,and i tried other drivers, but still same thing. So i reinstalled windows for win xp, and at first it wouldn't even let me install any graphic drivers at all. It would always get stuck and give me a blank screen.

Then i tried to look inside to see what's wrong, and i couldn't really open it normally. I could only open the part with ram and that fan cooler thingy. So i cleaned up a little and turned my comp on again. I could then reinstall my driver, but i still get stuck with blank screen.

I can open safe mode though, and whenever i uninstall graphic driver, it all works fine, no blank screen.

So yeah, my question is, is there a solution besides seeing the IT guys and getting a new graphic card?

I've been searching all over the net, but all the blank screen probs are very different from mine, so if i missed anything, sorry, i really did all the search in the world i could.


Thanks in advance!

Hello, I am building my first gaming computer. I want to be in the “best value” SWEET spot where you get 90% of the performance but not much in the way of bragging rights. I want to be able to play GAMES like Crysis on high settings, but don’t mind lower resolutions like 1024x768. I would like to spend less than $1000, but will consider spending slightly more if necessary. I was hoping to get any input on the components I have chosen so far:

Newegg wishlist of all items: https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/MySavedWishDetail.aspx?ID=17629407

Processor: i5 750 ($200)
MoBo: MSI H55M-P31 ($90)
Graphics:  Powercolor  or Sapphire ATI 5830 ($240)
Memory: PNY XLR8 1600 6GB (3x2GB) ($170)
Case: Cooler Master Centurion 590 ($60)
     Or: Cooler Master Centurion 541 ($40)
Hard Drive: Hitachi 1TB 7200 ($85)
Optical Drive Sony DVD/CD RW ($24)
Power supply: Coolmax NW-650B 650W ($49)
Memory card reader ($10)
Already own a decent 24” 1920x1200 Dell monitor.

Total: $903

A few specific questions:
1-Most importantly, have I overlooked any compatibility issues?
2-Will this memory work well with the mother board?
3-Will these components fit in the smaller case, or should I go bigger? Along the same lines, should I consider a full ATX mother board?
4-Any general IDEAS on balancing the system would also be appreciated.

Thanks!
Only 2 observations and keep in mind it's just my personal preference...
1) If building a desktop machine there is no good reason to use an ATX mini MBoard...
2) With over a grand invested 50 Bucks on a PSU is scrimping...

Other than that some more people will have advice.
Good Luck on your new build...Thanks Patio. I modified my wishlist with what I think is a better quality PSU (OCZ, 700 Watt, $80). I'm looking into bigger case/mobo combinations as well. I`m no computer-guru but why not spend a little more on a motherboard so you can upgrade some more when the really EXPENSIVE stuff goed down in price.I allways do that and it has never failed me.
I wish you all the best,good luck with your computer and greetings from Holland;Eric.

Hello all,
I tried INSTALLING some new ram TONIGHT and when I hooked everything back up and turned it on, I get a message "disk drive failure" and it asks for a boot disk. I tried putting the old ram back in and got the same. It doesn't seem to be recognizing the HARD drives, at least not consistantly. Sometimes I can get it to show up in the bios, other times it doesn't. Everything was working fine prior.  I obviously messed something up, even though I was quite careful.  and now I'm really kickinG myself for not backing up everything before ( what I thought was going to be a simple task). Any ideas what went wrong?  We would guess that you pulled a cable out of a a connector.
Not surprisingly, that thought did occur to me. I have checked over the cables NUMEROUS times and Everything seems to be plugged in as it should be. It still may be a cable problem. Both SATA and IDE cables are delicate. Even the power cable going to the drive can fail with no risible sign. Happens to me all the time.
- or -
Perhaps you also RESET the CMOS while in there.The BIOS is trying to boot the wrong drive.Check you BIOS.

The paperfeed from the REAR TRAY STOPPED working.You might WANT to CONTACT Canon

I have an older PC, that has only IDE connections. My hard drive died so I decided to just buy a SAT hard drive and hook it up through a SATA to IDE converter. I have set EVERYTHING up, formatted the hard drive and was able to get the windows installation disk to see the hard drive and start the instalation process.

After the initial copying of the files is done, the PC re-boots but does not find a bootable PARTITION so tries to start the start up process again. And on and on. I have tried this 3 times with the same results.

What can I do? Can that set up work?

Also, the computer only recognizes 160GB of my 750GB of the new hard drive.

any ideas would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks,

Quote from: keano0166 on February 26, 2010, 11:22:19 AM

I have an older PC, that has only IDE connections. My hard drive died so I decided to just buy a SAT hard drive and hook it up through a SATA to IDE converter. I have set everything up, formatted the hard drive and was able to get the windows installation disk to see the hard drive and start the instalation process...

...it does give me some sort of an error, IDE channel...

OK, I have a had a problem for a while now with my disc drive, it only reads some discs. For example, if i were to PUT in my DooM 3 game disc in DVD drive it would run perfectly normal... but if i were to put in another game in like Enemy Territory Quake Wars, the DVD drive doesn't budge, and the weird thing is that it used to WORK! I've tried starting all of my games from "My COMPUTER" after nothing comes up on Auto-play. When i DOUBLE click or right click and click "open" it says that i need to insert a disc into the disc drive??? I just spent about $90 upgrading my computer's graphics so that i could actually play my games so it would be great help if someone could tell me how to fix this problem. Swap the drive into another machine and see if it does the same thing...if so the drive is getting ready to fail.

I WANT to upgrade but not SURE which ram to BUY , which TYPE, no of PINS etc


Check out Crucial.com's scanner.
http://www.crucial.com/systemscanner/index.aspx

A month or so ago he was using his computer when he said all of the sudden the speakers started only playing static, no other audio.  He checked to make sure the speakers weren't bad by using a pair of headphones and got the same static. I was just over there earlier and first did a system restore to around when he thought the PROBLEM started which didn't help.  I then updated his mobo drivers.  He has an Nvidia NForce 560M2NSLI board with integrated audio, but that didn't help either.  He is using Win XP Pro, also, in case anyone NEEDS to know.  I tried searching for a new audio driver but couldn't find anything.  Under his 'sounds and audio devices properties, his default sound playback default device is listed as "PnP Audio Device".  I have done pretty much everything I could think of, so now I need suggestions, because at this point I'm thinking he just needs to buy a sound card.  The only concern I have there is will a sound card CAUSE any conflicts with his mobo since it had onboard audio? any ERRORS in device manager?
Nothing related to audio, no.  There was one other one but I forgot to write it down.  I'll call him and get it.OK, the one that is in error is listed is under "network adapters" and says "nvidia nforce networking controller" Quote

his default sound playback default device is listed as "PnP Audio Device"

OK, the one that is in error is listed is under "network adapters" and says "nvidia nforce networking controller"

Hi
i am a new member here.. plz help me..

i am a small server engg.(Admin also), with my little salary i never think about high syste, config.. but last few days i save some money and ready to upgrade my DUAL core Intel system to quad core system.. (so need help)

my old computer have 500Gb segate Sata HDD, Asrock 945 Board, 9500Gt NVIDIA, 3GB DDR2ram and 450w Smps.. only i have to update CPU, Motherboard, Ram.

i am not a extreme gamer. so i want one time investment and get powerful sys.

plz guide me which one to choose..

1.Cpu (Intel Quad core q9650 , q9550 / Amd Phenom X4 965, 955)
2.DDR2 ram (i dont have budget to buy DDR3)
3.Motherboard u tell me..

help me ..
Quote from: EVEN.raghu on February 08, 2010, 09:12:18 AM

with my little salary ... ready to upgrade my dual core Intel system to quad core system.. (so need help)

my old computer have 500Gb segate Sata HDD, Asrock 945 Board, 9500Gt Nvidia, 3GB DDR2ram and 450w Smps.. only i have to update CPU, Motherboard, Ram.

i am not a extreme gamer. so i want one time investment and get powerful sys.

plz guide me which one to choose..

1.Cpu (Intel Quad core q9650 , q9550 / Amd Phenom X4 965, 955)
2.DDR2 ram (i dont have budget to buy DDR3)
3.Motherboard u tell me..

bcz my friends say to upgrade.

bcz my friends say to upgrade.

1.Cpu (Intel Quad core q9650 , q9550 / Amd Phenom X4 965, 955)

I Recommend You The Highlighted One

bcz my friends say to upgrade.

Ok I belive this topic should go under hardware, if I am wrong please advise me of where it should go.

I have two ISSUES with my audio card I need help with
1st) My built in SPEAKERS are my Default sound source, when I plug head phones into the head phone jack or a HDMI cable into the HDMI port on the computer and my HDTV the computer will not automatically switch to using that sound option, I have to OPEN up Control Panel>Sound and change the default sound option to the sound type I want to use, is there a way I can set this to automatically switch when I plug in a cable to another output?

2nd) When I am playing a game or watching a video online using my built in speakers as my Default sound source then I decide to plug in a pair of head phones the sound will not switch, it will only play through the built in spekers, I have to close the program, go to Control Panel>Sound change my Default sound source to head phones then restart the game or movie. I do believe these PROBLEMS are basically the same.

I have a Gateway laptop
Vista 32-bit OS
NVIDIA GeForce 9800M GTS video card
I could not find the actual name of the sound card in DEVICE Manager so if this is needed please advise me on howto get this information

Thanksyou can go here http://majorgeeks.com/download.php?det=4181 and download a free Everest scanner that will tell you the name etc of everything on your computer.truenorthI used the software you suggested and this is the resultes:

I Clicked The MULTIMEDIA Tab:

Under Windows Audio:
midi-out.0          Microsoft GS Wavetable Synth
mixer.0               Speakers (High Definition Audio
mixer.1               Digital Output Device (SPDIF) (
mixer.2               Digital Output Device (HDMI)
mixer.3               Microphone (High Definition Aud
mixer.4               Microphone (High Definition Aud
wave-in.0           Microphone (High Definition Aud
wave-in.1           Microphone (High Definition Aud
wave-out.0         Speakers (High Definition Audio
wave-out.1         Digital Output Device (SPDIF) (
wave-out.2         Digital Output Device (HDMI)
Under PCI/PnP Audio:
High Definition Audio Controller (NoDB)           Type: PCI

Hello all,

Today I was bored and streaming the web when my mouse stopped working. It's laser light was still glowing. I restarted my pc and still nothing. I checked and it turns out it was the PCI simple communications Controller driver had been uninstalled. So I come out here and download the driver, take it back into my room and my keyboard was off. So I restarted again and since I have a system password, I am stuck at the password screen with a keyboard error. I have no way in. Borrow or buy a PS2 keyboard...
BTW the device you MENTIONED driver is part of Windows and runs as a Service...
When you get the keyboard you should go to Start/Run and type in sfc /scannow...
Have your Windows CD handy as it will ask for it.I have a ps2 keyboard, however my motherboard has no ps2 connection capabilitiesPS2 to USB adapters are readily AVAILABLE. But if you have access to another USB keyboard that should be tried.truenorthAre you able to boot to SAFE MODE ? ?

Okay, so I looked around on the forum and couldn't really find an answer to my question, so here goes.
I got an external hard drive this Christmas, and have not had any use of it, until recently. It just so happens that it has FAT32 as format, and restricts larger files, which is really annoying seeing as I WOULD like to move games most of the time, and they are way bigger than the restriction, 2 Gb I think it is.
So besides the fact that I am a huge retard for not LOOKING into this earlier, any help would be appreciated.

The question: Is there any way to reformat, to another system that allows bigger files, and if so, how?
FAT32 will allow a maximum of 4GB.

FAT16 volumes larger than 2GB are not accessible from computers running Microsoft Windows Millennium Edition (Me), Windows 98, Windows 95, or MS-DOS. The size LIMIT for FAT16 volumes in these operating systems is 2 GB.

If your harddrive is larger than these, it would normally use NTFS format.

Move your data you wish to keep off the hard drive to another as formatting will lose all data.

Depending on your Operating System, go to 'My COMPUTER', right-click the hard drive and click format. Select NTFS format. Allocation Unit Size will normally be 4096 for that. Untick 'Quick Format' if selected and then format and wait.Alright, thank you

Ok so I am trying to load a game and it says: "Failed to enumerate a directx 9 compatible card"   I have an ATI 4850 with Direct 10c, but on dxdiag it says I have 11c.   How can I get rid of 11c, and make my card compatible? Where is this game from ? ?
DX10 and higher all support DX9 so either it's the game or a hardware setting... Quote from: PATIO on February 28, 2010, 06:44:23 AM

Where is this game from ? ?
DX10 and higher all support DX9 so either it's the game or a hardware setting...

I THink He Uses The "KM" Software's DX 10 - That Have The Same Problem (Its Fake DX10)

I have numerous single- and double-sided old 5.25" floppy disks which relate to DOS-based programs I wrote many years ago, and STILL use today.  I would like to access these disks (for source code, compilers, linkers, batch files, etc.) in order to MAKE modifications to the programs.  I have determined that the drives are still available from various sources, and some even have the necessary ribbon cables included.   I have not determined, however, whether those floppy drive ribbon (or data) cables will connect to motherboards in use on XP based machines (machines which range in AGE from perhaps three to ten years old).  Before I purchase the drive, I'd like to get a definitive answer to this question. 

So - if any of you out there have long memories, or better YET, recent related experience, and can provide an answer to this question, it would be very helpful to me.  If I remember correctly, the old floppy drives had connections from the drives which resemble PCI adapter board connections, rather than pin connections.  My hope is that the older ribbon cables use the same pin connections to the motherboard as more current 3.5" floppy drives.  Maybe there's even a way to rig an EXTERNAL version of a 5.25" drive to work just long enough for me to convert the old disks to CDs.

Thanks very much.You can put both 5.25 and 5.6 drives on the same cable.

Also,  external adapter for floppy to USB  could work.It should work fine, but that doesn't really mean it will. Try to find the newest of your 5.25" floppy drives, that's about the only advice I can say for sure.Personally, I've always had problems with the 5.6" drives. Quote from: rthompson80819 on February 06, 2010, 02:37:55 PM

Personally, I've always had problems with the 5.6" drives.

Thanks to those who have posted.  I'm not at all familiar with 5.6" drives, and I'm almost certain that my research hasn't identified any type of adapter to convert an internal 5.25" floppy drive to USB power.  If Geek-9pm has additional info or details on this, please post it here.

Thanks again.

So for example, in msn when you are backspacing whatever text you have, by the time it's done a sound affect would pop. I use to have it, but a few days ago it just DISAPPEARED and it switched to my main machine beeping. Another case is when there's a warning sound, like a pop up if an error occurred Much like the sound from winrar, when you CANCEL file from extracting, i also get that annoying beep from my machine. Another example is in firefox when I use the "find" option and type in letters, if it doesn't find anything it'll start beeping where before it was sound from my speakers and now it's from the machine >: (

 what exactly is up with this ? I didn't have this issue a few weeks back.
I scanned for both virus and spyware, i'm clear of both.... what's going on?Could it be that you've accidentally turned on Sticky Keys?

Here's an explanation:

To turn on StickyKeys
StickyKeys is designed for people who have difficulty holding down two or more keys SIMULTANEOUSLY. When a shortcut REQUIRES a key combination, such as CTRL+P, StickyKeys will enable you to press a modifier key (CTRL, ALT, or SHIFT), or the Windows logo key (), and have it remain active until another key is pressed.

Open Accessibility Options.
On the Keyboard tab, under StickyKeys, select the Use StickyKeys check box.
To turn off StickyKeys, clear the Use StickyKeys check box.

 Notes

To open Accessibility Options, click Start, point to SETTINGS, click Control Panel, and then double-click Accessibility Options.
If the Use shortcut check box in the Settings for StickyKeys dialog box is selected, you can turn StickyKeys on or off by pressing the SHIFT key five times.
For more information on changing StickyKeys options, click Related Topics.
Related Topics


Alan <><

I was operating Itunes on my DELL Desk Top when all the sudden the screen went black and the music stopped.  I rebooted the computer and it looked as if it reboots but I cant tell because nothing is on the screen.  The green hard drive LIGHTS appeared to be flickering as it normally does but nothing is showing on the monitor.  The monitor appears to still work with it's power light on but no input is coming from the computer.  I don't think it is the monitor because the music stopped when the incident happened. I don't know if this is a hard drive failure or something to do with a power failure from inside the desk top.  any ideas of what would the problem be?  Of course a computer shop will charge me $120 to just look at it.  The Desk top is 7 years old and i guess i have to buy a new one but I need my data from the hard drive.
Any suggestions is appreciated!  Thank you!!!When you reboot the computer, does it show anything at all on the screen?
Does the bios version appear?

If you can find another monitor to swap in there temporarily and it works, you can rule out the computer itself being the problem.


Also, post the make/model of the computer..Thank you for the reply!!

I havent TRIED a new monitor yet.  I figured since the sound went out too, the problem is beyond monitor.
After I reboot it, I can see the power lights and hard drive active lights on the tower working normally, the keyboard lights work as well but nothing coming on the monitor at all.  I have a 17" viewsonic monitor and it displays a message saying no signal detected.  No sound during rebooting either.  I'm scratching my head on this one!  I'm hoping that the problem is not hard drive failure since I don't have all my data backed up

The computer is: DELL DIMENSION 4550 bought in 2003

Thanx!Another thing we can try is booting off of your Windows XP installation disc..
If you can see information on the screen when booting off the disc, then that means your monitor is ok, and you can proceed to troubleshooting other components.

Most systems, by default, are set to boot from the optical drive, so if you place your installation disc into the computer and restart it should boot off the disc..

In the mean time, you may want to take your hard drive out and add it as a slave drive to another computer... Boot up the computer and copy your important files from the hard drive over to a thumb drive or something..

Quick tutorial on "slaving" a hard drive..

http://freepctech.com/pc/001/installing_ide_devices.shtml
From your SECOND post:

Quote from: shark1080 on February 21, 2010, 02:44:44 PM

nothing coming on the monitor at all. 

From your second post:

I don't know why it didn't hit me the first time I read this..  If you see nothing on the monitor, then you first need to try another monitor...  If the bios version, at least, is not showing up, then that has nothing to do with your hard drive...  Either the monitor is broke, or your onboard video/card, or other motherboard component has gone out...

It could also be the monitor cable...

Or, the power supply.

maybe try a new graphics card. sometimes after so much use the graphics card get bad memory (craps out). There is no way to fix the card, but just to replace it.

I'm trying to find the CHECKBOX to toggle on / off the option to REDUCE power to the video CARD while it's / you're idle. I found this thing just the other day but now for the life of me I can't. Didn't find it in Device Manager or the ADVANCED button in the last tab under Display OPTIONS. Any help greatly appreciated.Without more info we'd be guessing at best...

so i bought a new comp. asus motherboard and a intel dual core processor.

Before I cleared out my old computer, I had two hard drives and put everything that i needed onto one and cleared out the other so i can sell it. When i tried to connect the old hard drive onto the new computer as a slave it wouldnt TURN on at all.

any help would be awesome. please save my computer!

hope i didnt fry the motherboard.What comes up?

Does it say 'No Boot Detected' or just beep at you? If it beeps check your motherboard manual for the Computer POST / beep codes. For example one long and one short beep, might be a Motherboard issue.

So you have a brand new hard drive in there on master and the SECOND old hard drive as slave?
I assume they are both IDE hard drives.
Make sure the ribbon cable and the power cable for each hard drive are correctly and fully connected.

If it's a brand new blank hard drive you will have to install the operating system onto using the disc.what happens if you remove the second drive?Have you changed the JUMPER from Master to Slave?.I suspect he is trying to boot to the old drive...this is rarely successful... Quote from: patio on February 28, 2010, 04:52:31 PM

I suspect he is trying to boot to the old drive...this is rarely successful...

you must install an operating system to the new hardrive u've buy..and then check the jumper..master and slave..is it ide cable both?..just check..check and check take your time

I have some discs from when I reformatted my desktop a few months ago. There a few discs with a variety of things on them: music, pictures, home movies, word/excel/adobe documents. At first only the ONE with documents and movies on it would say it was empty when put in the computer. Now one the music discs and the photo DISC also say they are empty. I THOUGHT all was lost but when I put them in the ps3 they work just fine. I want to move the files off these discs and put them on my NEW laptop (and probably burn them to new discs). But how do I get them to show up on my computer? They were burned on desktop with Windows Vista and Nero and I'm trying to put them on a laptop with Windows 7 and Roxio.  Sounds like the burn session was not finalised on those CD's...
ISOBuster can read these and EXTRACT the info to your HDD but i don't believe it is FREE as it once was...Thanks. I did actually buy isobuster ($30) and it worked!!

Hello this is my first post...

When playing some games (eg Counter Strike) no problem
When playing games like (Test Drive Unlimited - Pro Evo Soccer) red artifacts fill my screen after 20 or so minutes of play

I have the Graphics Card called "XFX nVidia 8800 GT Alpha Dog edition 640MB"

I have checked that the following are NOT the problem

- Power Supply
- Overheating
- Drivers ( I have the latest official XFX )
- MEMORY or Clock

Can anyone help?  What have you done to conclude that the power supply or overheating isn't the issue? It certainly sounds like a problem with one of the two, if not both.

How old is the 8800 GT? It may not be overheating, but could be coming to the end of its life. Same with the power supply.

Please post the specs of the PC.1. Overheating : NO (72C While playing Test-Drive Unlimited 1280x1024 etc)

2. End of Life : NO (bought 2 years ago - symptoms*artifacts since I bought it)

3. Power Supply : Not sure - I'll check and write

4. Specs : I'll write soon

5. BIOS version: 62.92.16.00.86MY PC SPECS

CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo 6600
VGA: XFX 8800 GT Alpha Dog 640MB - 192.61 Driver
Memory: 2 x 1 GB 667 Kingston
OS: Windows XP x32 Professional
PSU: HEC 550
Mainboard: Gigabyte 965P S3 rev 3.3

please help me... IM REALLY ANGRY WITH MY 8800GT!
If you've eliminated all those as the issue then all it could be is hardware failure on the part of the video card.

Quote

(bought 2 years ago - symptoms*artifacts since I bought it)

HI,
 I have a motherboard intel g945 gcpe ( link )
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3172645&csid=ITD&body=MAIN#detailspecs

I want to know compatibility of video card ( link )
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814133245&cm_re=GeForce_8400_GS_512mb-_-14-133-245-_-Product

If it is not compatible then advise me .Any video card that fits in a REGULAR PCI slot will RUN on that board...
All you have to decide is price/performance...That card will work with that motherboard. Neither one is PCI Express 2.0, so there wouldn't be any bottleneck there.  

Is there a reason you CHOSE the Low Profile Ready VERSION?

When I am shopping for motherboards on Newegg I keep seeing the letters (O.C) behind some of the RAM FREQUENCIES. What does the O.C. stand for?Over CLOCKED ?In order to reach those particular TIMINGS you have to OVERCLOCK?

e.g.    800------>1066 o.c.

For some odd reason, some of my Word DOCUMENTS won't print; some do. I've even tried pasting the doc to an email to myself and PRINTING it. It still won't work. Any suggestions? Did this just START? If so, what changed since the LAST time everything WORKED properly (new hw, sw, driver update, etc)? Is there anything differentiating the docs that will not print from those that do (extension, location, content, etc)?

I RECEIVED an old CPU from a friend, which is functioning WELL except a noisy CPU fan.
So I took out the fan (with HEAT sink) and clean it up, and put it back.
Now, when I start the computer, it'll turn off in about 5 SECONDS without any beep code.
Any idea?Sounds like THERMAL paste was not applied properly...

Clik Here...

Alright, so I am currently working at my college's lab trying to figure out what exactly is the cause of this blade's issues. It was donated to us (private college) and whomever donated to us said they wiped all data from the hard drives and we could do with it what we wanted to. I attempted to put Red Hat 9 on it to use it as a test server for some LABS for students but it froze multiple times, no luck. Decided to TRY and put Windows Server 2003 on it and it froze, once again no luck. I ran Memtest86 to see if it would diagnose anything and sure enough it did, within the first three seconds the test froze saying unexpected interrupt - halting CPU0.

Okay, I had four sticks of 512MB ECC RAM in the blade, tried it with only two, and I guess the WAY the motherboard works, you can only boot the server if you have a stick of RAM in either DIMM1 and DIMM2 or DIMM3 and DIMM4 (obviously you can have all four slots filled). Otherwise POST beeps out 'memory error!' I have done MANY tests trying to diagnose if ONE stick will make a difference or not, below are some of the results I've gotten from the tests. I divided a piece of paper into 4 slots and put a stick of RAM in each one to give it a number so I wouldn't lose track.

Stick 1 and Stick 2 in DIMM1 and DIMM2 (Respectively)
-Unexpected Interrupt - Halting CPU0 (Test #2 failed at 16% with four errors)

Stick 1 and Stick 2 in DIMM3 and DIMM4 (Respectively)
-Unexpected Interrupt - Halting CPU0 (Test #2 failed at 15% with two errors)

Stick 1 and Stick 3 in DIMM1 and DIMM2 (Respectively)
-Unexpected Interrupt - Halting CPU0 (Test #2 failed at 16% with four errors)

Stick 1 and Stick 3 in DIMM3 and DIMM4 (Respectively)
-Unexpected Interrupt - Halting CPU0 (Test #2 failed at 15% with two errors)

Etc... for Stick 1

Stick 2 and Stick 3 in DIMM1 and DIMM2 (Respectively)
-Unexpected Interrupt - Halting CPU0 (Test #2 failed at 16% with four errors)

Stick 2 and Stick 3 in DIMM3 and DIMM4 (Respectively)
-Unexpected Interrupt - Halting CPU0 (Test #2 failed at 16% with four errors)

Stick 2 and Stick 4 in DIMM1 and DIMM2 (Respectively)
-Unexpected Interrupt - Halting CPU0 (Test #2 failed at 16% with four errors)

Stick 2 and Stick 4 in DIMM3 and DIMM4 (Respectively)
-Unexpected Interrupt - Halting CPU0 (Test #2 failed at 16% with three errors)

Stick 3 and Stick 1 in DIMM1 and DIMM2 (Respectively)
-Unexpected Interrupt - Halting CPU0 (Test #2 failed at 15% with one error)


At first I thought it was something to do with the DIMM banks, the first few tests seemed that DIMM1 and DIMM2 would return fours errors and half at 16% and DIMM3 and DIMM4 would return two errors at 15%. At this point I am not sure what else to do as far as diagnosing this issue. I do not have any similar RAM sticks laying around. Any help on this is greatly appreciated.


Blade Specs:
Dell PowerEdge 1750
2GB (4x 512MB) 184-Pin ECC RAM
3x 74GB SCSI HD's
2.4GHz Intel Xeon ProcessorTry DIMM 1 and 3 first...
Then 2 and 4...
If this FAILS there is 1 or more bad sticks of RAM...
You will need to DLoad MemTest and run 1 stik at a time to find the culprit.
It should be run for approx 2 hours...

PS it would be helpful with the model # of this blade and the system it's in... Quote from: patio on February 24, 2010, 05:09:44 PM

Try DIMM 1 and 3 first...
Then 2 and 4...
If this fails there is 1 or more bad sticks of RAM...
You will need to DLoad MemTest and run 1 stik at a time to find the culprit.
It should be run for approx 2 hours...

PS it would be helpful with the model # of this blade and the system it's in...

Then you need to run MemTest on those RAM sticks...
Why not swap some out of the other blades as well to test ? ?
Other than that it sounds like that MBoard is fried...

Ya!

If MemTest shows ANY errors at all it is faulty RAM sticks...

I don't follow this logic at all...

A ) You are unable to boot with only 1 stik of RAM in this situation...

B ) You can't use more than 1 slot configuration currently and boot successfully...

Therefore it would take approx 96 runs of MemTest to determine the bad stick in a 2 stick 2 slot setup.

Why not test this RAM 1 stick at a time outside the blade server ? ?
Any desktop/laptop that takes that style/speed of RAM can be used...

This would only require 4 runs of MemTest at most.

...
Blade Specs:
Dell PowerEdge 1750
2GB (4x 512MB) 184-Pin ECC RAM
3x 74GB SCSI HD's
2.4GHz Intel Xeon Processor

Some info on my PC

BIOS
Award software; version F7


Corsair XMS3 6GB (3x2GB) DDR3 PC3-12800C9 (1600MHz) Tri-Channel

Gigabyte GA-MA790XT-UD4P (Socket AM3) PCI-Express DDR3 Motherboard

AMD Phenom II X3 Tri Core 720 Black Edition 2.80GHz (Socket AM3)

EVGA GeForce GTX 260 896MB GDDR3 PCI-Express GRAPHICS Card

Window 7 ultimate 64bit

Hi guys hoping someone could please aid me in some problems I am having in BIOS.
My RAM as far as I understand should be running at 1600mhz but it always shows to run at 1333mhz. My cpu clocks in at 2800ghz so that's fine.

My question would be is there anyone able to help me put in the right settings into my bios to get the ram/timing and voltage to run smoothly?

I have tried a few things myself by PUTTING the clock on the cpu to 3GHz (and at stock) then the memory to the 1600mhz.. the computer seems to run ok but in running applications I seem to get some freezes and bios lock ups. (I'm guessing I don't have the power right on the ram???)

Anybody familiar with this setup could you advice me what settings I could put in my bios (ideally I would like to run the cpu nearer 3gig, if this is a huge and high risk ill leave it) but the ram I just can't figure out how to get it to run on it what it should be.

I understand the risks INVOLVED and any advice given is to be used in my own discretion. any help at all on this would be very much appreciated

Woz Not sure if it makes a difference or not as im not up to date with RAM at the moment but that motherboard supports Dual Channel yet you have Tri Channel RAM.

Also is the RAM in the listed supported Memory document?

I know nothing about timing frequency with RAM so someone ELSE will have to help with that

not sure if this is a hardware problem...

i have a seagate 320gb HDD in FAT32, and when i tried to copy a 5 GB FILE into the drive, it tells me there is not enough space, even though there is nothing in the drive???Fat32 has a 4Gb file limit size. The EASIEST solution is to convert the drive or PARTITION to ntfs. Quote from: ALLAN on March 02, 2010, 06:13:08 AM

Fat32 has a 4Gb file limit size. The easiest solution is to convert the drive or partition to ntfs.

but i need to use it with Mac and PC for work. any other way to do this?

I'm not familiar with PC/Mac compatibility, but is there some reason an NTFS file system would be a problem?

Not sure if this is the correct forum for this issue or not.

I have an older Compaq Presairo that will randomly lose both the keyboard (Compaq)and mouse (Microsoft) at the same time, power goes out to both. They are both USB connections. I can switch from the ports on the front or back of the machine same thing. They may or may not come back on immediately when I switch. EVENTUALLY the power will come back on to both, again at the same time.

Any suggestions as to how to solve this problem?First question is have you tried another Keyboard and mouse.
And why not use the PS/2 keyboard and mouse?

You id it was an old machine. The USB interface on the motherboard may be near end of life.  That fact that both go out at the same time would indicate the USB interface on the motherboard is going. Usually one 'chip' controls four ports. Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 28, 2010, 08:53:12 PM

And why not use the PS/2 keyboard and mouse?

I have no problem finding PS2 keyboards and mice...

Heck even WallyWorld carries them...

Not mine.  Just bought a mouse there for a friend and the only type type they had was USB.

You mean a USB to PS/2 converter right?
Most USB keyboards and mice come with the converter. Every one I've ever bought has. They look like this:

I am getting ready to upgrade my computer that I built nearly 2 years ago.  Here is my current rig:

Gigabyte P35-DS3L
Intel E2180 2.0 Ghz
G.Skill 2x1 GB Ram DDR2
eVGA Geforce 7900 GT
Rosewill 550 Watt PSU(36 AMPS on 12v)
Windows XP Home Edition

I want to upgrade the CPU, ram, vid card, and OS.  Thinking of:

HD 4850 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161244
2 more gigs of ram - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231098
Intel Q9400 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115131
Windows 7 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116754

Anybody have any thoughts or ideas about these upgrade items?
Actually, decided to go with the hd 5770 instead of hd4850.  Get MSI Hawk HD 5770.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127490Make sure that MBoard will run the Q9400...
Just because it's the same Socket 775 there are no guarantees unless you check 1st...It is supported.  The mb supports all Intel cpus upto and including the Core 2 Extremes.  It doesn't support any of the i3, i5, or i7s.

All these upgrades come in at around $525.  Can anybody think of a better setup for the same amount of money?A brand new build...
i7 CPU + Gigabyte MBoard and use existing RAM would be under that #...
Same vid card...
You can add more RAM as funds increase...But that would leave with a very outdated video card and the bare minimum ram.  The reason I am upgrading is so that I can run all the games out there at reasonably high settings.No i actually suggested ...new board...i7 CPU...... the vid card you settled on ...and use your existing RAM
Sorry if that was not clear.
You'ld still be under your upgrade budget but be well ahead of the game.
You can add RAM as you go... Quote from: patio on March 02, 2010, 11:26:47 AM

No i actually suggested ...new board...i7 CPU...... the vid card you settled on ...and use your existing RAM
Sorry if that was not clear.
You'ld still be under your upgrade budget but be well ahead of the game.
You can add RAM as you go...

Took my car to the shop and found out that I need around $400 of work.  Well the word "need" is a little misleading.  I am at 80,000 miles and all of the car's fluids need to be replaced, brake pads need replacement, and my radiator, transmission, and engine all need to be flushed out.

Going off topic but:Your engine needs "flushed"?  I understand radiator flushing and replacing trans fluid in an automatic trans but I don't know what an engine flush is.  Do you?  Maybe you should get a second opinion on this stuff. 

Ever do any mechanical work yourself?  I recall an uncle (now deceased) saying changing brake pads was a fairly easy job.  I finally decided to try it about 6 months ago.  The brake pads for my car only cost about $20 at Advance Auto Parts.  Doing it yourself can definitely save money if you have some mechanical aptitude, some tools, and are willing to delve into it.   

The Internet can be helpful.  Tutorials or guides for some of these automotive maintenance and repair tasks can be found via Google searches and videos for many tasks can be found on YouTube.com.

Volume C: in this computer is a 30G. Windows reports it at around 18, and the BIOS reports is as 20020 MB. All of the Googling I've done is for
-Wrong size reported while installing hard drive
-Wrong partition size (which I read as applying to a partitioned drive)
-Wrong size SHOWN only in Windows Explorer

None of these apply to me. There are no "extenuating circumstances" besides the possibly of a setting or registry key or something, and the wrong size applies all over. The paging file is about 2 gigs so that is probably why the BIO size DIFFERS from Windows' reported size.

With a 30G hard drive it is important to have the correct size reported. Can somebody help me? Thanks.If I REMEMBER right it    could have something to do with all the system restore images on the computer.  Can someone out there verify that?  My suggestion would be to turn off SR but DON'T do that until someone can follow up.

Alan <><  If you're talking about available space then yes, the likely culprit is System Restore. Restore points utilize a LOT of space. You can limit the space allocated to System Restore (System Properties - System Restore Tab. You can immediately regain all that space by disabling System Restore (NOTE: all restore points will be immediately deleted). In my opinion, two better options are ERUNT for registry backup and any Disk Imaging SOFTWARE for full backup and protection.if your talking about total space TAKE a trip to disk management and note what that says about the drive partitions.Thanks Allan & BC   

Alan <><  Quote from: ale52 on March 02, 2010, 11:05:15 AM

Thanks Allan & BC   


Alan <>< 

Hi to all ,
i am new memeber of this forum
 
here iam facing a little problem that is

the smart IT guys turn off USB ports on domain computers via an Active Directory Group Policy. This is for many reasons but the biggest reason is to stop the ABILITY of uploading a virus (either purposely or accidentally)from a USB flash drive.

is thier any option to UNBLOCK the USB PORT cleverly 

note : i dont have administrator rights

 
Yes. Contact your company IT department and ask them to do it for you. After all, it's their COMPUTER, not yours.

Okay. I'm not quite sure what happened between the time you FORMATTED and the next problem arose, but now it sounds like either a bad display, bad video card, or bad connection. Check all cables to and from the display and computer. If there is STILL no image on the display, either try a different display or try this display on a different computer. Let's figure out why you're not GETTING any video, then we'll get Windows 7 installed.OK well strange as it may sound the comp turned on and now Im in the BIOS menuAgain, make sure the dvid is the first boot device. If it is, DO NOT MAKE ANY OTHER CHANGES IN BIOS. Insert the Windows 7 DVD and boot to it and choose the repair options.If he's formatted the HDD he isn't gonna be able to repair anything.Yeah, forgot Windows 7 isn't really installed - thanks.... Just boot to the Windows 7 DVD and start the install routine.ok so now I was in process of installing WIN7 and it restarted once and then continued install. on the second restart the computer restarted and is doing the same thing as before. (comp running but not booting, getting blank screen)1) Check that the display is good (switch it with a different system)
2) Start the install again. This time, when it starts delete and recreate any partitions, then format, then begin the installation.Sorry for the delay on response. Its all up and running now. I think my problem is a bad DVD drive because even now its working intermittently. Thanks for all the help!!You're welcome and thanks for posting back. Glad you're up and running

Hi, I have a Foxconn P4M9007MB 8RS2H mobo, with a CeleronD 3.33ghz Cedar Mill CPU. I decided to upgrade to a Dual Core, so went to the Foxconn site to check for compatibility etc. I plumped fot the Pentium  E6600, as the bios codes were the same on their list. I purchased the CPU & installed expecting it to work, which it did not. Fans run etc, but no video (or bios page). I noticed that it was advertised as 3.06 ghz & not 2.40 as listed at F/conn site. Further checks at Intel showed that it is a new CPU (Q1-2010) so thus will not be listed at F/conn, yes? Why would Intel SELL two CPUs with the same number ie E6600 yet different specs? Is there any way round this, or am I well and truly shafted? Any help/suggestions will be gladly wecomed. AlexmaThree E6600's
http://processorfinder.intel.com/List.aspx?ParentRadio=All&ProcFam=0&SearchKey=E6600

I would THINK they are all interchangeable, however, the CeleronD 3.33ghz Cedar Mill CPU is entirely different.  Did you reset the BIOS PRIOR to powerup?No I did not,  as I am wary about altering bios, which is why I checked out  Bois versions on F/conn's website first.Any beeps from the BIOS to give the error code?

When he says reset the BIOS he means on the MoBo.

Either take the battery out turn the system on and turn it off, replace battery. Or if the MoBo has it use the jumper selector.I reinstalled the Celeron D and all worked OK. The board has a CLR_CMOS jumper. I will refit the E6600, clear CMOS (with pwr cable removed) then try a reboot, and report back tomorrow. Thanks to all.  I did as asked (cleared CMOS) with the same result ie nothing, fans came on hdd/dvd drive noise, no Bios beeps. Has anyone any other suggestions?. I am assuming I will not be able to return this (to EB*yer) as it has been opened/unsealed. So, the only way forward (I can see) is to buy a mobo to suit said CPU. This CPU appears not to be listed in any of the major manufacturers websites as yet, so how can I find one? Any suggestions please. AlexmaI believe I figured out the difference among the Intel processors.  What you purchased is a Dual-Core, not a Core™2 Duo.  Who was the marketing genius at Intel that dreamed up that NOMENCLATURE?
Comp. Commando, I never did say it was a 'Core 2 Duo'! Here are the 'Box' details for it. Pentium Processor E6600. Frequency 3.06Ghz. Intel VT. FSB 1066Mhz. Socket LGA775. Cache 2mb. PCG 06. Version E82346-001. S/Spec SLGUG. Costa Rica. Product Code BX8057-IE6600. I have been trawling through various Mobo Manufacturer websites and seem to have found one that fits the bill at reasonable cost. It is a Gigabyte GA-G31M-ES2l iG31. I am assuming that 'G31' is the chipset number' but not sure if this is compatible with the CPU. Would one of you fine GENTLEMEN check my findings and verify that I am correct. Of course I am open to all suggestions offered. Best wishes, Alexma Quote from: alexma on March 03, 2010, 11:51:42 AM

Comp. Commando, I never did say it was a 'Core 2 Duo'! Here are the 'Box' details for it. Pentium Processor E6600. Frequency 3.06Ghz. Intel VT. FSB 1066Mhz. Socket LGA775. Cache 2mb. PCG 06. Version E82346-001. S/Spec SLGUG. Costa Rica. Product Code BX8057-IE6600. I have been trawling through various Mobo Manufacturer websites and seem to have found one that fits the bill at reasonable cost. It is a Gigabyte GA-G31M-ES2l iG31. I am assuming that 'G31' is the chipset number' but not sure if this is compatible with the CPU. Would one of you fine gentlemen check my findings and verify that I am correct. Of course I am open to all suggestions offered. Best wishes, Alexma

I am using windows vista SP2, I have AT&T high SPEED internet. (The $20 service they have)

1. I bought a trendnet modem/router model TEW-435BRM. NOTE: this product comes with ADSL modem and a router built into one box (So I only need the Trendnet box to get modem capability and router capability without needing additional hardware

2. It was working fine for 3 MONTHS, then all of sudden it stopped working. Assumed ISP was having issues, since no internet connection for 5 days and resetup of modem after pressing reset button was useless.

3. Contacted, AT&T, they sent a techsupport guy to my house, and he verified ISP connection was perfectly fine. (He replaced the trendnet modem in question with his own test modem and was ONLINE in 1 MIN and he went to www.google.com successfully to prove that the trendnet modem/router was the source of why I had nonworking internet connection to my computer)

4. contacted Trendnet Tech support, they get me a new replacement modem of same model, but I tested and same problem as before and error message said PPPoe server not found, please check your internet connection type.

5. I go buy a D-Link modem and connected to my computer and was online within 1 min, and the D-Link modem still works right now, which is how I'm connecting to AT&T service at the moment. D-Link modem works standalone or if I want to connect to internet with a standalone router bridged to D-Link modem, it's fine. Both will WORK.

6. Trendnet modem still does not want to connect. Trendnet has sent me 2 more replacement modems but all end up not working, with PPPoe server error and internet light not on indicating modem is not "seeing" internet connection.

Any idea why trendnet modem/router will not see AT&T internet connection, while my D-Link connected via a linksys BESFX41 router will work? I already spent $$ on the trendnet product, I can't return it back to Fry's Electronics and trendnet tech support hasn't solved the problem! 

NOTE: I get on the internet via PPPoe, I have a login name and password for it, so that is no problem.

Hello I run Windows XP. Last night I was running out of room on C and did a COMPRESSION. After that I shut off the computer. This morning I see this message when I turn on the computer:
 Please update the display program and driver. Then another message comes that says: The grahpic card in use does not support gamma adjustment or the gamma adjustmnet values current in use cannot be suported by the graphic card. I use Expert Vision 6.1
  ALSO last night my son downloaded some movies. Can I just do a system restore and go back to where things were working well?  Would that help? How would I do that?
  Also, today my fan is running on high, it usualy isn't this loud.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!No idea what you've done here.

Sure you can try a System Restore. If that doesn't work re-install the GFX card drivers.

There isn't much point of compressing files on the C:\ as they still take up space and when need to be used have to be uncompressed.

If you don't use them, delete them.Thanks! I got it fixed. Apparently when I did the compression or something, the graphic card stopped working. We REINSTALLED it and everything is fine. Thanks!You MAY have compressed the GFX card software files :P.

For the 2 weeks i was WAITING for my HDD my computer fell.. On it's SIDE (wooden floor). I knew it was gona do some damage and i found out what damage it did.. Not exactly though.

Once i installed the HDD i went to start up my computer for the first time since the fall.  When i started the computer up there was a loud annoying continous beep / tone.

I've tried replugging all the wires in the computer, checking to see if my processor was still in place,  and looked up beep codes.

I found that a long continous one was an Over heating.. Which doesn't make any since after i just started up the computer at room temperature.

I have no clue what's going on and i came to you guys for help / more infornmation.  I'll be ontop of this topic every second i can get.

Thanks,
MattMany aspects of overheating are related to non functioning fans (but not all). A wooden floor is a very hard surface to impact EVEN from only a few feet. The fact that your computer is in a room temperature environment is far less a consideration than what the temperature inside the computer or some components of the computer hardware such as the CPU. As a start i would open one side of the tower and observe the fans when you 1st turn the power on. You may see one (or more) that aren't turning. You can also try while you have the side open to direct a house fan into the open side and see if it will allow the computer to BOOT. But you are quite right there is likely damage. We hope it is minimal.truenorth
P.S. As far as the fans are concerned don't forget the one inside the power supply cage--which you will need to observe through the screening at the rear of the tower.One thing to remember is that NO (correct me if I'm wrong) Motherboard Will give you a beep code after the first code.
What i'm meaning is the computer, when you boot your OS, will only beep one code rather than all of the issues your computer has from the damage.

From what you've described your motherboard most likely has taken damage from the fall and/or your hardware also.

Boot straight into safe mode or if you can't make it that far, try booting from your OS INSTALLATION disc.

If that fails buy some new heatsinks or fans?
Since your beep code indicates overheating.
Also have you overclocked your PC at any point?At this point i would not recommend buying anything until you can advance your knowledge as to WHAT is damaged and needs replacement.truenorthTo gain that knowledge of what is wrong,
try not to be a hero and instead, take it into your nearest computer repair store.

When i turm my computer on i get this message;  "Disable or uninstall any anti-virus, disk defrag, or back up utilities.  Check HARD drive configuration and ches for any updated drives.  Run chkdsk/f to check for hard drive corruption and then restart your computer"

I can't get it to do anything, it OPENS with above message.
Any suggestions?






At what point does the message appear, after turning on the computer?

Does it happen in Safe Mode?

Restart the computer, tap F8 until you see Advanced Boot Options... Select SAFE MODE

When it boots up, note whether the problem is corrected or not..It does the same thing in safe mode.
It begins with " a problem has been detedtted and windows has been shut down to prevent damage to your computer."What's the make/model of the computer?

What operating system is installed?Dell Demension 5150C
Wimdows xpOn another computer, download Windows XP Recovery Console from here:

http://thecomputerparamedic.com/files/rc.iso

Download and install Image Burn, select "burn image to disc"..
to burn the .iso file to the disc.

Put the disk into your problem computer and boot off the disc.. 

Use the tutorial HERE if you're unsure...

Use this command when you're at the prompt in Recovery Console:

chkdsk /f

After it runs, remove the disk and see if problem is corrected..
I will try.  I may have to get on a different computer.
ThanksThat's what I said..  Use another computer to download the .iso file and burn it to disc..   Then take the disc over to the problem computer, and boot off the disc..    You might have to enter the computer's bios settings to change the boot order, but try booting off the disc first and see what happens..btw..   You might have Recovery Console on your Dell installation disc, but not all OEM discs have it..       At the right menu, you would select "R", to boot up the recovery console (whether or not you download it)What is different between the LAST time the system started properly and the first time it did not (new HW, sw, error, virus, etc)?No difference.  Until i got  the above messages.Okay. As a first step you want to boot to the Recovery Console as described above and run chkdsk /rI will have to check on that when in get home.
Thanks