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Hello. For a while now, I have been experiencing problems with my printer. On any random day, it will print FINE. On other days, if I press print, it brings up a box that say "Communication Not Available." I feel like the problem could be with the USB ports in the back of my desktop PC. They have been acting up a lot for a long time now. So please, any help will be appreciated. Please don't automatically tell me to get a new printer or a new PC. I would like to explore all possible options before I buy ANYTHING. Thanks in advance!
Tried different USB port?

Are you doing anything in particular when it doesnt WORK? Some PROGRAM u could be running that could interrupt the printer?I have tried several USB ports. I am not doing anything differently. Also, I would like to add that I have the printer set up on my home network, and when I print from a different computer on the network, it works every time.Also, I tried printing a document about two days ago, and it just randomly printed when I started up my computer. Any suggestions?What model is the printer? My Canon Pixima 620 doesn't like my laptop printing. Says Bi-directional support must be enabled which it is.

It then gives an error, not sure what as I'm on the BUS on the way home, but even though it says it couldn't print and failed it still prints it.

Printer is a network printer over wireless.I have a Dell All-In-One 926 printer. My printer doesn't like my desktop printing, but it seems to allow the laptop to print.Did u have to install the printer through software that came with it or did u just go to Add Printer on both machines?I installed the printer on the desktop (where all the problems are), then i just went to "Add Printer" and added it on the laptop.

Hey guys, some of you may remember me!

Anyway, I'm back and I have a new question!

Alright, so I'm getting a new computer, and my MAX budget is $550 USD.

I want to get a computer for 2 things.

1. I want to be able to play games online without having lag. Games like Face of Mankind, GTA: SA/SA:MP, maybe Counterstrike...etc. Without being laggy all the time online cause my computer cant keep up. Aswell as have 3 or 4 programs like ventrilo and others working under my game simletaneously.

2. I also make videos, I'm a film producer so I need my computer to be able to handle my video production and with great speed.

All this, for a max of $550 USD.

This guy at the computer shop locally said that he'll put it together for us if we buy the parts. So I need to know, what parts can I get that are best quality for cheap enough price so I can fit my budget and still do everything I want it to do.

Can someone just list them so I can write it down.

Note: I want 2 GB of Ram. But I want it in 2 seperate slots so It works better then have 2GB in one slot. 1 GB in 1 slot, 1 GB in another. If it matters... Quote from: WillNeedsHelpFast on March 07, 2010, 07:43:20 PM

Note: I want 2 GB of Ram. But I want it in 2 seperate slots so It works better then have 2GB in one slot. 1 GB in 1 slot, 1 GB in another. If it matters...

Can you list the names specifically?

Alright, so I'm getting a new computer, and my MAX budget is $550 USD.

I want to get a computer for 2 things.

1. I want to be able to play games online without having lag. Games like Face of Mankind, GTA: SA/SA:MP, maybe Counterstrike...etc. Without being laggy all the time online cause my computer cant keep up. Aswell as have 3 or 4 programs like ventrilo and others working under my game simletaneously.

2. I also make videos, I'm a film producer so I need my computer to be able to handle my video production and with great speed.

I would suggest starting with something that you could add to little by little as your budget allows.

Hey,I want a beach house in Malibu for $30,000.  For $550 you can get a machine that most people would be happy with, but it's no where near the top of the line for gaming machines or video production.  Your are going to have to make some trade offs or increase your budget.

I would suggest starting with something that you could add to little by little as your budget allows.

Some high end video game and video editing machines run from $3,000 to $10,000, and if you are talking professional machines, a whole lot more.

do they sell computer mics?

Some high end video game and video editing machines run from $3,000 to $10,000, and if you are talking professional machines, a whole lot more.

My computer always starts with a Safe mode without any reaon i.e. also if it is shut down properly.
In addition as my keyboard is having USB PORT, keyboard is not detected in a safe mode, so i have to wait for the WHOLE 30 seconds at all the time i star my computer ?
So PLEASE help me regarding solving this problem !!
How to get rid of this problem of Safe mode SCREEN with out any reason.When your computer is booted.  Click Start> RUN

type:  msconfig

click OK

On the "general" tab, click on the "normal start up" bubble, click APPLY, ok, then restart..  It should boot normal now

Hello and thank you for looking at my problem.

I have a friends computer that he wants me to try to make it faster.

The computer takes ages to start up and load all the programs and be ready to use.

Then when he gets on the net, the computer runs so slow, that I can go and boil a kettle and make the coffee before it is ready to look at google to do a search.

Can someone give me a hand please to see if we can speed it up a bit?

(Should be ready by now Hopefully)... YEP up and running.

Its an Intel Pentium(R)4 CPU 2.00 GHz, 2.02 GHz with a massive 256MB of RAM. Running XP Home Edition 2002, SP3.
The Hard Drive is a 37 GIG, NTFS. 13 GIG used on the drive with 24 GIG free space.

I ran the clean up facility and it has quite a large amount of files that have been deleted and temp internet files, nearly 2 GIG of stuff in there.
Oh and I doubt that the computer have ever been defrargged in its life.
Plus the grandkids have used it mostly to play games while they visit. There seems to be a lot (lot) of games on it.

Apart from the obvious, (increase the RAM) how else can I try to get this computer to run a bit more quick please? Would the games the kids have put on the computer likely to drag it back or if they are in the startup menu can I just take them out of the startup without actually DELETING them?

Thanks for any pending replies to this one.
Mark. Quote

massive 256MB of RAM

I think the AVG and McAfee running would be another slowing aspect.... I I've taken them both out and replaced them with Microsoft Essentials. (I dont know if that's up there with other good ones... but it works at this point).

Certainly in todays world 1 gig would be a minimum requirement for a computer. So I'll see if I have a few sticks hanging around that will suit it. Lets see if we can bring him into the 19th century at least.     

Kids games are a really big hassle. I'll bet there will be heaps of little trojans, viruses and all sorts of spyware in there because of it.

I don't know at this point whether he has ADSL or dial up but the modem has only got a small connection for the line in. Its an E162061 card, I can find a few little bits about it but don't know much more.
Its a 56k modem.

Come to think of it he must be on ADSL because he doesn't have a home phone now.

DSL works on a regular phone line.  So, he either has a home phone line or he's on cable, not DSL.

Btw, DSL and ADSL are not the same.  Typically ADSL is faster than plain DSL, often times much faster.

I have a problem with a computer I'm upgrading, the MOTHERBOARD has only one IDE connection, there are devices connected to it, one is DVD WRITER, and the other one is HDD I'm trying to install it, the DVD writer came with the PC, but not the HDD I want to put, the DVD is SETUP to cable select and the HDD to master both are on the same IDE cable, the problem is every time I turn the PC on it reads ATAPI Incompatible press F1 then it continues to load windows.
I don't know what to do, I need help to connect the IDE HDDHDD = master
CD drive = slave.....

Cabling :

MB==========================================Slave==========Master.

I recently purchased a Gateway DX4831-01E (6GB memory, Intel i3-530 processor, 1TB HD, 300 watt power SUPPLY, PCI express SLOT) for $550.  I don't know anything about video cards but heard that some cards have ATI eyefinity technology that allows 3 displays to be used with the one video card.  I only want the 3 displays for internet surfing and do not need a high end video card since I do not do any gaming.  If ANYONE can find a video card that can run 3 displays and only requires a 300 watt power supply computer that would be great, but I am guessing that I will need to change out my power supply to a HIGHER wattage rated power supply.

Please provide a recommendation for a low cost video card and a low cost power supply that will meet my needs and include a link to a website where I can purchase it.

I am also not sure if I will need one of the displays to have a display port output or if I can use my display with a HDMI output and get a connector that converts a display port output on the video card to an HDMI output.If you don't care about games, you could use this video card. You would just need a S-Video to VGA converter, depending on what you plan on hooking up to the video card.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500127

I cannot SEEM to log into my laptop. I thought the battery was flat and connected it to the power but DIDNT get ANYTHING. What are the LIKELY causes?

Playing game in full screen mode my PC froze. I could not get back to DESKTOP using alt-tab. After 45 minutes of inactivity I powered down PC and restarted. After the user selection menu and entering my password I got a dialog box entitled
'Windows Product Activation'

The text inside was
'a problem is preventing windows from accurately checking the license for this computer. error code 0x8007005'

Clicking on OK takes me back to the user menu, selecting EITHER user, one password protected and one not GIVES the same error.

No new software or hardware.
Genuine Windows XP Home Edition fully up to date.
Had PC from new - TINY Pentium4 3GHz. 
Everything is on motherboard apart from Video Card which is a NVIDIA GeForce 5200FX which has been fitted and working for 2 years. Problem also occurs if this is removed.
Optional Information:
Computer OS: Windows XP Home
Browser: IE

Microsoft Knowledge base does not list this error number.

Starting in Safe Mode works sometimes and everything on the drive appears accessible.
Starting in Safe Mode with networking requires windows license to be registered and needs to reboot in Normal mode to register.
I removed the hard drive and placed in a second pc to retrieve all my documents so I could reload Windows.  Chkdsk showed no fault and no virus was found.
I have tried the provided ‘Restore’ CD but cannot use it as I get an error message about BIOS Lock and to consult the manufacturer (TINY) who unfortunately ceased trading shortly after I BOUGHT the PC.  Safe Mode sees this as a new disk with 0 bytes free.

When booting up (boot from CD) with the repair disk in the DVD drive.
 Phoenix AwardBIOS v6.00PG
Copyright (C) 1984-2003
Version VYA18
 
IDE Channels 0 Master and 1 Slave show my HDD and DVD Drive respectively
After the PCI device listing and Verifying DMI Pool Data......
I noticed the following on screen
Boot from CD :
1. FD 1.44MB System Type-(0F)
then
Starting Windows Millenium Emergency Boot...
 
I briefly get the Reload screen to access disk functions, Repair, Restore Details etc..
This flashes onto the screen and then screen goes black with two lines of text.
 First in yellow
‘This Software is licensed to your computer manufacturer’
 Then in white
‘Unable to determine BIOS lock, please contact you system manufacturer’
 (The 'you' is not a typo)
 Pressing Esc gives a command prompt of A:\>               (There is no floppy drive on the PC)
Trying to change drives as a DOS command results in ‘Invalid Drive Specification’
 Checking the Directory of the 'disk' A:\> shows a list of files (see below) that are obviously not on the CD and must be a virtual disk on the motherboard to enable the message to be shown.
(Volume Serial Number (of disk) is 28F3-B8C1)
Directory of A:\
command.com
test.bmp
filelist
font.bmp
msg.txt
reload.exe
autoexec.bat
a total of 619,196 bytes

Trying to change drives results in the message
‘Invalid Drive Specification’

I can access the BIOS in the normal way and can change all settings.
 
I have tried removing the BIOS battery overnight with no success.
Moving the CMOS reset jumper stops the PC starting at all. When replaced in original position PC boots reporting CMOS Checksum Error – Reloading defaults. BIOS Lock problem still there.
 
I have tried putting the Reload CD in another PC which also sees it as a new disk with 0 bytes free.

Any help or suggestion gratefully received.

I just got a msg on my laptop that my battery isn't charging, despite the fact that it's been plugged in for hours.  It's only about a year old. Do batteries just die like that.  Sorry for the ignorance, but I'm more of a desktop guy.

Tanx,
KCI've never had any battery (that hasn't leaked or exploded), that has just died like that. Did you have any severe battery life depreciation over the last couple of months? I'm more of a desktop guy myself but I can think of a couple of possibilities if the battery was fine.

First off, does the computer register a battery present. I.e. does the computer SAY "No battery" under the battery status.

It may be that there is a fault somewhere with the battery connection and the computer is either not able to make a connection with the charging terminal (negative I think) or make a connection with the positive terminal (output). Is there any corrosion on the laptop's battery bay terminals or the batteries terminals?

Second, is the charger you are currently USING the original charger for the laptop?

If you are using the wrong charger then you may not be receiving enough power to charge that battery. We would have to KNOW what laptop you are using though to have any hope of answering that. The OS might be helpful as well.Do you tend to incompletely charge the battery, drain it, charge it, and so on? I know that this can sometimes cause batteries to stop being chargeable. Was the unit new... computer, charger, battery?
Is there a chance it may still be under warranty? Most sales come with a 12 month warranty period if not longer.
Has the laptop or the charger unit been dropped or subject to great amounts of heat?

There are lots of things that can go wrong with batteries, sealed, Gel and liquid types.
The plates can be affected by heat (which is the major cause of any failure).

If, for example your laptop had been in front of a window during the bright/heat of the day, say inside a car, then the components internally warp and can short out.

Most batteries consist of several cells each with the same voltage to make up the total of your battery's total voltage. eg 6 cells 2 Volts = 12 volts and it only takes one CELL to fail and the whole thing becomes faulty.

There are modern batteries that have lithium, magnesium and alkaline features in rechargeables and rely on the charger unit to supply the correct voltage, regulated by the charger in "AMPS" or "Milliamps", any faults in the regulator can affect the chargeability of your battery. A sudden impact, say from being dropped,could render your charger ineffective.

I suggest you try anther charger of a suitable type, if you can, to see if that is the source of your PROBLEM first.
Try your charger in a friends (Compatible) computer laptop, or have it tested at a reputable dealer.
You might be able to get a loan of a battery to use in your laptop, to see if the battery is at fault or the problem.
After that, things like connections to the laptop and into the wall socket should be examined.

Hope this gives you some insight as to where to start.Make sure the battery is fully depleted (drained), and at 0%, and try charging it again. That helped my laptop when I had a similar problem as you.I have heard in the past that some people have had success with placing the battery in the freezer overnight, allowing it to thaw for many hours and then try charging it.

Typically those batteries were the type to store a "charge memory" in them from being constantly discharged and recharged before they were completely flat.

I dont recommend this action until you do your own research on it and are clear on what you are doing though.

You should exhaust all other avenues before even considering this action.

Hi Everyone,

My CMOS batter failed and after installing a new one and entering CMOS in ORDER to make my computer boot up on the right drive (I have 3 hard drive and two of them are for back up, which one has complete operating system)

My Computer did recognize ALL the hard drive on the first page of my CMOS but when I went to the page for boot up SEQUENCE of hard drive it only shows ONE hard drive. (Which is the WRONG one because it showed my back up hard drive only.

My motherboard has both Serial SATA drive and EIDI, which I have for ports four SATA and two for EIDI, and my new 1TB is SATA and the others is EIDI.

I tried taking out the CMOS BATTERY while the computer was unplugged and put it back again but had the same result of only where on the first page it recognizes all the Hard Drives but on the boot up sequence page only one of my backup EIDI hard drive with operating system.

Since I did not know how to correct this problem I just disconnected my EIDI cable and it then will but up on my SATA 1TB hard drive.

The following is the information on my computer system.

Compaq Presario SR1800NX Desktop PC


Product number
EW211AA
Introduction date
28-Feb-2006
Country/region sold in:
·   US
·   Canada
Hardware
Base processor
Celeron 346 (P) 3.06 GHz  (I upgraded to Pentium D 805, clocked at 2.66 GHz ) also updated the bios
·   533 MHz FRONT side bus
·   Socket 775
Chipset
ATI Radeon Xpress 200 for Intel Processors
Motherboard
·   Manufacturer: Asus
·   Motherboard Name: P5RC-LA
·   HP/Compaq motherboard name: Agena-GL8E
Memory
Component   Attributes
Memory Installed   512 MB (1 x 512)
Maximum allowed   2 GB (2 x 1 GB) requires the replacement of the installed 512 MB DIMM
Speed supported   PC2-3200 MB/sec


I thank you  in advance anyone that can help me !

Sincerely,
Steven F. Trimarco

I tried to boot in safe mode recently and it just booted up as it should instead of booting in safe mode. I hit F8 just as I've always done and it used to work. I tried this so many times and it never worked. I RAN virus, spyware, & malware scans. I've also tried to do a repair INSTALLATION and my keyboard doesn't respond. I'll hit enter, etc. and it's just like I haven't touched a thing. I've had this COMPUTER for several years and it came with this wireless keyboard. Why have I been able to access Safe Mode by hitting F8 all of those years and now it has suddenly stopped and I can't use my keyboard unless Windows is loaded. I have changed the batteries and hit reset on the receiver but it doesn't make any difference. I have had too many times over the years when Windows would not load in a normal way and I would have to hit F8 and boot in Safe Mode to make repairs, etc. and it would work with this keyboard then so why not now? I prefer to keep it working because one day, I will need it again. I downloaded the bios update for this computer today and INSTALLED it but it didn't help a bit. Can anyone explain this and what should I do?Hi there,

Silly question, but are you having troubles going into safe mode then? Start your PC, and as it's at the loading screen for Windows, do a hard boot (Press the power button and hold it down until it shuts down). Then when you boot again, it should ask if you want to boot into safe mode, or normal boot. Quote from: talldude123 on March 12, 2010, 05:36:52 PM

Hi there,

Silly question, but are you having troubles going into safe mode then? Start your PC, and as it's at the loading screen for Windows, do a hard boot (Press the power button and hold it down until it shuts down). Then when you boot again, it should ask if you want to boot into safe mode, or normal boot.

I'd just buy a PS2 keyboard for yourself to keep for times like this...
You may want to check in the BIOS to see if "legacy USB support" is enabled although not all have this option...

Hello!

Windows Vista Home Basic SP2

Winfast

AMD Athlon 64 Processor 3500+ 2210Mhz 1 Core, 1 Logical Processor

Bios Phoenix Tech LTD 6.00

SMBios 2.2

Audiophile 2496 soundcard

Runs AVG Free.

I've been having the two common problems of PC failing to start and when it does, switching itself off. I've tried a lot of the stuff I've read on other posts with similar problems.

On a couple of occasions on start up the screen has frozen, and LOOKS like an old C64/Spectrum loading screen. I have to restart the PC.
It also switches itself off. The fans stay on, but the blue 'on' light goes off, while the red reset light stays on.
I've had one blue screen incident on start up and one 'security dialogue' warning.


I've done;
CHKDSK
System Restore
Start Up repair
From PC boot I've tried 'Last Known Good Configuration'
Cleaned the inside of dust.
Downloaded 'speedfan' and ran a check. Noticed 'Temp1' was running at 96C! Boosted the fans with the cover off so I could see if they were working. They are, but the temp didn't come down. Read some of the stuff on the Speedfan website and found that it might be a false reading if it's not connected.

The problems persist.

I've read that it might be an idea to check the CPU speed in Bios but don't know how to do this. On booting my PC offers the option of 'Boot Menu', 'Set Up', and 'Post'. How can I get into Bios via these? (Is this a dumb QUESTION?!?!). Apparently, other people have had a problem where their PC has changed their speed for their CPU and it can't keep up. Tries to read it at a faster speed than the CPU can go. If that makes sense??

Is it advisable to RUN a registry cleaner on it? ccleaner or eusing?

Powerpack problem?
CPU speed in Bios?
Or my wife literally just telling me that my son pulled the plug out of the wall while it was running last WEEK? I'll raid his piggy bank if its his fault! 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.1) DO NOT run registry cleaners
2) What was the blue screen error?
3) Running "chkdsk" is useless. You need to run "chkdsk /r". Quote from: Allan on March 13, 2010, 08:26:48 AM

1) DO NOT run registry cleaners
2) What was the blue screen error?
3) Running "chkdsk" is useless. You need to run "chkdsk /r".

Hi All,
Am very new on here.  I am not a bit technical & am struggling BADLY with a new HP Photosmart C4680 I can't get working.  It INSTALLED ok (I think) but when I go to print something, it takes the paper, whizzes it through the machine & spits it out still blank. 

Please, I am sure you very clever PEEPS know what I have or haven't done wrong?

Many thanks in advance.

(posted on the wrong forum I think last TIME)You've already posted this elsewhere and I RESPONDED there. Please don't post the same question more than once.

I have a new Compaq AMD notebook CQ61-313US with Windows 7 Home Premium. It came with a CD-RW/DVDR drive. Today I put a CD in to just listen to and nothing happened. I CLICKED the "computer" icon & the drive is not showing at all, only the C & the D drive. Am at a loss as to what to do. How could it just disappear like that, & what can I do?Have you recently installed any new hw or sw?no new hardware, but some software. one that I couldnt get to work that MIGHT be related would be Clone CDhttp://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060#win7fixYes, Microsoft has documented a known issue and provided some help. The information in the lin k  Allen gave will help you get it working again.

But you have a new notebook.
Quote

I have a new Compaq AMD notebook

It's a software problem. It has nothing to do with the laptop manufacturer.

Tried helping my sister replace her video card on HPm9552p 64bit Vista, Home PREMIUM Computer. The old one started making a loud noise which turned out to be the video card fan. Her monitor was displaying fine but game was running sooo slow before I took it out. I tried to put back in to see if the noise would stop, that maybe something was LOOSE. Now the screen says no display. I took it back out and looked at it even closer and noticed a spot that looked like it was overheating. it was dark brown. We purchased a new video card and the display says the same thing. I'm afarid to ask this question, but in helping her did I mess up her computer? Thanks for any help anyone can give. Where is the burn mark ? ?
And it's probably not from what you did...the burn mark is on the bottom of video card AREA where fan is over.
On the vid card...or on the motherboard ? ?Is this your computer?
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01324212&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&product=3891406&lang=en

It has integrated video and has probably defaulted to that.Yes this is the computer. I'm sorry this is my 1st time ever posting anything ANYWHERE, and I keep losing the reply button.

Can anyone tell me, is there a specific procedure to do before removing an OLD video card and replacing with a new one? I REMOVED the old one and now I can't get the screen to go on with the new or old video card. ThanksYou already have a thread on this. Please post in that thread - DUPLICATE threads only cause duplicate work and confusion.Topic Closed.

Please see your other thread for REPLIES...

I have a CyberPower Laptop -X64-8000- P50CA1 (apparently built by Uniwill) running Vista, it has an A.M.D. MT-40 Turion CPU rated at 2.2Ghz.
Recently for some unknown reason the CPU started running at 800Mhz instead of the full rated speed of 2.2Ghz.
I am attaching 2 snapshots of CPU-Z before and after settings.
The Bios in my laptop does not allow any form of overclocking or any other way to modify CPU or other advanced settings, just the basic setup stuff. I can't figure out why the CPU got throttled back and don't know how to restore it to the original settings. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks


[Saving space, attachment deleted by admin]That's normal for an AMD processor. Most if not all AMD processors will say that it's clocked at half the speed when idle, and when there's a load, it performs at it's full speed.Pff that's useless power saving if that's the case, i would hate that and disable it... Look under your power management settings in your BIOS and under windows and set to always on.

If that isn't the case, I suggest checking your computer isn't overheating, performance can drop for SAFETY reasons due to that! Check the fans aren't clogged with dust, spinning, etc.1.  You MAY DOWNLOAD software to monitor the temperature sensors of your computer to check for "overheating".  I'm assuming CPU would throttle down if it sensed higher temperatures.
     a.  http://www.filehippo.com/download_speedfan/
     b.  http://www.cpuid.com/hwmonitor.php

2.  You're using two different versions of "CPU-Z" (for your displays) to make your case.  Can't tell if your laptop throttles down or the two versions just report differently.Yes I have upgraded my CPU-Z version since the first report, maybe the problem is with CPU-Z reporting the data differently with each different version, but I doubt it. I will look into changing my power options in my Bios if I can. Will post an update as SOON as I can.

I'm running out of space on my existing DRIVE (Seagate 80Gb 'Barracuda 7200.7' model ST380011A, ultra DMA) and so bought a WD 160Gb PATA (cheap being the preferable option before total upgrade). Followed steps in an 'upgrades' magazine but computer wouldn't boot. Noticed for the 1st time that with the new drive unplugged, existing drive is recognised as slave whether it is on the end or middle connector.

First ATTEMPT to boot was with existing drive on end connector, jumper to master and new drive on middle connector jumper to slave. This combo wouldn't boot (existing drive STILL recognised as slave).

Second attempt to boot was same connector combo but with both jumpers on 'cable select'. Same result.
Am I wasting my time (and money)?

System: Pentium 4, ASUS P4S800-MX motherboard, Windows XP, 1Gb RAM

Q1. Are the drives compatible?
Q2. If so, which combo is correct?
Q3. Do I need to change something in the BIOS?1.  IDE Cable.  Make sure you're not using the "old" 40-wire 40-pin connector cable.  To support the higher tranfer rates, the newer IDE drives need the 80-wire 40-pin connector cable.
     a.  Is your IDE cable 80-wire with 40-pin connectors?
     b.  Does cable have blue, grey, and black connectors?

2.  Reference(s):
     a.  ST380011A Jumper Settings
     b.  WDC Jumper Settings
     c.  http://www.mikeshardware.com/howtos/howto_connect_ide_hd.html

3.  Recommendation.  I'd work with just the "master" drive until your system acknowledges that configuration.  No point introducing the "slave" if it can't correctly pick up the "master".
------------------------------------------------

Q1.  Don't know if they're compatible...  However, I'd be surprised if they weren't (as they're two major drive manufacturers).

Q2.  Correct positions on an 80-wire 40-pin connector cable.  I'd explicitly jumper them to "master" and "slave" settings (as all components involved must support "cable select" before you can use it).
     a.  Master/Slave jumpers:
          (1)  Blue connector to primary IDE port on motherboard (lowest numbered IDE port).
          (2)  Grey connector to drive explicitly jumpered as "slave".
          (3)  Black connector to drive explicitly jumpered as "master".

     b.  Cable Select (both drives jumpered for cable select):
          (1)  Blue connector to primary IDE port on motherboard.
          (2)  Grey connector to "slave" drive.
          (3)  Black connector to "master" drive.

Q3.  I'm not aware of any BIOS settings that explicitly affect "master/slave" detection.Also some drives have a "master w'slave present" jumper setting which should be used if you are using the 2nd HDD.

And i agree with dahlerbear...work on getting the primary drive recognised by itself....the BIOS is easily confused. Try unplugging from the wall for 5 mins...hook up only the primary drive jumpered as master and give it power...Thanks for the replies. Had another go at it and realised... had the Jumper diagram Upside Down on the master. Oops, lucky the magic smoke didn't get out. Let that be a lesson to me - DOUBLE check your work.

Jumpered master/slave, and correct connector positions, checked the BIOS and whalla, BIOS on autodetect did the work for me. I love computers! Can't wait to build my own system... when I get some time.Good news indeed...

Hi,
I just got a new WG111v3 adapter off of Ebay. So I replaced my old v2 ONE with the new v3 one. I tried to put the v2 one in my other computer. But when I TRY to use it I install the software with it. I open the software and sometimes it appears as a blank box and sometimes it is just a item on the taskbar. The computer is a WINDOWS 98SE with 128MB of Memory and a 8GB hard drive.
Thanks in Advance,
Lolopop81You could try to right click on the wireless icon in the task bar and click use windows wireless zero. This may helpTry uninstalling all  wireless adapters and reinstalling the one you are TRYING to use.Remember guys this is Windows 98SE not XP

I deleted the program by accident (i think it was called realtek audio or something) and don't know how to get it back!  Here's my everest info?
--------[ EVEREST Home Edition (c) 2003-2005 Lavalys, Inc. ]------------------------------------------------------------

    Version                                           EVEREST v2.20.405
    Homepage                                          http://www.lavalys.com/

    Operating SYSTEM                                  Microsoft Windows XP Media Center Edition 5.1.2600 (WinXP Retail)
 

--------[ Summary ]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Computer:
      Operating System                                  Microsoft Windows XP Media Center Edition
      OS Service Pack                                   Service Pack 2
      DirectX                                           4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
      Computer Name                                     YOUR-1BC968E400 (Emily's Computer!!!)
      User Name                                         Owner

    Motherboard:
      CPU Type                                          DualCore AMD Athlon 64 X2, 2000 MHz (10 x 200) 3800+
      Motherboard Name                                  Unknown
      Motherboard Chipset                               Unknown
      System MEMORY                                     1920 MB
      BIOS Type                                         Award (03/30/06)
      Communication Port                                Printer Port (LPT1)

    Display:
      Video Adapter                                     NVIDIA GeForce 6100  (256 MB)
      3D Accelerator                                    nVIDIA C51
      Monitor                                           Plug and Play Monitor [NoDB]  (MG36470P06812)

    Multimedia:
      Audio Adapter                                     Multimedia Audio Controller [NoDB]

    Storage:
      IDE Controller                                    Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
      IDE Controller                                    Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
      Disk Drive                                        WDC WD2500BB-22RDA0  (232 GB, IDE)
      Disk Drive                                        Generic USB SD Reader USB Device
      Disk Drive                                        Generic USB CF Reader USB Device
      Disk Drive                                        Generic USB SM Reader USB Device
      Disk Drive                                        Generic USB MS Reader USB Device
      Disk Drive                                        HP Photosmart C5500 USB Device
      Optical Drive                                     TSSTcorp CD/DVDW TS-H552D  (DVD+R9:2.4x, DVD+RW:16x/4x, DVD-RW:12x/4x, DVD-ROM:16x, CD:40x/32x/48x DVD+RW/DVD-RW)
      SMART Hard Disks Status                           OK

    Partitions:
      C: (NTFS)                                         234244 MB (194491 MB free)
      D: (FAT32)                                        4219 MB (2442 MB free)
      Total Size                                        232.9 GB (192.3 GB free)

    Input:
      Keyboard                                          Standard 101/102-Key or Microsoft Natural PS/2 Keyboard
      Mouse                                             HID-compliant mouse

    Network:
      Network Adapter                                   Belkin Wireless G Plus MIMO USB Network Adapter  (192.168.1.65)
      Network Adapter                                   NVIDIA nForce Networking Controller
      Modem                                             Agere Systems PCI-SV92PP Soft Modem

    Peripherals:
      Printer                                           Canon MP450 Series Printer
      Printer                                           HP Photosmart C5500 series
      Printer                                           Microsoft Office Document Image Writer
      Printer                                           Microsoft XPS Document Writer
      USB1 Controller                                   Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller [NoDB]
      USB2 Controller                                   Standard Enhanced PCI to USB Host Controller [NoDB]
      USB Device                                        Belkin Wireless G Plus MIMO USB Network Adapter #5
      USB Device                                        HP Photosmart C5500 series(DOT4USB)
      USB Device                                        HP Photosmart C5500
      USB Device                                        Multimedia Card Reader
      USB Device                                        Unknown Device
      USB Device                                        USB Composite Device
      USB Device                                        USB Human Interface Device
      USB Device                                        USB Mass Storage Device
      USB Device                                        USB Printing Support


--------[ DMI ]---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  [ BIOS ]

    BIOS Properties:
      Vendor                                            Phoenix Technologies, LTD
      Version                                           6.00 PG
      Release Date                                      03/30/2006
      Size                                              512 KB
      Boot Devices                                      Floppy Disk, Hard Disk, CD-ROM, ATAPI ZIP, LS-120
      Capabilities                                      Flash BIOS, Shadow BIOS, Selectable Boot, EDD
      Supported Standards                               DMI, APM, ACPI, PnP
      Expansion Capabilities                            ISA, PCI, USB

  [ System ]

    System Properties:
      Manufacturer                                      Gateway
      Product                                           GT5082
      Wake-Up Type                                      Power Switch

  [ Motherboard ]

    Motherboard Properties:
      Product                                           C51G+MCP51
      Serial Number                                     WY3J62600429

  [ Chassis ]

    Chassis Properties:
      Chassis Type                                      Desktop Case

  [ Memory Controller ]

    Memory Controller Properties:
      Error Detection Method                            64-bit ECC
      Error Correction                                  None
      Supported Memory Interleave                       1-Way
      Current Memory Interleave                         1-Way
      Supported Memory Speeds                           70ns, 60ns, 50ns
      Supported Memory Types                            SPM, DIMM
      Supported Memory Voltages                         2.9V
      Maximum Memory Module Size                        4096 MB
      Memory Slots                                      4

  [ Processors / AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 3800+ ]

    Processor Properties:
      Manufacturer                                      AMD
      Version                                           AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 3800+
      External Clock                                    200 MHz
      Maximum Clock                                     3000 MHz
      Current Clock                                     2000 MHz
      Type                                              Central Processor
      Voltage                                           1.3 V
      Status                                            Enabled
      Socket Designation                                Socket 939

  [ Processors / AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 3800+ ]

    Processor Properties:
      Manufacturer                                      AMD
      Version                                           AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 3800+
      External Clock                                    200 MHz
      Maximum Clock                                     3000 MHz
      Current Clock                                     2000 MHz
      Type                                              Central Processor
      Voltage                                           1.3 V
      Status                                            Enabled
      Socket Designation                                Socket 939

  [ Caches / Internal Cache ]

    Cache Properties:
      Type                                              Internal
      Status                                            Enabled
      Operational Mode                                  Write-Back
      Maximum Size                                      128 KB
      Installed Size                                    128 KB
      Supported SRAM Type                               Synchronous
      Current SRAM Type                                 Synchronous
      Socket Designation                                Internal Cache

  [ Caches / Internal Cache ]

    Cache Properties:
      Type                                              Internal
      Status                                            Enabled
      Operational Mode                                  Write-Back
      Maximum Size                                      128 KB
      Installed Size                                    128 KB
      Supported SRAM Type                               Synchronous
      Current SRAM Type                                 Synchronous
      Socket Designation                                Internal Cache

  [ Caches / External Cache ]

    Cache Properties:
      Type                                              Internal
      Status                                            Enabled
      Operational Mode                                  Write-Back
      Maximum Size                                      512 KB
      Installed Size                                    512 KB
      Supported SRAM Type                               Synchronous
      Current SRAM Type                                 Synchronous
      Socket Designation                                External Cache

  [ Caches / External Cache ]

    Cache Properties:
      Type                                              Internal
      Status                                            Enabled
      Operational Mode                                  Write-Back
      Maximum Size                                      512 KB
      Installed Size                                    512 KB
      Supported SRAM Type                               Synchronous
      Current SRAM Type                                 Synchronous
      Socket Designation                                External Cache

  [ Memory Modules / A0 ]

    Memory Module Properties:
      Socket Designation                                A0
      Type                                              EDO
      Speed                                             70 ns
      Installed Size                                    512 MB
      Enabled Size                                      512 MB

  [ Memory Modules / A1 ]

    Memory Module Properties:
      Socket Designation                                A1
      Type                                              EDO
      Speed                                             70 ns
      Installed Size                                    512 MB
      Enabled Size                                      512 MB

  [ Memory Modules / A2 ]

    Memory Module Properties:
      Socket Designation                                A2
      Type                                              EDO
      Speed                                             70 ns
      Installed Size                                    512 MB
      Enabled Size                                      512 MB

  [ Memory Modules / A3 ]

    Memory Module Properties:
      Socket Designation                                A3
      Type                                              EDO
      Speed                                             70 ns
      Installed Size                                    512 MB
      Enabled Size                                      512 MB

  [ Memory Devices / A0 ]

    Memory Device Properties:
      Form Factor                                       DIMM
      Size                                              512 MB
      Total Width                                       64-bit
      Data Width                                        64-bit
      Device Locator                                    A0
      Bank Locator                                      Bank0/1

  [ Memory Devices / A1 ]

    Memory Device Properties:
      Form Factor                                       DIMM
      Size                                              512 MB
      Total Width                                       64-bit
      Data Width                                        64-bit
      Device Locator                                    A1
      Bank Locator                                      Bank2/3

  [ Memory Devices / A2 ]

    Memory Device Properties:
      Form Factor                                       DIMM
      Size                                              512 MB
      Total Width                                       64-bit
      Data Width                                        64-bit
      Device Locator                                    A2
      Bank Locator                                      Bank4/5

  [ Memory Devices / A3 ]

    Memory Device Properties:
      Form Factor                                       DIMM
      Size                                              512 MB
      Total Width                                       64-bit
      Data Width                                        64-bit
      Device Locator                                    A3
      Bank Locator                                      Bank6/7

  [ System Slots / PCI0 ]

    System Slot Properties:
      Slot Designation                                  PCI0
      Type                                              PCI
      Usage                                             Empty
      Data Bus Width                                    32-bit
      Length                                            Long

  [ System Slots / PCI1 ]

    System Slot Properties:
      Slot Designation                                  PCI1
      Type                                              PCI
      Usage                                             In Use
      Data Bus Width                                    32-bit
      Length                                            Long

  [ System Slots / PCI2 ]

    System Slot Properties:
      Slot Designation                                  PCI2
      Type                                              PCI
      Usage                                             In Use
      Data Bus Width                                    32-bit
      Length                                            Long

  [ System Slots / PCI3 ]

    System Slot Properties:
      Slot Designation                                  PCI3
      Type                                              PCI-E x1
      Usage                                             In Use
      Data Bus Width                                    32-bit
      Length                                            Long

  [ System Slots / PCI3 ]

    System Slot Properties:
      Slot Designation                                  PCI3
      Type                                              PCI-E x1
      Usage                                             In Use
      Data Bus Width                                    32-bit
      Length                                            Long

  [ Port Connectors / PRIMARY IDE ]

    Port Connector Properties:
      Internal Reference Designator                     PRIMARY IDE
      Internal Connector Type                           On-Board IDE
      External Connector Type                           None

  [ Port Connectors / SECONDARY IDE ]

    Port Connector Properties:
      Internal Reference Designator                     SECONDARY IDE
      Internal Connector Type                           On-Board IDE
      External Connector Type                           None

  [ Port Connectors / FDD ]

    Port Connector Properties:
      Port Type                                         8251 FIFO Compatible
      Internal Reference Designator                     FDD
      Internal Connector Type                           On-Board Floppy
      External Connector Type                           None

  [ Port Connectors / COM1 ]

    Port Connector Properties:
      Port Type                                         Serial Port 16450 Compatible
      Internal Reference Designator                     COM1
      Internal Connector Type                           9 Pin Dual Inline (pin 10 cut)
      External Connector Type                           DB-9 pin male

  [ Port Connectors / COM2 ]

    Port Connector Properties:
      Port Type                                         Serial Port 16450 Compatible
      Internal Reference Designator                     COM2
      Internal Connector Type                           9 Pin Dual Inline (pin 10 cut)
      External Connector Type                           DB-9 pin male

  [ Port Connectors / LPT1 ]

    Port Connector Properties:
      Port Type                                         Parallel Port ECP/EPP
      Internal Reference Designator                     LPT1
      Internal Connector Type                           DB-25 pin female
      External Connector Type                           DB-25 pin female

  [ Port Connectors / Keyboard ]

    Port Connector Properties:
      Port Type                                         Keyboard Port
      Internal Reference Designator                     Keyboard
      Internal Connector Type                           PS/2
      External Connector Type                           PS/2

  [ Port Connectors / PS/2 Mouse ]

    Port Connector Properties:
      Port Type                                         Mouse Port
      Internal Reference Designator                     PS/2 Mouse
      Internal Connector Type                           PS/2
      External Connector Type                           PS/2

  [ Port Connectors / USB0 ]

    Port Connector Properties:
      Port Type                                         USB
      Internal Connector Type                           None
      External Reference Designator                     USB0


--------[ Overclock ]---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    CPU Properties:
      CPU Type                                          DualCore AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+
      CPU Alias                                         Toledo-512 S939
      CPU Stepping                                      JH-E6
      CPUID CPU Name                                    AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 3800+
      CPUID Revision                                    00020F32h

    CPU Speed:
      CPU Clock                                         2005.58 MHz
      CPU Multiplier                                    10.0x
      CPU FSB                                           200.56 MHz  (original: 200 MHz)

    CPU Cache:
      L1 Code Cache                                     64 KB  (Parity)
      L1 Data Cache                                     64 KB  (ECC)
      L2 Cache                                          512 KB  (On-Die, ECC, Full-Speed)

    Motherboard Properties:
      Motherboard ID                                    03/30/2006-C51G+MCP51-6A61HFK9C-00
      Motherboard Name                                  Unknown

    BIOS Properties:
      System BIOS Date                                  03/30/06
      Video BIOS Date                                   10/19/05
      Award BIOS Type                                   Phoenix - Award WorkstationBIOS v6.00PG
      Award BIOS Message                                C51GU01 series 611E3P09 03/30/06
      DMI BIOS Version                                  6.00 PG


--------[ Power Management ]--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Power Management Properties:
      Current Power Source                              AC Line
      Battery Status                                    No Battery
      Full Battery Lifetime                             Unknown
      Remaining Battery Lifetime                        Unknown


--------[ Sensor ]------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Sensor Properties:
      Sensor Type                                       ITE IT8712F  (ISA 290h)

    Temperatures:
      Motherboard                                       33 °C  (91 °F)
      CPU                                               30 °C  (86 °F)
      Aux                                               28 °C  (82 °F)
      WDC WD2500BB-22RDA0                               36 °C  (97 °F)

    Cooling Fans:
      CPU                                               1148 RPM

    Voltage Values:
      CPU Core                                          1.34 V
      +2.5 V                                            1.18 V
      +3.3 V                                            3.30 V
      +5 V                                              5.03 V
      +12 V                                             11.65 V
      +5 V Standby                                      4.95 V
      VBAT Battery                                      2.94 V
      Debug Info F                                      93 FF FF
      Debug Info T                                      28 33 30
      Debug Info V                                      54 4A CE BB B6 CC 9F (F7)Welcome to CH, ohnoihavenosound. This is a somewhat common event.

Try downloading this Realtek driver. I got it from the Gateway website, and it is shown as the audio driver for your Gateway GT5082 Desktop PC, so it should work.

http://support.gateway.com/support/drivers/getFile.asp?id=20555&dscr=Realtek AC'97 5.10.0.5990 Audio Driver

Click the link and then click on "D00542-001-001.exe".

Follow the "How to Install" instructions if you get lost. Good luck.I did something similar and fixed it by doing a 'system restore'. If memory serves you go Start > Accessories > System Tools > System Restore . Choose a date before which you did the delete. Caution: If the last retore date was some time ago you may lose more than you gain.Have you gone under Microsoft Update, and looked for "Hardware" updates? Your sound driver would be in there. Quote from: talldude123 on March 12, 2010, 08:14:16 PM

Have you gone under Microsoft Update, and looked for "Hardware" updates? Your sound driver would be in there.

Hi,

I tried updating the BIOS of my Sony Vaio CS-17G notebook to the latest updates given at the Sony Support Website. It's an Insyde BIOS, i tried updating my BIOS to version R0290Q2.

Everything went fine, got message 'BIOS updated successfully', 'Press OK to shut down.'

Pressed ok & now nothing's okay. The system is not booting up!

Tried the following TROUBLESHOOTING, but no luck;
1) Pressing F2 & F8 keys.
2) Disconnected the AC Adapter, removed the battery & pressed the power button for 60secs.

Pls assist.If the notebook turns on, displays nothing, gives no beeps and is not responsive to the power switch when turning off, then your BIOS is probably ruined.

Your best course of action is to CONTACT Sony and send the notebook back for repair. They will probably want to change the motherboard. If the notebook is still under warranty then they will probably not charge you anything (don't know about postage depends on Sony).

If your system is just not booting to an OS then I agree with this guy: http://forums.mydigitallife.info/threads/17126-Sony-VAIO-CS17G-BIOS-Recovery-Help!?p=248149#post248149 [Venu] (not yourself obviously).

I can't seem to find your notebook on Sony's website what country did you buy the notebook in?Exactly what happens when you try to boot?Right I finally worked out that you have a Sony Vaio VGN CS-17G notebook (lol at myself searching every Sony support website on the planet looking for just CS-17G laptop).

What I suspect has happened is that you have downloaded the wrong BIOS. Now I can't find the original BIOS so I suggest using the new correct BIOS. This website clearly shows four different downloads for different models (and that's just if you're from the US). If your laptop is still functional enough to load a new BIOS then I recommend that you check the bottom of your laptop for the full model number and version, then download and install the correct BIOS from the correct region.

http://www.kb.sony.com/selfservice/microsites/search.do?cmd=displayKC&docType=kc&externalId=eSupport-UPD2004ENR1&sliceId=&docTypeID=DT_SOFTWARE_DRIVERS_1_1&dialogID=85940784&stateId=1%200%2085956265 Quote from: Accessless on March 11, 2010, 11:54:37 AM

...I can't find the original BIOS so I suggest using the new correct BIOS. ...

If your system is just not booting to an OS then I agree with this guy: http://forums.mydigitallife.info/threads/17126-Sony-VAIO-CS17G-BIOS-Recovery-Help!?p=248149#post248149 [Venu] (not yourself obviously).

Exactly what happens when you try to boot?

...The power light comes on with HDD light flickering constantly...

When starting up, do you ever see the VAIO logo?

One positive development guys; visited Sony Service Center yesterday, explained them that it happened cause of their support staff has asked me to update BIOS, provided them the case reference number. They are looking into the laptop, could be it gets done under warranty. Fingers Crossed.

No.

YUKON PXE v 6.22.1.33 (20070803)
(c)Copyright 2003-2006 Marvell (R). All Rights Reserved
Pre-Boot Execution Environvment (PXE)
(c)Copyright 1997-2003 INTEL Corporation

PXE-E61: Media test failure, check cable.
PXE-M0F: Existing PXE ROM.

Who installed the new motherboard, Sony or you?

I have a Dell Inspiron 6000 laptop running Windows XP which would not power up (This is my son's machine so I don't KNOW which SP if any have been installed). The machine would turn on the power LCD light and then shut completely down- I mean completely.  I did all dionogistics I Know of (replaced fan, changed PCU,etc) and determined that it was a problem with the motherboard.  I replaced the motherboard with one purchased on E-Bay and the machine booted up and it was running just OK (extremely slow!) so I decided to run the Windows Updates before I went any farther.  After the updates were installed the machine was automaticly rebooted.   After the machine shut down it would not boot up again so I shut down the machine manually, after that the machine returned to the origanal problem (When powered on the power LCD woulg go on then shut off the machine completely (I mean completely!). Can anyone help me with this problem? THANKSCould be hard DRIVE failure. A reformat of the computer could be necessary. Or the problem could be with both motherboards. Don't buy stuff like that off of ebay. Go to Newegg.com or a site that just sells computer parts. Quote from: lolopop81 on March 14, 2010, 05:38:13 PM

Don't buy stuff like that off of ebay. Go to Newegg.com or a site that just sells computer parts.

A reformat of the computer could be necessary.

Could be hard drive failure.

I have a windows xp desktop,  givin to me, it was DOA,   replaced motherboard,new memory stick.
Power up the machine, fans all run, green light is lit on motherboard.
I cannot seem to get it to START and give me a screen to work with.
A red light is on, on the front of the machine, green light does not come on.
How do i by a process of elimination find the problem?      If i plug in the cd rom drive the lights come on  but cant open the door unless i disconnect the grey ribbon cable then it opens.
Assuming that the memory is compatible with the motherboard, you only have the power supply and the processor left. Replace the cheaper item first. If the PC now works, you got lucky. If it doesn't, and you then buy the other item, by now you have a new PC in an old case. I hope it wasn't a Dell, and you put a non-Dell motherboard in there?



I replaced the motherboard with the same exact model that was in it. No it was not a Dell.
I now have another Hard drive coming.
If the power supply was bad, what would the symptoms be. It seems that all of the (Hotwires are hot)
i can hook  the cd  drive up it has power, also the a drive has power and so does the hard drive. 
I just cant get it through  to the video so the screen will come up.
Thanks for your help!!!!Recheck all the power connections to the boardReplaced the hard drive. still have the same problem. No screen. How can the power supply be bad if the fans are running mother board has green light. All the power leads are  live??   Any Suggestions? Quote from: Sirwhinesalot on February 22, 2010, 10:34:34 AM

How can the power supply be bad if the fans are running mother board has green light. All the power leads are  live??

...How can the power supply be bad if the fans are running mother board has green light. All the power leads are  live??   Any Suggestions?

...So far everything has been replaced...

Hi

Could someone out there help me by telling me what size of a power supply is necessary to power the speakers that are hooked up to my computer?
Thank you
lsm What kind of speakers? Isn't there a little label saying something like "NN volts NNN mA" somewhere near a DC power input socket?

Withoput knowing the brand and model we are not going to be able to help you very much.
I was unaware that the power supply is what provides power to the speakers. They should plug directly into an electrical outlet in the wall. The only connection between the PC and the speaker(s), is an audio jack of some sort.t_blake07, you are confused maybe or is English not your first language? There are 2 sorts of pc speakers

1. Unpowered speakers which connect directly to the pc's sound outlet, just like headphones would. These are powered directly by the sound card or sound hardware on the motherboard. They can sound feeble due to the low audio power available.

2. Powered speakers which contain amplification of their own which do not sound so feeble. These have their own little power supply which plugs into the AC wall outlet and supplies low voltage DC. It can be a little brick shaped device or what (I believe) Americans call a "wall wart". This power supply is nothing to do with the PC's power supply.

Sets of powered speakers come in different SIZES and have different voltage and current requirements. There is no way to tell what type or size of power supply the OP needs because we don't know what speakers he or she has.

They are small 7 3/4inches X 4 INCHES X 3 inches. Made in China and have no labels that i can see. They look like Startech Cyber Acoustics CA2016 and are powered by the wall wart as you have refered to the  little D.C. converter. They plug into the sound jack of the computer. Quote from: Salmon Trout on March 14, 2010, 03:05:45 PM

t_blake07, you are confused maybe or is English not your first language?

Sets of powered speakers come in different sizes and have different voltage and current requirements. There is no way to tell what type or size of power supply the OP needs because we don't know what speakers he or she has.

I am confused about this though. If the speakers are powered through a wall outlet, why would it matter what the PC's power supply wattage output is?

Startech Cyber Acoustics CA2016

Seriously?  Roll Eyes Anyways, I've never owned speakers that didn't plug directly into the wall via AC adapter, nor have I seen speakers that were powered by the PC itself.

I have. Bought on in South America. The case had a jack for the five volt line. Speakers and case were sold as a set. Never saw another one after that.

Again, I wonder about your reading skills. I never mentioned the PC's power supply's wattage.

Their is a red light that BLINKS everytime I power on my unit. I've tried unplugging it, holding down the button for 30sec, but still no luck. It turned on before, but now It wont even give me a picture. The computer is a older model HP WINDOWS Xp with a pentium 4 processor. I use it for recording. Not sure what other type of info you may NEED, but please let me know.

Thank you.You wouldn't happen to know the model of your computer? Or brand. EXAMPLE: Dell Dimension 4634Sorry, Just Model Number.Look on your case......  it may written there..... example HP pavilion 7855 or it could have just a number... like 715n....

I have an 80GB external HD that I use for just about everything.  Well, yesterday at work, it was fine.  I go home, and plug it in to my COMPUTER and it says "installing new USB device" and "your device is now installed properly and ready to use" but its not showing up on "My Computer" and I cant get to the dataDoes it appear in DISK MANAGEMENT?No, I have tried to get to it from CMD as well.  Still nothing 

It lets me "safely remove" it though.  Odd."Safely Remove" would list a drive letter. Does that drive letter appear in Disk Managment (diskmgmt.msc)?It actually doesn't list as a letter when I try to safely remove it.  It just shows as a "USB device"

While this may sound simplistic please don't be offended - these are the most common causes of the problem you describe:

1) It IS plugged in to AC power, correct (assuming the driver requires external power)?
2) You did try multiple USB ports on your computer, yes?
3) And I assume you've rebooted the system.

If yes to all above, try a clean boot (msconfig - startup tab - disable all startup items & reboot)

Last, you should try the drive on another system. Just because it worked yesterday doesn't mean it will work today. Drives do die at some point.no offense taken. 

1. Doesnt require external power other than a USB
2. I have tried multiple ports on 3 different computers...all the same results
3. I have rebooted and restored to yesterday.


I will try the clean boot and see what happensWell, if you've tried three different computers it sounds like the drive may have passed on.   Anyway to get the data off of it?  Not my area of expertise. Sit tight, I've asked patio to respond when he has time.Thanks manYepWhen it comes to saving data you sometimes will only get 1 chance...i Don't trust a USB connection for this so i'd recommend re-inserting at as a slave drive internally.

The key here is to be prepared ahead of time.
Make sure the master drive has adequate space 1st.
2nd Turn off any and all apps that may normally read the master drive .....A?V apps; email checkers; system monitor apps etc. ....basically anything you don't need running.
3rd Do NOT try to burn the data directly....this takes longer first of all and secondly works the HDD harder.....copy/move the data to another HDD.

And 4th one thing that can be tried is to place the drive inside a double ziplok bag overnite in the freezer. This method only works approx 5 to 8 % of the time so don't get your hopes up.....

Best of Luck.

I bought this card and after like a month the card has been heating up. Its always at about 130-150 degrees Fahrenheit and while playing it maxes out at 200 degrees Fahrenheit . I cleaned the fan, and on top of that i added a extra fan on top of the actual fan so basically there are a two layers of can cooling the video card. which would be good but the card is still over heating, now that i looked into some site s and they say that i should be able to control the fan of the card so i installed the latest Nvidia drivers and the performance PROGRAM that goes with with and there is a setting where i can change the fan speed but the SLIDER doesn't move. can any of you guys here explain to me why this isn't working for me?

Thanks BluerjB

Specs:
Windows Ultimate 32bit
650 power supply
Intel Dual Core E5300 2.60Ghz(overclocked) to 3.14Ghz
BFG GeForce 210 with added Cooler on top
2G ram
ASUS P5KPL-CM MotherBoard
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/9046/imag0013l.jpg
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/2760/imag0015c.jpg
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/5691/imag0022f.jpg
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/4421/imag0017a.jpghow COME no one is replying? I read somewhere that there is a problem with the latest Nvidia drivers and fan control. I'm not sure if it applies to your card. You may TRY installing an earlier driver. You may need to add another case fan or get a different case. Have you tried sitting a fan beside the pc BLOWING air into it?

Carpet is not the best place to be working on your computer or laying your card for pics. Be careful of ESD.

I just installed my new Radeon 5770 in place of my old 3870. When I set my resolution to 1920 by 1080, there will be an inch of my monitor that is not being USED. It will not let me increase the hertz past 60 and still display the 1920 by  1080, If I increase the Hertz, it will set me to a lower resolution making my display very grainy. I did not have this problem with my 3870. I dont KNOW what to do at this point any assistance would be GREATLY appreciated. Frpm reading your post it is not cleaqr what you want. Is it this??
QUOTE

When I set my resolution to 1920 by 1080, there will be an inch of my monitor that is not being used.

lol at this question but i think hes talking bout the actual screen (monitor) settings

trying to get an old pc up and running. i have a dvd and a dvd r-w drive. There is power to both. I reseated the data cables. But whenever a dvd or cd is put in both, it doesnt recognize and media in there. "please insert DISC in drive", etc. the drives are recognized in My COMPUTER. drivers are updated.  Everything ELSE is fine on computer.

any ideas?bad drive - read laser(s) burned out or failed maybe. They are so cheap now it is not worth spending time on them.
well..i would say maybe if it was just one. but its both. and also, i'm doing it because i'm INTERESTED in finding the solution out of curiosity sake. so, lets say hypothetically is isnt the laserS. what would your guess be.one more thing you can try is moving the JUMPER on hte back of the drive(if it is an IDE drive)  I've had that problem in the past where the drives show up in my computer and device manager but won't work properly because the jumper is not in the right placesorry I didn't realise you were talking about 2 drives. If they are on the same IDE channel I would suspect the cable or as Atari7800 says, the jumpering.

Hi,
Dell Studio 1535 cooler(fan) always on, even if the system is not warm up. Plus mouse and keyboard work slowly.
shut down computer, wait (5h.), but still the same. Checks the system load and temperature - all the norm.
What happened? When you say the fan is always on... are you speaking of the CPU fan or the fan for the power Unit?CPU fanIf you are talking about the fan kick-in, you might have a faulty fan controller or you UPDATED the BIOS from A05 to A06 which lowered the temporary kick-in by 10 degrees.

The speed of the fans can be controled on some motherboards and software linking to it, if you have issues with it running too fast check your BIOS settings / Fan Control Software. Some overclocking software will also NORMALLY increase this or temperature monitors.

Check your fans are clean from DUST and there's nothing sitting on them like a wire, this will make them have more noise and have to work harder. This includes the heat sink getting cogged with dust. Also make sure the fan isn't DAMAGED or off balanced.

I found this - Dell Studio 1535 fan problem: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISIcmEOJt88
Looks like a common problem with that fan...

As for the mouse and keyboard working slowly are you using USB connection or PS/2? Quote from: lolalola on March 16, 2010, 07:25:45 AM

Hi,
Dell Studio 1535 cooler(fan) always on, even if the system is not warm up. Plus mouse and keyboard work slowly.
shut down computer, wait (5h.), but still the same. Checks the system load and temperature - all the norm.
What happened?

I have a NEW computer with Vista and my HP PSC 750 printer is not working correctly.  I have to turn the printer off and on in order for it to print.  Also, the scanner does not always want to SCAN.  It tells me to turn it off and on again, but then it still doesn't want to scan.  Also, when it does print, it pauses EVERY so often and skips a line of printing here and there.
  What can I do to CORRECT this?Have you installed correct driver for Vista (download them from the HP site)?

how do i set the options for my printer to print in black only
I have built a PC
ASUS mobo win 7 os, amd 9850 quad 500gb hdd Epson stylus 880 printer
window seven compatilibity said that II dont need any driver installed but without a
driver installed I have no options to change color or printing options It would be in the software you installed that was provided with the printer.with the win 7 and the old printer they were supposed to be compatible which they are to an extent. but the old software is not compatible with win 7
 Then GO to the website of the printer manufacturer and look for a newer driver.been there they dont have a driver for that old of printer for win 7
Quote from: alltools nobrains on March 16, 2010, 04:31:12 PM

been there they dont have a driver for that old of printer for win 7

I'm having issues with one of my desktops that runs Windows XP.  It has TWO INTERNAL HDs (one is a Seagate and the other is a Western Digital).  During a lightening storm three days ago, the computer restarted and SINCE then it has not been able to detect the Western Digital HD. When I tried to start up the computer, it was stuck on "Detecting IDE drives". I opened up the computer and saw that the Seagate HD was set as the master and the Western Digital, the slave. When I removed the Western Digital HD, I was able to boot up the computer from the Seagate HD (as I previously used that to operate Windows 98 on the computer and that OS was still installed).

Is there any way to repair the Western Digital HD? It is completely undetected by the computer. If there is no way to repair it, is there any way to recover the data on it?

Any help would be much appreciated!Have you tried that drive on another computer?

TRY this: remove the seagate drive and put that WD drive in as master. Remember to change the jumper settings on the WD.

Hello,

I'm an avid World of Warcraft player, and a YEAR ago, I purchased the SteelSeries World of Warcraft MMO Gaming mouse. For a year, I used and loved the device, finding no issue with it. However, it did finally cease to function, and I replaced the mouse with a warranty still in effect. So, here, I have a new mouse, and it's identical to the previous one.

However, there are ISSUES with this new one.

The mouse overs a wide selection of buttons, ranging from STANDARD Mouse Buttons 1-5, and then some. The problem is, though, no matter how I set the program that was coupled with the device, some actions just aren't taking. For instance, though in the program only one button is supposed to behave as Mouse Button 5, there are two others who activate the same functions when pressed. One is supposed to act as Mouse Button 4, and the other is just plain disabled.

In short, if a mouse fails to take to the setup of the program it comes with, is the device faulty, or is it something with the program?

Thanks,
MNeidig.Did you REINSTALL the driver or did you just plug the new mouse in and start playing with it?

i have a disgo netbook which is pretty new. one day i turned it on and at the boot screen it said touch pad failed to initialize and then log in page loads and mouse doesn't move or react to touching the touchpad so no point ! I can't even click restart or ANYTHING so i end up resetting it or taking out the BATTERY. anyone have any ideas how to fix it Is it still under warranty?think so but don't have original power pack it came with so can't exchange it. A shot of COMPRESSED air does wonders for cleaning pet hair and dust out of the touchpad sensors. If you remove the keyboard you'll get an even better shot. Be very careful when you remove the keyboard! Find your computer manufacturer's INSTRUCTIONS and follow them carefully. The manual that came with your computer should have instructions on how to do this. If you don't have the manual, you can usually find it online at your computer manufacturer's WEBPAGE.

If that doesn't work, try reconfiguring your touchpad's driver. Try the various options in Control Panel --> Mouse applet.

Also, you can buy a usb mouse that will plug into any of your laptop's usb ports. will try all options thanks very much!

I have a printer that can use BLUETOOTH or WiFi printing, and have been leaning toward Bluetooth because of the shorter RANGE I need. My question is if Bluetooth is FAST enough for all kinds of printing, including photos.

I am only going with Bluetooth for security reasons, as it COVERS a shorter area.

ThanksI prepared here a link which you can read about bluetooth device. Advantages And Disadvantages of Bluetooth device Read it and decide.

Additional link: Bluetooth PrintersThanks for  the reply. As long as Bluetooth is fast enough for printing photos, I might give it a try.

System:     HP Pavilion
Model:       A6600f
Operating: Vista Home Premium (x86 64-bit), Service Pack 2, BUILD 6002
CPU:          Pent Dual E2200 2.20GHz
Video:       NVIDIA GeForce 7100 / NVIDIA nForce 930i
RAM:         3GB RAM
New HD:   Samsung HD320KJ ATA

Just installed the drive above in the above system.
Booted system "New Hardware Found", "INSTALLING Drivers", reboot to finish install.
Device Manager SAYS  "This device is working properly."
When I open the "Computer Tab" the drive is not listed.
The HP Hardware Diagnostic can see the drive (ST31500341AS ATA Device) 1.36TB
I was a little worried about power SUPPLY problems. System has 250W Power Supply but only uses 130W.
Any help that can be given would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for reading this. You need to format it in Disk Management

I am working on an Aopen COMPUTER. 5 years old, s651 motherboard socket 478 Pentium 4.  Seagate Baracuda 40gb HD.

It started with the dvd rom drives not working.  I was going to reinstall drivers but the computer kept freezing.  Nothing was opening I couldnt run any virus scans etc.. I decided to just reformat the hard drive and do a clean install of windows xp.  So I get 89% through the format process and the computer shuts down.  re tried this a couple times and the same thing.  thinking it was a PSU problem I tried one I knew was good and the same thing happened.  Now the computer wont even start when I push the power button.  It acts like its about to start up then dies.  If Iet it set for awhile then try it will start up but if I try to install windows again the same thing happens it shuts down.  Any suggestions?

check ur motherboard and see if u have any blown capacitors..... something like this but with a crusty substance on top. if u do have some, u have a bad motherboard.

http://media.photobucket.com/image/capacitor bad/andrewsb62/samsung lcd bad capacitors/DSC_4554.jpg?o=7" target="_blank">http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt331/andrewsb62/samsung%20lcd%20bad%20capacitors/DSC_4554.jpg" border="0">[/URL] 


JUST CLICK ON THE IMAGE..
Just a suggestion, but it seems like it could be an overheating problem. Make sure your CPU fan is running when you turn the computer on. Also take the heat sink off and make sure there is enough thermal compound on it. Make sure the fan in your power supply is coming on too.
Quote from: giardmi09 on March 16, 2010, 10:15:28 PM

Also take the heat sink off and make sure there is enough thermal compound on it.

Had the same problem with my old Acer laptop. Since windows automaticaly speeds up your fan and underclocks (lowers) your CPU speed in case of too much heat (temperature limit depends on the CPU brand/frequency/etc... usually 50-70'C) and shuts down your computer completely in case of getting past the critical limit (~97'C in my case!) it was nearly impossible to reinstall windows since there is no software to adjust the fan/CPU to a stable temperature (unless you can adjust this in your BIOS) you won't even get pass the format process.. the way I did it was outdoors in winter so it kept it just hot enough to stay on and finish the installation;)

Upon closer inspection of the capicitors on the Motherboard I noticed one of them has the thin metal cover loose and close to comming off.  Could this be the problem?

Ok here's the prob ... I got NV GF FX 5200 256 MB, when i use www.canyourunit.com and check 'crysis' (for an example) EVERYTHING is green (CPU, Ram, video mb's, etc.) BUT it requires 6800+ ALTHOUGH i got the GHZ, Ram mb's and vid mb's ...  What is up with that ?
  So more to the POINT - could you recommend any good alternative for my v.card ? I got agpX8 input so that kinda narrows it down ...
  Please help. I cant play games although my specs fit for them ... ;(((




Post edited for content.

the GPU used by the 5200 is too at the given operations, even though it can still be used for the feature.

it's sort of like how a Pentium 3 at any speed will always be outperformed by a Pentium 4 of any speed.

As for recommendations re: the card, for the GAME you need a 6800GT or a Radeon 9800 Pro or higher. I know the Radeon 9800 is available in AGP... don't know what ELSE is.Few Links on some AGP graphics cards for gaming, cards listed there may be bit outdated, but still good:

• LINK 1
• LINK 2

I have an All-in-Wonder HD (Radeon 3650) video card that I purchased last year and still haven't hooked up.  I'm getting close to putting it in a PC but having never worked with a card like this before I am having a hard time figuring out things that are probably very basic.  I hope you will help.

First, the card has an HDMI and DVI output.  I can't use HDMI because all of my equipment is too OLD.  My HD TV has a DVI input.  If I understand correctly because this card is HDCP ready its signal will be viewable on the TV when connected to the DVI port.  Is that true?

Second, since I can't use the HDMI connector I don't know how to get sound out of the card.  Is there a way in the software for the card for it to allow the computer's onboard sound to do the processing?

Third, when I hook my digital cable box up this card will it pick up all of the channels that I get?  Will the HD channels remain in high definition or are they CONVERTED to standard definition?

I thought adding this card was a pretty easy upgrade and a very SIMPLE concept to GRASP but the more I read the more confused I am about how it works and what it can do.

Thanks for helping shed some light on the situation for me.

MJGiven that you do have HDMI on the card output but are going to an older TV (which should most certainly have RCA). What about this:
http://www.uxcell.com/hdmi-hdtv-vga-hd15-rca-converter-adapter-cable-p-30739.html
truenorthThanks for the reply.  ATI support was able to walk me through a config that will work for me. Since the TV has a DVI input I will connect the video card to the DVI input (not sure if I will use the DVI out or HDMI out) and will then enable audio through the motherboard using the SPDIF out.

It should set up pretty nice. 

MJEnjoy,truenorth

sys info

IDE 40gb hdisk
ddr2 2gb 6400
amd athlon 64x dual core 4000+
built in VGA
500watts psu
jetway m26gt3-svp mobo

my problem is simple!

my computer doesn't POWER ON for a certain hour!

i got BRAND new psu installed
brand new RAM
the rest OLD stuff
help me determine what's causing it!
its frustrated...! help!





you mean that your computer at specific times of the day, you can't power on your computer while it is fine otherwise?Did you mean to say it only runs one hour? Are you USING Windows 7 RC?
When did this star?
Hew OFTEN has this happened?
Where do you live? Are you on 120 VOLTS or 240 volts? Are there scheduled "brown outs" in your area?
Are you the only administrator of the PC?
Have you don a virus scan lately?

Hi, I wanted to KNOW if its possible to upgrade ONES video card. I just bought Resident

Evil 4 and it requires an ATI 9200 IGP, the problem is that I have a 9000 and the game

wont load ANYTHING but the HUD.... is there any way of upgrading my video card t0

9200 without having to buy another one?... or at least an efficinet way of

emulating it so the pc thinks its a 9200 even though it isnt?

My PC:
Win XP Professional 2002 SP3, 3.06 GHz, 1gig ram. If you need any other info, PLZ ask! If there was an EFFICIENT way of emulating faster hardware then the faster hardware is obviously not very useful.

The SHORT answer is no. There are probably ways you can force emulation of whatever features the game needs, but I doubt the game will be very playable if you do that. (2-5 fps, anyone?)Yea there is a way to do that. It involves buying a video card. Sorry but it seems you are out of luck.wow, I guess it sucks, But thanks for answering my doubts!

Hi all,

Recently I bought a new power supply of 550W.
When I tried to CONNECT the 20 pins CORD from the Power Supply to the motherboard,
I saw there was an additional 4-pin head going TOGETHER with the 20-pin head, and I noticed the warning MESSAGE: only for 24-pin Socket.
I do not know what this mean.
Still, I chose not to plug it (the additional 4-pin socket), turned my PC on,
and saw the windows RUN steadily without problem.

I saw my Motherboard can support the additional 4 pins.
I am not sure if I shall plug it to the motherboard or not.

Please help if you could.
Thank you.

Kitty
You say: Quote

only for 24-pin Socket.
I do not know what this mean.

I saw my Motherboard can support the additional 4 pins.

Recently I bought a new power supply of 550W.

Here are the specification, and Feature of the new PSU:

Specification:
Type: ATX V2.2 / 2.3 (EPS 12V 2.91 for 900W / 1050W)
Input Voltage: 100V~240V
Input Current: 550~750W: Max 10A; 900~1050W: Max 13A

I don't know if it will do any harm to the PC if a 24-pin socket on the motherboard is connected to a 20-pin connector.

Hi, I am having trouble with my pc headset with microphone, The people I am trying to talk to on my Call of DUTY 4 cannot hear me. I right clicked on the speaker icon and WENT to recording devices and everything seems ok. any idea's? Also I am running Windows 7 OS.

Allrighty!

So I've GOT this Compaq Deskpro EN Series desktop. It was purchased from eBay a long time ago and it's a project machine for old school DOS gaming. Don't judge!!

Anyway, I'm working with Windows 98 SE. Everything ELSE has always worked correctly with this computer EXCEPT adding upgraded sound. I'm trying to install my Creative AWE64 (ISA slot, I believe?) and have always run into problems.

As follows.

When installing the AWE64 it does NOT disable the onboard ESS1869 and will CONFLICT, resulting in NEITHER working correctly.

My attempt at a solution was to disable the onboard ESS with my CMOS (accessed from F10 at startup) and while it is reading as disabled, and settings are saving correctly, it DOES NOT disable the ESS in the Windows environment.

All right, so I tried disabling the ESS and it's controller from the device manager in Windows. This TEMPORARILY worked, and then it basically reset itself and began conflicting again, disabling the AWE64.

So, I have a simple question. How does one DISABLE the onboard sound? Theorhetically, if the ESS1869 is no longer even picked up, it shouldn't conflict with the AWE64. It's worth noting the AWE64 itself is NOT the problem and is in working ORDER. It's been in three seperate machines without issues. Quote from: sherbert85 on March 17, 2010, 10:24:15 PM

So, I have a simple question. How does one DISABLE the onboard sound? Theorhetically, if the ESS1869 is no longer even picked up, it shouldn't conflict with the AWE64. It's worth noting the AWE64 itself is NOT the problem and is in working order. It's been in three seperate machines without issues.

I have a 2tb Mybookworld network drive that never really worked right (refurb from ebay) and eventually it got to where it will power up but will not recognize on the network.  I tried new CABLES, switch, 'map network drive' nothing worked.  Ok fine.

So I can remove the drives, install them into my regular WD external drive and 'Disk Management' sees the drive, shows 5 partitions, correct drive size, etc. but will not give a drive letter.  I can right click on the partions and I can delete the partitions, but 'format' is grayed out.  In the process of trying back and forth emails with WD, they mentioned that the drives are formatted in Linux.  Ok....

What I WANT to do is install the drives into my external, format to NTFS (fat32...whatever) , then buy EMPTY external network cases from ebay, install the drives into those and use them on my network, and be done with this WD crap. 

If you leave DOS/Linux/ect. directions, please be detailed and SPECIFIC.  thankyou in advance.1st.  You bought the WD My Book World from eBay and are having issues.
2nd.  Now you want to remove the hard drive from the WD and buy an external network case from eBay.
Why you want to buy anything from eBay?

I suggest reading the User Manual very carefully.
There are 6 LED indicator lights on the front panel, what do they say?
http://www.wdc.com/wdproducts/library/UM/ENG/4779-705013.pdfCan anyone else give me some help?  COMPUTER Commando doesn't have any answers, only more questions and comments.Check out this help from WD.
Trust me, I have been down every avenue before doing this.  I guess I'll just have someone do it when I get home.

Hello,
I bought an Acer laptop in Dec ’09. Within a few days it began to freeze when I was online. I thought it might be because it was new and it did indeed stop and until last week the laptop froze maybe 3 or 4 times.
However, in the last week it has started freezing again. Sometimes I can get an hour or two before it freezes but usually I get 20 mins tops and sometimes it even freezes within minutes of turning it back on , before I can even connect to the internet. Today I have been online for 2 hours and it has frozen 7 times. (Twice while attempting to post this). My only option is to hold down the power button until it switches off.

Also for the past 4 days when I click my connection icon in the desktop it says ‘no network’ but I can connect by going to Internet Options>Connections in IE or Firefox. Has the freezing caused this I wonder? It hasn’t happened before.

Any help would be great. I work from home and need access to the internet all day so this is very annoying.

Thanks, JJ.I would be returning it under Warranty...JJ

Patio is right about returning it for warranty work.... however some software problems are not cover by warranty so i would be sure it was a problem that is cover.......

I could be just wasting time but Here a few suggestions I would try....
  Run a full system virus scan.... their some freebies listed in the software discussions under VIRUSES  they work real well....
If you alreaddy have a virus scanner make sure it up to date....... I would also try one of the freebies...... CANT hurt to make sure your system is clean....
 I would also made sure i didnt have a over heating problem.... their a LINK for speedfan available also......that will give u idea of how hot your laptop is getting.....

 

 Scanned for viruses and found nothing. It's still freezing so I guess I'll have to send it back but I don't know what I'll do without internet access     I will try the speedfan though just incase.  Try  speed fan..... it cant hurt.....

 You stated that it started in 09 after purchase... then stop and started back in the last week.....

Prior to it beginning again.... has any hardware/Software been aded?
No, nothing added. I just DOWNLOADED speedfan and the CPU is looking strange. It's jumping from 2% to 56% and back with just IE running.
 I also see another post from someone who is experiencing freezing and they too have an Acer. I wonder is it a weakness in their products?Did you notice the temp?
ON the main page of speedfan right below the CPU usage..... to the right your temps will be listed.... do they have a check mark  color arror or a flame beside them ?
To monitor the temp. click on the Charts tap at top, once there chek the  boxes...... as you use the puter..... you can let it run and check occasionally.....  and see what happening...

Open up Task manager, click on the processes tab and look on the right hand side under "Mem Usage" and see if anythhing is rapilly changing.....
 Dont end anything unless you for certain what it is........
Ditto Patio.  To have these problems so soon after a purchase is inviting headaches for a long time.

Alan <><

I need to SCRUB some harddrives to set them up in a new system and was going to use

http://www.dban.org/
boot and nuke

to scrub them. I have 2 quick questions. 1. after scrubbing the hdd can they be reformatted to NTFS and used again?

2. Do you KNOW of any other free software that WOULD maybe work a little better/faster?


ThanksYou can test and then FORMAT the hard drives with the manufacturers' software.
http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287