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My Acer Aspire One's screen is damaged and I was wondering, what's the BEST website for replacement laptop screens?Hello helper, I found this site with quite a few replacement parts for Acers. Have a look and see if it is suitable for you.

And this one seems to have a really large inventory.eBay is a CHEAPER and more vast place to find replacement LCD screens. I found one for under $50 for a 17-inch laptop a few years back. Thanks guys. I think I'm going to try eBay. I'll LET you guys know when (and if) I fix my laptop.Yep, I've found Ebay heaps cheaper for a lot of things like that too just lately.

Good LUCK with your Laptop.

i have a faulty atx psu with the green wire, can i replace the atx with the psu with a grey wire if i brige from grey to ground to get it to start up

i have it installed in the machine now and the MOTHERBOARD light is on and the fans are running only i DONT have any video out

no signal
and  monitor GOES into power save MODE

Hi i`ve a number of mobile phone videos that i would like to convert to be able to play on a DVD recorder, how can i do this? you could look for a VIDEO converter program to convert your files from your phone to VOB files

Well, I've had some problems, I've been fixing them from google, but this one is... High for me Tongue

So, SINCE I have 2 computers in house (LAPTOP and pc), I'm USING switch to have internet on both (Air Live- FSH8PS v3   8-port switch). Since I started  using it, can only browse internet in Firefox, in IE and Chrome it doesn't load pages, and when I try to sign in on Windows Live Messenger, I can't. When I go to Troubleshoot on Messenger, it says "Your gateway appears to be offline". So, I THINK that switch is making it impossible to use internet PROGRAMS except Firefox, but I really want Chrome  Cry

Just started building a new PC, wanted to know if the Audigy 2 ZS Soundblaster Sound card is BETTER than the Realtek ALC888 HD audio 2/4/5.1/7.1 that comes on the Motherboard? (GIGABYTE GA-770T-USB3).
The only advise I can give you is to try the on board sound before buying a card. I guess it depends a little on what ou are going to use it for.

 The last few builds I have done I just used the on board sound with a 2 speaker/sub setup and they all sounded just fine.I have the soundblaster surround system from my old system and I have the PCI slot for it and I got the front case unit mounted so I'll give it a try  THANKS

The start/task bar is no LONGER along the bottom of the screen with all the DESKTOP icons above it so I can look at it STRAIGHT in front of me.

The start/task bar is now along the left hand side of the screen with the icons also appearing to lay on their side.  It would look right if I balanced the laptop like a book on its left side.

Thought I had pressed Ctrl-Alt-Del when it suddenly happened !!

I have an acer Travelmate 240.

All help gratefuly received.im not too sure about this, but i think i have an idea to fix your problem... right click on yout desktop screen, click graphics properties, and then choose the tad that had the allignment. It has 90 degrees, 18 degress e.t.c you might have acidentaly changes it. hope that helps!try control +alt+ arrow keys. Its a feature of the graphics driver. If that DOESNT work try uninstalling and reinstalling the driver.

If COMPUTER not able to remember its date and TIME the whiich hardware problem itMaybe the battery on your motherboard is gone?

Please elaborate a bit more. Do you mean your BIOS time or...? Part # CR 2032...available most anywhere.




As ALWAYS when working inside the case REMOVE all power sources and take anti-ststic PRECAUTIONS...

Recently, an intermittent high-pitched noise has been coming from somewhere on my motherboard; I have to restart for it to go away. I've swapped power supplies, so I know it's not that. For some reason, it's almost guaranteed to happen while watching flash videos for a few hours. ALSO, whenever the ear-bleeding squeal starts, my onboard audio stops working. The FREQUENCY is too great for me to pinpoint with my earholes exactly where it's coming from though. Is a whole NEW motherboard the only/cheapest solution to this?I had one that did the same thing; it was the audio card.  Since yours is onboard audio, you'll have to replace the motherboard.  Depending on the cpu & memory, you WANT one that USES the same.Man, that's what I was afraid of. I DEMAND A BETTER SOLUTION. one that doesn't involve spending a hundred bucks. just kidding. thanks for the reply.Does system BIOS allow you to disable the on-board audio?  Perhaps you could replace it with an add-on card.

I have a new Cool Max 650w PS, and the 24v plug is 4 pin, my board is 8 pin. It WORKS ok, but I wanting a new MB, and the one I want is 8 pin also,....is this a major ISSUE? Is there an adaptor?I suspect that your psu does have the 8 pin plug - but it's 2 x 4 that you 'clip' together.

Take a look here - look up your own psu. http://www.coolmaxusa.com/productDetailsPower.asp?item=NW-450&details=spec&subcategory=120mm&category=single

Post back if you have any problems and GOOD Luck!I looked, and seems to be one there...but I couldn't find it. I'll look again. Thanks.Its a Cool Master, and it only has a 4 pin  12v plug. Hmmm...thought that I had responded to this

Can't find a psu manufacturer = Cool Master; do you mean Coolermaster?

What mfg and model?

I have a Dell XPS desktop system that is a little over a year old (I think)...

the other night I ran the windows dos based program that does many things...the thing I had it do was overwrite "free" disk space.Cipher.exe is the program that i used...i used the /w command .... from what researched I covered it appeared to be the command I wanted to use.

Anyhow, I woke up the next morning with a frozen screen. I simply shut down the system and turned it back on. From that moment on and now the computer will turn on BUT the monitor won't turn on w/ it, the keyboard and mouse are not detected and the fans are going at full force. The fans sound like they would when you FIRST cut on the computer for like the first few seconds but, it continues the whole time till you hold the power button for 5 sec and it shuts off. I tried to check the hardware to make sure everything was intact...it appears to be.

I guess its not going through the "POST" system

nothing is reading...monitor/keyboard/mouse

the fans are staying at full force

there is no motherboard error beeps when powered up

I can't enter BIOS or windows AT ALL, remember, the monitor is not reading, but it does work w/ my other computer as well as the keyboard/mouse...its just the xps, not the other stuff

any help would be lovedSounds to me that you have used cipher to successfully wipe your entire hard drive...
Use a bootable floppy and at the A: prompt type C:\ and hit Enter...
At the C: prompt type dir /p and hit Enter....
This will report the CONTENTS and directories on that drive.I dont have a prompt

monitor is not responding...i reseated the v-card...i tested all my monitors on my other system, they work fine

i dont have an A drive btw... just cd/DVD-roms

I am sure I could bootleg this one on this computer to the xps BUT, its pointless w/out being able to see anything

I used the /w OPTION, its only suppose to wipe areas that's already deleted or "free"/bumping for HOPEFUL helpTry f1/or f2 on boot Quote from: bigdawg24 on July 26, 2008, 02:24:39 PM

/bumping for hopeful help

i have had a Gateway laptop running with Windows Vista for about 6 months now. I have had no problem with the Disk Drive up until now. Out of the blue yesterday it suddenly stopped being able to detect the presence of CDs. I have tried a number of disks and none of them have worked. When I clcik on the DVD Drive section in 'My Computer' with a CD in the laptop, it simply says 'Please insert a disk into DVD Drive (F:).'
Any help would be much appreciatedIf this is recent, Try using System Restore and restore your computer to a few days before the problem.

If that doesn't work, try reinstalling the drivers for the CD/DVD Drive.i have done both of these and they have had no effect
Any new hardware installed?
Have you downloaded/installed/run anything before it happened?

Basically, what were you doing before the problem?i took the laptop in the car and ripped some music cds somewhere else
i have done this before however
when i got it home again i turned it on and the CD drive would not work
Delete the upper lower filter of the optical drive
Follow the instructions below.

Log on to Windows by using an account that has administrator rights and PERMISSIONS. Then, follow these steps.

Step 1: Start Registry Editor
Click Start, click Run, type regedit, and then click OK. Registry Editor starts.

Step 2: Delete the UpperFilters registry entry
1.   In Registry Editor, expand My Computer, and then expand HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE.
2.   Expand SYSTEM, and then expand CurrentControlSet.
3.   Expand CONTROL, and then expand Class.
4.   Under Class, click {4D36E965-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}.
5.   In the right pane (topic area), click UpperFilters.

Note An UpperFilters.bak registry entry may also appear. To delete the UpperFilters registry entry, you must click UpperFilters and not UpperFilters.bak.
6.   On the Edit menu, click Delete.
7.   When you receive the following message, click Yes to confirm the deletion of the UpperFilters registry entry:
Are you SURE you want to delete this value?
The UpperFilters registry entry is removed from the {4D36E965-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318} registry subkey.

Note Do not exit Registry Editor. You must have this program for the next step.
Step 3: Delete the LowerFilters registry entry
1.   In Registry Editor, expand My Computer, and then expand HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE.
2.   Expand SYSTEM, and then expand CurrentControlSet.
3.   Expand Control, and then expand Class.
4.   Under Class, click {4D36E965-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}.
5.   In the right pane (topic area), click LowerFilters.

Note An LowerFilters.bak registry entry may also appear. To delete the LowerFilters registry entry, you must click LowerFilters and not LowerFilters.bak.
6.   On the Edit menu, click Delete.
7.   When you receive the following message, click Yes to confirm the deletion of the LowerFilters registry entry:
Are you sure you want to delete this value?
The LowerFilters registry entry is removed from the {4D36E965-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318} registry subkey.
8.   Exit Registry Editor.
Step 4: Restart the computer
If a CD recording program no longer works after you restart the computer, you must reinstall the CD recording program.

taken from

http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb%3Ben-us%3B314060


*****If the doesnt work update the firmware of the drive****
HTHit was a physical thing to do with a connection in the drive and is working after REMOVING and carefully replacing the drive
thank-you very much for your help

i dont know what one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102747 or this one becuase it has alone in the dark and with the rebate only about 3 or 4 more then the 1ST one
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121253i personally don't LIKE ati, but with gpu's (as with most pc parts) go with the best performance to PRICE ratio. they seem to be the same card, just by different companies. so in this case, i would go with the sapphire 4850.Get either one, if the bundled game with the ASUS appeals to you then get the Asus.
Both companies are very good, but there won;t be any performance difference or anything, they seem to have the same cooler too.i think ill get the asus for the game or i could get this other one for 170 and can get a free ati remotedo you think its worth it to get the 4870 instead or get ANOTHER 4850 later for crossfireIf you have the money, get a 4870, it's much faster.
Then you can go Crossfire with 2x4870 rather than 2x4850 later on.

Hi how do i CONVERT VIDEOS recorded on a mobile phone into ones that can play on any pc, WITHOUT the SAMSUNG pc studio software.

Does Maxtor provide hard drive utilities? If so, how can I find them; searching has so far been useless.

I'm FAMILIAR only with WD. They have a site that provides support, with downloadable utilities that
(1) check the conditionof a drive
(2) prepare a drive for use, very quickly.

I have a new 250G Maxtor IED drive to put into an important Win98 system. Basic Windows tools will not handle such a large drive properly. I've previoiusly done with WD drives what I now NEED to do with the Maxtor (basically create several FAT32 PARTITIONS that Win98 can use: a primary DOS partition for the OS and an extended DOS partition containing several logical partitions) so I know there is no basic problem -- unless Maxtor does not provide the support.Maxtor has been bought out by Seagate...check their site for the utilities using the part # on your drive...http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287

Hi, i have been working on computers for about 5 years and never had this problem. Ever SINCE i built a computer in 2006, i have had a problem with it reporting boot failure and system registry problems. I have swapped out RAM, power supply(after failure), motherboard, Video card, and gone through 2 hard drives, and it still comes up. I have also switched xp for vista, and it KEEPS on reporting. The computer works for about 2 days after i reinstall everything. My question is, could the Processor be causing a problem like this, or could my luck be that i get faulty hardware

AMD Athlon 64 3500+ socket 939
Foxconn NF4SK8AA-8KRS 939 NVIDIA nForce4 SLI ATX AMD Motherboard
EVGA 256-P2-N615-TX GeForce 7600GT 256MB 128-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 SLI Supported Video Card
SAMSUNG HD250HJ 250GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
CORSAIR XMS 2GB (2 x 1GB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory
500w Power Supply
Windows Vista Home Premium 32 bitSounds like you first built a computer in2006 and subsequently changed ALL OF THE COMPONENTS except the CPU; yet, have had the same error persist.

If the above is correct, seems to me that the probabilities point to the CPU as the error source.Ya thats what the really weird thing is, and you wouldnt think it would come up with an error like that. I am ordering a cheap 939 processor to see if it makes a DIFFERENCE. I would be stumped and trash it if the processor is not the problem. lolI guess that it could just be bad Karma

Post back when you get your new CPU.

Best of luck!The Computer is running flawlessly with a new AMD Athlon 64 4000+. Great! Thanks for posting back!

I'm looking at used/refurbished computers. What should I look out for in terms of ripoff? If it's refurbished, could I be buying a lemon? If it's used, would it come full of viruses? I know I should be cautious, but there's a LINE between caution and being paranoid. Any thoughts? Thanks.
ASlater Quote from: aslater on July 24, 2008, 03:48:16 PM

If it's refurbished, could I be buying a lemon? If it's used, would it come full of viruses?

Important that you see the beast running

What should I look out for in terms of ripoff?

...INTEL XEON  DUAL 2.0GHZ HT
...

My wife rebooted her computer today, and now it will not start. It has some sort of POWER, it is the main connection to the MODEM, and my computer is connected as a secondary computer. When I unplug the power cord to her computer, I lose the internet connection on my computer. Also, there is a green light on the BACK that STAYS on even when I unplug the power cord. It is a Compaq SR1910NX running Windows XP.

Hi,
I have two DIMMs of 512 MB DDR each. i purchased the second one some days ago. I installed the new RAM and it worked fine. Had no problems at that time.

I also purchased new SATA Seagate HDD of 160 GB about 3 months ago. But it has got bad sectors so i had removed it, and, i have been working with my 8 GB old Seagate HDD. The HDD is another issue for which i will POST another topic.

So 2 days ago, i had to take some data out of my bad HDD. So i cleaned my PC of some dust(I do that in few days), and then plugged in, the bad SATA HDD. When i powered up, it gave the same error as it is giving now i.e. when i power up the PC, it says:

Maximum memory performance is achieved with matched DIMMs.
The installed amount of memory in channel A is not equal to the amount of(further message was truncated, couldnt see what was written ahead).
Press any key to continue..

When i PRESSED a key, then it says:
CMOS/GPNV checksum bad
CMOS Date/Time not set

Then i have to get into BIOS, set the date and time and also the boot order, and save the changes. And then the PC boots up fine.
But everytime i shutdown and start the PC, again it starts showing the same message. I have reseated the DIMMs too.

Why is this happening? About 8 MB i think goes for the video memory, so it shows 1016 MB of RAM on startup. Uptill now the PC was working fine. Why the error now? I have also removed the bad HDD.

Looking forward to answers.

My PC is assembled, with Intel P-IV processor, 1024 MB DDR RAM (512 MB * 2).

Thanks,

AnupamDate time settings lost usually means that your CMOS battery is dead. Try replacing it and see what happens (It may even help with the other error) Quote from: hmar on July 24, 2008, 06:52:56 AM

Date time settings lost usually means that your CMOS battery is dead. Try replacing it and see what happens (It may even help with the other error)

whats the best type of ram?? i understand 1060 will HELP oc your cpu BETTER i think im going to try to oc the Q6600 im getting to about 1ghz do you think 800 will do just fine with that?? proabably a 2gb stick this board i think HTTP://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128344&Tpk=GA-EP45-DS3R

i have an hp compaq 6535b and i'm having power cord/charging issues.  i initially THOUGHT that it was just a power cord issue but i BORROWED an iGo universal power cord from a co-worker and for a few days it worked with no problems.  Now i have to try repeatedly to unplug and plug in the cord to the computer and if i am lucky it will work for a bit.  Just now I turned the computer upside down to check the model number and now it appears to be holding a charge and powering up (if the small yellow power light on the laptop is any indication.)  I read on a Compaq Presario R3000 thread that that computer has similiar problems, however, it is not the power cord but rather the power plug needing to be resoldered to the motherboard. I also have had a bit of an electrical issue with the computer since the first month I got it.  Immediately after I plug of unplug the power I cannot touch the computer mouse for about 10-15 seconds - if I do, it opens or resizes screens, flickers the screens, opens the start menu of does all of the above and occasionally freezes up.  It also overheats and I use a cooling pad for it.  I smoke in the house and have cats.  So, what's the question?What do I do?  Go and buy a new power cord?  Ask to have the *censored* thing soldered?  Where do I take it?  What do I say?  How much will it cost?There are REPAIR shops that specialize in REPLACING laptop power RECEPTACLES, if that's what's wrong.  Laptops are usually not user serviceable, because everything is small and packaged tightly.

Hi,

I've got a removable hard drive.....500GB LACIE....which has been GREAT, although I now have a problem in that my laptop is not recognising it.  The hard drive itself powers up and connects through a USB cable....the light comes on, the laptop makes noises as if to recognise it and then nothing.  My Computer shows not external device. However, in Administrative Tools/Computer Management...Disk1 is there a clear as day...healthy and active...of course I can't access it from this position ! Also, I view my photos on HP Image Zone and that recognises the E:/LACIE drive when I go to view pictures.  Can anyone help...how do I get my laptop to recognise the hard drive in My Computer ?

Thanks in advance...I am running on XP by the way....this happens to my camera as well, when it isn't recognised on the main system.Is the drive it is plugged into "E:\"? If so, try clicking the start button, run, and type: "E:\" (without quotes).
Can you access the FILES now?

But to get the problem sorted.....
Try going to Control Panel, Device Manager. Do you see the name of the hard drive under "disk DRIVES" or "universal serial bus controllers"?Thanks for the reply...

I have tried the "E:/" in the Run command...but nothing comes up except "This file does not have a program associated with it for performing this action.  Create an association in the File Options control panel"

When I go to Device Manager....under disk drives there is a Toshiba drive (my laptop hard drive i presume) and another one comes up when I plug the removable hard drive in (SAMSUNG HD501LJ USB Device)....the removable hard drive is nothing to do with SAMSUNG !!!

Not sure what to do now ?Well...it doesn't look good !!.....I've just managed to open the E:/ by going to Control Panel...Administrative Tools...Computer Management...and then Disk management...and there is my removable hard drive...sitting on the E:/ drive !! I clicked right and opened it and it comes up with the disk files..but there is a problem in that I can't copy my updated files (in My Documents) into the removable disk, as it says that the file names are too long and then it just renames them and gives them another file name !!

So you cant copy and paste the files to the HD?

Try SELECTING all the files you want (click on the files while holding CTRL or SHIFT), right click on them, and select "send to". Does your hard drive come up in the list?

What does it rename the files to?

Hi,

I just built a new computer with gaming in mind, specifically crysis. I was playing with the settings maxed out (tricked the game into allowing very high settings on windows xp) and had been playing for about 4 -5 hours straight when the computer suddenly froze up in game - the type of freeze where the sound loops really really fast forever. I restarted the computer, logged into my account, and the pc froze again (same type of freeze) a few seconds after loading the desktop (however, it didn't completely finish loading the desktop when it froze). I thought it might be due to overheating, so I let it sit for awhile and tried logging in again. This time, it was stable, but when I went to youtube to watch some videos, it froze after about 2 mins of video...more rebooting and youtube...after a few times through this, I noticed it tends to freeze when trying to adjust the volume or skipping ahead on the video, though not always. I let it sit overnight and the next day the same THING happened, though it took a little while to get it to freeze up again while watching videos. After getting it to freeze for the first time (if it hasn't been on in awhile), it usually freezes during the loading of the desktop.

Here's an interesting bit too...one time I loaded up the desktop and it didnt freeze, so I decided to just sit around and wait for it to freeze (to see if it would do it just idling). It didn't freeze after 20 mins, so i tried to back up my Hdd using an external drive (which im also having some random unrelated issues with getting it to be detected - isn't getting detected on other systems so it seems unrelated to this one)...since it wasn't being detected, I tried to test the usb ports i was using with a game controller...as soon as i plugged the controller into the usb port, the computer froze like it has been doing. I backed up all the data i needed and then wiped the HD and reinstalled windows to rule out driver conflicts as the HD is from an older system (somewhat extreme I know, but I've been meaning to do it anyways)...windows installed just fine, no problems, no freezes for over 2 hours while wiping and installing, but as soon as I loaded the mobo drivers from the stock CD, it froze again.

After freezing and restarting, I check the cpu and mobo temps through bios and get readings of around 40 C for the CPU and 34-38 C for the mobo. The graphics card does not seem unreasonably warm for its model.  I had made a pretty clear path for the air before I even tried turning the pc on for the first time, so airflow through the case may not be the problem. I'm using the stock cpu fan to cool the cpu (its a core 2 duo processor), and the thermal paste is also stock - however, the thermal paste does not entirely cover the processor due to the way its applied on the cpu fan. I'd say it covers about 90% of the cpu, with only the edges of the cpu not having any on it (its applied in a circular "blob" fashion). I also tried blowing a big clean, regular-old fan directly onto the heasink from point blank, yet it still froze when watching videos. I've ordered a new fan and some arctic silver and I'm gonna try rolling back all the drivers and flashing BIOS in the morning to rule out BIOS/driver conflicts, but in the meantime, is there anything else I can do to rule out other potential problems? Thanks!

Windows XP home edition SP2
Core 2 Duo Intel processor E8400 (LGA775)
Asus P5Q mobo
XFX geForce gtx 260 896 Mb graphics card (single)
2 Gb DDR2 pc2-8500 Crucial Ballistix Ram - Kit (2 one gig sticks)
Maxtor 160 gb SATA HDD
Rosewill 600W Performance series PSU
CD/DVD burner/player, Floppy Drive

Almost forgot, one last question...my mobo has an option of plugging in an 8 pin power connecter for the CPU (instead of 4 - in fact, it's two 4 pin connecters SIDE by side). The PSU also has two 4 pin CPU connecters, but I wasn't sure if my particular CPU was made to support that much power(manuals didn't say anything about it either), so I just plugged in the traditional 4 pin connecter for the CPU...not sure if this could have caused a problem or not, but like I said, it was fine for over 4 hours and it still semi-works now...

It's possible the problem IS caused by the HDD- I personally had a HD years ago that would cause my computer to freeze- turned out it had developed some bad sectors. One telltale sign (for me) was that the HD light would remain on as the computer froze. Doesn't prove the HD is at fault. Try a Chkdsk /r to scan for *and attempt repair) of bad sectors.


It's also possible the graphics card overheated during the marathon run of the game, and caused permanent damage. No way to really prove that but try another card.

Quote from: jakkusto on July 26, 2008, 11:36:09 PM

but as soon as I loaded the mobo drivers from the stock CD, it froze again.

Sighok: Please start a new topic so that you can get the help that you need.

Quote from: drmsucks on July 27, 2008, 10:10:45 PM

Sighok: Please start a new topic so that you can get the help that you need.

I split it. It looked like he put a lot of effort into it. 

Hi. I have an Advent laptop. At first there was many beeps on startup but the laptop would start...now nothing no lights no start up "DEAD". I initially thought POWER supply, but would I get beeps from the laptop if a power supply was failing?

Is it possible to test a laptop power supply and how?  (oh by the way the power supply green light is on)

My 2nd guess is the mobo, if this is the case i am going to dump it as the machine is over three years old
I would really appreciate any help on this and thanks to all that read this thread. I am afraid that is all the info I can give at this time.

Regards
chris Remove the battery. Press and hold the power switch down for 10 seconds. With the battery removed and all peripherals unplugged, power on with the power adapter CONNECTED.

To test the power adapter, you can use a multimeter or volt meter to see if there is VOLTAGE present (≈12 vdc) when reading across the 'inside' and 'outside' of the round adapter plug while the adapter is connected to the main power supply.ok and thanks for the prompt reply. I will have to invest in a MULTI meter. I have tried to power on with battery removed the verdict is: its still dead. Any other help please

Regards
ChrisThe ac adapter would not make your computer beep. More likely our mobo is fried. buy your can try to remove your cdrom/dvdrom,ram,hdd and keyboard(use the service manual at your manufacturers website).  after removing these turn your computer back on. If it turns on the add those devices that you remove one at a time until it gives you back the same problem. Obviously the last device that you added is the one causing the problem. But if it doesnt turn on after removing all those devices mobo problem.

If that still doesnt work well its your mobo. That beeping sound isnt a GOOD sign, usually computers beep once or twice more than that more likely a HW problem. Quote from: ash41 on July 28, 2008, 12:07:41 PM

ok and thanks for the prompt reply. I will have to invest in a multi meter. I have tried to power on with battery removed the verdict is: its still dead. Any other help please

Regards
Chris

Currently I have;

Opteron 175 socket 939
ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe NF4SLI 939
HD 320G SEAGATE sata
1gbx2 Corsair TWINXMS
512mbx2 Corsair TWINXMS
EVGA GeForce 8800 GTS Superclocked 640MB GDDR3
OCZ GameXStream 700w
Windows XP

I'm thinking of upgrading to Intel, need some advice on a cpu, Mobo, and Ram.

Budget;
~$200 for a cpu
~$200 for a Mobo
~$150 for Ram

The primary function will be a gaming PC, for games LIKE First person shooters, Real Time strategy, and MMORPGs.

Any suggestions would be helpful.for your cpu i would go with a q6600 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115018motherboard - EVGA 750i $179.99

-OR-

EVGA 780i $249.99

if you DONT plan on going SLI, then the cheaper 750i is your best bet.

RAM- G Skill (2x2gb) DDR2 1066 $109.99

CPU- Intel Q6600, the same ONE computeruler gave you.

CPU Heatsink and Fan- Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme and 120mm Fan

if you do not plan to overclock your CPU, you can disregard the CPU heatsink and fan, however, you will need to purchase the retail version of the Q6600 and not the OEM version that we gave you. reason being, the retail version comes with a stock fan whereas the OEM version does not.

Hello again.
I'm that guy if anyone can remember that wanted to get the best low profile graphics card.
Anyway that GeForce 8600 works great and stuff.
So anyway when I play BF2142 everything was fine until today. I started to get PunkBusted for some stupid reason called Losing Key Packet.
So players there said that it has to do with video card.
I know that video card is fine my guess it's a power supply. I have a 280 Watt power supply.

My question basically is if I have to get a new power supply where can I get it CHEAP and a good one. Also does it have to be a special power supply? My dad was saying that it has to match like the number or smth to the old power supply but I don't think he know what he is talking about kuz he is not a pro at this stuff. I do believe him most of the time but not this time.
Thnx It's not usually your graphics card.
Get pbsetup from here and use it to manually update Punkbuster, see if that helps.
Also if you have a firewall check your SETTINGS, it may be blocking Punkbuster.
If you want a new PSU, which I would recommend strongly, Newegg is a good place.So the power supply doesn't have to be any special right? just any power supply should work just fine with any computer right?
I checked that I have only ATX 24 pin main power cable connector so I am guessing I'll have to find something like that that is small enough to fit in my Dimension C521 the slim ones :p
Just checked again that my Powersupply is like 5x5 power supply it's almost a square and a height is like 4.1/4.2

Okay I officially need a new power supply. I think mine just died. My comp won't turn on anymore it like goes on for about half of a half a second trying to turn on and then goes off so yea I'm sure it's over lol.
Any help please.
Don't you have a Dell slim case? Better check with Dell to see if you can use a 'standard' psu; also, make sure that a new psu will fit into your case.With a Dell you'll probably need a specific Dell PSU, as the pinouts are different so you're in danger of frying something if you buy a normal PSU.

I did type this before I saw the reply from drmsucks, but it's worth adding this anyway I guess. Quote from: DeathV on July 28, 2008, 01:01:42 AM

I know that video card is fine my guess it's a power supply.

That sux so you suggest getting a new computer?

I use win xp pro and I know that the new BIOS that talk back and forth to the DEVICES have a Length Limit.

What I meen is I have a Scanner and it USES a USB Cable. Do I hjave to make shure that the USB Cable I use is not more then 15 Feet?

I ask because I thought I remembered something about if a Cable is more then 15 Feet.

Something about the way a Device works is it sends Data to the COMPUTER and the computer has to send Data back to the Device. And if the Cable is more then 15 Feet you may get problems.

Or is this just with Serial Cables Quote

Due to the maximum length of the cable between two devices of 5 metres and a maximum number of 5 hubs , it is possible to create a chain 25 meters in length.

Last night I attempted to uninstall Vista and replace it with XP. I got Vista removed successfully, but at some point during the setup of XP, the computer restarted and was stuck at the very first splash screen (Alienware screen). If I press DEL within a second of the splash screen appearing, I get some BIOS information. It detects my CD Drive and my HDD, but then it stops with code 0078 at the bottom right of the screen. If I press F8 while viewing this info, a line appears that says "BOOT selection popup menu selected", but nothing happens.

I tried removing the CMOS battery for several minutes, no change.
I tried booting from several different disks, and nothing happens.
If you let it sit at the splash screen for more than a second or two, it freezes, and you can't even press DEL anymore.

I thought the HDD might be bad, but when I do get to the BIOS info screen, it says SMART shows the drive is enabled and status is OK.

I'm assuming it has something to do with a corrupted OS, but I have no idea how to fix it aside from buying a new HDD and doing a clean install.

Please HELP!Have you tried a bootable CD or DVD like Knoppix on this system to see if the system will behave as LONG as it doesnt try to boot from the HD?


 Downloading and burning Knoppix to a CD or DVd and booting your system off of it can tell you if your system is healthy for motherboard and power supply etc. If healthy then you can perform a low level format of the HD or delete the partition, and then build XP off of the HD without its Partition Table, the system will create a new partition table as if it was a clean new drive and the build should go fine as long as you dont have RAID drivers issues with XP install etc.I tried booting from an Ubuntu Live! CD. It still gets to the splash screen, the CD drive spins a little and the CD activity light flashes a bit, but then it just hangs there. It sounds to me that the CD/DVD drive is the issue here...
Borrow a KNOWN good one and swap it in there to see if this helps or not.Ok, I figured out how to fix it. The problem was that the OS on the HDD was corrupt, and I had to get the computer booted into a CD before it recognized the HDD. I put the solution at the following link:

http://boredprojects.blogspot.com/2008/07/stuck-before-boot-screen.html

Thanks for the help guys.This doesn't make sense....Ubuntu Live should have booted.I know, it was very odd. Ubuntu Live! did boot, but only after I had removed the HDD. I'm not sure what the mechanism was, but the HDD was somehow messing with the boot sequence. Whenver the HDD was installed, it would freeze at the boot screen. Without the HDD, it defaulted to the CD to boot.

Very weird.

I'm trying to install Windows on a computer I just received but the bios isn't recognizing the CD ROM drive so I can't install windows via CD. I've tried several different cable configurations and a couple of different CD ROM drives. it has power just not showing up in the bios as present.

Is there a viable way to just boot from a USB Drive and install XP from that environment just like it would be coming from a CD and figure out the CD ROM problem when I have XP installed.

The computer is a Dell OPTIPLEX GX 280 (don't laugh lol)

Here are the specs from Dell's website which was of no help as usual:

Bios Version: 02/09/05
Intel P4 HT 3.4 GHZ
1 GB DDR 533 MHZ
1 SATA HD 160 GB
Not even sure whats on the drive as I haven't been able to access it.
When the CDROM boot doesn't work it just goes to a black screen with a blinking cursor frozen like that.

Any help would be appreciated, I've run out of all my resources.

Thanks,

Andrew

Anyone have any ideas on this one?Is the boot order set to boot from the CD Drive first?Just a thought...

Are you using a digital or analog video cable to the monitor?

Quote

The hard disk format (i.e., loader) *can* affect the video when using a BartPE boot disc [a CDROM], especially with a digital video cable. Wow!

I'm just using standard cabeling that probably came with the system.

The connectors are the second type.

As far as the form factor, its just a standard town and tne bios reports not present next to the cc rom and the other sata drives that are obvioujsly not there since there is only one.

I bought a Cyberpower Gamer Ultra A102 Desktop last MONTH and sent it back to the manufacturer after 4 days of use. The desktop would suddenly shutdown for unexpectedly during normal use and eventually stopped WORKING, so I sent it back in thinking that I had a bad PSU.

I have another PC of the same model and now after only 2 weeks it is displaying the same symptoms. It will just suddenly turn off without warning and sometimes won't even startup all the way.

I'm thinking that the issue is overheating, but I'm not sure. I've been using the thing for the past two weeks without any problems.
The case isn't exactly hot, but it is warm. The fan runs often, but I believe that is because I play some graphically intense games (ex. right now I'm playing Dragon Age Origins).

So is the culprit overheating or could it be some other problem?

System Specs
OS: Windows 7 Professional
Model: Cyberpower Gamer Ultra A102
RAM: 4GB
Video Card: nVIDIA 9800GT
(excluding the video card and OS everything should be the generic stuff that comes with the factory shipped pc, so refer to that if you need any other information)

I'm currently have a house fan running on it through the holes on the side of the case. I'm about to go open the side of the case to SEE if that helps.
Exercise your warranty.Hey There:

I have pretty much the same video c ard as you and similar specs on a system I built myself a bit over 2 yrs ago. I thought I was having overheating issues, but it was actually the PSU (power supply). It wasn't able to keep up w/my system, and would exhibit the same basic problem you mention. I upgraded my cpu cooler, my gpu cooler and my fans to no avail. That's because they were already OK to begin with.

If you play intense games you are stressing all your components, thereby asking them to require large amounts of power from the PSU. It must not only be up to the task BUY 'more than equal to' what is required of it! I spent all that time and $ on extra cooling, and it was the PSU all along.

Cyber makes some really slick PC's, but they must REIGN in costs like all businesses. The PSU is one of the most expensive single components in your machine, and is also the only component that every single chip in your computer relies on to start up and run! Chances are your PSU is the weak link. Just my $.02 worth.

OK had Built my PC bout 2 yrs ago. now i decided to upgrade my meme to FOUR gigs. when installed the PC gets as far as the windows log on screen but then goes blank. everything freezes but hard drive is still running.
       when i remove one of the the meme sticks it runs but freezes during opening of processes.
       I have a Mach Speed x caliber pt88bspro. with p4 3.06 Processor, radeon 9250 agp vid card,
maxtor 200 and maxtor 300 hdds, just installed ( attempted too) 2 2gig Patriot DDR SDRAM DDR 400 dual channel kits running on 455 watts pwr.
       Your motherboard only supports 1G per slot.  You'll need four sticks of 1G each to get 4Gs.that is what i have in each slot are i gig sticks making 4 altogether. Oh, sorry, I read it wrong.
thats ok thanks for the try. What happens if you remove the newly-added RAM?ok when i took out the newly added ram it did not read the old ram.check the speed of each of your MEMORY... it must have equal speed...Sounds like you have 2 matched sets purchased at the same time. If correct, seems like many boards of that era that advertised 4 Gb could only run PROPERLY sometimes. You may want to check to see if there is a FORUM that supports your board and see if others have the same problem. Or contact them and see if your RAM is supported.

If you added to existing modules, quite often that does not work.

Best of luck.Yes they are two match sets, of the same kind.
Thnx
Observe updated patch on website, for board, going to check it out now.
it even freezes with one of the new sticks in.What about the other new stick of RAM? Boot or no boot?

Assuming that you've got the module in the proper slot, sounds like: a) wrong type or b) bad RAM.

Check your motherboard manual to see what slot one module goes into - not unusual for it to be the slot closest to the CPU. Verify the type of RAM including buffered/nonbuffered, voltage, ECC/non-ECC. If everything is correct for your motherboard, RMA the RAM.Update bios...ezethanks alot i think i am going to rma the ram.

I've had this LAPTOP since January, it's mostly WORKED fine since then. I GOT it from Ibuypower. The last few days it has been randomly crashing some games, and YESTERDAY the screen stopped turning on. I brought it into work and hooked it to an external monitor. Now, there are multi-colored lines or checkerboard ACROSS the screen, even before Vista boots up, and it BSOD's seconds after it hits the login screen. It's hosed, isn't it?

BTW I'm in Iraq, and it has a 1 year warranty but only from the 48 states.


Post edited for content...keep it clean.

Hello I am new here and I ham having some issues with my computer and wanted to bump heads to see what you guys may think...here is the issue I got a computer from a friends after she had gotten a new one, it worked FINE at first and when she had it. I TOOK it apart to clean out the dust it get it all pretty, after all this is my "new" computer. so I cleaned everything put it back together and the computer ran but it wouldnt display anything on the moniter. wasnt sure so I took it back apart, this time I took the heat sink off to clean out dust from it that I had for got to do. I reinstalled heat sink and applyed new cooling compound. got everything together and this time it turns on then immediately off, as in the fan leds blink on then off and the FANS dont even rotate. The motherboard wasnt beeping codes as I thought it should if there was an issue. I tryed a different power supply and same thing. I tryed disconnecting everything but power and same thing. NOW what confuses me if i disconnect the 12v core voltage power supply cable (the 4 prong power cable) fans come on and stay on but I tryed to attatch a video card and see it would show anything and no power was to the video card. I dont have a second motherboard or cpu to test if it's one or the other atm so I am lost....what do you guys think?

I have an intel p4 cpu
and intel d915gev motherboard How did you clean this system? Liquids, Vacuum Cleaner,  Air from Air Compressor, or canned Air?

Liquids are bad and can short out MB and corrode what else did nt short.

Vacuum Cleaner can suck off jumpers and cause all sorts of issues as well as the wand can create a static charge from the rapidly flowing air traveling through it with dust particles that steal electrons while passing through it.

Air Compressor ( Hidden Danger of Water ) ... Yes you have air at your fingertips from the compressor, but most air compressors condense the humidity of the newly compressed air and it settles in the TANK. When you use the compressor to blow air out of it, if you dont purge the water from the tank, you are then spraying air with a water mist into the system.

Canned Air .. The correct way to clean a computer as long as the can is held right side up to blow the compressed gas out of it. If it is held to the side or upside down, it will blow its liquid gas out of it and you will see a white cloud and this will collect on the motherboard and run off like water until it evaporates.I use a vacuum cleaned to clean the bottom of case thwn hand wiped/q-tip cleaned the restThat must have taken forever. Did you ground yourself before touching the mobo?
Whe you removed the heatsink you may have pulled up te processor. Carefully remove the CPU and reseat it.have tryed to reset it, what I am confused about is the board is not POSTing OR beeping anything BUT it turns the fans on and all when I leave the cpu power unplugedDid you ground yourself before you touched the internal components? You may have to reseat the RAM and make sure your power connections are plugged in properly. Have you checked your motherboard book?yes everything is plugged in and yes I have checked my manual. I pretty much know there is a failure but I dont know if it is the motherboard because it's not beeping anything or if it's the cpe because I can remove the cpu power cord and the fans will fire up (still nothing on moniter or beeps).....and I dont have a test mobo or cpu :-( Quote from: afguy2082 on July 25, 2008, 12:58:55 AM

when I leave the cpu power unpluged

because I can remove the cpu power cord a

Did you ground yourself before you touched the internal components? Quote from: JJ 3000 on July 24, 2008, 02:06:39 PM

That must have taken forever. Did you ground yourself before touching the mobo?

ok I understand this it was my mistake....I am asking you opnion if it's a fried mobo or cpu

One night the other week, I left my laptop on and plugged it to the adapter to be charged in the morning. Next morning, the battery light on the panel is flashing  which means the battery is low and needs to be charged. I checked to see if it was plugged correctly and it was. So I moved it to other outlets in the house and another house as well. Nothing. The charger seemed fine, the light was on, so it seemed fine. So I thought it was either the laptop or the battery.  I looked up the battery online and the model iis a BATCLS0L Lithium Ion Battery. Some sites said that specific model last from 2-3 years, and mine is almost 4 years old now.

Is there something else I should know about? Should I have my computer looked at? What should I do, because I CANNOT boot my laptop at the moment.If anyone needs anymore info, my laptop is a Compal Chembook 2071 (DL71). What can I do to get my computer revived?Check the cord going into and out of the AC power adapter (transformer).  Ensure those connections are secure (and haven't worked loose).  If you have a voltmeter, check the DC voltage out of the AC power adaptor to ensure it matches rated value on transformer.  If you replace the adapter, you need to match the DC voltage and current requirements of your laptop.  These differ among laptop makes and models so you can't necessarily use your buddy's adapter.

With laptop power off (and AC power adaptor cord removed), remove the battery completely; then see if laptop will boot from wall circuit with the AC power adapter. Quote from: seanfb91 on July 18, 2008, 09:23:19 AM

Some sites said that specific model last from 2-3 years, and mine is almost 4 years old now.

With laptop power off (and AC power adaptor cord removed), remove the battery completely; then see if laptop will boot from wall circuit with the AC power adapter.

Nope, the laptop will only work with the battery. I'm dreading pulling money out to buy a new battery...

Do laptop batteries surrender without some warning?

Should I look into getting a new adapter? Or a new battery? I should I have my laptop looked at? Either way, it's money coming out of my pocket. 

Dude, everybody's right.

STEP 1 IS ALWAYS....

plug it in and turn it on with the battery removed.

Come on, just give it a try.

My uncle who works for a computer company, built my laptop and says that the problem is most likely the charger instead of the battery.

I have an HP Presario with Windows Vista. I can not get it to boot up. It starts to come on and all light start flashing as if coming up then it goes down. I thought PERHAPS the battery wasn't HOLDING a charge or my adapter wires had a short. However, I have checked both out with another computer and all is WORKING fine. Any pointers as to why my computer only FLASHES lighs on the keyboard as if trying to boot up? Nothing has appeared on the monitor.

Thanks,

agendaTry removing the battery and hold the power SWITCH on for 10 seconds, release power button. Then plug in the power adapter and connect to laptop without the battery, turn on.

If no boot, follow this: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00372748&lc=en&cc=us&lang=en&rule=42258&product=3193116&dlc=en.

Good luck.How old is this laptop

I have an HP 576x Desktop PC at my home that will not boot up at all. About a week ago, whenever I pressed the power button on the case, it would go good until right after the BIOS startup screen it would say "Operating System not Found".
I think this might just be the hard DRIVE which would be easy to replace, but for about a week now, whenever I press the power button, it will go good for maybe 5 seconds, then the screen will go black and the power light will glow orange and it will be making this clicking sound maybe every two seconds it will make this noise. Also, the CD-ROM drive will not open. The light will go on in it meaning that the power coming to it is good, but then it makes the click and stops, like it wont even try. I have opened up the case and checked through everything, but the only think I can come up with is that the hard drive probably has a lot to do with these problems, and that on the MOTHERBOARD there are two (I think they are capacitors), that are bent but I don't know if they are bent as in damaged, or if they are simply, bent, and can be fixed. All help is appreciated. Thanks Oh, almost forgot. The hdd is an IDE Seagate 40GB hard drive, processor is an Intel Celeron 2.4GHz, and it is an ATX motherboard. Bent capacitors or other components are usually fine unless they have sheared off, burnt or leaked/corroded. Don't worry about those unless that has happened. If the CD drive will not open then that sounds like a power supply issue or the motherboard getting locked into a drive start-up check.

As for the "OS not found" that means that the HDD is probably functioning but the Master Boot RECORD (MBR) has been damaged or altered. If you are running Windows XP or above you should be able to insert your Windows CD, boot off of it and enter the 'Repair' mode to restore the correct boot path.Ok Thanks for the reply. Yeah that would definitely make sense if it was the power supply that was causing the CD drive to not open. I have even tried poking a safety pin into the tiny hole that is underneath the actual drive bay from the outside. It sounded like it wanted to open but it just couldnt, even though I tried that like 20 times but same result for everything. Yeah I think I would be better off just getting a new power supply, and hope it works. Thanks
This should open the drive whether there is power or not...if the messages " operating system not found" it is probably the operating system is corrupted..or may be you must select the HDD for first boot on your BIOS. the cd-rom wouldn't open, refresh the ide/sata cable then change the power cord of your cd-rom..if the sound continues, refresh the ram scratch the it with the eraser ( gold part). Quote from: jonas.tech on March 19, 2010, 12:27:21 AM

if the messages " operating system not found" it is probably the operating system is corrupted..or may be you must select the HDD for first boot on your BIOS. the cd-rom wouldn't open, refresh the ide/sata cable then change the power cord of your cd-rom..if the sound continues, refresh the ram scratch the it with the eraser ( gold part).

Hi friends,

I have a functioning 386 which displays VGA color with no problems on an old (small) monitor. When I hook it up to a newer SVGA screen, it is defaulting to VGA monochrome.

I've tried using the MODE command in MS-DOS but this has no effect.

My guess is I need to re-configure the dip-switches on the graphics card. There are 4 switches, all OFF except switch 1.

The card is an ORCHID 0-VGA-30449 and dates from 1988. Does anyone out there have the info on these switches?

I've noticed that the pin arrangement of the 2 monitor cables differ. Is this an issue here also?

Thanks,
Harry

are you sure the newer SVGA screen isn't monochrome? and by monochrome, are we talking grayscale, or just Black and white?



Also, are you running Windows 3.1 and trying to run a higher res? It could be the card doesn't have enough memory to handle the higher resolutions without trading out colour capabilities.Hello BC

The SVGA monitor in question is a color monitor and I would describe its current output as grayscale. I used the term 'monochrome' because, when I run msd (MSoft Diagnostics) to check on my video settings, it reports them as:
VGA monochrome
Video mode 7
80 x 25

As you say, my DISPLAY adapter won't handle high resolutions, but I was expecting the monitor to provide the bare minimum VGA with (16?) colors.

I am running Windows 3.1 and there's a funny thing here,....when windows starts to load, the splash screen appears IN COLOR!.....but then everything goes back to gray.

I don't think my video card and monitor like each other and what "mode" commands have you tried? Any BIOS settings that might be applicable?I'd upgrade that video card to like a Trident SVGA Card with 1MB Video Ram. You can find the Trident Cards in ISA and PCI flavors, the PCI flavor might even have 2MB to 8MB Ram vs just 1MB on an ISA card. Also if your 386 supports VESA you can go that route.

The video card dated 1988 is likely older than the 386, either out of an 8088 XT or 286 AT

You can pick up a far better video card off of ebay for a few dollars plus shipping and get better results, and either 256 colors or better vs 2, 4, or 16 color VGA.

I had an old 286 which had a CGA card in it which had a video cable that looked like a serial plug, and it ram windows 3.1 in the same mode you stated, color splash screen, then Black and White / Grey scale. I popped in an 16-bit ISA Oakes Technology VGA card with 512k Ram and it was then able to play Wolfenstein 3D and Commander Keen etc... of course I had to replace the CGA display for a VGA display that I got given to me back in 1993 in order to go VGA.

Good Luck with this system... I'd definately spend a small amount of money for a better video card that doesnt have dip switches to worry about.

Quote from: DaveLembke on July 25, 2008, 10:20:21 AM

I'd upgrade that video card to like a Trident SVGA Card with 1MB Video Ram. You can find the Trident Cards in ISA and PCI flavors, the PCI flavor might even have 2MB to 8MB Ram vs just 1MB on an ISA card. Also if your 386 supports VESA you can go that route.

The video card dated 1988 is likely older than the 386, either out of an 8088 XT or 286 AT

VGA monochrome
Video mode 7
80 x 25

what "mode" commands have you tried?

it's possible your windows configuration is set to CGA B&W instead of VGA.

where is the hard drive located on this computer and what would be the easiest method of removing it?  Why do you want to remove it?
If you've NEVER been inside your computer, and you've never seen hard drive, maybe you need to leave it to PROS??It's shot as it is.  I believe I know where it is which is why I come here to ask for help.  I know the pros could fix it, but I have no idea where I could have it DIAGNOSED without having to throw down $100 just by entering the store, much less $200 to have them replace it for me. Best to check your MANUAL or TOSHIBA's website.

Good luck.I apologize for not noticing, it's a laptop.
Hard drive replacement is usually pretty easy. All you need, is just a screwdriver to remove hard drive cover.
Your model has even an extra space for another hard drive.
See below:

Be sure to keep the hdd mounting bracket to place the new drive into!

what should i go with? im afraid that if i go with a quad i wont really need it all so mabye i should go with a dual i dont know mabye even stay with my p4 of course in my dream i had last night i got a quad and it was going really fast and stuff heres what i do on my COMPUTER games photoshop other adobe things like that listening to music and web browsing mabye even some autodesk type apps i think i might go with the quad but im not shure what one the q6600 or q9300quad lol.

Edit...
And I would go with the most expansive one :pi herd though that a dual wither higher clock speeds will be better then a quad with lower It depends on what programs you will be running. dual CORE at higher frequency is able to perform at the same level as a quad core clocked lower.

in that scenario, heat might be a PROBLEM for the dual core, the more cores, the less "stress" is put on each core.

using a classic example: imagine trying to wear one sock on two feet. the sock is the core, under stress.
 
                                       getting two socks, to cover your two feet puts less stress on the sock. one feet per sock. :p

special thanks to carbon.Haha, So you did GET that metaphor.  o so the q6600 would proform as well as the e8400 but the q660 would have less stress correct? so by the sounds of things a quad would really be the better faster option?i would say so. besides, we all gotta keep up with technology. since you're considering an upgrade, why not go for the quad? 

bearing in mind difference in costs of course.so what one is better? the q6600 or the q9300? the q6600 can be overclocked more because of a higher multiplyer and aslo has more cache but the q9300 has that sse something or other that the q6600 doesnt have that helps with multimedia plus its 45nm  what one?One more thing if its not too late, does the Q6600 have 45nm technology? The E8400 does and it is a definite plus when it comes to lack of heat and power consumption.

Edit
Well, I guess if the Q9300 has 45nm tech. than your question is... how much is in my BUDGET?i guess the q9300 might be too much cause i need to buy ram, motherboard, and graphics card

Greetings,

I am trying to find out if a CMOS battery provides enough power (I would think yes) to boot a PC. Can anyone confirm this?

If so, I think the issue would be how long the machine could operate on it...

Please comment if possible.

Regards,

Jean-Pierre
No.

(I resist the temptation to make this one of my shortest posts ever)

3 Volts of power isn't even enough for the +5V standby rail, let alone the +12v rail needed for almost all peripherals as well as the motherboard, which would only boot when supplied the POWER_GOOD signal... How exactly would you rig the CMOS battery to start the machine anyway?BC_Programmer,

Thank you for the response.  It has been a very long time since electricity but isn't 3.0 V enough to power up a tape player?

Anyway, I don't know what the power requirements are for the motherboard and other components may be.  I also don't know the exact specifications of the battery. I have written the manufacturer about this.

You are the second person to state this. I am just checking a bit out of curiosity.

This whole issue is related to being able to power up a PC that is shutdown. I know that if you can send a packet to the Network card and wake up the PC if the Wake On LAN option is enabled for the card. I have seen this.

However, the other colleague who replied indicated that the PC had to be hooked to a power SUPPLY in order for this to happen, which makes sense.

I am just trying to find out if it would be possible using an alternate source of power.

I hope this makes sense.

Jean-Pierre
Quote from: dareys on July 24, 2008, 10:23:35 AM

BC_Programmer,
I am just trying to find out if it would be possible using an alternate source of power.

BC_Programmer,

Ah, so it would be possible to boot the PC from another battery.

OK, perhaps a 3.0 Volt CMOS battery would not be enough...

What about a ¨... bridge battery. This battery is only found within portable computers and is used as a temporary backup for the main battery. This allows you to remove the main battery and replace it with a good battery without having to turn off the computer.¨

Do you think this would provide enough power to pull it off?

Jean-Pierre

BC_Programmer,

I think I now know that if you leave a desktop plugged into a power supply and you have it hooked to a router with a wireless network enabled, somebody can tap into the Network card, wake the machine up and access the PC.

I am trying to learn as much as I can about these posibilities to prevent the illegal access of equipment. I have suspected this for a long time.

More recently, I was using a laptop that I would power down and unplug at night, only to find odd things in the morning. So I was suspecting a secondary battery might allow the startup and access as I specified above.

Paranoid? Well, if you had had the problems I have had over a long period of time you would really try to cover all the bases.

Jean-Pierre
 

I think I now know that if you leave a desktop plugged in and you have it hooked to a router with a wireless network enabled, somebody can tap into the Network card, wake the machine up and access the PC.

More recently, I was using a laptop that I would power down and unplug at night, only to find odd things in the morning. So I was suspecting a secondary battery might allow the startup and access as I specified above.

What about a ¨... bridge battery. This battery is only found within portable computers and is used as a temporary backup for the main battery. This allows you to remove the main battery and replace it with a good battery without having to turn off the computer.¨

drmsucks,

I just reviewed the thread and I stand corrected. Sorry about that. It would seem that you are the one who provided me with the final suggestions to password protect the laptop (which it is), disable WOL (which it is) and password protect the BIOS (which I am going to do). I assume you do that from the standard BIOS configuration boot time menu.

Thank you.

Jean-Pierre

Not sure about this one.  Run Windows NT with very propriatary software...that's the reason I haven't upgraded.  In the old days of plug and play I could run out and buy a dvd burner and away we went.  Now all of the burners I have been looking at don't list nt as an operating system...I'm not interested in nero ETC because I run my own software so won't my system just recognize the new device and just take off?  The computer should just see the new device right?Are you RUNNING NT4?

If so you will need some software package to support burning media SINCE it is not bundled with the OS as a feature.

If running Windows XP, it is bundled to burn media, given as long as the OS supports the chipset internal to the drive to initialize its burning features, otherwise install the software that came bundled with the drive.Right NT 4.  Am running a burning software called Cheeta DVD burner...works great.  Am just trying to buy new dvd burner.  Last one I put in worked right off the bat, but now all of the new ones indicate they don't support nt4...I am thinking since this is just hardware, my machine will see it on boot and my Cheeta software will work with it.  Am just CHECKING to see if I am correct in my thinking before I buy new dvd.
Thanks Quote from: thompy on July 25, 2008, 10:31:10 AM

Last one I put in worked right off the bat, but now all of the new ones indicate they don't support nt4...

What exactly can i do with the TV-out socket on my grapics card... watch TV?
How?

ThanksThe "TV-Out" socket usually EXPORTS all screen data..
(graphics) to the avarage Yel-Whi-Red cables...

In other words..
You can use your computer with a TV
instead of a regular VGA monitor.. XD
Go ahead and TRY.. usually DVD players
come with the appropriate cable to do
this.. Just take the yellow end and plug
one in the Graphics card.. and the other
end in the TV-Input..

hello,

after occasional bouts with "cannot find server" error messages while ATTEMPTING to connect to the internet,
i discovered a handy surprise.
when the icon announcing "local area connector has little or no connection" sits above a yellow triangular
figure with a black exclamation sign in the center, in my bottom tray, i right clicked it.
then i clicked "repair" and WHOA!, instant internet connection.

whatever it is it SAVES alot of keying and frustrating wait time.

maybe it'll work for you if you have server problems...   Happens to me sometimes at school with the Wireless.
They say they are improving the system but they've recently stopped funding the Computers at our school.
1/3rd of them are not usable anymore. (i'd like to go install Linux on them if they are just sitting there) Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on July 22, 2008, 10:15:33 PM

1/3rd of them are not usable anymore.

hello,

after occasional bouts with "cannot find server" error messages while attempting to connect to the internet,
i discovered a handy surprise.
when the icon announcing "local area connector has little or no connection" sits above a yellow triangular
figure with a black exclamation sign in the center, in my bottom tray, i right clicked it.
then i clicked "repair" and WHOA!, instant internet connection.

whatever it is it saves alot of keying and frustrating wait time.

maybe it'll work for you if you have server problems...   

Try to buy a new quality printer for a long term use. But before that I want an idea about how I can select a quality printer and printer cartridge? Is it good if I select a printer or cartridge using internet?

I enquired in many sites and was impressed with the information provided about[top quality inkjet cartridges in http://www.inkdomain.com/. Anybody heard about this site? Please revert back if you know anything about this…
inkdomain,On the subject of "best" inkjet printers as in many cases in life it DEPENDS a lot on what it is you intend to use the printer primarily for.If you intend to do a great deal of photo creation then you would want one that can give you high quality photos. If on the other hand you will only be using it for printing data then speed may be a required criteria.Also if space constraints are an issue and you want to have a scanner,photo copier and a printer in a small area then a combination unit might be the best way to go.For myself as i refill all my own cartridges (an immense cost saving) i would be principally (after use and quality considerations) only purchase a printer that i personally can refill the cartridges from bulk ink. I could with the extremely limited information you have given make some recommendations but it would be more precise if you defined your own objectives considering my earlier points.truenorthHmm... something seems odd about this...

The whole wording of it, and the fact that his e-mail address and username both are "inkdomain".

Is it just me or does this post seem like spam? Quote from: quaxo on JULY 24, 2008, 11:56:22 AM

Hmm... something seems odd about this...

The whole wording of it, and the fact that his e-mail address and username both are "inkdomain".

Is it just me or does this post seem like spam?

Hello all,

running into an annoying ISSUE when STARTING the pc everytime i disconnect the power. the pc shuts down and then restart by itself with the error 'CMOS Checksum error-Defaults loaded' and at the bottome 'press F1 to continue,Del to enter setup' . i have also NOTICED on the same screen that DDR SDRAM speed which is 333mb is written in 'white'? . After i press F1 , the PC loads normally and XP reads 768 MB as usual. i have TRIED to replace the battery but it didnt work. i have also tried to disable halt-on to no errors in bios but with no clue. It seems that bios is losing whatever setting that has been changed once the power is disconnected.


Specs are:

-RAM  : 256 MB DDR RAM PC2700 167.1Mhz x3
-mobo : Albatron px865 p(e)(pro)
-processor: intel pentium 4 2,8 GHZ 848P


anyone can help please?You might have a Ram stick on the fritz... I'd try Memtest86 from http://www.memtest86.com/ .... Its free to download and use, and is pretty good at detecting Ram issues. You just burn the CD and boot your system off of it, and let it go through its autostart test  process, it will run all sorts of read/write tests to the Ram including tests that read and write data from neighboring data cells to test for leaking cells or cells that are altered by neighboring cells that change from 0 to 1 and back etc, and can cause the bit to flip on the neighboing cell to 0 or 1 opposite of what it was originally set to record the bit value of. Quote from: Gilgamesh21 on July 24, 2008, 06:54:55 PM

i have tried to replace the battery but it didnt work.

Masters, I'm new here and I would like to know about the difference between a PC400 and a PC3200 DDR Memory. Thanks a lot. Appreciate your response on this.Same.

EDIT: I read your post too quickly. As far as I know, there is no PC400 memory. But, PC3200 = DDR400.then why do these companies put 3200 in the memory if they are the same with the ddr400?I mean the difference between DDR400 and the DDR 3200? Because I encountered a system error when I used a 512 DDR400 memory because the PREVIOUS memory used was DDR3200. Is there difference in the FREQUENCY between the two?I understand your CONFUSION and, believe me, I THINK the people who came up with this confusing nonsense ought to be shot! Phew!

Take a look here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PC3200

Many older motherboards had trouble running EDIT: memory at their fastest advertised speed and many could only do so under special conditions.

Post your motherboard details and exactly what you are trying to accomplish, and we'll see if we can HELP!Big tango master drmsucks... Quote from: jonramos on July 23, 2008, 11:22:38 PM

Big tango master drmsucks...

Post your motherboard details and exactly what you are trying to accomplish, and we'll see if we can help!

Today I bought an Acomdata drive enclosure for an old 80gb Seagate hard drive that I had in a previous computer.  I set the jumper to Master (it was on cable select as there were 2 drives in the old computer), and installed it into the enclosure.

When I turn the drive on and plug it into my computers usb port, (Dell XPS M1710) the computer RECOGNISES the drive as a USB Mass Storage Device, but I can only find evidence of it in the Device MANAGER - it does not appear as a drive in "My Computer", nor in Disk Management.

I've tested it on 3 different systems, with the same result. It is recognised when it is plugged in, and appears in the "Safely Remove Hardware"  - but nowhere else.

I have tried setting the path of my DVD drive to E:, in case there was a conflict with the other drive - and now I'm just confused!

Here's a screen grab of a few pages of stuff from my PC that might help??

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c150/Joelears/screen.jpg


Thank you SO MUCH in advance for helping out!

JoelDrive itself may be dead. When you turn enclosure power on, can you hear drive spinning?Yep, I can hear the drive spinning away. Everything seems to be normal, I just can't access the data in anyway!

It's really frustrating!Did you try to remove jumper?
My EXTERNAL drive (in enclosure) has no jumpers set.I tried it with both Jumper in (set to master once, slave another), and jumper out - same result each time.

Is there anything else I can be doing to check is the drive is still functioning - it sounds like it is working, but is there anyway of checking it if windows can only partly see it and wont assign it a drive letter?Short of declaring your brand new enclosure being bad out-of-the-box, you can try to slave your drive.How WOULD I do that? I notcied there was a setting for "slae" with the jumpers, and I did test it that way - but is there a special way of setting it up that I don't know?

Thank you so much for your help with this, by the way - I really appreciate it.No, I'm talking about hooking it up as a slave internally.
Another option, would be to run to the store, and exchange enclosure - just to make sure it's not faulty.sir broni is right bro, you should have tried the enclosure in the store where you bought it to be sure that it's deffective. have you tried setting another hard drive as slave in your previous computer?JoelEars,Your problems with your Internal HDD to case configuration brings back memories.Had same problem not too long ago. Fortunately i had 3 identical cases (all brand new).Finally was able to get it working in only one of them.However jumpering was critical. I contacted the case manufacturer and the HDD manufacturer and i don't remember which one it was but one of the 2 gave me the correct jumper configuration and then it worked (and still does).If you can make your inquiries by telephone and not e-mail as it will move things along a LOT faster.goodluck,truenorth

hi, my IPOD bricked. HOPING to GAIN some good from this, i was wondering is there an external case i can buy for an ipod classic hard drive.  i was hoping to USE the hard drive for storage. its a toshiba MK8022GAA , its pretty new tech, i think its sata...


i dont KNOW if there is a manufacturer that makes cases for Ipod HD's, but you could use it as an internal drive so it wouldnt need the case.

I have a Dell Dimension 2350 that has served me well for several years.  Being a fool, I decided to upgrade the memory myself.  I bought the appropriate memory card and installed it.  The computer would not turn on.  I removed the new card and while now the fan will turn on, the hard drive is silent and the monitor gets no signal.

What do I do now?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Quote from: Limmo on July 23, 2008, 07:37:56 PM

I have a Dell Dimension 2350 that has served me well for several years.  Being a fool, I decided to upgrade the memory myself. 

I already did that.  No good.  Did I ruin the motherboard?

I am looking for an affordable, quality laptop that will LAST me for 4 years. Please specify the laptop you would recommend and why. Also, I'm on a budget so a laptop under $1000 would be nice. Remember, I'm also asking what websites you would recommend to buy quality laptops at a cheaper price. (Much like when you buy furniture from a warehouse) Thank you for your help!Buying a new computer really depends on what you WANT to do on it.
What are you planning on using it for?
Games? Work? Media?You really need to answer Carbon's questions to be sure that you get the performance that you need on the tasks that you want to do. Post back and you'll get many opinions of RECOMMENDED specs to accomplish your COMPUTING goals. One spec caveat, however, since you'll most likely end up with a Vista SYSTEM - DO NOT get less than 2 GB of RAM; you won't be happy with the performance.

As to your arbitrary 4 year lifespan - ????

Where to buy: a) newegg.com. b) dell.com, c) hp.com, d) COSTCO or, costco.com. My choice would be to purchase from COSTCO, store or website, because they have competitive pricing and add a year to the warranty.

Manufacturer: HP, Dell, Acer, in that order.

You can get a quite nice machine today for your $1000. Look around and see what appeals to you.

Best of luck!