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I dont know a lot about computers, but love them. Well I just found a CPU at the dump and took it home. I plugged it up to see if it would come on and it did. I then got an extra monitor we had and hooked it up. Well the CPU came on, but the monitor wasn't recieveing anything from the CPU. Its probley the wrong type of monitor or something. The monitor is an HP and im not sure what the CPU is, it doesnt say, but it has a AMD K26 Processor. It LOOKS as if it was used for gaming. Well if you could give me some advice it would be greatly appreciated. Thanx.Generally, all PC monitors meet the same specifications needed to support basic PC video/graphics (VGA, SVGA, etc.).  In other words, your good monitor should work with your good PC for basic video.  If it doesn't, it means your PC, monitor or related hardware/software is BAD or misconfigured.

I'd recommend checking the components of your unknown PC in your known good PC.  Take out the drives and put them in your good PC.  Check any other components that are user changeable such as PCI cards, graphics cards (especially this), RAM and cables.  Do this one at a time and keep in mind that some stuff may not be compatible with your good PC.

Once you eliminate the good stuff as your problem, what's left is likely the cause.

Dell

BTW - many gaming MACHINES die from OVERHEATED electronics, especially overclocked processors and graphics cards.  There's probably a good reason why it was at the dump! Quote

... There's probably a good reason why it was at the dump!

Do you need to have transferring TAPE between the cpu and cooling fan?Arctic Silver paste is the best product for this. Apply with a POPSICLE stick and or a swab, not your FINGER...

patio.  Richard A. Roberts......
Quote

Do you need to have transferring tape between the cpu and cooling fan?

i have a maxtor 80gig hard drive and it crashed, but i have a lot of information on it that i need....

is there a way to retireve this information?

when i try to access the drive, windows says, :the disk in drive d is not formatted.  do you want to format now?"

is there a way to retrieve information?  suggestions would be appreciated.....thanks!Yup.  But "how" depends on what you think happened and how valuable your data is.

If your HD is truly "belly-up" that is, boot/id/etc. sectors are wiped or corrupted, you may be able to fix it with some utilities available.

Apparently your operating system/BIOS recognizes the drive or it wouldn't ask you to format.  Do you use some sort of BIOS OVERLAY (Maxtor uses these for older PCs)?  If so, try to recover the drive using their setup/tools disk.  Try reloading/resetting the "overlay."

Bottom line is you can have a data recovery service save the data, but they can be expensive.

And, as you know, don't format the drive or you will make data recovery a lot tougher or impossible.

Dellim sorry, i dont know what all this means.....im still new at using computers.....

but here is another problem.....SOMETIMES, the drive doesnt show up in the "my computer" icon......also, the computer sometimes doesnt recognize it properly......instead of identifying it as a maxtor drive, it just names it a bunch of random numbers and letters and symbols.  

also, this has happened before.  it says the format thing, but if i restart the computer, the drive works again!  should i just buy a brand new drive?  

to recover the data, is there something that i, myself, can do without help?  i dont really want to bring my hard drive to some place and have to pay money if i can just do it myself......i know this is asking a lot, but i want to know how to fix my own computer!  You can try Norton Utilities' Disk Doctor if you have it.  Sometimes it can fix access problems.

But, it sounds like you need to reload the Maxtor overlay for your drive.  This utility adds functionality to your system BIOS and manages your drive.

The overlay/setup utilities are here:  http://www.maxtor.com/portal/site/Maxtor/menuitem.57739892ade91820a727116291346068/?channelpath=/en_us/Support/Product%20Support

You will need to know what type and model drive you have, and the operating system you are using (WinXP, Win98, WinMe, etc.).

Step-by-step instructions should be included with your download.

Good Luck!

Delljgnavarrete.......Well......If you are able to restart and access the drive ......I would be copying what you want saved to some other MEDIA...........cd's...... then at least you have the data you don't want to lose.
It sounds like the hard drive my be giving out ...so save as much as possible ......ASAP.

dl65  
Quote

jgnavarrete.......Well......If you are able to restart and access the drive ......I would be copying what you want saved to some other media...........cd's...... then at least you have the data you don't want to lose.
It sounds like the hard drive my be giving out ...so save as much as possible ......ASAP.

dl65  

Sometimes, the drive doesn't show up in the "My computer" icon. Also, the computer sometimes doesn't recognize it properly.

Instead of identifying it as a Maxtor drive, it just names it using random numbers, letters and symbols.

This has happened before.  It says the format thing, but if I restart the computer, the drive works again!  Should I just buy a brand new drive?  

To recover the data, is there something that I can do without help?

I don't really want to take my hard drive to someone and have to pay money if I can just do it myself.

I know this is asking a lot, but I would like to know how to fix my own computer!

Hi,

Whats your experience with partioning your hard drive?  HASS it helped you, or is it NOTHIN to write home about....CLICK on the LINK below and read all about it.

Separating the Operating System from your Data makes maintenance and backing up easier to do, and also adds a - slight - MARGIN of safety.

I have a Pionex computer that, will only boot up now with boot disc.  Once I GET it booted up, it only stays up about 15 MIN then goes to colored lines or checks on screen.    The monitor is fine, I checked that.  Could it be the video card going bad?  Do you have virus portection? Have you tried updating your video card drivers?

[glb]Flame[/glb]I have virus protection.  I ran the virus scanner and spydoctor.   I have not tried updating the drivers.  I dont know if it will STAY on long enough to do that.  I tried defragging it and it will not make it through that either.   I will try the driver UPDATE.Ok. Try the update, and get back to us...

[glb]Flame[/glb]Questions:

1. Is the VGA CABLE properly connected?
2. Is the videocard firmly seated?
3. Has the videocard fan been cleansed of excessive dust?
-- Only applies if the videocard has an active cooling solution.

I've had this computer for a couple years but is still reasonably good to me. runs a 2. 4 INTEL pentium 4 proc. with room to upgrade to a 2.8 gh. but my os and other diagnostics say its running at a speed of 1.8 gh which is way to slow for not only everday stuff, but I do computer animation, editing and photoshop graphics as well. I never really noticed before cuz i hadn't done much on my own machine. Also always figured i just needed more ram, put the pathetic speed is noticable and i'm pissed off about it. is this a normal translation of speeds for processors by pentium, or is something up? wrong multiplier in bios or sumthin? I'm CLUELESS. I could build a new computer in a few months anyways , but i want to MAKE the best of this one for now and also when i do get a new computer, i want this one to be a back up for rendering and such. so how can i get the most out of a possibly bogus PROCESSOR?Are your jumpers set correctly on the motherboard or in the BIOS? What kind of computer or motherboard is this?i'll have to reply again when i get home from work, its a shuttle motherboard, a company built the computer for me so i assumed it was done right. . .   i've never needed to remove the cpu for anything so i haven't altered any original settings. the company name is cyberpowerpc.com or cyberpowersystems.com.shuttle AS45GT/RSet the FSB to the proper speed.it was set to 100, i will put it up to 133 for now, but it will let me put it up to 165, is that the top for the processor being used now(2.4) or is that the top speed for the 2.8 processor which the motherboard supports. I just don't want to turn it up all the way if that full 165 setting is meant for a more powerful processor. I don't want to ruin my proc. obviously.

Thanks for you helpWhat does it show at boot up now? Check that first.thanx for all the help,

turns out after getting some new memory, new heatsink and some arctic silver. overheating was taking place. original heatsink was not flush with cpu causing cpu overheating, and probably contributed to an already faulty motherboard. board has been replaced, and the HURTING has stopped.

Could anybody tell me how I can tell what size my current hard-drive is? eg. where do I look on the computer to see this info?  I looked in control panel etc??? wasn't sure at all.  All I know is that it's pretty crap - I want to buy a new one, but want to compare with the size of my current one!! Much appreciated.Download and run Everest Home Edition, it will tell you all about your computer.You can also tell the size of your harddrive by going to My Computer from the start menu or desktop and right clicking the harddrive and going to Properties and clicking on the GENERAL tab. No extra software NEEDED for this.  

Later

User_X  Thank you so much!! Quote

You can also tell the size of your harddrive by going to My Computer from the start menu or desktop and right clicking the harddrive and going to Properties and clicking on the General tab. No extra software needed for this.  

Later

User_X  

Yeah, Fed. Like, duhhh.  

I only suggested Everest so Muriel could find out all about her computer in one easy to follow interface.

When i start my computer up the hard drive button starts up but the power button DOESNT light up and the monitor just goes into stand by what could be wrong?How old is the computer? Can you give your computer Specs?

Motherboard Name:
Operating System:
RAM:
Current Power supply:


When did this problem HAPPEN?motherboard: not SURE something 1.3
operating system: athlon XP 1.66ghz
ram: 256mg
power supply:170 i think but i hooked it up to a 220 and it did the same THING.

Just recently after i used and shut it down normaly it just wouldnt do anything but turn on.remove ALL cables from the rear of the base unit.

Hold the power button in for 20 seconds, then reconnect power, video, mouse and keyboard and try starting up again.

Do you get the POST beep on starting it up?noAnd if you haven't already done so...

Put the voltage switch back to where it was originally!  (110 or 220).

DelIve changed the motherboard but the thing still doesnt start up the monitor.

I'm using a nvidia SOUNDCARD and have been using a mic to talk to others on BF2

about a week ago I decided to FINALLY install my 5.1 speaks and get them running, they cool, nice and loud but I need the mic and plus I prefer headphones.

Now the problem I had is when I switch back to headphones suddenly theres no mic port. Its like dissapered.

I tried going to speech in the control panel and apprently there are a couple of tabs there but the only one that I can see is an 'Text to speech' one.

The microsoft help says there should be an input tab there somewhere but I can see it for dung. I've GONE THOUGH all the other 'sound and audio devices' tabs to see if I can find anything but to no luck. The mic tester doesn't pick anything up no matter what I plug the mic into.


Any help I would be greatful for, otherwise I'm just gonna format but I would rather not ^^

HOPE I managed to make myself clear


Try re-installing the sound card driver.
When you say you are converting back to headphones are you changing the cable selection in the sound card ports?

The speaker setup in Audio properties may need to be changed to reflect this.

I have SET all the performance to OPTIMAL to my satellite pro 4600 and the fan only start when i reach about 66 degres celcius on my CPU. Is there any program or setting to make it run all the time??? I know about the battery issus but i want it to run all the time thats all

tyWell, I'm glad you understand the battery issue, but you kow that this will put your fan under some stress here... You will be putting more tear on it, so it's more likely that you will have to replace it SOONER than you WOULD if you left it... If I'm right, the fan controls are in teh BIOS...

[glb]Flame[/glb]

Anyone know how to get a SCSI III drive (on a 2940 host) to run as a master over an IDE drive as a SLAVE? fraber1,

I assume you're using a PCI adapter with an internal scsi drive?

- find your adapter model
- search here for the correct bios setup utility:  http://www.adaptec.com/worldwide/support/suppbyproduct.jsp?sess=no&language=English+US&cat=%2FTechnology%2FSCSI+Host+Adapters&fromPage=supportindex
- install and follow instructions for setting master/boot drive
- an example of setup is here (gives you an idea of what is possible):  http://www.adaptec.com/worldwide/support/supporteditorial.jsp?sess=no&language=English+US&prodkey=SCSI_user_guide&cat=/Product/AHA-2940&fromPage=suppedindexprod

Hope this helps!

Dell    Thanks for the words, but it does not seem to assist me for adding an IDE to a SCSI setup and BOOT FROM THE SCSI. Those instructions seem only to help when using ALL SCSI. I have two 18gig IBM SCSI III drives and want to add an IDE drive for backups. When added, it always tries to boot off the IDE and if it won't boot , none do.Put the IDE drive on the secondary cable and set the jupper to slave.

Also take a look in your BIOS or the SCSI rom software to see if you have the possibility to set up the boot option.

Ciao

Sebast
System Adminfraber1,

- did you find your model adapter?  What is it?
AHA-2940
AHA-2940 S6
AHA-2940 S76
AHA-2940AU
AHA-2940UW
AHA-2940UW PRO
AHA-2940W
AHA-2940W S6
AHA-2940W S76
AHA-2944UW
AHA-2944W
something else?

- did you read the installation instructions for the board and the Bios Utility?  The Bios (Select) Utility must be installed and set properly.

- here is an example of the basic model (1st one listed):
"Host Adapter BIOS

This option enables or disables the host adapter BIOS. The default setting is Enabled. If the user is booting from a SCSI disk drive connected to the host adapter, the BIOS must be enabled..."
and...
"System Boot (Int 19h) Controlled by Host Adapter

By default this setting is Enabled. On restart and bootup some older systems send a command to system interrupt 19h only, which assumes that the boot device will be an IDE type floppy or fixed hard disk drive. This effectively disables any non IDE drives as boot devices.

The host adapter intercepts the message and routes it to interrupt 13h, the more up to date, non device dependent way to order a system reset. Most of today's PC's call interrupt 13h from 19h for system reset, so enabling or disabling this option will not effect most computers. The user may disable this option if the system uses interrupt 13h for system reset. As long as this option is enabled, the host adapter will detect the system's interrupt and will manage booting..."
and much more.

If you've installed and set the proper Bios Utility, tell me which IDE/SCSI combo doen't work and what your settings were. I'll be glad to help.

Dell

 Below are set forth my drives and host adapter specs, I'm trying to replace my smaller (18gig) SCSI slave with a larger (80gig) IDE but can't get the SCSIs to master an IDE drive, ever. (all SCSI herein are SCSI IIIs with 68 pins, brand name "Ultrastar" by IBM made in Ferb of 2001 Thailand, Utra3 SCSIs). The 80gig  IDE is not fast enough for use as my master drive. I've tried what another poster sugested to put the IDE on the secondary IDE cable but it did not work. I may not have the jumpers on the drives correct though as someone at a computer center set them up a while back (on the SCSI IIIs).

   If you would be so kind I need some instructons on setting jumpers on these IBM SCSI III drives as the jumper markings are more complicated than on any IDEs I've dealt with before please. And where to set the settings on the host adapter if you please. I need to get it right the first time hopefully because it is a $6,000 computer and I hate taking it apart and rubbing up against the memory sticks, chip etc. Already I had a crash that was only resolved by my "jiggling" the power & 68 pin ribbon cable which bugs me that something this pricy would have such a CHEAP connector system, can you replace and get a better connector system? I work in robotics and If I came up with such an unreliable and damaging rig I'd be fired! Why do SCSIs like this suddenly crash (more than IDEs) and when I "jiggle" the connectors (even with new ones) they come back up? They are grounded and fanned and I do not jar or handle them while running. The computer is an Athlon 64 FX53 in an ASUS SK8V Motherboard with DDR 400 ECC Memory with  a "VPower" 400 watt power supply. Thing runs hot so I run it open CASE with a table fan on it. Fan & computer hooked through CPS system. Could a bigger  (or better) power supply be in order?  Is this causing the Molex power connectors to fail maybe? I'm still trying to grasp the Int19 aspect as well.

  Thanks so much for all the kind attentions, frab.



MY HOST ADAPTER SPECS:
PCI ULTRA WIDE SCSI MASTER
AHA 2940 ULTRA WIDE PCI TO SCSI
68 PIN CONNECTORS
PRODUCT S/N: BEOE5473FV8 O

FOLLOWING IS SPECS ON MY MAIN SCSI DRIVE I NEED TO GET TO BOOT (WILL BOOT
SEPERATELY OR WITH OTHER SCSI SLAVE DRIVE WHICH IS IDENTICAL WITH
DIFFERENT JUMPER SETTINGS, SEE IT DESCRIBED HEREIN, THAT OTHER SCSI
DRIVE WILL SLAVE BUT IS LIMITED IN SIZE, WON'T SLAVE THE IDE
DESCRIBED HEREIN THOUGH, AND THAT'S WHAT'S NEEDED:
  WIN 98 SE LOADED ON FAT32 PARTITION(S)(SO I CAN XCOPY ON/OFF OF IT)
  MODEL#: DPSS-318350  18.2 GB, 7200 RPM
  P/N: 07N4811   MLC: PS0S94
  S/N: ZE19S625
  ON LUN 1,...
  (BELOW IS DESCRIBED WITH LOOKING AT JUMPERS WITH CONNECTORS UP)
  JUMPERS: LEFT J: 4 TO RIGHT (ID BIT 0),
          RIGHT J: FIRST ONE (A RESERVED).
  2,231 CYLS, 255 HDS, 63 SEC.
  2 PARTITIONS, ONE ABOUT 2G AND SECOND ABOUT 6G, FIRST IS BOOT.


MY INTENDED SLAVE DRIVE SPECS:
  ENHANCED IDE
  MDL: WD800JB 00JJC0 WESTERN DIGITAL 80.0 GIG
  S/N: WCAM96231809
  DATE: 11 APR 2005
  DCM: DSBHCTJCA
  WD P/N: WD800JB 00JJC0
  LBA: 156301488
  ONE (PRESENTLY BOOTABLE) NTSF 5 PARTITION SPANNING ALL THE SPACE.


SCSI DRIVE I AM PRESENTLY USING AS SLAVE DRIVE WITH OTHER SCSI (TOO SMALL):
  MODEL#: DPSS©318350  18.2 GB, 7200 RPM
  P/N: 07N3110   MLC: PS0S96
  S/N: ZE1FG976
  (BELOW IS DESCRIBED WITH LOOKING AT JUMPERS WITH CONNECTORS UP)
  JUMPERS: LEFT J: 2 TO RIGHT (ID BIT 2),
          RIGHT J: FIRST ONE (RESERVED).
  ON LUN 0.
  2,231 CYLS, 255 HDS, 63 SEC?
  2 PARTITIONS, ONE ABOUT 2G AND SECOND ABOUT 6G

I have a NEC CRT monitor that is very fuzzy- You can realy see a difference on type.  What WOULD cause this PROBLEM?  Can this be fixed or is my monitor dying?There are a lot of possible causes.  

- How old is the monitor?  NEC has a fairly good reputation, but all monitors will eventually die as components age, ESPECIALLY the PICTURE tube.

- Is this a new problem.  Was it sudden or was it barely noticeable?

- There are some user maintenance actions you can try such as MOVING things away from the monitor (magnetic speakers, cables, other monitor(s), etc.).  You can also degauss the picture tube.  Most monitors have this function built in, and can be accessed through the monitor's setup/maintenance menu (on the monitor, not the PC).

BTW - I have used an NEC monitor almost continuosly since 1982.  If it wasn't so small, I'd be using it now.

Dell

actually I NEED to find out what my POST codes are for my
AWARD Modular BIOSv4.51PG I have found the beeps but not the posts.
Its actually an assignment. But I understand what they are, I just need to find the buggars..sorry , not very exciting request.
But I will keep LOOKING, its as pretty old bios I think, well in todays standards.I have two computers with that BIOS.  It was very popular in 1998-99.  Are not the POST codes the "beeps"?  1-short beep is NORMAL POST.

Well, my original plan was to hook up a raid array, with two hard drives recognized as one. That is more complicated than I thought it would be, plus they have to be identical, which they are not. My NEW plan is to hook up the second drive as a slave. Can anyone give me a few pointers on how this is done? It would be greatly appreciated! First, where does the plug go for slave or master? Second, how can I clear the entire 2nd drive and just put windows on it? I am DETERMINED to do this myself!
The master drive which is the one in the machine already should have the jumper set to master w/slave present and be hooked to the end of the IDE cable.
Your second HDD should be jumpered to slave and hooked to the middle connector on the same IDE cable.

I'm not sure why you want to install an OS on the slave drive though...

patio.  You can have 2 unindentical drives setup in an array but the system will only consider both drives to be of similar size as the smallest one.

Also XP does not support mirroring, only simple, spanned and striped. None of which are as secure or as fault tolerant as mirrored.

You can buy hardware and software capable raid array but you'll be paying high for it! You could always get Server 2003 or similar, this is capable of all RAID categories. 0,1,2,3,4,5 and 10 etc.Keep in mind, if you have two disimailr sized drives from two different manufacturers, then I recommend setting them both as master devices on their own FLAT cables.
Set all other DVd/CD burning equipment as slaves.

benefits are:
1) Perfomance boost for disk running the OS.
2) CD/DVD burning and reading can take palce without burn failures. IE. Burn on the fly instead of Images.. (I like images)

A question. I was thinking about upgrading my old xps Dell Pentium 4. Not through myself but though tiger direct getting a Fx-57 Amd Athalon 2.8ghz and upgrading my old card.

Can i remove my dell processor to install my new athalon (all in the dell xps box) and will that require me having to purchase a new mother board.

Please help me.through my knowledge, you will need a new motherboard, if u are switching from an INTEL Processor to an AMD. But It is quite easy to replace a processor, I suggest that you do it yourself. It's not HARD to learn how.Thanks alot bro. You just saved me alota trouble.
I Guess my total is only gunna be about 2000 now with the new processor graphics card and mother board.

Any suggestions for a GOOD mother board to use?I don't believe you will have any luck with a non-Dell motherboard in a Dell CASE. Those and the power supply units are proprietary. If you intend to PURSUE this, be careful, or just  buy a new case while you are at it.

I keep getting the failure (40) on boot up saying that the floppy drive fails.  I think it is a communications ERROR but  I have checked all cables and tried other floppies.  The motherboard was good the last time it was used.And do other floppy DRIVES work fine?Error 40 is a cable error...replace and or RESEAT the cable...The Problem ended up being the motherboard actually.  One of those WEIRD things, one time is good, the next time it fails.  A new motherboard FIXED the problem.
Thanks

I am getting sound from my speakers but I can't get sound form my cd -rom drive.  The drive reads the cd and shows the tracks but I get no sound.  Went NTO PROPERTIES but I don't have the option to enable digital cd audio for this cd drive.  Would it have something to do with updating   cd drive drivers or updating my windows player? I am running win98What sound card do you have and is it cabled to the CDROM drive?I have a sound blaster soundcard and yes it is ATTACHED to the cd rom but I am not sure if it is attached to the digital or analog connection.Also to let you know I do have sound when I play a wma file or Mozart file but when I try to play a cda file it says wrong format but when I go into details windows media player does support cda extentions so I don't know what I am doing wrong.  PLUS do you know how I can change the format as I know in windows xp you are able to open with....but not in windows 98. thanks!Some sound blaster cards had 3 possible inputs. One was for CD, but the location on the card changed from time to time. If you have more than one possible connector how are they labeled? What model card? ISA or PCI?It has input, mike, output & game controller
It is PCI and at this time I don't know the model
on the cdrom there is digital and anolog CABLE input.. Quote

It has input, mike, output & game controller

i am upgrading an old pc. i acquired a used dfi865PE motherboard w/478 processor. NEW hd and ram and agp card, power supply on the way. i REMOVED the old one and i'm sure i can install the new one. my question is: what is the first thing i have to do to get it READY for the os? i don't have the mobo driver. i went to dfi to dl the driver, but not sure what to dl. nothing says mobo driver. there is utility driver and audio driver. any help WOULD be welcomed. i'm not even sure that this mobo is good.  i don't know how to test it first. at any rate the old one is too old to use at all. (200mgb). thanks.Just fire it up & install your OS first.
that simple?  don't i need the mobo driver first?Nope, you only need your bios to recognise your HDD & cdrom.
What OS are you installing?i only have a 98SE that i can let go with the pc when i sell it, so the answer is win98se
i have another off the wall question. i really like playing around with these crazy pc's, so if i were to occationally fix an old one up and upgrade it and sell it, how do you acquire os for them that don't cost an arm and a leg?Win98SE is bootable from the cdrom so your install will be easy.

Give them linux.thank you.  that was helpful and took away most of my worries.how do i know if the mobo is bad?  the cpu fan gives a 1/2 turn and that is it.  i have a sata hd, agp video car, 256 memory.  won't do a thing.  took the mobo out and put is on a pc cardboard and still nothing.  i'm hoping that it is the power switch. is that a good start?No.         so where do i start.

Here is my system

Sony Vaio PCV-J150
AMD Duron processor
312 MB RAM
Windows ME

I have had problems with my computer for a very long time. I get error messages all the time and it will constantly freeze and/or shutdown. I've done system restore a couple of times but it still runs like crap. I think it is on it's last leg, and I was wondering if I can save the system in anyway. I need a working computer for class and I can't afford a new one right now. My main question is whether or not I can buy a new hard drive and replace the old one with it. If so, do I just use the system restore disc that came with the computer to load eveything on it or is this not even possible. I have done all I can do. I have ran all the diagnostics, virus scan, adware scan, etc. and it doesn't change at all. Please help me :-/.Are you sure your hard drive is at fault? Have you run a diagnostic on it? What about spyware and viruses... have you CHECKED for those? Are you getting error messages?

Give us some details. If the PROBLEM lies elsewhere, a new hard drive may just be an unnecessary expense.  Brittany:

Help us out.  What exactly (word-for-word) does the error message say?

Also, do you want help trying to fix the problem, or do you just want to know how to install Windows ME on a new hard drive?

Doc

Well it has numerous errors that I can't recall all word for word. One that I get alot is "explorer has caused error....explorer will shutdown". I would like to fix it but I don't know if it can be fixed.

It could be a virus but my antivirus doesn't find anything. I run Ad-aware all the time and it finds stuff everytime and I remove it.


What should I do to find the problem?
What are the results of the hard drive diagnostics? What about DOC's question about do you want to reinstall? Have you just run Scandisk on the drive? Quote

... My main question is whether or not I can buy a new hard drive and replace the old one with it. If so, do I just use the system restore disc that came with the computer to load eveything on it ...

Ok I'm about to do all that but here are a few of the errors I get alot.

Rundll32. has caused an error in KRNL386.EXE. Rundll32 will now close.

Winoldap has caused an error in KRNL386.EXE. Winoldap will now close.

and today I've gotten alot of the Rundll32 errors and also nothing will print cause it says something about some driver being bad or something like that.

Do you guys think this GRAPHICS is card WORTH the money?? If not I would APPRECIATE reccomendations(preferably SLI)
HTTP://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16814127182
Absolutely...spending $450.00 bucks on a graphics card sounds good to me...
COURSE there's always a game cube or some thing else on the market
Go For It.

hi sorry its a bit of a long 1.

recently had a prob with pc and had a new motherboard power supply and graphics card fitted under extended WARRANTY but warranty is limited to a certain amount so if i cant fix this i have to pay cash.lol

the problem i have is that my pc is running 100% fine except for when i try to play a game that has 3D graphics the game will load and play any preview movies but then when you click on play it either freezes or most commonly goes blackscreen.(and i have to reboot by disconnecting/reconnecting the power supply)

i initially thought it was just this 1 game in particular (age of mythology) but it is all 3D games. (i am 40 so i dont have many games to check it with)

my CONCERN is that I bought age of mythology over a year ago and played it on this system for a year with no problems but now as i say it wont play.

i have been through the microsoft support site for this game and my pc is more than powerful enough to play this game (and did 4 a year) and more demanding games.   (pc deatils to follow.)

has anybody go any ideas that may resolve my problem?

my PC is an IEXTREME 6091 (packard bell) 2.9ghx
with 256DDR ram the graphics card is a radeon 9200.
and is windows XP.

to try to resolve this isuue i have tried:

1)re-installing all the drivers
2)removing and re-installing the game
3) altering the game itself to run on lower settings(although it ran in high detail in the past.)


I did get 1 error message once which said the graphics card was caught in a loop.

but i have to reboot system when it FAILS so i dont get any error messages usually.

the problem i have is that all the replacement parts were identical to the original parts so this game and others should run.

i have run dxdiag and the pc passes all the dxdiag tests
direct x is installed (latest version 9).

i am not the most knowledgeable on pc's so if there is any other information you need please let me know and i will reply a.s.a..p (but if it requires expertise for me to retrieve it from my pc then please tell me how.lol)

many thanks for your help.
sorry just to add that the age of mythology game requires win 98/200/me/xp   128 mb ram  450 mhz   1.5gb hardrive (i have 120 and most of it is free) and the video card needs to be 16mb/3D.
Have you done the FOLLOWING activities on a regular basis?

• Scanned for Viruses/Trojan Horses/Spyware
  
• Defragmented Hard Disk Drive/Partitions
  
• Cleaned registry
  
• Cleaned system case and removed excessive dust built-up
  

since i had the new parts fitted i ran a full system reload and wiped everything off.

I have replaced the print/image drum on my Okidata Microline lazer C7400 PRINTER.  

I cannot clear the replace drum message.  I have checked the manual to no avail....

Any HELP out there would be APPRECIATED...Are you SURE that it has been installed properly?

[GLB]Flame[/glb]from okidata
Do I Have to Reset the Counters When I Change the Consumables?Doc #:3187      
Category:Product Usage      
Last Updated: 19/06/2002
No you do not. All of the consumables, which include the Image Drums, Fuser, and Transfer Belt, have an automatic detection technology which resets the life counters. (This does not include the toner cartridges.)
all the components are activated automatically except the toner take the drom out again switch the printer of then on and replace the the drum it should then detect the new drum.

I have a Pentium Pro 200MHZ. Should I have an active heat sink?



-JohnIndubitably.yes! Quote

I have a Pentium Pro 200MHz. Should I have an active heat sink?

 

-John

A while back my keyboard encountered problems. I've narrowed it down to some type of virus or spyware, but I can't seem to get rid of it. mMy keyboard goes through delays from when I type something. Actually as I type this message nothing appears in the box, and nothing will show up for atleast another 30 seconds. Its really slowing me down when I write reports, or need to find something ion the internet, or even play a game. McAffee keeps telling me I have a virus, and I scan, and it finds one, but the keyboard problem continues. Any help?Perform the following objectives in safe mode whilst having SYSTEM restore disabled.

• Scan for Viruses
  
• Scan for Spyware
  
• Scan for Trojan Horses
  

How do I disable system restore?

Have you checked your keyboard settings?

To do so, follow these steps:

1. Start
2. Settings
3. Control Panel
4. Keyboard

I have a pc with a 20G hard drive.  I am trying to install a Western Digital Cavier 160G as a slave.  I have the jumpers set correctly with the 20G on the end of the cable and the 160G in the middle, but computer still doesn't see the 160G.  What am I not doing to fix this?

James SharpJames,

There are lots of possible causes including a bad cable or drive.  Here are some general comments:
- older model PCs/operating systems/bios may not be ABLE to recognize larger drives without added control software (bios utilities, overlays, DDO, drivers, etc.)
- check all cables and connectors.  Pins are EASILY bent or broken if forced
- reboot the computer and listen to make sure the drive motor starts
- in your Bios setup, verify that your drive is recognized
- reboot your computer by pressing the CTRL, ALT and DELETE keys simultaneously. If the drive is recognized after you reboot the system, the computer BIOS test may be completing before the drive is ready
- check for I/O address conflicts
- additional detail and checks are here:  http://www.directron.com/hdts.html#3
And...as always, FOLLOW ESD and electrical safety precautions when working on sensitive electronics.

Dell
Did you partition and format the new drive.It sounds to me that someone is trying to insert a SATA/PATA drive into a legacy IDE connector.

In short, your Motherboard is too old.
You may use a add-on CONTROLLER to support this drive.

You should dump the 20GB drive for performance reasons.You can't hook up a SATA HDD to an IDE controller...where is SATA mentioned in this ? ?

IDE HDD's are backwards compatible all the way to ATA 66 anyways.

patio.  You could backward compatible support your HD. It will never reach the full potential thought.

Most 160GB drives are no longer standard IDE 40pin drives anymore. Even the flat cable is 80pins instead of 40pins.

My conclussion is therefore not misplaced.. SATA/PATA.
And I BELIEVE this is where he is going wrong.. The flat cable.

And your MOBO must understand the geomatry for a 160GB drive.. BIOS updates ** MIGHT ** solve this.

Daughter told me the monitor was not working on our dell Tower so I changed out the monitor. The new monitor still did not work but then I noticed that when I rebooted the computer the lights on the keyboard would flicker during boot up but then no response after that. (Like no lights when you put the numlock on.)
My first thought was that the video CARD was bad but would that also cause the keyboard to go too. Any help on this problem would be GREAT. Thanks<<...when I rebooted the computer the lights on the keyboard would flicker during boot up...>>
That's normal.

SEE if you can get to BIOS.  If you don't know how, what is model number of your Dell, or better yet, what is the Service Tag Number?No can not get to the bios. Even tried booting from the XP Cd. no luck. I can see the computer reading the CD but nothing on monitor.  The monitor light even dims out
like when the monitor is on but the computer is not.    I have the same problem with my pc.   I am unable to see nothing on the screen even though that seems the motherboard is working.  It can be the adapter, the video card o what? i am lost here... please help...Does anyone know if the keyboard could be the problem?? What are the chances of the keyboard and video card going at the same time??Questions:

1. Is the VGA connector properly connected?
2. Is the videocard firmly seated?
3. Is the keyboard connector firmly seated?
4. Is it an USB keyboard?

Suggestion:

1. In case of an USB keyboard, connect it to another USB PORT and see if it helps.Yes the VGA is properly connected.
It is a USB keyboard and have tried in other ports.
STill no go expect for the intial boot up lights on the keyboard.
Will check to make sure the video card is well seated.  Does the computer boot without the keyboard connected?UNPLUGGED keyboard and still does not boot up.sounds like the mother board is gone its a dell right? famouse for it send it back Quote

unplugged keyboard and still does not boot up.

Hello all, I was wondering if it is at all POSSIBLE to connect or link 2 video cards together so that they work in sync. :-/

Im not having framerate problems, but i would LIKE to have higher graphics settings in the games I play without spending  another $600. The 2 cards I want to connect is an nVIDIA GeForce FX 5200 with 128 MB of VRAM in a PCI Slot, and an nVIDIA GeForce4 MX Integrated GPU with 128 VRAM on the motherboard (my settings say its in an AGP 4X slot but its not). The MAIN card I use is the 5200. If there is a way to do this and you know of it, it would be immensely appreciated if you would post how to do it.

Thanks,
User_XYes you can have 2 video cards in use in the same system (on XP machines) but you would be using 2 separate monitors.

You CANT combine their power into one display, if that's what you wre thinking?

Also the PCI card has to be in PCI slot 1 and then configured as the primary display.Buy SLI ready technology.Yes pcwizards, thats what I was thinking, about putting both the video cards power into one display.

Im not sure but I think I may have done it. I extended my destop to the MX card and I turned up the graphics in the game to the highest settings they could go. I thought I was going to have framerate ISSUES (like when I always try to play it on the highest settings) but it appears that I dont now. The game runs perfectly, without any hitches, or lags. I even took the resolution to 1024 x 768 x 32 (it was 800 x 600 x 32) and it runs like never before. I think ive done it!

Note that this game is Unreal Tournament 2004.

P.S. What is 'SLI ready technology'?

Later,

User_X I dont believe you will achieve greater speeds over two different slots. PCI slots have different clock speeds as apposed to AGP slots. Hardware wise you wont win.
Software wise, you will have a dual screen.

I REPLACED my power supply and now i cant get either one of my cd drives to read cd's. if i plug them both in, i get an error; physical memory dump; but if i leave the one out, the computer runs, but without the one cd drive i left plugged in working. It has powere and will open and close and i can HEAR it start to spin the cd's, but will not play on the computer. When i go to ACCESS the drive it is not there. i Have no idea what is wrong and would APPRECIATE any help.Two things.

Your power supply should be 400Watts or more.

Second, by disconnecting the one cd-rom drive, you did   upset the master/slave relationship on the cable. Try disconnecting the other and reconnecting power to the other. This device would be AVAILABLE.

I'm still learning about pc's, and there is much more to be learned I think. My current question is: Can I join a 40 gig and a 20 gig hard drive and use them as one? No slave drive! If this can be done, I would be incredibly grateful to the PERSON who told me how! Quote

Can I join a 40 gig and a 20 gig hard drive and use them as one?

Hahlo,

Has anyone any suggestions on what to use the line in for that is on the back of the computer TOWER....

Thanks,

Bluessmith   Usually a microphone. Other audio devices can be plugged into this as well so that you can RECORD audio from them as files.I use the 'line in' from my mixer, to a program called "Audiograbber", that catpures my music as an MP3.  It's a free download, and works pretty well.

It's not as NICE as some of the more hi-fi programs like ProTools, but it does WORK.

Hi all,

I have the HP PSC 500 and when I try to PRINT multiple copies the first page PRINTED, laying in the tray, is not PUSHED out far enough and the SECOND page gets stopped by it.  If I pull the page out MANUALLY then the second page prints all right but I have to manually pull each page out so that the next page will feed.  

Is there a solution to this problem?

how can I tell if my motherboard and cpu are going out ?
or if it is the hard DRIVE ? or all of it ?
I am running a  ECS K7S5A MB and a AMD Athlon 1800 XP CPU . I have replaced the powersource and the battery. I keep it up to date. run ALL virus scans and hardware moniters. NOTHING shows up as being bad.
the date and time reverts to Dec 15,2001 and I lose all
BIOS and other settings.    puter_rage ......What O/S are you using ?

Will the pc boot up ok ....despite the wrong date ?

What happens when you change the time and date to the correct one ?

let us know

dl65  Your CMOS battery may be empty.

I suggest you refer to the mainboard manual to see where the CMOS battery is located and then replace it.

The correct name for the CMOS battery WOULD be CR2032. This will be understood by any sales person who sells batteries.

Be aware of electro-static discharge whilst working INSIDE a system case.dl65 and Raptor, I run with Win XP home edition. I have replaced the battery ( I made sure it was a high $$$$$).
The puter boots up ok at times. then at times the CMOS and all the settings have a size "is wrong error". I have to boot it up by F8  for DEFAULT settings.
I appreciate the info and your help.
thanks  puter_rageHave you attempted to Flash your BIOS in the past?

Hello All
Having a strange PROBLEM with a cpu upgrade. Have a MSI 975P motherboard (latest BIOS) and have a Intel P4 2.4 GHZ CPU in it now and am trying to put a 3.0 Ghz CPU in it. When I put the cpu in and reboot it turns on and runs but it does not send a signal to the monitor so I can not get into the bios. If I take it back out and put the old on in it boots OK. Have tried to clear the CMOS and it does not help,still the same problem with no signal to the monitor. Does anyone know what I am doing wrong?

MelmakAre you positive that CPU works with that motherboard? Is it a new CPU?Hi GX1_man
Thsi CPU worked in ANOTHER computer and the MSI 975P will take this CPU.

MelmakHi GX1_man
Thsi CPU worked in another computer and the MSI 975P will take this CPU.

MelmakAnd there is no chance it could have been damaged by ESD or physical damage during the transplant?Power down & on 3 times shortly after each other. 5sec gap preffered, or you could trash the HD.

This will force the auto detect CPU feature on on the BIOS to look for a new CPU. This helps too against over clocking problems. In AFFECT, this is your category.

First, thanks for any help on this, it is much appreciated.  I'm experienced with computer troubleshooting, but this has got me stumped, and all the reading of forums can help me thus far.

Recently I upgraded my system, and have started to have a problem I havent seen before.  The problem occurs in any graphics intensive game (DoD: Source, Earth 2160, anything really) at any random stop during regular gameplay, occuring sooner [5-10min] on higher settings and eventually [20min-40min] on lower settings.  The problem, no matter what the game, is always the same: the center point of the screen suddenly has a few dozen lines randomly pointing into with each triangle filled with a color-test style pattern (hot pink, blue with green checkers, complete randomness).  This will go L.S.D. on me for about 5-10 seconds, then the computer will just shut itself off.

First thought: Overheating- probaly not the situation.  The same thing occured if I took the side off my case and put a big fan pointing straight on my CPU/GPU, didnt change a thing.  The temperature of my CPU is fine, and the GPU isnt great, but isnt bad either.  Overall, I have a well-cooled case with 4 X 120mm fans.

Second: memory.  I ran the test from www.memtest.org or whatever overnight, which came back 100% perfect.  If there is anything else to test/investigate there, I am all ears.

Third: Drivers- I installed the new drivers, many, many times.  Different versions, ect.  The only thing I havent tried extensivly with drivers, is attempting to install an old version of them.  

Other things that people have suggested is my PSU, which is a brand new 450w generic.  Dont just tell me to get a new one please, before I START replacing random parts I need to be sure it will fix the problem.  Thats what everyone else has done.

Well thats the status of my problem, I am stuck here.
Platform:
WIN XP x64 Professional SP1
Athlon 64 3700+
Sapphire RADEON 9800 Pro 128mb AGP running x64 Catalyst drivers
K8N Neo2 Motherboard AGPw/ nVidia chipset
1.00 GHz Kingston PC3200 RAM
PSU: 450watt generic

Thanks again,
Stephen
msn: [email protected] Quote

Other things that people have suggested is my PSU, which is a brand new 450w generic.  Dont just tell me to get a new one please, before I start replacing random parts I need to be sure it will fix the problem.  Thats what everyone else has done.

A no signal on the MONITOR screenThis is TOOO MUCH information   OVERWHELMING, and thanx.

patio.

Hi there..
I have this problem with my new DVD-burner...
The DRIVE should be able to burn at 16x on DVD+R, but will only burn at 4x.. Does anyboby know how this can be...? -I can't change the speed in Nero..
The thing is, that the DVD i'm trying to burn on, is DVD+RW and DVD+R, and Nero and my drive, can't ID the disc as any other thing as a DVD+RW, which only can be burned at 4x.. My old burner could burn on the same disc's with 8x... Can ANYBODY tell my why i have this problem, and how to fix it..?

I HOPE so..

ThanksYou should be able to change the burn speed in nero. I know i can with NeroMartin Jørgensen...... Have you checked your new burners spec ......its possible that the new one will only burn a DVD at 4x despite the fact that it will burn a cd at 16x

Check the write speed of the DVD disks your using , they are probably write speed 4 x

Hope this helps,

dl65  This may sound strange, but
are you using a usb 1 port or
USB2??
Crly1264hi I only ASKED about the usb ports because mine did the same thing until I bot
a new USB2 card  now mine burns faster
good luck tho
crlya dvd will only write at the max the disc can accept, if the disc are 4x or 8x or 16x there are very few 16x disc available and they are expensive so i doubt that  you are using  a 4x disc and thats the speed you will max out at.

ok heres what I got:

ABIT NF8 Seriese motherboard
1 GIG RAM
GFORCE 6600 GT AGP 8.0x
40 gig hard drive
cd-rom
Cooler Master Case


ok everything seemed O.K. when I put it together but when I turn it on, the only thing that shows on the screen is


              "Monitor Self Test"

Im getting real mad    and really want to fix this problem soon!



I tried: clearing CMOS
reinstalling GFX card
reinstalling motherboard
reinstalling hard drive

but that doesn't help!


PLEASE email me: [email protected]   if you want to help.




Thank you.or reply to this threadSo when you turn it on nothing is working? Hard drive not spinning up? CPU fan not turning? Have you any experience building computers? We need to know how savvy you are.  I had experience with building computers...


everything turns on except the monitor.... when I turn it on the only thing it has on it is that "monitor test screen" signAt startup tap F8 repeatedly til it starts and CHOOSE Safe Mode. This will load generic video drivers. If the monitor is working congratulations that means it's not the monitor.
Go to Control Panel Hardware and remove the vid card.
On reboot have your drivers ready for that vid card and re-install them.Disable onboard videocard if you are making use of an expansion videocard.my keyboard doesnt seem to have POWER.... when I click to test if it works (by clicking one of the lock buttons) the light doesnt COME on...So now there are 2 things known not to work. What kind of power supply and was it new? Reseat everything and replug all connectors. It sounds like a mis-build.power supply = 400 Watts


I tried rebuilding the comp 3 or 4 times...hello?Are you using a ps2 keyboard?Buy a new keyboard, hook it up with the power off and re-boot the machine.
Then try some of the things that have been suggested here.

patio.  ok im gonna try

It seems like we've had a rash of people with SELF assembled computers not working lately. Besides being some quirky non-working between some specific components, what do the members of this FORUM find to be the most common ISSUES?

Improperly seated components
Bad Components
Motherboard shorting out in case
Lack of basic COMPUTER knowledge - not jumpering drives, wrong RAM, etc.
Bad power supplies

Cast your vote now!

WHen I TRY to send the video from my graphics card to my tv, as expected, my monitor went black, but so did my tv, it's on the right channel, the tv fliockers, so I know that it's hooked up right, but all I get is a black screen. I can tell it's trying to push the video to it because there is a big black box, with a different colour box around it. Furthermore, I can't get picture back on my monitor. I even unplugged the card from the tv, and still, it trys to send the video to tv when I restart, I'm running in safemode now to try to fix this problem. Once again, I appreciate the help, and can't wait to get this thing to work...
Without any knowledge of what you are using or trying to run (graphics card model, PC model, etc.), all I can do is guess.

- your graphics card may be bad, misinstalled, set incorrectly or?  Check and reseat card with PC off. You probably can't reset your card configuration in Safe Mode either. Can give you more troubleshooting details in exchange for the card information.  If you don't have the info, try right-clicking on an empty PART of your Desktop then select Graphics Options>Properties.  Your card should be listed in Info.

- your TV monitor cable(s) may be bad or incorrectly installed. Check and reseat plugs/connectors

- I assume you are using the video out or s-video out of the graphics card to feed your TV monitor?  TV monitor should be set to video, not a TV channel

- With PC off, unplug your TV monitor and reconnect your PC monitor.  Restart PC.  Does it work in NORMAL mode?
Some graphics cards will only allow you to use a PC monitor or a TV monitor, but not both.  Did you try the TV monitor alone?
Again more help when you give US the card info.

Dell

The DVD reader/burner on my PC no no longr recognises cd's in any form, IE music cd, data cd or blank cd for me to write. Please can someone confirm that its dead and not a software issue before I splash some cash on a new one

thanks guysMake of PC?
Operating System?
What diagnostics have you tried?

Try booting off a DOS disc and going to the root of the optical drive that contains a cd and then use the DIR command.

If you get 'not ready reading drive x' it's no longer of this world. If it lists FILES then it's software related.Remove your DVD device from the Device Manager.
(Right click my computer->Manage->Device Manager.

Restart PC.
Next logon windows will redetect the device.

keep in MIND that Windows XP users can lock a device in use if they have switched between users.

can SOMEONE tell me which Processor out right now is the best or fastest of wateverWhat will you be using this processor for? (gaming, etc.)

[glb]Flame[/glb]AMD Athlon
Intel Pentium

The fastest processor system is IBM's Blue Gene/L.  It uses 32,768 processors to run at 280.6 TFLOPS (1012 FLOPS) [trillion calculations per second]. The Blue Gene/L prototype is a customized version of IBM's PowerPC architecture.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supercomputer
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/technology/4386404.stm
But, don't LOOK for one at BestBuy anytime soon.

Dellsrry i wasnt specfic enough i meant for overall LIKE gaming dvds and stuff like thatBest or fastest for games sounds like an AMD64. The speed you choose depends on your budget.Nice Find, Dell...

patio.  

Hi

I recently updated my DVD-RW drive, removing the old one and putting in a new one.  I had an expansion slot for this purpose.  Now my computer ONLY recognizes the new Pioneer one, and not the default computer one.  I dont know much about the connections, so its probably my own fault.  The old one has POWER (its constantly blinking for some reason).  If anyone has any ideas, it would be very helpful.

Thanks.R Fabs..... Did you set the jumper on the back of the new dvd  drive you are installing as a slave ...and the existing one as the master ?

let us know

dl65  You most likely neglected to set one drive to Master and one to Slave if they are connected through the same IDE CABLE.Thanks for your replies...how do I set one as master, one as slave?  ThanksR Fabs....well , if you remove the cd - rom  or the DVD drive and hold it so your looking at the rear of it ...you should see looking from right to left .......  the LOCATION where the 4 pin power plug goes ..then next to that will be the multi pin socket where the IDE cable plugs in then ......the next set of pins ( one set will have a jumper installed ) these are the ones you select based on which pins are to be jumpered based on the info usually located on the top ( rear ) of the drive ........
You should see the various options ..... ie Master , slave , cable select . The drive whichever is ( was PLUGGED into the end of the IDE cable should have its jumpers set as Master .......... the second drive should have its jumpers set as the slave and it will plug into the IDE connector thats in the middle .

Hope this helps

dl65  Okay so I did that, and my system now recognizes both- master and slave.

However, now the master one isnt responding.  It will not open when I touch the eject button, nor when I right click on it to eject.  Thanks for taking the time with this one, I just fear I will mess it up royally if not coached.

ThanksQuestion:

1. Is the power cable connector firmly connected?

Suggestion:

1. Try a different power cable connector.

I had a Dell, previously I had problem accesing internet, the computer was slow and after few minutes start rebooting by itself. I tried decompressing and running antivirus, but nothing.  I decided to restart the system (I was using windows xp), but I did not have the cd that came with this computer so I use the cd from another dell computer. It seems to run ok, but after two weeks the computer does not start at all. What was wrong, I am novice, but I believe that is a problem with the power supply, I am right? Quote

... I am novice, but I believe that is a problem with the power supply, I am right?

...the only problem that I had was that the internet connection was slow and the computer start rebooting by itself. Now is completely dead. It does not start at all...

Some of tyhe keys on my keyboard are not producing the symbols they should when struck. Possibility of more than one keyboard driver installed on system (windows XP) . Any advice on how to resolve this problem, please.Is the keyboard compatible with your system? Have you TRIED updateing the drivers for the keyboard from the internet?

[GLB]Flame[/glb] Quote

Some of tyhe keys on my keyboard are not producing the symbols they should when struck. Possibility of more than one keyboard driver installed on system (windows XP) . Any advice on how to resolve this problem, please.

Oh, the joy of laptops.

Today i NOTICED that my laptop was doing the famous battery/charging problem with the movement of the ac cord. While this did not surpise me, i then noticed that when i had it on ac power, the battery would be at say, 67% and it would not charge. If it said chargeing, it wouldn't be chargeing. So i popped the battery out and noticed it still ran. I then bent the cord so that it would say chargeing on battieres, and lo' and behold it shut off. It would power back on with the cord bent to when it would register on ac power and run fine. I left it in this position overnight and it ran fine and hiberanited fine, sides when the cord MANAGED to move and it would say chargeing/on ac power but the battery power would be dropping.

So i ethier have a flawed bat, the dc card/power connector isn't working correctly, or the cord is bad...I'am assumeing it's the cord because of a few reasons right now, but i'am wondering what others take on this might be.

I know if i have to send it off for warranty repair (its under three years old with a 3 year warranty) this GIRL will die without her IRC or MUDS..i think theres a SPARK problem on the cord or a short where its not chargeing the battery.

Edit: Yes,i am trying to get a second cord to test if it is the ac cord.If its still under warranty there is no reason NOT to send it in as trying to fix it yourself could void the warranty...

patio.  

p.s. This actually sounds LIKE it could be the power connector on the MBoard itself which is another reason to let them handle it.

Hello all, I am continually TRYING to do things I havent done and "messing" with all sorts of projects. ANYWAY, I have gotten ahold of a couple of older pc's. I WOULD like to swap the 600MHz proc. in ONE for a 1.1 GHz , they are both socket 370. Will I run into any problems doing this? Is it pretty straightforward?  Any advice?  The proc's are P3 Celerons. Intel Whitney chipset mobos.Obtain the mainboard manual to see if the processor it compatible with the mainboard.

Is there a difference between using ethernet or usb port connections for the internet as far as quality or speed are concerned ? And, do I have to let my provider know that I will be switching to ethernet from usb port?
When hooking up a new computer to the internet via cable (ethernet), do I have to reconfigure anything? Or write down the PRESENT configuration?
Thanks! I JUST switched from USB to Ethernet, and notice no difference really... Also, it is NOT necessary to contact your ISP about how you will be connectiong... Hope this helps!    (Yay! I just hit 3,000 posts!)

[glb]Flame[/glb]MarleneD..... You should only have to connect the cat 45 cable from the cable modem to the ethernet port in the tower .......then if you have a anti virus program installed ...open EXPLORER and your up and running ....you will have to setup your mail account ( in outlook express ) just create a new account and use the same settings as you had on the other pc .

dl65  The USB port has to SHARE bandwith with other USB devices, the Network Interface Card does not.Marlene... I just now noticed something... I ran a Norton Live Update, and the download speed seemed faster... Just a THOUGHT...

[glb]Flame[/glb]Thanks for the info y'all!  I just ORDERED a new computer and can't wait to set it up! I think it has 8 usb ports - that will be very helpful; no more plugging and unplugging stuff.
Congrats on the hit 3,000 Flame!Thanks  

[glb]Flame[/glb]