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When i press the power button on my computer i get no video signal and the Busy light on the front of the machine stays steady but the Green light blinks periodicly.

Im thinking SOMETHING might be loose or stuck beacuse the side of it was kicked and when i opened it up i heard a clicking noise that SOUNDED like it was from one of my Harddrives.

Help would be appreciated.

-CasvalFirst of all, can you confirm it is coming from you hard drive?

Second of all, if it is coming from the Hard Drive, STOP USING IT and post back.I Unplugged the power from one drive and ran it then repeated that and found out that its actually comming from my ReWriter drive.Oh good.

I have a THEORY as to your problem. The CD Drive may have been damaged and Windows is trying to boot from a CD which may or may not be in there.
I suggest (since you are in the computer), Unplug the CD Drive and try to boot the computer again.The drive has been Unpluged but the lights are the same and there is still no video.When you turn the computer on, exactly what happens?

Since the computer was kicked, make sure everything is connected properly. Perhaps a cable GOT loose or something.

Any idea how hard the brunt of the attack was and where?It was kicked in the Bottom right side opposide the motherboard where my Drives are.

I have checked all of the connections from the drives to the board/powersource and from the Graphics card to the Motherboard and they are all still Tight.

What happens is i press the button and the Two lights on the front light up and i get no Video signal, Even when its plugged in and Screwed down.

It was kicked and slightly dented by an 9 year old.Do you have another monitor you could try?

I would try re-seating everything. For example, remove the RAM and then put it back in. Unplug the Video Card, and then plug it back in, ect...Was it hit while computer was on? Your hard drive might have been damaged.Thankyou for you help Carbon.
My computer is up and running now, after i reinserted the RAM and Videocard it started RUNING good as new.Nice job, Carbon Quote from: Broni on August 16, 2008, 10:59:33 AM

Nice job, Carbon

I have an E-Machines mini tower RUNNING Windows XP. The SYSTEM had turned off (like a power failure) then rebooted several times. The last time this happened, the system was very slow so I restarted and now I get a message as FOLLOWS: Press F2 to enter BIOS setup and press F10 to enter CMOS setup (neather enter the setup). I replaced the power supply thinking that was the issue, however, it has the same screen. Could this be the hard drive or mother board and if so how can I verify prior to PURCHASING replacemet parts?I suggest you try changing the CMOS Battery (on the motherboard).

Also, if you enter the BIOS, can you see the Hard Drive listed anywhere?Yes, I finally got into the BIOS and the hard drive is listed. Attempted to start in safe mode (no luck) but was able to get system booted. Ran SCAN disk attempmted to do system restore (did not take). So you think the mother board battery may be the cause or replacing? I'm willing to try that...should save some $$$$.

Thanks for the info!Just the battery, not too expensive.

You can try removing it for about 10 minutes first and see what happens.

If it doesn't work, replace it.

Hello,

I just FINISHED reformatting my computer and as I was installing my programs from my backup external HD, I tripped on the power cord of the HD and it fell 2 feet onto the floor. . It was placed on top of a vertical desktop case that is sitting on the floor so that's about 2 feet. But after I restarted the HD, it started clicking!

Does that mean it is dead? And if so, how can I recover my data without the expensive data recovery?

If you can help me out, it'll be appreciate it.It kinda sucks when a 12 page report is on the back up HD and now it's GONE... =\... Sigh.. all that goo ideas into a great essay. Again, if anyone can help me out, that'll be very awesome of you.

Thanks.

-KevinSo can you access the data on the external?
If you can you should transfer your data asap.
If you do GET it going again, DONT turn it off until you have backed up everything you want to save.Make sure everything is connected before turning it on.
Once Windows sees it, immediately back the important stuff first.
Then try backing up the next step down from important stuff, and then everything else if you must.

If the Hard Drive is clicking, it is damaged most likely beyond repair.]

Good Luck.Oh deng... well, in the first place... I was loading the data from the external to the internal and after some time, I just plugged the ext hd back into the motherboard etc etc 8 hours later after my accidental drop. But can you somehow recover at least SOME of the files from the ext HD? Some of these files cannot be recovered while some of it can... but the unrecoverable files just ranges about 20 .txt and .doc files and all...

And wow, so the clicking is beyond repair...?

How much is it to just recover about 1 MB of files? @[emailprotected]

From what I have read, the clicking sounds coming from the Hard Drive usually comes from the Arm either touching the surface of the Platter or the arm hitting the magnet which has crumbled under impact.

So, unless you have a way to open up the drive, repair the magnet, and close the drive (all in a CLEAN and dust-free environment), there is no way to fix it.

I received a 10-year-old computer from a friend who complains that it is running very very slow (slower than a tortoise!).

When I checkout the RAM, it has 2 x 128 MB DDR 133 RAMs installed, but only 96 MB is detected.
I've tested both the RAMs and they are OK.

Is it possible that the memory slots (DIMM?) on the motherboard that are defective?

Thanks.It's possible that either the RAM or the slot is faulty.
Is the RAM detected in the BIOS?
Try each slot with one stick of RAM, then the other.Is the ram of the same mfg? somtimes there is conflict .The two RAM are not from the same manufacturer, but they are working FINE in the past.

I've tested both the RAM :

1. one stick on each slot - error "long beep" and cannot BOOT (same with either stick and either slot)
2. replace both STICKS - OK, but BIOS still detected only 96 MB (either same manufacturer or not, and either slot) download MEMTEST and run the test You can find the site at majorgeeks.com under memoryI removed and RESEATED both the RAMs a few times, and it works now.
So I guess there must be some kind of contact problem with the socket/holder.

I've also tested both the RAMs with MemTest and no error was found.

Thanks.

hii..i have a Kingston's pen drive of 4 GB. but it does not work with my pc. i have checked it on the other computers & LAPTOPS. it is working there. so please help me what should be the problem??? i have pc with configration- intel celeron processor 1.1 ghz, 128 MB RAM with WIN XP- SP2....
please reply soon
thanksWhat happens when you plug it in? Any info bubble lower right? or not? if so what does it say?

128 RAM - this is if correct far too LOW for XP - even 256 is cutting it very fine. Leaving aside this current problem - an investment in extra RAM should make WHOLE system way better. A 1Gb stick or 2X 512 would be more than useful!Does this happen to other pendrives too? Or only this particular pendrive?

mt LAPTOP is not old and has good video drivers but the screen comes in rather dull it has no color but when i hook the laptop up to an EXTERNAL moniter the colors are deep and vibrent co i know its not the laptop or the parts in it!Not necessarily true...

When you say the screen is dull...

Do you mean no color? No back light?

Possibly the LCD screen inverter on your laptop may be bad.no the backlight WORKS and is bright and the screen has color its not black and WHITE the color is just very PALE.`Check your video settings in Control Panel (or right click on desktop).

Your video card should have come with some sort of software. Get into it and see what you can do.

my HP Pavillion a630n, using the Windows XP FORMAT, has a Lite-On Dvd+RW SOHW-802S recorder that will not acknowledge/accept blank discs........i have three (3) different name brands (HP, Kodak and Sony) that i am using, and all 3 are being 'ignored'.......i have done the uninstall and re-install on the hardware........have gone to run/msconfig/service and the IMARI CD Burning Com appears as 'running'........have gone to Administrative Tools/Services and Imari CD-B is listed as 'started' and on Automatic........the unit (Lite-On) shows and plays 'factory pre-recorded' cds....but, will not recognize and play 'homemade' music cdrs........could appreciate any and all help.............cheers.............
Latest Drivers perhaps?

Does the disc work on other computers ? Un install the drive and then re install Some burners use different lasers for reading and burning....sounds as if one has gone South...

NEW dual-layer DVD burners are about 40 BUCKS SHIPPED from newegg.com if you are in the States...

Is it possible to intall the HD from my old computer, with XP, into a new computer that will have Vista in it? I've been told that the old data won't be recognized, that the old HD isn't compatible....HELP???!!!That depends...

Are you just transferring the HD as a storage drive...or are you trying to transfer files? Vista should recognize the drive...as well as the files, but if you're looking at using programs...Vista MAY not be able to run them.

Here's a good read for ya:

Transfer files and settings from another computerActually, I'd like to get my old data off of the old HD; now, if I could run things off it, as well, that WOULD be good, too.
But primarily, this is a priority to get my data off the old HD. Mostly pix.
I called the GEEK Squad, and someone there told me that if I had an EIDE HD, that I wouldn't be able to retrieve any of the old data off it, since the new computers now all have the SATA drives - incompatible for retrieval. But I would be able to use it once I reformatted it for Vista. Does that mke any sense???I dont know if my POST will help but if you want you can transfer files ect. by using a software called Acronis Acronis true image 8The guy at Geek Squad has an extra hole in his HEAD, my friend.

There are several ways around your problem. While the programs on the drive may not be compatible with Vista...there are a couple of things you can do. One of them would be to follow the advice from my previous link.

The others would be to buy an SATA to IDE CONNECTOR so you can use the drive internally...being able to view files, data, photos, documents, pictures, etc., etc. That is...if you have an additional connector...and room for the drive itself. Another option would be to connect the drive via an external USB case...for under $40. You have an external drive, as well as access to your data.OK, let's see if I have this right......I can buy the new Vista computer, take my old HD out of the old XP machine, install it in the new machine (along with an adaptor connector, EIDE -to-SATA), and, voila! I have an additional HD to run alongside the Vista HD? And that would work if there's room in the new Vista case? If not, then buy a case for my old HD, and run a cable to my new machine, also using an adaptor to hook it up?Option one: Transfer files and settings from another computer

Option two: Use an SATA to IDE connector to connect your drive internally.

Option three: Purchase an external USB hard drive case to mount the XP HD in for use as an external drive.

Someone at the computer store (where you decide to purchase your Vista machine) should be able to follow those three options I have given you.

All of them should work. However, please remember...these options only apply to specific files, documents, etc., etc. For program compatibility...you should visit the programs manufacturer for updated software...okay?

I hope this helps, my friend.Many thanks! Take care....You're welcome...

Please keep us posted and let us know what you decide to do. This way...anyone having the same problem as you will know what to do and if it did/didn't work for you...okay?


All the best!

Steve

And what happens when you plug it in when the computer is on?

I am trying to change the size of the fonts for my printer..all the printing comes out tiny..Need to enlarge...Appreciate any help with this...This could be a problem with how your printer is set up. Most printers use graphic drawing now, and dont have built in fonts.

How old is this printer?

Did you try to increse the font in the word processor you are USING?

GO to Start> Accessories> WordPad
Type something (The Quick Brown Fox Jumps Over the Lazy Dog is a default test sentence...)
Try printing that out, and see if it works. If it prints fine, its probably a problem with a program you are using, that is resizing documents for you.
If it prints small, try this:
Stick the same PIECE of paper in backwards into the printer to save paper, no need to get a new ONE. In that same document, select everything and change the size to something bigger, then print it again.
Is the TEXT getting bigger? If its the same size even then, let us know. Also, make sure, that in printer settings, paper size is set to "letter".

Think carefully about epoxy - the lid is meant to come apart in ORDER to replace the LCD screen.

Good luck!Carbon Dudeoxide: Thank you very much. I checked the link and it Looks like nearly all HP dv9000 have the same problem. . I will FOLLOW those directions and TRY to repair it myself when I get back home. Right now I am about 1500 miles from home and handicaped with limited working space etc. Thanks again for your help. I will never again recommend a HP NOTEBOOK to my friends. Thank you also, Believer. You guys are the greatest, keep up the good WORK and know that you are apppreciated. JIMThanks for the kind comments, Jim Mar. We appreciate it.

Quote

I will never again recommend a HP notebook to my friends.

Hello.

I have a Dell Inspiron 5100 Notebook with Windows XP Service Pack 2, and it has a little problem.

All of a sudden after 5 years of use, my laptop's backlight keeps going out at random times, from every 30 seconds, to every 10 minutes. I do not KNOW what is causing the problem, but it only HAPPENS when the AC Adapter is unplugged. When i plug the AC Adapter in, it continues to go out. I know it is the backlight because when it GOES out, i can still see the desktop and all the icons if i shine a flashlight onto the screen, but it is extremely hard to see. I have to close and open the laptop for the screen to come back on. I have ran diagnostics test and everything passed, but the backlight still goes off during the test as if the computer is working normally.

Sometimes when i move the screen around, the backlight stays on longer before it goes out, but once it goes out, it continues to go off every 30 seconds afterwards. I can confirm it is not a overheating problem. I can confirm the backlight is working fine because it continues to come on everytime i close and open the laptop.

My question is, could this be a software or hardware problem? Could the LCD Screen on my laptop be going out?

*I have tried safe mode and the backlight still goes out.

*I have tried system restore.

*I have tried squeezing the bottom of the screen minimally and it helps KEEP the backlight on longer, but still goes out.mabye a wire is loose were the lcd connects or somethingCan anything else be wrong with my computer? The backlight can't be bad because it doesn't go out at all with the AC Adapter unplugged and the brightness set all the way up.When the blacklight goes out, can you still see anything on the screen if you tilt it slightly or put another light towards it?Yes i can still see everything on the screen but not with eyes alone, i need to use a flashlight or sunlight to be able to see.That either means your Screen Inverter is damaged, or isn't getting ENOUGH power from the battery.....
There isn't much we can do about that from here, I'm afraid.

As of two days ago my external Western Digital hard drive (WD2500JB) was working perfectly without problem. Last night when I went to save a file to it I noticed it wasn't showing up in My Computer. I checked all connections and everything was connected correctly. The blue LED's at the front of the case were powered on, but no activity could be heard. I've taken the drive out of it's case and installed it in both of my desktops. It was not recognized on either computer. All of my iTunes data was on that drive. Some of it can be retrieved from my iPod as well as audio CDs, but a majority of it was from the iTunes Store. The drive is less than a year old. I have everything plugged into surge protectors. My other external drive as well as my Ipod, which have been connected for several days, still work as well as my Router, etc. I'm assuming nothing can be done without spending excessive money on data recovery. Any ideas on what to do would be great.If you are looking at a crashed drive ... as LONG as the drive spins up and the control board is not totally hosed, you can use data recovery software such as getdataback http://www.runtime.org/data-recovery-products.htm Your external HD btw should be Fat32 from factory. If you formatted it to NTFS you will need the NTFS version to recover your data.

Recover even when Windows doesn't recognize the drive-
GetDataBack can even recover your data when the drive is no longer recognized by Windows. It can likewise be used even if all directory information - not just the root directory- is missing.
The problem isn't just that Windows won't recognize the drive, it's that it won't even power up. I think the motor has seized. I don't here anything when I hit the power button on the enclosure.The best thing you can do at this point would be to cross reference the serial # thru WD's database and find out which controller card was used in that drive.
Then try to locate one that's a close enough match.
I've had some success using eBay for this but this is far from a recommendation....I've got good news and bad news. I tried what you said. I obtained a near identical drive from eBay. I than swapped the controller boards. After I put the drive back into the case I connected it up to the adapter and computer. I pressed the power button on the case and what do you know the drive starts spinning. What's the bad news? Well, the drive just continued to make a clicking noise. After about ten seconds the computer just shut off and restarted. I read online that if the controller board isn't a 100% compatible that the drive won't operate correctly. I guess that's what I have now. At least it seems that the motor inside works and that the platters don't appear damaged. I guess I'll start saving up money so I can send the drive in for recovery.Quote from: lordvader781 on August 08, 2008, 09:02:26 PM

Well, the drive just continued to make a clicking noise.

Click of death on start-up - This occurs at start up, where the drive attempts to align to the start of the disk and read the drive profile and Master Boot Record/Bootstrap/Boot Sector.

Bad Head during use - Head failure during use, sometimes cause by a bad spot on disk.

Bad Head

Head Crash - Head failure, caused by the head coming into contact with the disk.

Head Phaser Blast - Head failure, caused by the head getting stuck to the disk.

Bad Spindle Bearings/Motor - Spindle failure, caused by spindle motor or bearings.

I have a 4GB flash drive that has been FORMATTED for only 243mb can I reformat it with the correct size? If so - how?
ThanksI suggest downloading this HP Formatting Tool:
http://files.filefront.com/SP27608exe/;9868201;/fileinfo.html

Try formatting the USB Drive with that. You should be able to RESIZE it.Many THANKS Carbon Dudeoxide --

That worked like a charm - even though I didn't really undertand the mechanics of the operation :-)

I truly appreciate your help.

Regards

EdwardNo problem.

If you NEED any help or advice in the future, you know where to find us.

Does anyone have either an Iomega 250 GB Triple Interface Black SERIES 33090 or Seagate 300 GB Pushbutton Backup ST3300601CB-RK? I so, please share your thoughts.

Some options for which I'm looking are 250 GB min., automatically saves new versions of content, rollback SYSTEM, includes three interfaces, automatically moves copy to MULTIPLE locations such as an internet storage account that can be accessed from any web browser 24/7, 5 yr warranty and 24/7 tech support.

I have a pretty old Dell Latitude D800 laptop which I'm planning to replace soon. I have 2 docking stations for it, one at work and one at home.

I'm required to specify my own replacement (must be Dell), and so far the one which best FITS my work needs appears to be the Dell Precision M6300.

Will the existing Latitude-compatible docking stations I have accommodate the Precision, or will I have to budget for a pair of replacements? So far I've had both a "yes" and a "no" from diferent Dell customer service people and I'm confused!

RobI'm not an expert in that specific area but why are the Docking Stations for? What do they do (what did they do for the other laptop?)They allow me to have full keyboards, mice and additional screens, plus external HDDs, tape drives and permanantly installed network cables set up and ready to go at both home and office. Also give me about 6 additional USB ports. Therefore all I need to do when moving it between locations is to press a button and eject the laptop from one station and slot it into the other. No messing about hooking up a PLETHORA of cables at each end every time I move between locations.

RobAs I said, I'm not sure about that area (the docking station) but I know that looks LIKE a good computer.
This old Lenovo 3000 C200 has 4 USB Ports, VGA Port, PCI Slot, Network Adapter, S Video and a Multi Card Reader.
I'm sure that laptop there will have more. If not, you can alway purchase USB Hubs which can hold NUMEROUS amounts of USB Devices.

However, I'm sure someone will be along to answer your original question.

need your help.... most of the time flash this error message on my PC screen....
whats does it mean? what do i need to do?



iexplorere.exe-Application Error

X The instruction at "ox6600acc" reference memory at "ox6600acc"
The memory COULD not be "read".
Click OK to terminate the program.
First thing for you to do is be explicit in naming the possible executable. First you name it IEXPLORER.EXE then IEXPLORERE.EXE both of which can be found.

Have you Googled for the name?Are you using IE6?You've given us very little to work with.
We don't even know your OS, what you're doing when this HAPPENS, how long it's been happening, what your specs are, what protection you have, or...well, anything. All we know is that you sometimes get an error message.

Without more info, the best I can do is suggest you head over to www.memtest86.com and make a bootdisk so you can test your memory.Quote from: CBMatt on August 09, 2007, 04:36:01 AM

You've given us very little to work with.
We don't even know your OS, what you're doing when this happens, how long it's been happening, what your specs are, what protection you have, or...well, anything. All we know is that you sometimes get an error message.

Without more info, the best I can do is suggest you head over to www.memtest86.com and make a bootdisk so you can test your memory.

Are you using IE6?

First thing for you to do is be explicit in naming the possible executable. First you name it IEXPLORER.EXE then IEXPLORERE.EXE both of which can be found.

Have you Googled for the name?

First thing for you to do is be explicit in naming the possible executable. First you name it IEXPLORER.EXE then IEXPLORERE.EXE both of which can be found.

Have you Googled for the name?

It's probably an infection. Here is an extract from this site.

"Windows errors related to iexplorer.exe ?
iexplorer.exe is a process belonging to the AdClicker advertising program. This process monitors your browsing habits and distributes the data back to the author's servers for analysis. This also prompts advertising popups. This process is a security risk and should be removed from your system."

Another good read is here...

Removal instructions are clear, Google for iexplorer.exe

Good luck



THANK YOU SO MUCH "DUSTY"...... PROBLEM SOLVED!

I am PLANNING to buy a CPU for my Desktop. I am using Intel Celeron D with 2.66GHz and 533Mhz FSB and I want to buy dual core CPU. I am thinking on what CPU Brand will I buy? in other words, What is better CPU brand to buy based on their performance and durability? AMD or Intel? can you help me with this?

thanks for any advice. Well, unless you're going to buy a new motherboard, you're getting an Intel. (I like Intels better anyway, but I'm not even about to get into that debate.)If using the same board make sure the board will accept a larger front side bus than 533.And make sure you get a 775 processor.Go with an intel Core 2 Duo or a Quad Core.He's going to have to tell us which motherboard he has. If it supports a 533Mhz FSB, it will not be 775.Hi jhay_e03!

Try to check the specs below. It is tested by computing experts and professionals.

Source: http://www.anandtech.com/cpuchipsets/showdoc.aspx?i=2771


Machine 1
CPU: AMD Athlon 64 FX-62 (2.80GHz)
Motherboard: nForce 590-SLI Socket-AM2 Motherboard
Chipset: NVIDIA nForce 590 SLI
Chipset DRIVERS: nForce 9.34 Beta
Hard Disk: Hitachi Deskstar T7K250
Memory: DDR2-800 5-5-5-12 (1GB x 2)
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce 7900 GTX
Video Drivers: NVIDIA ForceWare 91.28 Beta
Desktop Resolution: 1280 x 1024 - 32-bit @ 60Hz
OS: Windows XP Professional SP2


Machine 2
CPU: Intel Core 2 Extreme X6800 (2.93GHz)
Motherboard: Intel P965 Motherboard
Chipset: Intel P965 Chipset
Chipset Drivers: Intel 7.3.3.1013
Hard Disk: Hitachi Deskstar T7K250
Memory: DDR2-800 5-5-5-12 (1GB x 2)
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce 7900 GTX
Video Drivers: NVIDIA ForceWare 91.28 Beta
Desktop Resolution: 1280 x 1024 - 32-bit @ 60Hz
OS: Windows XP Professional SP2

Ok my fiances main hard drive is screwed so we moved everything of importance to her secondary drive. So I took that drive out and put it in my computer and it is set to slave. I start up my COMP and right click on my computer and go too manage, and it is SHOWING the drive but not as an active drive. and when I right click it it only gives me the option to make it a basic disk or something I choose that but it tells me that it will erase all data on it which is not what I want too do. I just want to transfer the data too my comp and then use it too install windows on her comp. Is there a step i'm missing? We really don't have the money to buy another hard drive.You might need a second opinion here but I think the drive has become corrupt.

What happens when you Right Click it and go to Properties?

Also, what Operating Systems are on these drives?Sorry I'm using windows xp and I'm almost positive the drive is good since I have only had it a short while and it was only used for storage. and before her main drive went kaput it was working just fine as for what it says under properties I need to hook it up real quick and CHECK. I'll post when I have done that.ok I took some screenie's here they are

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q92/scuzzlebut/1stscreen.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q92/scuzzlebut/2ndscreen.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q92/scuzzlebut/3rdscreen.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q92/scuzzlebut/4thscreen.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q92/scuzzlebut/5thscreen.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q92/scuzzlebut/6thscreen.jpg


I hope these help my problem out.I would first try to see if this drive works on another computer (if possible)

Then I would try to reinstall the drivers for the device.

However, we have to prepare for the worst....

Quote

Ok my fiances main hard drive is screwed so we moved everything of importance to her secondary drive

I decided to reinstall windows on it so I reformatted it and then tried to install windows

I am asking about has already been formatted and has data on it I just want to get the data off it.

Well, is the disc drive an IDE hd or a Sata?

Quote

Well, is the disc drive an IDE hd or a Sata?

I'm not sure. How can I find out?

Intel P3 1.0gb - 256mb ram - mobo Epox EP-3SPA

Trying to install Win.XP
Hdd is recognized in bios on ide1 as is the dvd r/rw on ide2

System boots but does not start setup, just gets to a blank (black) screen with flashing cursor.

So far have tried:-
(a) booting from a hdd which already has XP installed
(b) booting from dvd and floppy (changing boot sequence to suit)
(c) changing dvd and floppy drive to known good ones
(d) changing ribbon cables
(e) setting bios to defaults
(f) reseating ram (when the ram is installed in a second pc Memtest86 finds no problem

Any ideas welcomed.

ThanksCan you get into windows?Also, when you reset the BIOS to defaults, how did you do that? The ultimately best way is to unplug the computer, remove the battery from the MOTHERBOARD, press the power button to assure that all is drained, WAIT ten minutes, and put the battery back and power it up. Quote from: xavier on AUGUST 14, 2008, 07:54:00 PM

Can you get into windows?

Also, when you reset the BIOS to defaults, how did you do that? The ultimately best way is to unplug the computer, remove the battery from the motherboard, press the power button to assure that all is drained, wait ten minutes, and put the battery back and power it up.

Here my problem: My Sony laptop boots up just like it did when it was NEW except now the LCD is a reddish color and very dim. After it has been on for about 3 to 6 minutes it starts to FLICKER and then goes dark. I can attach an EXTERNAL monitor and that WORK just fine. Now the question is it my inverter or the backlight going BAD? Please help??Quote

Now the question is it my inverter or the backlight going bad?

How old is the laptop?

Hi all,
I cannot burn to cd as when I put the disc in the drive tells me the disc is full ! when in fact it is a new clean cd-r, I have also found when I go to my computor/drive/properties, it SAYS disc full when there is not a disc in the drive.

Can anyone help.

ThanksSounds like the Drive is broken. Can it still read CDs? Did you recently add any software to the computer or install any upgrades to the OS?

The quickest test would be to replace the drive with a new one. That's likely the problem. However, it could be software. I haven't HEARD about MS breaking anything, but its is possible, even if unlikely.

RaydudeHi Raydude,
It is not a hardware fault as I have fitted a new one because I could not get the old one to burn.

Thanks.PS,
the drive works ok otherwise ! plays cd dvd etcIts a software problem then. Unfortunately that's beyond my scope. When I use windows to burn it always just works. I can't imaging what could be messed up.

The only thing I can think to try is to reinstall your burning software and check to see if there are any updates available.

You might want to search http://support.microsoft.com to see if others have reported this problem and see what MS tech SUGGEST for fixes.

The other idea is to revert to a previously known good configuration by pressing F8 when you BOOT and select it from the menu.

However, any software installed since the last known good configuration will disappear.

My guess is an upgrade from MS or a software you installed broke SOMETHING. Sorry I can't be more help.

RaydudeOk , thanks for trying.Oh. The last resort is of course a full reinstall. A lot of work to say the least.

RaydudeWhat Windows version? What burning program? Burning CDs, DVDs, or both?

Really good news I'm not an expert in this area so i was wandering: presumably the quick format only released the memory to be written over (like it does when you delete something) rather than a full format which would have rejigged the filesystem - erasing all data?

FBQuote from: Gonz! on August 25, 2008, 11:59:38 AM

Just to let you know:
It took about 4 1/2 hours to read the drive, and then about 12 or 13 hours to actually pull the info out of the formatted drive and into the other one (Both external drives were USB 2.0). Then it took about 7 hours to re-send the info back to the original drive (remember the second drive was borrowed) even so, it took less than 24 hours to leave everything as it was, no harm done. I did, however, have to buy a fan and have it blow on the COMPUTER and both drives to prevent them from overheating during this whole process.

it took me two days with 293 GB.

Quote

it took me two days with 293 GB.

Wow.....What did you do for two days?

hey but at least it went all right I am assuming

I'm too tired, lazy, and busy to do that at the moment.

Quote from: CARBON Dudeoxide on August 14, 2008, 10:11:56 PM

My COMPUTER is about the same. Idles at 50 and can get as HIGH as 60.

I have never done It before I know you can over clock the videocard (mines a nvidia geforce8800gt) someone told me gateway made me unable to change my mother board so i think that takes the processor out but what about ram and the hard drive? I dont expect a step by step guide (id like one tho but I just want a link to a guide what makes it the hardest is I do not even know the name or BRAND of my ram or hard drive (I even looked on gateway and couldnt find it) device manager doesnt have it EITHER. any other things that can be overclocked I would appreciate as well. The only thing I found a good amount of info on is cooling. Thank you for your time..Quote from: doc_holliday420 on August 24, 2008, 02:55:10 PM

someone told me gateway made me unable to change my mother board so i think that takes the processor out but what about ram and the hard drive?

I thought it is a COMPUTER Forum? We lose it sometimes. Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on August 07, 2008, 06:35:37 AM

We lose it sometimes.

I have a homemade computer (custom?) the person I BOUGHT it from is gone so I can't ask him for help. The problem is the drives on the front of cpu. floppy and multi-card reader have never WORKED though the light on multi-card reader shows power. the CD and DVD writers work sometimes. othertimes, they show in MyComputer but won't reveal the disk that is in them. Nor will they play what is on them, whether music or data. Everything else on the computer works great. Help please.

thanks,
MakBaby

Below is what I got from the device labels and in MyComputer.


DVD Writer - TSST Corp, Lightscribe SH-S202 driver vers 5.1.2535.0
CD ReWritable - Mitsumi CR-480ATE driver vers 5.1.2535.0
3.5" Floppy – Alps Floppy disk controller driver vers 5.1.2600.0
Card Reader w/USB - Generic
Power Supply - 420W DiabloTek
Hard Drive - SEAGATE Baracuda 7200.10 250gb
Video - EV3A GeForce 8600 GT 256mb
Processor - AMD Athlon Dual 64x2 2.51 Ghz
Motherboard - MSI K9N6SGM-V driver vers 5.1.2600.2180 Serial # 7C10012779 BIOS A7309NMS v1.90 0873107
(I have MSI Live Monitor for updated MSI Motherboard bios)
RAM - 2gb
OS - XP Home Edition w/SP2
Have you attempted to run Windows Update? Often Windows Update alone will resolve many driver issues.

Also, sometimes devices not working can be due to viruses and other malicious programs. What Antivirus do you have installed? Actually, this has been like this since I loaded the drivers for the first TIME. There wasn't any POSSIBILITY of virus' at that time yet. I install all updates for windows when they are avail. But honestly, I don't have anti-virus yet because I don't know what to use.For Antivirus, its best to go with (for free protection) either

Avast www.avast.com
or
AVG www.free.avg.com/

For Spyware protection, if you happen to be a fan of downloading, SUPERAntiSpyware is one I know EvilFantasy and a lot of Malware Removal Specialists on CH recommend http://www.superantispyware.com/ (Dont judge the software by its website!)

hi, i'm running windows xp home sp2, have a 2.8ghz computer with 1.5gig RAM. my computer reboots after a while and after the first time i find my computer keeps doing so! i put the problem down to overheating but in the computer health window in the BIOS screen it only registers at around 40degrees! is it time i bought a new fan to disperse the heat or does the problem lie elsewhere? any help appreciated! thanxI suggest confirming if it's an overheating issue or not.

Do you have an external/housefan you can try?



If so, face it at your computer for about 5 minutes and turn it on.

If not ,leave it turned off for about 20 minutes and then try to turn it on again.If it turns on, DOWNLOAD and install Speed Fan.

When you RUN it, it will tell you the temperatures. POST them here.thanx! installed speed fan results are as follows:
fan 1 2860rpm temp 1 27degrees
fan 2 3590rpm temp 2 34degrees
fan 3 0 temp 3 53degrees
HDO 25degrees
They don't seem too bad. My Laptop is idling at around 50 degrees.

Are you using an external fan or what?i dont have external fan available! my computer will run fine for a while then after a about an hour or two it reboots! i will post temperatires as they change to see if you can help me with my problem! i have had the computer about three years and it has only started doing this now! i have cleaned all heat sinks, airvents and fans but problem still persists after a while! could it be a problem with my processor due to prolonged use?Quote

could it be a problem with my processor due to prolonged use?

Hi, I have an HP Pavillion Media Center PC. The specs are: 3072 RAM - 640 GB Hard Drive _AMD9500 Quad Core Processor. OS is Vista Home Premium SP1. I want to install more memory and really dont know anything about it. I have heard you should install double memory of equal size. In the case of a Quad core processor would that mean 4? Also would installing more RAM improve the speed of my computer? Any recommendations on size and brand to install? Thankyou very much.I don't see the processor spec/speed as determining your RAM quantity choice per se. 3 Gb is pretty useful but certainly it is generally reckoned to match one stick with another but you don't say whether your 3 Gb is one stick or not.

I am imagining you have two RAM stations and so it'd be preferable to have 2 x 2Gb or 2x any other size. Some older machines seem to ''see'' unequal sticks but better to have matched pair.

Kingston is a reputable make and you can find prices etc from places like techforless.com and newegg.com. Up to a point more RAM is invariably better - providing a system is not bottle-necked making access slow ... your machine should be good I'd think.

Don't forget that with Vista - you can utilize a fast USB memory stick as extra RAM ... as long as Vista sees it as fast enough. You might consider adding a 4Gb to a USB port as another OPTION.Thankyou very much Chris!The AMOUNT of RAM, you have is basically all, that can be used by 32-bit system. In theory, it may handle 4GB, but in reality, it can use only little bit over 3GB, so you're perfectly fine.
What are your exact issues?

Chris
Quote

You might consider adding a 4Gb to a USB port as another option.

Here is the gist, i have a computer screen which had a 5cent coin thrown at it and now its crack and has dead pixels running all down the side of it. What i need to know is can you change the POSITION of your screen to keep it out of the way of dead pixels(lots of them)?What do you mean?

If your laptop is still under warranty, you can get the screen replaced for free.
If it isn't under warranty, you can still get the screen replaced.Lol, COSTS a lot to replace the screen i have. Plus its a few old. Like the whole side of it has dead pixels, plus its a pc monitor.Oh a Desktop Monitor?

I am afraid there isn't a way to move the display to the other side of the screen. thats no goodThere no software way to do it, but if it's a deskop monitor then there may be a built in maintenance function in your monitor. Does it have a button/buttons with odd symbols? Have a look to see if you can find a menu, that might have an offset function. Mind you i haven't actually seen a monitor like that in a COUPLE of years.

FBMost desktop monitors should have settings that allow you to adjust the display in a way you would like. You can usually stretch, compress, skew, and move the display. It's more common with CRT monitors, but many LCD's have them as well (mine is less than TWO years old and it has these options). Do you have any buttons on the front or side of your monitor?Face it. That monitor is junk. In future, avoid the company of idiots who would hurl hard objects at monitors.Lol, ive accually been using half a monitor to play GAMES for 8months now, no money to replace, but i will soon

Hey guys,

A friend of mine gave me his Sony Vaio desktop pc to FIX. He tried reinstalling OS on it but it wouldn't work. After fixing a few overheating issues I got to it. The pc hardware overall works, when entering BIOS it recognizes both hard drives (160 GB each) no problem, when I look at the boot menu to see which one goes first it just states "Intel Volume 0" as the only option to choose. When normally starting the pc with Windows XP cd in it I get the setup and all, then F8 to agree with terms and conditions and when I get to the part to select the partitions there are 4 lines saying SOMETHING like, "No hard drive device is inserted" or something like that. When I press Enter I get blue screen of death, something to do with a setupp.sys file.

I thought it was the hardware so I disconnected the wires and plugged them all back in their original positions, still the problem persists.

Specs (from memory):
Intel Pentium D 2.8 GHz
2 SATA HD (160 GB each)
1 GB of RAM DDR2 (2x512MB)
Former Windows XP Media Edition

Thats about it, all suggestions, questions, comments are welcome! THANKS in advance.

- Dima
What type hard drives? SATA? You'll need to install the drivers for these devices during boot...usually by pressing F6. It happens very quickly...and you may need the drivers supplied by the manufacturer. They should be on a floppy.

Do you have these?Thanks Saviour for quick response, yes they are both SATA. I don't believe I have the floppy or any time of CD with that. Is it possible to download them from manufacturer's website and burn them on the cd by any chance? Floppy's are so outdated I don't know who still uses them :/You're probably better off looking for them on your motherboard manufacturer's website.

You can, however, try your computer manufacturer's website, first. Most of the time, they're included on floppies, but they may also be on CDs. Yes...you can have them on CD.


Keep us posted...Alright,

After a day of searching for a CD nothing came up. I checked the MOBO for a sticker with a model on it and nothing there too. How can I check the model of the mobo? I checked manufacturer's website for original files and operating files nothing there that would touch hard drives or system files except audio/video/lan drivers.

What are my options from here on? Should I call tech support?Have you tried with just one HD connected?No, would that do the trick? I'll try that tomorrow.I've tried disconnecting one hard drive and starting the pc that way, again BIOS information tab finds the harddrive but in the boot menu says No Hard Drive installed. Samething when I switched them, leaving on the other one off. On the last try I connected both of them again and went with OS installation to see if by some miracle it'll work but no luck and I got BSOD with this error:

*** STOP: 0x0000008E (0xC0000005, 0x80808106, 0xF73C1754, 0x00000000)

What are my other options other than buying a stardard HD and installing OS there? Thanks.

- DimaHey guys,

Thanks for all your replies and suggestions. I've contacted Sony Style technical support and it appears that the computer is initially equipped with a RECOVERY hard drive. Simply, at the start of computer I started the Recovery Console by pressing F10, entered the menu and chose to recover drive C: it took an hour or so and the windows was back up and running like fresh though. Meaning all the files were gone, which is okey I didn't need them anyways.

Once again thank you for your help and keep up the good job.

- Dima

I'm sure you get a lot of these, but I'm at the end of my rope so please bear with me.

The problem started some months ago, actually. I'm running a Windows XP (32 bit) desktop. At the time of the original problem I was using K8T-Neo V motherboard with a 2 gig athalon 64 (at least, I think that's what it was). I had a gForce 6 series 512mb video card, one stick of 1 gig ram (I can't remember the specs on it), and a 120gig hard drive (I don't know the specs on that one either but I think it's a western digital). I was running a wireless optical mouse, a USB keyboard, and a trendnet USB wireless-ethernet-adapted.

During a year at college I accidentally broke one of my rear USB ports, the little plastic tab snapped. No big deal, I had three more. It wasn't until LATER that this came back to kick my *censored*. I moved to a new apartment and in my haste to set up my computer jammed the USB keyboard into the broken slot while the computer was on. Dumb, I know. The computer shut off instantly. I unplugged the keyboard and turned everything back on. It booted fine and got to Windows, but I couldn't get it to recognize any peripherals; not the keyboard, not the mouse, not my wireless ethernet ADAPTER.

I thought that, perhaps, I could just get away with using a serial cable keyboard, in that case. Wrong. I picked one up and plugged it in, no dice. Now, this may be because the little plastic tab that makes sure you orient the pins properly broke, I'm not sure. However, when I would plug the serial keyboard or the ethernet adapter into the back, their lights would flicker for a moment and then go out. I figured I must have somehow cooked the south bridge. No problem, I just need to to replace the motherboard, everything else is still good. Right?

Wrong. After some searching I managed to locate the exact same motherboard and purchased it. It arrived, I swapped all of the parts into the new board and powered things up. This time my computer failed to post. I tried removing components one by one and adding them back in. I tried booting up with the keyboard, without it, with ram, without it, with the hard drive, without it, with the graphics card, without it, and various permutations of that. Still no luck.

Admitting defeat, I got all new parts (except for the case, which seemed to be functioning fine). Now I'm running a 2.5gig quadcore Phenom 9850 AMD2+, a 750SLI nForce motherboard, an eGeForce 9800 GX2, a Silent Knight cooling fan, four 2gig sticks of OCZ RAM, and a 1000watt Prudent Way Superior Plus power supply. All parts are listed as being SLI compatible.

I plugged everything in and turned on the machine. The LEDs on the motherboard came on, indicating that the four memory slots were occupied, I assume. The fan turned on and the graphics card's internal lights came on. A small digital display on the motherboard says 88. It still won't post. I've tried disconnecting the hard drive and starting again, but it won't post. Clearly the power is flowing. Now, to complicate matters, I haven't quite figured out where to plug in the speaker on my case, so I can't tell if I'm getting a post code.

What puzzles me is that this is the same problem but completely new hardware. The only thing that remains the same is the case. If at all possible I'd like to avoid trying to remove components, especially because I don't have any more thermal grease incase I have to remove the fan. In addition, there is one odd thing, the stick of RAM closest to the fan presses against the fan's housing, although the only part of the RAM that touches appears to be some sort of cooling apparatus. I'd prefer not to remove this stick unless it's the problem, since I had to install it before screwing in the fan's housing to get everything to fit. Any ideas?Nice tale............Tell us more.Did you ever go to the device manager,then go to 'Universal Serial
Bus Controllers'double click to expand.Right click on each USB item
listed choose uninstall,then reboot ?

I'm not sure what else there is to tell. I'm not sure if it's a hardware conflict, or maybe the area of the fan-housing touching the ram is grounding it out.

I never did that in the device manager. Without peripherals, I wasn't able to actually get into Windows to try that. My biggest concern is getting the device to boot.

I'm WORKING on getting a hold of a generic serial keyboard, but I didn't think I needed that to get the machine to post. CONCEIVABLY I just need the processor and RAM, right?Quote from: Lucky13th on August 14, 2008, 12:16:13 AM

I'm working on getting a hold of a generic serial keyboard, but I didn't think I needed that to get the machine to post. Conceivably I just need the processor and RAM, right?

i really hardware expirience,like servicing a computer CPU or get a software that can teach me how to self-service my computer system and be a guru on that.i also need ideas and help on IT and ICT so i can really build my technical skills on computer.This really doesn't go here, but at any rate. If your asking for how to GAIN experience I recommend that you watch Mike Myers, seeing as how you asking to gain some I recommend that you stay away from the tower. You can cause ESD an all sort of problems if your not SURE what to do. I killed my CPU in my one PC an in another plus the motherboard so I recommend till you have an understand not to touch it. Also, mike is corny but its very knowdagle an is used for A+ certified.Yeah, any A+ study material will go a long way in helping you learn hardware. I'd also suggest an english class. They're usually not too expensive. Just CHECK with your local junior college.Read through our website and forum, we've got plenty. Amazon.com computer booksQuote

seeing as how you asking to gain some I recommend that you stay away from the tower.

Quote

seeing as how you asking to gain some I recommend that you stay away from the tower.

I've read this 5 times and still cannot make any sense of it at all...

Quote

seeing as how you asking to gain some I recommend that you stay away from the tower.

I've read this 5 times and still cannot make any sense of it at all...

Thanks

I am having a hard time deciding if I should purchase any of the following cards: Geforce gtx 280, 260 or 9800Gx2. I currently have a geforce 8800gt and want to ask the question, do you think its worth me upgrading? Will i see a much BETTER performance in games, like FPS etc...

I also have some other questions i would like to ask, so I may aswell put them to you here. I currently have a 32" LCD television that i use for my computer screen, it has a native resolution of 1366x768. What I was wondering is, could I increase this resolution beyond the native 1366x768 and if so will this damage the LCD in time. Thanks!http://www.nvidia.com/object/geforce_8800gt.html <-- what you have.
http://www.nvidia.com/object/geforce_9800gx2.html
http://www.nvidia.com/object/geforce_gtx_280.html
http://www.nvidia.com/object/geforce_gtx_260.html

Those are the Graphics Cards you've MENTIONED. (Click on the Specifications tab in the links)

The 9800 GX2 is pretty much a complete step up from your current graphics card.
It really depends on what you are going to do with the Graphics Card and what game's you will be playing.
You also have to take into account your computers specifications.

For example, a better graphics card may not mean better performance if your computer has low RAM and/or a low processor clock.

What kind of system do you have now and what games do you think you will be playing?

As for the LCD Monitor question, I'm not really sure here but I have had a widescreen monitor with a native resolution of 1440x900 running at 1280x720 for almost 2 years now, and it seems fine...Thanks for the reply, specs are listed below. I want to get a DECENT FPS for games like Crysis and MICROSOFT Flight Simulator x.

Motherboard: Ausus crosshair
Ram: 2GB Corsair
CPU: Amd 64 dual core 3.2Ghz
Hard drive: 250GB WD

If possible, more RAM would be nice but that's a pretty good system.

Your current graphics card should work well with Crysis (my friend has a weaker graphics card than yours and he can play Crysis pretty well on lowest settings.

But, I assume you want to play with the BEST graphics the game has to offer.

I RECENTLY bought a Seagate SATA 3.5" Internal Hard drive with 500 G. As I was trying to hook it up in my computer, I noticed I didn't have a Sata card and so I went off and bought one.

I ordered a Silicon Image SATAlink 2-port SATA PCI controller Card from Geeks and put it into a open PCI slot in the back of my computer. After I hooked everything up and installed the drivers and software, The computer couldn't read the card or Hard Drive. I looked at the Hardware list and it says the card wont start. Like two days past and I tried again, this time it started and I began installing the hardrive. once I had it setup, I restarted my computer and found that it stopped reading the hard drive.

The Computer is a Dell Dimension 4100 and its CURRENTLY running on Windows XP.

Seriously, Ive tried everything from REINSTALLING the software and drivers to pulling to pulling out the card and making sure it is intact. What really confused me is when it worked once than started not working.

Please Help me!Return the card for a replacement...you may have gotten a bad one.Ok so I did this, and they sent me a new one. same issue occurs. It continues to tell me it cannot start. By now I dont understand what is wrong, anymore suggestions?

EDIT- Thanks for the help, I figured what was wrong. My stupidity blocked my brain and the card was not pushed totally into the slot. My bad.Good to hear you SOLVED it...stop by anytime !

Hi guys,

I just received a Memory Stick Pen 16GB which I bought on Ebay, and after I plugged it in my USB drive, I copied some files in it just to try it. I then tried to open the pen's folder (drive H:) from My Computer to see my copied files, and all of a sudden, AVG popped up with a Resident Shield Alert saying "THREAT DETECTED - Virus Found VBS/Agent" in the filename "H:\Administrator.vbs". The threat was reported to be "Detected on Open". Then, AVG showed the usual options to either "Remove Threats" or "Ignore". I tried both. At the same time, a Windows Script Host alert also popped up saying "Loading Script H:\Administrator.vbs failed(access is Denied)".

When I tried to "Ignore" the alert from AVG and tried to access the folder again, both AVG and windows KEPT on giving me the 2 same messages continuously which I mentioned above. On the other hand, whenever I "Removed the Threat to the Virus Vault" and tried to open the memory stick pen folder from My Computer, the message "Can not find script file "H:Administrator.vbs" was reported by Windows Script Host. When I then tried to restore my file from AVG Virus Vault, AVG reported continuously that a Threat was Detected.

However, strangely enough, I managed to access and copy the files on my memory stick by right click on the memory stick folder(drive H: ) and select either Open or Explore. The folder was only reported to be access denied or gave me the problems as described above whenever I double clicked the relevant folder from My Computer. Having said this I still feel that the problem is not solved and I'm very concerned whether it truly contains a virus or not.

Also, it's very important to mention, that when I accessed the folder for the first time, there were no files in it. The file "Administrator.vbs" appeared for the frst time when I first removed it in AVG's virus vault and then restored it. It's now physically there and is a file of 34kb size.

Also, I'd like to mention that about 2 weeks ago I bought a memory stick pen from the same seller with same specs which is 100% identical to this one with no problems at all.

What can I do? Is the threat reported by AVG a false/positive? Is it a real virus?
Do you think that if I FORMAT my memory stick pen will solve the problem?

Finally, I'm attaching 2 images showing the different alerts I'm getting all the time which I talked about earlier.

Just to let you know, my system runs on 1.5GB Ram with Windows XP.

Thanks a lot for any kind of help and assistance.

Best REGARDS,

Corolla315


[recovering disk space -- attachment deleted by admin]Yes...your Memory Stick Pen is infected...

This topic should be moved to malware.Hi Saviour,

Thanks for your reply I'm gonna MOVE topic to malware.

ThanksYou're welcome, my friend...

Hi

My desktop PC is displaying a nasty warning now and again. TODAY it appeared at first turn on, "The system has recovered from a SERIOUS error" and a log is created etc etc, please tell MS about it.

How do I find out what the error actually WAS? There is an error code in the report

BCCode : 1000000a BCP1 : 00000016 BCP2 : 0000001C BCP3 : 00000000
BCP4 : 80502392 OSVer : 5_1_2600 SP : 2_0 Product : 256_1

but nothing I can MAKE sense of... now the warning won't go away.


I was having a problem with the system restarting during the screen saver, but it was resolved when I turned screen saver off. Could be related?


How long has this been going on?

What were you doing when you first noticed it?

Did you make any hardware or software changes on your computer prior to this happening?

Can you please give us the specs on your PC?sorry.. specs

Windows XP SP2, AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core 5600+, 2.0GB ram, NVIDIA GEFORCE 8500,

I wasn't doing anything today when it happened... it came up at start-up.

It has happened a few times only in the past week and I havent changed anything hardware RECENTLY at all... or software actually.

In device manager I have just noticed 3 items with no drivers installed (suddenly they have disappeared?)

Other PCI Bridge Device
Sm Bus controller
USB Controller

I've updated drivers for USB although that was working fine, but the other 2 I cannot find drivers for... would this have something to do with it?

Try a system restoreIf the system restore doesn't work...visit your computer manufacturer's website for your drivers...or post your make and model here...and we'll locate them for you.

If he managed to install Windows, I don't think the CMOS Battery will be the problem here....

I actually don't really know what might be wrong.

It COULD be a fault with his HARD Drive.I'm sorry, I'm trying to keep this as updated as possible and things keep changing, so sorry for the post chain.

Anyway...

After restarting a bunch of times it was FINALLY able to start up and windows is working fine...Quote

able to start up and windows is working fine...

I had to do a system restore on a HP computer with XP, after coming back to life the computer claimed "no sound DEVICE" yet the sound card was listed in devices, I have reinstalled the drivers, followed all TROUBLE shooting steps and have just recently installed a brand new sound card to no avail. Any help?If you GO to your Sound Card Manufacturers WEBSITE, look for the appropriate drivers and completely reinstall them.
See how that goes.

I bought this card for my Emachine T1842 running windows XP with 768 of ram and 160GBs worth of a hard drive. I have a problem recording off the Tv is simple I just plug the cable into the card and hit record and it records very nicely looks great. I then was trying to do up my home movies well that wasnt so simple. I used nero software to capture the video onto my hardrive but the video on my computer when I playied it back the video was moving alittle too fast so MUCH that it would kinda BLUR the image on the screen. I finaly desided to use WINTV make a S video channel and record of that picture still too slow. Could my problem be I dont have enough ram and thats why the video is lagging?Are home movies being played on this computer which is also trying to record or are they playing through a DVD or VHS player, in which you have the S-Video output directly into your video capture card which would be the same as is you were recording TV?

If you are using the computer to play one format to CONVERT to another, you could be running into saturation of the video card to where the GPU can not keep up with real time pixel transitions.

Also seen where the CPU can get to 100% and cause similar issues. Usually a CPU overload will also cause a audio and video offset where the CPU is unable to stitch the audio and video data together in manageable time for the FINISHED product.Yeah for the home movies I'm using an S video cable I mean I'm running a Celeron processor would upgrading to a pentium 4 help? Oh also when I do hook the regular TV cable up to the card to tape off the TV I dont have any problems at all.

Subject says it all

I was downloading a game, tried installing it, logged myself off by accident and crashed my PC. So i shut it down, and unplugged the external hdd( it's a 2.5in samsung HM080HC drive). Gave it to a friend to install the game, but he said the drive didn't show up. I thought it might be a problem with Vista, since he has Vista, but I have XP, and my CP doesn't recognise it.

It's not in Device Manager, not in My Computer, not in Add or Remove hardware.

What should i do? if it's GONE how can i format it so i can use it again? If the drive was unplugged prematurely your data is probably gone...
Use the drive manuf. Diagnostics available FREE from their site to prepare it for use again.
Sorry 'bout your Luck.it's not ther What's not where ? ?

i tried what you said, put all the samsung utility software available here:
http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287#samsung
on a floppy, booted it, but "no samsung drive detected"...How is it being reported in Disk Management ? ?

Right click My Computer and select Manage then Disk Management....find the drive ; right click it and select Properties....

If it says RAW your data is gone.
You will need to format the drive to use it again.
My drive doesn't show up there -.-
one of the first things i've tried. Drive 0(C:\) Drive 1(CD-Rom) but no other drivesif it worked with vista its usually backward compatible, but you should look into seeing if it is compatible with xp.Is the drive still under warranty?Actually...it doesn't work in Vista or XP or 2000 for that matter
as for it under warranty... I got it off my Dad(who is in China right now) and have had it for just over 1 year... so i actually don't know
if i was to pay for it to be fixed..how MUCH would it be? (Sterling)Have you tried hooking it up to another machine ? ?
Is it being detected in the BIOS ? ?Yes i have tried hooking it up on to a different machine about 5 now...
My firiend's Vista Machine, Win2000 machine and 3 different XP machines

that's the problem you see... i have a Dell PC, so the BIOS is by Dell(Phoenix actually, but it has Dell plastered all over it, but you get the picture), you can't do any of the advanced STUFF like overclocking and stuff with it, so i can't see if it's detected.

I don't think it's actually detected though, having tried everything mentioned above.
How can i see if it's being detected then? sorry, i'm such a noob LOL. if it's not being detected, whawt can i do....The only thing I can think of is that there might be a problem with the case rather than the drive itself. Would it be possible to open up the case without damaging it? I can't tell by looking at in online. But if you can get it open, you can check the connections or maybe even take the drive out and slave it in your computer. Of course, to slave it, you would have to buy an adapter because that is a laptop drive.

It could also be a cable issue. Perhaps you might want to try a new USB cable.

And does it feel/sound like it's actually getting power when you turn it on?Well, i have taken it apart before, the drive is getting the power cuz i feel it vibrating, as for the connections, it's sitting on top of a board with pins connecting to the IDE interface on the drive. Wel.. i'm getting a new one anyway.... so don't think it's worth slaving it

Well, it's up to you. But if it were me, I'd want to try it out just to find out for sure.

this may well be long winded, my computer has been running fine until 2 days ago, everytime i started it up it would get as far as the windows xp start screen then the computer would restart and would continue to do this until i just switched it off. i have a duel bios mb so tried booting from back up bios but again it would only go as far as the xp start screen then restart. it will not even start in safe mode, it starts to load then freezes. i then tried booting from cd and running the windows repair consul, i have tried to run chkdsk but it freezes at 35%. i then went and BOUGHT another hd and a new copy of the windows xp home, set this up and used my old hd as slave in the hope i could access all my files this way, but to no avail, it shows up as c:/ but when i try to open it i get the message that the drive is inaccessible, is there anyway i am able to GAIN access to this defunked drive? any advice would be appreciated. I use a program from runtime software called Getdataback NTFS that works very well, but costs money.. The last time I mentioned that software someone here suggested an alternative which was free... Hopefully they will respond with that free program to save you some money... I will dig through google to see if I can find the free one. But I know that Getdataback NTFS works great fro bummed drives having used it many times in the past for clunking crashed drives as well as drives like yours.if it saves my hd then i don't mind paying, my kids are devastated as there is stuff on it they want SAVED and am more annoyed with myself for not backing stuff up for the last couple of months, a lesson learned there i think, cheers for that matehttp://www.runtime.org/data-recovery-software.htm

Here is a link to the software I use called GetDataback NTFS.... There is a free download to try against your system. If the trial version detects all your data you can then grab 5 free files with it and PAY $80 if you want to buy it to get all your data.

*** I am hoping that someone will share that free programs link to save you some money.

Download link is here to save you from navigating if you want to try it out.

http://www.runtime.org/gdbnt.zip
Good Luckdude, i can't thank you enough for pointing me to this programme, i downloaded the trail version and ran it, O.M.G i can't BELIEVE this is on sale for just £40 ($80), not only is the easiest programme to use it is well worth more than what they sell it for, like i say, i can't thank you enough, cheers mate, and if we ever meet... the drinks are on me,

i recently just got a sound card, tried to install it, and it didnt work. i took the card out, and it was still shutting down randomly. i tried a different pci slot, but its the same results. i was told that it might be my ram, so i used 1 stick at a time, then both together, but same results.

what i know happend is that i forgot to disable/uninstall my onboard sound the first time i tried to put my card in. i then disabled it, and tried my card again but just did the same thing. i can get to my desktop but after a few SECONDS it just shuts down, i can't even get into safe mode, let a lone have ENOUGH time to do a SYSTEM restore before it shuts down.

specs:

intel c2d e6750
asus p5k-vm
8800gt evga
2 gb ballistix ram
x fi xtreme gamer card (not installed right now)
650w psu
xp pro sp3

plz help Sorry if this is a stupid question but you didn't mention it.
Did you try putting the old card back in and trying it?

Anything else before the problem? (downloads, installs)Did your new card come with a CD?
You may just need to run it.Quote from: JJ 3000 on August 26, 2008, 03:26:56 AM

Did your new card come with a CD?
You may just need to run it.

Hey everyone, I just bought a new LG R700 Laptop and I have TWO problems. First, for those of you who know LG SOFTWARE a bit, my LG intelligent update PROGRAM is being KINDA dumb (haha) it keeps closing and saying "LG intelligent update has shut down" Anyone else having this problem? Second, My computer has 4 gigs of ram, but when I open my laptop infos, it says I only have 3... Is that normal?


Thanks in advance !
not entirely shure about your software problem as i like hardware but for your ram you are must be using a 32bit operating system and you need a 64bit to make it all show up oh okai so i got 1 useless gig?i herd that programs can USE the extra gig the operating system just cant see it anyone wanna confirm that?

I know you guys already heard about Hyper-Threading and Core 2 Duo processors.

Which do you think is the faster? Would it be based on the FSB, clock speed, FREQUENCIES?you mean a single core hyperthreading like a p4 or something and a core 2 duo? the core 2 would be better because it has 2 physical proccessing cores where the hyperthreading only has one http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyper-threading#DetailsAlso, the newer the peocessor, the better its going to PROCESS data. The shear fact that the CoreDuo would be newer than a hyper-threaded PIIII says a lot about how it physically processes data.

Thanks guys. I thought I might also mention:
If you want to hyper-thread, your MOTHERBOARD (and I think CPU as WELL) must be CAPABLE of it. If you dont have a hyper-threading option in your BIOS, then its not possible.

I've decided to upgrade my PC starting with my PSU!

Does anyone know of any sites i can browse\buy from (i only know ebay) so i can. at least, shop around.

Any SUGGESTION will be much apprieciated. Cheers

RDgggIf you're in the US, you can try www.newegg.comAlso - check out www.techforless.com


Just to add - don't buy too cheap - it can be a false investment and, aim generous on power rating.I'm not sure if they have PSU's, but Amazon has a lot of PC equipment/peripherals...Thanks for the feedback

Sorry Dudeoxide, i'm in U.K

Cheers everyone

Anymore suggestions welcomeQuote from: reddevilggg on August 23, 2008, 03:39:36 AM

Sorry Dudeoxide, i'm in U.K