Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

I know there both not the best, but i was shopping around looking for some cheap stuff today (almost black friday) and i saw there was a 4650 for 80 BUCKS the 4850 i was plannin on gettin is 150, so would it be a bad idea to go to the 4650? or just stay with 4850#BUMP

need an answer...DEPENDS on what you want to be doing on your computer. 4850 better for PLAYING games but if you're not in that route and just only want to game casually and watch more VIDEO or do more INTERNET surfing or something, the $60 4650 isn't bad at all.Well, its not like i wana run crysis.... best grafix game im going to play is probly LastChaose

When I turned on my computer this morning it never went through the set up, it just started clicking. Not your usual HD clicks and flutters but a constant, repetitive CLICK. Is that the HD GOING bad?

If so, how do I recover the data (cheaply)?

My OS is WINDOWS XP and there are two partitions, C & D. All my stuff is on C, the recovery stuff is on D.

Thanks for any help!Can you CONFIRM the clicking is coming from the Hard Drive?

If so, back up your data immediately, starting with the most important data first.Commonly known as the "click of Death"...CARBON is correct.
You don't have much time to save that data.
The more you use that drive the further you get from retrieving your data.

Slave Drive Tutorial.

I KNOW that two video cards NEED to have the same processor and memory in order to run SLi (or the memorry will be downgraded to whichever card has less). However, I was wondering if a video card will work with the same model vido card but overclocked from the MANUFACTURER?

In my specific case, will an EVGA 7900GS work with an EVGA 7900GS KO?
ALONG similar LINES - Regular 7900GS with BFG 7900GS OC?The card with the faster speeds will clock down to match the slower one.
Hope this helps.

I bought a 1 TB Fukato external HDD that I couldn't get to work on my computer.
It showed an icon on the desktop, but in the file manager right clicking it says "loading" forever and ever...
I Googled the product and saw only bad reviews so exchanged it at the store for a 500 GB Trekstor.
The same happens here.

I must add that I have messed around a bit with chmod and chown to try and get permissions (are all set to root) for me, but don't remember exactly what I did

I'm not too FAMILIAR yet with Linux, so I hope someone can explain a simple SOLUTION, thanks
(using Sabayon Linux, based on Gentoo)

EDIT: solved SIMPLY by login as root... it did take TWO of us to figure that out after 4 hours

I put my FLASH drive in my computer and it doesnt recognize it, iver tryed blowing into it to clean out the DUST, tryed multiple computers, rebooting computers, EVERYTHING. but when i put my FLASHDRIVE in it doesnt show up, i cant OPEN it.... am i screwed?Does it work in other computers?
Do other flash drives work with your computer?When you plug it in, does the light on the flash drive light up or ANYTHING?

my known good, INTERNAL 160 gb sata drive is not seen by my desktop.It will "spin up" if i disconect the SERIAL line and leave power line on. If i hook up both lines it does not spin. I have already checked to see if my serial PORTS are enabled in bios. hard drive is not displayed in device mananger.Does BIOS see the drive?Which SATA port are you connected to on the MBoard ? ?
Have you installed the SATA/RAID drivers from the MBoard DRIVER CD ? ?It could be the SATA cable. Try another ONE first. If it is not the cable, try plugging it into the other port. Does BIOS detect it now?Quote from: earthdog on November 27, 2008, 07:05:25 PM

No, my sata drive is not seen in bios,I have tryed both ports. How do I get motherboard sata/raid driver/disck?

I RECENTLY had another motherboard (taken from a working computer) installed on my computer. I was not getting any sound when I got it back. I installed a new sound card but it plays back sounds very slow and distorted. I have checked all sound settings, reinstalled drivers, updated drivers, spoken with the manufacturer...all to no AVAIL. I have searched all over this forum and other places on the internet and haven't found an answer.

My operating SYSTEM is Windows XP with service pack 3. The sound card I installed is an Xtreme XS71 made by Diamond.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Was motherboard professionally installed?
Were motherboard drivers installed?Yes, to both questions.Can the motherboard cause the sound to play slow EVEN though I've installed a new sound card?Do you have any warranty on motherboard installation?
Why did you accept the job, since sound was not working?No, there is no warranty, because I bought it on Ebay. The person who worked on it is a professional, who is also a friend, and he lives in another state. He did the job for free. I didn't know about the sound problem until my husband picked it up and brought it home. Everything else works great.

You didn't answer my question. What in the motherboard can cause a problem like this? Is it something I can fix or a setting I can change?

Thank you.Did the sound work on this motherboard in the machine it was taken from?

Alan <>< Quote

You didn't answer my question. What in the motherboard can cause a problem like this? Is it something I can fix or a setting I can change?

Hi GUYS, I have a Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 750 gig ST3750640AS hard drive which was inside a Seagate freeagent external hard drive enclosure. The hard drive suddenly stopped working and I have removed this drive from the enclosure so it is now a stand ALONE SATA HDD. Using a separate data recovery cable and power supply designed for this drive I have tried to power the drive up to try and make further use of the drive but the PCB on the back of the drive started to smoke ! Needless to say the drive is now seriously in danger of being binned but I would still like to grab the data off of the drive. Does anyone know how and where I can get a replacement PCB for the drive please? Is this a practical route to take? How easy is it to replace? Or any other suggestions other than using expensive data recovery processes to try and read the data? Thanks in advance for any advice... cheers Steve Although i detest eBay i have found replacement PCB's there before...Hi , thanks for the Ebay suggestion but what do I look for past wise, I cant find what I need and im not sure how to go about fitting the new part if I can find the part that is.....You need to find one which serial/batch # is as CLOSE as possible to the drive you are trying to repair.
This can be tedious.

The left half of the screen is covered in a fine pink mesh! The right half is perfect! Mesh side flickers slightly. Screen capture does not pick up the display error.
Cant sort it out
Windows XP Service Pack 3
Radeon 9800 Pro Video card appears good. Gone through the My Computer, System Properties, hardware, Trouble shooting tool.
Downloaded manufactures update tool. ATI Catalyst Control Center. provides an astonishing amount of data that I can't UNDERSTAND. Doesn't tell me if anything is wrong so i assume the video card is good.
Fiddling so far which failed;
Switch monitors. Disable video card, used windows TOOLS to check the drivers,
checked for bent pins.
Anyone got any Ideas?
Electromagnetic interfence can cause this. Do you have any eletronics, like speakers, close to the monitor? Try moving them away.

If you have tried other monitors then the next logical step would be to swap out the vid card with a known good one.Thanks JJ
Tried the video card swap but it didn't work.
There isn't anything causing the interference locally. The computer has been in the same location for 2 years with out problems. Something has gone wacky somewhere. I just hope it's not on the mother board.
If you swapped vid cards and it did the same thing it's sounding like it's the monitor...
To confirm this connect it to another machine and boot up.Thanks Patio, I tried conneting up a different flat screen. The result was exactly the same. OK.
This means it's the card.
The first thing we can do is try and rescue the existing one since this is the most cost effective:
Remove a side panel from the case.
Get a can of compressed air from any PC shop.
Carefully blow out any dust/debris from all heatsinks/fans and the MBoard in general.
Use a QTip to hold the fan blades in place as spinning them up with air can damage them.
When you are finished with the cleanout remove the vid card and re-seat it making sure it is in firmly. Don't forget the hold down screw as it acts as the ground.
Leave the side panel off for now as you want to check to see all fans are operating properly.

As always when WORKING inside the case take anti-static precautions and remove all power sources.
When you are done with this power up and use a penlite to make sure all fans are operating.

If everything looks good fan wise but the condition still exists then we're going to see if it's software related.
In Device Manager find the card right click it and select uninstall.
Locate your Driver CD for the card (best for testing as they are the originals)
Remove the ATI control center in Add/Remove Programs.
Re-boot and follow the instructions in the New Hardware window for re-installing the drivers.

Power down and power back up and let's see what the results are.
All these steps should be followed whether you see immediate good results or not.

Good Luck...we're pullin for ya.Patio....you da man! thanks for the help. Is was the graphics card. Coumputer was FILTHY. Couldn't save the card but the computer got a nice bubble bath.
Working fine.
Good News ! !...
Just for grins i've cleaned up vid cards before and replaced the fans and a few have been rescued that WAY...use a QTip and rubbing alcohol on the contacts letting it dry thoroughly and bring the card to the PC store to match up the fan...
Good to have for a spare in a pinch...

Welcome to CH and stop by anytime !Hi there i am experiencing the same problem with my computer screen the left side is a completly differet colour and the right side is fine. Is this a problem with the graphics card?Looks like it.

Try Patio's advice here. If the problem persists, start a new topic.

Quote from: patio on May 08, 2009, 07:52:09 PM

DLoad;install and try CDBurnerXPro and see what happens...
If it burns good then Nero is the culprit...
If it does the same THING switch the brand of blank media.

That's really good advice.

If you can't remap a Windows key on one keyboard, what makes you think you can do it on another?

I'm USING Dell Inspiron laptop with window vista home premium. My problem is after the dell loading page there's an information page from dell notified that 'The device of the system modular bay cannot be identified. It may not be completely inserted or may have some other problem. The step given to solve the problem is enter the device into the modular bay properly to the bay. then switch off the power and on to let the computer re-identified the modular. or else press Esc to ignore it. But after i reset my computer the error page still appear. I did enter the dvd-room into the bay properly. If i ignore the error then my dvd-rom would be malfunction. the room cannot be eject out even.
This problem occur a few TIME bfore, but it sometimes okay automatically.

What should i do?? Is my dvd-room spoilt??Sounds like the DVD drive is shot.
How old is it ? ?
UNFORTUNATELY to test this is difficult because you need the same model # to swap in to a laptop for testing.
Are there any Dell service centers in your area ? ?I think the dvd drive still okay. Bcuz in the dell loading page the room still can be eject out and i place in cd it sounds it still can spin.

The dell service center is not really convenient for my area. I wish to save the payment even. Does the DVD drive work ? ?
It still can eject in the dell loading page after i switch on power (bfore the error page come out). If i ignore the error the dvd drive won't work(cannot eject out even) and the LED will lighted even THOUGH it is not running.Opening and closing does not mean the drive is working...
Does the drive work ? ?If the dvd drive is opening and closing all that means is it is getting power that is all, the drive was failing that is exactly how they act like before they do, I would suggest you contact dell if you're still under warranty.My laptop has out of warranty.

For now my DVD drive has out of function... but it does like tat bfore. And recover automatically for twice. (I not really sure wat i done to it)

I got another question. I hav juz BOUGHT my laptop for 1 and half year. I nvr use it wif the cooler pad underneath it. (My room is not under air-conditioning) Now my battery has spoilt and DVD drive either....

Izit necessary to use a cooler pad to elongate the laptop life???My DVD drive now is back to normal again.... lol
But i think the problem still exist.
Anyway thanks much

It's kind of like dvd vs blueray. 9500GT is at the dvd level while the GTX's are at the blueray level! I DONT think gtxs are blueray. Mabye hd dvdQuote from: computeruler on MAY 15, 2009, 10:42:59 PM

I dont think gtxs are blueray. Mabye hd dvd

the 4890 or new 5xxx series?

the 4870 does too. You would be good with a GOOD 550w. I would get at least 650 though

I'm still INTERESTED in upgrading my cpu from 450MHz to 733MHz and I am told that if the cpu speed is not in bios then remove computer battery - replace it - and cpu speed will be in bios and I can change it. Is this correct?You want to overclock? Dells have locked BIOS. Mabye theres a way around itIf the motherboard supports a CPU, you can install it. There is no switch in the BIOS you need to change.

@CR He never said anything about overclocking...WELL the part about the cpu speed in the bios sounded like overclocking to meTrue. If by "upgrade" he means to just change the multipler that would be stupid even if the motherboard allowed it. a 450Mhz CPU being overclocked to a 733? That's over 150% of it's factory speed...My friend overclocked that high before.... as high as it would go. It was a huge overclock and it did actually boot. Not SAYING it was stable thoughI'd say It would be a waste of time to go that high. My K6-2, for example, could barely keep cool at it's factory speed, so I never could bring myself to move that jumper from x3.5 to x4.0...I don't want to overclock. I have purchased a 733MHz CPU. I will take it that if the motherboard supports it I can install the faster CPU. Ohh go AHEAD then install itwhaaaaaaaa!

If you dont see a difference from a single core to a dual core, I would say just to not upgrade. You will see less framerates in games and everything that only uses 1 or 2 threads will not perform as good. Basically, if you want to upgrade, get a faster dual core.

If we're talking personal experiences, I noticed a huge difference from a single core to dual, and when I used a friend's quad I felt the same difference.
App startup and boot time is mainly about the speed of your storage and your optimisations - a bloated OS with lots of startup items with a slow HDD will not start as fast as a slimmed down OS with a blazing fast RAID array or an SSD, that's common sense.
Dual core CPUs, as with any CPU upgrade, will only help you if the bottleneck in performance is your CPU.

I deno what is wrong. There are a few piles of tiny flashing dots on the upper portion of my screen. They are very small and light but ALSO very annoying. The only time they don't show is when I'm playing a video game... isn't that kind of weird?

Please HELP!

ThanksI apologize but I know this may be fairly LATE. Just WANTED to know if you still had this PROBLEM?

Hello!
I've been TRYING to GET my gateway MT3705 open I took out all the SCREWS I could find but it still won't open. It has a motherboard issue so I need to have it tested. I have LOOKED everywhere on the internet and can't find out where I may have missed screws. Can anyone help me please? I'm to the point of forcing the stupid thing open with a screwdriver or worse!
Thanks
DennisDennis .....

Go to Gateway support, enter serial number and you should get the information you need.

http://support.gateway.com/support/default.aspx

http://support.gateway.com/s//Mobile/2007/Apache/1014142Rnv.shtmlThey mostly show me how to open the bays but not how to take it apart enough to get at the motherboard but thanks!Another WEBSITE...

http://repair4laptop.org/disassembly_gateway.htmlThank you for your help!

Recently my computer stopped working and couldnt reformat the hard drive.

So now i have a new hard drive and have connected it up to master, cables in correct place.

When i start up my pc it says: "Searching for boot record from IDE-0...OK"

"Non-System DISK or disk error
Replace and press any key when ready"

There are no disks in any of the 2 cd drives or floppy
Im guessing the hard drive isnt formated so it cant boot from that
When i try to boot from the official windows xp home cd is just says the boot record is not found.

In the BIOS menu it see's my hdd and both CD drives and floppy.

I dont know how i can GET it to boot so i can install windows
I was thinking of downloading FDisk from another computer and PUTTING it on a floppy but when i try to format the floppys it always fails, im guessing the floppys are duff.

Any help would be appriciated as ive been tryin to fix it for a WEEK now You are unable to Boot CD for re-install of Windows XP
Here things to check:
1. Get into the BIOS.
2. See if BIOS can identify broth the Hard Drive and the CD-Drive.
3. Set Boot order to floppy, CD-Drive then Hard Drive.

Restart the computer. Watch for the message;
Strike any key to start CD...

Does any of this help?
If you can't boot from the windows CD the CD could be bad too. Try another one if you have, or borrow from someone. You could also try ULTIMATE boot CD, usually that can fix all sorts of problems.

I have installed at Western Digital 320GB HD, but it does not show up in My Computer, and I am not able to ACCESS it. It is installed using an ATA cable, whereas the HD that IS working is an 82GB that I actually installed to be the slave to the WD 320GB, but somehow became the master and the only HD working (the 82GB is installed using an IDE cable, and is listed as "Disk 1").

When I go to the "disk management" (CONTROL panel, admin tools, computer management), I do see the WD 320GB listed as Disk 0 (it's listed "298 GB, unallocated"). I hear it TURN on and run when I click on the "populate" button in the properties tab.

How can I get the WD HD to show up and work as the master and the 82GB as the slave? How do I transfer/mirror the data that is already on the 82GB to the WD?

Thank you for your time and help.

Computer SPECS:
HP Pavilion running Windows XP Media Center Edition 2005
The Western Digital Data Lifeguard tools include a tool for "cloning" your old drive to the new one...
They are Free on their site or they would be on the CD that shipped with the drive.

It's probably not showing up in Windows since it's not formatted yet...
If it's showing in Disk Management then the drive is working.That was just too easy. Thank you for the help. I thought that the HD formatted automatically after INSTALLATION.

BTW, on the properties tab, it shows that 78MBs is already used and I have not put anything on it! Do you know why that is? Also, it shows that the capacity is 298GB, instead of the 320GB - what happens to that 22GB?

One last question - should I partition the HD or just have it as a 'simple volume'?

Thank you again for your help and advice.malibu,re drive capacity--advertised and reality--probably more than you want to know--http://forum.pcmech.com/showthread.php?t=118330 truenorth

Chart Courtesy of Western Digital

I replaced the factory supplied cooling sink and fan on the Q8200 I bought with a ZALMAN CNPS9700 cooler. Will the factory socket 775 cooler fit my Pentium 4 CPU in my back-up PC?
I found this http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/249 that says P4's were made for 423, 478 and 775 socket.
How do I find out which socket I have on my P4 CPU (without disassembly) and will the Q8200 cooler WORK on my P4?
Does it have to be a socket 775 P4 or will the Q8200 cooler work on a 423 or 478 socket P4?
TIA,
Mike
Edit= The cooler Intel part# is: e30307do you know what model cpu it is? Or if its not self built the model and manufacturer? I don't know what model. Where do I find that. I looked in device manager but it only gives the driver details for the P4.
It won't work anyway. I took the cover off and compared the cooler that's in there now. It's got a rectangular anchor pin configuration and it's a 478 socket = no workie.
Thanks anywayHow about :
ACPI\GenuineIntel X86 FAMILY 15 Model 4?
That's from device manager Hardware lds

EDIT= PC is DEL deminsion 3000 P4 2.8 GHz in my specs.I am going to say that its a 478 and it will not work. Download cpu-z and look for the socket type. If you cant find it give me a screen shot
http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.phpI forgot about CPU-Z. It's a Prescott, Model 4, Socket 478 mPGA. It won't work. Oh well. Thanks anyway.

I had been on line for several hours and all of a sudden the mouse would only move up and down in the exact middle of my screen. I have unplugged, replugged, uninstalled, reinstalled, etc. I didn't have another computer or another mouse to try but will borrow a mouse this afternoon to see if that is the issue. In the back of my mind - I may have held down keys and mouse buttons at the same time...could a multiple key stroke have caused this? It isn't erratic movement - just vertical.Last time I SAW this it was a ball mouse that has hair wrapped AROUND the 1 of the encoder wheels inside allowing only for left to right motion with no up and down. I had X but no Y axis control and you NEED both to move to position instead of linear verticle or horizontal only.

Swapping mouse should fix.

This is likely not malware etc like the DRUNKEN mouse etc and just a bad mouse. Only if you see a cropping box display with mouse have I ever seen a keyboard mouse combination error.

Or you could just clean it out if its a ball mouse. If its not try a new oneI took a closer look at the mouse ball - and sure enough found a hair wrapped around the wheel inside - it works perfect now! THANK YOU!
Nice to know it wasn't the metal plate in my HEAD...lol....

Hi a friend DIRECTED me here but anyway

a friend built a pc up for me and basically it has 2gb of ram but he had to open a port in the bios or something for the SECOND gb of ram to work otherwise the pc would show no image/black screen. UNFORTUNATELY i dont know what he did.

Anyway my pc power supply BROKE and i got a new one but now i plug both the ram in and hav ethe same problem as he did.
so i think i need open the ram port again?
any help is thanked!Hmmmmmm, Here's how I interpret this..

I have the impression that originally there was only 1 Gigabyte of RAM INSTALLED, then 1 Gigabyte of RAM was added, then the system became unstable......and somewhere along the lines the CMOS/BIOS settings were adjsuted for reasons that are unclear at this point.

Can you verify that the added RAM, is the same type and speed as the original?

I am having a Windows XP SP3 loaded laptop that has a Hitachi 80 GB SATA HDD formatted with NTFS. One of the partition of 25GB in size has some bad sectors. When I try to fix the error, I hear rattling sound and the system hangs. This problem also happens occasionally when I try to copy or move some files, especially large ones, to the partition. How do identify/locate the bad sectors? Is it possible to lock/delete the bad sectors so that they are inaccessible to windows. Any solutions to the problem? Please do not suggest buying a new HARD disk.Why should we not suggest a new drive ? ?
If it's failing...it's failing.
There are very few repairs that can be done...especially if it's making audible noises.
Backup your data and do what we're not allowed to suggest...You miight be able to find utilities on the Internet which will allow you to lock out those bad sectors. That's as far as I will go with that.

That disk is on borrowed time. It might last a day, a week, or a year. While the same may be stated for any drive, the chances are against you if it's giving you problems.

I once had a 2GB drive that crashed. It STARTED back up, and reported to BIOS and Windows that it was a 1GB drive. It LASTED for another year, but I only kept games and things which I could afford to lose at any moment on the drive. When it finally quit for good, there was no warning.

Make sure you have important INFORMATION backed up.
Quote

which will allow you to lock out those bad sectors

salu voila j'ai ce famu ecrant bleu
descreption ; apres le demarage je trouve ecrit:
tecncal information
xxx stop: 0x000000e,(0x87555005,0x00000002,0x83c1e6a8,0x83c1 e6b0
xxxnids.sys-address 87555005base at 8747f000,date stamp 479190e7
slvp aide urguent
et merci d'avance a tous mombre qui aide a resoudre mon probleme
windows vista edition familiale premerium
processeur intel r pentium r dual cpu e2180 hp compaq
systeme d'exploitation 32 bitssalu
voila I have this blue ecrant FAMU
descreption; after they START I wrote:
tecncal information
xxx stop: 0x000000EA, (0x87555005, 0x00000002, 0x83c1e6a8, 0x83c1 e6b0
xxxnids.sys-address 87555005base at 8747f000, 479190e7 date stamp
slvp aid urguent
and thank you in advance all Mömbris that helps solve my problem
Windows Vista Home premerium
Intel r pentium r dual cpu e2180 hp compaq
32-bit operating system


******************************************************

Salut,

Essayez ce site pour trouver la cause de votre arrêt erreurs ..

STOP Code Complete List ...

http://pcsupport.about.com/od/findbyerrormessage/tp/stop_error_list.htmEnglish, please.slvp = s'il vous plait? (please?)Sorry Broni... my code stop not existe Restate your problem in English in order to receive some more help.Quote from: Broni on June 09, 2009, 11:42:55 AM

English, please.

This is urgent.

Hi I wanted to use my CRT TV as a second monitor and connected it to my Computer using an 'S' connector.

I have an NVIDIA 5500 Card with TV Out. so I ran the Cable from this to my TV.

I then Selected Clone mode to get the same picture on my Monitor and my TV the problem is while my Monitor works fine and displays in color my TV only displays in Black and White.

So how do I get my TV to display in Color when connected to my Computer.

Note: The TV works fine for normal TV reception its just that it won't display in Color when using it as an additional Monitor.You will alway struggle with a cathode screen. You need to really have a T.V that has a VGA port. Which generally means spending money. My tv is a Sony Bravia with a VGA port and it works perfect but I had to spend the money to get it. Hi Mulreay

Now that is a very interesting answer, no one has picked up on that not even on 'You Tube' where I got the idea from.

Coincidently my Monitor an 8 year old CRT gave up the ghost to-day, the colors were running all over the place and I had to keep bashing it with my hand in ORDER to get it to work as I think the colors guns were shot away.

Got one from a Charity shop just to tide me over but I really want a bigger and better one this time as the price of monitors has gone down so much.

Even so this brings me to an interesting dilemma.

I was planning to spend £200 on a new 21 inc monitor but would the money be better spent on a 42inch HD Plasma or LCD at £450.

Would the HD Plasma have either enough or more than enough resolution to compare with a Standard Monitor?

I would love to work on a 42inch Screen and also use it as my TV as well.

If practical then the extra £250 would be well WORTH it to me, as I really COULD do with a new TV as well.

Should I go for Plasma or LCD? and what are the chances of messing it up by holding a still image on it for Photo manipulation etc?

In any event Thank you for a brilliant answer to my question.

LCD always. Plasma has screen burn problems. Plasma is ok to watch a film but if you use it for a computer you wil get screen burn. You can't get that with LCD. If you can afford it you want a 1080p LCD. NOT 1080i. Make sure it has HD connectors for things like PS3 and VGI port for PC.Hi Mulreay

LCD it is then but what does the 1080i and 1080p mean? don't as yet understand what that is about.1080p is the shorthand name for a category of HDTV video modes. The number "1080" represents 1,080 lines of vertical resolution (1080 horizontal scan lines),[1] while the letter p stands for progressive scan (meaning the image is not interlaced). 1080p can be referred to as full HD or full high definition to differentiate it from other HDTV video modes.[2] The term usually assumes a widescreen aspect ratio of 16:9, implying a horizontal resolution of 1920 pixels. This creates a frame resolution of 1920×1080, or 2,073,600 pixels in total. The frame rate in hertz can be either implied by the context or specified after the letter p (or i), such as 1080p30, meaning 30 Hz.[3]

1080p is sometimes referred to in marketing materials as "Complete High-Definition". However, 2K/4K digital cinema technology is commercially available, and ultra-high definition video is in the research phase.

In addition to the meaning of 1080p as a display resolution, 1080p is also used to describe video equipment capabilities. Use of 1080p and the closely related 1080i labels in consumer products may refer to a range of capabilities. For example, video equipment that upscales to 1080p takes lower resolution material and reformats it for a higher resolution display. The image that results is different from the display of original 1080p source material on a native 1080p capable-display. Similarly, equipment capable of displaying both 720P and 1080i may in fact not have the capability to display 1080p or 1080i material at full resolution. It is common for this material to be downscaled to the native capability of the equipment. The term "native 1080p-capable" is sometimes used to refer to equipment capable of rendering 1080p fully.

As for a standard TV set, in the USA the lines per frame is set at 526 horizontal lines in a complete frame. Each frame has two FIELDS. The frame was 30 frames per second until Color TV dropped it down just a bit.

So then that would mean 526 vertical elements, and that would imply aout 700 horizontal elements. But that is not really the case.

The point here is that the standard TV resolutions is not so good!

Hi Mulreay

Thanks a million you saved me from making a very expensive mistake, as I went to a well known 'Superstore' with not so 'Super Assistants' who were basically trying to 'Blag it' with their not so 'Super Knowledge'

But as I was armed with the info thanks to your mega response, for once in my life I felt like I knew what I was talking about and think I've found what I am looking for.

The Samsung Chrystal that I saw had the most amazing picture that I have ever seen in all my life and so I am going to buy one this weekend.

Thanks for your help

Which I very much appreciated.

No problem at all mate glad to help

Okay so I have a AdsTec Video Xpress Video to usb Device, What is does is it Allows you to plug your AV devices into a adapter that PLUGS into your pc via usb, for example Old 8MM Camcorder -> Adapter -> PC.

I was able to install the drivers and the SOFTWARE but when i try to run it I get a blue screen, I am using a Windows Vista 64bit Home Pri. SO I tried to run the Program (muvee autoproducer 5 NOTE I CANNOT UPDATE BECAUSE THIS PROGRAM IS ONLY FOR THE USB DEVICE) in xp simulation mode.. fail.. What i want to know is if there is a new device that works with vista 64bit or is there a way to get this working!

the info is:

USB Video Device: ADS TEch Video Xpress, Parth Number: USBAV-192
Look here: http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/ca/en/ho/WF06b/12454-12454-3329740-64546-64546-3793920-3813354.html for computer specs.
Look here: http://www.adstech.com/products/USBAV-191-EF/intro/USBAV_191_intro.asp?pid=USBAV-192-EF for device info

Thanks idspenceI'd contact ADS and see if they have WRITTEN 64bit drivers for it.adstech WENT out of bissneussQuote from: idspence on June 11, 2009, 07:01:18 PM

adstech went out of bissneuss

(google it!)

I have a Dell Dimension 4700, running Windows XP service pack 3 and recently I had Trojans in the system...it took me a while, but my system seems to be pretty much back to normal, I had to turn off system restore and turn it back on to get rid of one Trojan, so I can't turn to it for help. Anyway, I recently noticed that when I plug in my USB 2.0 Flash drive or my iPod nano it won't show up in my COMPUTER. The remove hardware icon appears and I can safely remove it, but I can't access the devices. When I check the remove hardware icon, it tells me the device is at location 0, which I can't figure out. I looked under disk management and it shows my D drive, the CD drive, E drive, which is CD-RW and F drive, DVD drive...which is confusing. I never paid attention, but I only have two slots that open on the PC...I don't even actually remembering having a DVD drive, but then I never tried to use it. It says no media on it anyway. I can't change the path of the USB Device since it won't show up under disk management. My mouse and keyboard are USB, and they get picked up, and when I check hardware under C drive, I get this for the following drives:

WDC WD800JD-75MSA3 Location 0 (0) -- I actually don't know what this is...hard drive?
USB 2.0 SD/MMC Reader USB Device Location 0
HL-DT-ST DVD ROM GDR8163B Location 0 (0)
SAMSUNG CD-R/RW SW-2525 Location 1 (1)
PM5302J RSW601D SCSI CdRom Device Location Bus Number 0, Target ID 0, Lun 0

Everything is said to be working properly...

I went into device manager and uninstalled the generic volume under system volume, then went to USB controllers and tried to uninstall everything...I got all root hubs uninstalled except one (when I tried it the first time, it stopped my mouse and keyboard from functioning) and uninstalled all of the Intel(R) 82801 FB/FBM USB Universal Host Controllers...and when I hit the last one, it detected new hardware and reinstalled it all...then I rebooted my computer twice, it detected the hardware and said it was ready for use, but no changes for the USB Drive. I'm wondering if I did this wrong, maybe, or it just didn't work.

I believe I still have my old XP disc, so if it comes down to it...could I reinstall Windows without losing everything? I have a lot of personal things on this computer and without my USB drive, I'm not sure how to store them...and after my computer crashed two years ago I had to install Windows about three times, it was really troublesome for me and my activation key never worked (in use or something I think) so I had to call for a new one every time. I'd reinstall completely if I had to, but I really want to be ABLE to fix it without doing that, I mean, the computer DOES recognize an external device, it's just being mean about it...

I searched the site and couldn't find anything to help me on this, so I'm really sorry if this was addressed somewhere...I couldn't find it. If anyone can help me, I would be eternally grateful...You are probably still infected...
Visit our Virus and Spyware section and follow the instructions at the top of the page for posting your logs....
BTW
Your drives as listed are:
Hard Drive
Card Reader
DVD burner
CD Burner
SCSI CDROM.I RAN SuperAntiSpyware and removed 4 more Trojans...but my computer is still acting weird, can't get the USB drive to show up and in Task Manager I have about 3 or 4 instances of rundll32.exe running...and I know I shouldn't...here's my HijackThis logfile...

[attachment deleted by admin]Maybe you should install the drivers again... I recently had problems with the same model computer with flash drives but I found the drivers in some folder called Windows/INF I think, when that add new hardware wizard thing came up.There is no single tool that will remove serious infections...especially Trojan variants,

Clik Here and follow the instructions...I used the CA Security Suite Virus Scanner and AntiSpyware, SUPER Anti Spyware, check disk and UnHackMe and after it removed several things (they just showed up today, even after I had scanned several times...) I restarted my computer and my USB drive was showing up in My Computer again! It still says location 0, but it's working. Though I still have rundll32.exe running in my Task Manager, and when I checked my System Configuration for statup programs, there were a few things I wasn't sure about. Can you tell me about Rundll32 p17? Is it a needed at start up or is it something suspicious...I also had a blank start up program (no name, just a location) and another that says chkdsk and has the location C:\WINDOWS\system32\rundll32.exe and after that it has another location pointing to My Documents...Is it an infection?If you refuse to click the link above and follow the instructions i can't offer any other advice.You don't need to be rude to me, I'm not refusing to click it. I already did days ago and posted my log but you didn't tell me anything. I was just asking a question, but never mind.Well i did not mean to give a rude impression.
I checked the Virus and Spyware section and i see no logs posted at all from you so i wish you the best of luck.Pixietails, I am going to make an attempt to act as a conciliator/mediator with you so as to move your problem forward to a better (for you) resolution. When Patio came on board to try and assist you you were benefiting from one of the top advisers on these forums.He tends to be quite direct but that should not be taken for rudeness.In one of his earlier posts he stated that it is likely that your current problems may be ongoing due to the continued presence of virus,Trojans,etc. He asked you to click on a link which he provided. Had you done so you would have been directed to another component of the CH forums --namely the "virus" forum. Now that forum is different than all the others that make up the rest of the varied forums. Only people who are certified "experts" in dealing with virus,etc nasties are allowed to give advise on that forum. Whereas anyone (no matter whether the advise is good ,bad or indifferent )can post on the other forums. So that is why he was directing you there and away from the "hardware"forum. He was simply trying to get you in the forum he felt you needed to be posting in. I hope that you will reconcider and act on his advise. I am certain you will be the better for adhering to it. You might even decide to change your status and become a "member" of our group and not be just a guest.goodluck,truenorth

Ok, this has been FRUSTRATING me. Here's what I'm trying to do.

My XBOX 360 uses the VGA HD AV cable so I can have it display through my monitor which has two connectors, DVI-D (Digital) and VGA (Analog). The problem is, and has been for awhile, is that both my computer and Xbox need to USE the VGA connector. My graphics card doesn't have any DVI ports and we can NOT upgrade it.

I bought an adapter from NewEgg and it wouldn't fit into my monitor's DVI-D connector.

I TALKED with a Dell agent about what I needed to buy. He said I needed a VGA-Y splitter cable but every one I've looked at said it will not connect 2 signals to 1 display...so now I'm stumped and afraid to buy anything else.

Ok now to sum it up. I need help picking out the correct adapter I would need to convert a female DVI-D port on my monitor to VGA so I can connect my Xbox 360 along with my computer to the monitor and switch between the two using my monitor's input source selector. OR one to convert one of the VGA cables to DVI-D. I believe I've FOUND one that will work.

Here: http://www.amazon.com/CablesToBuy-8482-DVI-D-Female-Adapter/dp/B001CHQ52W/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


In case you need these:

This is the adapter I bought from NewEgg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814998101

This is my monitor: http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/products/Displays/productdetail.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=dhs&cs=19&sku=320-7619Check out KVM switches, I know they work for controlling 2 pc's via one monitor, but don't know about controlling 1 pc and 1 xbox with 1 monitor. Newegg's link to KVM switches ... http://www.newegg.com/product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=list&SubCategory=143Quote from: x2543 on May 15, 2009, 06:00:11 PM

Check out KVM switches, I know they work for controlling 2 pc's via one monitor, but don't know about controlling 1 pc and 1 xox with 1 monitor. Newegg's link to KVM switches ... http://www.newegg.com/product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=list&SubCategory=143

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-DVI-D-to-VGA-Cable-Converter-Adapter-HDTV-LCD-TV_W0QQitemZ170324222362QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090423?IMSfp=TL090423142003r1315

I think this is what you're needing (even though it looks really similar to what you've picked up on newegg). You can try asking the seller of that ebay item to see if it'll work for you because he's got the product on hand and he's a power seller!

Hey everyone, this is my first post, just hoping somebody COULD help me. I've just purchased a Nvidia Geforce GS 7300 video card for my Foxconn P4M9007MB Series motherboard. I've inserted the graphics card into the graphics card SLOT and closed the case.

I'm not sure whether I had to plug ANYTHING from or onto the graphics card since it didn't come with any cables or wires or anything. I then inserted the VGA monitor cable into the graphics card monitor cable slot and turned the TOWER/monitor on. The tower worked but there was no beep and the monitor said 'no signal' and the light on the monitor turned to orange instead of the usual blue.

The new graphics card I am using is the first graphics card to be placed into the graphics card slot on my motherboard, as I think the current graphics card is integrated on my motherboard or something.

Also, I read about the PSU fan have too low a wattage? I'm not sure how to find out the wattage of my PSU fan.

So all help EXPLAINING how to install the graphics card/get rid of the no signal message on my monitor would help tremendously.

Thank you in advance.

By the way, I'm using Windows Vista.Is there a 4 pin slot on the card for a power plug ? ?Hey patio. The only slot there is is an 11 pin slot which has a cable from the monitor port going into it.OK it would be on the card itself...not outside the case...
Double check to be sure.No other pin slots my friend. I've just realised my graphics card has no fan. Is that a problem or...?

Also, I just read it might be power supply issue.That card shipped with a fan....
Where did you but this beast ? ?



PS Post the make and wattage of your PSU just in case...Haha, CEX. My PSU is 350W or 450W I think.

As of two days ago, my previous motherboard decided to stop working out of the blue (working fine the night before, total failure on startup the next morning). I have been given a replacement by a generous friend (I am broke and cannot afford new COMPONENTS) and have been trying my best to get it to work.

Progress has been slow, but everything was looking good until I got around to the issue of sound..
Consistently, it has given me the "no audio DEVICE" message on anything sound related. I have tried out two different chipset drivers, and reinstalled each at least once, and tried out two different audio drivers installed after the chipsets and ALSO reinstalled at least once. I have checked in device manager with no issues, I have checked services and indeed the audio is set for automatic. I have checked the speakers which work fine, and they are plugged into the light lime green port on the new motherboard.

As of now, my furious attempts to fix the problem with driver re-installations appear to have screwed up the computer to the point I am unable to start it outside of safe mode (on safe mode with networking now). Failing to do so sees the computer freeze at the windows loading screen on startup.the motherboard might not even have on-board sound. And if it does, you should determine the proper driver before trying to install it.


To try to get it starting in normal mode again, uninstall Any sound-driver (and more important, chipset) software you've installed.As far as I am aware the motherboard is at least supposed to have onboard sound.

As for removal.. I appear to have gotten it to run in normal mode once again. Having done so, how can I remove these drivers? I am not familiar with the process.

Edit: Unsure if it is relevant, but this morning I reformatted to set a clean slate for all these new drivers. This has all taken place post reformat (save for the FIRST MB burning out), though it was still giving "no audio device" messages prior to the reformat (though I had not yet attempted any new drivers to fix the issue.)Re-install your MBoard chipset drivers...
If it's onboard sound they will be included.
This needs to be done whenever you format and/or re-install.I have already re-installed my MBoard chipset drivers before posting here.
There is onboard sound but it REFUSES to work. I have mannaged to aquire a sound card, put it in and get the proper drivers. Device manager says it is fully functional and indeed every single step I WENT through in the windows troubleshooter checked out. My computer belives it is playing sound just fine, but nothing is coming out of any speakers I have tried.

The mother board is a ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe if anyone could direct me to the definitive chipset drivers (I've been getting conflicting information on what the proper chipset drivers are)if you have a new sound card, remember to not only move the speaker plug to the sound card but also ensure it is going onto the output, rathern then line in or out or microphone.Yes, already checked. Its three speakers actually, all of which are in their proper color coded ports.just try with ONE set of stereo speakers in the LIME connector.

My computer specs right now are

Dell Xps 420

Windows Vista Home Premium 32bit
4G of ram
Nvidia GeForce 8800GT 512MB
Intel core 2duo CPU E6850 @ 3.00Ghz
320G Hard drive
What would be the best thing to update next?


I think you should upgrade your question. You obviously know the forum so your question is a little pretentious. I think you could do with a better chair for you to sit on maybe a throne??Might try upgrading by building your own PC .Why do you feel that machine needs an upgrade ? ?
What are you using most on this machine that leads you down the upgrade path ? ?Don't be too hard on the poster there are industries that rely for their futures on this type of attitude.Me thinks most of the technologies companies subscribe to that ideology and promote it with a fervor.truenorthThere is not much for Cowz to upgrade to UNLESS he wants to take over [emailprotected] and do it all himself.Quote from: truenorth on MAY 14, 2009, 06:06:34 PM

Don't be too hard on the poster there are industries that rely for their futures on this type of attitude.Me thinks most of the technologies companies subscribe to that ideology and promote it with a fervor.truenorth

I recently acquired a 5 port USB PCI card.This card has 4 external USB 2.0 ports and 1 INTERNAL. Are there any DEVICES that use an internal port that can be INSTALLED in a PC? If so what? Thank you.truenorthYou can use the internal USB connection for a 3.5" USB MEMORY card reader.x2543, Thank you.truenorth

??I was adding more memory and forgot to remove the battery.The laptop powered on, but would not boot. I realized the battery was present and turned the power off. Now the laptop will not power on at all! I USED the adapter, on another laptop and it WORKED perfectly. What has caused the laptop not to power on?Did you GROUND yourself before you went into the computer? You could try and take out the new ram that you added, hopefully that is what the problem is....Yeah either what "iamtonsoffrun247" said or your motherboard could be dead.I came across a fix on another website (toshiba FORUM) that involved REMOVING the adapter and battery, wait a minute or so and things then went back to normal....make certain the ram is well seated also.Thank you for your help. I hope the motherboard isn't dead, but if so, thats what I get! I will try to remove the battery and adapter, to see if that works.

I have a PC that has a broken RAID 1 Mirror.

Dell Inspiron Desktop 531.
Windows Vista Home Basic (piece of Crap OS,
with Windows Vista SP1 & 4GB of RAM, and out of warranty Tech support),
AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 4000+ 2.10GHz,
2x Mirrored 160GB Hard Drives - normally just C: shows, now C: & F: (F: Drive should NEVER EVER show).

During a Remote Live Help a Symantec so-called Tech,
without even the courtesy of pre-Notifying me first,
VERY POOR FORM,
changed things in my PCs Registry.
Completely buggering up my PC.

As out of warranty, Dell will only tell me how to access my RAID Bios for $45.
And Dells Techs are just a goodè as Symantec Techs.
(even though I have instructions and just need to know the keystrokes of how to access the RAID Bios)

Anyhow, after finally getting everything backed up, and re-installing Windows twice,
as I figured that should hopefully re-set my Registry, SOMEHOW caused my RAID 1 Mirror to break.
Thus, now the C: & F: Drive situation.
Plus, 2 sets of Windows installations.
No point re-installing all software until I can fix the RAID 1 Mirror.
Otherwise, just have to do it all over again.

Is there a way I can Restore the PCs Registry, re-format the RAID 1 Mirror and Clean install just 1 copy of Windows.
HELP PLEASE, my livelihood as a lowly Tech Writer depends on a working PC.

Im completely out of ideas,
tried Manuals on Dell Support site - useless.
Ctrl A, Ctrl S, Ctrl F10, etc Do NOT work!
Just cant seem to access the DARNED RAID 1 Bios to Restore the Mirror.


Background Info

I had been on Remote Live Help with Symantec for a Norton Save&Restore LiveUpdate Issue,
just shy of 2 weeks ago,
and the so-called Tech - more of just a phone receptionist without basic Customer Relations skills
(all based in India with PRETTY basic skills, as Ive also had the same with so-called Dell Techs,
as seen from me having to prompt them to think outside the box when things are not going exactly the way it is written in the manuals they work off of),
whereby the Techè, without even the courtesy of pre-Notifying me first,
changed things in my PCs Registry.
Completely buggering up my PC.

ie. USB connected Ipod no longer registered, PC freezing after 10-15 minutes of ANY application (ie. even something as basic as Windows Explorer open - which made it really fun to back everything up folder-by-folder to my external backup HD) as even trying to copy major folders to my backup drive would cause PC to freeze. ARRGGG!

Of course, Symantec says Sorry, but that is a system problem and manufacturer will have to help.
Nothing like being responsible when you bugger someones PC Registry up and leaving cleanup to them.
As out of warranty, Dell will only tell me how to access my RAID Bios for $45.
And Dells Techs are just a goodè as Symantec Techs.
(even though I have instructions and just need to know the keystrokes of how to access the RAID Bios)

Here are some links that might be of help:
http://forums.pcworld.co.nz/showthread.php?t=89771
http://www.broadbandreports.com/forum/r21143877-hard-drive-RAID-BIOS-Says-Array-Functional-but-Windows-Says-i
http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20060602010526729&board_id=1&model=P5WDG2-WS&page=1&SLanguage=en-us
Goodluck,truenorth

Shearch useing google. Type in the pc or shearch for the driver file that your having probelms with finally I found the correct drivers online at http://ftp.us.dell.com/audio/R107671.EXE

I'd LIKE to thank everyone for your time in helping me solve this problem If you'd mentioned it was a Dell the solution would have come much quicker...with Dell's all you have to do is visit their site, enter your service tag # and it lists every driver for your machine.

For Next Time...Your WELCOME, If you need help again you KNOW where to find us.I was wondering if someone could help me? I installed the driver listed above and my speaker icon went from saying no audio output device installed.... to volume: 0 but when i go to sounds it shows sigmatel working however wont let me configure. Under speaker properties under the levels tab there is nothing? I'm am desperate. I am trying to work from home but I need sound to do so. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. It's best to start a new Topic so it can RECIEVE the proper attention....
Even if your issue is similar to another.
Welcome ABOARD !

hello, my name is DEREK, and i'm having some problems with my hard drive(c).
It is full, and no matter what i DELETE it still shows it is full and i get the low disk space warning. i have restarted my computer, and it starts up with about 170mb of space, then within about 15 mins, dwindles down to 0. i have 3 user accounts on it, and i deleted one, but after a RESTART, it was back. also the programs i deleted with add/remove came back after i restarted my pc. some of the files i have tried to delete said it could not be deleted because it was corrupt and unreadable.
i thought it might be a bad sector on my disk. is that a possibility? i have tried to run Chkdsk, but it doesn't seem to do anything.

my disk capacity is 41.3gb170MB is practically ZERO. Couple of temporary files created, and the space is gone.
Windows needs at least 15% of a free space - over 6GB in your case.
With so low free space, next THING, you KNOW, your computer wont' boot at all.

Hello EVERYONE,
I have a really bizarre situation. yesterday, I was over at my brothers place attempting to transfer things from my hard drives to his using his computer. I don't know what the problem was but this is what happened.
I hooked up two of my SATA hard drives in addition to his and I also added a IDE hard drive. so a total of four hard drives in computer. I also connected two other additional external hard drives via USB onto his computer, so a total of 6 hard drives running. when it booted up, it was fine. at first, it installed drivers to SUPPORT my hard drives. and then I had to reboot after it was done. so the second time it booted up, I started moving files between mine and his. after about 10 minutes, the computer shut down, made a LITTLE swishing noise, and a few quick ticks, then I saw a spark right behind the computer (something was obviously blown, the smell indicated it....but don't know what). close to where the video card was located. after that it just wouldn't power on.

at first i thought that I PROBABLY had hooked up too many hard drives inside the computer and the power supply couldn't handle it. but after looking at the power supply, it was a 650W power, which was twice amount of what i have. and I had three hard drives in mine. since we are both broke right now, i want to know what could that spark meant. is it the motherboard that is burnt?..or is it something else.

although he has a plastic tower, I constantly had to ground myself on my metal case before touching each drive and before installing it into his. so i know it can't be a problem with body electricity. and looking at the motherboard, i couldn't see anything that looks like it was burnt or anything. so...i don't' know. my heart stopped for that moment when i saw that spark. can anyone help me come to a conclusion?
Thanks,
spider0735you probably did something wrong- does NOTHING happen when you power on? if not- at the very least, it's the power supply.

Wether the motherboard is also a victim, and/or the cards can only be discovered via the use of a new PSU- or, if your PSU is compatible, plop it in there- with just his original boot configuration.

Chances are, it will power up, but nothing will happen. If so it INDICATES a problem with the motherboard, or one of the cards. so, I would try simply started with the most basic config possible- a known good video card (perhaps even PCI, to rule out a problem with PCI-E or AGP or whatever he/your using), and no other cards. remove them, perhaps even test them on your PC if your feeling bold. (no need to get them installed and working, in my book, windows willingness to install drivers is proof enough of at least basic function). And One hard drive. (ignore the CD-drives for now). Then try to boot up.

No luck? We've narrowed it down to the CPU or motherboard (maybe even the HD- to prove otherwise try unplugging the HD, you should be able to at least get a BIOS screen).


IF none of this works- it's probably a motherboard failure.thanks for replying BC_programmer,....after that spark, it wouldn't power on anymore. nothing happens when the power button is being pressed except for the dry bitterness of the sound it makes. so if it's not the motherboard, it should still power on provided that the power supply still works, right? man...and there is no way to test it because his computer is about 5 years newer than mine so, the difference in hardware is quite large. the power input to my motherboard has only 20 pins...and his has 24 pins.

do you know if it's possible to fix a motherboard if something on it was burned?... like just replace the element that was burned instead of swapping to a new motherboard?

..hmmmIf you fried the motherboard you may see burn marks, but that isn't always the case ... see if there's a strong burnt electrical odor coming from the power supply fan....you might have got lucky and only fried the PS...Does your brothers' power supply allow you to slide 4 pins off the end of the connector to give you a 20 pin connector?
Unfortunately, when motherboards go bad there's not a lot you can do.

When I got this comp with a crap celeron d360 and 512k mem one of the first things I changed was the celeron D360 for a celeron e1200 both are socket 775 800 MHZ and the mem to 2gb but I was LOOKING at some more chips
the e1400/e1500 or a pentium e1260/80/2000/2200
I always FANCIED a a p4 based e2160/2180 and 65nm socket 775
I would like to know what BRANDED core chips go in the mobo but they have to be only s 775 and 800mhz

Have a Dell 305N power SUPPLY (305 maxW) and need to replace my NVIDIA 7300LE GRAPHICS card. I don't need a huge gaming card, but can I run say a 8600GT? It says it NEEDS 400W. Or another similar card? I would probably go with something like a nvidia 6800gt

I need some help if anyone can give it on Installing Ubonto??

My Aunt has a computer from a fue Years ago and it is an E Machine and it had Windows ME Installed on it.

Now she has a new computer and I was going to TAKE her E Machine and Install Ubonto on it.

Then give it to my sister.

Now I know the E Machine COMPUTERS are not good computers at all and they don't make them anymore.

But if I just Install Ubonto on it and she just uses it to go Online I thought it would be ok.

What is yourr thoughts on this can it work or what???My thoughts are that if you can't EVEN spell UBUNTU you're never ever gonna be able to install it and connect to the internet!!!

https://help.ubuntu.com/community/Installation/SystemRequirements

@Hedonist
After all, he's just a young insect nymph. so can't expect to much from it or him or whatever it is.


@nymph4, what is your e-machine's specs? (amount of ram, graphics card type ... those things). I'm just curious. I expect that Ubuntu should be able to run on it anyhow. Just download, burn to cd and get it running unless you want to wait the long wait for them to send you a cd. Shure go ahead and install it. It should work fineAh, how I love constructive criticism that only serves to demonstrate the poster's linguisitic superiority.



Ubuntu would be fine, but I WONDER if a more newbie-friendly distro might be a better choice? I've not tried it, but I seem to recall that GOS was touted as a good web-enabled distro for the less technically-minded.My suggestion would be to DLoad and run the Live Distro first...it runs off the CDROM and does not install anything...
If that goes well then install it.Quote from: nymph4 on May 30, 2009, 08:41:09 PM

Now I know the E Machine computers are not good computers at all and they don't make them anymore.

They are probably as good as other brands at a given price level, and they are still made.

The three Keyboard Lights on the UPPER right of most keyboards SHOE the status of the Num Lock, Caps Lock and Scroll Lock. Most of use don't look at these until we notice we are typing in UPPER CASE!
Most PCs with flash all three the instant you turn poser on. And maybe again several seconds later. The BIOS will flip on the Num Lock light on a desktop.
If you think your PC is frozen, try the Caps lock or Num Lock. If the PC is still RUNNING, the light will follow your keystroke.
Check out you PC next time you power up. Watch the Keyboard Lights. Knowing what to expect can help when you have video card go bad. Without the Video, you are not sure of what went bad. But if the lights still work, the problem is not the CPU or RAM or BIOS.


Press Caps Lock to see if the computer is functioning or not? Ridiculous!

I use the Num Lock key.


Anyways, this is indeed a very good DIAGNOSTIC tool. If the computer is frozen and the lights flash, give it a moment. The processor may just be overworked and will most likely recover. If the lights do not flash, you've got a problem.

hello all!

From theoretically,maximum number of USB device that can connect to PC is 127 in daisy chain, but why for IEEE 1394 the maximum number is just 63?

May I know why?

thanks! firewire essentially CREATES a network- USB is a host-based connection system.

As an example, with the proper firewire peripherals, you could, if necessary, have a CAMCORDER download data directly to a HD connected via Firewire, whereas USB would need to pass through the computer (the host) before being stored on the HD, taking up processor time.

I'm not sure of the specifics, but suffice it to say that, regardless, nobody will probably have that many firewire peripherals!In USB port u can attach 127 devices, but in firewire 67 only.And ? ?Quote from: thinkxtra on June 10, 2009, 10:20:50 AM

In USB port u can attach 127 devices, but in firewire 67 only.

May I know why?

Could someone please tell me if my other LAPTOP is a complete loss or should I attempt to have it repaired. About 4 months ago I set my laptop down on the floor and the dog knocked a glass of juice off a tv tray. Well the whole drink did not get it. The comp seems to work fine except 1/4 of the keys no longer work. They don't stick or anything, they just don't work. I'm just wondering if I will be wasting my time and money to see if it can be repaired.Is this laptop still under warranty? If so, you should be able to get the laptop repaired for free.

If not, you may still be able to get the keyboard fixed. Just bring it over to the computer store.If you search around the internet, you can find a replacement keyboard for your model. You'll need someone to install it if you're not confident enough to open up the laptop to replace it.Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on June 09, 2009, 12:49:06 AM

Is this laptop still under warranty? If so, you should be able to get the laptop repaired for free.

If you're honest about what happened when seeking warranty coverage for such a problem, I don't believe that would be covered under warranty. Warranty generally covers defects in manufacturing, not abuse or accident by the owner.

Unless your warranty covers accidental damage.

Just say you left it on the table and it started raining.

However,if you are competent and confident enough to remove the keyboard you could give it a good old wash in soapy water,followed by blowing out with air and an extended drying time in a hot place.Seriously,it may work but you must take care to ground yourself when handing your keyboard or you will kill it with static.

hi all new here and haven't built a PC in awhile and due to things i am stuck rebuilding my old one, OK here is there bartom xp-m i BOUGHT http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K7/AMD-Mobile%20Athlon%20XP-M%202800+%20-%20AXMJ2800FHQ4C.html

now ami right thinking set my multi to 16 and fsb to 133? i was told by a tech savy person that the 2800 actually OC's better than the 3200. your answers are appreciated I think the bus should be 266Quote from: computeruler on May 31, 2009, 10:32:39 AM

I think the bus should be 266

In conclusion, this was definitely entertaining, and an extra bonus was that Gamer11705 will, if he can be bothered to wade through the corrections and subsequent irrelevant rebuttals containing nothing of value to find a few tidbits of useful info, much better.

At thing point I'm inclined to declare "troll".

Quote

Dude that makes no sense on so many levels... so it's the quality of power and not output of power?

unless the guy has miniscule wires connecting from the psu to motherboard or barely connecting or something that's just not going to be the case.

Even if what you're explaining could happen which I've never heard of or expereinced myself the chances of it happening are rare but so far I've seen about 30 pages like this saying the exact same thing. psu's are just a bunch of capacitors voltage regulators, resistors, diodes a transformer and most importantly a fuse, they're not that difficult however there are a bunch of failsafes in place so that if this fails then everything does...

In addition to supplying electrical power to run the system, the power supply also ensures that the system does not run unless the voltages supplied are sufficient to OPERATE the system properly. In other words, the power supply actually prevents the computer from starting up or operating until all the power supply voltages are within the proper ranges.

The power supply completes internal checks and tests before allowing the system to start. If the tests are successful, the power supply sends a special signal to the motherboard, called Power_Good. This signal must be continuously present for the system to run. Therefore, when the AC voltage dips and the power supply can't maintain outputs within regulation tolerance, the Power_Good signal is withdrawn (goes low) and forces the system to reset. The system will not restart until the Power_Good signal returns.

The Power_Good signal (sometimes called Power_OK or PWR_OK) is a +5V (nominal) active high signal (with a variation from +2.4V through +6.0V generally being considered acceptable) that is supplied to the motherboard when the power supply has passed its internal self tests and the output voltages have stabilized. This typically TAKES place anywhere from 100ms to 500ms (0.1–0.5 seconds) after you turn on the power supply switch. The power supply then sends the Power_Good signal to the motherboard, where the processor timer chip that controls the reset line to the processor receives it.

In the absence of Power_Good, the timer chip holds the reset line on the processor, which prevents the system from running under bad or unstable power conditions. When the timer chip receives the Power_Good signal, it releases the reset and the processor begins EXECUTING whatever code is at address FFFF:0000 (usually the ROM BIOS).

If the power supply can't maintain proper outputs (such as when a brownout occurs), the Power_Good signal is withdrawn and the processor is automatically reset. When the power output returns to its proper levels, the power supply regenerates the Power_Good signal and the system again begins operation (as if you had just powered on). By withdrawing Power_Good before the output voltages fall out of regulation, the system never sees the bad power because it is stopped quickly (reset) rather than being allowed to operate using unstable or improper power levels, which can cause memory parity errors and other problems.

The only instance a computer would not boot but allow the fans and lights to COME on would be a power supply that cannot supply enough wattage to power the machine so if the computer needs 300 watts and the psu supplies only 200.

Who took the detour

At the mo, l'm using an old Lexmark Z42 which is great as l only print the ODD few b/w PAGES now and again. I also like the fact that it only needs two print cartridges.
Now, her indoors is demanding an "all in one printer", but some of them SEEM quite expensive (can't afford a lot of dosh) and they seem to have so many gizmo's attached to them that if one thing goes wrong, bang goes the whole printer! Also, you seem to need hundreds of different print cartridges in them, so the expense must be phenomenal!
All l want is an all in one printer (obviously) that does what it says on the box. Good print and photo quality, and with the least amount of print cartridges.
I don't care if it's an old model, maybe even discontinued, as they will no doubt be cheaper and l'll still get the guarantee with it.
Priced around £50 to £100, or thereabout.
Any of you guys(gals) out there got any suggestions as to what ones to LOOK at?
ThanksI just bought one for my grand-daughter and I think it was less than $150 bucks. HP. She'll be taking it with her to college in the fall. I've seen them in the $75-$100 range recently. You can also save some bucks by having your printer ink cartridges refilled by a drug store or the like.

I have a eMachines M2350 laptop. I had to install a new HDD and used the RECOVERY CD that came with laptop. It installed WINDOWS XP SP1. When I upgraded to windows XP SP2, the laptop keeps crashing and rebooting. Searching through the internet I discovery that it was a registry entry. The laptop came with a BigFix program that corrected the problem. But, Bigfix is no LONGER available. I've performed a recovery again, which put me back to SP1. Are there any suggestions to how to resolve the problemTry re=installing the MBoard drivers from the Driver CD that came with the laptop...How can install the chipset drivers I keep getting the BSOD i.e. Blue Screen of Death during BOOT? I keeps crashing and rebooting.
Thanks anyway for your assistance.