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I just got my sata DRIVE in the MAIL and I already have an IDE drive with xp pro installed.

I connected the sata...after hearing that you can have both types of drives connected but the sata doesn't show. All my googling is for installing xp on a sata....but I just want my EXISTING xp to see it.Does it show in COMPUTER Management? If so, right-click on the drive & format it. You need to format it before it will show up in Windows Explorer.

Sometimes I have to boot up the computer a second time to get sound from anything. On checking ALSA by:

# alsamixer -c 0

I see that when sound is not working the Alsamixer is SHOWING incomplete only one of the sound controls appears instead of seeing the Master and all the regular other sound adjusters. Also ALSA is CHOOSING the USB Webcamera instead of the Sound card.

After rebooting the sound is as normal! The Alsamixer shows as it should with Master Sound and all the sound level adjusters in place.

Is there a way of making Mandriva 2009.1 load the default the sound card each time on boot up avoiding reboots?

Pulse sound is disabled so as to allow SKYPE to work properly with
# LD_PRELOAD=/usr/lib/libv4l/v4l1compat.so skype.

ALSA lib conf.c:(3952snd_config_expand) Unknown parameters CARD=CMI8738,DEV=0
ALSA lib pcm.c:(2202snd_pcm_open_noupdate) Unknown PCM front:CARD=CMI8738,DEV=0

I have included part of what shows to show where the sound card is installed.


# [[emailprotected] ~]# lsmod | grep sound
sound core 8256 1 snd
# [[emailprotected] ~]# lsmod | grep audio
snd_usb_audio 85376 0
snd_usb_lib 16644 1 snd_usb_audio
snd_hwdep 7656 4 snd_usb_audio,snd_hda_codec,snd_hda_codec,wavefront,snd_opl3_lib
snd_pcm 84616 8 snd_usb_audio,snd_cmipci,snd_hda_intel,snd_hda_codec,snd_cs4236,snd_wss_lib,snd_pcm_o
ss
snd 63812 23 snd_usb_audio,snd_cmipci,snd_hda_intel,snd_hda_codec,snd_cs4236,snd_mpu401,snd_wavefront,snd_wss_lib ,sndopl3_lib,snd_hwdep,snd_mpu401_uart,snd_rawmidi,snd_seq_device,snd_pcm_oss,snd_pcm,snd_timer,snd_ mixer_oss
usbcore 188432 7 snd_usb_audio,snd_usb_lib,gspca_zc3xx,gspca_main,uhci_hcd,ehci_hcd
# [[emailprotected] ~]#

hey i have a seagate ST3120026AS. I just looked at it in my storage manager ( brand new install of windows 7) and the manager tells me i have 4 simple volumes on this drive. I never set these up.

together, they are 20 GB of space of disk!!!

does anyone know why these partitions EXIST? are they manufactured in there?

If my drive History helps:
I have had this drive about 2 years, reinstalled XP 3 times, recently ran DBAN (zero the drive) and just installed windows 7 today. Quote from: yanng1 on December 03, 2009, 10:30:38 PM

I have had this drive about 2 years, reinstalled XP 3 times, recently ran DBAN (zero the drive) and just installed windows 7 today.

Unfortunately the only way to determine if it's the CPU or BOARD is with another CPU and board...Issue solved, thanks everyone!Good.

But i'm sure some INQUIRING minds AROUND here will ponder why and how...Quote from: patio on September 07, 2008, 10:01:24 PM

Good.

But i'm sure some inquiring minds around here will ponder why and how...

Quote from: patio on September 07, 2008, 10:01:24 PM

Good.

But i'm sure some inquiring minds around here will ponder why and how...

Wall plug...

My mom has had this computer since 2001 or 2002. She smokes around it a lot.
Its a Gateway Desktop computer with Windows XP HOME edition installed.


Occasionally it shuts down almost immediately after powering it on. She has to wait a while before trying again and it works, eventually. I on the other hand will not wait. I'll remove/install the cmos battery and power the computer back on to make it power up correctly. I've isolated the problem as much as I possibly can and get figure this out... I tried a different PSU, used different wall outlets, blew out the dust, reseated the cables.... name it and I've probalby tried it..

All I can think of at this point is that the motherboard is going bad or there is a coat of tar/nicotine on the mboard causing a SHORT...

Can cigarette tar cause motherboard shorts? Either way, the motherboard needs to be replaced, I think, unless some genius can figure this out..The power supply is the most vulnerable. But you ALREADY did that.
Everything has to be cleaned.
Everything. Blowing out dust is not enough. You remove the CIRCUIT BOARDS and let them soak in a solvent. Then let them dry completely. At least 24 hours to dry. Preferentially with forced dry warm air.
Even then, that may not work. Some components can be permanently damaged by environmental contamination.

It is such a chore that it is more cost effective...
to dispose of it and buy a new one.have you tried a new battery?Quote from: EEVIAC on December 13, 2009, 01:46:13 PM

...Can cigarette tar cause motherboard shorts?...

The power supply is the most vulnerable. But you already did that.
Everything has to be cleaned.
Everything. Blowing out dust is not enough. You remove the circuit boards and let them soak in a solvent. Then let them dry completely. At least 24 hours to dry. Preferentially with forced dry warm air.
Even then, that may not work. Some components can be permanently damaged by environmental contamination.

It is such a chore that it is more cost effective...
to dispose of it and buy a new one.

have you tried a new battery?

i'm not sure if this is the place to PUT up this question i apologize if it is but im looking for a small gaming CHASSI all i have is 2 hard drives my asus striker motherboard POWER supply and graphics card, is there any nice compact chassi i can useand i only need ONE slot for my cd drivePlease provide more details on what it is you WANT to accomplish here...

Hello.
Have an ACER ASPIRE 5100, which periodically ( much more as of late) will not boot, and going to the bios to look at stuff, the Hard drive and the dvd drive are not even mentioned... other times it will just boot normally. have windows 7 on this one.
already tried many things ( re-install windows, install another windows, CHANGE HD, flash bios, re-seat processor etc) lately out of desperation I found out by sheer coincident, that if I bend the laptop a little ( thous bending the mobo), it will recognize all, and start just fine. as long as I hold it this way it will work, as soon as I release it, it will freeze and die on me.
already opened all panels, and looked if there were any cracks on the mobo, but none were discovered.

BTW for some reason the bios says this is an aspire 3100, and the body, and sticker says it is a 5100...
I also looked up to sell it on e-bay and see at least 5 of them sell as is for the same EXACT reason...
any one has any idea's?,
anyone can help before i GET rid of it?
Thanks.

I have transformed a Dell 8400 into a monster, now i just need to change the Hard Drive up. I am fairly experienced with other hardware, but when it comes to Hard Drives i am a total noob. Right now i have a Maxtor 250 Gb, got the computer back in 05' and it has 3 platters apparently, it is seriously outdated now, and its starting to make some noises (nothing serious but it has been getting slower). I have a GIGABYTE GA-EP35-DS3L, 4 SATA ports, and my case has plenty of open spots. Right now this is my choice of drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136218 .

Now that's about all the good i am on Hard Drives, I want to for sure put my current XP on the new hard drive, without re-activation(think the XP tech center is closed down?) As far as i know, Acronis® Migrate Easy 7.0 would transfer EVERYTHING, INCLUDING Windows, but since my drive has been slowing im not sure if it is the junk on it or the drive itself. In other words i want to steer away from reformatting because of losing XP. I would make a clone of the current drive, and it would move it to the other, unplug the old one, and then BOOT off the new.

When i receive the drive, what would i do first? Plug it in, and... see if the computer recognizes it? Then run the application? Do you just plug the drive in another SATA port? How do you configure it to a certain file system?

Any input would be awesome, thanks!Hmmm .... others can help here too - but for starters, if old HDD is POSSIBLY sick, priority for me would be to transfer important data, then remainder of OS.

Initially tho - assuming old drive on SATA #1 (jumpered master) - set up new one as slave on SATA #2 ....... and proceed from there, as it should be ''seen'' from get go.

In Computer management, then drive management - get the drive partitioned as you want and NTFS will probably come up as default. Once that done you should be ready to go - but .... not having used that migrating tool - not sure right now how things will be set up re the boot sector.

I'll wait for someone else to chime in - more info the better.Use the Data Lifeguard tools to "clone" the old drive to the new one...
Simply install the new drive then boot to the bootable CD.
Follow the instructions for cloning the drive and let it run to completion...this may take some time so be patient
WARNING: if you interrupt the process for any reason you risk losing everything.
When it finishes remove the CD and power down.
Remove the old drive...disconnecting both cables is fine...and connect the new drive to SATA port 1 on the MBoard.
Power up...check all your programs and data and it should work fine.
After being satisfied everything is in working order you can then hook up the old drive...format it and if you trust it enough use it for additional storage.

NOTE: The drive you are buying is an OEM which means it wont ship with the WD software so you will have to grab it from WD's site...
Follow the instructions on creating a bootable CD and you should be good to go...

Good Luck !Would the WD software work with my Maxtor? Or should i use a similar program from Maxtor's site? Where can I find instructions on making a bootable CD I am basically doing the same thing, swapping drives using Norton Ghost however. I have posted a question just now. My concern is will defective sectors be copied over as well, or is this a hardware problem vs. a software problem? Physical or program? Quote from: spuzz on September 07, 2008, 08:38:21 AM

Would the WD software work with my Maxtor? Or should i use a similar program from Maxtor's site? Where can I find instructions on making a bootable CD

I am basically doing the same thing, swapping drives using Norton Ghost however. I have posted a question just now. My concern is will defective sectors be copied over as well, or is this a hardware problem vs. a software problem? Physical or program?

can anyone INSTRUCT me on how to disassemble a Toshiba Satelite P35-S611 laptop. I need to get inside to resolder a BAD solder JOINT at the charging JACK. thanksgimmo, http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/toshiba-satellite-a35/complete-disassembly-1.htm
truenorththank you --just what I neededGlad to be of service.truenorth

I searched for the answer but couldn't find someone who had the exact same problem.
I have a Dell 5400 and it refuses to start up. What happens is:
You press the power button and the power light comes on but you get no beep or anything and the monitor doesn't register that the computer is on.
You must restart the computer MANY times before the monitor will come on.
Once it finally does come on it will freeze while trying to start windows.
You can get to and work in SAFE mode with no PROBLEMS but can't work in windows.
Any ideas or is there any information that I might be missing?

ThanksQuote

Once it finally does come on it will freeze while trying to start windows.

Hi
i'm using mac pro 2.66 Quad CORE with 3 GB memory.
my optic drive is : OPTIARC DVD RW AD-7170A.

i'm trying to install logic pro but when i insert the dvd installation disc it spits it back out after 20-30 sec..
i've 8 discs of installation and non of them is readable.

when i put regular dvd or cd i have no problem.

also, i have a macbook pro and when i insert the dvd installation disc its ok and can be read by the optic drive.

anyone have an idea of what to do or get across by the same problem and fix it?
thanksAs an apple owner but far--far from being an expert: there seems to be a couple of factors that are necessary to know before the QUESTION you ask can be ANSWERED. \1.What is the O/S?
2.What version of logic pro are you trying to install?
Just to start you off here is a very general topic link from Google. maybe once the 2 questions i have BROUGHT up are factored in your answer may be contained somewhere within the link. Good luck.
P.S. it was on the tip of my fingers to advise posting this question on the "apple" forum--EXCEPT that i have been there a few time (not lately) and it is almost useless to go there as there does not really appear to be a great deal of apple types on the CH forums. You might want to actually try an exclusive apple forum. Not that i want to have you leave us here on the CH forums. But we do have limitations. truenorth
http://www.google.ca/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GZHZ_enCA241CA241&q=how+to+install+logic+pro+on+a+mac+pro%3f

Im having a problem with a dell inspiron 6000. When I PLUG the adapter in the power LIGHTS comes on and stays on....but the hard drive
LIGHT only lights up for about 5 seconds. I charged the battery overnite and un plugged it but the battery does not keep the charge. Im assuming the adapter is good because the light on it stays lit. Is this a battery problem? Looks like it but im not sure. Thankscan you pull the battery and TRY to run it off the adapter?

If the machine is 3 + years old it's most likely the battery...
Yes...it runs with just the adapter.....thankslike PATIO said.....the battery is toasted.

My Acer Aspire 4720z notebook constantly enters stand by mode on its own. It started out only doing it when it first booted up, and would do it 2-4 times. Now it continues to do this every15-3- minutes. I was given a script to disable Stand By mode and for the duration of that day it worked. But now its back to its usual stand by tactics. I even tried running the script again, but no luck. I had tried to change the ACPI driver (I have a DUAL Processor) to the standard ACPI, and that FIXED the stand by issue, but OBVIOUSLY made the computer EXTREMELY slow. I restored back and now again have the stand by issue. Any suggestions?

I am USING:

XP SP3

Intel PENTIUM dual CPU
1.87GHz, 2Gb Ram

My wife has the above printer. It is a 3 function UNIT print,copy,scan. It has been well documented that this particular printer is a real ink hog. Does ANYONE know (hopefully because they own one) of a method that enables the continued use of the scanner and/or copier when the ink cartridges are indicating ink empty? She has another ink jet printer that she prefers instead of the Canon for printing and would only like to have continued access to the scanner.copier functions. All references to both the paper manual and the embedded software help do not provide any indication of how to do this or even if it can be done. Here is a link that enables supposed RESETTING of the ink out message. http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/forums/inkjet/41962
While others claim success with this software and the process such has not been our experience. Thank you, truenorth
Just an update on this ISSUE. It has become Canon's official response that on this model (printer/copier/scanner) if for ANY reason the printer does not function then the other two components WILL NOT work and nothing can be overridden or altered to get them to work. THUS in reality it is only a 3 function machine if the printer works. truenorth

Can you use USB RAM as the only RAM running your computer?
and
Do you need to have Windows XP to MAKE USB RAM WORK? (eg can you just have a BIOS program that does it or something)

Any help would be good!
THANKS,
Jackson CUSB RAM? you mean Vista/7 ReadyBoost?

Quote

Can you use USB RAM as the only RAM running your computer?

Do you need to have Windows XP to make USB RAM work? (eg can you just have a BIOS program that does it or something)

I can't get a projector for under $50 but I WANT to watch TV and movies in bed with a projector. I SAW an article at http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-an-iPod-Video-Projector/ and it teaches me to build a iPod projector. Can I do it for a old CRT monitor?

If I want to use a A/V device, I can always use a TV tuner.Never say never, but with the way a CRT is designed, makes it highly UNLIKELY that it could be used as a projector for what you want.

A CRT actually already is a projector but it is designed just to project on to the front screen.Best of Luck to you...

I need to replace my hard drive. It is a Samsung 60gb model SV6003H.

It has a 39pin connector and a 4 pin connector with an 8 pin between the
4 and 39 pin CONNECTORS.

What type of HD do I look for? I don't know how to identify if it is a
SATI, EIDE, etc. I haven't been ABLE to determine this.

I've been looking for info/pictures of connectors with no luck. Can you help
identify this HD type for me. Where is a good place to hunt down this
information for future searches for HD, DVD, etc.?



Thanks,



Learnmorexp

Quote

It has a 39pin connector and a 4 pin connector with an 8 pin between the
4 and 39 pin connectors.

I have a hp pavilion laptop and have had the Wireless Notebook Optical Mouse 4000 from microsoft

I have been using it for a while and recently the clicker has stopped working unless i click very very hard

i already gave it a new battery and that hasnt helped

any ideas?FAULTY mouseIt sounds, to me, that its on its way to the big mouse heaven in the sky.

Try googling it and seeing if the manufacturer has any tips on CLEANING the inside of it.

This MIGHT help http://support.microsoft.com/kb/321122/en-usI had a similiar problem with my expensive Intellimouse explorer. It was starting to really anger me- so I took it apart. Turned out some crud was stuck in the groove between the mouse button and the case itself. So I scraped a pound (ok, exaggeration) of dark coloured crud (dead skin? walrus roe? who knows?) out of it, slapped it back together, and good as new! (well, aside from the black mark on the left mouse button right where my finger sits...)Walrus roe....i'm sure of it !
Quote from: patio on September 07, 2008, 08:14:57 AM

Walrus roe....i'm sure of it !

Quote from: patio on September 07, 2008, 08:14:57 AM

Walrus roe....i'm sure of it !

What the h**l is Walrus roe

Whenever I mouse over certain objects (like a java window), the image shrinks about 1/3 and is pushed to the left. It makes all these weird color lines that go down the window. An example from the NVIDIA control panel is attached. My video card is integrated in my COMPUTER. If you need my system SPECS, just ask.

Before MOUSEOVER : NVIDIAbefore.JPG
After mouseover : NVIDIAafter.JPG

[Saving space, attachment DELETED by admin]TRY uninstalling windowblinds or whatever you are using for skinning, and see if that helps.I uninstalled MyColors (made by Stardock)(like windowblinds), but nothing changed. I uploaded some more pics from a java game at http://www.notdoppler.com/frame/639.html. In the AFTER pic, the X I drew is where my mouse was.



[Saving space, attachment deleted by admin]

I bought a new SATA Seagate 1TB hard drive for extra storage. My primary drive is a Western Digital IDE drive on a 'MSI P7N SLI-FI LGA775 ATX Motherboard MS-7380-030' Motherboard and I have a 430W power supply.

The drive installs fine. I can send data to it and run things off it. The next day the drive doesn't work. It cannot be read and makes a clicking noise. I took back the drive and installed a new one with the exact same result. The drive is still under warranty so I can get another new one for free but am very reluctant because I've already fried two drives. The store did diagnostics to confirm damage to both drives. Is there something going on with my computer that I can fix or am I extremely unlucky at getting two defective drives despite this brand supposedly being very reliable? Or is the issue with running an IDE drive with a SATA drive. The salesman assured me there would be no problem with this configuration, but he seemed more eager to make a sale than to have my machine working. Thanks in advance for your help.
Have you had any kind of power issues? Intermittent freezing? Reboots?.....How old is the power supply?Very odd. But it can happen.
I am very clumsy with things, but the only time I have fried drives is when I tried to put the power connector into the drive while the system is in the power on state. Not a very bright thing to do. I would not accuse the OP of being as dim witted as I am!
The OP should send it back for another drive.
Can not positively never happen again. The power supply is as old as the computer which is about 1.5 to 2 years old. I haven't had any power issues and the system is pretty stable. The only issue is every once in a while i get booted off the internet and have to reboot to reconnect but I THINK that is more an issue of my crapy ISP than my computer as my roomates have similar issues. The drive never moved after the install and the power connectors were not messed with while the computer was running. The guy at the store thought power supply or some issue with my SATA connection. I doubt its my power supply since its not affecting anything else in my system. Is is possible its my SATA? Is there any kind of test I can run to see? What confuses me is how it works perfectly when first installed then fails the next day.

This is probly a really stupid question but I'm a newbie, what is an OP?

Thanks again for your help !OP is An operator.
An operator is a super user.

Your power supply has both SATA and regular power connectors. RIGHT? If it was wired wrong, the drive would not work at all and would be destroyed quickly.

The drive has a manufacture red defect. In the industry this is called infant mortality. It refers to the tenancy of new products to fail after coming off the production line. They will fix the problem soon. Meanwhile, the customers have to make use of the warranty. This is inconvenience we, the consumers, pay for being on the cutting edge.
Thanks again for your help. My power supply does have SATA power connections. I used that connection the first time, thinking that might be the issue since it is the only thing on my system using a different connector aside from the MB, I used a converter from a regular power connector to SATA the second time with the same result. I'm sure that it was wired right as the drive was recognized instantly and performed perfectly for the few hours I was using the computer. It wasn't until the next day that I had the issue. I'm glad to hear that this is a defect rather than something in my system. Would you RECOMMEND me getting a different hard drive or trying this one again and hoping the third time will work out?op = original posterYou might ask for a model that is a little different.
But the warranty is for the original unit.
If it was me, a third try of the same would be fine. I was able to exchange it for a Western Digital Caviar Green of the same size which was about $10 more. It was immediately recognized and is working great so far, I'll let you know if it CRASHES. If this one crashes I have to believe it is an issue with my system. Thanks a lot for your help it has been very useful. The only thing that I can think that may have been wrong with the Seagate drive, besides the possible factory defect, is in the way the drive is formatted. The Western Digital drive told me to use Windows to format the drive which took a few hours on a drive so large while the Seagate drive came with software which formatted the drive in a matter of minutes. I could be completly wrong as I have no idea what the difference in formatting is or if it even matters, but it seems strange that there is such a difference in time. Regardless, if anyone is considering the Seagate drive I would recommend for them to stay away and pay the extra money for a Western Digital which has always been a reliable brand for me. That is probly what I should have done in the first place. The problem with the WD drive is that it doesn't come with a SATA cable, but luckily I had one. Thanks again

I am not a comp nerd

First of all, I am not entirely sure what video CARD I have. I know it is either a Nvidia Geforce 9600 GT or 9600M GT. I know the M version is for laptops but both GPU-Z and Rivatuner STATES that it is 9600M GT while at boot, before the splash screen when it is showing the GPU Bios Version e.t.c it says 9600 GT. In GPU-Z it also says that the card only has 128MB of memory while at startup it says 512MB. I have compared my specs to the official specs of both desktop and laptop versions and it seems it is closer to the laptop version but it is not exact. In fact the specs are lower than the official.

The official drivers don't work, neither laptop or desktop drivers. What does work is dox's customized forceware which as you can tell from the name is customized and so unofficial.

On a side note, what does the approx. total memory in dxdiag actually show? I gathered it was something to do with using RAM when the gpu's run out but I'm not sure. It also says 9600M GT here.

Oh, while I'm at it, I overclocked it the other DAY and re-ran windows 7's index rating. Gaming graphics performance went up from 4.8 to 5.1 but aero performance stayed at 4.8? Shouldn't it increase?

Any ideas? ThanksI'm sorry, what's your question?

And to find out what card you have go to device manager.It says 9600M GT in device manager. Sorry for being unclear. I just wanted to know why there are conflicting readings and why official drivers dont work e.t.c. I put many questions in my first post but those are the main ones.Laptop drivers are indeed often highly customized and very specific to the system. In many cases you can only use the drivers provided by the laptop manufacturer. Not much to do about it.Duh again. I am very sorry but I forgot to mention that I have a desktop. That is why I am so confused as to why my card seems to be a laptop one???Well, that IS strange. As far as I can see that IS a laptop card. Try downloading and running either Belarc Advisor or Everest and see what they say for your video card specs.hmm belarc also says 9600M GT...

if no one can answer that question then how about my other two questions about dxdiag and windows index rating?

Im using windows XP. I tried to start my COMPUTER this MORNING and this message came up.

"Windows could not start because the following file is missing or corrupt:

\system32\ntoskrnl.exe.

Please re-install a copy of the above file."


I BOUGHT this refurbished computer about a year ago and I dont have the disks.


Thanks or your help.
1) Download the RECOVERY Console .iso and burn it to a cd using sw that burns .iso images (http://forums.pcpitstop.com/index.php?showtopic=150212)

2) Boot to the recovery console CD

3) Rename C:\WINDOWS\system32\ntoskrnl.exe

4) Copy ntoskrnl.exe to C:\WINDOWS\system32 from C:\WINDOWS\system32\dllcache

5) Reboot

I have a brand new XBOX 360 CONTROLLER for windows that I have put on my Vista 32 bit laptop. I have the latest drivers, and it TURNS on when I PLUG it in.
Unfortunately, when I play a game that should support the 360 gamepad, it is not RECOGNIZED. No button I press on the 360 controller is recognized by the game, and I am forced to play using the keyboard and mouse.
I have my usb mouse unplugged when I play the game, so I don't think that is the problem. My touchpad is active though, so could that be the problem? I don't have any other controllers/peripherals connected, so I can't think what else would be the problem.
I tested the controller on two games: Borderlands, and Batman: Arkham Asylum. Both support the 360 pad, but both are not working for me.
What should I do?!whats the game that it doesnt work on? you can ALLWAYS check a game related forum for any problems related to that specific game and the use of a xbox 360 controller with it

Hi i have just reached the max CAPASITY on my 2 Gb sony jump drive. the computer tells me i must format it. is there a way to get my files of it first?When u plug it in...does it give u options? no when i go to my computer and CLICK its says. your drive is not formated would ou like to format it now?
I check the properties the drive is full.
Try Recuva to restore the files...I dont KNOW how much this will help...ive never used it on a jump drive...but u can try?

http://www.piriform.com/recuva/download
can't i SOMEHOW copy the files?Can you see the files?like i said when i try to click on the drive is says i must format it. would you like to fomat it know?Then how can you copy the files?Flash Memory Toolkitits only a TRIAL i can scan for my files but i can't retrieve them
any more helpRecuva is FREE...i tried that too it said it could not read from the drive.

Quote

Hi,

I recently acquired a new 8 button MOUSE (ione lynx p3) from someone who had no use for it. It says on the box "no drivers required for windows XP" so i plugged it in and it went through the whole found new hardware etc. and then it told me it was ready to use. But it didn't work not even the movement. So i deferred back to my old 3 button mouse which worked fine, or so I thought.

Now when I click the middle mouse button (using my 3 button mouse) My Documents pops up in EXPLORER. I've tried updating the drivers and reinstalling them but no change. It's not so much the middle mouse button but the middle click function because in Logitech Setpoint, when I change the function of the middle button to something else (i.e. minimize, do nothing, start menu, etc.) it works fine for it's assigned function but not for the middle click function. This is quite frustrating as I use Autocad and Revit where the middle button is essential for panning and rotating. I run XP sp3.

Thanks

Hi..I had my computer at a college UNIVERSITY where they used an ethernet system, and the computer worked FINE. When I got it home, the internet will no longer work, and it doesn't RECOGNIZE the modem. Any tips on how to fix this myself instead of taking it into a shop?? Thanks!Open network CONNECTIONS, click on the lan connection and enable it.

Tell me 775, what d o you do? I MEAN do for ME?
All the new stuff has a 775 lintel non-socket. Unless it is AMD.
So, my chance of every upgrading my 478 P4...
are down the drain.

<EM>Please don't send me to 775 school...
I don't care it has more pins and are not really pins.

I want to know what do it do for me?
If I get it, how long can I keep it?
Will I be happy on a low end DUAL core? Do I need the i7?
Do all 775 CPUs do 64 bit?
Is the 775 a 64bit data path? Never mind. I don't wanna know.

I am thinking of burying a cheap 775 motherboard...
maybe used.
Aand replace my old ASUSTeK board, a P4V8X-MX.
Of course it works. But it is slow.well


what does the 478 offer over the SLOT A or the Super Socket 7?Quote

what does the 478 offer over the Slot A or the Super Socket 7?

I bought a PC a couple of years ago, and a GeForce 7950 GT video card to go with it. I had them install the video card for me when I bought the PC.

A few weeks ago my PC broke and I had to replace the original video card myself before I took it in for repairs so that my warranty would be valid. That all WENT fine, and they ended up replacing my motherboard.

When I was removing the GeForce, I noticed that there was a cable running from what I guess is the powersupply to the videocard, which I had to unplug to remove it.

Now that I have gotten my PC back I went to reinstall my GeForce, and noticed that the cable is no longer there for me to plug in. I went ahead and installed the GeForce anyway (which I am using right now) and everything seems to be working fine, even without that missing cable plugged into it.

What I'm wonering is if it's okay to use it like this? Will my games still work or should I call them about it? I don't know much about computers, but I'm guessing that they used that cable on the new motherboard instead of LEAVING it free like it was.

as FAR as my knowledge with computers goes i think it would be ok, aslong as you stay away from any hardcore graphic based games (crysis) or graphic related programmes. i think that cable powers the fan but if the card keeps cool without the need for its own fan then its fine. you might want to talk to the people who fixed your computer because they may have changed your powersupply with something elseIt would be a real good idea to have it plugged in. They probably hid it on the other side of the computer. Take both sides of it off. Some graphics cards require more 12V power than the slot can provide. Better find it and plug it in soon before you damage the motherboard slot.You've been hosed by the shop that worked on your machine...
I'd call them and suggest you have hired Legal Counsel and ask them what they are willing to do to rectify the situation.....

HECK it's probably not even your original vid card and/or RAM as far as you know...

I've never had a problem like this before and It's very complex. I haven't been able to find anyone who can thoroughly understand the problem, the reason for it, or how it happened but the fact is.. it did happen and it's real. As a crazy as this will sound. Here I go.

I'm an avid gamer. I've been gaming for years now. I ran into a problem recently with an older computer I had. Apparently It's possessed by a demon or something super natural happened but basically

I've went through three different mouses on this one computer and the same thing happened every time. Two razer mice, and one logitech.

The mouse abnormally slow on the highest of all DPI settings, sensitivity etc. I've re-installed ALL drivers, tried without drivers, reinstalled Operating systems. Tried different Operating systems, tried different PORTS and tried TWO different cpus and nothing has changed.

The mouse simply will move VERY VERY slowly on the highest of all settings, and the mouse speed will change upon restart, idle etc.

It makes absouletely no sense. Now I've reasoned that there is no way I've been sent three bad mice. At one point or period they functioned normally and somewhere in a small time period they began to DYSFUNCTION and I can not find the reason.

Here is the questions I have.

Is it possible for a mouse to damage a USB port, or vice versa?

Can there be internal damage done to a mouse plugged in a possibly damaged USB port or motherboard? * Just speculation )

By plugging these damaged mice into new systems, am I risking damage to the new system?

The final questions I have is, is it possible to fix this problem?

I don't think I'll find much help here because this is a problem that not many people have heard of, or encountered. I'd need someone very technical and knowledgeable about computers. I'm thinking like Engineers or something. Well I thought I'd post anyway and try.

I would literally pay over a $100 just to find someone who can help me fix this problem. It has ruined gaming for me in the last two years or so and I'm left clueless. I hope if no one can help me here, they can point me in the right direction.

If I really find someone who can diagnose the problem and help me fix it.. I'd seriously hand over a $100 +. I've spent so much more trying to fix it. 3 mice, brand new CPU. Well.. I hope I can find someone. Thank you for your time1) Just ask the question without all the other nonsense
2) Saying you don't think you'll find much help here is NOT an incentive for us to help you
3) Nor is offering money. It's insulting.I'm just being reasonable. Do you think you've ever heard of such a problem? Not many people have. It's not that my expectations of anyones knowledge here is low but you don't come to a doctor with a very rare medical condition that he has never heard of and expect him to save you, but what else can you do? I am not being negative, just realistic. I apologize if I offended anyone.

Offering money just shows my frustration with the problem. Do you know how I feel? Probably not. Thanks for the warm welcome though, I feel even more hopeful.Quote

The final questions I have is, is it possible to fix this problem?

I just want to make sure my cpu that I have now is not being damaged by these mice in any way, is that even possible? I hope that makes sense.

From your first post I did not see that you were into mouse modification.
Some PCs will not do well on a modified mouse. Even some new ones!
Look here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6st5jJLMbc
Of course that is about the MAC.
But in any case, the mouse does not damage the PC.

If the mouse has been modified, the PC may not be able to read the mouse correctly. Mouse firmware is low-level code. You have to count time delays and things like that and generate a response in a very short time frame.

My guess is the old PC does not have USB 2.0 and that would make a difference with a custom mouse.

So then, no, don't throw the old PC away. Just get a standard mouse. Or use a analog Joy Stick. if it has an old joy stick port.

This is reallllllllly important, my Dad's going to FLIP when he gets back.

We wen't halfs on an external hard drive which Windows in now not detecting, it comes up under device manager where it says everythings dandy however under volumes it has no data for the drive.

When you load up Disk Management it says I must initialize a disk before Logical Disk Manager can access it. Disk 2 is already checked and MBR is selected so when I press Okay an error MESSAGE pops up saying 'Incorrect Function' Same when I select GPT instead of MBR.
Then when I try to right click Initialize disk is grayed out. It wasn't about half an hour ago though :/ Half an hour ago when I PRESSED Initialze disk it came up with 'incorrect function' againCan you right-click on it and format it?No, it's grayed outDid the disc ever work properly or did you just install it? Did you do anything or make any changes before the problem arose?It used to work fine. Then when I was BACKING up some FILES because I was going from Vista to 7 and then after that it didn't work. It crashed the first time I tried to run it on Windows 7.

Hello. I have a Toshiba Satellite A215 laptop, running Vista. I have had it about 1 1/2 years. From the beginning the screen has GONE BLANK while I'm using it. It doesn't seem to matter if I'm surfing the web or just doing word processing. I can hear it running in the background, but the screen is blank except for a "glow" around the edge. When I first got it I took it back to Best Buy for the same PROBLEM. They had it for a couple of days (I have no idea what they did), but it worked fine for a couple of months, then the problem started again. Recently it seems to be getting worse. The only way to get it back on is to manually shut it down.

I am a novice, so any suggestions WOULD be a help. It's getting really annoying.

Thanks.try using [FN] + F4 it switches the screen between the laptop screen and an external screenQuote from: h0thead132 on December 13, 2009, 01:19:44 AM

try using [FN] + F4 it switches the screen between the laptop screen and an external screen

Hey! Here is my problem: when I play games like Starcraft, Earthsiege 2 (old gameS), the colors of my computer start to go crazy. For example, the water in starcraft has blue, red, purle, green and yellow lines over it. This happens when I play an old game for more than 30 min. And you dont even want to know what happens to the colors in starcraft in the menu where you choose which mission to play, everything is white, black and blue..(and maybe other colors) . So why does this happens Is it a problem with my video card? When I play a new game (Like WoW), everything in my computer stays normal. My video card is NVIDIA GeForce FX 5200. 128 MB memory What OS and service pack are you running?Are you using the latest driver for the video card? If not, download & install it and see if that helps.and if none of the above works blow the dust outQuote from: Quantos on November 24, 2009, 06:32:49 AM

What OS and service pack are you running?

Are you using the latest driver for the video card? If not, download & install it and see if that helps.

and if none of the above works blow the dust out

That might be.. I installed the new drivers.. all I have to now is wait to see if it works.

I don't know what "applied" means. It sounds as though you did not actually INSTALL the new driver. You need to run the "setup.exe" file in the driver download. Did you do that and did the new driver install (it would have gone through a whole setup routine).

ahh ya good times. 4870 did this to me before. Uninstall the drivers with driver sweeper, restart, then install the drivers by running the setup you downloaded

Try setting your desktop color depth at 256 color as alot of those older games run at that color depth.

I'll try and explain what happened.
11 pm last night I decided to try dual BOOTING, so I made 2 partitions on my hd (I shrunk the 7 one) and then installed XP on the new one. When this happened upon boot up I got a message saying "Operating System not FOUND". So I figured in splitting it some data was lost.
Today about 11am I decided to delete everything and just install XP, the process seemed to work (least the formatting to NTFS and installing the files did). But when it wen't to load it got STUCK on the "Press any key to boot from cd screen" and if a cd wasnt in it would have a blank screen with the underscore blinking.
I tried formatting again in case something went wrong, and still the same. I then removed the CMOS BATTERY, put it back in, redid all my settings and tried loading..Now it wont even let me boot from cd...:/

Can anyone help, even if you can tell me if something needs replacing it would be nice.You said that you removed the cmos battery, that's mean the setting will back as default.
Check back the boot ORDER and make sure boot from cd rom drive as the 1st priority.


something like this
http://www.poy.net/proxy/bios2.jpg

Hi I am on vacation and I brought along my desktop and a samsong 21 inch TV. I can hook it up to my LAPTOP but not the desktop. Every time I get a message on the tv SCREEN after the windows logo goes away telling me that Mode not supported what can I do to get it to work with that desktop..............thanks ..........two-dogs In display settings, you have to change external monitor (TV) screen resolution to some number, which are supported by TV unit.
Is it LCD, or CRT TV?How do I get to display settings without a monitor Oh and it is an LCD TV Try to start computer in SAFE Mode.Just a quick question...has this TV ever been hooked up to the desktop before ? ?No it worked great with the laptop so I thought it would work the same way with the desktop. I have an MBR1000 and I can pic up my desktop from my laptop. Is there a way to access my desktop's desktop through the laptop...........thanks..........two-dogs

I have twin 320 Gb western Digital Caviar Blue HDD's. I want to use Windows 7's ability to image my 1st HDD which has 2 80 Gb partitions, one with XP Professional and one with Windows 7 Ultimate. The rest of the DRIVE I am using for storage. Will Windows 7 be able to image both OS's and more IMPORTANTLY would it be able to restore one OS independently of the other or is it an all in one shot that would have to restore EVERYTHING on the 1st hard drive?

Also, when I pull up Disk Management and right click on the second HDD I get a menu offering

New Simple Volume
New Spanned Volume
New Striped Volume
New Mirrored Volume

Which option should I choose?This is Microsofts site for Imaging, with the download is an exceptional how to on deployment and options. I RECOMMEND reading it.

Now if this doesn't answer your question, come back and let us know. We will find you the information that you want if that doesn't cover it.

I am wanting to format my HDD, I want to KEEP the drivers of peripherals.
I have a HP
intel 2 cpu

I have a recovery drive; can I save the drivers to a thumb drive and do a recovery to factory then copy them BACK?

What recommendations does anyone have?

Thank you
Yes, that's exactly what you should do. Download the current drivers for all of your hardware and copy them to an off disc medium (usb drive is fine). Then format the drive and install the OS and install the drivers. Be sure that the first driver you install is the chipset driver.maybe I should ask a different way.

Where are the drivers located so I can down load them to a thumb drive?

I am NEEDING to reformat my hdd, would i do that from the recovery command during the boot, or how would I format the drive when the OS is on the recovery or "D" drive?

To reformat your computer with a recovery or "D" drive (like what compaq or HP computers have), you just boot up pc and on booup, it should tell you what key to press to go do the recovery.

Press the BUTTON as indicated and follow the instructions.


You MIGHT download the drivers off the internet from the net. But I'm assuming that your recovery partition should have the drivers already for you (at least, the most current drivers at the time they shipped / you bought the computer.)Thank you, Quote from: atmguy1 on December 11, 2009, 10:39:24 PM

Thank you,

You can also export all your current drivers (or just the ones that work ok) to a folder or a compressed file. After reinstalling Windows you will have everything in one place!

I have a Systemax PC, 3 years old, Intel Pentium 2.66 GHz CPU, 992 MB memory, 250G hard drive, Windows XP Professional, which has worked like a "champ" since I bought it.

About a month ago it started to instantaniously shut down while in use. It happens using the internet, working internally (IE closed) as in the word processor, running my anti-spyware/anti-virus software. Sometimes it happens when I "click" on something with the mouse, sometimes it happens when I am not touching or using the PC.

After the instantaneous shutdown, the unit restarts by itself, and after the bios initial boot, when it says "starting Windows" it will go to a light blue screen, stating that it needs to check the disc drive. It will spend 5-10 minutes doing this disc check, counting up 10% complete, 12% complete, 22% complete, etc., to 100%. It will occasionally show a FILE wich REQUIRED "action", usually ending with the word "trunkaded". When 100% is complete, it will show the disc drive info including total space, space in use, and then finish the reboot. HELP?



It's checking the drive because the system is detecting a dirty bit on the drive. That was caused by the anomalous shutdown of the system. The autocheck process is not connected to your spontaneous shutdown problem, which -- if you don't get a blue screen error -- is probably caused by heat, bad memory, or another hardware component failing. I'd suggest running checks on all hardware COMPONENTS and checking the system temp when it's running.

Also, to "absolutely" (or almost) rule out a software problem you can boot to safe mode and see if the system reboots from there or if everything works well.Thank you for your information. I suspected "heat" as well as these shutdowns seem to occur when the CPU is very busy. I checked all fans in the unit and they all are operating.

Does the fan atop the CPU very in "speed"? I thought I heard the fan speeding up during hot days in the summer, but I'm not absolutely positive. It seems to stay at one slow speed now.

Thanks againDownload and install either Everest or Speedfan and monitor the cpu temp.Also...
Quote

After the instantaneous shutdown, the unit restarts by itself

Hello,

I recently bought 2 Fluorescent case lights for my computer. While installing them, I had an idea; is it possible to make the lights pulse to the music, like lights in a car can?

(Clarification: I'm trying to somehow connect these lights to my motherboard so that every TIME sound is produced by the computer, the lights glow according to how loud/soft that is. So that in effect, it would "pulse" to the beat, if music where played).

Is it possible to make the lights activate due to sound? Is there an add on module of some sort if not?

Thanks,
NNJZ (formerly known as Image)

EDIT:

I've done a bit more searching, and I've found lights with sound modules. But, from I can gather, they light up based on sound detection, causing the lights to brighten from environmental noise. I was interested in a module that would cause the lights to glow due to system noise, so that the lights would pulse to sound generated by the computer even when the speakers are off or muted.
I really dont know of any way bedsides the sound module that you can get with some kitsA LED will turn on at 1.5 volts. I don't think flourescent lights can be dimmed very effectively, either.Quote from: BC_Programmer on December 05, 2009, 12:33:26 PM

I don't think fluorescent lights can be dimmed very effectively, either.

Why you would need or want this was going to be my query...
However...carry on.

I don't think flourescent lights can be dimmed very effectively, either.

Quote from: Darusame on December 05, 2009, 10:43:32 AM

However, there may have been an issue with the thermal compound. I applied the stock compound on perfectly when I put it on, but I did dragged the heatsink a very tiny bit (and quickly dragged it back) by accident when trying to hook it with the retention brackets. That may have messed with the compound a LITTLE, although I could be overly paranoid.

Can't believe I haven't thought to tried that! No BIOs appeared even then, so I figure it's probably the mobo.

I'll send it in on Monday - what's the best way to remove and store the processor while I'm waiting for a non-defective mobo?

Is that being too paranoid?

Hello,

Im building a new computer, and just starting to get to the nitty gritty.

If I buy an Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550 (which has an FSB of 1333 mhz),
an ASUS Striker II Extreme (Which supports 1600/1333MHz FSB ),
and 4 GB of G.SKILL Ripjaws DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000) RAM,

Will the parts all run at max factory standards? (Will the RAM work at speeds normal DDR3 2000 RAM would run at?)

Sorry, not exactly sure how the Motherboard + CPU FSB and memory Speeds are related, but I just want to make sure Im getting 100% out of what I buy, before I buy it.

Thanks,
nnjz (Formerly known as Image).

i think they will all run at the lowest setting of 1333 mhz because i think the RAM, processor and MoBo all have to run at the same speeds, but dont quote me on thatI thought so aswell..

Can anyone confirm this?


ANOTHER Question;

If the CPU FSB is at 1333mhz, the motherboard is 1333/1600mhz, what speed does the RAM run at?like i said before i think they will all run at the same speed, which is the lowest value (1333)Quote from: Image on DECEMBER 11, 2009, 09:27:07 PM

Another Question;

If the CPU FSB is at 1333mhz, the motherboard is 1333/1600mhz, what speed does the RAM run at?

any clue on this one?

i am THINKING about purchasing this card:
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/176938/show_product_reviews

i have a ASUS P5KPL-CM motherboard

any HELP would be GREATFUL

What does optical storage have to do with memory address space?Quote from: BC_Programmer on December 11, 2009, 09:39:15 AM

What does optical storage have to do with memory address space?

truenorth,

I agree. We need a rule that every one over 65 can have 128 bytes.
Give the REST 64 bytes.

fogotten about what?? truenorth

This is a problem that just started today. Almost all the white space on my screen is being pixelated in light blue/aqua. It started with a thin line running down the screen and proceeded to cover almost all white areas in a few minutes (start menu, WEB browser, desktop, etc).

Thing is, I just bought this computer, new, a little over a week ago. I have installed a few things that I've used before (Firefox, VLC, Winrar, iTunes) and my web surfing hasn't been out of the ordinary.

I'd very much appreciate any insight on this problem.

Here are the specs:

Model: HP G71-345CL Notebook, 17" LED

Operating System: Genuine Windows 7 HOME PREMIUM 64-bit

Processor and Memory:
- Intel Pentium Processor T4300 (Dual CORE)
- 2.10GHz processor speed
- 1MB L2 Cache
- 4096MB DDR2 System Memory (2 Dimm) Max supported =4096MB
- Accessible memory slots: 2

Hard Drive and Multimedia Drives:
- 320GB (7200RPM) Hard Drive (SATA)
- LightScribe Blu-Ray ROM with SuperMulti 8X DVD±R/RW with Double Layer Support

Audio, Video, and Graphics:
- Intel Graphics Media Accelerator 4500MHD (shared) with up to 1695MB total available graphics memory
- Integrated digital microphone
- Altec Lansing speakers
- Integrated web cam Take advantage of the warranty.

Hi everyone hope you can help me i have a packard bell IXTREME GOLD MC 1807 desktop and i want to upgrade everything please helpWait, let me get my screwdriver.Allan, was that sarcasm?
Upgrade options are poor, by today's standards for a home system.

The only hope for that PC is the Socket LGA775
Quote

Socket 775, also called Socket T or LGA775, is a Land Grid Array (LGA) socket used for the most recent generations of desktop Intel microprocessors starting from Pentium 4 and up to CORE 2 Quad / Core 2 Extreme families. The socket LGA775 supports Intel CPUs from 1.8 to 3.8 GHZ with Front-Side Bus frequencies ranging from 533 MHz to 1600 MHz. This socket superseded socket 478.

Allan, was that sarcasm?

I took out the whole cooling FAN mechanism & cleaned it (I unscrewed it from the motherboard), & am not sure if I replaced it correctly (this is a Gateway 556 GE if this helps). Please, excuse my lack of computer terms. The underside of the silver metal GRID is made with a groove on 2 sides, but is flat on the other two sides. I assumed these grooves were to accomodate the components on the mother board as there are two rows of them; one that goes up, & one that goes across. Am I correct in this assumption, or are these components supposed to be touching the flat sides? Also, since I have cleaned all the dust out of the fan that I could not get to before; it runs 2 - 3 times faster. Is this normal, or should it be slower? I am worried that I do not have it back correctly, & the fan motor will burn up due to it going so fast. Is there something I should do, or is there a way to slow the fan down? It gears down about 3 times after the initial boot up, but STILL seems to be running faster than USUAL. It used to run QUIET; you hardly knew it was on, but now you can hear it time you walk in the room. The computer runs fine; just concerned about the fan/heatsink mechanism. Thanks, BrandonIs this the CPU fan ? ?

If so i don't think you've done it properly...If you could take a few pictures of how the fan is fitted from many directions that would help.

Just checking but have you cleaned off and re-applied thermal paste when reataching the fan?

I RECENTLY DOWNLOADED Ubisoft's audio patch for Rayman, and it needs my SOUND card's specifications. It needs it's Port, DMA, and IRQ. How would I find this information?Device ManagerQuote from: Allan on DECEMBER 06, 2009, 11:55:54 AM

Device Manager