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I have a wireless connection, that I need WINDOWS too stay CONNECTED too cause, of the DOMAIN. I have it too CONNECT too the SSID even if it's not SIGNALING out too the receiver. I do not remember where you can change what networks if should connect too and edit them

I have Windstream internet the best available speed. I play xbox 1 a lot. For the past year, whenever my COMPUTER (Windows 7) is connected to my wifi EVERYTHING connected to the internet slows down horribly, and causes horrible lag on my game system. I first thought it was the internet, but after working with windstream, we figured out that as long as my laptop is not connected it will run the best. As soon as its connected its barely going enough to run. I tried Microsoft Essentials and it SAYS no viruses. What is going on with my computer.I'd run wireshark and WATCH the PACKETS. You then can see the source and destination IP's as well as some packets might have clear text so you will then know what is going on when that computer connects and cripples your bandwidth. It might be as innocent as Microsoft update downloader being a hog or you COULD have something that is hiding itself from AV's, but a network packet sniffer will point out.

https://www.wireshark.org/

With the IP addresses, you can then perform an IP Lookup with a site such as this one: http://ip-lookup.net/

And figure out what is going on.


Last time I had a client with an issue like this it was that they had wifi enabled on their laptop connected to the same wired/wireless router that was also hard wired to the same laptop and somehow it was creating a network storm looping back on itself.

My NAME is Marco and I am from Toronto. My dad and I are PLANNING to start sales of networking equipment's. We are gonna start with Routers for big firms. We have finalized everything other than the chassis part. We want to make sure that our routers don't heat up much and also provides proper airflow. The whole project is DONE by a precision metal parts providing COMPANY called Bayview Metals in Toronto. They told us to do some research before finalizing. What are your suggestions? What material should be used? What SORT of hardware is going into these routers, we're going to need a lot more information? If it's standard PC stuff or something such as ALIX boards there are plenty of off the shelf cases available.

Most of the clients that I have connected too our one Server, have all DIFFERENT TIMES and dates. I was WONDERING how too set probably a ROLE on the Server too keep all the times and dates the same too the main Server.

Hi There

I am looking into finding all computer names and their ip addresses through wireshark.

Any one know what filter i need to use to do that?
https://www.wireshark.org/docs/wsug_html_chunked/ChAdvNameResolutionSection.html

Due to security reasons.... the hostnames MIGHT be hidden UNLESS part of the same domain. If all systems are on the same domain why not use NET VIEW from COMMAND shell

If systems are not part of the same domain/homegroup/workgroup then the furthest depth of info you might be able to get is just MAC Address and IP the system is communicating on.
This is part of a LAN NETWORK.

Last year our our isp (Time Warner) switched out our existing modem and router for a combined ubee router/modern. Up until now it has enhanced or WiFi NETWORK and worked great.

This year we have been remodeling our (disconnected) garage and I decided to bring an Ethernet cable along with coaxial cable out to it through a conduit thinking I would be able to wire another router to my existing router/modem via Ethernet.

The only problem with my approach is that apparently when another router is connected to the ubee modem, it shuts down it's router ability and only broadcasts a WiFi signal through the external router which isn't helpful because anyone inside the house would lose their WiFi connection. When I called my isp for help they said it was because the WiFi signals would interfere with each other and they suggested getting a WiFi extender instead.

My problem with that response is that the location of the new router doesn't get any signal from the ubee router. Plus I've already run 70 ft of conduit and it would suck to have that work go to waste.

Basically what I'm asking is if there is a way to have EITHER 2 separate WiFi signals (house and garage) or somehow reconfigure the router in the garage to extend the range of our house router.

BTW the extra router I'm TRYING to use is a BELKIN n+ wireless router.

Any suggestions, solutions or ideas you might have would be greatly appreciated!Your ISP people hired janitors for technicians. (No offense toward Janitors.)
Two routers? One at the end of a long cable?
Yes, people do it all the time. Here are the general rules.
First: Both routers must uise DIFFERENT local IP numbers. Otherwise lyou could not change the settings on either if they both were on the same number.
Second: the assignments of CPD must be delegated. This is a little more involved. Simple way is to just have the first router do the DHCP and the second will not do it. Disable DHCP on second router.
Here are local IP numbers I often use.
192.168.0.1 The first router, the one that has the Internet Modem.
192.168.0.2 The second router at the end of the long Ethernet cable.

Other address combinations are suitable. Bother routers can be in the same sub net. That means the the first three number blocsks are the same, only the fourth differs. To set it up the first time you have to plug the second router into a computer and change the local IP number. And turn off the router power for a few seconds to let it initialize again. And don't forget you changed the IP.

Also, you plug the cable into a LAN port. The router is no working as a AP (Access Point) It gives accesses to the LAN but does not assign the addresses.

To set up the second wireless, you the address of the second router, the AP. Use a different channel if you like. That may help improve speed.

Come back here if you need more help.

EDIT: This is how I get the the second router the first time:
http://192.168.0.1
After I change the local IP I must now on use:
http://192.168.0.2

My WiFi has stopped working.

The story so far:

My computer was running very slowly through my VPN, so I disconnected the VPN to get a blue screen crash, and after my WiFi stopped working. I TRIED to use a cable connection, and that didn't work either. Well now I have fixed the cable connection PROBLEM (I've no idea how) but STILL haven't fixed the WiFi issue. My computer doesn't CONNECT to the internet at all when I'm running my VPN.

I recently downloaded Air VPN onto my computer, and my anti-malware gave a warning that I ignored.

I've pressed both of the reset buttons on the back of the router (the inner and outer) and inserted the router manufacturers CD.

I have downloaded a WiFi driver file from my computer manufacturers website, and I have tried to update my adapters in device manager and get the message, "Windows was unable to install your Microsoft Virtual WiFi Miniport Adapter," and below it reads, "Windows could not find driver software for your device."

I have recently been made redundant from a MEDIUM sized eLearning Training Centre. I was a Workskills and basic IT Tutor there. The boss of the company has said we can buy the computers off him at a very REASONABLE price if we can think of something to do with them. There are 220 fairly new PCs, a mix of between months and 3 years old.



Two questions:

1. Could we build these computers into a networked Supercomputer with a presence on the Internet?

2. Any ideas for what we could use the Supercomputer for to make some money?



Any ideas gratefully received. Or if you want to get involved with us we are based in Birmingham in the UK. Thanks.Technically this would be a "cluster" not a "supercomputer" which may help you in your search.

You certainly can do this using software such as Beowulf (for scientific processing) or Hadoop (for data processing). However, the only way I can think of making money from this sort of thing would be if you were to rent space out on the cluster, but then you would be trying to compete with companies such as Amazon Web Services and Microsoft Azure where you could also set up a cluster. If you could figure out pricing to make this competitive then it could certainly work though.

However, there is one tricky part you will need to figure out - Power and cooling. Having 220 machines sitting running at 100% load for hours/days on end is going to pull a lot of power and GENERATE a lot of heat, you would need to be investing in PROPER power distribution and cooling systems - You'd struggle to have this in a standard home/office environment without these modifications.

If you think of the average machine maybe pulling 200w at full CPU load, you are looking at pulling 44kw of power - Imagine running 22 electric room heaters all together, that's the power and heat you'd be dealing with! You can rent space in proper datacenters which would have the power supplies and cooling to be able to handle this but it won't come cheap!Quote

There are 220 fairly new PCs, a mix of between months and 3 years old.

I need a solution to provide 'guest' internet access to people who come in and want to use their laptops on our network. We have an RV082 router which offers port based VLAN. I switched one of our ports (port 4 ) to VLAN2. I then plugged our WAP (Wireless Access Point) into that specific port. I am able to get an IP address ASSIGNED through DHCP on the WAP, however when I connect to the WAP, it says "no internet CONNECTION". How can I resolve this?Do you have a reference or document you are USING?
Here is the general method I use.
SET the AP device to have a different sub net.
Plug the AP in the one of the LAN ports.
Let the AP handle DCHP.
Works for me.Thanks I was able to get it done, however I have another issue. My WAP is on a 172.16.2.0/24 Network and my Production Network is on a 172.16.0.0/24 Network. There is an app that is on the 172.16.0.0/24 network that I need my WAP clients to get to. Is it POSSIBLE with this router?

Hello,

FIRSTLY, I am a noob when it comes to networking and its tricks so please be as simple as possible .

My question is how can I monitor the bandwidth used by each computer connected to a public network(such as a dorm) so I COULD see which computer is using the most bandwidth? Is this possible to do from any computer connected to the same network?

I GOOGLED 'network monitoring tools' and I came up with scrutinizer and PRTG but they seem too complicated plus the IP they are showing when they start up is 127.0.0.1 and I do not know how to use them? are there any simpler tools as I only want to see who is using the most bandwidth?

THanksIf your system admin for the network there are many tools out there to do this at a cost, HOWEVER if its pure curiosity of what others are using on the network, the closest you could probably get would be using the saved dump file from Wireshark with a CUSTOM program that can size up each IP's data use and data contained in the packets sniffed out.

Are you system admin of this network?

So, the short version is that I'm trying to hook up my printer to my Acer Chromebook 15. Chromebooks are apparently notorious for being a bit crap with printing - and I'm pretty USELESS with technology anyway.

Anyway, to accomplish this I need to find a way to hook up my Epson XP200 to my network. I think.

I found these instructions via Epson:

http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/support/supDetail.jsp?UseCookie=yes&infoType=FAQ&oid=201984&prodoid=63094160&foid=229665

The PROBLEM is that they don't give you instruction for the Chrome operating system.

Can anyone help me out here?

Thanks in advance,

Tom Leventhall

Does anyone know how I'd Do you have another computer handy running Windows that can act as a print server? If so this might help here for connecting a classic printer: https://support.google.com/chrome/answer/1069693?hl=en Short answer. It will not work.

Long answer. Use a cloud print service.

Quote

Printing with the Acer Chromebook. Chromebooks do not support printing from local printers via USB port. To print from your Chromebooks, you need to connect to the Google Cloud Print service and share a printer: Download and install Google Chrome to the computer where the printer is connected.

Set Up a Classic Network-Attached Printer
LAUNCH Google Chrome on the computer attached to the same network as the printer. ...
Click the Menu button.
GO to Settings.
Select Show Advanced Settings from the bottom of the screen.
Click the “Sign in to Google Print” button. ...
Tap Add Printer(s) The message will change instantly.

Hey,
I'm not familiar with internet/networking; in fact I have little to NONE KNOWLEDGE on it.
I've got a reasonably cheap modem and a decent computer(MacBookPro 13-inch).
I've ALWAYS wondered what affects my internet's speed, performance etc...
Is it the modem that affects this the most? Or does the quality of the laptop affects the internet too? Or is there other factors?
Like I said, I'm quite a newbie with internet/networks.
Thanks. GENERALLY the thing that affects it the most is stuff out with your control - The performance of your ISP's systems, any traffic management put in place by your ISP, the quality and length of line from you to your ISP (be it a coax cable or telephone line) the type of cable used (coax, copper twisted pair or fibre optic). A modem can cause issues but it would have to be extremely outdated or faulty for this to be the case. In most situations the network connection between your computer and the modem is going to be faster than your internet connection so this is rarely the issue.I see...thanks for the reply.
So to improve my internet experience, would I basically choose ISPs that have high performance?
Thanks. They all advertise as "high speed, high performance or fast internet" etc. But you will want to check the upload and download speeds that they guarantee. For example you can get "High Speed" ( marketing term but no wheres near true high speed ) Internet from Satellite and its far slower than Cable Broadband. Both claim to be high speed yet the Cable Broadband is truly generally 10x or more faster due to greater bandwidth. Havent looked but im sure there might even be some High Speed Dial Up ISPs still lingering around. Thank goodness I was able to leave dial up back in 2005 when broadband finally came to my area since DSL wasnt available because old copper phone lines in area and i live away from a major city etc.


Off interest...
Quote

As part of its 2015 Broadband Progress Report, the Federal Communications Commission has voted to change the definition of broadband by raising the minimum download speeds needed from 4Mbps to 25Mbps, and the minimum upload speed from 1Mbps to 3Mbps, which effectively triples the number of US households without broadband access. Currently, 6.3 PERCENT of US households don’t have access to broadband under the previous 4Mpbs/1Mbps threshold, while another 13.1 percent don't have access to broadband under the new 25Mbps downstream threshold.
FCC Commissioner Tom Wheeler was vehement in his support for the new broadband standard. "When 80 percent of Americans can access 25-3, that's a standard. We have a problem that 20 percent can't. We have a responsibility to that 20 percent," Commissioner Wheeler said.

I am trying to connect my pc desktop (win vista) to my pc laptop wireless ( win 7 starter) using a crossover CABLE. I tried connecting the wire, restarting, and disconnecting and shut down. I then read instructions to set ip addresses. It did not always ping correctly. Using 192.168.13.100 and 192.168.13.101, it would ping in one direction, the other failed. I tried 192.168.2.2, and 192.168.2.1,with preferred dns settings and it would ping in the other direction but not both. At one time I looked in Network on 1st pc and it showed a different icon, clicked on it and it quickly disappeared and never reappeared. For the most part neither pc showed up in the others treeHello,
O
this is a test.
Many volunteers are ready to help you. However, there is some confusion with INFORMATION you gave in your post. It is possible to connect two computers together with a crossover cable. However, this does not involve the use of wireless. If you have a wireless router, you must use the wireless router to provide connectivity between your computers.
This is the way it would normally be done. Most computers should already have some way to get access to the Internet. This would be through a router that is connected to some external device that gives you connection and the Internet. Next, you have to establish a local area network. The local area network have to be set on each computer.
You must set up a network connection on both computers. Even though you already have Internet connection, that does not define the local area connection. The local area connection must have a workgroup name and a name for each computer. Both computers should use the same network name, but each one has its own specific name to identify that computer.
You might call your Vista omputer V isata-1 and the Windows 7 computer could be called Win-7. Both computers should use the same workgroup name. You can use the name MSHOME as the name of the network.

It may be necessary to reset both computers after assigning the workgroup name and the individual names of the computers. It may take a minute or two for the computers to find each other. This is normal the first time.
After a while, you should be able to go into network places and see both computers. Of course, you must have file and print sharing already enables. A common practice is to share a folder such as the one called public. You want to set up your system so that either computer can read and write shared files.
Use of a crossover cable is seldom RECOMMENDED, except for unusual circumstances where you're not able to establish a network on a computer. The use of a crossover cable is documented elsewhere. If you already have a wireless router, there is no need to use a crossover cable to connect two computers. In fact, use of a wireless router allows you to connect many devices other than computers. For example, a smart phone or a tablet can also connect wirelessly and in some circumstances even trade files with the PC. And even if not, there are programs and applications that do allow you to transfer files between tablets and PCs either through the local area network or using a server on the Internet.
I hope this information if you some idea of what you want to do.
I scanned your response. My purpose is not for networking via the internet. My purpose "was" to transfer my music files from one machine to the other. My PROBLEM was that I had too many connections going on in my ncpa.cpl on wireless. So disabled the wireless, used the LAn and just used crossover cable, disabled firewall on both pcs, also ENABLE file sharing and print sharing, and used 192.168.1.5 and .6 on the laptop worked like a charm...thanks for your response though.Glad you got it to work.
BTW: On newer network cards a crossover is not always needed.

An Ethernet crossover cable is a type of Ethernet cable used to connect computing devices together directly. It is most often used to connect two devices of the same type: e.g. two computers (via network interface controller) or two switches to each other.

Connect two computers using a crossover cable

I have two desktops, both HP Pavillions using Windows 7, connected to my router by powerline network adapters (devolo 1200). This has been working fine for almost two years, but in the last couple months, internet access has been erratic. The Windows diagnostic tool shows that I am connected to the router, but the router to internet connection is broken. Usually the error message is that the IP address is invalid, but Windows is unable to fix it.

But the Windows diagnosis seems to be wrong: at the same time I'm having this problem, I'm able to connect through my router using any of a number of wireless devices - laptop, telephone, etc. I have also had the router checked, and even replaced, by my service provider, and they also can't find a problem with the signal to my house. So I'm left thinking the problem must be with the powerline network.

Before I decide whether to replace the powerline adapters or switch to a wifi network, I wanted to ask a few questions:
Could there be another cause other than the powerline adapters for this problem? How could I find it?
Are there inherent problems with this type of network, ie, is this problem likely to recur?
Are wireless adapters universally compatible, ie, if I change routers will I need to change adapters?

Thanks in advance for any insight you can offer.
Depending on wireless signal strength, you could go with a low cost USB Wireless Adapter, or a BETTER internal PCIe slot type adapter with an antenna on it for better range.

The powerline network bridges I have never had any great luck with.

Since you already have wifi, I'd convert the desktops to be wifi, however take a wireless device to the locations that the desktops are in first to verify that the wireless is strong enough in the locations where the desktops are so you know they could be switched over to wifi as a $30 or less solution if you have 2 bars or stronger signal strength at the locations. If you only have 1 bar strength or comes and goes, then you will want to either relocate the computer(s) or router, or go with replacing the powerline network bridges.

Here are some adapters I have gotten that work OK and are cheap. I USED one of these to make an old dell laptop have wireless that never came with wireless. It worked on USB 1.1 which I was surprised with Windows XP on a PENTIUM 3 CPU http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G2179560&cm_re=usb_nic-_-33-114-110-_-Product
Thanks for this. I'll look into the wifi option. It is hard to tell if the power line adapters are working as they should.
But here is an peppermint you cloud try.

Get two computers and the two power line plugs together in one room.
Connect the two computers using the power line adapters. At close range it should be perfect. Then you do some test to see how reliable of a connection you can get. If it is not excellent, at least one of the power line plugs has gone mostly bad.

Some people hate Power Line Network L devices. For a different reason.
http://www.arrl.org/bpl-and-smart-grid-archives

wifi i feel is the best option for many reasons. One reason is that it limits the power surge path to only the power supply vs jumping a communication circuit and direct path up the ETHERNET which can take out the computer if there is no ethernet network suppression. On wireless the computers would be better protected from lightning strikes or power surges from back flowing up the ethernet lan connection.I recently switched from using wifi on my laptop to using some Netgear powerline adapters. The difference was pretty dramatic. I have a 75Mbps internet connection coming into my router but with wifi, I could only obtain 15Mbps downloads. With the powerline adapters, I can get 66Mbps download speeds. Copying files across the network from one computer to another is also about 5X faster.

As for the OPs issue, it may be that one of the adapters has failed. In order to determine which failed, it would require another adapter and trying the new one with an existing adapter one at a time to see if either current adapters works well with the new one. Might be simpler to buy new adapters.

On the Netgear adapters, there is an LED that shows approximately how good the link is between the adapters. LED is off for no link, Red for a marginal link, Amber for better and Green for best. When I first installed the adapter in a wall socket, I got an Amber link but moving the adapter to a different socket gave me a green link. Do your adapters have similar indication of link quality? Regardless, have you tried different wall sockets to see if things work better?

I recently got a wii u and it wouldnt connect to the Internet so yada yada yada I type in 192.168.0.1 and I logged in using my motorola surfboard's username and password and I start mucking around with the mac address. I typed in my wii u's mac address and allowed it and within a few seconds I lost Internet connection. Havent been able to get it back. Please helpSounds like you've configured a whitelist to only ALLOW the Wii U to connect to the modem. I'm guessing this SURFboard is a model that has both modem and router functionality. You'll likely need to reset the router to factory settings. How you do that depends on the particular model. If it is a Modem/Router combo it might have a recessed factory reset button on it, likely requiring a paperclip or something similar to actually press.

Another possibility could be to use the Wii U Web Browser and browse to the router's IP address, however I doubt the connection ISSUES you initially EXPERIENCED were related to the settings you CHANGED so wouldn't expect it to be able to connect.

I LOOKED on the router yesterday and couldn't find a reset button at all. I didnt look for anything small though so ill look later today. I dont think there is one though. I tried reseting it to factory settings over the computer but now I dont got WiFi to log into my router stuff again to do that.

I've been TRYING everything to make it happen, but i just can't start either if them, tungle and HAMACHI has errors with the network, and teamspeak refuses to connect to any SERVER, i am pretty sure there problems are related to each other, i tried literally everything one by one, and i have no idea what could the problem possibly be, if anyone WANTS a challenge, well you are welcome to solve this

My modem is ZyXEL P-660HN-T1A, ADSL2+ with the latest firmware update installed.

When scanning my public IP from the outside using Nmap I found out that I have port 1720/TCP open. According Nmap service on it is H.323/Q.931. Researching uses of this port also brings up Microsoft Netmeeting.

Behind to modem/router I don't have anything that would have port 1720 port open. So it must be the router/modem device that is listening on that port.

I have researched my modem settings and the is nothing about this port being open. No port forwarding. All remote management from the WAN disabled. Telnet is disabled for both LAN and WAN.

Originally ACCESSING http://my_public_ip:1720 opened html page. The port also allows telnet connections from the internet.

Quote

Connected to <my ip>
Escape character is '^]'
<giving any input>
Connection closed by foreign host.

This setting blocks all unsolicited attempts to connect to your computer. Use this setting when you need maximum protection for your computer, such as when you connect to a public network in a hotel or airport, or when a computer worm is spreading over the Internet. With this setting, you aren't notified when Windows Firewall blocks programs, and programs in the list of allowed programs are ignored.

This port could be open for a few reasons. Do you have UPNP enabled on the router portion? If so, that means any capable device/computer can punch holes from your network to the outside world. This port is also left open by default by several ISPs so they can remote into the modem/router for maintenance and customer support. Port 1720 is also used by Voice Over IP. So if you have that service from your ISP, this could be the reason it is open as well.

Glad you found the problem.
More often the issue is trying to open a port. However, there are other posts elsewhere that describe the issue your have with the Zyxel modem.
However, it might not be the fault of Zyxel.From Google: Port 1720
Purpose: H.323 (Microsoft NetMeeting) call setup protocol. Description: Port 1720 is used by the H.323 teleconferencing protocol (most commonly encountered in Microsoft NetMeeting) during call setup negotiation.

Hey folks I recently brought a netgear wna3100 n300 WIFI USB because I want my PC in the living room and don't want to run a cable from the router, since switching to the dongle I lose connection and only revive roughly 1mb/s download SPEED, I'm on windows 10, and I got the driver from the netgear site. IM iust was wondering what is causing the issues, my download speed for other wireless devices is around 50mb/s

Netis WF2412 N150 Wireless Router provides a reliable 150Mbps Wireless N speed, coverage and performance for online gaming, video streaming, VoIP and surfing the Internet. Besides it being a Home Router the WF2412 provides various wireless solutions AP, WDS, AP+WDS, Repeater and Client to expand your wireless network.

The WF2412 will allow you to connect your wireless devices to your network or your high speed Internet within seconds by using the WPS Button. You can now have multiple networks for your guest when using the WF2412. The WF2412 supports Wireless Internet Service Providers "WISP" and with its 2 5dBi antennas the WF2412 will provide superior wireless coverage by allowing you to enjoy the wireless freedom around your home.

Here is the cheap hardware Im looking at

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA10V3634440

I am trying to set up a better wireless connection between my home and my barn. I have a 2004 year make model Linksys Access Point in attic of my home that is broadcasting Wireless B and in the barn I get 1 or 2 bars strength and occasionally packet loss.

Decided that I think I should get new hardware and a matched pair of hardware to act as a wireless bridge configuration so that wired network devices in the loft of the barn can communicate all over a wireless bridge to the homes wireless network.

Budget is $100 so I could spend more if needed. I saw these and figured that if they work, that might be a cheap solution.

But Repeater and Client is confusing as for I am expecting to see Range Booster or Repeater and Bridge vs client. So what is client if its not a bridge?Me too.
Sad to say, it seems the confusion is deliberate.
Repeater should mean repeater. But that is not the case.

A Wireless Router is an Access Point.
But not any Access Point is a Router

A Client is a beneficiary, the system serves him. The client does not benefit OTHERS. Often the Client is the end-user device.

However, you can flip router in being a client. Sometimes you do that to create a bridge whee you can not run an Ethernet cable between two points. In some jargon this kind of Bridge they want to call a repeater.

Here is what most of us think a repeater should be. It would be something the overcomes the power limit of a wireless communication . It ought to be a single unit that does not require an Ethernet cable. It ought to be able to gather some packets and then repeat them. This would allow a distance client to get the repeated data.This kind of repeater zaps the bandwidth in half.

What I have written is dated. What is needed is clear, concise definitions fro the manufactures of what a device really does.

Thee is a new thing called 802.11ax and the implication is that to get the full benefit, most or all of your devices have to comply.


What is 802.11ax WiFi
Quote

The easiest way to think of 802.11ax is to start with 802.11ac — which allows for up to four different spatial streams (MIMO) — and then to massively increase the spectral efficiency (and thus max throughput) of each stream. Like its predecessor, 802.11ax operates in the 5GHz band, where there’s a lot more space for wide (80MHz and 160MHz) channels.

A wireless bridge connects two LAN segments with a wireless link. The two segments are in the same subnet and look like two ethernet switches CONNECTED by a cable to all computers on the subnet. Since the computers are on the same subnet, BROADCASTS reach all machines. DHCP clients in one segment can get their addresses from a DHCP server in the other segment.

Use a wireless bridge to transparently connect computers in one room to computers in a different room when you cannot—or don't want to—run an ethernet cable between the two rooms.

A standard wireless bridge (client bridge) connects wired clients to a secondary router as if they were connected to your main router with a cable. Secondary clients share the bandwidth of a wireless connection back to your main router. Of course, you can still connect clients to your main router using either a cable connection or a wireless connection.

The limitation with standard bridging is that it only allows wired clients to connect to your secondary router. Wireless clients cannot connect to your secondary router configured as a standard bridge. Repeater bridge allows wireless AND wired clients to connect to a the repeater bridge router, and through that device wirelessly to a primary router. You can still use this mode if you only need to bridge wired clients; the extra wireless repeater capability COMES along for free however you are not required to use it.

Turned on my COMPUTER windows 10 this morning and can't connect to my router which is my main concern, my network card does not seem to be able to notice the wi-fi connections are it.



Also volume is not working on my computer "The Audio Service is not running"

What does device manager show for devices... any ! yellow or red warnings or messages

What make/model computer?Let's HOPE you restarted it to check if that helped. MAY want to check restore POINTS if one is recent.The poster came into chat and can't reply...may have been mistaken for a spammer.device manager says my wireless adapter is working properly

It a Samsung all in one pc dp700a3d

Wireless Adapter is a Qualcomm Atheros AR946x

Hello computer gurus I SEEK help of the pc gods
My PROBLEM is stated above
I tried the following with no success : restarting modem/router, clean install of Windows, disable ipv6 , and much more

Hope you guys can help me peace What is the exact error MESSAGE.?
What program gives the message?
Do any other devices work on the Network?
I,m currently connected with my phone trough WIFI
The message comes from Windows troubleshooting
It says "Local area connection" doesn't have a valid IP configuration

I am not sure why, but, for some reason when I connect a STRAIGHT patch cable from my Router too a switch, I loose my Internet connection. However, when I connect the cable directly, no ISSUE. I need too connect it too a switch so that I can access a NAS DriveHave you tried a crossover cable?
Please identify:
Router type and model.
Switch type and model.
NAS type an model. (Network Attached Storage.)**

Are all devices above Plug and Paly?
What documents are you using as your guide?

** Network-attached storage (NAS) is a file-level computer data storage server connected to a computer network providing data access to a heterogeneous group of clients. NAS is specialized for serving FILES either by its hardware, software, or configuration.
Quote from: Geek-9pm on October 02, 2015, 03:48:26 PM

Please identify:
Router type and model.
Switch type and model.
NAS type an model. (Network Attached Storage.)**

Are all devices above Plug and Paly?
What documents are you using as your guide?

** Network-attached storage (NAS) is a file-level computer data storage server connected to a computer network providing data access to a heterogeneous group of clients. NAS is specialized for serving files either by its hardware, software, or configuration.

Setting up a home network allow users to share files, share printers, share broadband Internet access, play network GAMES and much more. Before setting up your own network, the network as well as what you want for the network to accomplish must be established.

Was given a Gateway Solo 2500 with Win 95.....has Xircom Credit Card MODEM 56T.....except we have DSL and a wireless router.....have one system WIRED into router....the one I am using now.....Dell Vostro 200.....Is there a pcimia card to WIRE the Gateway direct to the wireless router? If so where can I find one that is compatible with Win 95? And what is it called.....never had a laptop before....and I realize this one is older and limited functionality but daughters system FROZE up and thought it would be suitable until CHRISTMAS.....PC Card controller: TI-1220 with Zoomed Video support in the bottom slot only and 32-bit Cardbus support; on the PCI bus
http://support.gateway.com/s/Mobile/Solo_Series/P2500/p250044.shtml
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833156105

i TAKE a ASSINGMENT name is "siagnificane of DATA comminication" and "online information services" its role, APPLICATION, benifits please send me this assingment if any one know i m very in trouble
thanxWe can't help with your homework.

Hi all I am in a KOA camp and thy have a crappy signal from there wifi, unless you get real close to the signal. What I want is to get the best wifi adapter (usb cheap) to pick up a stronger signal, so what should I get.........thanks...........two-dogs http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rlz=1B3GGGL_enUS369US309&q=wifi+repeater&aq=f&aqi=g10&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=Thanks Allen but what I want is I usb adapter not a repeater. I have a cradlelpoint 1000 can I use that to pick up a wifi signal? I don't think there's much you can do on your end other than inserting a repeater between you and the originating signal.So I can't use my MBR1000 to pick up a wifi signal?Sorry, I'm not familiar with that router and whether or not it will help you. Perhaps someone who is will be along soon.Quote from: two-dogs on September 23, 2010, 05:42:04 AM

What I want is to get the best wifi adapter (usb cheap) to pick up a stronger signal

Thanks BC_Programmer for your input and I need to ask one more question. I wrote in my post that I have a MBR1000 Cradlepoint router, now will my router pick up the wifi signal from the camp site, or does it have that capability? I was looking to buy a Netgear WNDA 3100 rangemax wireless n network adapter but you are saying that I would just be wasting my money is that right.........thanks.......two-dogs

WHEN I TRIED TO DOWNLOAD SOMETHING IT START TO DOWNLOADING BUT IT SAY SORT OF "NO RESUME CAPACITY" THATS WHY WHEN NETWORK
INTRRUPT HAVE TO START FROM BEGINING....... M USING IDM ALSO DAM.......BUT SOME SITE SUPPORT RESUME CAPACITY AND SOME NOT.
WHY THIS IS HAPPENING ?....... HOW CAN I OVER COME THIS PROBLEM ....PLZZZZZ SUGGESTIs there a Caps Lock key on your KEYBOARD? Get a resuming download app such as Getright.

I have a modem coming into my HOUSE, from which runs a cable up to my upstairs. I used this cable to connect to a Netgear 4 Port Dual Speed Hub. From the hub, I ran a wire to my COMPUTER, a laptop and my Wii. The computer and laptop can connect to the internet just fine with default settings. But the Wii doesn't connect. The lights on the Hub also don't light up when connected and I've TRIED using different wires and I know they are all good. I have also used the cable not going through the hub to connect to the Wii and it works fine. Any help or ideas? Thanks!A HUB will not usually work when sharing a connection from a regular modem. You NEED a ROUTER, these are usually wireless but sometimes come wired only which I imagine is what you want.Like cameron said you're going to need to purchase a router to share your Internet connection. With the router you'd plug your main Internet line into the WAN port, and then each device you wish to share to the other PORTS. Just a tip the Wii has WiFi, so purchase a WiFi router and you will not have to worry about wires.

I would like to create a VPN tunnel to my home network. I have tried to use the connection wizard that comes with window but I keep getting error 800. I am assuming this is because I have an overlapping dynamic IP not a static IP. Please correct me if I am wrong. I am wondering if any third party software can help me with this problem. I have checked my router setting for VPN and it is set to allow any incoming connection. I can provide more info if needed.

ThanksI took some time read a previous post about a program called Hamachi. Any tips for using this, or is ti pretty self explanatory. Install it and let er rip?
Hamachi is a pretty good tool for creating personal VPN's. The use of it is pretty self explanatory. Install it, create a group, and connect all machines to it.

My personal preference for VPN's, though, is using SSH. It allows you to forward ports through the tunnel, as well as give you access to all resources LOCATED on your home network.

For instance: "ssh [emailprotected] -L 8080:myip.com:80" would forward my local port 8080 over the SSH tunnel to the server on port 80. Or, you can use "ssh [emailprotected] -D 8080 myip.com" would create a SOCKS proxy on local port 8080 that tunnels over SSH to my home network.

Another way to do it is to take advantage of the PPTP or IPSec VPN options in your router. Some support it OTHERS don't.

Yet another option is to create your own OpenVPN server and use that.

Many ways to GO about this, just depends on what exactly you're trying to do.I installed the program on three computers. I can only seem to access the shared folders on the nodes. I have a windows 2008 virtual server on my network that is pretty much fully operational. I am still working as a workgroup and do not use active directory yet, I am still trying to familiarize myself with those tools. I dont know what my options are using that for a VPN server.

I have not been able to take full control of any computer yet. Actually I got back to work to find that in cannot ping or access anything.This EXPLAINS how to setup an OpenSSH server on a Windows machine. In order to access it from outside your LAN you'll have to forward the port specified by the servers configuration to that servers IP (default 22).

Hello, I'm new to the forum and have been struggling with what I hope is a simple networking issue for quite some time. I'm finally coming to the experts for some backup! I'm pretty much a novice when it comes to networking as well so please bare with me. Here is the issue:

We have a small network of computers running VARIOUS OS, XP, WINDOWS 2000, Windows 7 which all connect to a server running Windows Server 2000. All computers connect to the server flawlessly will full permissions to copy edit print save, etc. EXCEPT for the desktops running Windows 7.

The issue we experience with Windows 7 are two-fold when it comes down to it:

1. We can't open Office documents (we all run Office 2010) unless we open them with Open Office.

2. Can't copy any file from the server to our desktop (we can open pdfs and images and save them to our desktop however!)

I've poured through the forum and online for solutions and have tried quite a few things: taking ownership of the folders/files, making sure full permissions have been granted on the server for my specific adminsitrator user account, etc. all with the same result.

It's a weird thing to me. I can see the files on the server, the server can see my files. All other paths talk fine to each other it's only between the Windows 7 and the Windows Server 2000. Sorry for the long POST, ANY help would be greatly appreciated. THANKS.

This MIGHT be worth a try:
http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/en/details.aspx?FamilyID=94aeee3b-955d-47e1-9f8f-c07e21ec268f&displaylang=en
OR
http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;en-us;281625I just can't win lol.

I tried the first suggestion you gave me and it does not follow the instruction.

Instead of asking me about active x it ASKS me to install this on all computers?

When it rain it pours !Sorry not all computers it asks me to install this for all users.I tried the alternate METHOD and copied it to a flash drive, for obvious reasons, then tried it on the tower and the tower coudl not validate the code that was given me on a working computer ?Now when I tried to stop and restsart the telephony suggestion in the first link you gave me it times out and says it can't. So i left it paused and tried to create a connection and it still did not work.

No double file either.I found two other rasapi files , renamed them .old and rebooted and tried again, to no avail.

Tried different rj45's, HELP ! lolI GOT IT !

I uninstalled the hardware and reinstalled it and now have internet access!

THANKS for all teh help.

Now I have another issuse with a gateway, but where to post it. lol

Hi all,

I recently installed Windows 7 home premium 64BIT to my computer but now my internet is unreliable, it works fine for a minute or two then GOES really SLOW then shuts off all together. Its connected through a wireless dongle which has the correct drivers. I have tried Windows troubleshooter and it says there isn't a problem. My other computer works fine through the same wireless router. Been trying for hours and still no joy! Sorry if i haven't worded this very well!!

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

THANK you!Could be a faulty wireless adapter, have you tried borrowing one to check the difference? What computer model/brand are you using and wifi adapter do you refer to?

I'm not sure if I'm posting this in the right section - apologies if so.
I have 2 Windows XP Service Pack 3 pc's, after being on for a few hours (does not matter if the pc is idle or being USED) the network disappears. When I go to Network Connections from Control Panel its empty. After a restart then all the connections come back and the pc connects to the network again.

I have checked that all the drivers are installed correctly and I have done a virus scan.
I have got no idea what is causing this.

Any ideas\advice???

Thanks so much!Wireless or Wired CONNECTION?
Is this your network or are you riding on someone elses (if wifi)?
If its your connection wifi or wired via Cat5 to computers does the router or modem show a connection loss with the internet or are they showing connectivity handshake LED lit green?Its a wired network.
I think I've solved the PROBLEM. The Workstation service was STOPPING, I set it to manual and started it again and the problem SEEMS to have stopped. It has not dropped its network for 3 days - vs at least twice a day.

Thanks.

I've found one on-line site with a lot of good information, but the material seems to be about TEN years old. It's a good starting point. I'm sure there's other sites out there.

Would anyone care to RECOMMEND sites or books which would help a person prepare for the Network + Certification, or perhaps relate some of the steps you took toward the certification?

Thank You.I'd get a most recent Comptia book w/CD or DVD on it. I haven't gone for Network+ and have gone for A+ thru a provider that gives a crash course with weekend test. The company I worked for paid for this as well as some Microsoft CERTIFICATIONS. Wasn't Cheap! If you are preparing to study on your own and then go to a testing center to test, I'd get the most recent books available, and Comptia was the best I found when going for A+, so I can only assume that they are best for Network+ . All my books are now out of date from 2003 and I suppose I should pick up a new copy as well to test myself and see how I do.

I enjoyed the books that came with CD's with testing software. One of them was adaptive to really work your brain.

Here is link to modern book 2012 study guide: http://www.amazon.com/CompTIA-Network-Study-Guide-N10-005/dp/1118137558Thank you, Dave, for the information and the response. I'd really like to get a full degree, but the PROSPECT, at this point, of student loan debt terrifies me. I still have some searching to do, but you've given me a good START.

FYI This is not a mouse hardware issue.

PROBLEM Description:
Multiple Users on our domain are complaining that after they logout or switch to a new user the mouse becomes disabled and the mouse arrow centers in the middle of the screen. They then must either restart the machine using the power button or by unplugging and then replugging in the mouse. The keyboard does not become disabled.
Mouse Specific Problem = No. We checked the mouse in question. We take the mouse to a new machine on the domain, but not on the same subnet and test the process and cannot reproduce. We have used both ball and optical mice on this system and the problem reproduces.
Mouse Detection Error = No. Mouse is detected in device manager and no errors or unknowns reported.
Port Specific Problem = No. We checked ports to see if the error produces itself when plugged in other USB ports. The error does reproduce.
PC Specific Problem = No. We physically took the machine in question with monitor, keyboard, mouse, and cables back to our central location on a different subnet. Using the users login and password we cannot reproduce the problem. After giving the user a new machine with a new image the problem reproduces itself at the location. Problem is also occurring independent of the Dell model used.
User specific Problem = No. Many users on the same subnet are experiencing the problem, yet not all users experiencing the problem or at least are not reporting the problem.
Network-wide Problem=No. Most SUBNETS on the domain are not experiencing the problem. Problem is currently isolated to two different subnets in two separate geographic locations.
Group Policy Problem = Do not believe so. We have delved into our group policies line by line to see if there were any associated keys or policies that may be affecting the mouse or power to the USB. We have not found any policy pointing to this.
Steps to reproduce:
1.Computer boots and comes to Network Logon.
2.User Pressed CTRL-ALT-DEL and enters logon information and hits enter.
3.System loads users profile with folder redirection enabled.
4.User logs off or switches user.
5.Monitor blanks and then comes to Network logon.
6.User Presses CTRL-ALT-DEL.

Mouse arrow is now centered at logon screen and does not move.

Possible Causes:We believe that there must be some issue in either power management configuration or with the HIDUSB.sys driver causing the issue. Since the issue is only located on certain subnets we thought that a group policy that is being distributed may be the issue, but since it is not affecting everyone on the subnet we are leery to take the local server down or redo all of our group policies and containers yet. Also if the COMPUTERS are taken out of the OU the problem

Recent Attempts to FixWe have attempted all the fixes suggested in the articles http://windows7themes.net/mouse-not-working-after-hibernation.html, http://support.microsoft.com/kb/930091, http://www.prevx.com/blog/140/Black-Screen-woes-could-affect-millions-on-Windows--Vista-and-XP.html , and http://www.vistaheads.com/forums/microsoft-public-fr-windows-vista-general/460788-vista-usb-mouse-freezes-fix-windows-7-a.html, yet the problem still persists.
We have a checked EVENT viewer and checked for errors, ran a logman trace on the USB, and ran Perfomance Analyzer with rebootcycle traces. We cannot find anything that points to the issue.
Is there a USB trace that can be performed using xbootmgr,logman or some other utlitity that can capture what is occuring only after a domain user logs off and a new/same user logs back in? Or does anyone have any other suggestions?
Have all these systems been built from the same image, such as Ghost or RIS etc to where they all could have inherritted a problem with a build?

I had a problem a while back with multiple workstations and in the end found out that the image had a flaw with USB devices where External Drives and devices would go out to lunch. They would be connected physically but the systems wouldnt see them there. Unplugging the devices and plugging them back in caused these devices to become detected and work again. I created a new image from clean build and pushed that image out to workstations and the problem was solved. This was found when taking a stab at this where all other possibilities of what it could be failed. The last thing in common between all systems was that they all were built from the same image. Created new image, and then imaged the systems off of that and the problem was solved. Nothing on Google pointed to a cause/solution like this with a bad image.

This problem was related to the 10 MINUTE count down to screen saver which would lock the computer. Upon unlocking by keyboard, the mouse and all other USB devices would lose connectivity. We couldnt just disable the screensaver with timed lock, because we couldnt chance a computer idle with say a customer etc sneaking in and snooping away at a work station. As funny as it may sound we actually had a customer one day at the cooperative food store make themselves at home behind service desk to surf the web looking for a recipe for a dinner. This person thought I guess that since they were a member with shares that they were entitled to corportate network access.

I'm trying to use Remote Desktop between two LAPTOPS, and I can't connect them... I've tried the cmd "net view" on both, and they're both only finding themselves, despite there being about 5 other computers in the house. Any ideas?What OS?
Have you added Remote Desktop to Firewall Exception List or tried with firewalls off to see if you can connect without firewalls to point the finger at firewall setting? Both also have to be same domain such as workgroup.

Also just a FYI on RDP... when you connect to one from the other, the user on the other is LOCKED out of the computer while you are connected. If you want to control either laptop remotely without locking a session in the process, I'd check into RealVNC.

Here is link on setting it up if your Windows 7 and still want RDP vs VNC: http://www.addictivetips.com/windows-tips/using-remote-desktop-connection-in-windows-7/I want to access a Windows 7 computer from a Vista one. I've turned firewalls off on both... How do I go about getting on the same domain? I don't fully UNDERSTAND what that means, but they're both on my home network, so I assume it should work :/ Thanks Also, I'm trying to use the laptop's IP address to FIND it, 192.168.1.8 - anything I did wrong there? I assume it's more in this Workgroup thing

Hello everyone,

I am connected to a wireless network with approx 90 MB speed. The problem with my connection is that it is 'stuttering' and its speed is unstable.

For example, Internet download manager is known for its super fast downloading when it opens up its channels and STARTS downloading; on my end, however, IDM tries to maximize its downloading speed but it never manages to maintain it. In other words, a download would start at 70 KB/s then jumps 'briefly' to 120 KB/s and then returns to 70 KB/s again and up to 120 again..etc. I have tested a download from softpedia so this means it is not a 'host' bandwidth limit.

What made me also sure that a problem does exist is Teknogods MW3 PC game. If I browse for a server(any server), its ping would appear as 75 at first but when I click refresh, the same server's ping would jump to 300 even though I have nothing eating my bandwidth in the background. Also, If I join any server, the game-play is 'always' choppy and LAGGING because of the connection's inability to update as fast as it should be.


I have tried turning off windows FIREWALL but it did not work and I have no anti-virus or firewall progs running in the background. I also a wireless mouse that I disconnected but it did not actually help. What could be the cause of this and how can I check if there is something that is limiting my bandwidth?

P.S: I am connecting through a hotel's wireless network so any suggesstions about accessing their routers is impossible


System Specs:

- Brand: Casper notebook

- Intel Core i5-3210M CPU 2.50GH
- Memory 8GB RAM
- Nvidia Geforce GT630 620MB up to 1 GB
- Realtel RTL8188CE wireless LAN 802.11n PCI-E NIC
- Realtek High Definition Audio
- Win 7 Home Basic 64-bitIf you are connecting through a hotel's wireless network, you are sharing the hotel's connection bandwidth with every other connected user in the hotel. I am not surprised that you get variable speeds. Do you live in the hotel?
Quote from: Salmon Trout on OCTOBER 14, 2012, 07:25:22 AM

If you are connecting through a hotel's wireless network, you are sharing the hotel's connection bandwidth with every other connected user in the hotel. I am not surprised that you get variable speeds. Do you live in the hotel?

I reinstalled the Atheros driver and got nothing... Any other ideas? :/Remove or uninstall the Toshiba WPS Library and download the Atheros driver here : http://uk.computers.toshiba-europe.com/innovation/download_drivers_bios.jsp?service=UK download by a working computer and enter the correct model/series and OS and choose Atheros wireless LAN driver version - 7.7.0.288.0. Use a flash drive to save and copy to your Toshiba laptop.
1. Uninstall the current wireless driver by DEVICE manager. Right- click choose uninstall.
2. Go to the wireless driver folder or LOCATION and install the correct driver. Restart if required.
3 Make sure your WIFI radio button is turned on then try connecting to your home network SSID and enter correct password. If your router is set to WPA, WPA2, make sure your wifi adapter is compatible or has this feature/support.
4. Run MinitoolBox again and post the result.
5. Do you have an antivirus installed? Try disabling and also check the difference.



I think I'm gonna suck up and get a USB thing, it's not a lot of money to save all the hassle... Thanks people DONE IT.
I'm not sure what did it, the buying of a USB Wireless Adapter, or the setting of static IP and DNS thingies, but it's SORTED now, thanks for all the helps

Hi there!

I'm new to this and need some help. I purchased an HP laptop just over a year ago and have been having issues with the wifi adapter for the past month. I use Windows 7 and keep getting this message:

"The Realtek RTL8188 CE 802.11b/g/n WiFi Adapter adapter is experiencing driver- or hardware- related problems."

It will not allow me to connect at all via wifi. I try to troubleshoot and get the same message. Sometimes, I can restart the laptop and it will work for short amount of time. If I linger on a page for too LONG, the yellow attention/exclamation point shows up over the icon for my wifi. When I try to troubleshoot, I get the above message.

Does anyone have any advice for me? I'm not very tech-y so any help would be appreciated!Please try reinstalling your wifi adapter from HP support site. LOOK for the model and EXACT OS you are currently using.
Download MiniToolBox and select all options.
A notepad will open then copy-paste the report on your next reply.

Any CHANGES before this happen?

So my Internet WIFI says I have a limited connection and so I tried the ipconfig /all command in command prompt and it gave me only four things which were the host NAME the PRIMARY DNS suffix
And if ip routing and wins proxy were enabled.They are not enabled and I have no DNS suffix I SEE no IP address and I can't get online. I have no idea where to go from here please help, LucieWelcome LucieMoon.
Download MiniToolBox and select all options.
A notepad will open then copy-paste the report on your next REPLY.

I was able to connect to a shared Samsung 2160 with my Windows 7 laptop 2 weeks ago at work. I haven't been able to connect to this printer since last week. When I try to print, nothing happens. I try to connect to another shared Samsung 2160. It looks like its going to connect. And then it says that the path is wrong. I tried to connect to PC by entering the PC name in the Run box. Says the path is wrong. I am still able to connect to these printers via desktop. My laptop & desktop where the printer is plugged both have Workgroup as the workgroup name. I have Norton Security. It found 50 viruses last week which I cleaned. And I am connected to the internet when I try to connect to these shared printers.Good eveing JL2008 and welcome to CH

That printer comes in a couple of models the ML2160 and CLX2160 and considering you said it was shared that you have the ML2160?

Your issue sounds like the sharing from the PC where the printer is connected (USB I am assuming) is disabled or Norton is doing it's normal and messing up.

For a test I would shut down Norton temporally and test printing and then if that doesn't work I would check the firewall on the shared PC that it is allowing the printer and software thru.

Hope this helps you, Mike Thanks for writing back.

Sorry I MEANT to say the printer is a ML-2165W. Yes the PC is connected via USB. The PC where the printer is connected is not disable. I was able to connect to this printer with 2 other desktops. I will disable Norton on Monday and let you know what happens.I shut down Norton temporarily. And that DIDNT fix the problem.

I have some more info. I plugged in the ethernet from my desktop & changed the workgroup to work. I was able to connect to the printer(Printer connected is XP)by creating a local port. There was a message that said to check the port but it still printed what I wanted to print. I unplugged the cable. And I wasnt able to print. I connected the USB to this PC and it worked. Any ideas? It has something to do with my wireless connection?


The other printer(Printer connected to 2000): I couldnt even connec to the PC. It said the path was wrong.
Sorry for late reply. I thought that I had replied back. I'm all set. Thanks.

Need to add a computer upstairs in our house, but the router is downstairs.

Looking at Wifi, but I found this Powerline network system which seems cheaper and seems more stable

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Actiontec---500-Mbps-Powerline-Home-Theater-Network-Adapter-Kit/5215483.p?id=1218625358741&skuId=5215483

or

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Tp-Link+-+TL-PA211+AV200+Mini+Powerline+Starter+Kit/4359873.p?id=1218475570165&skuId=4359873&st=powerline&cp=4&lp=5

These looks really good, no new wires, just plug one powerline adapter into a power plug near the router (correct?) and the other on plug in a socket near the computer.

Seems like a simple set up, and they say 500 Mbps which seems fast, good enough for gaming (right?)

Look like there is a LOT of adapters to choose from, but some are HomePlug certified, and some are not (the above are).

These both have HomePlug certification, is it important? Is HomePlug certified faster?

Anyone using Powerline, and how do they like it so far?I used a similar setup for a set of so-called Radio Shack wireless intercoms that used outlets as a transmission for voice. Worked ok if on the same breaker for both of them, but didnt work when one was on an outlet connected to 1 breaker and another was connected to another. Might have been transmission on the HOT poles and the 2 outlets could have been different phases. Not sure if same limitations for transmission apply to these where they have to be on same phase to work.

Update: You can run into issues with different circuits on different phases, but generally it’s totally plug and play.

Confirmation that these are same as the Radio Shack intercoms I had and have to be on same phase.
http://apcmag.com/power-me-up-tp-link-tl-pa211-powerline-adapter-review.htmMy general understanding of PowerLine adapters is that they are mediocre at best. On rare occasions they work great, but the vast majority of the time you're not going to approach near ethernet speeds. If you're on a slow INTERNET connection (like the lowest level that the cable/DSL company offers) you're probably not going to see a giant speed difference vs regular ethernet but you will always see increased lag. If you want to try out a system like this, just make sure you buy from a source that allows returns if the system doesn't perform to expectations.Something else you may wish to CONSIDER is a WI=FI extender.
http://wi-fi-booster-review.toptenreviews.com/
This site should only be used as a provider of knowledge and information. I feel certain a Google search can produce better prices. For instance yesterday's offering from Tiger Direct was promoting one for $29.95 on-line. truenorthTouching on what Ninjatex was getting at, but not stated. The ethernet adapter and other hardware also 'could' limit it to not be 500mbps, such as if it were a 10 mbps or 100mbps device connected to it. So if you have a 100mbps switch or router 'switch' tap to one of these the maximum would be 100mbps to the router or switch, and then bottlenecked further by your ISP connection. As well as if the device connected at the far end is 10mbps, then 10mbps is max bandwidth.

I also agree with Truenorth on the wifi wireless ( radio ) type extender vs using house wiring. But distance and obstructions between point A and B have to be taken into consideration. If you have a strong signal wireless G for example it may be 54mbps, while if you have 1 bar signal the sync rate might be like 2mbps to maintain the handshake.

As far as extenders go I have only used Copperlink ( private dsl type bridges ) for site to site over copper pair between buildings 2 miles APPART as well a Linksys Wireless BRIDGE to tap into existing Wifi from router etc and convert that to Cat5 connection to device such as an NHOST inspection computer at a service center which I made mobile bu use of a UPS at the base of it to unplug power and wheel it to a vehicle and run off UPS power to perform diagnostic and used wifi to report Pass or Fail for inspection back to the state of New Hampshire. These were kiosks, so I couldnt just install a wifi NIC.

I have been accessing the free wireless net at my LOCAL takeout, Hungry Jacks and sometimes I can connect to it okay but other times it doesn't work. I don't understand why it works probably about 3 out of 10 times but the other times it doesn't. I tried asking one of the workers but they had no clue. I posted some images of the network if anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.

[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]Could be a number of REASONS. Looks like your not being issued an IP since the IP in the pic is 169.x.x.x so the device either has an issue handing out DHCP ( IP,SUBNET,Gateway ) lease info or if more than 254 devices are connected to it concurrently ( or ) 254 devices have connected to it and it hasn't released the IPs back to the pool since the DHCP leases haven't expired , its run out of IPs so you can see it, but cant connect because its out of IP addresses.How can I connect then. Any advice. Have them unplug (power) and plug (power) back in the access point which is probably a wifi router. This will reset leases and open up the DHCP pool to 254 devices.

*Its probably up high on a wall etc so it may be EASIEST to unplug it were it is plugged into outlet. Giveit about 30 sec to fully reinitialize and you should be good to go if this was the cause!If your computer has a hardware switch or a function key combination to turn off wireless communications (on my computer I can press Fn+F2), try that, wait 10 seconds, and turn it back on with the same method. This should reset your network adapter and may FIX the problem. I've had the same problem with the IP Address that DaveLembke describes and that's usually fixed it for me.They won't reset there modem.

Technogeek I tried your solution but it didn't work.

I'm at a loss.As a temporary fix, you can change your IP address to 192.168.0.x, where x is more than about 10 and less than about 100, to see if you can get connected. For a more permananent fix, find the DHCP settings on the router and try to fix those.

Note: In a hurry to get to school soon; sorry about the lack of detail.How do i find the dhcp when its not my router. its a free wifi router.You also need subnet mask and gateway in addition to the STATIC IP... fishing for an open IP as TechnoGeek suggested method could work, if its just a DHCP issue.

Next time you are able to connect to their wifi:

1.) Go to command prompt (start ->Run -> CMD ) and run IPCONFIG/ALL
2.) Write down IP, Subnet Mask, Gateway, and DNS info or use copy/paste of text in command shell as save as a text file to look back at.
3.) Set your wifi to this IP, Subnet Mask, Gateway, and DNS with static information bypassing their DHCP

Worst you could do is stomp on top of someone else with the same IP in use, otherwise if its just a DHCP issue, you might be able to get connected online using an IP lease that isnt in use.

Suspicious activity.
Can someone please help me with trouble that I have been having for the past 5 years or so? (Yes, 5 years indeed.)
I want to make this thread as simple and as accurate as possible so that I can receive the most help I can get.
So with a lot of patience and hope I type this so that I will get some clarification to what has been happening.

The problem I have is that my internet connection gets cut off very frequently. I believe someone is doing it from behind the scenes. Now before I start pointing fingers or before people start calling me paranoid please take into consideration what I have to say. First lets start with what Operating system I use. I am currently using WINDOWS 7 but I try to stay away from it since it has many vulnerabilities. My other option that I prefer is Linux, I have tried so many Linux distributions that I can not say which I favor regardless the problem is there. So taking in mind what I just said about which operating system I use I can say that MALWARE is probably not the issue here.

Next lets talk about my Internet Service Provider.. It provides my home with both CABLE and CABLE INTERNET I am going to try to be as diligent as possible about this topic and not name the company for my sake!.. Let me just tell you that this company has been rated as one of the worst in the US.

Ive called my internet service provider many times asking what is up with my internet. Not to my surprise the representatives either do not want to give me information since I am not the person in charge of the account, hang up, or just lie to me or even make me wait over 30+ minutes just to instruct me to reset the router when I have done it myself almost as if they are mocking me. Its been several times that Ive called regarding the issue of the internet getting dropped I have gotten the response that it has to do with my router when I know that it works perfectly fine I have 2 of my own routers and they provided me with 1 that I do not even use. Now it is understood to me that they do regular maintenance so the internet must drop but I refuse to believe that in a week my connection drops more than 7 times. Turns out of all EVERY time I have called about the internet being dropped the connection comes back by itself proving what I know that the router works fine. I got a lot more problems that I would like to share with everyone but I rather not.+

My next theory is that someone is flooding my network but I am not certain of it since I do not do any of that stuff myself. Or entering into my system and disconnecting my network.

So what happens when my internet drops? I recieve a strange IP address (169.254.0.0) known as Link-Local. More can be found here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Link-local_address
And I can not access my router configuration page via my browser. (192.168.0.1)
When I use windows network diagnosis or other troubleshooting methods I get the message that I have an INVALID IP adress but why?.
Also the REASON why I stay away from windows is that even when using as much precautions as possible like installing a firewall anti spyware fresh copy of windows I still get dangerous ports open that are used for file sharing and that leave my system open. Ive done as much as I can think to secure my network like I have disabled wireless networking completely and block ports that I think can leave me vulnerable with the router configuration page. So yes I know a little about internet security but not everything, just the basics..

So with this I close my thread and hopefully someone with more knowledge and that is willing to guide me can tell me what in the world is going on.
Thank you all who have taken the time to read and think about my problem!

Ive attached a the connection my machine receives right after I get disconnected. Hopefully it can give a little more info,


[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]Well, First I want to thank your detail and the way you provided links to information that tells me that you have been trying to find the problem. I do like it when people provide the basics and the steps they tried so that we can skip the things you have been doing with this problem. From what I read it is a DHCP problem, the DHCP is in charge of assigning I.P addresses either by hand or by auto configuration. Most computers pick an IP when you connect to a network and you do not have to touch it unless you want a static IP address that would be used for something on your network that you don’t want it changed, else you have to go reconfigure the FILES and the things you set up. The most common things I can think of that, use this would be a home hosted website or a FTP. Now, from that wiki I have found out the following information this “local address” is only used when it cannot find ANOTHER method such as DHCP. After doing some research of my own, I found the following information that might be of use to you If you would like to give it a try that is fine or wait for more advice to come rolling in and that I am more than ok with as well. This is also more for IPv4 and not so much for IPv6 as those devices require that type of IP, but I have not been around IPv6 long enough to tell you much of anything useful about it. First thing I would advise looking into is if you have IP Addresses assigned. To do this on windows seven follow the following steps:
Run CMD as Administrator
Type: ipconfig
You will get a long list of information, you want to make sure that you have the following:
Link-local IPv6 Address In the following format 000.000.000.0, of course if it is all 0’s that is a problem.
IPv6 Address, Subnet Mask, If something is not listed than your DHCP might be not working right or something else.
By chance does the Link-Local address in the error match the one on cmd.
In addition, here is a link on how to make sure your DHCP is set up, but the problem I see is that you cannot access the web interface. I have a bad feeling that you may have gotten something called DNS Changer Malware. Don’t freak out I might have over looked something but please go read here and test your system. https://forms.fbi.gov/check-to-see-if-your-computer-is-using-rogue-DNS I am stuck on what this could be, I will hope someone can peace together this information along with the information requested. Check that first and if that is the problem, than I am will not be able to help but I am sure someone else can.

A note I would like to add in for you as you seem to like things being secure, when you reset the router you have default passwords and the local IP options is about five different ones to go into the interface. Once you get this problem fixed, it might be a very wise idea to change the default router password. It really does not matter what else you do to keep the network safe if someone can access the page itself. It is what most of us would consider a completely big enough to create more.
Thank you very much for your time and your reply. I left out a lot of the details to the problem since I thought that nobody might even read it all or even reply. I have tried pretty much everything you suggested even gone as far as using a paid VPN service and still the problem is there. I try to avoid IPV6 by disabling it on my machine and blocking it with my firewall since I dont think I even use it,
To be honest I have to re-install my windows operating system more than 3 times a month starting from scratch!! Just to get the thing working. I change the default router passwords and reset them frequently and I still am baffled by the result... until recently.. As mentioned before thanks for the reply but I think I know now what is the cause.what do you think is the cause of your problem, if you fix it let me know due to the fact I have never seen this one before. All the symptoms you give are exactly the same as what happens with my preferred router when it spontaneously reboots. Note that one of the assistance posts in my thread that I got trying to fix that router's issue it was pointed out that a unstable AC power can cause this with many routers and certain other devices, while not manifesting themselves with anything else.

Otherwise, it's the exact same symptom. Internet connection dissappears for a bit, the duration of which I have very limited access and cannot access the router at all.

If you want to rule out the router, connect the internet cable from the cable modem to your PC. If you don't get dropouts, it's the router(s). If you do, it's the modem.

I have an HP Elitebook 8460P that has a BUILT in wireless card. I use cable internet through Charter COMMUNICATIONS. When I use this laptop off of the docking station, my speeds show upwards of 40MBPS. When I pop this into the docking station my speed drops to below 10 MBPS and sometimes less than 1 MBPS. If I remove the laptop from the docking station and set it to the side, and speedtest, upwards of 40MBPS. This seems to be an issue with the laptop being docked.

I am not aware of the docking station having a wireless card inside of it.

I really need to be able to use the docking station as I need the serial port (which works) and the laptop does not have a serial port so NOT using the docking station isnt an option.

Laptop running Windows 7 Enterprise SP1 32 bit. 6Gig RAM; Intel Core 2.50 GHz.

Please let me know if someone can assist me.

Thanks,

Jay

Sounds like the signal is getting grounded by the dock. Never seen this before, but just seems ODD that the signal is getting killed like that. They do make Serial RS232 to USB dongles to add a RS232 port to any computer with USB 2.0 and drivers installed these days. The dongles are PRETTY cheap as shown here. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812156039

I used a similar device at my last job to program mettler toledo point of sale scales the label formatting parameters for the deli and it worked great. My laptop was lacking a serial port and I picked one of these up for $20 at a local computer shop.

*So not using the dock if thats all the dock was needed for is an option! Thank you I will try ANOTHER docking station first and see if the DS is the actual cause. If not, I will try one of the dongels. Thank you for your reply and recommendation.

Hello guys,

I am new here and hope I can get some help or guidance from anyone.

I have tried this morning to print from a laptop ( as I did successfully yesterday) but the response was that the printer is offline.

The wireless printer is a Canon M4150.

Any help is HIGHLY appreciated.

Many thanks

Kind regards

Gianpi For anybody to answer this we'll need some more information. How is your network setup, your printer? What model of printer do you have?Hello ninjatex,

Thanks for your prompt reply.

My network setup is a on LAN basis and I have BT broadband and EVERYTHING is linked wirelessly.

I have linked to the printer canon MG4150 two LAPTOPS: one with windows2003 successfully whereas the other one with windows7 keeps saying the printer is offline.

Please let me know whether the above is sufficient for you to provide me with some guidance or whether you need more information.

thank you

kind regards

gianpiwell according to google this is a comman problem and their are driver updates for windows seven. The updates or package is newer then your disk for your printer, make sure this is the right printer before you install the drivers. Although if it is not the installer will just end up giving you an error of some kind and you can't go PAST that POINT. http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/compatibility/windows-7/en-us/Details.aspx?type=Hardware&p=Canon%20Pixma%20MG4150%20All-in-One%20Printer&v=Canon&uid=Pixma%20MG4150&l=en-US&pf=29&pi=5&c=Printers%20%26%20Scanners&sc=Multifunction&os=64-bit Also note that I surched the following: your make model not printing on a windows seven computer. That is where I came across that link, but just in case you need another link you have my serch terms. This was also a big problem with my hp all and one untill they had an updated disk driver set that I could get from hp.

Good luck with your printing,
Nadia

My laptop, which is only 4 months old, will no longer connect to my wireless router. It was working just a few days ago. I have the laptop set to connect automatically. I know my security key and wireless router are good because my IPOD will connect. I tried resetting the router anyway. I have disabled/enabled the wireless adapter. I have REMOVED the wireless network altogether from my laptop and tried to connect manually. The laptop will see my SSID. I GET to the point to enter my security key, which I know is good as I mentioned earlier. but I still cannot connect. I am at a LOSS now. Any more ideas will be much appreciated.

Thank youGood news! I thought a system RESTORE to a PREVIOUS date when it did work might cure my problem. It did. I do not know if there are any negative repercussions to a system restore, but I am glad I can connect to my router now.

I have a Aspire one ZG5 that has a and whilst it connects when I’m away relatively easily, I just CAN’T get it to connect wirelessly at home, yet everything else connects to my router without a problem. The router is a Belkin N Wireless model FSD 8638 – 4 –V2.

The netbook see the wifi network, I put in the password and it seems to connect – in fact it says connected, with excellent strength yet it just won’t connect to the internet.

If I try to send and receive message via live mail I get the error message: The host 'pop.tiscali.co.uk' could not be FOUND. Please verify that you have entered the server name correctly. Account: '1 TISCALI', Server: 'pop.tiscali.co.uk', Protocol: POP3, PORT: 110, Secure(SSL): No, Socket Error: 11004, Error Number: 0x800CCC0D

If I try to connect to a browser (any one) I get the message “no internet connection”
When I look at the connection status it will show something like 75 packets sent, 10 received.

The internal wifi modem is Atheros Ar5007eg Wireless Network and the netbook is RUNNING WINDOWS XP Home SERVICE PACK 3.

I have taken screen shots of every error message I can, as well as converting he diagnostic CHECK to images (all 40+ pages of it) on Photobucket http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm81/freccle/NETBOOK/

Can anyone suggest what I’m doing WRONG to connect or does it seem as there is a problem with the notebook? I’d assume that but it connects in other places! And it always SAYS it’s connected.

Should I try getting a wifi dongle and see if I can get connected via that?
HELP!!!

I can barely do anything on my computer because it always disconnects. When I try to upload big files it disconnects, when I try to use skype and CALL someone/group call it disconnects and when I try to stream or use my webcam on tiny chat it disconnects. And sometimes when someone else is using a computer or lap top in my house they steal my connection and it disconnects.

I have a Motorola router in my house, and on my computer I use a small Linksys router to get connection. When I FIRST got my computer it never had this problem before, but now I just keeps doing this.

And I restart my Motorola router almost every day and nothing is fixed.Contact your ISP. Ask them for advice, if they don't improve it then ask for new hardware...

You haven't FULLY explained how its setup, do you have a motorola router, connecting to a linksy router, and then to your PC? That seems pointless. Surely you just run the connection directly from the router connecting to the ISP to anything REQUIRING a connection?sounds like you are on dialup, not enough up and download speed to do anything with except for one comp. If you are on dsl or CABLE call the co. and ask to check your connection and average speed, just because the speed you pay for is not exactly what you get.