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Hi,

My friend just started his business. There are 5 people working here including both of us. He bought a SAMSUNG 2165W. He wants all of us to USE this printer. What do we have to do? None of the PC's are on a domain. The printer has no ethernet jack. Do we just have to buy a router? Can we print via the ip address of the printer. We are using Vista. We installed the CD. We tried to install via USB. They wanted some numbers. We tried via WPS but we couldnt since there is no router.Short answer, Yes will buy a wireless router. The COMPUTERS MAY connect via either then router Ethernet or USB wireless thing.
Follow in instructions on the CD. But the CD will not its job before you have the router.
In Windows the printer is identified by its name, not is IP.

Good used routers are now under $35 and even some new for that price.
Thanks

Apart from the TECHNICAL issue - can it be DONE practically? the legal issue - can it be done legally? there is the moral issue - is it right to do this? How can it ever be right to spy on a LOVED one?
appreciate the information guys, thank you for TAKING your time to EXPLAIN...

Hi
Any know that about swap server or pc if 1 server down then it swap to second server. how they use technoloy? thankWhat do you already know?
The idea is not new. It is now considered dead.
The current thing is, I believe, a virtual server moved in a cluster of rank computers using mostly software one very, very high bandwidth LAN. Often a optical link.
Tandem desktop computers are pointless. If you are a VIP and your desktop goes down, you tell one of your subordinates to go to lunch. And you go to his desktop, log in with your account and RUN off of the enterprise system that has copy of everything you have.

No, that is NOT a joke.

What I am saying is with optical networking, redundant hardware is no longer needed in a company that already has more that about ten DESKTOPS. Seldom does every user need his desktop at the same time.

Would you like to rephrase the question as:
'How do I sync two desktop PCs s so one can take over if the other fails.'

EDIT: Reference:
Fiber Distributed Data Interface (FDDI)
Quote

How It Works
Fiber Distributed Data Interface (FDDI) is usually implemented as a dual token-passing ring WITHIN a ring topology (for campus networks) or star topology (within a building). The dual ring CONSISTS of a primary and secondary ring. The primary ring carries data. The counter-rotating secondary ring can carry data in the opposite direction, but is more commonly reserved as a backup in case the primary ring goes down. This provides FDDI with the degree of fault tolerance necessary for network backbones. In the event of a failure on the primary ring, FDDI automatically reconfigures itself to use the secondary ring as shown in the illustration. Faults can be located and repaired using a fault isolation technique called beaconing. However, the secondary ring can also be configured for carrying data, extending the maximum potential bandwidth to 200 MBPS.
... (more)

i have lava MOBILE BROADBAND STICK for using the net on pc. lava stick is able to handle 7.2 mbps speed but i got speed below 6 kb when i connect lava stick to pc i got a msg window i attached DAT msg ag image, i does not what is the meaning of this and how can resolve that PROBLEM. help me plz

[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]Good morning AVTAR SINGH and welcome to CH

The message you are getting windows thinks a device plugged in is a USB 1.0 device and not USB 2.0

#1.. try using a different USB port
#2.. Does the manufacture have updated drivers / firmware
#3.. Slow SPEEDS with a nation wide card can be a low / poor signal
#4.. You can plug in a USB extension CORD. So unplug your stick and plug in the ext cable into PC and then plug the stick into the end of the cable and move the stick around for better reception.

Hope this helps please let us know if this helps or if you need any more help. Mike

I connect via a Nokia 6230i phone. It shows a speed of 921.6 Kbps. Is there a significant WAY of increasing my download speed or is it limited by the modem speed. Are there other THINGS I can do to speed up, or am I wasting my time.
Ken MilesI am not familiar with the manner in which service providers provide their speed for portable phones.However if it is SIMILAR to DSL providers then there are a variety of things that provide various speed situations. DSL providers often provide their customers with various pricing options that that can alter speed plus other variables depending on the package paid for.The equipment of secondary providers can also effect speed. As technology is constantly evolving newer wi-fi devices such as 4G will be CAPABLE of higher speeds than earlier devices with earlier wi-fi technology. Thus depending on these variables (the availability of the highest local transmitting speeds and/or the current state of your receiving technology) how much you can improve your speed will be determined.Have you talked to your provider to see if you are indeed receiving the best they offer or what if anything can be done to improve it? truenorthMobile internet speed will be governed by the service level you are paying for and signal strength. Nearly 1 megabit isn't bad for a mobile connection. Check with your mobile provider cutomer service team.

I've tried everything from turning off firewall to port forwarding, I can't access any game server online, I can't login to Playstation network, I can only browse and download. My provider just shut the line on me while i was explaining, also impatient.. don't let me get started. My DSL is blinking orange.
I can browse the internet normally and download stuff and STREAM videos.

Here is my ipconfig /All:

Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . : Nobody-PC
Primary Dns Suffix . . . . . . . :
Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Hybrid
IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
DNS Suffix Search List. . . . . . : lan

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection* 17:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Anchorfree HSS Adapter
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-FF-BD-D7-EF-C3
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Wireless LAN adapter Wireless Network Connection:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : lan
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : RangeMax Wireless-N USB Adapter WN111v2
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-1F-33-F5-0E-49
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 10.0.0.100(Preferred)
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : 10. september 2012 13:16:31
Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : 11. september 2012 13:16:30
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 10.0.0.138
DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 10.0.0.138
DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : 130.67.15.198
193.213.112.4
10.0.0.138
NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Enabled

Ethernet adapter Bluetooth Network Connection:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Bluetooth Device (Personal Area Network)
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-19-7E-E6-5A-C2
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Intel(R) 82562V-2 10/100 Network Connecti
on
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-21-70-07-D0-61
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
IPv6 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 2001:0:5ef5:79fd:349e:31b:f5ff:ff9b(Prefe
rred)
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::349e:31b:f5ff:ff9b%14(Preferred)
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : ::
NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Disabled

Tunnel adapter isatap.{0FF26E15-6D81-4A02-8BD1-7419F2FCBD82}:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #5
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Tunnel adapter isatap.lan:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : lan
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #6
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes


Edited by Allan to remove profanityWe'll be happy to help you, but please watch your language. This forum is visited by people of all ages and nationalities and we do not wish to offend anyone. I've edited your POST this time.Ok sorry if I've caused any inconvenience. I am just a bit mad :/Why not change Internet Providers?It was working before, but suddenly it stopped.Your original post says your ISP "shut the line". If that's the case, you need to contact them.Quote from: Allan on September 10, 2012, 08:42:06 AM

Your original post says your ISP "shut the line". If that's the case, you need to contact them.

I think he means he called his ISP on the phone, and at some point the customer service representative terminated the call. They might have done this for a variety of reasons...

My DSL is blinking orange

you folks on the other side of the pond and your colloquialisms

I had Satellite Internet installed Tuesday and everything was working great until I shut my PC off. After booting my PC back up, it wouldn't connect back to the internet. I opened my network and sharing center and under 'active networks', it showed a small blue circle and just kept saying "Identifying..." I had the guy who installed it come back out YESTERDAY morning to fix it and he got it back up and working again. I had him shut the PC down and restart it a couple of times to make SURE it would work before he left and everything worked fine. However, after he left I uninstalled a previous dial-up account and had to reboot. As soon as I rebooted the PC, it started doing the same thing.

I had the same thing happen again this morning. The PC disconnected and I couldn't get it to connect back. I tried again this evening. Again, it just kept saying "Identifying...". I left the PC on for a little while and came back over to it and it was finally connected again.

The internet is working fine now and has for the past few hours or so. However, I would like to know what caused this and keep it from happening again. When it was not working, I tried several things, including unplugging the modem to reset it as well as running CMD. I have talked to several people on the phone and no one seems to know what to do. They keep saying that the modem shows online and that it must be in my PC. I am starting to believe this because I tried a laptop and the Internet worked fine. I restarted the laptop several times and it would work great everytime. However, I cannot get it to work all the time on my desktop.

I was told by a tech when it was not working to open the command prompt and type "ipconfig /release" and then "ipconfig /renew", but both would not work. I kept getting an error that the IP could not be released or renewed. It is like every time I turn my PC off, or restart it, I cannot connect. The tech told me that my modem is online and that it had something to do with my IP address not releasing. Does anyone know what I can do to keep this from happening again? I don't want to have to leave my PC on all the time. I just don't have any idea what to do to keep it from happening again. One person I talked to told me to contact Dell to find out why the IP address keeps changing or not being released. But, my PC is out of waranty and they would charge a fee. So, I thought I would ask the awesome people on here.

On a side note, I am now getting a pop-up error constantly about "Stop running this script?" It is happening all the time. How can I get rid of this error as well? I have ATTACHED a screenshot of the error. help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]Good morning ThreeD and welcome to CH

Do you have wild blue sat if so some locations need to install the optimizer http://help.wildblue.net/kb/article/1957

Then I would also delete your temp files from your browsers.

Hope this helps you MikeQuote from: hartbeatmr on September 08, 2012, 12:14:15 AM

Good morning ThreeD and welcome to CH

Do you have wild blue sat if so some locations need to install the optimizer http://help.wildblue.net/kb/article/1957

Then I would also delete your temp files from your browsers.

Hope this helps you Mike

Hi Folks. It's been a while ,but not by choice.

Anyway,I'm attempting to help an elderly lady(even older than me) with her network connection. She's now attempting to connect from wi-fi to DSL which is what I have. I've brought her PC to my place in order to get help for her.

Her PC Dell Inspiron 6000.(xp) USING her PC (wireless) it will not recognize my router. When connected wired I get a local connection only but no internet.

The ISP tech. that installed the DSL for her TODAY gave up trying to get a connection. He recommended a new PC.

Although old, the PC appears to work fine. I'm not sure about any of this but..... In DEVICE Manager (network ADAPTERS) my laptop that works fine shows; Intel (R) PRO/Wireless 2200BG Network Connection and Realtek RTL8139/810x Family Fast Ethernet NIC

Hers show 1394 Net Adapter--- Broadcom 440x 10/100 Integrated Controller -- Intel(R) PRO/ Wireless 2200BG Network Connection.

If none of this is relevant , where should I start or what should I be doing? Thanks, overthehill




Do you SEE any flags under device manager and what is the status on each adapter? What is the windows message when trying to connect either wired or wireless?
Download MiniToolBox and select all options.
A notepad will open then copy-paste the report on your next reply. Try using either wired or wireless connection before running the program.Go to Control Panel - Network Connections. Do you see your DSL connection listed there? If so, choose it.Quote from: jason2074 on September 05, 2012, 11:09:50 PM

Do you see any flags under device manager and what is the status on each adapter? What is the windows message when trying to connect either wired or wireless?
Download MiniToolBox and select all options.
A notepad will open then copy-paste the report on your next reply. Try using either wired or wireless connection before running the program.

Go to Control Panel - Network Connections. Do you see your DSL connection listed there? If so, choose it.

Would you have me download the mini tool box to my PC then load it on the problem PC?

it will not recognize my router

Please do so. What do you mean by not recognizing? Do you have WPA/WPA2 encryption key set for the router and computers that can connect? This could also be the problem with the Dell Inspiron laptop.

Hello, this is just a small issue we have at my job - The computer there is a HP Pavilion Slimline s5-1014 PC.

We have machines (three) that hook up to the computer to run their programs. We have the three machines hooked into a router and run the Ethernet cord from there to the PC.

Now we started using Dropbox to move files for the machines from engineering to the computer (we were using a flash drive but it gets tiring walking back and forth). So we use a wireless USB ADAPTER to connect to the internet.

However! When the wireless is connected, the machines get "lost", they can not access the programs on the computer and the computer can not send commands to the machines (host not responding/machine not found) and once we unplug the wireless, it CONNECTS again.

The machines appear (in network connections) as "LAN: No Internet Access" and the internet (when we plug it in) appears as *Name* Internet Access

Basically, is there a way to connect to both the LAN and the Wireless so we can run the machines and update files on dropbox at the same time? If not, why not?

Also, it is unfeasible to run an actual internet cord out to the warehouse, as machines/forklift/cart/people are always moving around the FLOOR. Concrete walls and a huge ceiling with a second floor also make it hard to run cords out there.

Thank you for any help!Good morning Mayuukosan and welcome to CH

These machines "We have machines (three) that hook up to the computer to run their programs" are PC's or CNC equipment or ?

The router is it a wireless router correct?

How many PC's are involved etc

Please DESCRIBE all your equipment involved: PC, machine's, router type / model, how are the PC's & Machines addressed DHCP or static? are / is the equipment in a workgroup setting or a domain?

Please supply any & all info. This should be able to be done. Hope to hear from you soon, Mike They are Multicam CNC machines. Each machine has an ethernet cord that goes into a regular router. (not wireless.) The internet router is a wireless router.

The machine router is then plugged into the PC using an ethernet cord. The PC has the cnc files and the multicam operating program, so should the computer go off, the machines stop.

So it goes machines > router > 1 pc using ethernet cords for each connection.

We access the internet using a USB wireless dongle.If the dongle is plugged in, and the internet is accessable, the machines act as though they are unplugged. They shut off and do not return to conected status until the USB dongle is disconnected. We do not unplug any of the ethernet cords, just attach the dongle.

So LAN = machines and wireless = internet.

I can still see the LAN in the Network and connection options, but if I connect to it, the wireless goes out. If we plug in the dongle, it conects to the wireless but the machines give us a "not connected to host" error.

The machines have static IPs but are not part of any workgroup or domain. The computer has a static IP but is also not part of any workgroup or domain.

We are using the program Dropbox to update/ move files between engineering and the machine computer.

The office has only Macs except for this machine computer, as the software only runs on Windows, or so we were told. The machines are only accessible on the Windows computer ( the one we are having the issue with).

It seems that the error is that I can not stay connected to both the ethernet LAN network and the USB wireless network at the same time.

The machine router says " ethernet hub 10BASE-T", and the wireless internet router is a cisco fa4500.

Thank you for any help on this. Hope this is the right information.
Quote

However! When the wireless is connected, the machines get "lost", they can not access the programs on the computer and the computer can not send commands to the machines (host not responding/machine not found) and once we unplug the wireless, it connects again.

It seems that the error is that I can not stay connected to both the ethernet LAN network and the USB wireless network at the same time.

Hello to all. I recently have acquired two older, past support warranty, network switch chassis that i am completely new to.

These have 7 bays, with several 48 port, 24 port, and other modules in them.

My experience is in unmanaged switches, so this is completely new, and i know this will be a learning curve.

How would i set these up into working order?

Some basic information, written by humans would be appreciated, thanks. I did find a manual, however, it was over 600 pages.

Thanks again. Good evening zeroburn and welcome back to CH

I know that you already know this but:

A un-managed switch really is just like a hub that has no firmware / software / web portal in it so there is no configuration settings etc.

A Managed switch or smart switch do come in different levels of manageability / configuration. My self I have not set up Enterasys units but really for the most part I can't believe that these would be any different than a Cisco commercial class / Catalyst or maybe a Netgear etc. Another nice thing about switches like what you got your hands on you can set up security rules, traffic control etc.

Sorry I am not ABLE to give you any useful information maybe someone will pop in that has set one of these up. Looks like you are going to be doing a whole lot of READING

Mike These network chassis type things are complete overkill for my applications. i picked them up for cheap, and frankly, i have no idea how to run them.

and, yeah, i suppose reading is now on my LIST of things to do.

Hello;

I was attempting to setup a PXE boot server over the WAN to be able to boot images from my home windows Server 2008 box. (I understand it will be slow, I want it as an emergency backup)

iPXE supports booting over the wan, but I don't understand the example that is given.

See : http://ipxe.org/_detail/screenshots/ipxedemo.png?id=start

I understand the commands to invoke this boot (Technically this is booting from http, but I'm just going to install apache on my win server box and host the images as a private website) but I don't understand what is going on on the HTTP end.

I checked the php file that the url pointed to (http://boot.ipxe.org/demo/boot.php) and got this code :

Code: [SELECT]#!ipxe

kernel vmlinuz-2.6.17-14mdv bootfile=http://boot.ipxe.org/demo/boot.php fastboot
initrd initrd.img
boot

I don't see from that where the actual image is stored, and if there is anything else I need to install/configure. The documentation is a little lacking,and Im not quite sure how much is PROPRIETARY to iPXE and how much it relates to PXE booting in general (which I have no experience with).

Any help is appreciated.
-DiatechInteresting... I would think that over the internet you would have to flash your NIC's BootROM to point to an IP to pick up the PXE service from, OTHERWISE your NIC would pick up on the first PXE Boot service detected when outbound looking for PXE which could be someone elses iPXE broadcast. I wasnt aware of an iPXE and am going to have to read up on how this works.http://ipxe.org/howto/romburning/intel

Looks like my guess that you will need to flash your NICs bootRom is correct for iPXE

I've never flashed my NICs BootROM for anything like this so its at your own risk if you BRICK your NIC
Last time I flashed my BootRom was to bring a bunch of Intel Pro 100+ Management Adapters to latest version from the prior older flashes to make them uniform latest version for PXE Boot for RIS service. Bought 20 of them off of ebay for like $15 and they were a mix of very old to newer Rom flash versions. Booted a Pentium 75 off a floppy disk with DOS 6.22 and flashed them manually 1 by 1 until all 20 were latest version from Intel.Quote from: DaveLembke on September 07, 2012, 03:35:23 PM

http://ipxe.org/howto/romburning/intel

Looks like my guess that you will need to flash your NICs bootRom is correct for iPXE

I've never flashed my NICs BootROM for anything like this so its at your own risk if you BRICK your NIC
Last time I flashed my BootRom was to bring a bunch of Intel Pro 100+ Management Adapters to latest version from the prior older flashes to make them uniform latest version for PXE Boot for RIS service. Bought 20 of them off of ebay for like $15 and they were a mix of very old to newer Rom flash versions. Booted a Pentium 75 off a floppy disk with DOS 6.22 and flashed them manually 1 by 1 until all 20 were latest version from Intel.

well, after setting up the router, i am able to view the google page and see my facebook, in real time, not a cached page of the browser.

This always wears off, but seems to be staying in effect for now. I'll have to see how things go when i use this to provide internet to the servers.

In basig, yes, i believe the two routers are able to communicate, as i can chat on facebook from the computer used to set up the router. Wireless card is turned off on the computer i am using to configure.

Good morning zeroburn and welcome back

I am happy that you got it too work what did you do? was it the wireless channel or ?

But from reading your post you don't sound to happy or convinced that you will be OK.

Thanks, Mike Well, i will be in need of unpluging the router and putting it into place with my servers.
EDIT: this part of this piece pf network hardware's installation makes me nervous

And i did just recently GET back from a trip to montana, and now i am back to work. I am just about ready to call this working. The bride provides an internet connection with ping commands directed at google having the same latency in ms to return packet DATA as any other hard wired connection, although, when i get the opportunity to, this will be replaced by in-wall wiring.

I followed the directions using the (very helpful) suggestions of enabling n-g mixed wireless mode. i am not ready to mark solved, though, because i have yet to test if it works as a repeater also, as i have been led to believe it can. and seccondly, i do not have the machines that i intend to be on the other end of the bridge moved yet.

This idea was my solution to having all the humming servers and the EXTERNAL fan from affecting my workstation area, where i also do quite a bit of acoustic work. Sorry to be doing so many post's in a row.

The bridge is still working great, however, when i try pinging google.com, it returns that the host name is bad, but if i use the IP for google, it works just fine.
Doing the same commands on any other computer not running behind the bridge, and it is just fine.

Code: [Select][emailprotected]:/# ping google.comping: unknown host google.com
[emailprotected]:/# ping 74.125.225.196PING 74.125.225.196 (74.125.225.196) 56(84) bytes of data.
64 bytes from 74.125.225.196: icmp_req=4 ttl=55 time=2013 ms
64 bytes from 74.125.225.196: icmp_req=5 ttl=55 time=1006 ms
64 bytes from 74.125.225.196: icmp_req=6 ttl=55 time=16.0 ms
64 bytes from 74.125.225.196: icmp_req=8 ttl=55 time=19.0 ms
^C
--- 74.125.225.196 ping statistics ---
8 packets transmitted, 4 received, 50% packet loss, time 7047ms
rtt min/avg/max/mdev = 16.010/763.782/2013.930/826.966 ms, pipe 2
[emailprotected]:/#

i am guessing that this is an issue with my CONFIGURATION, however, i have all settings relating to domain names and host's set to values that are appropriate. such as the local DNS server being the main router (192.168.1.1) and whatnot.

If anyone has a clue, let me know.On either side of the bridge, what do you get for
ipconfig /all

Hello was wondering if anyone can help me out on this my kid was given a pc from this scheme they had from school with there own wireless internet which was like a square little dish that they stuck on the roof it was ideal because all adult material was blocked unfortunately the scheme didn't last very long and the internet was no longer available but they said that we could keep the pc so they sent me an txt message on how to change the configuration to use any isp but stupid me didnt save it because i was thinking on which service provider to use well to cut the long story SHORT school CANT do it for me no more because its been a while now and there ENGINEER is no longer there who DEALT with this can anyone help me on how to change the configuration i would really appreciate it thanks in advance You posted a very long string of words without a single use of punctuation. Your post would be easier to read if it was properly punctuated.

To answer your question, more info would be helpful. What version of Windows is on that PC? Do you have an ISP now at home? Are you using a wireless router? Have you tried connecting to the Internet via ETHERNET cable? Did that work?

I let others use my PC. I use IE while they prefer Foxfire. But many of their activities (downloading, posting, etc) broadcast my IDENTITY and others on the internet can trace their activities to me. Example: Any posted photo, by my guests, can be right-clicked to access Properties, which reads "/my name/My Pictures/file name/image title/" How can I change the identity, of all activities on Foxfire, to "Guest"? How do you know they can trace your activities? I just now downloaded one of my facebook photos, and the right click properties you mentioned only listed the folder i downloaded it to. Pictures don't usually store that kind of metadata, you're probably looking at the current folder on YOUR computer that it's in, which would of course include your name.Good evening Balatro and welcome to CH

First yes your ISP can and do record all web SITES that is visited by your PC. This information is all over here is just one web site http://lifehacker.com/5825746/what-you-need-to-know-about-the-internet-snooping-bill-and-what-you-can-do-about-it

My suggestion for your PC is

#1... Password protect your account on the PC
#2... Create a second account on the PC and set it up as a "limited USER" and on that account start the parental control settings in IE also.
#3... Don't let any one use your PC if they make you that nevus or that you may not trust.
#4... You can use a proxy server with SSH etc.

Hope this helps, Mike Create a new account for guest users with limited permissions. If you look closely within the properties details, Its the Location in which the current user who is logged in and the user(your name), downloads folder is the destination. Quote from: TechnoGeek on August 13, 2012, 06:50:08 PM

How do you know they can trace your activities? I just now downloaded one of my facebook photos, and the right click properties you mentioned only listed the folder i downloaded it to. Pictures don't usually store that kind of metadata, you're probably looking at the current folder on YOUR computer that it's in, which would of course include your name.

Create a new account for guest users with limited permissions. If you look closely within the properties details, Its the Location in which the current user who is logged in and the user(your name), downloads folder is the destination.

Hey there,

Can anyone explain what the difference is here. I know there are coloured cables under the outer sheathing, but if these are all copper, so what difference does the colour make if they are all copper UNDERNEATH. I know this might sound like a weird question but I just see them as copper going in to the jack.

Thanks for any clarification on this.

B2 Hello there are two standards that person must follow they are TIA/EIA 568A and TIA/EIA 568B. A straight through cable connects PC to router and is configured with the same STANDARD at both ends i.e. TIA/EIA 568A on both ends. A crossover cable is a cable that connects to PC's directly without the need for a router. This cable has got TIA/EIA 568A on one end and TIA/EIA 568B on the other.

TIA/EIA 568A wiring:
Pin 1: White and green
Pin 2: Green
Pin 3: White and orange
Pin 4: Blue
Pin 5: White and blue
Pin 6: Orange
Pin 7: White and brown
Pin 8: Brown

TIA/EIA 568A wiring:
Pin 1: White and orange
Pin 2: Orange
Pin 3: White and green
Pin 4: Blue
Pin 5: White and blue
Pin 6: Green
Pin 7: White and brown
Pin 8: Brown
God evening Base2 and welcome to CH

Very nice description that "luck of the irish" wrote but made a mistake / typo

568A & 568B are the same and just the wire coatings is different on them and not the ends from being crossed that's it in order and the same on both ends. They are both standards and one is getting phased out. This is for straight through cat cables that are cat 5 and cat 5e. It doesn't matter which one is used really so long as both ends are wired the same way / standard.

The wiring configuration of both of them will depend on who installed the wiring or made the cables. This may help you as well http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TIA/EIA-568 for straight through cables.

This one will help you with cross over cables http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethernet_crossover_cable the only difference on a cross over cable is 2 pairs are switched and the rest stay as the diagram STATES. What the difference is between them is "pairs 2 and 3 (orange and green) are swapped" that's it

Hope this you, MIKE

hartbeatmr

thanks I see the typo nowThanks for the posts, and thank you for the links Mike. The difference is a LOT clearer now. Thanks for taking the time to read and reply !!

B2

how Do I use a Proxy. IHAVE heard of them but not quite sure how to use oneIf your using someone elses proxy, you use the proxy's IP as the gateway IP. While some consider PROXIES EVIL to re-route traffic, I use to use Squid for caching frequently visited sites for dial-up user applications for pages to load quickly when visiting a webpage that doesnt change often. I then have a macro that surfs to frequently visited sites as a scheduled task to pre fetch the information to the cache so that when my friend goes to a web page that is part of this pre fetch he gets an ALMOST instant web page load as long as the content hasnt changed between the time of the pre fetch and the time when viewing the page. Now days he has a 3G tether to his PC for fast internet vs dial-up.There is a option of putting proxy address and the proxy port number in almost all kind of networking software. Such as browsers and downloaders. First you must have a proxy server address and a port number. In example my ISP gave me one. They said to use those to connect through internet. All I did was to put that address and the port number (I.E.172.16.0.254 wast the default gateway address and port number was 3128) in my INTERNET EXPLORER>tools>connections>Lan Settings>Proxy server.........

That's it. You just have to look for the option of the proxy server in every network servicing software....

Hope the answer of the question....

Thread Title: 802.11n or should I wait till the 802.11ac spec is final before buying a router?

I am thinking of putting Wifi in our house, and I figure if I am going to do that then I should set it up the fastest I could get it.

Lots of wireless routers out there, so I started doing some research and found that 802.11n is currently the latest, but 802.11ac will be much faster.

For the 802.11n routers, I think the WD My Net N900 HD Dual-Band Router might be the best bet, since it was designed specifically to accelerate movies, video and gaming, which I want.

http://wdc.com/en/company/pressroom/releases/?release=6baee492-de33-45ba-985e-81097f2b8d3f

Here is where I am confused, the 802.11ac standard won’t be issued till early 2013, yet I am seeing 802.11ac products like the Buffalo AirStation and NETGEAR R6300 on the market claiming they are 802.11ac – even though they can’t be ‘Wi-Fi CERTIFIED’ since the 11ac standard isn’t finalized yet.

This article has more info on the 802.11ac routers and Wifi Certified:

http://pusz4frog.wordpress.com/2012/08/03/the-newest-802-11ac-routers-dont-have-wi-fi-certification-and-why-you-should-wait-till-q2-of-2013-to-buy-a-11ac-router/

I would love 802.11ac now, but some of the reviews of these first 802.11ac product mention that they are based on a first draft of the 802.11ac spec, and might have some performance issues with products that are based on the final 802.11ac spec

Even though the WD 802.11n router is great, I feel it is best to wait on 802.11ac, since I have waited this long, another 6 month shouldn’t kill me.

Am I crazy for wanting to wait till early next year to buy an 802.11ac router?Unless you need data "Locally" asap on your HOME network 'N' is fine. B or G is good ENOUGH for most applications without feeling bottlenecked out to the internet. Your most liklely bottlenecked at 20MBPS or so with your ISP if broadband unless you opted for the Business Package for like 67MBPS for extra money. Still at the 67MBPS N is plenty!

If you have fiber to your home I am in awe that your bottlenecked at N to the WWW

In my opinion I never buy anything as soon as the technology drops to consumers. I let OTHERS be the guinea pigs and this saves me from buying troublesome hardware or into something that is replaced almost as soon as it hits the market. For reliability, quality, and saving money I have learned to stick with hardware that isnt cutting edge, but fast enough to get the job done and for a determined lifecycle before having to replace it to get the most out of it.


Quote

I think the WD My Net N900 HD Dual-Band Router might be the best bet, since it was designed specifically to accelerate movies, video and gaming, which I want

Hi all,

I am starting a new post though there are old ones on this topic. But I have some unique issues, and have very basic knowledge of networking, so a new post.

I want to establish a LAN with email in my office. I have about 20 users on win 7 and XP. I have network cards on all computers, switches with enough ports, LAN cables to all computers and Win Server 2003 on one computer. All this was done for me by a techie who was setting up my IT network, but quit before completing the job. I am not clear how much of the work has been done so far, but no mail or printer sharing is working.

I have another PECULIAR requirement. We also have an organizational WAN that has assigned ten static IP addresses for ten of my computers. I was told by the guy who was setting up my mail server, that these ten users who are on the organization WAN will need an additional network card on their computers to be able to work on my local network as well. These additional network cards have also been installed.

I need step by step help to get my LAN and local mail running. I need the 20 LAN users to be able to send mails amongst themselves, and not to any external user. I could start with some advice on how to CHECK if the network that has been ESTABLISHED is working. You would've guessed by now that this post will have a lots of questions coming later!Your going to want to take a look at the server and check that its accessible by all users.
Your then going to want to make sure the printer is connected either as a network printer, or to the server. If so, share it from the server.
If neither of these options are available look for a USB to RJ45 print server. Quite cheap.

Regarding emails, I'm assuming you wish to use Exchange? It may already be installed on the server... take a look, it could be as simple as putting settings into it.
If its not installed, look for installation media / product keys. Or buy a copy.

If you don't want to pay ... or use exchange, take a look at http://www.open-xchange.com/home.html

Hope this covers a few points... point out anything I missed, or add more details Thanks for your tips.

The server is accessible to all the users. I checked this by opening the Network Places in each of the users, and it shows the server PC on it. Is there any other way or a better way to check this?

I do want to use exchange. It is installed on the server. Can you put me through the settings that will get it running?

Thanks again.Don't know of a better way for XP PC's ... you could map the server as a drive for easier access though.

Setting up exchange - Single Server Topology

Pre-Installation
Make sure the server is a member of the domain the Exchange server is supposed to operate within.

Ensure that the Operating System is completely up to date and all updates / patches have been applied.

Ensure that the SMTP, NNTP & ASP.net Windows Server components are installed.

Ensure that the Windows Server Support Tools have been installed – these are on the Windows 2003 CD – \Support\Tools\suptools.msi.
Exchange Server Installation – Preparing the Forest & Domain
Log into the server using a domain administrator account that has Enterprise & Schema admin rights.

Place the Exchange CD in the drive. Autorun will launch with a splash screen for Resources & Deployment Tools. Select Deployment Tools.

Click on Deploy the First Exchange 2003 Server.

Click on New Exchange 2003 Installation.

Ensure that the server is operating properly and meets all of the Exchange requirements:
The first three requirements should be met – check these off.

Run dcdiag to ensure properly connectivity to the domain controller. The syntax to run this via a command prompt is dcdiag /s:DCNAME /f:dcdiag.txt – once run, review the dcdiag.txt file and ensure all tested were passed. If tests did not pass, correct the problem and re-run dcdiag before moving on. If everything looks good, check off this box and move on.

Run netdiag. The syntax is netdiag /l – this will print the results to netdiag.log – review this log for any errors. If errors appear, correct them and then re-run the test. If everything looks good, check off this box and move on.
Your Active Directory Forest must now be prepared so that it can support Exchange. Note that Forestprep should be run only once per AD Forest! Click on the Run Forestprep link.
If a compatibility warning message appears, click Continue.

Click Next.

Make sure you read the entire licensing agreement and memorize it – you will be tested on this later. If you agree to the agreement, click I Agree and then Next.

If prompted, enter your 25-digit CD key and then click Next.

The Component Installation screen should appear and it should say Forestprep under Action next to Microsoft Exchange.

Choose a different file location if you need to (use Browse).

Then click Next.

You will then be asked to provide an account to manage Exchange & delegate permissions with. It is recommended to leave the default administrator account here, click Next, and allow forestprep to run. Note that this will take some time and you should just leave the server alone. You do not want to interrupt this!

Click Finish when your forest preparation has completed. You can then check off this box in the pre-installation list.
You now have to run Domainprep in any domain that will host Exchange servers or Exchange users. Click the Run Forestprep Link.
If a compatibility warning message appears, click Continue.
Click Next. You may at this point or soon after be prompted with a message about the ‘Pre-Windows 2000 Compatible Access Security Group’ – basically, Exchange is warning you that you should make sure no users or groups are members of this group. So you can either check out this group now and remove any users or do it later – it will not stop you from installing Exchange.
The licensing agreement is presented again – click I Agree and then Next.
If prompted, enter your 25-digit CD key and then click Next.
The Component Installation screen should appear and it should say Domainprep under Action next to Microsoft Exchange.
Choose a different file location if you need to (use Browse).
Then click Next.
Domainprep will then run – it’s pretty quick, and once it has completed, click Finish to continue.
Congratulations! Your forest, domain & server are prepared for Exchange server to now be installed. You can then check off this box in the pre-installation check list, leaving you with only the last step unchecked.
Exchange Server Installation
In the pre-installation checklist, click the Run Setup Now link.
Click Next.

The licensing agreement is presented again – click I Agree and then Next.

If prompted, enter your 25-digit CD key and then click Next.

You will then be presented with the Component Installation Screen. Make sure the following appears:
Action: Typical for Component: Microsoft Exchange Server.

Action: Install for Component: Microsoft Exchange MESSAGING and Collaboration Services.

Action: Install for Component: Microsoft Exchange System Management Tools.
You can then change the installation path if needed. Note that once Exchange is up and running, you can move and separate your data & log files from one another on to different drives. Once everything is setup properly, click Next.

Select Create a New Exchange Organization and click Next.

Now type the name of the Exchange Organization that you chose. Make sure you choose the appropriate organization name – even in Exchange 2003 native mode, you can’t just rename the organization like any other object! Once you type the name, click Next.

Once again, you need to click I Agree to the licensing agreement and click Next.

You will then be presented with an installation summary. If everything looks good, click Next. The installation of the server will then run.

Once the installation has completed, click Finish. Guess what – you’ve now got your very own Exchange Server setup and running!
Post-Installation Tasks
Well now that Exchange Server has been successfully installed, you can take a vacation and everything will run correctly, right? Wrong. The following are some of the more important post-installation tasks that you will need to complete:
-Install the Latest Exchange Service Pack (SP2)
http://www.microsoft.com/technet/prodtechnol/exchange/downloads/2003/sp2/download.mspx
When installing SP2, make sure you review the release notes!
-Move Your Data / Streaming Files / Transaction Logs
http://www.petri.co.il/move_exchange_stores_to_a_different_disk.htm
-Setup Recipient Policy to receive mail for specific domains
http://www.petri.co.il/configure_exchange_2000_2003_to_receive_email_for_other_domains.htm
-Turn on Message Tracking and Mailbox Management
1. Launch Exchange System Manager.
2. Expand the Servers folder.
3. Right click on your server and click Properties.
4. Under the General tab, check Enable Message Tracking. You can also configure it to Remove log files associated with message tracking after a certain number of days.
5. Choose the Mailbox Management tab.
6. Choose when you want mailbox management to run and how to report.
7. Click Apply & Okay.
- Disable Unused Protocols
1. Launch Exchange System Manager.
2. Expand the Servers folder.
3. Expand the tree under your server and expand the Protocols folder.
4. Under each protocol folder, right click on the protocols you wish to disable and click Stop. It is recommended to disable POP3 / NNTP / IMAP4.Just a brief note.
In what area are you? Have you talked to local ISP companies.
For only 20 users, an in house mail server is, IMHO, and overkill.
You can get an off-premises mail server for a very low cost and have it set up to not allow mail going to other places. And it does not require any special skill on your part.
That is my observation. Doing a mail exchange in-house is , IMHO -
a Pain In The Afterburner.Good evening ganeshnag75 and welcome

The info that immental1200 gave is very DETAILED and correct. But in my opinion I am with Geek-9pm on this. I have customers that have pretty much your set (with and with out internet access) it takes a lot of time and testing for the server but more for "writes / permissions / disk quota's etc" and the exchange set up.

Here are a couple of things to answer your questions.

If you are setting all PC's up in a domain the OS's must be XP Pro and above and the same on Windows 7 they must be Pro and above in-order to join a Domain. If you are not joining a domain and this will be a "workgroup" setting? But with you saying they will not be sending e-mails out side and only in-between them self's I am assuming your set up will be a workgroup set-up?.

Because we cant see your network this can be hard to put in words but if all the printers have Nic's set a static IP on each printer to do this will very from printer to printer. Now if you have any USB printers and if everyone is going to use them they must be shared from the PC they are connected too to share a printer for xp Open Printers and Faxes Right-click the printer you want to share, and then click Sharing.
The options you see on the Sharing tab differ depending on whether sharing is enabled on your computer.

You need to enable printer sharing by running the Network Setup Wizard. Start it by clicking the link on the Sharing tab, and then follow the instructions. Once sharing is enabled, begin these steps below.

If you have or want to share a file off the server it too must be shared and once the file is shared on the server go to the PC's and map a drive. For XP or Windows 7 to map a drive "right click" computer icon and pick map a network drive, just pick a drive letter and then browse to it (the file) and put a check mark to "reconnect at log on.

But a question for you why the 10 static IP's?. Having a couple of static I understand (like 1 for server, 1 for different network etc) but why 10 static IP's for just 10 computers. If you have a router 1 static ip would be used for that and then the router would hand out DHCP IP's after that and you would not need the other 9. I am sorry I am asking as I don't know your reason / set-up.

Hopefully this helps you some more, if you need anything else please come back and if by some chance you are all set please come back and tell us. Thank you, Mike

Boy I wish I could see your set up it just would be so much easier Quote from: hartbeatmr on July 29, 2012, 01:26:53 AM

Good evening ganeshnag75 and welcome

The info that immental1200 gave is very detailed and correct. But in my opinion I am with Geek-9pm on this. I have customers that have pretty much your set (with and with out internet access) it takes a lot of time and testing for the server but more for "writes / permissions / disk quota's etc" and the exchange set up.

Here are a couple of things to answer your questions.

If you are setting all PC's up in a domain the OS's must be XP Pro and above and the same on Windows 7 they must be Pro and above in-order to join a Domain. If you are not joining a domain and this will be a "workgroup" setting? But with you saying they will not be sending e-mails out side and only in-between them self's I am assuming your set up will be a workgroup set-up?.

Because we cant see your network this can be hard to put in words but if all the printers have Nic's set a static IP on each printer to do this will very from printer to printer. Now if you have any USB printers and if everyone is going to use them they must be shared from the PC they are connected too to share a printer for xp Open Printers and Faxes Right-click the printer you want to share, and then click Sharing.
The options you see on the Sharing tab differ depending on whether sharing is enabled on your computer.

You need to enable printer sharing by running the Network Setup Wizard. Start it by clicking the link on the Sharing tab, and then follow the instructions. Once sharing is enabled, begin these steps below.

If you have or want to share a file off the server it too must be shared and once the file is shared on the server go to the PC's and map a drive. For XP or Windows 7 to map a drive "right click" computer icon and pick map a network drive, just pick a drive letter and then browse to it (the file) and put a check mark to "reconnect at log on.

But a question for you why the 10 static IP's?. Having a couple of static I understand (like 1 for server, 1 for different network etc) but why 10 static IP's for just 10 computers. If you have a router 1 static ip would be used for that and then the router would hand out DHCP IP's after that and you would not need the other 9. I am sorry I am asking as I don't know your reason / set-up.

Hopefully this helps you some more, if you need anything else please come back and if by some chance you are all set please come back and tell us. Thank you, Mike

Boy I wish I could see your set up it just would be so much easier

Many thanks to immental1200, hartbeatmr and Geek-9pm.

My company policy does not permit me to have a off-premises mail server as suggested by Geek-9pm, that's why I'm into this struggle!!

I have got my mail server running, thanks to all your inputs. Despite my success, I still consider myself shaky in networking stuff, so I'll just go over what I have done and invite comments if anything needs to be changed or improved.

I installed server 2003, and choose typical settings for the roles of the server. It installed DNS and DHCP servers. I got Exchange server 2003, but it was not licensed. While waiting to get a licensed copy, I came to know of xeams server on google, and decided to give it a try.

The installation was quite out of the box, and I had my mail server (IMAP, SMTP) running in no time. It seems to be a no frills server, but meets my requirements quite well.

I have not joined a domain and have stayed on a workgroup setup. I assigned a static IP address to the server (10.0.0.1), and on the clients allowed auto assigning, and it is working fine.

So far I have just got all my 20 odd computers on the mail server. The second part of the problem, where I have to connect 10 out of these PCs onto a second network, which assigns static IPs, I'm yet to try out.

Let me see if I can make my structure look clear. My Headquarters is the one assigning the 10 static IPs to me, for the PCs that need to be on their network as well. I don't think I have the liberty of changing that.

I would invite comments on my setup so far. If all is fine, I will take the next step of getting the 10 PCs on the second network as well.

I apologise in advance as this post is probably not going to make much sense, I'm none to savvy with networking and routers.

Anyway, the situation is that a friend of mine hosts a webpage from a computer of his. Now usually this works just fine but occasionally people (so not just myself) will not be able to connect with that webpage or anything else from that server. Everyone just receives a connection timed out error. I do not know if everyone is blocked together at once or if it is individual. What I do know is that if a connection has been established then it is fine until a new connection is needed.

E.g. If I was downloading something the DOWNLOAD would complete without a problem, but if the LOCK out problem occurs, I would be unable to connect to the html page after the download completed.

His internet provider is Virgin Media and as such is using their super hub router.

So any suggestions as to what the problem might be would be greatly appreciated. We have been racking our brains but can't think of why this keeps HAPPENING.
Good morning Accessless and welcome back to CH

Well I can only speculate but it sounds like the router is getting over loaded. Like to many IP CONNECTIONS coming in. The super hub is really just a home style router and nothing more and may not be able to handle the heavy loads at times.

Is his home internet connection is a fiber / cable / DSL?

HOPE to hear from you soon, Mike Quote from: hartbeatmr on September 01, 2012, 01:45:31 AM

Good morning Accessless and welcome back to CH

Well I can only speculate but it sounds like the router is getting over loaded. Like to many IP connections coming in. The super hub is really just a home style router and nothing more and may not be able to handle the heavy loads at times.

Is his home internet connection is a fiber / cable / DSL?

Hope to hear from you soon, Mike

Sorry about my last post That I couldn't post well

Well, I am using a broadband connection and I don't know how to forward my port

My Ip address is 172.16.0.81 and Default Gateway is 172.16.0.254

Again my external ip shows 223.27.113.3 but I use my DNS server IP is 223.27.112.253 and Secondary IP address is 8.8.8.8

I don't know how to forward my port because it's not as simple as I go type 192.168.1.1 as every single video showed in youtube........

I tried contact with my ISP and they are the most stupid person in the whole world as they say they never heard anything about port forwarding and they won't tell me the router or the modem name as it is against their policies

Please don't suggest me about port forwarding because I even have the port forwarding software......... But I still don't know what is my modem or router name........................ I attached a pic of my pc showing configuration..............

So can anyone help me with my port forwarding PROBLEM??

I will be very much in debt..................

Best regards

IORI




[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]i forgot where the oftware. but u must install a port forwarding software n do many thing after that. but the advice i can give here it will make your computer more vulnerable to any kind of attack from virus to hacker. so in most forum that i get help in the past they state that in bold so that u will be very cautions to what u doing. so maybe other will give u guide later, but from past experience it not that good to do that n the speed gain n not faster from what u subscribe. it only bypass ur provider capping only n not let u have unlimited speed for example. so only do if u know what u dealing with n STAY away if u just heard other achieve speed n such with port forwarding. only experience user are safe to do this since they know the tip and trick to got thing back in shape if something wrong.I dont think the poster above me understands what you're doing.

He is right about security problems, but thats it.

type 172.16.0.254 into your internet explorer of choice, and all your modem information should be in the menus somewhere.that weird... are u alter ur post?... n no i dont mistake it... but the post i see way different from this ONE.. so i'm out of the blue... that why i give my opinion about the security since i forgot where i download the software for port fowarding n my pc is still broken. so i'm not mistaken or anything. but i'm out of info to help since i dont have my pc n lot of info contains in it. so i dont know how to help u out on this.. what exactly u need to do. if u state more clearly what u want to do, the better other will help. what ur problem now, what u are trying to do, n many more info about what u want. if u want to bypass the provider firewall and get max speed then just like poster above said, change ur ip address or what. sorry i cant help better since my resource of info cannot be accessed in this time.I tried the 172.16.0.254 but it didn't work......

Again even if I was afraid of being hacked I wouldn't post my IP details .......


I want to see if any one greater than rookie can help......

best regards

IoriQuote from: Iori3310 on June 19, 2012, 11:17:20 PM

I don't know how to forward my port because it's not as simple as I go type 192.168.1.1 as every single video showed in youtube........

Please don't suggest me about port forwarding because I even have the port forwarding software.........

Again even if I was afraid of being hacked I wouldn't post my IP details .......

I tried contact with my ISP and they are the most stupid person in the whole world as they say they never heard anything about port forwarding and they won't tell me the router or the modem name as it is against their policies

Can I connect BSNL 3G net-setter (USB modem) in my Android tablet ( HP ME ).. SEEKING a IMMEDIATE help...I have USED Connectify before and have found it compatible on any wifi devices. Just MAKE sure you have the compatible Windows edition : http://support.connectify.me/entries/20307637-does-connectify-run-on-windows-vista-or-windows-xp

Dear Experts,

My internet is graded A by pingtest.net BUT since I LIVE in India, I experience a lot of lag and high ping while playing game servers, since most are situated abroad. So I wanted to maximise my speed without having to change my internet connection.

I think a great step ahead would be by stopping unnecessary programs from using the internet especially when they are not in use. I use Wireshark but I don't really understand how it works because it does not let me stop the programs from using up my bandwith. I have realised that utorrent is using up a lot of my bandwith despite not downloading anything. How can I stop this?

My pingtest results are 0% packet loss, 15ms ping and 1ms jitter, but this was with a server real close to me in Mumbai. But when I tried again with some server in Chicago, I got D with 2% packet loss, 303 ms ping and 46ms jitter. So how can I reduce ping?Good morning XtrGamer

A lot of this is out of your control if you are getting "My pingtest results are 0% packet loss, 15ms ping" local by you but when you check over seas and "But when I tried again with some server in Chicago, I got D with 2% packet loss, 303 ms ping and 46ms jitter. So how can I reduce ping?" if I am not mistaken the internet when it comes from your country to the US it is done with Big Sat dish and if that is the case Sat dishes always have much higher ping times and latency.

Also when you join a game room and lets say there is 4 people in the room. Person 1 has 10 mb connection with 25ms ping, Person 2 has has 8 mb connection with 35ms ping & Person 3 has 1.5mb connection with a 350ms ping & person 4 has 15 mb connection with 15ms ping then everyone in that room will slow down to person 3 speeds. Another words the slowest person dictates the speed in a lot of the game servers room.

When you go to join a game room look for game room that have as close as possible to your speeds will help you a lot. Also personally my self (as I don't trust) any torrent P2P programs I would UN-install it. You can get all kinds of virus etc even if you are not downloading anything because those ports are always open / leaching off of you. Now wire-shark is very handy to see what IP connections you have etc it really is not going to help you by stopping anything if that is what you mean. All it really does is monitor your connections.

Hopefully this helps you, Mike

PS i can not give you any advice on your torrent program other than in my opinion to remove it. Thank you for your help.Good afternoon XtrGamer and welcome back to CH

You are very welcome.

Have a nice DAY, Mike Quote from: hartbeatmr on August 23, 2012, 10:11:15 AM

if I am not mistaken the internet when it comes from your country to the US it is done with Big Sat dish

I've been playing with this all day. I have my original cable company router running to my linksys router and then to my win7 desktop. I finally got my desktop to identify the linksys but I'm not getting Internet to the linksys. I know there's gotta be some kind of settings to be changed but where and which ones?

Reasons for this set up:
I don't have a cable long enough to reach the BEC modem
My personal wifi NETWORK for file sharing to HAND held devices.
I restarted the pc and now the network is unidentified again. What is your ISP modem/router(?) and Linksys model? What cable do you mean not long enough?ISP Router: BEC Technologies: BEC 7402GT
Linksys: BEFW11S4

And I was just saying the ethernet cable isn't long enough to run from the first router to the desktop.Good evening gamerx365 and welcome back to CH

From reading your post am I safe to assume that the "ISP's" router is already in place? or did you just hook this back up.

If this router was already in place did your ISP give you a static IP? or DHCP

So is the ISP's router set for PPPoE? and you have a user name and password from them? and you are on DSL service?

Do you have DSL filters on all phones and answer machines?

Here is the manual for the ISP's router http://www.bectechnologies.net/main/support/usermanual/BEC_7402Series_UM.pdf The default user name is admin and the password is admin with a IP 192.168.1.254
Here is the manual for the Linksys router just scroll down to user GUIDE and download the PDF http://homesupport.cisco.com/en-us/support/routers/BEFW11S4 The default user name is left blank and the password is admin and the IP is 192.168.1.100

All network cables (Cat cables) must be straight through and no cross over cables.

Is the Linksys router set as Router or AP etc?

Also both the ISP's router and the Linksys router DHCP tables are almost the same. So they are both trying to do the same job of handing out address wired and wireless.
The DHCP for linksys goes from 192.168.1.100 to 192.168.1.149
The DHCP for the BEC goes from 192.168.1.100 to 192.168.1.199

In the computer world's address is kind of like a house address and no TWO can be the same if they were none of us would ever get are mail at are houses the same holds true for computers.

Your issue sound like it is a configuration issue of the two wireless routers.

Sorry I am not trying to throw to much at you all at once.

Hopefully some of this helps you, if we can be any more help please let us know, Mike



Thank you

Yes, the ISP router is in place and set up to work with my current network.
DHCP is enabled on this.
Not sure about PPPoE but I assume yes.
The default 'admin' 'admin' worked to log in.
DSL is a yes.
never heard of setting DSL filters on phones/answering machines.

The linksys now, I don't know about AP. The two options it shows are gateway / router and gateway is selected.

I'm sure you're right about the configuration, I just need to know how to MAKE the needed changes to allow the desktop to address from the linksys router rather than, none at all.

In addition, I'm having an old desktop set up as a server I want to patch into the same router. Just throwing that out there.Try this link http://www.togaware.com/linux/survivor/Router_Router.html

I am in College, and they have campuswide Wi-Fi. I thought this would be a good thing, as it would let me SSH in to my Linux BOX and do work there. Except it keeps disconnecting from the network, and PuTTY keeps complaining from this. I have isolated the problem to the network's 15 minute DHCP lease time, and I don't know if the IT department can or will change it. I've already tried, and static IP addresses don't seem to work. So now I wonder if there is a WAY to request, from the DHCP server, a minimum lease time to use. I don't want to keep reconnecting to the network evry 15 minutes, and I keep hanging SSH sessions because of this.Good evening Cricket_Lover and welcome back to CH

In a SHORT answer no if they have it set to refresh the IP ever 15 min unless you have access to the routers interface to make the changes you are STUCK.

I know that this is not what you wanted to know, Mike

why does the lights blink (sometimes) on my NETGEAR 600 router when my COMPUTER is shut down?Good evening sonny1935 and welcome to CH

If your PC is shut down or is it really just sleeping? I am assuming that your PC is a laptop or a desktop that has wireless? If the PC is just sleeping it will still have some activity.

Maybe you have something else that is on wireless connection like a CELL phone, or another WAP / AP (wireless access POINT or access point)

Hope this HELPS, Mike

hey guys
my brother bought himself a fancy NEW desktop a while back, DECIDED to put it together himself (and failed miserably) and among other things he never managed to get his internet working. Before researching his internet problems, he assumed our router was crappy and he went out and bought a new router as well as a new card for his desktop (the router is hooked up downstairs, his computer is a floor higher).
His computer never got working, but that is an issue for a separate thread entirely.
The task fell to me to set up the new router/network.
The router itself is a Asus RT-N53
The modem im using is a Motorola SB5102
my desktop is running windows 7 enterprise 32-bit (im no sure what other info i should include?)
I followed the instructions for the setup of the router, and i more or less got it working.

The Problems:
However it is obviously not set up optimally.
-My desktop computer is directly hardlined into the router, and about once a week (maybe more, im not using my comp that much atm seeing as its summer) MY internet will completely crap out and i have to restart the modem/router/my computer several TIMES before it all comes back online.
-further, my ps3, which is 7 feet away from the router, receives awful signal strength (1 bar usually). I dont think its our ISP because before all this router switching bs i had a lesser-quality router and i had full signal strength on the ps3. Even if i run a hardline to the router from the ps3, things dont improve a whole bunch and at times i still find myself with one bar of strength
-god forbid my brother try and go online with his ps3 at the same time mine does, he wont get anything in the way of signal strength in that case (YET before we both could rather effortlessly). His ps3 is also a floor above the router, but this never seemed to be a factor with the old router.
-also, the router is "dual band" (whatever that means, i dont know jack about internet stuff haha; could someone explain this?) and i did set up two connections or w.e as per the installation instructions for the router; one is "supposed" to be optimized for gaming and cellphone-internet use, though between the two networks there is no difference in signal strength/quality whatsoever.
-despite my personal opinions of this new "better" router, the salesman assured my brother this one was miles ahead of our old one and would kick the crap out of it performance-wise. i beg to differ atm

My Questions:
-could someone point me in the direction of a walkthrough (if it exists) on how to completely reset one's network
-also could someone help me with this "4g -dual band" sutff? what does it mean/do?
-i would also like a walkthrough/tutorial/help on how exactly to set up this stupid router to optimize it for the different uses/applications (the original installer said one network should be set up for general internet use/computers and the other network should be for downloading/online gaming/cell phone use)

if i need to include anything else please let me know!

thanks guys!Many of these so called high performance routers have firmware which is not fully developed or just plain bad. Your router is on the SUPPORT list for open source DD-WRT which means you could try reflashing it. Best to do this while still under warranty in case you "brick" the router. I found most of the links for you. BTW, this is not for the "faint of heart", but not difficult if you study all the docs before attempting a flash.

http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Supported_Devices#Asus
http://www.asus.com/Networks/Wireless_Routers/RTN53/
http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Installation
http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=1&sid=20cf4c296ed23090e2e3774f35ba6f7b
Here is thread on your model: http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=150707&highlight=rtn53
Scanning the posts shows many have problems with this model, good luck!

BTW, if you could return it, I would get a refund, now.Quote from: kamikaze33 on July 07, 2012, 01:00:26 PM

The router itself is a Asus RT-N53
The modem im using is a Motorola SB5102

Looking to cut monthly Comcast Bill, ....BUT ... I am thinking that I should stick with 25/5 bandwidth, but am curious as to if anyone else here is on 6/1 bandwidth or lower who can share there experiences with the lower bandwidth and have Vonage + 1 or more devices that are streaming content without any problems?

*Comcast raised our rates once again back in Feb, and it wasnt caught until now, and they also removed a channel from our basic cable package the other day moving it to a higher cost service package that was the only channel watched in our home. With this change there is no need to pay the extra for the Cable TV and I will be ditching it and just sticking with internet.

Quote

Chatted with Comcast Live Support last night and they offered the following stand alone internet packages:

Economy Basic Internet for $34.99 for 3MB/768kb
Another package for $49.99 for 6MB/1MB
Premium package for $64.99 for 25MB/5MB (*This is my current internet bandwidth )

Our usage is heavy at times with the following concurrent use:

- Online Gaming ( 0 to 3 systems playing online games at the same time *Mostly MMORPGs )
- Vonage Telephone (VOIP) use ( Just 1 phone call at any one time, *but phone isnt used much )
- Netflix, Hulu, or Youtube ( 0 to 3 devices/systems using this service at the same time )

Thanks Salmon for response to this, and you are very lucky to have that kind of bandwidth for just $55.

for me it's ~60$ CDN for TV, Internet, and Phone. It's a mid-range Package as I understand it

Here in the states this is what my bills use to be...

- Fairpoint Telephone $65 landline ( even if you dont use the phone long distance or much at all )
- Cable TV + Internet $71 ( a few years ago) (* Broadband was $45.95 and the Cable TV was the remaining $25 and I bought my own $53 Motorola modem to avoid the monthly $5 modem lease fee. )
- Verizon Cell Phone $130 ( 2 phones rarely used, mainly for emergency and calls to check on what we need for food while food shopping etc )

All this came to $266 a month +/- taxes that fluctuate that are rolled in for $1.18 here and 98 cents there which varies month to month (*almost like someones pockets X everyone who has these services )

Overall my bills today for Cable TV, Phone, Cell Phone, and Internet are:

$15 a month for 2 cell phones that work really well, but are basic cell phones ( TracPhones )
$30 a month for Vonage (*They raised their prices some since I started with them)
$87 a month for Cable TV with no good channels and Broadband 25/5

for $132 a month +/- tax variations

Personally I think it's getting a bit crazy.

The Gillard government’s decision to lock in fibre to the home technology for the majority Australians has been questioned by United States experts, as the debate over the contentious $37.4 billion project intensifies in the lead up to the federal election.

Under Labor’s broadband POLICY, 93 per cent of Australian homes and businesses will get fibre-to-the-premises technology as Telstra’s copper network is gradually replaced over the next decade. The technology is capable of delivering speeds of up to one gigabit per second. The remaining 7 per cent of the population will be covered by fixed wireless or satellite services.

A recent European Commision study found that 82 per cent of EU citizens who have broadband internet access at home are unwilling to pay more for a faster connection. Nearly half cited price as their top consideration.

I once bought a 40 mega byte hard drive. Thought it would be a long time before I needed anything else.

I am having a problem with one of my LAPTOPS. On this laptop my signal strength is the highest it can be but on the other one (which is right next to the first one) has the lowest strenght that you can have and STILL have any kind of connection. Please help!
laptop 1 runs windows xp and laptop 2 runs windows 7What are the Make/models of the laptops?

When did this problem start happening?

Have you installed the latest drivers for the WIFI NIC on the laptop that is sensing a weak signal?

Have you popped open the panel exposing the WIFI NIC to see if the antenna cable is properly attached ( snapped on )?

Has this laptop been damaged in any way to where the antenna may be damaged internally?The antenna wire may be broken or it is badly positioned.
More the laptops to DIFFERENT LOCATIONS. Do not have them within two meters, about 6 feet, of each other.

Also, reduce radio power level on the one with more bars

Hi guys,

so my problem is that i am LOSING connection every 1 hour for about 2-5 sec and comeback... the modem stay online and the light stay all there.

i am Hard Wire.

ISP tell me NOTHING they can do cause they DONT see problem.

it is getting very annoying...

Windows 7 64bit
amd fx-8150
hd7850
12gb ram.

Help me plz..

Thank youTried another LAN cable or have RUN scans with your antivirus lately?

i have recently upgraded our wifi router to a dlink dir-826l. now, when we are connected to this router either from an iphone, ipod touch, or even our laptop, when we search our location for maps or LOCAL WEATHER, PHONE numbers and such, and even when it shows our location on facebook it says we are in spring hill, nevada. We are in Kentucky. so it is way off. I have done an ISP locator and it is showing our correct location. I have even contacted our isp and they said it wasn't on their end. Ive sent skyhook a change request with no luck either. How can i fix this? It is throwing our time off, messing with our parental controls that are time sensitive. Please HELP...Can you post these software or websites that determines specific location like http://www.ip2location.com/? Just got to read on this from the news recently. Is this your router? http://www.dlink.com/-/media/Consumer_Products/DIR/DIR%20826L/Manual/DIR826lManualUS.pdf

http://kyeos.wordpress.com/2013/05/10/warning-if-you-take-photos-with-your-cell-phone/

My computer will not access ceratin websites that require a username and password. Example, I can get to the initial site www.mytestbook.com, but when I enter the username and password the page just refreshes again WITHOUT going to the next page. I had someone else try the access on their computer and it worked fine so I know the username and password are correct. Any insight is greatly appreciated!!! THANKS MUCH!1. Try registering another account and TEST it by logging again.
2. Try different browsers in accessing the website.
3. Make sure you are clearing CACHE or temporary internet files once in a while.
4. Some protection softwares have real-time protection/web scanner capability as added features, try disabling this option.Cookies are probably switched off, without which you will not be able to log on to many websites. Re-enable them. (If you need instructions, please advise which web browser you're using.)

Hi there,

If a PORT on a switch is disabled should it still be placed in a blackhole vlan for security purposes? I'm thinking yes but I just thought I'd check.

Thanks,
B2 I entitled this RSTP - LAYER 2 switching because I was going to ask another question but then CHANGED it to this lol I should have changed the title. I am working on RSTP layer 2 switching just now actually so that's PROBABLY why

i cannot open any website or some website. when i try to open it shows dns server is not responding and after some time when i try to connect it will connect and aftr some again same problem it will not open i tried to change the dsn number but it did not help
i have a wifi connection
and wn i use my lap for other wifi network it will work fine
can any 1 help plz??
You have a laptop, it has Windows 7.
Some Wi-Fi places work good. Nut you have trouble at home? At work?
Did this just start to happen?
Have you recently added any new software?
Anything new makes unknown changes. This often happens with 'free' or 'trail' software.

Can you get to following sites?

http://abc.com
http://bbc.co.uk
http://bing.com
http://google.com
http://geek9pm.com
http://msn.com
http://yahoo.com

If these sites work OK, but you have issues with other sites, the problem is not a setting you can change inside your laptop.thank u very much for UR reply
yes i hv win 7
hv trouble at home
i RECOVERED my laptop but still its same
and the link wich u SEND me its not opening
sometimes it will open some websites and some times it will not open nd some times it will not open any website
for sometime it will not open anything and after smtime it will open evrything
When did this start?
Did it used to work good at home last week?
Did you install new software?
Did you change something?
Did you move something from one end of the House to the other end?
Is the internet service from a telephone line?
Is the internet service from a cable television?
Did you call the company that SOLD you the internet service?
What kind of equipment did they give you?

Hi there,

I connected two computers together. I would like to know how I can log in from computer B's account on computer A. How can I achieve this?

ALSO, my current network is a public network. Would it matter if I changed it into a home or work network? What's the difference?

I am also confused with domain, workgroup and computer names. I know that a domain name is used in client/server networks and workgroup in a P2P network. However, what is the computer name used for? I ask this because I found that to log in with another user, I have to first enter "V000002046\" before I input the user name. I have seen that on other computers, it is not NECESSARY. Some just type in their username and pass, but why do I NEED to do this?

Lastly, is it possible to access computer B's public documents using computer A without needing to enter computer B's username and password before being ABLE to access it?

Thanx for reading.Quote

Also, my current network is a public network. Would it matter if I changed it into a home or work network? What's the difference?

Or vice versa?

because IM going to buy this
http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/microsoft-wireless-optical-desktop-3000-mfc-00003-english/10125535.aspx

says its 30 ft, i heard that wifi RECEPTION can ruin the reception RANGE, is this true?No interference.TY, I just needed that CONFIRMATION.

So here's the deal:
I have a awus036h wifi usb adapter,i had it for a few months,maybe a YEAR and during all that time it worked perfectly,as fast as you can expect from this adapter.
but a few months ago it started to go slow,terribly slow even failing to connect sometimes.
I haven't made any significant CHANGES to my PC and I'm pretty sure no one is stealing my connection,if i try to download anything it stops downloading after a few seconds,also IVE noticed that it goes even slower if i am doing something else example:if i minimize a game to take a look to a walkthrough.
I'm not sure if this is a problem of the adapter since my usb ports aren't working properly either,i cant use any mass storage devices,the PC detects them and i can see WHATS inside but if i try to move anything it freezes and sometimes i have to restart my PC,but if i use something else via usb,say a wireless controller it works fine.
i have used malwarebytes,mcafee total protection and others and nothing seems to work.
I have tried other adapters,and tried to connect to other networks,and while this problem persists no matter what i do a friend can come to my place with his laptop and connect to my network without any problems...
PLEASE HELP,IM GETTING DESPERATE.

note:I'm not sure if this post goes here or in the hardware section,but since what i truly want to fix is the adapter i think this is the right place to ask.Hi

It would seem that the problem is the USB instead of the wifi adapter. There is a program called usbview that allows you to view all the devices that are plugged in or have been plugged into your usb ports. deleting all the devices in the list and then allowing them to reload often fixes this problem.
This is the link to download
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_devices_view.html
Also as it is a data transfer issue it could be an interupt conflict but try that program and let us know if the problem is still there after clearing out all the usb devices.

Lisa

I did what Lisa said but nothing changed,i still have to see if i can now use mass storage devices since i don't have any to try right now,but nothing changed about the adapter.
Also i will add that I'm using windows 7 64 and that I've tried win xp 32 booting from a different hdd and there was no difference.PROBLEM SOLVED,the problem is that i did so many things that i dont know how i fixed it lol.

I have just setup a Netgear WG111v3 USB adapter on my desktop in the next room, which is not my main computer and it WORKED OK when first installed, when I start up now I have to find my network then enter the network key before I can use it. mber in. Can anyone tell me howI can stop all this.
Ken
Have you configured your password or pre-shared key on the USB Adapter?

You must enter the default key password on your wifi adapter matching the security setup from your HOME network.
Look also for an option to checkmark > Connect automatically when this network is in range. Thanks for your reply. yes I have done that and it that has also STARTED coming back, where abouts would I find the check mark for connect automatically?
I am going to uninstall it and the reinstall and see what happens and I willm come back.Quote

Look also for an option to checkmark > Connect automatically when this network is in range.

We moved a couple of weeks ago and our internet was put in today. Up until now (and currently), I have been using a dongle. My dad has set up all of the other computers in the house so that they can access the internet provided by our router, it was a simple MATTER as it showed the connection on the little available connections box and so he clicked on that, entered the code and such and that was that. Then he got to mine. My computer is not showing any wirless connections at all, and according to my Dad, a lot of them come up. I've completely updated my computer and we've tried looking around. My specs are as follows: PC: Acer Aspire AX3300, OS: Windows 7 home premium 64-bit, CPU: AMD Athlon ll X4.
I had no problems connecting when I first got my pc in our last home, I don't REMEMBER what we did, but I remember it being very simple and easy to do.
For further reference, this is what appears when I go on the thing to see connections:
Still showing the dongle connections I've used over the past few days:


UPLOADED with ImageShack.us
After I deleted the connections to see if they were making a difference:


Uploaded with ImageShack.usthe dongle is a 3G one that connects to cellular networks, not wifi routers...
the "Unidentified Network" leads me to assume that your computer is connected via ethernet cable to the router. If so, "No network access" means that the router isn't configured properly. If you want to access wifi networks on your PC, you will need to get a wifi card-internal wifi cards tend to output stronger signal.Realised my parents hadn't properly connected my internet plug
Quote from: Transfusion on SEPTEMBER 05, 2011, 11:21:26 AM

the dongle is a 3G one that connects to cellular networks, not wifi routers...
the "Unidentified Network" leads me to assume that your computer is connected via ethernet cable to the router.

I live in a small town and the isp here is lousy..is it possible to connect my pc to the net using wifi..is there some gear I can get to do this and what would it cost me?No. Wi-Fi is limited to short range coverage. Although long ange is posible, it is not very pratical for most of us.

Your alternatives are:
A. Using a nsatelite system. Very pricy.
B. CHECK nwith the CABLE TV company in your area.
C. SEE if your area is or nwill be servied by a braodband service such a s cell-phone servie.

A relative lives in a very small town, poulation 1500, and gets ngood internet nbecase he is on a hill and can get into the cell-phone system.

For example:
High Speed Internet for Rural Areas -Verizon forum
Unhapply, that indicidualjust lives in the wrong spot. You might want to check out the Verizon forum and see what others are doing. If there is any kind of high spot in your are where cell-service works, you and your neighbos can talk about a short range nrepeater into your are. If enough people wasnt it, they might do it.I was at wonder how to .com and found a place the showed how to build a unit that connects to the WiFi antenna that in CREASES the range, You would need a wireless dish, copper wire-12 gauge and cable and connectors. I have built them and they do work. But it all depends how close the receivers are.
arendt781

Hi there,

I just started studying the basics of networking and I am having trouble with comparing P2P networks with server networks. I understand that in a P2P network, all the computers are independent and can share data with each other. However, a computer in this network can also act as a "server". Example, it can have a printer connected to it, providing a service to other computers connected to the same network. But it can also act as a client when it seeks information from other computers in the same network. In a client/server network, a server is used that provides a service to the other clients. What I don't understand is that when is a network considered a server based network. I mean, I can just use a computer to act as a server. If this is the case then does that mean it is a server based network now? Or what else am I missing?

Please don't respond with complex questions.

THANX in advance.Quote

What I don't understand is that when is a network considered a server based network. I mean, I can just use a computer to act as a server. If this is the case then does that mean it is a server based network now? Or what else am I missing?

Pretty much. To put it simply, a server is effectively a machine that serves something (files, data, a connection) to other machines, but doesn't receive anything back.

Aah, so you cannot actually upload data to a server?

Also, can clients on a server based network communicate with each other? Say I want something from a client, can I just directly communicate with that client and extract what I want from that client?

And lastly, does a server in a server based network have to be dedicated?

You can, I should've said it doesn't receive resources. Although, that's not entirely correct, you could have a server sharing an internet connection with another server which shares printers to the rest of the network, I was just simplifying. But that's what differentiates a P2P from a client/server network, the fact that in a P2P network every client is also a server.

Yes, assuming the client has permission to send to the server. I've made a bit of a hash explaining this in general, sorry, had a long day.

In all honesty, if you're the kind of person who can study from a book, you may find that will help you understand it a little more. That's how I got it all straight in my head, because before that I understood the concept but I found reading it helped me really get my head around it. I had an A+ and Network+ study book, for when I took my A+ exam (but never went for my Network+ because they changed the way the exams worked).

I am unable to open some specific websites. I have tried using IE,FIREFOX and CHROME. I have tried using my desktop, laptop, android phone(laptop and phone wifi). The websites are : http://store.steampowered.com/ , http://www.homeshop18.com/ , http://www.speedtest.net/ . There are other websites also. my modem is NETGEAR n150. Please help.Please avoid posting links if possible.
You search to a place where banned web sites are listed

Example:Pentagon Blocks Access to SOUTHERN Baptist Website
Or :
The World’s Most Blocked Websites
Russia to classify list of banned websites
Websites blocked in the People's Republic of China
Has America banned any websites that contains some political matters?
Even:
Quote

The U.S. HOUSE introduced a rogue websites bill to force Internet Service Providers to make a list of banned websites and prevent access to their sites...

Trying to login to wireless router but I get taken to verizon westell modem FFS, modem is run to network switch which is run to a pc and to the router which itself runs to another pc. Lights on router indicate its connected to the internet however the pc its going to is not ABLE to access the internet, VLAN is setup and working on the modem, first pc, console and second pc until the router middlemanned, now no connectivity for pc2 and router not accessible, no disc came with this POS. Internet forum suggested 192.168.1.1 takes me to westell modem not the router.Your router is set to AP mode. Try rebooting your router and unplugging the ethernet cable from the LAN port, then enter 192.168.1.1 in your web browser.What TYPE of modem do you have(modem or a combo modem and wireless router in one)? What brand/model is the router being extended? And which PC(s) is not being able to connect? Transfusion's SUGGESTION worked but I think I will take this one back to TARGET and get the TWO hundred dollar one anyway.

Below is my customer's PROBLEM from using my POS: A-POS & B-POS. The two POS are almost the same. When they booted from PXE server, they got different result. COULD anyone GIVE me comments or hints about the cause?

I have a problem with the A-POS in combination with the PXE boot function on the Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller.
We have a deployment tool called “Semper Continuity Suite” (see also http://www.sempersoftware.com/products/semper-continuity-suite )
who is working with a PXE boot server.
Normaly after a reboot the system becomes a IP address from the DHCP server and the system is booting up into the Semper software suite
for collecting data. After collecting data from the system, the system is booting up into the OPERATING system.

After booting up the system with Bootoption #1 Realtek PXE B02 D00, the system becomes a IP address from the DHCP server.
Now the system GIVES an error message “Crypto key from 10.101.185.234” with “Retrying” a couple of times..
Normally the system must boot up with the Semper application after having the DHCP address.

The B-POS don’t have this problem and is working with the same Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller, on the same network/server.

Bios information A-POS;
BIOS Vendor : American Megatrends
Core Version : 4.6.4.1
Compliancy : UEFI 2.1
Project Version : H61AP.F3b X64
Build date and time : 08/16/2012 18:23:14

Bios information B-POS;
BIOS Vendor : American Megatrends
Core Version : 4.6.4.1
Compliancy : UEFI 2.1
Project Version : H61AP.F3b X64
Build date and time : 11/07/2012 14:37:56

Boot option #1 : Realtek PXE B02 D00
Network card : Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Series v2.45 (12/30/11)
DHCP IP address : 10.101.185.234

Do you know a solution for this problem?
Why does the B-POS still working and the A-POS don’t?

can someone tell me please what a http server error is and how do i get the site to come on? A server error MEANS that the problem lies with the webpage server/internet connection, not your web browser...Are you seeing an error code - like 501, PLUS a message of some sort? There are lots of different HTTP errors and the problems don't always lie with the web site. A 505 for EXAMPLE could be caused by a fault at either end - in browser or in web server.

I just created a connection and a friend connected to it. I have enabled sharing on the advance network settings. The system SHOWS connected but I cannot access the public folder of the system connected to my network. I cannot even SEE the system on my networks. I don't know what is wrong. Can some one help me. I want to send something from my harddrive to his. My system is windows 7 and his is windows 7 too.Public Folder Permissions likely need exceptions to allow him to access yours and you to access his.

What I like to do when it comes to sharing data between 2 or more systems is make a shared folder at say C:\Data_Share$ and Map to it from other computers so that C:\Data_Share$ on the host computer is say the Z: drive on all other systems that access it. You then can place data into this location for all other workstations to access or the workstations can place data at this shared location and you then have a copy of what they are sharing .... which is hopefully legal to share. $ hides the share btw so its not out in the open, but can be accessed by Start -> Search via typing in the path of C:\Data_Share$

These days with USB DRIVES, I just use an external drive or USB pendrive to transfer anything important via sneaker network. The only time I create shares is when the share is permanent to be used more than once etc such as if I am using ANOTHER computers extra space for redundant backup across 2 computers etc.ok. But I want to know why those computers connected to my network does not show in my Networks. This means we are connected but not really connected.They will probably show up if FIREWALLS are shut off.Ok I thought so too. But on shutting down my firewall, I still experience the same thing. Can you please illustrate how I can successfully connect another system to mine from the beginning. I also temporarily shared my hard drive so I could access the file directly from the other system because the file I want to transfer is very large.

Hello,

I have been happily using my Linksys WRT54G2 wireless router for several years. It's connected to my PC via Ethernet, and sometimes I connect to it wirelessly with a laptop. I never have any issues with this connection, never need to reset anything.

I also have a Linksys WAP54G SET to 'Repeater' mode and switch this on only if I'm taking the laptop out in the garden where the WRT54G2 will not reach.

The problem is when I power on the WAP54G, both Linksys devices will not talk to each other unless I do one of the following two things with the WRT54G2: (1) Visit the config pages 'Wireless' tab and click 'Save Changes' (without needing to make a CHANGE), or (2) reset its power.

Both devices are:

• Linksys
• hardware revision 1
• installed with the latest firmware
• have the same SSID and passphrase
• using WPA2 security
• on the same subnet

• the PC (which is connected via Ethernet to the WRT54G2) cannot ping the WAP54G
• when in range of the WRT54G2 router the laptop can ping it and therefore, can ping the Internet
• when out of range of the WRT54G2 but in range of the WAP54G the laptop can ping the WAP54G, but it cannot ping the WRT54G2 or the Internet

I have a NetGear N600 wireless DUAL band WNDR3400. Under the heading of "SCHEDULING"...I tell it to start blocking at a certain time and end at a certain time....then I click Apply.....Nothing happens...it doesnt block during these times....

Can anyone help...?
Sorry, I have no idea. But could you elaborate? Do you want to block:
A. All trafic
B. Some web sites
C . A wireless user

Of cousre, the time must be set right. Routers ofte go by GMT, not local time. But you already knbow that, -Right?
Here a re a nuber of reviews of the dproduct. Generally they are good.
http://www.zdnet.com/reviews/product/routers/netgear-n600-wireless-dual-band-router-wndr3400/34169558Yes...Want to block ALL traffic SAY after 10pm or 2200hrs....Where do you set the time so to speak...?

Do you mean the computer clock...? There is no time set on the NetGear that I see.....What I should have said is that your computer has ti be set ti GMT* or yoy have to have a way to convert local time to the universal ntime. The router gets univerlas time off the internet. You will not change the time of the ruter.

For example, I am in Californai, where it is GMT minus 8 hours. So if I want the blocking job to begin at 10 PM local timr today, I would set the block time to 0600 universal time of the next day. Then to rutn it on a 7:00 AM local ine net day, I set the end time to 15:00 UCT the same day.

Does that help any? Hope I got that right.

* I have used GMT and UCT as being the same.
http://wwp.greenwichmeantime.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coordinated_Universal_TimeTried your suggestion.....nothing....I also went to the part of "Advanced Wireless Settings" There is a area there that says I can turn off wireless signal by schedule.....NOTHING there either....

All I want to do, is simply STOP access to WiFi after a certain time in the EVENING.....Sorry I can not help. Hyst saw the documentation . The default is PST, not UTC. Boy am I embarassed.
http://documentation.netgear.com/wndr3300/enu/202-10301-01/index.htm
The frimware was revised three years ago. You have a new model, -right?
http://support.netgear.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/848

Question? When you hit the apply box, does the router indicate it is doing the changes? Can you exit the menu, log in again and see your schedule?

I wonder if there are two places to configure this - one where you set up the schedule (or a list of schedules) and the other where you apply the schedule to a particular function?

I would say incidentally, that there is usually a facility to set the router's time (either manually or to pick it up via NTP) and timezone. Without this any scheduling facility is pretty meaningless.There is a option to download the manual in PDF. That sould make it practical to global search on the keyboards 'block' and schedule' and see if there aere two or more splaces.

EDIT
Yes, ther are two areas.
In one place you create a 'filter' and in another your schedule the 'filter'.

The filter can be a list of sites, or a restricting of specific SERVICES. Succh as HTTP service.

The information is in Chapter 3 of the manual.
Quote from: Geek-9pm on September 06, 2011, 01:48:50 PM

Yes, ther are two areas.
In one place you create a 'filter' and in another your schedule the 'filter'.