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If I buy a 1200rpm 3-pin fan, will the motherboard automatically adjust the fan speed faster and slower based on CPU temperature, or do I have to buy a variable-speed fan. This fan will be going on the HEATSINK of the CPU. It will also be plugged into the CPU fan slot.

This is what the MANUAL for my motherboard says:
The motherboard supports the AMD Cool ‘n’ Quiet Technology, which
monitors system operation and automatically adjusts CPU voltage and
frequency for a cool and quiet operating environment.Depends on the MBoard of which we know nothing as of yet...Asus M2N-X motherboard

The reason I ask is because I CHANGED the stock heatsink and fan for a 120mm case fan on a 120mm heatsink.

This is a rather interresting problem I ran into at WORK, and I was wondering if anyone KNEW why this was happening...

An old 10/100 switch was dying due to a cooling fan squeeling loudly. I swapped this switch out with a 10/100/1000 Netgear Smart Managed Switch and two servers started having problems keeping their link light. The SYSTEMS would be online then go offline and back online as the link led would STAY solid then go out, then stay solid again.

Replacing the 3com905B-TX Fast Etherlink XL PCI NIC on the exchange server with a brand new 1000mbps Linksys NIC fixed the exchange server. But then the active directory server started to have the same problem soon after ( about 2 hrs after ). All other 10 and 100mbps hardware connected to this new switch was running fine the whole time after the upgrade/ replacement of the switch.

I ended up moving the network cable from jack 16 on the gigabit switch to 16 which was also available on the older 10/100 switch above it which had an available port and the link for the network adapter would then stay solid and the problem was resolved.

Has anyone seen problems like this where the older 10/100 NICs misbehave on newer 10/100/1000 switches which should be backwards compatible?

The active directory server also had the same 3com905B-TX Fast Etherlink XL PCI NIC installed which was rather interresting since this NIC make/model and the new switch seem to have a handshake issue.

Thanks,

DaveWhat is happening is that the machine with the NIC acting up is trying to set a good speed in which to connect to the switch. A lot of times with newer NICs or switches the 1000 speed is what creates the problem. The NIC on your machine is set to auto so it keeps trying to change the speed setting to sync up with the switch but the switch can go a lot faster than the NIC so they never really sync up.

To fix this login to the machine that is not working and change the speed setting for the NIC to 100 full-duplex or some other speed. Just be sure it is not on auto.

Right click the NIC-->properties-->configure-->Advance-->Media TYPE

Than look at the drop down to change the settings

ok i ordered a computer online and the motherboard only supports ddr which is fine but i was wondering if i got a new graphics card with ddr2 memory would it work? or would some of the ram have to be shared for it to not work(like 512mb ddr2 ram on the video card but 256mb is shared from the ram on motherboard which is only ddr.) the motherboard is an Asus p4p8x SE, if it helps.you ordered a comp online with only DDR support? i hope your not SPENDING more then $50 on it then. as for the graphics card compatiblity, it will work with a DDR motherboard as the memory on the video card is independant from the motherboard.thanks and it supports dual channel ddr if thats any better. but what if 256mb of the video card ram was shared? and i did pay over 50$ for it but it has a 70$ gpu, 256gb hardrive, 1gb ram and a 3.2ghz p4 processor.......... look my current computer has 400mhz processor, 96 mb ram and 4gb hard drive running windows 98 so i could care less if it doesn't support ddr2. the only games i would play are counter strike source, hl2 and garry's mod so DONT need too much.Quote

but what if 256mb of the video card ram was shared?

so i could care less if it doesn't support ddr2

Do I really need ddr2 that much?

Hey i'm sure there already is a topic like this and if there is i'm sorry, i'm just getting really angry about overclocking i have ready hundreds of pages and forums about it and am still very confuzzed and need some help. I read pages that SAY you start by overclocking the fsb and they never say how to start or do it now i'm not sure if it's my hardwear that's to blame it may well be as its part of a package deal from MAXDATA , my specs are

Intel core 2 duo E6420 2.13GHz 4mb
ASUS P5LD2-VM 4.00 MATX i945G LGA775
2GB ram
7600GT

Please somebody help me before i go completly insanewhat are you trying to overclock?
what gains do you expect from your system after the overclock?i am tryin to overclock my cpu i hope to gain better PERFORMANCE e.g more frames per second in gamesthe thing you WOULD want to overclock is the gpu...
or get a better one...
you can over CLOCK the cpu various ways.
burning in.
changing the voltages.
incresing the mhz.
but you need to be very expierienced before you do anything...
there are many other ways to do this also.
but you can seriously damage many things if you dont do it right

g'day all,have had a bit of a search around this great site & apologise if this question has been asked previously

but time is against me perusing any more this morn.ANYWAYS,my problem is i was doing a windows xp reinstall on my pc

& being the tentative newb. that i am,when the screen listing my DISKS & partitions & subsequent size & whatnot came

up,there SEEMED to be to many listings.unsure of what to do,i went to the other pc in another room for all of 5-6

mins to verify my next move & upon returning to the first pc found the monitor blank!!!!!!!sussed the monitor out &

is fine.pressed reboot on tower-nothing.ended up pulling CORD out & left for an hour before plugging back in

,pushing BUTTON & all i get is the little light comes on at the tower for 5-10 seconds before it justs turns back

off.just that one little light,nothing on the monitor at all.cant smell anything burnt.what have i done???more

importantly-what can i DO??please.,,,,anyone??
cheers,
nads

I've just had to replace an older SATA mobo with a newer one which doesn't have any older SATA connections (red ones). Will my older SATA drives work if I plug them in to the board's SATA 300 connections ( yellow ones ) ?

Also, the board's SATA 300 controllers are nForce . Will they deal with older Si SATA drives OK ?Yes, SATA II is backwards compatible so you shouldn't have any problems.
And the brand of the controller shouldn't matter either. (Unless you have the drives configured as a RAID array.)Thanks, deerpark. My QUESTION gets a bit complicated now.

The drives which were on the older, failed, motherboard were set to 'MIRRORED' RAID. However, the array had broken down and I was about to re-mirror it when the mobo went down. The PC was working fine on the one drive, it just wasn't running as mirrored RAID.

Now, the info on those drives is valuable to me. What should I do to ensure that I don't have to reformat when I put the drives onto the new mobo ? The OS on the drives is Windows 2000 Pro. I think the config utility for the RAID controller should allow you to build a new RAID 1 array without FORMATTING the hdd with your data.
If at all possible a backup would be a good idea though. Either backup the data you need from the drive or use imaging software to backup the whole drive.

You should reinstall windows after the move to a new motherboard. Windows doesn't like major hardware changes and it might not want to boot at all.OK, I was able to install one drive into another machine and extract all the data to an external backup drive. The second drive, however, generated the message 'Not a valide (sic) device ! ' Does that mean it's broken ? What generated that message?
How you tried formatting the drive?

How do you connect a ps2 to a PC?? Do I need a phone cable or some type of usb device??HTTP://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=107706hey, this isnt TOPIC related but is it possible to connect a ps3 to a LCD PC monitor?

bfIt is considered impolite to hijack another user's thread banana_f. Please start your own thread for your QUESTION instead.but i didnt want to waste a thread just for one question . . . It makes life easier for us so it's not a waste.

My son's computer is usually left on all the time. Yesterday he went in there and it wan't working. All that we saw was the power light blinking rapidly, which was making a RAPID rattling sound in the speakers. There was nothing on the screen, just black. We couldn't get the power button to quit blinking, even when pushing it to turn off. We tried several nearby outlets in case it was electrical trouble, but it wouldn't do anything but that blinking power button. After that, we turned it off for a few hours and now even the power button will not light up.

He is running an EMachine T2385, 2.30 Ghz Intel Celeron Processor, 80 gb HARD drive, WINDOWS XP

It's not urgent to fix this, but I'm looking for any problems that you KNOW of that could make it act this way. Thanks, CarolI'm not sure about the power light blinking. I had the same problem where I leave my computer on all the time without TURNING it off, after a number of months (approximately 5 or more) the computer will either die or I will turn it off once and it won't start up again. The reason for this is a dead power supply.

First, if you have friends that will land you their working power supply to test it in your computer to be 100% sure and then just purchase another new good brand power supply and you're good to go.

Hello,

I got a Gigabyte GA-M61SME-S2 motherboard and having some issues. The ORIGINAL Power Supply (300W) has 24 pin connector with a -5V pin. Now I have 2 power supplies without that -5v pin and these power supplies are not "powering" up all the hardware.

For the most part - all the hardware does power on, except the video. The intergraded Video CARD does not SEEM to power on as my monitor doesn't.

Any advice? Thanks...what is this -5v pin that you are talking about? is it part of the 24 pin connector?

what make/model are your power supplies?

An employee from The Geek Squad told me that if I didn't have ( 64 bit? ) XP that having 4 gig ram is useless because the computer won't even use it. Is this true??

Thanks for your input (no pun intended)
GETTING 32-bit Windows to recognize anything beyond 2GB of installed RAM is a seemingly futile effort. Even if your hardware supports the possibility, the software may hold you back - and performance GAINS are questionable.

Bottom line: if you have 4GB of RAM in your system (or more), and you want to take full advantage of it, start using a 64-bit OS.



Yes, I have had the same problem, only my system WinXp 32BIT HOME would recognize 3.3Gig of RAM. I listed below some information you may or may not have seen at Microsoft explaining this...

Good LUCK,

-J

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/55522332-bit, depending on a system, will recognize 3-3.5GBi have 4gb and it recognizes 3.25gb's. i have contemplated going 64bit, but i dont think its worth the headache, as i have heard not a whole lot of programs work in a 64bit OS.

I recently upgraded my PC with a video card. It's a Radeon HD2600 Pro AGP.

And the Direct3D isn't working correctly. When I run the dxdiag, there is 3 total tests for the Direct3D. With the first one, the cube is perfect. But with the 2nd and 3rd tests, the cube is jarbled. I also cannt enable the AGP ACCELERATION.

When I TRY to play my games, I get no GRAPHICS at all.

I have downloaded the driver from the CD, the updated driver from Visiontek and even the hotfix from the ATI website - and it's still not working.

Can someone please help?

OS: Windows XP Home
RAM: 2GB
Video Card: Radeon HD2600 Pro AGPDirect3D- you mean that thing that comes with DirectX?

Download DirectX here:
http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?familyid=2da43d38-db71-4c1b-bc6a-9b6652cd92a3&displaylang=en

It should update your DirectX ti latest version for your xp system.

Let us know what happens now and if anything improved.Yes I have done that already. And yes it is part of the DirectX.fixed the problem

i got a different video card after doing countless hours of research

Can anyone tells me that is it possible to use Built in and external VGA's both at the same TIME and have output on 2 monitors.It is possible.
Plug both monitors in, reboot your PC, when windows comes up right click on the desktop and click Properties.
Click the Settings tab, you should see two monitors a 1 and a 2. Make sure that "Extend my Windows desktop onto this monitor" is checked on both monitors. Click Apply, click ok.
You should now have both monitors working.
If you want to change the way the monitors are related (Which one is on the left or right, etc...) then just go back to the Properites, Settings tab and click on the monitor you want to move and drag it to where you want it to be.Is this a laptop or desktop computer? If a laptop, you should be able to connect an external monitor and use both it and your laptop screen.

If a desktop, I think it DEPENDS on your motherboard. Some will allow you to do this; OTHERS will not.

By "Built in", I presume you mean onboard/integrated VIDEO. For the "external" monitor, would you be using a PCI Express video card, or would it be AGP or PCI? Do you ALREADY have the video card? If so, what connectors (VGA/D-sub, DVI, S-Video) does it have?

I know there are some ways to hook up my computer with a Sound Blaster X-Fi card to a Home Theater System.
The manual for the card shows that I can hook up a reciever to the optical out JACK on the card, but does optical out support surround sound? I'm hooking my pc up to my 42" HDTV in the living room, and would rather have it hooked up to a HTIB, as opposed to a DESKTOP surround sound.Nevermind. I just found out my MoBo has a SPDIF port, (digital optical). Now I can START looking for a HTIB with this same port.

Hi all.
I'm new to the forum. Hope someone can help me out.

We had some storms the other day, and lost electrical power. The power went out, and came back on a couple of times really quick(less than a minute). It then stayed out for about 6 - 7 hours. Now, my computer is showing no life at all. The computer is a Compaq Presario model SR1010Z with an AMD 3200+ 64bit processor, about 2 - 3 yrs old. I'm not SURE of the MB brand.

The SURGE protector obviously did not protect, but it is still working, and so is everything else plugged in to it. I can't smell anything burned, so I don't suspect a direct lightning strike. I think the surge protector couldn't handle the rapid up and down spikes from the power going on and off so fast and so often.

My first suspect was the power supply, but in doing some research, I found out the ATX motherboard could also be the culprit. I have another computer I built and have been upgrading over the years, so I pulled the PS and was going to try it in the other PC, but the power connectors are different. (24 pins won't fit a 20 pin connector)

Does anyone KNOW how to test an ATX 24 pin PS with the 12V +4 connector? I can't really afford to start buying parts at random, and those Geek Squad GUYS charge a fortune!

I am familiar with the interior of a PC and know something about how they are PUT together, but I have never had to do much troubleshooting before.

Any help would really be appreciated. The computer is used by my wife. She can't get out of the house very easily, so the computer and the TV are her only companions while I am at work. And even with 400+ channels there are many times there is nothing on worth watching.First start with the PS as you said, 24 pin should fit on a 20 pin just leave the 4 pins out on one side. Make sure that the PS on the dead board is not dead.

If there is power on the motherboard then your PS is ok, you would want to check if your RAM is working also, test components one by one with your working computer and let us know if there is any progress.

God Bless America"""""Also your surge protector is not working. It may have power and light up but the part that makes it a surge protector and not a fancy power strip is toasted. I would replace that ASAP.


On a 24 pin PSU power plug 4 pins are unused...some are designed to be split away from the plug but this is not always neccessary.
The plug will only go in one way if you note where the hold down clip is orientated as to the MBoard.
Just take your time and look at things carefully and you should be OK.

To test if the old PSU has a reset breaker hook it back up. Toggle the power switch on the PSU a few times before plugging it in. Then if it fires up you're also good to go.One thing that has happened me me like that before with frequent power on/offs is that sometimes I have to remove al power to my PSU, then hold down the power switch for about 15-20 secnds to purge all power, then plug it up again and it goes again

Kurtis

Hello! I recently got a new computer with a thermaltake toughpower 750 watt psu (about to get SLI)

Now there are several useless cables coming from the psu that pnly take space inside the case and they make it look untidy inside, so is there anyway to "remove" or hide them in a nice way?

Thanx!I would suggest zip ties. Don't try to "remove" them. You can cause damage to your system.

my power supply, in my case, is in the upper rear area. what i usually do with all my extra connectors is i zip tie them together and place them in the 5.25" drive bays.

[file cleanup - saving space - attachment deleted by admin]Yes zip ties are your friends.

How big of a monitor do you have? From what I have read, unless you have like a 32 in. monitor, SLI is a waste of money at best, and can be a pain to set up. There are people that know more than me about the subject, but with all the reading I have done, I have yet to hear someone say SLI is a good idea, and hundreds that say it is a bad idea.

Food for thought.
Quote

From what I have read, unless you have like a 32 in. monitor, SLI is a waste of money at best,

I have yet to hear someone say SLI is a good idea, and hundreds that say it is a bad idea.

I have two laptops - my "MAIN" one, and a work-issued one.

I used to be able to synchronize my Palm Life Drive with both my work and my HOME laptops. Now, it will no longer sync with the WORK laptop.

I have four USB ports, and none of them would sync. I rebooted, redownloaded the BIOS and flashed it, reset the Palm, and nothin'. (I press the sync button on the cable, the LD goes into sync mode, but it never connects to the laptop). My MP3s connect fine, external USB drives (flash and powered HD's) are fine, just no syncing.

Now, I was able to use my LD in "Drive" mode, and SWAP files back and forth. So I know the connection is there, just not syncing. And it works on other computers, so I know it's not the cable or the Palm.

I don't know what else to isolate?


(Sorry - the computer it's working on is a Dell Inspiron 6000, running XP SP2. The one it's NOT working on is a Latitude D620, running XP Pro SP 2)So there's nothing I can do?Does the Palm require drivers ? ? If so try re-installing them.

Another thing you can try on the Latitude is Control Panel/System/Hardware/Device Manager...find every instance of a USB root or hub...right clik each of them and select remove....ignore the warning and re-boot.

Windows will automatically re-install them.Thanks, patio. I removed the two "GENERIC USB Hub"s and five "USB Root Hub"s. I did NOT TOUCH the "Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family) USB Universal Host Controller"s (27C8, 27C9, 27CA, 27CB, and 27CC).

When I rebooted, the machine showed my "Register Your Palm" screen, as if I had just installed it (I hadn't manually launched anything, but HotSync is in my Startup folder). Then it walked me through four or five different Toshiba Bluetooth "Found New Hardware Wizards", but the Palm still doesn't sync.

You know how when you plug in a USB device, the computer chimes, "duh-deet", and when you unplug it, the computer goes, "deet-douh"...

When I plug my Palm into the USB, and press sync, the computer goes "deet-douh__duh-duh-duh_deet-douh_duh-duh-duh". The "Connecting with the desktop" screen comes on my Palm, but then nothing happens until it times out.Could this be a cord issue ? ?

Sorry i'm out of ideas other than completely re-installing the Palm software on the offending machine.Doubtful - the cord works on the other machine.

I have tried reinstalling software.

Perhaps:
- Uninstalling software
- Uninstalling USB (as recommended above)
- Rebooting (to reinstall USB)
- Reinstalling software.

I'll try that.

Thanks.Hey, the combo meal worked.

Thanks.Quote from: rjbinney on June 12, 2007, 09:47:17 PM

Hey, the combo meal worked.

Thanks.

Hi
My system is consuming too MUCH of memory without STARTING any applications other than Firefox. On the TASK bar are, firewall, AVG to be on main side.

OS: XP sp1


Below are the details:
CPU Type AMD Duron, 1600 MHz (12 x 133)
Physical Memory:
Total 191 MB
Used 166 MB
Free 25 MB
Utilization 87 %

Swap Space:
Total 515 MB
Used 247 MB
Free 267 MB
Utilization 48 %

Virtual Memory:
Total 706 MB
Used 413 MB
Free 292 MB
Utilization 59 %

Physical Address Extension (PAE):
Supported by Operating System Yes
Supported by CPU Yes
Active No

Is this normal? Or is there something I can do to free some more RAM for my system to run applications faster...Your machine is a little under powered. I would add RAM and upgrade to XP SP2.

Add 256mb ram or more and your computer will feel much faster.
And like Spoiler said, upgrade to SP2.Hi
Thanks for the replies...

Is SP2 taking less memory than SP1?

Is there a way to free up RAM for the applications to run smoothly?SP2 adds updates to make your computer run BETTER as well as ADDING security updates. Your machine will run better but it will take about the same amount of RAM. The amount of RAM used in your computer is normal. The only way to make your applications run faster is to add RAM to your machine. Bring it up to at least 512 megs. Or better 1 gig.

I just completed my new build and my DVD drive and my HDD are showing as Drive: D , and Drive: C , as they should. But windows is giving me the "safely remove hardware" icon in my desktop tray. I'm not SURE how to fix this so any help would be appreciated. Thanks.Well if u dont know anything about comps dont do it urself thats how people **** me offCould you posts some specs on this new build?
What device is showing up in safely remove hardware?

Oh and ignore KnowItAll, he'll be gone soon."Thank you Deerpark." How did you config the drive? Is it IDE or SATA?It is normal to see the "safely remove hardware" icon with internally installed SATA drives, since they are, in theory at least, removable.

EVGA 780i SLI MoBo
Vista 64 bit

Hard drive is a Western Digital SATA 320GB HDD
Optical Drive is a Samsung Lightscribe SATA DVD Burner

The HDD and the Optical drive are WHATS showing up in "safely remove".
My other computer also has SATA drives, and I haven't had this problem with it. Although it may not be a problem, its still concerning.It's not a problem or even a concern. It is as Dias DE verano also said because SATA is in fact hot swappable, meaning that you can add or remove SATA DEVICES while the computer is running. (Although I would never recommend working INSIDE the case with the power on).Right. You would think the internal SATA drive's would be recognised as "internal" or something, therefore not hot swappable. Thanks though for the help.

NZXT Zero Full size case
EVGA 780i SLI MoBo
GeForce 8800 GT
Intel E8400 3.0GHz CPU
2GB of Corsair Dominator 1066MHz RAM
Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi
Western Digital SATA 320GB HDD
Samsung Lightscribe SATA DVD Burner
Windows Vista 64 bit
Phoenix AwardBIOS

Those are my specs, and here is my problem... I just built this rig yesterday, and i've configured everything and INSTALLED the newest drivers. Everything seems to post just fine, only after the Logo splash screen, it continues to go to the BIOS setup screen,(PRESS F1 to cont. or DEL to enter setup).From my experience, I thought it should then go straight to Windows. If someone is willing to help me out here and sort of walk me through this, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.If the Windows drive is from another BUILD it will not boot properly...

Repair install of XP

Read it thoroughly before starting paying special attention to the warnings.
And print out a copy for reference.
If done properly XP will boot and all your Programs and data will be intact.
You will of course have to install your drivers afterwards...MBoard drivers should be first.Everything on the specified system is brand new. At least it better be.

So would the same solution be APPLICABLE? If so, is do you know if its the same for Vista?

is there ANYWAY i can get passed cmos password without my screwdriver CANT set first boot device on my old LAPTOP advent 6410 to cd rom and i have no floppy on the desktop puter to use floppyNo.thort not THANKS anyway
Normally in the case of laptops a new EEPROM chip needs to be soldered in....usually between 60 and 120 bucks Labor and parts.

I have a program on my desktop that I want to put on to my laptop. The program is roughly 7 GIGS and my external hard drive (Western Digital) is 70 ish gigs. For some reason the computer says there is not enough disc space when I try to put the program onto the external hard drive. I have done this before with other programs, I dont know why this wont work. Any ideas or help would be great.
Quote from: JohnO on February 11, 2008, 02:55:12 PM

I have a program on my desktop that I want to put on to my laptop. The program is roughly 7 gigs and my external hard drive (Western Digital) is 70 ish gigs. For some reason the computer says there is not enough disc space when I try to put the program onto the external hard drive. I have done this before with other programs, I dont know why this wont work. Any ideas or help would be great.

Well just for s__ts and giggles i'm INSTALLING XP on an OLDER PENTIUM machine i have that runs Win98SE.
It has 64M of RAM and i'll let you know how it goes...

BTW i was joking.

Previously my Western Digital SATA HDD had problem. I replaced a new WD3200AAJS one from dealer. I connected that HDD to one SATA port in my Gigabyte GA-8S655FX motherboard. The BIOS settings for SATA were set as below:

Sis Serial ATA Controller [Enabled] (available options: Enabled or Disabled)
Sis Serial ATA Mode [RAID] (available options: IDE or RAID)

After PC powered up. BIOS reported it detected the HDD.

However, as Windows XP Professional was running, I couldn't find the SATA HDD from explorer.

I used System Management Tools -> Computer Management -> Disk Management tool and forced it to scan new hardware but no new HDD found.

Also, I used Device Manager -> Drive icon and clicked to force hardware CHANGE scanning. Still no new HDD found.

Although there exist probability that the new HDD was faulty but I would like to ask what can I do further before I return it to the dealer for another HDD ?

TKS!

PS: My motherboard has 2 SATA PORTS. I'd tried both of them but the results were the same.
did you get sata driver floppy with motherboard?
And has the drive been formatted yet ? ?
Windows will not see it until it is.Quote from: Dias de verano on February 23, 2008, 04:35:38 AM

did you get sata driver floppy with motherboard?

And has the drive been formatted yet ? ?
Windows will not see it until it is.

Quote from: patio on February 23, 2008, 09:06:48 AM

And has the drive been formatted yet ? ?
Windows will not see it until it is.

Not related. XP can still recognize an unformatted SATA disk. Formatting is the next step.

Quote from: goo_lu3 on February 24, 2008, 12:30:05 AM

Quote from: patio on February 23, 2008, 09:06:48 AM

And has the drive been formatted yet ? ?
Windows will not see it until it is.

Not related. XP can still recognize an unformatted SATA disk. Formatting is the next step.

Source ? ?

ok guys i am back so far nobody hasnt been able to help me out ,
so far i have figured that there is file syestem damage in my below discused xternal hdd
can anyoe tel me that will the software hard drive mechanic GOLD will work for external hdds

thank u for ur clue. i have checked the disk managment it showed me 296 gb as unalocated partition and a 2.08 gb partition ,before the incicdent this drive had 4 parttions
now it is showing me 2
after reading ur hint i check in MANGMENT and i have have turned the unallocated partition into an active partition ,but now when i am trying to explore or open this , i am getting a messege this partition i s not formated o u want it to FORMAT yes no
off course i am not going to format it bcoz i have almost 180 gb of my personaal data in it
and it will be very difficult for me to burn all this in to dvds
and one more thing in disk managment it is not showing any partition type bfore it was ntfs partiion




hi
i have been using a comstar external hard drive 320gb to store all my data ,few days ago my laptop hdd had a kind of virus and i had to restore it in a out of box form so i run my toshiba laptop in safe mode and was transfering data into the external hdd ,everything went fine for half hour but after tht i receive the mesege of xternal hdd disconection ,
so now all i can see is a 2 gb blank partition out of 320 gb and have nothing in it rest is non accessible,
i have partition magic 8 installed in my laptop and that shows the 300 gb in yelow colour and properties says it is BAD
cant perform any ACTIVITY in it like resizing
do i have a chance to recover my data or i would be rather formatting aal 320 gb
any suggestion would be hghly appreciated
thanks in advance experts

if i were you i would hook that ex hdd up to another computer and see waht it says, and if you can, burn your backups to a disk.Quote from: fpsmitch on February 07, 2008, 08:20:45 AM

if i were you i would hook that ex hdd up to another computer and see waht it says, and if you can, burn your backups to a disk.

I have an DELL Dimension 4500 that i tried to upgrade the memory in earlier TODAY. I got the memory in the mail, only after taking out the chip i had in the mobo, i realized i ordered the WRONG memory. So i stuck the old chip back in, but now it won't boot up. I get power but can't get anything to transfer over to the monitor, and it also sounds almost as if the fans INSIDE the comp are not working when i try and boot it up.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated

BigunnMake sure the old RAM is seated properly...
Did you remove all power and TAKE anti-static measures when doing the above ? ?old memory is seated right and i did have all the power off. as far as anti static i dunno, it was a wood floored room, so figured i was fine. Its just throwing me off why the internal fans aren't coming on either

i have an old mobo my son gave up on
ecs elitegroup 755a-2
512 mb DDR333 pc2700u cl2.5 ram
asprie x-navagator case psu 500
western digital 1600jb HD 160 gigs
nvidia 2 pci graphics card
i have power to every thing but when i hook up the HDD ide
it dosent spin until i UNPLUG the ide cable and no beeps and a blank monitor screen...
please help
Quote from: filthy on February 09, 2008, 04:32:37 AM

i have an old mobo my son gave up on
ecs elitegroup 755a-2
512 mb DDR333 pc2700u cl2.5 ram
asprie x-navagator case psu 500
western digital 1600jb HD 160 gigs
nvidia 2 pci graphics card
i have power to every thing but when i hook up the HDD ide
it dosent spin until i unplug the ide cable and no beeps and a blank monitor screen...
please help

Hard drives are not designed to be plugged/unplugged while there is power to the machine.
You may have damaged the IDE slot on the MBoard and or the drive itself.
Try the drive on another machine to see if it works.
As to the MBoard you could try a new IDE cable and another device on that slot to see if it still functions.
Hook everything up with the machine unplugged.

I have an HP PAVILION ze4900 laptop. i am trying to UPGRADE the hard drive from a 40gb to a larger drive. I bought a drive off of ebay. However once i received it the connectos are different. The new drive has pins on the end, the current drive has a end similiar to a scsi drive. Is there a connector i COULD get to CONNECT the drive into my laptop?

Thanks

Welcome to the CH forums.

Which SCSI drive connections do you mean? Displayed here are a couple of different kinds.

However, REGARDLESS of above I doubt if any adapter would be suitable for use bearing in mind the lack of expansion space in a laptop.

FYI the user manual is here and only mentions drives up to 60Gb (Sect 5 p.6).

Good luck

When I try to burn a cd or watch a video my computer freezes. I tried to burn in nero and MEDIA plaer with the same result.Swap out the cable for your CD/DVD drive, see if the problem persists. Plug the cable into a different controller port on the motherboard, see if the problem persists. Check for updated drivers from the drive manufacturer and install them.Would wrong jumper SETTINGS on the drive cause something like this? Maybe it's just a bad drive?Quote from: mikethemeatman on February 08, 2008, 06:06:15 AM

When I try to burn a cd or watch a video my computer freezes. I tried to burn in nero and media plaer with the same result.

Mike,
I'm glad you're good with Elk and or deer...i may need your services sometime.
List as much as you can about this system including hardware, what version of Windows, how you went about cleaning it up and what else happened prior to this and someone will be along shortly...

I have 224MB

I tried installing a hard drive on my childrens computer. It was running ME. I put in a Western Digital 300 GB and the bios did not recognize this even though I booted from the CD. I was afraid that the 300 GB was too big so I installed a 160 GB WD. The bios will still not recognize this drive even when booting from the CD-ROM. I do not have any jumpers on this drive as it is considered a single. What am I doing wrong. I installed one on my mothers computer with no problem at all with the same operating system. HELP!! menmom4memmom, The 1st item that needs to be enlarged upon are the specifics of the computer that you are trying to introduce these HDD's to as there can be definite limitations as to compatibility based on age of the computer and thus it's ABILITY to accept these devices. So give us the SPECS on the computer. The impression is that you are wanting to "add" this HD thus it will definitely need to be jumpered to slave for it to be recognized.Eventually once recognized items like formatting,partitioning and perhaps other considerations will ALSO need to be addressed. Are these drives new out of the box or are they units removed from another computer with data still on them?If they are new you should be able to contact the tech support of the Mgr. for assistance in configuring them to your computer. My experience has been that most HD Msgr's. do provide very good telephone tech support (particularly at the set up stage which is what you are doing).So give us some more info and i am sure there will be some guidance forthcoming. good luck( and by the way welcome to CH forums)truenorthNeed more info:

1. What are the model numbers for the Western Digital 160 GByte and 300 GByte hard drives?

2. What CD are you attempting to boot from (and why)? Western Digital CD? Microsoft Windows Installation CD? OEM Recovery CD?

3. PC Manufacturer/Model Number (if "Brand Name" computer), otherwise Manufacturer/Model Number of the motherboard.

4. Approximate manufacture date (month/year) of the computer?

5. Which operating system is the computer using (or will be using)? Windows ME or Windows XP?

6. Are you planning to reinstall the operating system onto the new hard drive in a single drive configuration?

7. Opinion. An older BIOS (date) and operating system may limit the size (capacity) of hard drive that you may access. Without loading special sector addressing software, you may be up against the 137 GByte limit. For example, I'm running Windows ME on an HP PAVILION 6736 computer manufactured July 2000. Because I decided not to use the special addressing software, I'm only able to access 137 GBytes of my 160 GByte Seagate hard drive. I did this to avoid corrupting my data should some well intentioned person slave the drive to another system to recover data without the necessary addressing software. I seem to recall both Western Digital and Seagate have information regarding the addressing limitation, but I can't seem to wrap my mind around the problem without getting a headache.

using a drive larger than 137GB

My unsolicited advice is to work with the Western Digital 160 GByte drive and if it gives you 137 GBytes without doing anything special, then take it and move on.
Quote from: menmom4 on February 09, 2008, 10:48:38 AM

The bios will still not recognize this drive even when booting from the CD-ROM.

Hey, It's me, Linuxlover. I hope this is the RIGHT place to ask this question, as you all know, It's been awhile since I've been an active member. Anyways... I am LOOKING for an MP4 player. My main purpose is video. My maximum price is $100 (with about $10 headroom). I was looking at the Zen, but saw that it didn't have divx or xvid. Then I saw the Meizu miniplayer that did. MJPEG and WMV are bad CODECS. Then I saw that indeed, the Zen DOES have DivX and Xvid. The meizu has some better features, but the creative is a little more known company, and the zen has a better screen, better sound, and better photo, and possibly video. Please help.

This time I got the right alias.creative makes good products. I would go with the zen and in any case, just convert the xvid or divx video using a video converter to a file the zen player can read. (for say, xvid or divx to mp4... it can be done)

After all, you seem to really like the zen player more and it is within your budget range so why not go for it then? which zen are you talking about? the zen comes in many different models. i have a zen V plus, it does video, but it requires you to run the video through a converter which almost doubles the original size of the movie. I am referring to the Zen (no suffix) Also, I CANNOT run them through converters as I am using linux (self-evident). And I was hoping that I could keep the video sizes to about 2MB per minute. I have alot of video. And I can't exactly HOLD a DVD player and case in my pocket. Also, I had one and the disc drive crapped out. Therefore an xvid player is my best choice.Zen Linux Solutions...Ok, so that solves the linux problem. And I recently found that it can indeed play Xvid natively. So, in other words: Bye bye Meizu, hello Zen. No offense, but I found that the Zen has a better feature set. The Cowon D2 is even better but way out of my price range. So, in short. I'll be installing gnomad shortly.

EDIT: A quick jaunt to Synaptic proved to bear fruit. Now all I need is the player. Thanks for the help.No Problem...glad you're fixed up.

Currently I am using a Compaq Presario M2000. It came with a 256 meg ram card installed and I installed 512mb card over a year ago. It shows 638 mb of ram in the system properties leading me to believe it was only a 128 card, although it still is labeled 256. anyway thats not my problem. Everywhere i checked it says the computer can handle two 512mb chips . I bought another 512 mb piece of ram and installed it inplace of the original 256 to give myself two 512 mb pieces.
when i turn on the pc i get two loud pc beeps and a black screen. I tried numerous combinations but the only way i can get the system to work is with the 256 card in SLOT 1 and either of the two 512mb cards in slot two. they both work in slot two but neither work in slot ONE. whats going on?? I really need more ram to run programs which I use for drafting, and a new pc is out of the question, money is tight. Anyone know whats GOIN on??Is this site any help?

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/product?product=433559&lc=en&cc=uk&dlc=en&lang=en&cc=uktried some things on the link but nothing seems to work. the thing is both 512s work in port NUMBER 2 when they are interchanged, so I know both cards are properly functioning. But as soon as I remove that 256 from port 1, I install either of the 512s and when I power up I get two beeps and a BLANK screen.Is it correct type of RAM? Where did you get it from?Its the same type of ram with all the specs of the 256 in slot 1. the 512s work fine in slot 2 which is what confuses the *censored* out of me. I bought it online so returning it is basically out of the question.Have you tried using only 1 512 in Slot1 and seeing if it will boot properly ? ?
Double-checked the BIOS settings for RAM setups ? ?
Use a can of compressed air to blow out the RAM slots in case there's some dust in there ?

The other day I began to experience some PROBLEMS. I would receive 3 errors at start-up :

Error loading C:\Users\(my name)\AppData\Local\Temp\efedc.dll
The specified module could not be found

Error loading C:\Users\(my name)\AppData\Local\Temp\urqpp.dll
The specified module could not be found

Error loading C:\Users\(my name)\AppData\Local\Temp\qkjookby.dll
The specified module could not be found

As well as these, I have the following problems :
When I try to open anything (COMPUTER, documents, control panel etc) using the taskbar, the window would open up but close quickly after. Sometimes after numerous tries this results in everything disappearing from the desktop (so everything's blank except my background and these error messages). Once IE is opened it stays open however, and after time it is possible to ACCESS programs by finding them via the IE address bar. When everything runs okay for a while, I still experience problems like the taskbar vanishes or things vanish from the desktop and reappear.

I purchased Max Registry Cleaner (is anyone familiar with it?) and got the number of "high risk" entries from in the 1000's down to 0 after numerous scans. This appeared to get rid of my 3rd error (qkjookby.dll), but all my other problems remain. As for Max Registry Cleaner's support, they have ASKED me to send SCREAN shots of the errors, export my logs to them, and "ignore" some of the entries, but they're yet to give me some helpful advice.

If anyone could give me any information or advise me what to do I'd appreciate it greatly !

ThanksI was unable to find any info on either of those .dll's...i suggest running all your malware scans.

I purchased a COMPUTER at a flea market which has two USB ports at the back and two in the front panel. The two in the front panel has the leads disconnected. The Mobo is SIS746-K7S7AG be ECS. Does anyone know where I can TRAVEL to find a diagram or manual for this motherboard in order to correctly re-connect these ports?The ECS homepage is here and it seems like there's a user manual download available plus other goodies.

Good luck

Thanks, Dusty. Even THOUGHT the number of the mobo is the same as the numbers I found at startup, the configurations are not the same as the mobo. For example there are actually 5 pci slots but only two USB ports on the back and two in the front. Variations on a theme. Have you located the USB3 Front Panel Header socket shown in the diagram on page 5 of the ENGLISH translation? If so please try plugging the Front Panel Usb ports to the header.I'm going to fire up that computer tomorrow, load the PDF file and have a closer look. I'll let you know.You may need a magnifying glass but the USB header pins along with their polarity should be MARKED on the MBoard itself...If you are unsuccessful in locating and connecting front panel USB wires to the motherboard, here's a USB 2.0 PCI card that provides two additional ports on back and has pins for the wiring for the front ports: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815166001

I fixed that PROBLEM with my old hard drive, thanks to you guys. Now my new computer is having a few issues.

I have everything running, but when I get to the diagnostic screen I can't go any further because my keyboard doesn't work. By doesn't work I mean the keys don't work at all, no F1 F9 DEL or LEDs at all.

I'm using a 570 SLI ver 5.x motherboard and the keyboard/mouse are both USB converted to PS2.Are the motherboard headers CONNECTED properly to the case OUTLETS? Have you tried 'em in USB ports? I've tried the USB ports on the motherboard and case, neither works. Do you mean the 3 pin headers NEAR the USB and PS2 ports on the motherboard? I thought that might be the problem, but my friend's computer doesn't have anything plugged up to those either, and his works fine.

I'm trying to find my camera to give you guys a little more information.Did you get an assembly manual / motherboard manual? They are better guides than what your friend says...
My friend(a) didn't say anything, I just checked his motherboard to see if I could learn anything from his setup. He has the exact same motherboard and nothing plugged into the 3 pin headers on it, and a PS2 keyboard. I think I left the manual at his house, but I remember it saying those connectors supplied power to the ports. Which is why I thought it weird he didn't have anything plugged up to them.

Edit: I just talked to another friend(b)/downloaded the manual, and friend(c) that was there when I put the motherboard in took off what appeared to be safety caps. Turns out they were there for a reason. Problem solved, thanks for the input, Dias.have you enabled usb in cmos ad a similar prob myself worked for me

Purchased ll/07, installed and worked fine for a month. Now will not print from computer. Desktop ICONS show photosmart, HP Supplies, but no recognition of 9.0 software installation. Have uninstalled and reinstalled several times, bought new CABLE and am able to print pictures and copy and scan, but no printing. I have been online with HP tech support for 2 hours doing same thing, and they can't find the answer. Have had me clean up drivers, etc. Now waiting for a Level 2 tech to call me, but thought maybe someone else had EXPERIENCED this. Thanks for looking. Cmwm

Right, so I have a cable that has a headphone plug on one end (for the laptop) and an RCA AV end to plug into my receiver or amp. I get a buzzing sound everytime (with some recognisable noise). Not likely a HARDWARE issue, but I was curious as to know whether or not someone would know the cause of this sound.I'm not an expert in this but maybe it's an earth problem - have you tried a different cable, or plugging the cable in to another amp ( or another input on the same amp?)The cable WORKS on all other DEVICES. And I've tried plugging the laptop into a few other speakers and stuff as well. Could it have something to do with the surrounding environment?RF can come in many forms including but not limited to cordless phones, microwaves, stereo equipment etc.....
Still could be a grounding problem though.Yah I have no idea what it could possible be. A certain type of material, like some sort of metal perhaps?If its not the cable and its not the laptop maybe the amp,or those PARTICULAR inputs? Presumably the amp works with other devices?
Quote from: patio on February 21, 2008, 04:53:00 PM

RF can come in many forms including but not limited to cordless phones, microwaves, stereo equipment etc.....
Still could be a grounding problem though.

my com fail to power at all (no power lights). ive checked all switches and hardware. my final question:does a flat CMOS batt prevent power up?No. Not normally...
Post alot more info on this machine and we'll MOVE on.i bought this new PSU and managed to run for 24 hours. but 6 hours later, it refuse to power up. not even the FAN. Quote from: btjl90 on February 25, 2008, 06:45:27 AM

i bought this new PSU and managed to run for 24 hours. but 6 hours later, it refuse to power up. not even the fan.

I WIPED MY HARD DRIVE CLEAN AND REINSTALLED WINDOWS XP PROFESSIONAL ON MY ACER TRAVEL MATE 2480-2968. I DON'T HAVE A DRIVER CD SO I HAVE TO BE DOWNLOADING THE DRIVERS FROM THE ACER WEBSITE. WHEN I DOWNLOADED THE ETHERNET/LAN DRIVERS I NOTICED THAT IT DOES NOT CONTAIN A SETUP FILE. SO I DON'T KNOW HOW TO INSTALL IT. CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH THIS.

HOW DO YOU INSTALL A DRIVER WITHOUT A SETUP FILE?

Well first dont write such a long post keep it short and simple u need to call geek squadGEEKSQUAD? WHO OR WHAT IS GEEKSQUAD?
Best buy? Circuit city? they know it all*censored* no. Stay away from the idiots at Geeksquad.

To install your new driver follow these steps:

Right click on My Computer, click Properties, Click on the Hardware tab, click on Device Manager, Now find your Network Card, it probably has a big Yellow Exclamation point on it. Right click on it and click Update Driver, SELECT "Install from a specific Location" and browse to the folder where you unpacked the driver you downloaded. It should have a .INF file in it. Select that file and click ok. Then click next. Windows should then install your driver and all should be well. Let me know if you have any trouble.

And ignore KnowITAll. The GUY is clearly a moron and shouldn't be posting here. Geeksquad? For CRYING out loud....I tried what you said emperor and it worked perfectly. THANKS alot, now i can get some sleep.

go **** yourself **KnowItAll has been banned.

Hi - my problem here is fairly complicated, so I am going to start at the very beginning.

I recently decided to get some upgrades for my current computer. My list was pretty short- computer case, power supply, and motherboard. I decided I was going to take everything else from my current computer (processor, memory, hard & dvd drives, video card, ect) and transfer it over.

After getting everything assembled and starting the power up, I immediately noticed a faint smell of burning plastic, and moments later one of the connectors to the power supply started to smolder. Needless to say, I tuned off the power.

So, with my new power supply and motherboard as one, I began to dissemble everything off of the board and back into my original computer. The computer booted up fine, all of the files are in the hard drives, games load properly and I have access to all of my programs....

...but my internet connection is SLOW. Pages before would basically pop up almost immediately (I am running cable internet) where now they run so slow, that sometimes the pages either come up empty - or as in the case of Firefox it tells me that the connections were reset from the server. Sometimes, they do pop up, but it takes forever.

The reason why I am here is because I do not know what to do. My internet provider tells me that there is nothing wrong with my internet service (they recieved every ping they sent) and the internet connection troubleshooter on windows tells me that there is absolutely no problems. I do not know if some part of the memory or processor was DAMAGED from the problems RELATING to the new power supply "roasting" (and potentially sending a dangerous level of current into the processor) but my instincts tell me that if there was something wrong with the processor and memory that I would not be able to start up my other programs. (Sims 2, ect)

I did suspect my power supply might be bad, because when I put everything back into my "old" computer, the computer took about six starts before it made it all the way to the desktop. It was able to boot only after I switched the power supply's switch off, waiting about 30 seconds, and then turning it back on. But is it really that simple? Is my old (not the new one that fried) power supply really keeping me from being able to sustain normal internet speeds.

My system: Athlon 64 3800, Windows XP, 2GB memory, Abit AV8 motherboard

P.S. - I also thought that maybe I had a bad ethernet cable, but that appears to not be the case.99% chance that your Network card was toasted by the electrical event.
Do you have a different network card you can test in the machine?

Also, if you go to Start, Run, CMD, and type ping -t www.google.com and let it run for 10-15 minutes then hit Ctr-C what does it say the percentage successful is? If it's less than 95% you're definitely getting packet loss and are probably going to need a new network card.Quote from: TheEmperor on February 06, 2008, 09:07:43 PM

99% chance that your Network card was toasted by the electrical event.

Ok, so you're not getting packet loss. Which is good. Means your network card is probably ok.

Can you give us any more details about the issue? Does it happen in IE and Firefox? Does it affect all web browsing? Does it affect anything else, MMORPGs, other online games? If you run a speedtest from http://www.speakeasy.net/speedtest/ what kind of result do you get?

bo130, have you disabled/re-enabled your network adapter? have you tried the "repair" option?

Quote

bo130, have you disabled/re-enabled your network adapter? have you tried the "repair" option?

I want to watch TV ON my computer so I am looking at a LOT of TV TUNER card USB 2.0
Whenever I find one I like I then go read what people SAY and I always see people say bad things.
Please tell me of a good one just for use with cable and a none digital signal.
ThanksWell, if you EXPECT to find a device which no negative comments in reviews, then you're probably being unrealistic. I think you need to read these reviews with a critical eye and try to assess what's valid and what may not be valid.

I've never owned a TV Tuner but it's something I'm thinking about. I don't KNOW how much you're willing to spend, but I'd take a look at http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815116625

I have a DELL computer and keyboard. I was attempting to ENTER setup and held the Delete key down for too long and locked out the keyboard.
I am STUCK at my login page as I am not signed into my account yet.
I need to know how to unlock the keyboard.
Please help!
p.s. Before you wonder, this is being written on a LAPTOP not my computer.
Thanks!Whats the OS? Operating System?I have never heard of a locked out keyboard. Is the key stuck down? Power off and try again.
May be there an INTERNAL problem with key.Just have a check all the keys if any one is still pressed.Try to restart your pc and start new setup.

Hi all, I keep getting this error. When I get into setup and RESET the default, the time is right, I save and exit. But still can't boot from HD. Any help would be appreciated.Have you RECENTLY added any RAM to this machine....
If so what type ? ?
You may want to replace the CMOS battery LOCATED on the MBoard part # CR2032 available at any computer store and /or Wally World...

You may want to USE a can of compressed air and blow out those RAM slots before giving up on the MBoard...
The RAM sticks can be cleaned with rubbing alcohol.
PNY does not offer a Lifetime Warranty on any of their RAM...My computer has been doing the same thing. I've formated the hard drive and reinstall windows, Windows SEEMS to work fine until I install SP2, then it starts over with all the errors. And now I keep getting RegUpdate.net Popups. I've just about giving up on this oneQuote from: patio on February 23, 2008, 04:46:50 PM

You may want to use a can of compressed air and blow out those RAM slots before giving up on the MBoard...
The RAM sticks can be cleaned with rubbing alcohol.

Hey everyone, I have a P4 3.2Ghz HT Processor which I overclocked to about 3.5-3.6ghz using a zalman 9500A cooler. Everything was great and the CPU was fine (temp was even cooler than before I overclocked it) and then a few months later I OPENED PC Wizard 2007 and the program said my CPU, even though the FSB Frequency was 880 MHZ and a Bus Speed of 220, that my actual (real) CPU frequency was only 3080.48 Mhz (3.0Ghz)! A few months ago I opened the program and it said I was at my 3.5-3.6Ghz... I went into the BIOS (I have an Asus P4P800S-X mobo) and my settings still said I had given it slightly more than a 10% overclock... but even the BIOS said my cpu was at 3.0Ghz...So is my CPU just old/fried or is the computer just lying to me? Any help would be AWESOME! Thanks guys!
-Mr.BondIf you have had a POWER outage or the CMOS battery is weak that would explain the BIOS resetting to defaults which would nullify any changes you made...
Another thing to consider is many board manuf. onboard utilities may not report OC'ing details properly...

Travel Here for some suggestions on reporting utilities. I'm not sure if PCWizard is considered one of the top notch ones or not.Thanks for the reply, but I've checked the bios settings and they say that I've overclocked the CPU 10%...The other thing is that both the mobo and PC Wizard 2007 did show that the CPU was overclocked a month ago. I've changed no settings, but all of the sudden I looked and it had DROPPED...Well your conclusion contradicts what you just stated as to how it's being reported...

the other day i got to playing battlefield 2 and i got a lagging spree...
as soon as i got in the game it was crazy.
i did recently get a new graphics card. xfx geforce 8600 gt xxx
amd athlon 3500+ 2.2
machspeed viper mk8939a mobo
180 g hd
400 watt psu
widows xp sp2
i have no idea what COULD be wrong.
i have the LATEST patch and i have the latest video drivers.
I'm stumped.
and i have played it before after i had allready installed the card and it was fine...did you uninstall the drivers for your previous video card?of course...hm, are you experiencing any other performance issues in any other applications? games?Did you try the website?? See if ANYONE else had the same problem???Clik Here

You may need some more POWER for that rig...well it sais that i would need 291 watts.
i did check the site.
i tried playing it today, and it played great.
i have no idea what was bugging it...that was very odd, but that all of you for your help

Hey guys,
I am slowly looking for a new computer, and I'd like some advices from you.
Here is the build I'm looking at :
Processor : Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 (Deal) $419.97
Motherboard : XFX NFORCE 680i (Deal)
Memory : OCZ 4096MB PC6400 DDR2 Memory (2 x 2048MB) (Deal)
Video Card : EVGA GeForce 8800 GT $259.97
Case : Ultra Black Aluminus ATX Mid-Tower $59.97
Hard drive : Western Digital Caviar SE16 500GB Hard Drive $99.97
Fan : Thermaltake V1 $73.99

This build would cost : $1,093.90 (shipping & tax included)
I want to buy a good fan since I'd like to OC the Q6600 @ 3-3.2 Ghz.
I'm gaming/programming a lot.

What do you guys think of this build?personally, i would go for a true 680i motherboard, and not a 680i LT, but you are getting a good deal buying all those components together. perhaps you can FIND another combo deal with a true 680i motherboard.

another note, you might wish to purchase a thermalright ultra 120 EXTREME CPU heatsink rather then the thermaltake V1. the ultra 120 has been, and as far as i know still is, the top CPU heatsink. the ultra 120, however, does not come with a 120mm fan, it must be bought seperately. for the fan, recommend a scythe slip stream kaze or a sycthe ultra kaze. both of these fans come in different models that very in CFM and RPM, the choice is up to you.

Quote from: homer on February 24, 2008, 06:05:57 PM

personally, i would go for a true 680i motherboard, and not a 680i LT, but you are getting a good deal buying all those components together. perhaps you can find another combo deal with a true 680i motherboard.

another note, you might wish to purchase a thermalright ultra 120 extreme CPU heatsink rather then the thermaltake V1. the ultra 120 has been, and as far as i know still is, the top CPU heatsink. the ultra 120, however, does not come with a 120mm fan, it must be bought seperately. for the fan, recommend a scythe slip stream kaze or a sycthe ultra kaze. both of these fans come in different models that very in CFM and RPM, the choice is up to you.

What is the difference?

I have a dell inspiron b130 runnin on windows vista. I noticed about a week ago that my dvd drive wasn't reading any discs. I checked the properties and it says the device is working PROPERLY. I put in a dvd or any type of disc and it won't read it. When i go to my documents and double click on the drive it pops out and ASKS to insert a disc. I downloaded the driver for my disc drive (TS-L532B) from dell and it didn't fix the PROBLEM. If anyone could help i'd APPRECIATE it. Thanks
Try one of these:
1. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
or...
2. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or SECONDARY Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstal. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.

I have a HP Pavallion a200n computer. I am trying to load a HP 5150 PRINTER. The computer will not RECOGNIZE the printer. I tried loading the drivers from the HP disk and HP website, neither worked. I tried a Dell printer with the same results. Both PRINTERS work on different computers, please advise, ThanksIs it new printer on that machine? Did you follow manual, for instance, install drivers before connecting printer?1. Operating System(s). What operating system are you using on the HP Pavallion a200n computer? WINDOWS XP? Home Edition or Professional? Original, Service Pack 1 (SP1), or Service Pack 2 (SP2)?

What operating system(s) are on the computers where the printers work?

2. Type of Interface (USB, Parallel, Other). When you say "trying to load a HP 5150 printer", are you connecting the printer directly to the HP Pavallion a200n computer (USB, parallel port) or are you just trying to load the drivers for a network printer that is physically attached to different computer?

Hello,

So, recently I bought an extra 2GB of RAM and installed it into my computer. I previously had GB prior to this, and am now standing at 3GB. After INSTALLING the new RAM though, every now and then my computer completely locks up and refuses to do anything until I have to do a hard-restart. This obviously started happening after I installed the new RAM. Does this MEAN I'll have to end up returning it? or what? The old RAM I have installed with the new RAM is of a different make, but same type. could this be the problem?

Thanks
-Mikesounds like your guess is as good as anyone's, though I've never HEARD of bad RAM locking up a system. Usually it causes a blue screen or doesn't boot.... However, I'd TAKE out one new stick and see if it still happens. If it doesn't, swap the new sticks to test the other. You get the picture, do all the combinations and see if you can narrow it down.

Or rather, test every combination with memtest86.com. I actually think the freezes occure when I'm playing a game or something, because so far both of them have happened during CoD4.

Ill go ahead and test the RAM though.Are you sure they are the same type / speed etc. ? ?
The largest capacity sticks are what compared to the others ?http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231098
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145566

Those are the Make, Type, and Size of the RAM I'm using, the G-Skill being the new RAM.

The system has only locked up while playing CoD4... It hasn't done it any other time and thats even after playing for a solid hour or two, its random.Along with testing the RAM, I'd pull out the old memory, make sure the new memory are in the correct slots for a two stick installation (dual channel?) and keep playing that "killer" game. Maybe the new RAM just doesn't play well with the old RAM?

I'd use MemTest86 and test each of the four sticks individually, then the two new sticks TOGETHER, then possibly all four. At any rate you should stress test the new sticks before you decide to keep them.