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Greetings,

I need to make my Seagate BARRACUDA ST 380011A HDD into an external drive. It is currently a 'slave' on an old computer, want to USE it as external drive on new computer.

All of the 'enclosures' or 'cradles' I see are identified as being IDE, while the ST 380011A is identified as being ATA.

Will any of these IDE 'enclosures' work with this drive? Is this drive what they call a 3.5 INCH drive? I am specifically looking at

http://www.amazon.com/CoolMax-HD-360B-U2-Aluminum-External-Enclosure/dp/B000BRWHMQ/ref=pd_bbs_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1203194839&sr=8-2

will that enclosure work with the ST 380011A ?

regards,

stevenjs
___________________________
"I am but an egg."
--Stranger in a STRANGE LandIDE/ATA are the same designation...any IDE enclosure will work.

I have TRIED everything to get a Epson AL-C1100 LASER printer to work with my Windows Vista Home Premuim O/S I have CONTACTED Espon which took four days and they were no help. Have checked their website but they don't list a DRIVER for Vista on it. They say it is "In Box" with vista installation, and thats the driver I used. Anyone other ideas. OjasDid you follow manual? With printers, sequence of actions is important.
1. Computer off, printer off - connect USB cable.
2. Printer off, computer on - install printer software (driver is included with Vista).

THis is our deal we have a desktop for our kids it was purchased in Dec of 06 I BELIEVE. When you boot up the computer it pops up with lines going up and down.
We have tried updating the drivers. Installing a PCI video card that just makes the computer freeze up.
Any suggestions?What PCI slot did you put that video card in? Some motherboards are FINICKY about that. Try the top slot; if it doesn't work, try others. Also, you may need to access the BIOS and disable onboard video (if that's what you've been using).

Be careful to AVOID ESD (electrostatic discharge) when working INSIDE the computer.

Hi, I just got this Intel DG31PR mobo. I like it a LOT. But this splash SCREEN delay at boot up is driving me nuts. No to MENTION it's so ugly too. In the BIOS, I don't see anything about disabling it. Perhaps some of you know the trick. How do I do that? Could I at LEAST shorten the delay time?

TIAHave you looked at the MBoard manual ? ?
It's also available online in CASE it's been misplaced.

Can I put PC5300 667mhz in my LAPTOP when it came with PC5300 555mhz


I have a Gateway NOTEBOOK MT6705 that came with 2- 512MB PC5300 667Mhz and I want to know if I can put 2-1GB PC5300 667Mhz RAM into my COMPUTER. I know my computer can handle 2 GB, I just want to know if the faster memory is OK.that depends soley on the motherboard. if the motherboard supports only up to 555mHz, the 667mHz will work, but it will only work at 555mHz.

os is XP pro-2, allways boot in safe mode why?DOUBLE POST - refer here.

I have a Pentium 4 1.6gig machine that does not power up, reliably. There is power to the motherboard. I think it may be the main power button, but a side issue with the internet has me uncertain.

The machine will run when it does start just fine.

The only symptoms I can determine that are related, are that if it is SHUT down NORMALLY when the internet is not working then the machine will not start when the power button is pressed.

Sometimes if the power button is cycled many TIMES it will start.

If the internet (Firefox or IE) is OPERATING normally when the machine is shut down, the NEXT time you press the power button always start the machine.How old is your machine and could you give us some additional specs like OS and stuff?

suddenly my LAPTOP keyboard isnt working. most of the keys are fine except or a few. when i press the j button i get a 1, when i press k, i get 2,l=3, p=-, o=6, and i=5. the keys r not switched the 1-6 BUTTONS work fine.
is this a virus u've heard of maybe? whats going on this is so annoying. if i don't get this fixed my boyfriend will blame for breaking the laptop. ill never live it down, please helpSounds like your Numbers Lock (Num Lk) is on. You should be able to see TINY numbers on U, I, O, J , K, L and M. When the Num Lk is on it allows these keys to emulate the 10 key numbers PAD on a full keyboard. I agree with "Eg0Death". Your keyboard is fine. Because of limited keyboard space, manufacturers "map" the numeric keypad on top of the right side of your alphanumeric keyboard. If you can turn off the "Numbers Lock" you should be fine.

If you want to post the MAKE and model number of the laptop, we may be able to pull the documentation and verify which key sequence turns the numeric keypad function on/off.

I just bought a new LCD TV and hooked my laptop up to it to try it out. I have never connected an external monitor to a laptop. Everything seems to work except when I play a video in Windows Media Player. The media player appears on the TV but the video canonly be seen on the laptop screen. Any suggestions?You have to configure the TV to be the primary screen. Consult the control panel for your graphics card. It should have a setting for this.Well I right clicked on the DESKTOP > SELECTED properties > settings tab > right clicked the 2nd display and selected "attached"

Then all I got on the 2nd display (TV) wass a distorted image of my background.
Adjusting the resolution got a clear picture of the background but no matter what is displayed on the laptop, all i get on the TV is the background. The option to set the 2nd display to primary is greyed out and cannot be selected.

PLEASE HELP!!!It is hard to GIVE you generic advice because the way you set this varies between the different brands of graphics cards.
So we will need to a little more about the laptop.
Could you tell us what graphics card it has or FAILING that the brand name and model number of the laptop.
Also what version of Windows are you using?
And how is the TV connected to the laptop? I feel like an idiot (pretty much am when it comes to computers). I finally figured out that I have it set up as 2 seperate screens I guess. So when I roll off one edge on the laptop it displays on the 2nd display. So I can run different aps or windows on the 2 screens. Kinda cool I guess. What I originally intended for it to do was just display the same image on both screens.Most graphics cards should support both (not at the same time though).
What you've got now is usually called extended desktop mode while clone mode gives you the same image on both screens. It is in clone mode you need to define a primary and secondary screen.I guess I would like to do the "clone mode" If I can. Any advice on how I might do this? I havent seen anything in the settings. Like I said before, Im kind of an idiot when it comes to computers, but here is some info:

Laptop - HP Pavillion ze4400
Display Adapter - RADEON IGP 320M
Running Windows XPIf you right click on your desktop do you have a menu point called ATI Catalyst Control Center?NopeOkay you most have an older driver then... no worries though.
Go to desktop > selected properties > settings tab and press the ADVANCED button.
You should have a lot of tabs with the red ATI icon.
Select the Displays tab.
It should look something like this:

But the red button over the TV (or monitor depending on how the TV is connected) should be green.
Click the button with a dot inside a circle for the screen you want to be primary. The other screen should switch to secondary automatically.

Click apply and ok to save the settings.Thanks for the help Deerpark. I think I got it. This is my first time using this forum and it is AWESOME!Glad I could help. Be sure to stop by any time.

machine: piv intel core2 duo processor
motherboard : intel original 945 gccr board
when i want to installed windows xp its was a blue screen message that update your bios ACPI complaints
solution: i update my bios from download intel site but error is still
what can i do
please help me it was urgent

Which version of Windows XP? Home Edition or Professional? Original, Service Pack 1 (SP1), or SP2?

It would be helpful to "see" the exact message texts that you're getting if you get them again, and at what stage of the installation they appear. Do they appear during installation at the first reboot?

You should install Windows XP directly on the target machine to ensure the build is compatible with the target hardware environment (which you're probably doing).

In your BIOS Setup Utility pay particular attention to the "Power" menu page. My recollection with Windows XP is that you either build it for an ACPI system or an APM system. Should you change your mind as to which you want to use, you need to rebuild (reinstall) the Windows XP operating system.

ACPI - Advanced Configuration and Power Interface
APM - Advanced Power Management

Newer systems, like yours would normally be built for ACPI. I believe this means you need to setup the BIOS correctly before the installation begins.

Here are some links on power management:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_management

http://en.wikipedia.org/wikiAdvanced_Configuration_and_Power_Interface

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Power_Management

The following link might be the "pearl" you're SEEKING. Half-way down the article there is a box entitled "The Role of the F5 Key and Shutdown Problems". You might have to manually select (from the LIST), the correct Hardware Abstraction LAYER (HAL) to build for your system. Unfortunately I don't know which one you need (MAYBE ACPI Multiprocessor PC???):

http://www.theeldergeek.com/clean_installation_of_windows_xp.htm

My Qosmio LAPTOP started having poor quality (faded, intermittent flickering) on the bottom 2/3rds of the display. Now it is black. The top 1/3 is working fine. The laptop has a nVidia GeForce 6600 Go graphics card.

Graphics card PROBLEM or display problem? How to proceed?Same in Safe Mode?I'm technically challenged...safe mode? And if it reguires me to see bottom 2/3rds of my display, then SEEMINGLY I'm out of luck.When your computer starts, keep tapping F8 key, until you see this:

Yes, I got the screen you showed, and I selcted safe mode. It scrolled thru some text and then went to a Windows screen, but both were top 1/3 only.In that case, you need to CONNECT your laptop to working monitor, and see, if same THING will happen.

my emachine t1100 can not startup . when i put the power BUTTON , computer start , hard drive working ,the cpu fan working too that is all the key board , mouse not funtion and the monitor is black event i have tried to took the battery off , clear cmos ... i need help ... pleaseIf the computer is not starting up and POSTing, I would CHECK the RAM. If possible, change it with known working, matching RAM if possible and SEE if this helps. If you have more than ONE stick of RAM try one stick at a time first though as this could help figure out if it is indeed the RAM or one stick of the RAM etc.

When I press and HOLD the on/off button on the front of my computer, it does not shut off.Why are you TRYING do it this way? It's not PROPER way.
How about Start>Turn Off?

I went to get on my computer this morning and I noticed that it was locked up with my screen saver. I reset my computer and now my on/off button on my monitor is flashing. I disconnected my monitor from my computer and connected it to my laptop and it worked fine.
I have opened my computer and my FAN for my processor works and my POWER supply fan is working. I have no CLUE after that on what could be wrong.

Can ANYONE help?

THANKS,

TimWelcome to the CH forums.

Neither of your posts shows what kind of computer we're trying to diagnose. Please read >>this<<

I use an LCD, but only because my room is tiny and I need space on my desk. I prefer CRTs because they provide a clear image at all resolutions, while LCDs only like their native resolution.I wouldn't say that CRT provide a clear image at all resolutions. Instead I would say that CRT provide a solid refresh rate at all resolutions.

However, with the advance in LCD techonology, we've got LCD monitors with refresh rates of 3 ms and below. Even for gaming, I'd take the LCD. It's much easier on the eyes.I much prefer an LCD.
I find the picture quality is better, and they take up less space.
Also, not all LCDs are only good at their native resolution - I have one that looks equally fine at 1024x768 up to 1280x1024.LCD widescreen LCD screen.i definetly go with CRT. they may have less resolution than a LCD but the dont have screen burn like LCD Monitors have when being LEFT on.Quote from: macdad- on January 31, 2008, 06:34:17 AM

i definetly go with CRT. they may have less resolution than a LCD but the dont have screen burn like LCD Monitors have when being left on.

LCD's don't have screen burn... that's plasmas. Are you thinking of ghosting?

actually now all the crt have heat shinks built-in that prevent screen burn without screen savers.

Around two weeks ago, when I left my computer for three or more hours, the screen would go black and the monitor appeared to be in sleep mode (power light blinking on and off) when I returned. I would have to reboot to use the computer again.

Around a week ago, the monitor would stay black and appeared to be in sleep mode right after I turned the computer on. At this time, I could hear windows starting up (that musical sound), but couldn't see anything. In some instances, the monitor/desktop would come on several hours later...with me doing nothing.

Now, when I start the computer up, it is running. But I do not hear the sound of windows loading and the screen never pops up. The monitor stays in sleep mode (or at least what i assume is sleep mode) and nothing happens...even after multiple hours.

The monitor is a less-than-year old Princeton Graphics LCD monitor. The computer is a 6 year old Gateway computer with AMD &AMP; Windows XP. I have never had any problems with either. Did my computer crash? Is the monitor at fault? Is the video card at fault? I've attached and reattached everything and cannot SEEM to figure out what is up. Any help out there? It would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!
What will hapen, if you boot to Safe Mode?
As for monitor itself, try it with another computer.thank you for the reply.

Going to try monitor on another computer tonight. When i boot up in any mode, the screen stays the same.Quote from: Broni on January 29, 2008, 12:01:53 PM

What will hapen, if you boot to Safe Mode?
As for monitor itself, try it with another computer.

thanks for the help.

tried the monitor out on another computer and, sure enough, it was fried. got it less than a year ago too.

my computer seems to power off everytime i play the video GAME Wolrd of Warcraft. it was the graphics CARD overheating or ANYTHING as ive INSERTED an older one, and the problem still occurs. ive even replaced the power source. and this still happens.

any ideas?Welcome to the CH forums.

See >>here<<

First of all, I'm not entirely sure it was a power surge. What happened was that the power coming from a long extension cord leading from the main house (I live in an RV outside the house) stopped working. To fix it, all I had to do was flip the little switch on the power strip.

Unfortunately, after that, my computer wouldn't start correctly. It would take way longer, and it would show about two screens before it said in it's gray letters, something about connecting my boot devices and restarting.

So I cracked it open and pretty much just jiggled or re-connected some cords, and it turned on fine. But of course, after a while, one of my HARD drives (I'm not sure which one) starts making little squeaking sounds, getting more FREQUENT over time (or as memory usage goes up, or both) ultimately resulting in the computer freezing, followed by the blue screen we all love to see. I have been able to just jiggle cords and revive my computer a couple times, but this inevitably happens.

I seriously hope that little surge or whatever hasn't ruined my hard drives or anything, because one is no more than a couple years old, while the other is about three weeks old.

Is there anything I can do about this, or am I doomed?Over a long space power cords strain to carry the required load. I would get a heavier guage cord for your NEEDS first...
Then borrow a known good PSU of the same or greater WATTAGE and swap it in there...if this improves things then replace the PSU.
Many cheaper made units need only one or two power interupptions to make them go bad,
Best of Luck.Well the cord coming from the house is one of those big orange industrial extension cords, if that's what you're talking about. The PSU actually quite old, so that probably is not helping. I don't currently have one to swap in there at the moment, but I will definitely keep that in mind.

I have some updates on the situation: I am able to consistently TURN on my computer and use it semi-normally only if I disconnect the secondary hard drive. There is no squeaking or clicking or anything, but when I try to play music, it works for a few seconds, then gets jumpy and choppy. I don't know if this adds any further technical troubleshooting assistance, but at least I have a temporary fix.

Thank you for your help, patio Check what actual guage that cord is rated at...sqthreer, Following up on Patio's suggestion. Remove the computer from the current location and take it into the house you are beside and try it in there and report your findings. This will assist in determining if it is a low gauge cord problem as opposed to a computer component failure (deterioration) issue. Good luck, truenorth

Hello,

I am running an olllld dell XPS laptop i got when it was old for its time in 2003.

I still have it to this day but have been unable to play video GAMES because of BAD FPS, even when I'm running the games in high performance profiles. It has run PERFECTLY even in quality based profiles before. I can't remember when this started happening.

Here are some basic specs:

Intel Pentium 4 3.40GHz
3.39 GHz, 1.00 GB of RAM

ATI Mobility Radeon 9800 256mb

My question is whether this is a hardware problem that is causing this or an external influence on my computer. If there are any possible solutions that don't involve a fried video card, i'd be happy to hear em, if I'm gonna have to go through all kinds of you know what with dell THOUGH be gentle about it cause that may not even be possible without throwing down some loot cause the warranty's definitely up.Sounds like it could be a heat issue.
Turn the laptop off, USE a cotton swab or something to hold the fans still, then either use compressed air or just blow out the vents, which should hopefully remove any built-up dust.Pentium 4 at 3.40 GHz was not even released yet in 2003, so I don't see how that spec is "old for its time" in that year.

hey

when I play a movie in DivX Player a popup comes up saying

"DivX Player: Unsupported Audio"
You may NEED an ADDITIONAL audio decoder to
play the soundtrack of this file.

This file contains a track in the Dolby AC3 Audio (code"8192") format.
You may need to install a DirectShow decoder for this audio format in
order to HEAR the soundtack of this file.

could someone point me in the RIGHT direction on what I need to download exactly?

Thanks.http://www.divx.com/divx/windows/codec/Quote from: Broni on February 22, 2008, 06:47:19 PM

http://www.divx.com/divx/windows/codec/

Are they any good? Im starting to buy the parts to start BUILDING my computer. Is EVGA anygood?Seem pretty good from what I've heard. And they have the THING where you can get a new card when it comes out and give them your old one and pay the DIFFERENCE. I think it's called the step-up program or something.O ok ... thats cool. They seem to have good stuff for decent prices so I FIGURED Id try them out ...

thnxi bought my 8800 ultra off of them. i based my purchase on good customer reviews and the fact that they have lower prices then most other Nvidia card dealers.Yeah, they have some good prices. does It work good?I've OWNED several EVGA video cards and have found them to be good, reliable products. If you read some reviews, I think you'll see they have a good reputation.

When I press the power BUTTON, the computer ATTEMPTS to boot, but it shuts down SEVERAL seconds later. Sometimes It boot up FINE. But it does the same THING most of the time. What can be the problem? Thanks!Welcome to the CH forums.

Please read >>this<<

My CD drive door opens and closes at will. I'm running Win XP Pro SP2 on a 4 year old Dell. I do not find any info on the Samsung site nor anywhere else. Any suggestions??hmmm... i know some people find it fun to hack into a computer and open the drive DISC trays REMOTELY, so that may be a possible cause. another cause would be a whacked out drive. you will need to TEST the drive in another computer to determine if the drive is faulty/going faulty.Thanx Homer-my initial feel wasa bad drive. I guess its just not worth the hassle. This DISPOSABLE socirty in which we live.Yeah, it happened to me, when my drive was about to die.Do a search for a file named cupholder...

hey everyone if u guys have been wondering how to play those classic arcade games without using a controller that is bought from the store well have i got news for u. i have been to this site.

http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/snes_adaptor/snes_adaptor_en.php

it showed me how to convert ur old Super NES controller to computer. it was pretty simple. that all you have to do is cut the wires from the old connector and re-attach them to a LPT connector(Got the parts at Radio Shack) heres a photo of my homemade Comp Enabled Super NES Controller. i found the drivers on the same site and then got the emulator here.
http://www.consoleclassix.com/titleslist.html?list=ST&system=
the emulator "Console Classix" has a library of classic arcade games. (but you have to become a member. dont worry its free.)
tell me your thoughts about it.


[file cleanup - saving space - attachment deleted by ADMIN]Personally I just bought a USB Gamepad for my SNES gaming needs. (I was going to say NES, but then I realized that I haven't found a single decent NES emulator besides NESticle for DOS, which won't run properly on XP. (All the win versions I try are too slow). In any case, I suppose it could save money if you already have no controller and IF you don't need that controller for a REAL SNES . What I like about having a different controller is that mine looks like a PS2 controller (Logitech dual-action), So I have the standard SNES layout, and then an extra four buttons (the two JOYSTICKS push down, and the "R2" and "L2" buttons. I set the two joysticks for Save/Load state (hee hee) and the rear shoulder buttons to be turbo for A and B.

Now that I think about it, ZSNES is the only app I really use the controller with, that and a few Racing games.

dude my second link. toke u to a emulator that works on XP.i have a pretty good emulator for nes called biones. i dont have any problems at all. i have ran it on XP and Vista. as far as the contoller ISSUE, i think a SNES controller on a computer would be great. only problem is that most computers especially laptops dont have LPT ports anymore. mayber there will be a USB mod soon.!!!!The problem isn't getting them to work on XP, they work fine, just too slow for me. It's simply my computer is so slow (350 Mhz), but with 512MB of RAM. The question is, why does ZSNES work at 50/60 frames a second half the time? and yet all the NES emu's I have tried so far, FceuWin,JNes,Nester a few others, seem to have problems going 10.
my games, like my SNES games with perfect FRAMERATE and NES games and so forth, not to mention all the games I've purchased that don't work on my machine.

And I kind of lied- Nesticle95 works fine on my XP computer. I just CANNOT stand it's sound output! It sounds like they switched to some kind of MIDI thing for the windows version.

I guess when I get a CHANCE I'll put a little more effort in the search. Until then, my 850 NES roms will sit on my HD. I play them on my old 75Mhz laptop at full speed and perfect NES sound, but it has a teensy hard drive compared to my XP computer, not to mention I need to use floppies to transfer.

I know I should probably upgrade my computer. Problem is, I'll be able to suddenly do so much with a new computer I'll probably spend my first few weeks with it re-playing all

I have a q/a about network CABLES?

A Twisted Pair Cable is made up of 8. wires and then paired off into groups of 2. wires eatch.

And I GET that not all NETWORKS will use every pair of wires in the cable.

But when you see CAT 3 or CAT 5. and other diferant CAT.s is the cable still made up of 8. wires?
Thanksi know that CAT 3 has the same NUMBER of pairs and wires as CAT 5. CAT 5, however, has a much higher bandwidth then CAT 3, 100 Mbit/s compared to the CAT 3's 10Mbit/s.

In general..if machine reboots and always GIVES a MESSAGE: no vga or vgi signal, ...what would you look at?

thanks,
JoeMonitor, MONITOR cable, graphics card.
It would help a lot if you posted specs for the COMPUTER in question and more about what happens.

Hi

I have a canon mp530 printer and am running it through my xp computer. My problem is that when I print, the blues tend to come out streaky, like lines going horizontally ie not solid COLOR. I have tried cleaning numerous times, DEEP cleaning, print head allignment. and still the same. I have had a look inside but dont have much of a clue, though am quite technical if SOMEONE could tell me what other steps I can take - assuming that there is a cleaning issue somewhere. I have tried replacing ink tanks and still the same. This is so distressing as I PAID a LOT for the printer having read loads of reviews and need to do some press kits for a band i manage.

Please help!!! thanks in advance

Hello all,
I need eduacated suggestions here.. I have an ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe motherboard. I currently have a AMD ATHLON 64 3500+ 2.2 Ghz processor. I WOULD like to upgrade my system without the big $$$. I already have 2G of memory and my motherboard seems to WORK great. I have no problem keeping the socket 939 for one last upgrade. The FX-57 2.8 Ghz processor is the best 939 socket they make. What is your opinions on this processor. Considering I can buy one $200 - $300, is its performance better than the competition in the price range? Or is the cost of a new motherboard and Intel processor going to be better. I use my machine for extreme gaming so I would like to stay at or above 2.8 Ghz. I'm also upgrading my grphics CARD but thats a different story! Thanksi dont have much time to explain, so in short, i would save up enough to buy a socket LGA775 or a AM2 motherboard. its not worth spending money on old hardware when you can get better hardware for around the same price.but then you'd consider all that older hardware you got. Like your ram sticks, your GRAPHICS card, etc.... right?it all depends on how much cash you have in hand...
how much is the maximum you will spend?

I have a Q/A about floppy drives?

The data cable used for them is a 30 pin connecter right or wrong and how hutch data can be transmitted?
ThanksI hope it's not homework again...

You should Google.....

The ANSWER to your QUESTIONS depends entirely on which floppy DRIVE is being used. The INDUSTRY standard 3.5" drive has a 34-pin connector and can store 1.44mb of INFO. Details of this and other drives are shown >>here<<.

If it's homework then use GOOGLE.

I just got a MOTOROLA Moxi DVR, and the GUY said you can DOWNLOAD your shows to a jumpdrive or external HD and put them on your computer to burn.

How? How do you SEND a show from the DVR to the drive? I need a driver or something to read it on the computer. Where do I GET that?

Please help!!

Hello. I am a first time poster.

My grandson is planning on buying a computer and changing out the graphics card with a - BFG Tech BFGE88512GTSE GeForce 8800GTS (G92) 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card. Here is the actual link to the card:

Link Edit

He wanted someone's opinion on the card. I know very little about it so I decided to try and help him.

Here are the games he intends to play -
Medal of Honor : Spearhead
Medal of Honor : AirBorne
Call of Duty : 2
Call of Duty : 4
World of Warcraft


He intends to purchase a standard computer (Intel Pentium 4, 2.8 ghz, Dual Core technology - nothing fancy) and upgrade to this graphics card.

I know that I haven't furnished very much information for the answer I am hoping for, but if you can tell me what you think about the graphics card itself, I would really appreciate the help.

Thanks in advance.

Tufthat's a very good graphics card, in fact it's the best single card you can buy right now, in terms of both performance and price:performance ratio.
However, a P4 CPU will bottleneck that card severely.
If he's spending some serious cash on that graphics card, it's worth saving some more and getting a system to match - a Core 2 Duo CPU and 2Gb of RAM would be good.
Hope this helps.Thanks for the reply to my question.

Can you give me a some more information on the type components that he would need in a computer? It would surely help. I noted the 2 duo CPU and the 2 Gb of RAM. What else does he need to have in a computer to make it as effective with that type graphic card I listed?

Thanks in advance.

Tuf1. Check Power Supply. Does it have ENOUGH watts to handle the new card?

2. Core 2 Duo processor is good, but AMD X2 is also another good option, depending on price for the exact model you're purchasing.

3. 2GB ram is good if Windows Vista is used. 512MB -1GB is good enough if Windows XP is used.

4. Maybe you want to get 2 lower cards (like 8500GT cards or 8600GT, for example) and use SLI (requires SLI capable motherboard) which may be just as good if you still think the 8800 is on the expensive end, even though the 8800 is reasonably priced given how much power it gives.in order to give accurate information regarding which RAM to buy and which CPU to use, we will need to know the motherboard make/model, or the computers make/model if this is a pre-built PC.
Quote from: elxr06 on January 26, 2008, 04:23:17 PM

Maybe you want to get 2 Geforce 8500 cards and use SLI (requires SLI capable motherboard) which may be cheaper for performance.

in order to give accurate information regarding which RAM to buy and which CPU to use, we will need to know the motherboard make/model, or the computers make/model if this is a pre-built PC.

Would triple-SLI'd 8500GT's or 8600GT's give a better performance for price ratio than a single 8800GTS would?

And another thing, how does SLI compare with crossfire in terms of performance?

Would triple-SLI'd 8500GT's or 8600GT's give a better performance for price ratio than a single 8800GTS would?

I had a question: I'm going to buy a new videocard (ati 3870 ) but I think my motherboard (m2npv-vm) is going to slow it down. Am I right or not?

specs motherboard :http://www.netlin.nl/sitemap/Asus_MB_ASUS_A_AM2_M2NPV-VM_mATX_M2NPV-VM.php



specs videocard : http://www.hardware.info/nl-NL/productdb/bGRkaJiZmJfK/viewproduct/ATI_Radeon_...

specs computer :

Computer:
Besturingssysteem Microsoft Windows XP Professional

OS Service Pack Service Pack 2
DirectX 4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)

Computernaam NIELS-5CEB8A860
Naam gebruiker Niels

Moederbord:
CPU Type Unknown, 1600 MHz
Moederbordnaam Onbekend
Moederbord Chipset Onbekend
Systeemgeheugen 480 MB
BIOS Type Award (06/27/06)

Communicatiepoort Communicatiepoort (COM1)
Communicatiepoort Communicatiepoort (COM2)
Communicatiepoort Printerpoort (LPT1)

Scherm:
Video kaart NVIDIA GeForce 6150 (128 MB)

3D-Versneller nVIDIA C51GL

Monitor Dell M770 [17" CRT] (8221DM1QFZ59)


Multimedia:
Geluidskaart SoundMAX HD Audio O

Opslag:
IDE apparaat NVIDIA nForce 430/410 Serial ATA Controller

IDE apparaat NVIDIA nForce 430/410 Serial ATA Controller

IDE apparaat Standaard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
Harde schijf ST3808110AS (74 GB, IDE)

Optische Station ASUS DVD-E616A2 (16x/48x DVD-ROM)

Optische Station Optiarc DVD RW AD-7173S
SMART Status harde schijf OK

Partities:
C: (NTFS) 35997 MB (30078 MB vrij)
D: (NTFS) 40311 MB (6865 MB vrij)
Geheugencapaciteit 74.5 GB (36.1 GB vrij)

Invoerapparaten:
Toetsenbord Logitech PS/2 Keyboard
Muis Logitech-compatible Mouse PS/2


Netwerk:
Netwerkkaart NVIDIA nForce Networking Controller (192.168.1.33)


Peripherieapparaten:
Printer Canon PIXMA iP3000

USB1 apparaat Standard OpenHCD USB Host-controller [NoDB]
USB2 apparaat Standard Enhanced PCI naar USB-hostcontroller [NoDB]

DMI
_______________________________________ _

[ BIOS ]

BIOS Eigenschappen:
VERKOPER Phoenix Technologies, LTD
Versie ASUS M2NPV-VM ACPI BIOS Revision 0303
Uitgavedatum 06/27/2006
Capaciteit 512 KB
Opstartapparaten Floppy Disk, Hard Disk, CD-ROM, ATAPI ZIP, LS-120
Specificaties Flash BIOS, Shadow BIOS, Selectable Boot, EDD, BBS
Ondersteunde Standaarden DMI, APM, ACPI, PnP
Uitbreidingsmogelijkheden PCI, USB

[ Systeem ]

Systeemeigenschappen:
Fabrikant System manufacturer
Product System Product Name
Versie System Version
Serienummer System Serial Number
Universeel Uniek ID 11111111-11111111-11111111-11111111
Wakkermaak-type Stroomschakelaar

[ Moederbord ]

Moederbordeigenschappen:
Fabrikant ASUSTek Computer INC.
Product M2NPV-VM
Versie 1.xx
Serienummer 123456789000

[ Chassis ]

Chassis Eigenschappen:
Fabrikant Chassis Manufacture
Versie Chassis Version
Serienummer EVAL
Etiket 123456789000
Chassis Type Desktop
Boot-Up Status Veilig
Netspanning Status Veilig
Temperatuurstatus Veilig
Beveiligingsstatus Geen

[ Geheugencontroller ]

Geheugencontroller-eigenschappen:
Foutdetectiemethode 64-bit ECC
Foutcorrectie Geen
Ondersteund Geheugen Interleave 1-Way
Actuele Geheugen Interleave 1-Way
Ondersteunde Geheugensnelheid 70ns, 60ns, 50ns
Ondersteund Geheugentype SPM, SDRAM
Ondersteund geheugenvoltage 2.9V
Maximale Geheugenmodulegrootte 1024 MB
Geheugenslots 4

[ Processoren / AMD Sempron(tm) Processor 3000+ ]

Processoreigenschappen:
Fabrikant AMD
Versie AMD Sempron(tm) Processor 3000+
Externe Kloksnelheid 200 Mhz
Maximale Kloksnelheid 3700 Mhz
Actuele Kloksnelheid 1600 Mhz
Type Central Processor
Voltage 1.5 V
Status Geactiveerd
Socket Aanduiding Socket AM2

[ Processoren / Null ]

Processoreigenschappen:
Fabrikant Null
Versie Null
Status Disabled by BIOS
Socket Aanduiding Socket AM2

[ Cache / L1 Cache ]

Cache-eigenschappen:
Type Intern
Status Geactiveerd
Operationele modus Write-Back
Associatieve type 4-way Set-Associative
Maximale Grootte 128 KB
Geinstalleerde Grootte 128 KB
Ondersteund SRAM Type Synchronous
Actueel SRAM Type Synchronous
Foutcorrectie Single-bit ECC
Socket Aanduiding L1 Cache

[ Cache / L1 Cache ]

Cache-eigenschappen:
Type Intern
Status Gedeactiveerd
Associatieve type 4-way Set-Associative
Maximale Grootte 0 KB
Geinstalleerde Grootte 0 KB
Ondersteund SRAM Type Synchronous
Actueel SRAM Type Synchronous
Foutcorrectie Single-bit ECC
Socket Aanduiding L1 Cache

[ Cache / L2 Cache ]

Cache-eigenschappen:
Type Intern
Status Geactiveerd
Operationele modus Write-Back
Associatieve type 4-way Set-Associative
Maximale Grootte 256 KB
Geinstalleerde Grootte 256 KB
Ondersteund SRAM Type Synchronous
Actueel SRAM Type Synchronous
Foutcorrectie Single-bit ECC
Socket Aanduiding L2 Cache

[ Cache / L2 Cache ]

Cache-eigenschappen:
Type Intern
Status Gedeactiveerd
Associatieve type 4-way Set-Associative
Maximale Grootte 0 KB
Geinstalleerde Grootte 0 KB
Ondersteund SRAM Type Synchronous
Actueel SRAM Type Synchronous
Foutcorrectie Single-bit ECC
Socket Aanduiding L2 Cache

[ Geheugenmodule / A0 ]

Eigenschappen Geheugenmodule:
Socket Aanduiding A0
Geinstalleerde Grootte Niet Geinstalleerd
Geactiveerde Grootte Niet Geinstalleerd

[ Geheugenmodule / A1 ]

Eigenschappen Geheugenmodule:
Socket Aanduiding A1
Geinstalleerde Grootte Niet Geinstalleerd
Geactiveerde Grootte Niet Geinstalleerd

[ Geheugenmodule / A2 ]

Eigenschappen Geheugenmodule:
Socket Aanduiding A2
Type DIMM
Snelheid 70 ns
Geinstalleerde Grootte 512 MB
Geactiveerde Grootte 512 MB

[ Geheugenmodule / A3 ]

Eigenschappen Geheugenmodule:
Socket Aanduiding A3
Geinstalleerde Grootte Niet Geinstalleerd
Geactiveerde Grootte Niet Geinstalleerd

[ Geheugenapparaat / A0 ]

Eigenschappen Geheugen:
Groottefactor(Form Factor) DIMM
Totale Breedte 64 bit
Databreedte 64 bit
Apparaat Locator A0
Bank Locator Bank0/1
Fabrikant Geen
Serienummer Geen
Etiket Geen
Onderdeelnummer Geen

[ Geheugenapparaat / A1 ]

Eigenschappen Geheugen:
Groottefactor(Form Factor) DIMM
Totale Breedte 64 bit
Databreedte 64 bit
Apparaat Locator A1
Bank Locator Bank2/3
Fabrikant Geen
Serienummer Geen
Etiket Geen
Onderdeelnummer Geen

[ Geheugenapparaat / A2 ]

Eigenschappen Geheugen:
Groottefactor(Form Factor) DIMM
Capaciteit 512 MB
Snelheid 533 Mhz
Totale Breedte 64 bit
Databreedte 64 bit
Apparaat Locator A2
Bank Locator Bank4/5
Fabrikant Geen
Serienummer Geen
Etiket Geen
Onderdeelnummer Geen

[ Geheugenapparaat / A3 ]

Eigenschappen Geheugen:
Groottefactor(Form Factor) DIMM
Totale Breedte 64 bit
Databreedte 64 bit
Apparaat Locator A3
Bank Locator Bank6/7
Fabrikant Geen
Serienummer Geen
Etiket Geen
Onderdeelnummer Geen

[ Systeemslots / PCI1 ]

Systeemsloteigenschappen:
Slotaanduiding PCI1
Type PCI
Gebruikt Leeg
Databusbreedte 32 bit
Lengte KORT

[ Systeemslots / PCI2 ]

Systeemsloteigenschappen:
Slotaanduiding PCI2
Type PCI
Gebruikt Leeg
Databusbreedte 32 bit
Lengte Kort

[ Systeemslots / PCIEX16 ]

Systeemsloteigenschappen:
Slotaanduiding PCIEX16
Type PCI-E x1
Gebruikt Leeg
Lengte Kort

[ Systeemslots / PCIEX1_1 ]

Systeemsloteigenschappen:
Slotaanduiding PCIEX1_1
Type PCI-E x1
Gebruikt Leeg
Lengte Kort

[ Poortconnectors / PRI_IDE ]

Poortconnectie-eigenschappen:
Interne aanduiding PRI_IDE
Intern aansluittype On-Board IDE
Extern aansluittype Geen

[ Poortconnectors / SEC_IDE ]

Poortconnectie-eigenschappen:
Interne aanduiding SEC_IDE
Intern aansluittype On-Board IDE
Extern aansluittype Geen

[ Poortconnectors / FLOPPY ]

Poortconnectie-eigenschappen:
Poorttype 8251 FIFO Compatible
Interne aanduiding FLOPPY
Intern aansluittype On-Board Floppy
Extern aansluittype Geen

Hi, I just got a computer, a used SONY Vaio, but without any hard drives. I TRIED to install my hard drive in it, which is a scsi drive with a Tekram controller. The motherboard recognizes the controller as a mass storage controller (same as my old computer), but fails to detect the drive as a bootable one. I even tried to change the boot sequence in the bios to scsi devive, and still nothing. It won't even go through the scsi device count that recognizes that the drive is connected to the controller.

Any suggestions? Are the controller and hard drive terminated on different buses / have you tried changing the terminator connection on the hard drive to a different bus / when the system boots do you get a an OPTION-screen from the controller card to configure both the controller and hard drive?

Alan <>< And even though it was recognised did you install the native drivers for the card ? ?Thanks for teh replies.

I do not believe it is improperly terminated, because it works just fine on my computer, and has worked on other computers before. No option screen comes up at all during boot.

I have not installed native drivers, partly becasue it has always worked in the past, and partly because I'm not sure how to. Do I download them from Tekram, then put in the XP Cd, and press F6 (or whatever it is) to install 3rd PARTY scsi, and then put in a cd with the driver burnt on it?

I have a Compaq Presario M2000 in my shop. When turned on, it POSTS, gives two short beeps, then says "Press F1 to continue, Press F2 to setup". No RESPONSE from either F1 or F2. tried GOING into BIOS with F10 before the message pops up, doesn't respond.

Can't boot to a CD to run hardware diagnostics. Tried several different ram sticks of the same speed and capacity (PC2700 256 MB) and still the same thing. Took out the hard drive to see if it would make a difference, and it just hangs at the BIOS splash screen. I'm starting to think a BAD board is the culprit, but I wanted to get a few other opinions.

Any ideas?Have you tried hp/compaq's website? If you're GETTING a beep code, then they should have documentation that'll tell you what it pertains to.

Hi all,

This is a really strange problem - maybe some genius can put together the clues and figure out exactly what's happened. First of all, here are the specs:

Dell Inspiron 2600 Notebook
Celeron Processor
256MB RAM (I KNOW!)
OS: Windows XP Home


More detailed specs here: http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/ins2600/en/sm_en/specs.htm#1119395



This is a five-year-old work laptop which I'd never used before this weekend, so unfortunately I have no idea what its history is. However, all of yesterday and most of today, it was working great. Then I removed the battery and the RAM to see what kind of RAM it was (there isn't much, and I THOUGHT maybe I'd get some more). Then I put the RAM and battery BACK and tried to start it up again, but it wouldn't even begin to boot up (no lights, sound, anything). I took the RAM back out and it booted up fine (there is more RAM built in to the laptop farther in). I thought maybe I hadn't seated the RAM right before, so I put it back in and pressed it in a little harder. Again, wouldn't boot. Took the RAM back out, now it wouldn't boot even without it. No booting no matter what.

Then I incidentally happened to push on PART of the base and I heard a sound. I pushed harder, and lo, it started to boot up. But I had to push really, really, hard, and even then it only got to the first boot-up screen before it petered out. It's a very specific spot I have to press - I don't know what's under it, but I know it's basically right where the socket for the hard drive is, and where the socket for the battery is. This happens whether the RAM is in or not.

Only other clues I have are:

- normally all three front lights are out (battery/power, data, power on). When I squeeze hard I can get the batter/power light to go on, and then it stays on when I stop squeezing. If I then unplug the power cable, the light goes out, and doesn't go back on when I reconnect the power cable unless I squeeze.

- when it was working fine, the battery worked really well (it didn't need to be on mains power)

- when I push really hard and let go, it keeps whirring for a minute, like it's deciding, then shuts down


Anyone know what's going on? Is it anything I can fix without taking it to a Dell technician? It's just so frustrating - I feel like if I had never taken that RAM out it would still be working fine. Thanks a million for any help anyone can offer.That's a toughy. And odd.
Will it run without the battery using external power (plugged into a WALL outlet)?
No, seems to have the same reaction whether it's plugged into the wall or not, and whether the battery's removed or not. Obviously if it's not plugged into the wall AND the battery's removed, nothing happens at all.brando, By no st reach of the imagination would i concider myself to be a "genius" however from your initial post and your subsequent reply to EgODeath's inquiry logic (almost an oxymoron when it comes to computers) i feel you are dealing with a connection fault at the power source (battery and adapter)-they probably share a common power entry point inside the case. This probably occurred at the time you removed the battery. Was the battery resisting when you removed it? It may also have been caused by the force you were using to install your additional ram stick if they are in close proximity to each other. good luck,truenorth

So yes, windows configures the drivers for you so you get the minimum you need to be able to see something. That allows you to install the proper drivers and get all the more advanced features working if any are available with new drivers and whatnot.Quote from: elxr06 on February 20, 2008, 01:22:23 PM

So yes, windows configures the drivers for you so you get the minimum you need to be able to see something. That allows you to install the proper drivers and get all the more advanced features working if any are available with new drivers and whatnot.

I just built a new computer, AMD Athlon 64 X2, and put a new video card, PNY GeForce 7300 GT in it. Now my monitor, an Acer AL1916W has a resolution issue. I set the display to 1440 x 900 but is't a little to big for the monitor, say for instance I can't see the right edge of the screen unless I move my mouse over to that edge and the dislay moves to the left about a half an inch and I can see that SIDE of the display. I have to go to the left to make that side move back so I can see it again. I went into my monitor adjustments and the "focus" and the "horizontal/vertical" adjustment buttons are grayed out, you can't use them. At first I THOUGHT it might be the video card but I don't see how the card drivers would cancel out the monitor. I have TRIED other settings and the same two buttons are not fuctional. I have my display set at 1400 x 1050 right now. It makes the display fit inside the monitor screen area but it sort of distorts things width wise. Does any one know what happened? Is my monitor going out on me? I've had it about two years. Try resetting the monitor to its factory settings.This monitor should support 1440 x 900 resolution. Check the manufacturer's website for drivers. (Yes, sometimes you need drivers for a monitor) Ok, thanks. Right now I am on my "back-up" computer (the one that was my main one and will stay the main one until I get the monitor and email issues solved) and the display is just fine. I have it at 1440 x 900 and all is well. I checked the controls on the monitor and was able to use them all so it has to be some thing with the other card.Do you have the latest video drivers? Well I made some progress, I guess. I am working on updating the drivers but in the mean time I tried some thing. I switch connections to the monitor. I unplugged the digital wire and plugged in the analog wire. The display fits LIKE it's SUPPOSED to and I can use the "focus" and "position" functions. I will have to contact GeForce about why the digital part isn't working right.I guess I got it fixed. I downloaded the updated drivers for my video card, istalled them and hooked the monitor back up with the digital cord and it's working great. Now I have to burn a copy of the drivers and put it some where safe.Good deal.

I was getting ready to put my new drive in when the BIOS changed my video settings. I thought the video card was dead so I tested it and it works. But I can't find the BIOS setting that needs changed Pentium 4 Socket 478, BIOSTAR Board P4M80-M4, DDR RAM 1 GB, SATA Drives 160 GB 300 GB, HDA Digital X Mystique 7.1 Gold, Radeon X1300.What is your BIOS part number? You can determine the part number of your AwardBIOS by watching the screen after turning on your PC. While the PC's memory is tested you will see the release date, the part number, and other BIOS information at the bottom of the screen. USE the PAUSE key to stop the BIOS software execution.
You can find a manual here: http://www.phoenix.com/en/Customer+Services/BIOS/AwardBIOS/Setup+Information.htmI found it at the top. Phoenix-Award BIOS v6.00 PG, An Energy Star Alley P4M80-M4 (4M80M609 BS)I looked in the manual and couldn't find anything also looked on the site and didn't find any thing not sure what my intel chip # is?updated the chipset tried to disable the video in the hardware dievices, tried installing and unistalling the video card drivers. So I pulled the card out and tried an AGP won't fit so I took out the PCI video card and every is okay.

My old computer's motherboard went out so I pulled the harddrive out plus the memory card and now I want to put that in this other computer. They both have the same Windows XP. *( Note; I installed the DVD/ CD Burner in this from my old computer and it works although I haven't burnt a CD yet. It's from an eMachine as is the harddrive and memory card.)
Can I install it all and have the 2 work TOGETHER? Is their something special I need to do to make them work together?
I'm not stupid but, computer lingo is Greek to me for the most part so if you can help please do so in laymans terms, please.
Thank you for your time and patience... WEll, just because the CD Driver and such works with the new PC, doesn't necessarily mean the RAM will. The thing about RAM is that if it's not compatible, it won't even fit in the slot, so you can pretty much tell really quickly if it won't work. Unless, of course your going to an older machine (not sure why you'd do that, THOUGH). In that case if you had (for example) 1GB of pc 3200 RAM, and tried to put it in a machine that would only handle PC 3200 512 MB, then that's gonna be a problem.

But as long as your putting it into a newer machine, and it fits, the RAM should be OK.

As far as the HD, just hook it up to the new one (like a daisy chain), and make sure to set up your BIOS so that it boots to the HD you want... Might take a little bit of playing with it, but either HD should be accessable from your PC OS as long as you have it hooked up correctly.

A good example of this is when I put a VERY OLD HD into a bran new PC at work. The darned thing only had like 10 GB on it, but it had ESSENTIAL software for the prepress department of a print shop. The RIP software used a dongle to prevent pirating, but the old HD worked in the bran new machine nontheless.Quote

But as long as your putting it into a newer machine, and it fits, the RAM should be OK.

I replaced a dead power SUPPLY. As soon as I turned the computer on with the new power supply, it blew too. What could be CAUSING that? Running windows XP.Bad power strip/outlet?Budget priced PSU ? ?plugged in the lead to the power switch wrong? I did that once. blew the circuit breaker. didn't try to boot that 386 again. would the computer have booted up for a minute or so if I had plugged it in wrong?Not likely...you may have other issues here so post some info on the machine.Quote from: kdgir on JANUARY 29, 2008, 03:09:20 PM

I replaced a dead power supply. As soon as I turned the computer on with the new power supply, it blew too. What could be causing that? Running windows XP?

Issue: Computer won't boot to windows.

Action: While downloading from Limewire, I left the computer on and went to bed, woke up the next morning, and the comp was off. Tryed to restart, nothing. Tryed system recovery(With disks provided by manufacturer) no good. Said it couldn't reconize C: drive. I was lost. A friend checked it out, said hard drive was shot (80GB 5400 speed SATA). So I replaced the hard drive (120GB 5400 speed SATA), tryed restore disks again, everything went great until the reboot( "remove all disks, press any key"). Now the SCREEN comes up and there is just a curser in the upper left hand corner. I cant do anything. No F1's, nothing works. So I repeated the restore, same deal. What is going on? How do I fix?Quote

everything went great

Could you tell me how to check it? What the sequence should be?

when I do get to the DOS prompt (by other means)

When it ask me if I want to continue( with the complete wipe out of my hard drive) I just select "N"

hi, i have a hi grade laptop with windows xp sp2.

What could make my laptop overnight go from showing images etc perfectly fine to showing gradients badly?

Even when i start my computer up the screen just before the desktop appears show this lack of ability to show gradients properly.
Gradients such as from black to white now show clear banding. Im ALSO sure that videos also have been effected. Its just like my comp has decided to turn down the visuals a notch on its own. I have checked the display properties and they are at 32bit true colour (the highest). I dont know what else to do, please help.

Could you tell us more about the laptop? Make and model?
Did you install or remove anything around the time this problem started?
QUOTE from: marcorossi on February 20, 2008, 11:11:12 AM

Even when i start my computer up the screen just before the desktop appears show this lack of ability to show gradients properly.

press any key to continue from CD. After that there is no RESPONSE from COMPUTERWHAT has being installed RECENTLY? Is this a GENUINE copy of Windows?

So I have an altec Lansing set of computor speakers (listed 2c52) and they work in my friends computer and as well in my laptop, however when I plug them into my home computor (Emachines model W5233) it doesn't work in either the audio out port or the head phone jack on the OUTSIDE.

I also checked to see if it was certain audio devices and none of them work.

Next I checked to see if rolling back or updating my audio drivers would work.

Then I check to see if other users were getting simular problems (nothing).

As well I checker the volume control options and settings.

Finally I pluged in another set of speakers that I have to check and those speakers work?

Anyways if anyone has any ideas on what might be wrong please get back to me.

As well if I can provide any further info to help with diagnosing the problem please just leave me a mesage detailing what info I should post thanks for any help in advance.

Gritoit

Aditional system info:

I am RUNNING windows Vista Home Edition

Intel Pentium D 925 dual core running at 3 Gig

Motherboard (EliteGroup) model 945GTC-M3I was poking around some more and found this:

under system properties for system speakers however when I click on updating the drivers it says I already have the most up to date ones?

n Intel(R) 82801GB/GR (ICH7 Family) LPC Interface Controller - 27B8

No drivers are installed for this device.Everyone who looked over my problem thank you. I finaly got it to work. In the end I did the above then I reinstaled the drivers and CODECS. Restarted my computor and once again it seemed like it didn't work. I then realised that when the speakers are pluged in it asked what type and number of speakers you have in your system. I input mine all the origional times as a sub woofer due to the fact that the LINE out leads to it first. By changing that setting to headphones or any other normal set of speakers it recognises the system. (It seems that the older versions of windows don't ASK you what type of speakers you are using )

Gritoit

Hi All
I have an error message every time SAYING "Windows cannot initialize the device driver for this hardware. (CODE 37)".
I have tried uninstalling and reinstalling both the hardware and drivers but to no avail?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

ThanksTry one of these:
1. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
or...
2. http://aumha.org/downloads/cdgone.zip
or...
3. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstal. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.Thanks for the advice.
I tried option 1 and the download came back saying the upper and lower paremeters where not on my system?
option 2 I cannot open as the files are unsigned.
Option 3 did not MAKE any difference when i restarted my computer.

Once again thanks and any other thoughts would be appreciated.
Quote

I tried option 1 and the download came back

option 2 I cannot open as the files are unsigned

I just turned on my computer today and when i went to PLAY my music in media player it is sayin this:

Windows Media Player cannot play the file because there is a problem with your sound device. There may not be a sound device installed on your computer, it may be in use by another program, or it may not be functioning properly.

It worked yesterday and i cant figure it out.....

the speakers work fine and everything is plugged in right....checked in sound controls......uhhh........And when i go into the sounds and audio devices dialog box, under all the default devices tab it says there are no devices installed......im not sure if i need to reinstall a driver or what.....

it is an hp comp. with XP pro.....it just as the stok sound tha it came with...so I wouldnt even know were to find a driver...like i said, it was working yesterday....so i dont know wats up....

Any help is greatly appreciated,
thanks, MikeYou should get more INFO if you run the troublshooter in sound speech & audio dev, ( bottom left of screen). Or HP site should have info on the device installed, & a driver.check the device manager, see if any YELLOW mark or something like that.
Try to re-install the driver, if you don't have the driver KNOWING the brand of your motherboard already enough.Then Travel to the mobo web and DOWNLOAD the latest driver. If you don't know what brand you have, download everest and learn to use it.

http://www.lavalys.com/products/download.php?ps=UE&lang=en

Hello everybody

My laptop's windows media player stop functioning on a certain CD/DVD'S
and it shows me a message like this

"Windows Media Player cannot PLAY this DVD because it is not POSSIBLE to
turn on analog copy protection on the output display.
Try installing an updated driver for your video CARD.

BUT I DO HAVE A VIDEO CARD BUILTIN with my system. i have tried a toubleshooter and other method
to fix it



Tamnet


"Windows Media Player cannot play this DVD because it is not possible to
turn on analog copy protection on the output display.
Try installing an updated driver for your video card."

Are these bo-jack copies of legitimate movies / have you tried updating the video drivers from the manufacturers site?

Alan <>< Get VLC Player: http://www.videolan.org/DRM is getting better and better... I don't know why they keep shooting themselves in the foot...
Oh, well, must be some stupidity...

I am an old, computer iliterate, LADY that has a problem. My MOUSE cursor moves no matter what I'm doing, even if my HANDS are not on my mouse. What is doing it, and is it something to WORRY about.