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Hello everyone, I was just wondering if anyone would be kind ENOUGH to give me some suggestions.

This is my issue:


I had MADE a movie with music and transitions with my photos on my computer using Microsoft Windows Movie Maker. A while, after that about maybe a few weeks LATER, I did a disk cleanup and defragmenting of my computer. Another few weeks passed and it wasnt until yesterday I went to play the movie in the Windows Movie Maker, some of the photos were missing. Everything else is still the same.

Im not SURE exactly what happened. EVEN system restore on my computer wont work. It hasnt been working fora while.

Is there any way of retreiving these photos? and if so how? ive already tried doing a recovery thing. I searched google and treid a few things but I didnt want to continue in case I made it worse.

Im using Windows XP SP2

IE7 and have the Spybot search and destroy and the AVG free edition. (if this info is any help).

Please any suggestions is appreciated.

Thanks guysTry this: http://www.recuva.com/

Quote from: homer on February 01, 2008, 06:05:47 PM

Quote from: WillyW on February 01, 2008, 05:11:24 PM

I assume that he is going to need the little connector that mates with the header.

Where WOULD he be able to get one?

good question, i do not know of any vendors, but i am sure they are out there. worse case scenario, you simply cut one off an old comp and splice it onto the new switch.

Try this: http://www.jdr.com/interact/item.asp?itemno=SW-PS-PB
or this: http://www.trianglecables.com/atcaspusbutr.html
$3 or less for the item.

I wasn't sure where to classify this as but I'm having major computer problems.

the issue:

My computer will start up, everything will look fine (time length varies between each occurrence.) a little bit after it start up tho, my screen will go black and a little blue note will pop up saying something to the extent of power saving mode, and it will look like the comuter has gone to sleep. the only thing is the computer is still running and no matter how MANY buttons i press or how much i move the mouse the computer will not activate again. and I haven't been putting the computer to sleep it does it on its own.

My brother is the one who built my computer, so i've been having him try to fix it... it's been this way for almost 2 years now. he's put in more fans and rigged the computer to force air to pass by the mother board because he belives the video chip is over heating. no matter what we do we cant make it cool off.

but the anoying thing is he keeps telling me that its fixed and when i bring it downstairs to my room from his the trouble starts all over again! so it works perfectly fine in his room but not in mine.

can anyone help me? please E-mail me if you can help in anyway or at least know what is going on. (i'd appriciate if you could tittle your mail as "I have found a SOLUTION to your retarded COMPUTERS problems!")


Edit:

also when i have my speakers plugged in the sound stops. like if music is playing, the sound will just cut out.... I'm no expert, but my first guess would be that the video CARD is bad and needs to be replaced, especially since the problem recurs no matter what steps you take to repair it.Quote from: roccenstein on February 20, 2008, 03:25:30 PM

I'm no expert, but my first guess would be that the video card is bad and needs to be replaced, especially since the problem recurs no matter what steps you take to repair it.

PhysX cards give you realistic physics to your games that are compatible with those cards.

But are they like normal graphics cards? Or could you use PhysX cards with normal Nvidia/ATI graphics cards?

Just wondering, 'cuz I saw them on the BFGtech site.PhysX cards are physics cards.
They are designed to enhance performance and physics realism in supported games.
They work alongside your existing hardware - you will still need a graphics card to play the game.
However, I don't recommend buying a PhysX card - they rarely improve performance, can in fact degrade it, and are definitely not worth the cash.I agree with Calum, they're not worth the money.
You won't find many games that can actually use the PhysX card EITHER, because it can only do physics acceleration on games using the PhysX physics engine. And few games use that engine.thriced, i agree with calum and deerpark.ok cool. I wasn't intending on picking one up anyway but I was just wondering what it was. Quote from: elxr06 on January 16, 2008, 09:50:04 PM

ok cool. I wasn't intending on picking one up anyway but I was just wondering what it was.

Well i recently bought computer parts from newegg.com i thought it WOULD be cool to build it by my self... this is my first time building. any ways this are the parts - Thermaltake Purepower W0100RU ATX 12V 2.0 500W Power

Supply-

ASUS M2N32-SLI Deluxe Wireless Edition AM2 NVIDIA nForce 590 SLI MCP ATX AMD Motherboard-

Western Digital Caviar RE WD2500YS 250GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM-

Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer 7.1 Channels PCI Interface Sound Card


-Scythe SCMNJ-1000 80mm Sleeve "NINJA MINI" CPU Cooler-

SAMSUNG 20X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe Black SATA MODEL SH-S203N OEM-

Patriot Extreme Performance 4GB(2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)-

EVGA 512-P3-N801-AR GEFORCE 8800GT 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16-


AMD Athlon 64 X2 6400+ Windsor 3.2GHz Socket AM2 125W Dual-Core Processor...



ok so luckily i got all the parts and WIRES to fit... and yesterday i was able to boot it up 3x and go to bios...

but when i closed it i used the i/o button on the power supply.... and after that i open to case to check if u can manually boost the fan speed on the video card.. then i plugged in the video card again.

when i try to boot it this morning the moniter didn't turn on but all the lights and fans turned on. i checked the mobo led and it was on .. i checked the fan on the video card it was on



sooo im guessing the problem is my psu not giving enough power (i heard complaints on newegg that the cpu and video card needed alot of power to run (regret only buying 500W)

or my video card problem

or a mobo problem .... im pretty sure i got all the wiring correct cuz i check bios

and pretty sure the screen works

Hi Everyone
Im having problems with my Verbatim Store-N-Go USB Flash Drive. I had a file in the drive that i could not delete, so i format the drive, after that i RIGHT clicked on the F drive then properties its showing me that the drive is full?. In the device manager the USB Store-N-Go is working fine. I went to Verbatim web site i found the DRIVERS for it but it's for Windows 98SE not for XP. What could be wrong? Would it ever work properly again ? Thank You.Can you STILL format the drive? If so, format it again.With Windows XP, you shouldn't need to install drivers. Did you install drivers when you first got the flash drive?

Is it still under warranty? As Carbon said, format it again. If it still doesn't work and it's under warranty, I'd contact the manufacturer.

By the way, how did you format it? And, what file format (FAT, FAT32, NTFS) did you use?I right clicked F drive then format. It only gives me FAT option. I format it again message comes up " Windows Unable To Complete The Format."Tried it in a different computer/USB port?

Alan <>< I tried on my laptop, its still the same. Was that a U3-Smart flash drive or a regular flash drive?Its a regular Flash drive. When it was working i could go in to this section and set up a password for it. Im thinking because i done a Format that software is Formated as well. Not sure?Before all this happened, when you plugged the flash drive in, did this program come up with a list of options, including a safely remove button?Yes it did. The safely remove button is still working, I can go in to Removable Disk (F:) Properties. When i double click on the (F:) Drive it keeps telling me i need to Format this drive. When press YES Its telling me Windows unable to complete the format and it wont open up. Im getting very close to throwing it in the BIN ! no i mean was there a special program that runs, not Autoplay.

Something like the picture in the link below
http://blogs.zdnet.com/images/xoftportable1.JPGOh, No there was'nt any program like that.I have a problem with my Verbatim Store-n-Go USB Flash Drive. I usually use my flash drive on a widows xp but when i got some files from my friends mac notebook, the flash drive broke or somthing. It says that the disk needs to be formatted. So i tried but after formatting, it says it was unable to format. i even tried the SmartDisk_FAT32_tool and it still doesn't work. could someone help me out please. n9ruto, you should start a new topic, rather than tacking your question onto an existing discussion. A shot in the dark...

At the following link, Under "Your Questions Answered..." on the right hand side, select "Product Support" followed by "USB Devices".
Verbatim-Europe... Your Questions Answered... Product Suport... USB Devices

Quote

I cannot see/have access to the full capacity of my Store’n’Go

This means a password-protected partition was created with the software provided with the Store’n’Go. If you have lost this programme, go to www.verbatim-europe.com to download it. Click on Download/Store’n’Go USB devices... and select the image corresponding to the model of your Store’n’Go. On the next page, click on the V-Safe version that corresponds to your Store’n’Go model.

Once you have downloaded the file to the Desktop of your computer, you can send a copy of it to the Store’n’Go. Open V-Safe from the Store’n’Go. If you remember your password, you will be able to enter it here and have access to the data on the private partition.

If you do not remember your password, please select Settings/Format and change the size of the private partition to 0MB with the cursor on the picture of the key. Please note this will format the key, which means all the data on it will be erased. It is therefore recommended that you save all your data onto the PC before following this procedure.

I want to remove the password-protected partition created on my Store’n’Go in order to use its full capacity as a public drive

Open V-Safe from the Store’n’Go. If you remember your password, you will be able to enter it here and have access to the data on the private partition. We advise that you save this data before going any further.
If you do not remember your password, please select Settings/Format and change the size of the private partition to 0MB with the cursor on the picture of the key. Please note this will format the key, which means all the data on it will be erased. We therefore recommend saving all your data onto the PC before following this procedure.

If you are unable to format Store'n'Go Professional, temporarily disabling the computer's antivirus protection may enable the formatting OPERATION to be executed.

My dad has a dell dimension 4100 that died some how after mine did. Its a socket 370 and there are no codes on the back. meaning the lights dont light up an I THINK the CPU is bad. Is there any where to get these parts still tried geeks,newegg,tigerdirect. thks
Many older parts can be found on ebay.I hate ebay!!! Any other SITES?? Would Dell still sell the parts?http://www.google.com/products?q=pentium+3+cpu+370&btnG=Search+Products&hl=en&show=ddThks never even thought of this.You know you have FC-PGA and FC-PGA2 you will be considering.

The S-Spec number will be on your CPU. Check the below site to
make sure you CHOOSE what you need properly.

http://www.cpu-world.com/sspec/Pentium%20III.htmlI dont understand how to use it. But I WENT threw and didn't find mine any how.

Compaq Presario S3000Z
Wife's computer started to freeze/lock up on her on start up but messing with it a hundred times it will work properly when so I did a complete system default to manufacture setup. When I did this it seemed to work better and run 100% in all ASPECTS, then after a while it did the same thing. I have downloaded all Compaq upgrades and still no help. I also have tried monitor on other computers and computer with other monitors. I am pretty good with troubleshooting computers, but I have no way to prove that this is a motherboard, POWER supply or hard drive issue. I CONNECTED another power port to the back of HD and same result and it feels like HD is working as I powered it up while holding it and its churning. We had almost the same issue at work with our Dell PC’s with the freeze on start and they had a recall on the motherboards, so I am pretty sure that it is the same thing as I have done all the PC Doctor tests on the devices and nothing came up FAILING. ANYONE have any ideas or suggestions, also if it is the motherboard, is it pretty easy to replace a Compaq. I have built my own with no problem, but not sure if it the same easy with a large companies motherboard as far as software and so on as I don’t know what they may have in their software to conflict with this.

I'm using my Grandfather's 5 to 7 year old laptop and one time I turned it on and two-thirds of the screen (from the bottom up) was covered in white. I know all the folders and the start menu is all there because I can move the mouse down behind the white part of the screen and open folders. Nothing else on the computer seems to be broken, but I have turned in on 3 times now and everytime the two-thirds of the screen is taken up with this weird white cover. I have no idea what is WRONG. Help? PLEASE! I am only using this computer because my 4 year old cheap laptop bit the dust and I needed one to get through my senior year of college.Is this white "cover" present from the moment you turn on the laptop?
If yes, the monitor is dead.
It might be possible to repair it but the cost would most LIKELY be more than the laptop is worth.
7 YEARS is pretty old for a laptop.Yes it is white from when I first turn it on.... That is really bad news. Any idea what caused it to die? I will have to EXPLAIN it to my grandpa. This is the second computer to die on me in the last month. Bad.... I don't suppose I can delay buying a new one now. Unless you've hit it, dropped it or in other ways handled the laptop in ways it wasn't intended to I would say it died of natural causes.
Like I said, 7 years is pretty old for a laptop.

Hello, I'm trying to run a computer with Windows XP. Currently when I power up my PC, the monitor does not switch from standby to on.

http://www.maginnovision.com/Products/Product.aspx?sn=465&pi=1459

Above is the monitor I'm currently using. To run a test I pulled the harddrive out and hooked it into another PC in which it booted great.

So I know it's not the harddrive, could it be monitor issues? Perhaps video card? On the first PC I'm using just integrated graphics but on the test PC I have a Nvidia 8800 installed.Try monitor on another computer.Alright, this is GOING to seem weird...I swapped monitors from the 2 computers. Both work just fine! But when I swapped the MAG monitor back to the PC with the integrated graphics it fails to work.

I don't know whats going on

I'd hate to have to switch permanently because I'd be going from a 22" widescreen to a 17". But if that's what it takes so be it. THANK you for your HELP Broni. It is much obliged.Is MAG 17" monitor new to PC with on-board video? If not, did it work before? If yes, are monitor drivers installed?

MY MAC HAS

PROCESSOR SPEED 2.16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo

Memory 1 GB 667 MHz DDR2 SDRAM

The question is: Should not the processor speed and the memory bus speed be the SAME for better performance?

You may please reply [email address REMOVED to PREVENT spam]

thanks
allen

No.
The processor speed and memory bus speed are never the same. The clock speed of the processor is ALWAYS a lot faster than the memory.
You seem to be confusing the clock speed with the Front Side Bus speed. This is the one that should match the memory bus speed, for the very best performance.

The Core 2 series goes up to 1600 mhz FSB (for the quad). But RAM running at 1600 mhz are still PRETTY rare (and so are motherboards that actually support 1600 mhz RAM).

Ok so i've got 128MB video mem. and i'm trying to play sims on it and it freezes up contantly and takes forever to load. game only requires 32MB so whats the deal? my ram is is 384MB and processor is 1.8GHz so i doubt those are the problem. the chip is a VIA Chrome9 HC IGP and i'm running on windows XP Pro. A response is greatly appreciated have you lowered the graphics all the way down? does it still freeze?Has the game ever run properly with this hardware? What is your operating system? yup, all the unnecessary stuff is off, only the base graphics. I'm using Windows XP Pro. While playing, the game runs pretty fine initially but after 15 minutes or so its starts to freeze up. the game loads a little slow initially but if i minimize the screen and reopen it it loads extremely slow, up to 7 minutes. It's always been like this. Same game runs fine on my girlfriend's laptopThat's a low end integrated graphics chip.
Did the game ever work properly on that laptop?hehe, sounds like a laptop doesn't it? anyways, its a pc and its been like that since i've been playing the game. so it looks like i'll be needing a graphics card then. will an additional graphics card work in conjunction with the on board gpu? if so will another low-end graphics card be ok to work with it?.Quote

will an additional graphics card work in conjunction with the on board gpu?

if so will another low-end graphics card be ok to work with it?.

384MB

if so will another low-end graphics card be ok to work with it?.

hehe, sounds like a laptop doesn't it? anyways, its a pc

The Sims System Requirements

Windows Min. Requirements
Windows 95 or 98
233MHz Pentium Processor
32MB RAM
300MB free hard drive space
2MB Video Card
DirectX 7 Compatible Sound Card

Two USB slots on the side of my computer. If I plug stuff into the top SLOT it will work perfectly, but when I attempt to use the same HARDWARE in the bottom slot it doesnt read at all. I have checked the Device Manager and it says they're both working properly, but clearly they are not. I need both slots to work. Can somebody PLEASE help me out with this?to update my original posting:

I have my External Hard Drive plugged into the top (working USB slot) and my MP3 player hooked up to the bottom slot. My computer is not recognizing my mp3 player as being plugged in; however my mp3 player is charging through the usb cable. hopefully this helps somebody figure this out.You will need to open the case to see how those USB headers are wired and if they are hooked up CORRECTLY...

after checking other sites -it is NOTED that emachines have problem with power supplies taking out the motherboard-the t2542 model amoung others-you must change both -dont TRY just the mobo or p.s. will destroy it alsoQuote from: gmselec on February 18, 2008, 05:16:33 PM

after checking other sites -it is noted that emachines have problem with power supplies taking out the motherboard-the t2542 model amoung others-you must change both -dont try just the mobo or p.s. will destroy it also

Quote from: gmselec on February 18, 2008, 05:16:33 PM

after checking other sites -it is noted that emachines have problem with power supplies taking out the motherboard-the t2542 model amoung others-you must change both -dont try just the mobo or p.s. will destroy it also

I have never heard this nor read it anywhere that both a PSU and a MBoard need to both be changed or damage will result.

after leaving my computer on yersterday, there was a storm and then power WENT off, later yesterday i tried to power it up but there was nothing on the screen, but the fans are running as if it was on, then i unplugged the monitor cable from the tower and it displayed "check if the CABLED is connected" or somet hing like that, then i plugged it again the monitor went off again, please help!!!! Were you unplugging with the power connected ? ?
This is not a good idea.
Whenever you lose power the first things to check are the power surge strip if USING one and the power supplu itself.
Borrow a known good one of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there to see if the machine will boot properly...how about if the computer is no display but the monitor is good
Quote

how about if the computer is no display but the monitor is good

I have heard about processor socket converters where you can mount a cpu other than the one originally intended for the motherboard such as the "PowerLeap PL-P4/N" which was an adapter where you can mount a socket 478 processor on a socket 423.

I was wondering if any thing EXISTS to mount a socket 775 processor on a 478 socket. I got a INTEL 4 3.0Ghz HT 775 processor but I only have the 478 socket motherboard.

I cant currently afford a new motherboard and am looking for the cheaper alternative.

I think the ANSWER is "no".

http://hardware.mcse.ms/archive23-2005-4-178332.html
Socket 478 to Socket 775 adapter ?

I COULD not locate one.oh, well. THANKS anyways I appreciate your help

Hi all, for my senior project for high SCHOOL I am putting together a computer for myself...simply because I've always wanted too but I've never fully understood computers inner workings.

Now whenever I come across some vocabulary I'm not familiar with, i can look up definitions all day long, but it's not going to accomplish anything or ANSWER questions.

So my first question is about FSB. Of course, having ready the DEFINITION, I know what it is. But what I'm confused about is what I NEED to look for when putting together a computer.

So lets say I'm looking at a motherboard. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813121059
It says down towards the bottom FSB: 1066/800 MHz.

Now lets say I'm looking at a processor with 1333 FSB, are these compatible?

Do the FSB's have to be equal? lower? is there some kind of consequence for a processor with 1333 MHz and motherboard with 1066?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Jasonyou will not be able to run the 1333mHz CPU at full speed. the motherboard will limit it to 1066mHz.A CPU with a particular fsb requirement needs a motherboard which can provide that bus frequency.

In the specification for that motherboard, it says

Supported CPU
CPU Socket Type LGA 775
CPU Type Quad-core / Core 2 Extreme / Core 2 Duo / Pentium
FSB 1066/800MHz

So when checking out a motherboard, look for the supported CPU information

My father-in-law is turning 90 in March. He loves his computer, but has a slight palsy and has trouble only clicking one side of the mouse. He does a "universal" CLICK which includes both left and RIGHT as well as the SCROLLING wheel. As a RESULT, he loads his computer with all sorts of garbage. I think a large mouse would be the answer. My grand-daughter SAYS they are called "rats', but doesn't know where to find them. Any assistance would be helpful. I've "googled" searching for them, but cannot find any.

Thanks,
*censored*not sure where to find a large mouse but here are a couple sites for alternatives!!

http://www.broadenedhorizons.com/no_grip_mouse.htm

http://www.fentek-ind.com/ergmouse.htm

hope it helps!! Good luck!!

Newegg's wattage calculator says 370 watts.

Which Venice do you have? (I don't think it will make much difference, but . . . )

I still don't see which one you plan on switching to. At least on newegg, I see none that would help you. I say stick with what you have.

I don't even know if an Opteron will fit in that MB? Anyone know?

If it does fit, you will need to upgrade your power supply IMO

Have you given any thought to Vista? I am almost sure you will have to call Microsoft, to re-register. They would be under no obligation to do so, though they may.

My old computer has died a while ago as some of you know (where i got my 6GB HDD) and my current is pretty slow at times. I was thinking about taking my momory out of my old ONE to put in my current for more speed. I have no idea how to do this, so i would need step by step directions for removing it from the old computer and INSTALLING it into the new one. I'm not much of a hardware person so I have no idea what I'm doing.More than likely, its not going to be as easy as: taking out the current RAM and SWAPPING it with the RAM from the old PC.
But then again, you never know.

First you have to identify the type of RAM in current PC, making sure it matches what you want to swap it with.
This could be... DDR, DDR2, DDR3, etc. You can go to crucial.com to find out what you have.as what t_blake07 has said, you will need to know what type of RAM your new comp supports, what type of RAM is already INSTALLED, and what type of RAM you are installing (DDR, DDR2, memory speed, etc.)

take note, if you add, for EXAMPLE, DDR2 400 to your computer that already has DDR2 800 installed, the DDR2 800 will be limited to 400. you will have more RAM, but it will be slower.

Is there POSSIBLE WAY to adjust your mouse so it clicks faster/ response faster?

Sometimes I click to FAST and the mouse I guess doesn't do anything.


Also what are best GAMING mice out there.Start>Control Panel>Mouserazer makes some good mice, also the logitech G5 mouse has had good reviews.

personally, i do alot of gaming and i own a SIMPLE microsoft wireless optical mouse with 2 programmable side buttons. $45 lol.

Before installing my new Canon AIO Printer I was advised to remove the old HP Image Zone 4.7 I did this yesterday and have the Canon all SET up, later when I SHUT down I did the start run clean mgr, %temp%, cleared cookies and FILES, cleared MANY files I think it was over 70. but today when I look in the "Add or Remove programs" the HP Image Zone has returned ? why is it coming back and how do I get rid of it for good ?

There is also something called HP Extended Capabilities 4.7 like Image Zone it uses 269.00 MB. can I get rid of this as well ? my computer is an HP Compaq PRESARIO SR 1500NX. I'm not sure if my computer needs the Extended Capabilities or if it was just for the HP Image Zone.


Thanks in advance.

I'd LIKE to upgrade my computer memomry module from 256MB to 1gb. My problem is i could not fined the same memory module indicating that (256mb pc2-4300) as indicated in my memoty module.

what do you think is compatible to my memmory module? Thanks in advance
depends what your motherboard can support. is this a laptop or a desktop? please provide the make/model of laptop or desktop, or if this is a CUSTOM BUILT PC, please provide the make/model of your motherboard.Go to CRUCIAL tech here:http://www.crucial.com/index.aspx?gclid=cmxfmclx0pecfqf-lgodiwekaw and use their scanner to determine what KIND of RAM you need.

Just finished installing Windows 2000 advanced server on a webfilter server ; machine type is Hp Compaq dx2300 machine ,the only driver not installed is PCI ......Every morning i have to switch on the server again , just TURNS off on its own .... please help still a student my job is on the line..Is it PLUGGED into a UPS or straight into the wall? What other devices are plugged in with it? Have you checked the power settings to make sure it's not set to shut down? What does the system log say?
If the system log doesn't have anything about the shutdown then it's USUALLY an electrical event (power outage or something) which leads back to my first question.Sounds like power is being shut off somewhere (light switch / a timer somewhere in the circuit / janitor TURNING off something?)

Alan <><

OK im royally annoyed as I just recieved a new ram card from ebay after waiting 2 arduous weeks for it to arrive
I have a Fujitsu-Siemens D2190 Motherboard .
I currently have a working 512MB PC3200 DDR 400 non-ecc CL3 card installed and I BOUGHT a 1GB card with the same SPECS. I created a table showing what happened when I installed the cards in different ways.
slot 1 slot 2 Observation
512MB 1GB Stuck at Fujitsu Siemens motherboard screen
512MB - Boots normaly
1GB - same as first
1GB 512MB flashes motherboard screen then quickly goes blank
- 512MB Boots normally but a bit slower 2 beeps

- 1GB flashes motherboard screen then quickly goes blank

You have a 512MB slot and a 1GB slot? Shouldn't you be installing matching pairs? It looks like your system doesn't work anytime you have the 1GB module installed. Are you sure you your motherboard supports 1GB modules?Check your voltage on the 1gb chip. Your mobo has 2.5v RAM slots. You need 2.5v RAM. You might have ended up with the wrong voltage, which will fail in the manner you described. The voltage should be on a label on the RAM.yes I looked on crucial.com and it says my motherboard supports 1GB ram and the card is also 2.5V
heres what i bought http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280199066964
1GB DDR 400MHz, PC3200, 2.5V, Non-Parity, Non-ECC, 184-pin
im really confused about why it wont work. Do you think MAYBE i have to set up something in the BIOS/CMOS menu ?You might have a faulty piece of RAM. It happens.
Go here http://www.memtest86.com/ and download that software, burn it to CD. Then put your new RAM in, boot from that CD and run the diagnostic on the RAM if you can.

If you can't even boot that far then I suggest returning the RAM you ordered and exchanging it for a new piece.The old adage..."caveat emptor"... or "buyer beware" is true in this case. When buying parts for my or a clients computer I ALWAYS buy from a reputable dealer. I hope this isn't too painful a lesson to learn.

Alan <>< I truly have learned that lesson I'l buy from cruicial.com I swear!

I've noticed that when my PC is running that AM radio reception on my stereo in another room is destroyed - can a PC generate AM interference through the house wiring? or is it somehow broadcasting? I have the sides off the PC tower at the moment if that makes a difference and my stereo is hooked up to an old fashioned rotator type antenna.Quote from: ianbell on February 18, 2008, 08:08:37 AM

I've noticed that when my PC is running that AM radio reception on my stereo in another room is destroyed - can a PC generate AM interference

through the house wiring?

or is it somehow broadcasting?

I have the sides off the PC tower at the moment if that makes a difference

and my stereo is hooked up to an old fashioned rotator type antenna.

well there are several factors...
1st is that ur proccessor is running at the same frequency(MHZ) or that ur
sys bus is running at the same frequency(MHZ) that may involve interference but i suggest just to put the cover over ur comp.

yea probably. ur comp is not the problem.

Thanks for the helpful suggestion [ not including the above] and I will wade through them as time allows - I can say that grounding is not the problem; the PC is hooked up to a surge protected power bar; the problem is right across the AM range with the particular station I first noted being 740AM. I don't know if it is a new thing or not as I never used to listen to AM before!

- I can say that grounding is not the problem

Hello,

I recently bought Blaster Audigy SE. I replaced it with my 8 year old sound card, ha ha. Anyway, when I try to install it on my computer, I get the following error: Setup is unable to detect a supported product on your system. Please ensure that your product is properly installed before running this Setup program.

Any idea what this means? As you can probably tell, I'm not very good with computers. I PRESUME both the new and old card are PCI cards? SEE picture below if you don't know what I'm talking about (called "Traditional PCI" in the pic).


Check the card is properly seated.
Have you tried another PCI port?
What version of Windows do you have?

Quote from: Deerpark on February 20, 2008, 12:50:22 PM

I presume both the new and old card are PCI cards? See picture below if you don't know what I'm talking about (called "Traditional PCI" in the pic).


Check the card is properly seated.
Have you tried another PCI port?
What version of Windows do you have?

Did you look at my picture?
Did the port you used look like the "Traditional PCI" port in the image?

The make and model of the computer at the very least.
If you can tell me the make and model of the motherboard that would be even better.
What was the name of your old sound card?
What is the exact name of the new one?
Is it mentioned on the box of the new one what type of sound card it is? PCI, PCI Express, USB, etc.

Gateway isn't really enough... Gateway have a lot of different models.
But never mind, did the old card fit into a slot like this: (Note the length and the separation into a large and small section.)

Do the new card fit in the same slot? I.e. it is neither to long or small and you're able to plug it all the way in.

just recently my computer started locking up with a steady buzz sound usually just after BOOT, othertimes after its been on for a bit and even once mid game, but also sometimes it doesnt lock up but instead i come back and the computer is off. any suggestions?
specs are as follows

its got a new video card: saphire X1950 Pro
Product name alienware
Board model Genuine Intel(R) D875PBZ system board
OS version Windows* XP version 5.1 Service Pack 2 build 2600
OS memory 1,047,236 KB RAM

***************************************************************************
Processor
***************************************************************************
Processor Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 3.20GHz
Bus speed 800 MHz
L1 cache Data Cache 8KB, Execution Trace Cache 12K Micro-ops
L2 cache Advanced Transfer Cache 512 KB
Form factor Socket 478
Stepping 9

***************************************************************************
System
***************************************************************************
Physical memory 1,024 MB RAM
Memory speed DDR400
Memory type DDR, Synchronous
Form factor DIMM
BIOS date 11/24/2003
BIOS size 1024 KB
BIOS version P17 (BZ87510A.86A.0081.P17.0311241511)Is this buzz sound coming from the system itself or out of the speakers?i believe the speakers, i will double check next time it locks up. weird thing i just took my medeival II kingdoms cd out of my cd drive during the last lock up ( wasnt PLAYING it but it was in the drive) and it doesnt seem as though i have locked up since. I am sure i will soon though... will let you know about the sound when it locks back up.
thanks
Jokerthe high pitch sound is from the speakers.any idea if this is a hardware issue or what?Try the speakers on another machine...if they do the same thing it's the speakers.
It can also be some random RF interference...try moving some of the other electronics away from the PC.did it do the samething before you installed the new video card? if it didnt, then you may have a compatability issue between your new card and motherboard. i had major issues with AMD and nvidia for awhile. finally got fed up and changed to ATI and problem was forever resolved. good luckHe's having sound issues...ATI and nVidia are vid cards....the weird thing is sometimes it locks up without the buzzing sound on the speakers, i uninstalled and REINSTALLED the sound drivers, and it still seems to randomly happen, i will try the speaker movement, other then that i dont think i have any electronics near my computer that weren't there before but will double check.
thanks for the help
Brian

For a few days now my monitor is behaving strangely, or, perhaps is it the graphic card? I have an AOC 19"LCD (DVI) that served me well for the past year. Recenty I've installed the new graphic card ATI Radeon 3870, and at first it all performed well. When I turn on my PC, I can briefly, for a SECOND or two, see the first of the POST messages, and the screen goes black (although, the light on the monitor is green, as it should be turned on). If I turn the monitor off and on again during the POST messages, the issue repeats itself. But, when the BIOS POST messages complete, and the computers gets to the WIN XP logon screen (that I can tell by the time passed since turning on the computer, cause my screen is black). If I then turn the monitor off and on again it displays the logon screen as it should, and it works without a problem. That is, until I turn the PC off, and some times later try to turn it on again - the story repeats.
But, if I RESTART the PC, the monitor displays all the post messages as it should.
I tried replacing the cables - put the monitor on an analog cable, and then also replaced the power cable - same thing happened. Tried to CONNECT the monitor to my laptop - the issue was the same, but this time it briefly displayed "flashes" of the POST messages - you can see the POST for a second or two, then the screen was black again - it repeated two or three times during boot up, but it also worked OK when it got to the log-on screen.
Anybody any ideas? Should I buy a new display?
It obviously should be the monitor fault, although, there is a constant error message in the event viewer of my ATI Radeon, which I haven't been able to find on the net.
"0000000001: 2008-02-01 17:57:24:328 Exception : Retrieving the COM class factory for component with CLSID {981145A7-E08E-48F3-A1C4-52C28BCAAAF9} failed due to the following error: 80040154. Exception Called by: ATI.ACE.CLI.Aspect.TransCode.Graphics.S hared.TC_Component::CheckTrancodeComObject processID:04024 threadID:(CCCThreadNew:Wizard) domainName:(ccc.exe ) assemblyName:(CLI.Aspect.TransCode.Graphics.Shared, Version=2.0.2886.28860, Culture=neutral, PublicKeyToken=90ba9c70f846762e)

It occurs every time the computer is powered up.
But, if the computer booted up after restart the following error repeats itself in the event viewer every minute:
0000000563: 2008-01-30 03:03:05:906 Exception : Process with an Id of 1080 is not running.
Exception Called by: ATI.ACE.MOM.Implementation.CCC0StateMac hine::KillMe processID:00212 threadID:(MOM_STM_DelegateThread) domainName:(MOM.EXE ) assemblyName:(MOM.Implementation, Version=2.0.2910.39003, Culture=neutral, PublicKeyToken=90ba9c70f846762e)

On turning the computer down the event logs also the following error:
0000000002: 2008-02-01 04:27:17:140 Exception : The object's type must be __ComObject or derived from __ComObject.--Parameter name: o
Exception Called by: ATI.ACE.CLI.Component.Runtime.Runtime::NotifyExiting processID:02464 threadID:(CCCThreadNew:Runtime) domainName:(ccc.exe ) assemblyName:(CLI.Component.Runtime, Version=2.0.2910.38692, Culture=neutral, PublicKeyToken=90ba9c70f846762e)

Would apprecciate any help.
if your monitor is acting the same way on another computer, chances are you need a new monitor.

I just bought a new computer which does NOT have a parallel port to ATTACH my printer. What is the most cost effective way to remedy this situation? http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/category/category_slc.asp?CatId=471Is it a desktop? If so, then this might cost less:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Description=parallel+port+card&x=0&y=0

And let's see if some of the hardware gurus comment on if one method or the other is more RELIABLE and hassle free.
Assuming a PCI slot is available, I'd probably choose a PCI card, such as Rosewill Single Parallel (SPP/PS2/EPP/ECP) Universal Low-Profile PCI card Model RC-302 - Retail, to add a Parallel port. I think you're less likely to have compatibility issues with the PCI card but, to be honest, I haven't used either type of solution.

However, I noticed this comment in one review of one USB Parallel Printer Adapter on TigerDirect, for Sabrent 6-Foot USB 2.0 to Parallel Printer Adapter Cable:

"This adapter is NOT compatible with every parallel printer! I bought this cable LABELED as ''Wiretek'' but the package is exactly the same as the one here. On the back (not displayed in TigerDirect's photos!) is a compatibility list, listing many HP printers, but only a selected few Canon (BJC-30 / 50 / 70 / 80 / 200 / 200EX / 210 / 210SP / 230 / 240 / 250 / 255SP / 4000 / 4100 / 4200SP / 4300 / 4650 / 6000 / 7000), Epson (SC-300 / 400 / 440 / 600 / 740 / 800 / 850, SP-700 / EX, PM-700 / 750 / 2000C, EPL-N1600), Lexmark (XJ-350,1100,Z11) and Panasonic (KX-1121) printers. Our Lexmark Z31 refused to turn on with this cable connected. (Regardless if a computer was connected or not.)"

Is it common for a parallel port to go bad,I have tried a new PRINTER cable and also a new POWER cord but get nothing.The computer will not respond to the printer.I would say it is within the realm of POSSIBILITY but there MIGHT be other reasons why the printer isn't working...
What version of Windows is installed on the computer?
When did the printer stop working?
Did you change anything on the computer at that time?
Can you try and connect the printer to another computer?I am running xp and the printer would run after I pulled the power cord and reattached it.But if you let it set for a few minutes it would just quit.now nothing.I have not tried another computerI would try another computer if it was me. From what you've POSTED here I'm guessing the problem is the printer not the printer port.

When re-inserting a board in COMPUTER, device manager recognizes it and does not announce finding new hardware. In order to properly install the driver, Windows must forget it ever saw the hardware.

How do I get windows / device manager to forget it ever saw my WIRELESS CARD?

Eh?What board are we talking about?Un-install the wireless software in add/remove programs...
Remove the device listing in Device manager...
Re-boot a few times and make sure it's gone.I am sorry I was less than clear. The device no longer shows in the device manager and the hardware has been removed. Somewhere inside this overly-helpful operating SYSTEM (XP 2) something remembers the hardware and just installs it again AND assumes the presence of the driver - so that letting the wizard check returns the device is working fine. Grrr.

So, the question remains: how do I make the operating system forget the hardware was ever installed???

By the way, Broni; I do not SEE what the pentium II board has to do with Windows trying to be so helpful. Actually I do not know the mother board or processor that well because it is a loaner until I upgrade to a decent computer and a better operating system.Quote from: Paulen on January 31, 2008, 09:53:10 PM

When re-inserting a board in computer, device manager recognizes it and does not announce finding new hardware. In order to properly install the driver, Windows must forget it ever saw the hardware.

Un-install the wireless software in add/remove programs...
Remove the device listing in Device manager...
Re-boot a few times and make sure it's gone.

Before returning to factory settings I had the local ENGINEER try to get all my files off the drive. He copied the whole drive and cannot see any of my files.

I heard that they may have become hidden. Does anyone know how I can get to these files so I can COPY them off the drive copy and put back ONTO my machine.

Thanks!I don't know your level of expertise with PCs, so I'll shoot for the LOWEST COMMON denominator. The method requiring the least expertise (in my mind) would be to put the hard drive into an external USB enclosure and connect it to another PC, making it easier to work with. Assuming the other PC has Windows XP, viewing hidden files should be easy. My Computer -> Tools -> Folder Options -> Show Hidden files and Folders.

I must admit that I've never heard of an entire drive's contents becoming hidden. I'm more inclined to believe that your engineer goofed. You right, I am not that savvy. He has said that all the document folders have gove as if the machine had been returned to factory settings, but, that has not been done yet. Can these folders be hidden deep or has he really goofed?tonylyvle, As EgODeath has made a suggestion involving an "external case" to enclose your internal HD and then attempt a transfer i am experiencing some problems with external cases that remains unresolved. I have learned from the manufacturer of my cases that it is important to set the jumper cables on the internal hd drive correctly.It seems that a "correct setting" is either master or none at all and both may need to be tried to determine which works.I cannot say from experience which is likely to work as none of mine are working yet. But i mention this in case you try that route and run into a problem. good luck,truenorthLet's get back to basics... how did he do what he said he did ? ?

Hey guys!

First of all these are my specs:

Pentium 4 3.0 GHz
1GB of RAM
256 MB nVidia GeForce 6800 XT (used to be)
BENQ DVD-/+RW
P5P800S motherboard
Hyper 6+ cpu cooling fan
450 watt power supply

Here is the story. I used to have nVidia GeForce 6600 GT OC video card after a year and half it died and my computer stopped starting so I thought may be it was the time for it to go, so I went out to Sonaggi computer store and got myself for a simple price a nVidia 6800 XT. It hasn't been a year yet. I'm playing counter-strike source yesterday and I start to smell something burning a bit, then all of the sudden my computer just dies and the smell gets stronger and stronger, I tried turning it on again but it only flashed and went off again. I thought it might be the power supply but i tested the video card on my sister's computer and the computer didn't start with it. So now my question is, what can cause this video card frying effect? Is nVidia giving up on me or is there something wrong with my pc causing the video cards to die? Help me out please.

Any comments or suggestions are welcome and thanks in advance.It's unfortunate you have lost 2 vid cards in 3 years...
There could be a few reasons for this.
The overall internal case temps are too high making the vid card cooling work too hard to keep up.
Consider adding another case fan to help things along.

The vid card is too close to other components.
This can also cause the above conditions...try using another slot if available.

The PSU is cheap or underperforming.
Without a good constant stream of power this will make components fail prematurely.
Consider upgrading the PSU for next time.

Heavy gaming.
Make sure the games you are running are within the min. specs for the card you are using.
I'd say I got a decent PSU, it was before when I just got the cheapest one to get my pc up and running again, but the last time my PSU died I got Thermaltake 420 watt. My CS:S is set to highest video settings since you don't need much to pull that game. As for the extra fan, I used to have one with LED and stuff but it made too much noise so I took it off. I use AGP video cards and there are no other cards beside it, I just have another sound card and 1394 EEEI card the firewire or w/e its called, and they are about 15 cm apart I'd say so it doesn't make any difference. I thought may be the video card could be faulty by some reason and the fan stopped working while I was playing and thats when it fried? but thats the last theory I have.

Do you think I can contact the manufacturers and send the video for fixing or exchange for another one since I still have the one year warranty on it.Absolutely...i didn't get from your post it was within the warranty period.
Contact them IMMEDIATELY for the procedure...Alright, thanks.I filled out a form at zogis.com and received an email back saying:

"Please go to www.power-color.com/club to register and log in DIRECT RMA and
fill out the RMA form. Submit the rma form and wait for email confirmation
with the instruction how to send bad video card in for repair/replacement
Thank you"

So I registered on their website, filled out my personal information and the card S/N and P/N. Before filing a ticket I had to agree to the agreement which states at the end:

"JV Logic WILL NOT TAKE ANY CARD HAS DAMAGED, SUCH AS BURNED OUT AND BROKEN PART. NO EXCEPTION! IF WE FIND IT AFTER WE RECEIVE THE CARD. WE WILL RETURN IMMEDIATELY WITHOUT PRIOR NOTICE."

Now I'm curious what KIND of video cards do they except? And what else can happen to the video card for them to be responsible?Immediately send them an email stating you have contacted nVidia directly explaining the issue.
Send this to the Customer Support section of that web page.
Next send an email to nVidia expressing dissatisfaction with having to purchase 2 vid cards in 3 years.
At this point in time be very businesslike and use friendly terms with both
And fill out that RMA immediately as well and get it back to them ASAP
DO NOT mention any machine conditions that you suspect may be the cause. The fact is you have had 2 cards fail prematurely in 3 years time.

Now i'll explain the method to my madness.

By contacting the vendor immediately you have now created a paper trail that may be needed down the road...
By contacting the manuf. directly you have accomplished the same thing but more importantly you have put the vendor on notice that 1) you are serious about your dissatisfaction and 2) you are not the normal lazy Consumer that will mostly let things slide.

Keep in mind with RMA's from anywhere the stall tactic is their most effective weapon on blowing you off. So we're going to be proactive here instead of passive to achive the goal of getting a replacement vid. card.

Continue with this approach at least every week with both vendor and manuf...always reference your prior correspondences.
And it doesn't hurt to get slightly sterner with each NEW contact.

Anger won't work honey attracts more than vinegar.
Bottom line is stay proactive...and follow up
Chances are with this approach you will get satisfaction.

Best of Luck and keep us posted.

patio.All you said is true, thanks.Hey guys,

I've sent my fried video card to the manufacturer and finally bought a new video card. I'm a gamer but I mostly play Counter-Strike:Source so I don't need a video card thats too hard core.

My first idea was to get nVidia 7600 GT (for $109.99 CAD), but when I went to PC Village and this guy TOLD me that they only had ATI Radeon 2600 HD 512 MB DDR2 DirectX 10 for $95.99 and he said it was much better than nVidia one.

Is 2600 HD better than 7600 GT?

After I installed the card it seems fine I installed the drivers from the CD provided in the box. But whenever I quit CS:S it takes a while for complete exit and the desktop lags from time-to-time slowly refreshing. Could that be because of a video card???

Btw, this is an AGP video card and my motherboard is ASUS P5P800S (if anyone needs to know).

Hi all,

I have serious hard drive issues with my pc. i get a screeching sound which is followed by a 'click' and then the screech stops. This happened months ago which I put down to a faulty drive. The thing packed up and i replaced it with a new drive. 6 months later the new drive is doing the same thing which obviously makes me think something else is causing this failure. Does anyone have any ideas?

I wonder whether a faulty psu supplying too much voltage/current is cuasing it to fail, but i'm no techie and this is a wild stab in the dark. Your expert thoughts would be very much appreciated. One other thing i forgot to mention - i get UNSTABLE performance - sometimes the pc refuses to boot up - freezing midway through its start up cycle.


many thanks in advance,
chrisYou don't have any magnets near your PC case, do you? did you have a check inside the case? Check the graphic card, and other card, make sure they properly fitted, and if your hard drive is failing, you should back it up and then get a new one.Clicking noises from a hard drive is also known as the Click of Death. It is an almost sure sing of a dying hard drive.
Now there is a chance you've simply been unlucky and gotten two bad hard drives, but when you also mention unstable performance I would, as you, suspect the PSU.
If a PSU isn't supplying enough power to the system, it will lead to instability and can even shorten the life of your hard drives and other components.
Who is the manufacturer of the PSU and what is the wattage?
And could you post your system specs?

If the hdd is clicking it is probably too late to save it, so I would take my precautions right away. Copy whatever you don't want to loose of the drive and test it with the diagnostics tool from the manufacturer of the hdd. (Preferably in a computer with a good PSU).
Thanks for all your speedy replies.

The pc was bought from ebay - a cheap hand built job with various manufacturers components. To answer the question from poster no. 2 - no I don't have any magnets near my pc (not any that i'm aware of anyway!)

What do you folks think my next step should be (apart from quickly backing up my contents? Do you think I should replace my psu? If so, can you kindly recommend a reliable psu (I know next to nothing about pc hardware).

One again, many thanks for your knowledgeable assistance!
chrisI suspect that the PSU could be the culprit and may need to be replaced.

Take a peek at a site like Newegg.com. There are lots of customer reviews so you get a good idea for which PRODUCTS don't suck. They also offer an on-line tool so you can determine the ideal wattage PSU for your hardware.

You may also be able to pick up an inexpensive power supply tester at a local electronics store (Radio Shack, Best Buy) that can tell you if something is wrong with the PSU for less than the cost of a new one. Thanks guys. Seems like my uneducated guess may turn out to be the culprit. Interesting that you think my psu may by undersupplying rather than vice-versa.
Do you think that my current predicament with my clicking, noisy drive means it's only a matter of time before it dies and i should THEREFORE replace for a second time, or do you think a new psu will mean that my current drive will be ok?Any drive that makes a repeated clik sound should be backed up immediately and not relied upon for data storage...it could LAST another year or die tomorrow...
As to the power issue a failing/chep PSU will cause these symptoms with HDD's.
Best way to check:
1) DLoad and run the diagnostics from the drive manuf. site to determine the health of the drive.
2) Borrow a known good PSU of the same wattage or greater and swap it into the machine...if the symptoms go away you need a new PSU.
What brand and wattage is this PSU ? ?I can't answer your questions patio without going into the unit (obviously!). Will do it tomorrow and buy a replacement psu/hdd asap. Thanks to all of you.Don't buy a PSU....borrow one and swap it in there to see if it's the culprit.
We don't know yet if it is...Why spend the money if it isn't the cause of the problem ? ?You said that you got it on ebay. Well there are going to be problems, your HD shouldn't just die unless something else is causeing it. I would get one that you could borrow untill you know that the PSU is the main problem. I think that there mite be others too.I bought the pc on ebay originally, not the hard drive (if that's what you thought I meant). What else, other than a faulty psu could cause 2 hdd's to fail in exactly the same manner?I ment the whole pc. Bad cable connecting them? I will have to get back too you but it shouldn't cause them to just fail. Drives should last a couple of years. Post every detail about this pc.Hi. Sorry, been awat for a few days. System info:

Mainboard : ASROCK 939Dual-SATA2
Chipset : ULI M1695
Processor : AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ @ 2000 MHz
Physical Memory : 1024 MB DDR
Video Card : Nvidia Corp GeForce 7300 GT
Hard Disk : MAXTOR (320 GB)
DVD-Rom Drive : DVDRW DRW-6S160P
DVD-Rom Drive : DB4004S OPH842Q SCSI CdRom Device
DVD-Rom Drive : NERO IMAGEDRIVE2 SCSI CdRom Device
Network Card : Acer Labs Incorporated (ALi/ULi) ULi M5263 Fast Ethernet Controller
Network Card : Marvell Semiconductor (Was: Galileo Technology Ltd) 802.11b/g Wireless Controller
Operating System : Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition 5.01.2600 Service Pack 2
DirectX : Version 9.0c

Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks.PSU info ? ?
Also are the SCSI drives running off an addon card or do they connect directly ? ?

The keyboard (microsoft) fuctions normally for me in my profile, but stopped working in my wife's. However, if you hold a key down, it will START repeated that character slowly. But for normal typing, it no longer works in her profile.

Thank you to anyone who can explain this to me!!!!

~ Jeff aka RenoUserHave her boot to her profile and re-install the keyboard drivers...this will not harm anything.
Then re-boot into her profile and make the neccessary adjustments in Control Panel/KeyboardsHi again ~

Thank you. I gave that a try, and it STILL does not function in her profile. I placed a shortcut to her desktop on my desktop, and that allows her access to her files - and the keyboard works fine. I just don't understand why this keyboard works in my profile and not hers. The other weird thing is that if you push a key and hold it, the text box does start repeating that character real slow. Has she gone beyond her quota in key STROKES?

If anyone has any clue what I might do, please let me know! I did remove and reinstall the SOFTWARE for the keyboard in her profile and nothing changes. The keyboard I am using, in case this helps at all, is Microsoft Natural MultiMedia Keyboard 1.0A.

THANK YOU!!!

~ Jeff aka RenoUserAlso - Is the "driver" for the keyboard what is on the CD that came with it? This is what I reloaded. Or is the driver something else?Is there no hope for me?The profile may have become corrected as well...have you created a new one to test this ? ?Quote

The profile may have become corrected as well

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Just picked up an OLD Dell computer (500 MHz with a127 Ram and a 6 G hard drive) and a Compaq 5500 Coloreal monitor. Am running Windows 98se.

Problem:
I cannot set the display resolution on the monitor. When I go to settings via desktop property settings (or thorough the control panel), the resolution is set at 640 x 480 and the tab will not move. There are 3 bottons on the front of the monitor. The first brings up a circle of ICONS and within the circle is 640x480 H: 31.5 V: 60Hz.

Does anyone know how to set the resolution on this Compaq 5500 monitor?

Thanks,
tlcmdDo you have the model of that computer? Did you GET any RESTORE CD's with it? If not, visit Dell's website and search for video drivers for that computer so that you can reinstall the DRIVER. If you have difficulty finding a driver, post the model of your computer here, so we can help.

Also, if you can test that monitor on another computer and see whether you can set the resolution to a higher setting, that would confirm that the monitor is not defective. Conversely, if you can find another monitor to try using with that computer, try it and see whether you can set resolution to a higher setting.

Hi all, I am wondering if someone can tell me whether my Dell Inspiron 1420 has sufficient RAM and processing speed to handle the work I NEED to do. I need to be able to run several windows of the data analysis software SPSS 16.0 (the size of this program is 433 MB), and simultaneously have Firefox running, plus Microsoft Word 2007, plus Microsoft Excel 2007 (the excel files I work with are large, e.g., 6.82 MB). My current system is running slow and sometimes crashing when I try to do this, so I am wondering whether I need to upgrade the system (or possibly purchase a new one as I have had this for 3 years). Here are my current specs.

Dell Inspiron 1420
Windows Vista (Genuine) 32-bit
Intel Core 2 Duo CPU T7250 at 2.00 GHz
1014 MB RAM

Thanks so much for any advice you can offer!!Definitely add an extra gig of RAM, maybe two, and you should be fine.
What is your HD size/free space? Video card specs? It looks like for HD size I have 61.9 GB with 29.3 GB of free space.

I'm not 100% sure this is the video card info, but I'm SEEING that I have:
Generic PNP Monitor on Mobile Intel(R) 965 Express Chipset Family with adapter string Mobile Intel(R) GMA X300.
Intel Video BIOS.
Total available graphics memory: 251 MB
Dedicated video memory: 0 MB
System Video Memory: 128 MB
Shared System Memory: 123 MB

Thanks so much!!Yeah. In my opinion Vista needs 2 gig of RAM to run well.
Since it's laptop, and you have to share that RAM with on-board video (128MB), I'd add just 1 gig of RAM, and you should be all set.
Your laptop takes up to 4 gig of RAM, so if you want to add 2 gig, that's even better.
You have to be aware, that anything over 3 gig of RAM is a waste of money, because 32-bit Vista won't use anything over 3 gig.Quote

because 32-bit Vista won't use anything over 3 gig.

mine uses 3.25gb's of 4

I hope I have chosen the correct forum. I copied a VHS tape to DVD on my recorder. It will play on my laptop running XP but will not play on my desktop using XPPro. The DVD on the desktop will play other DVDS I have but not the one recorded on my new Samsung DVD recorder. In explorer I can find the folder indicating that the recorded file is there but it will not open. I am new to this group. Hope someone can help. Thanks. bmck [emailprotected]Please, remove your email address from your post, as soon, as possible.Which program are you running on the desktop to play it ? ?
You could DLoad and try VLC media player...it's free.I am using InterVideo DVD which will play DVDs on my laptop but not my desktop. I have downloaded VLC as you suggested and will try it. Thank you. BMCKI downloaded VLC media player and installed it on my desktop. The DVD I recorded will still only play on my laptop, not on the desktop. I should mention I can play other DVDs on the desktop but not the one just recorded. BMCKbmck, Just on the off chance this might help. But 1st have you EVER created a DVD on your VHS/DVD player/recorder that DID work on your desktop? Now something to concider. Do you have the OPTION on the recorder to select a region code IE. Pal ,Ntsc,ETC? Have you selected NTSC? Apparently some COMPUTERS (both laptops and desktops) will play either when inserted but OTHERS won't. This could explain why your laptop does and your desktop doesn't. Does your DVD player on your desktop handle both DVD+ and DVD- ? Does the created disk (the one your having the problem with) also play in a stand alone DVD player? Good luck, truenorthThe DVDs that will play on my desktop were recorded on another recorder which is now not usable. My
present recorder is a Samsung VR350 that uses DVD - media (same used in the previous recorder). I cannot seem to find an option where I can select a region code although surely there must be one. Many thanks for the responses. BMCKQuote

It will play on my laptop running XP but will not play on my desktop using XPPro.

I just INSTALLED 4gb of ram in my computer and it only reads under system properties 2.99 GB of ram. Did I do SOMETHING wrong or is this it?http://www.ocmodshop.com/ocmodshop.aspx?a=989

Quote

All 32-bit Operating Systems can only physically address 4 gigabytes of RAM, due to the math involved (2exp32 = 4,294,967,296). Depending on your hardware, Vista may only see 3GB or 3.5GB of the total RAM installed, because there are some devices that are memory mapped. The most common culpret of this TYPE of device is a video card, which can use up to 512MB of memory for mapping.

You can tweak Vista's core to add another 4-bits of addressing capability, but you must have a 64-bit capable processor

Hey everyone,
I have Christmas money and i want to USE it. RIGHT now this is my computer specs.

CPU: 3.0 Intel 775
MOTHERBOARD: ECS RS400-A
Memory: 1G DDR
Video Card: 7900 GT (OC)

Now i have 2 7900 GT's but my motherboard doesn't take SLI. I am looking for a motherboard / processor that can handle SLI and is good for games. But that means i will also need DDR2 memory also. So basically i need a motherboard / CPU / memory, (intel or amd) for around $250. If any1 has any suggestions please help.
Thanks,
bb

So here is the problem. My monitor is having a problem with it's colors. It is not showing any red. Green and blue are FINE. But obviously this is very annoying.
I have narrowed the problem down to the monitor port on my computer (don't know what it's called. It's where the blue thing with the screws goes). I know this because I've tried a different monitor, with a different cord on my computer, and it does not change.

My question is this. Is there some way to fix it? Or is there some way to add a new one, that can be plugged into some other port?
What can I do?
THANK you in advance.Sure.
If you are running off the onboard graphics chip it would simply be a matter of deciding on a vid card and installing it...
Post as much info on the machine and your graphic needs/uses as you can and someone will be along shortly.Quote from: patio on February 03, 2008, 07:38:26 AM

Sure.
If you are running off the onboard graphics chip it would simply be a matter of deciding on a vid card and installing it...
Post as much info on the machine and your graphic needs/uses as you can and someone will be along shortly.

I have narrowed the problem down to the monitor port on my computer (don't know what it's called. It's where the blue thing with the screws goes). I know this because I've tried a different monitor, with a different cord on my computer, and it does not change.

Is it possible to get some sort of converter or something? Something I plug into an existing port, that will give me that monitor port?

Quote from: GN on February 03, 2008, 10:05:56 AM

Is it possible to get some sort of converter or something? Something I plug into an existing port, that will give me that monitor port?

Nope, such a thing doesn't exist. A printer port (for example) isn't wired internally to the graphics card, no amount of adapters can change that. This is like asking for an adapter that turns a power outlet into a water faucet.
And as Soybean says, it is most likely not a problem with the port at all.

Before changing the graphics card you should check the color settings in Windows. Most graphics card drivers have their own color settings. Maybe the red color is turned down there.

How old is your computer? Less than 2 years, right? Did this problem start all of a sudden?

Does your monitor have some color settings, accessed by buttons on front of the monitor? What make and model monitor is it?

Well, based on comments in your last post, I'd definitely want to try that monitor on another computer to rule out the monitor as the source of the problem, before you go out and buy a video card.

When I boot up the COMPUTER the FIRST thing I get is an INVALID drive error. It's the same HARD drive that has been in the MACHINE. I have a feeling that the set up is incorrect. How do I restore the setup defaultsWelcome to the CH forums.

Please read this

I have an Astone portable *SPAM* hard drive that I have been using to back up cheap *SPAM* files for about a year. I have been accessing files over the last few days, but yesterday after plugging the portable hard drive buy *SPAM* into the USB port I got a message to say that the hard drive was not formatted, and asked whether I wanted to format the world of warcraft gold disk now. I didn't re-format the portable hard drive for fear of losing any data that MAY still be there.

Is there a way of recovering wow any data that may be there, or has it GONE world of warcraft already (if I check the Properties of the hard drive it shows Used Space: 0 BYTES and Free Space: 0 bytes)?

ThanksWelcome to the CH forums.

Do you have the drive manufacturer's diagnostics program to test the drive?

Like any other electro/mechanical device, drives are likely to suffer catastrophic failure at any time, I hope you have other backup available.

Good luck

My brother's computer is giving a disc read error when he tries to start it up.
I tried fixboot and chkdsk but that didn't work. I was going to try re-installing windows but it won't let me without formatting the drive and since the data on the drive isn't backed up I can't do that. I put the drive onto my computer and it seems to work but I can't find his My Documents folder and that is where all his stuff is that he needs backed up. Can anyone tell me how to find the My Documents folder, and is there a way to re-install windows without formatting the hard drive? When I look at the properties of the drive it says the total size is 114 GB with 5.54 GB free but when I add up the size of everything that shows inside the drive it comes to 68.5 GB. That is including all the hidden folders. The missing amount WOULD be about right for the My Documents folder as that is where he keeps his multimedia stuff.
The hard drive is a SATA Maxtor 6Y120M0On XP My documents default location is C:\Documents and Settings\[USERNAME]\My Documents
On Vista the folder is called Documents and is LOCATED at C:\Users\[USERNAME]\Documents

If the hard drive is giving you read errors it could be failing. I suggest you backup the data you need on it and check it over with the diagnostics tool from the hdd manufacturer. In this case Seatools.
Quote from: Deerpark on February 02, 2008, 07:37:21 AM

On XP My documents default location is C:\Documents and Settings\[USERNAME]\My Documents
On Vista the folder is called Documents and is located at /url].