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Quote from: tixsao on August 27, 2012, 10:06:22 AM

1. ...must have degraded over the years.
2. Temps still peaking in the 90's when gaming but drops back into the 70's when not under load, is that a concern?

I then put the new heatsink - which came with compound on it - on the cpu.

Is it possible the problem is the CPU?

Whats the vcore?

On the program i am using to monitor the temp its showing the power package as 95.00 W, is that the same thing?

For some reason, my computer stopped recognizing ANY solid state drives. I've plugged in 2 external USB hard drives and thumb drives, and nothing works anymore.

Please help.Good evening Xaybiance and welcome to CH

Please try supply just as much information

What OS (XP, Windows7 etc) and what bit VERSION 32 bit 64 bit
What SP (service pack) SP1 etc
What model PC
Does this only happen on the BACK USB port or just front etc
Do you have USB mice or keyboards etc and if so do they work

Hope to hear from you soon, Mike OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 32-bit

PC Model: Gateway 7200XL (desktop)

This happens when I plug in any USB Hard Drive to ANY USB port.

I'm using a USB keyboard and A USB mouse, both are working fine.

I just want to get 2 of my USB External Hard drives working on my computer again.

Models of External SSD's:
SEAGATE 9sd2a4-500
Hitachi 0s03452


Here's the story:
I had the Seagate HD working perfectly for the past year on my computer. I plug
it in one day and I get the error message "USB device not recognized" at the
bottom right of the screen. I ASSUMED that my hard drive needed to be replaced,
so I bought a new one.

I transferred all my data onto the new Hard drive using my friends laptop.
(I found out later that the Seagate was working perfectly on other computers)

I finally plugged in my new hard drive, the Hitachi, into MY computer. All my data
was visible, but I couldn't open any of the files. ( I got various error messages
depend on the file) I restarted my computer just to see if that would do the trick.
But alas, I was getting the "USB Device Not Recognized" again.

I noticed upon restarting my computer, if I had my Nook and Hitachi SSD plugged
in simultaneously, I wasn't able to access my files. If I unplugged my nook and
restarted my computer THEN plugged my Hitachi SSD, (In that order) I was able to access everything.

Now, what I'm really trying to do is put some of my audio books/Ebooks on my nook, which are
currently on my external Hard drives.

This is where I'm lost.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

-XayGood MORNING Xaybiance and welcome back to CH

Thank you for supplying the info. You may have a couple of problems. Your PC was built for windows XP and Gateway does not offer and drivers for Vista or Windows 7.

****Before you make any changes on your PC make sure you have your data backed up just to be safe

Open the device manager on your PC and see if there is any yellow or red symbols if so what are they? If there is not plug in the hard drive into the USB port and now look at the device manager is there any yellow or red symbols now if so what are they?

Your chipset on the motherboard is Intel 915G Express. Intel does not publish a driver pack for the 900 / 910 / 915 chips. I did check Gateways site and had no luck. But here is Intel's link for it to detect and update the drivers automatically http://www.intel.com/p/en_US/support/detect Please use at your own risk. But I have used the Intel UT many times before with no issues

What you are describing is a driver issue either not present or corrupt. Please let us know how you make out. Mike

hello i have a hp laptop and a samsung tv.

i plug in my tv to my laptop through an hdmi cable. the picture is great and having no issues, but there is no sound and when i go to sound mixer, device manage, and manage sound from control panel my laptop
doesnt seem to recognize the sound even though the pic still appears.

please help

thank you very much in advanceGood evening blader3685 and welcome to CH

I do have a couple of questions for you.

#1... What OS (operating system) do you have (i.e XP, Vista, Windows 7 etc)
#2... Did you try plugging the laptop using the HDMI cable into another TV to see if you still have the same no sound issue.
#3... In your video driver control panel is your TV LISTED?
#4... When you have everything hooked up by the HDMI cable look in the device manager to see if there is any yellow or red items.
#5... How good of a quality is the cable (i am not trying to be a wise guy ) I have run into many problems with lower QT cables.

Hope to hear from you soon, Mike#1 i have windows 7
#2 no this is the only tv with hdmi hook ups in the HOUSE but probably 3months ago i was able to do it with no problems
#3 i checked the device manager and under display adapters it didnt show anything
#4 there isnt
#5 ive used the same cable with the same tv and same laptop before and i worked fine

thank you very much for trying to help me with my problem Welcome back blader3685

Thank you for the information, I would update your chipset drivers, video drivers and last the audio drivers. If the rest is was OK then a driver maybe corrupt.

Sometimes the windows 7 drivers specifically laptop drivers that you are BETTER off using HP drivers to see if they have a more up to date one or it will fix the corrupt driver that you may have. http://www8.hp.com/us/en/support-drivers.html just PUT in the full laptop models name and then pick the windows 7 bit version 32 or 64 bit and then find the drivers for the above

Please let us know how you make out, Mike Have you tried searching other thread from HP? http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-PC-Sound-and-Audio/Cannot-hear-audio-via-HDMI-laptop-to-TV-connection/td-p/6243thank you so much hartbeatmr i pretty much updated every driver on hps website just because and i took some messing with but i got it working.

i always forget about drivers and stuff like that since its not something that usually goes wrong but oh well it works great and now i get to watch bleach on a 50inch tv instead of a 17.3inch monitor

once again just thank you hartbeatmrGood morning blader3685

You are very welcome that is why we are here , I am happy for you that it is all set. Mike

Hello:
Please offer me any feed back on the good or bad aspects of these SpeedStream 4100 modem stats.



My modem seems to be working well but I am getting way less than the 1.5 Meg line speed that DSL Extreme ISP promised me. Before I rush off to buy another modem I want to know if my current modem is OK, if it's a phone line PROBLEM or a cheating ISP.

My computer details:
Drive: C Dell dimension 3000 39 GB NFTS
Win xp, sp3, home ed.
Model # ST340014A
Motherboard: 0K8980
CPU: Intel Pentium 4 2.80 GHz
Memory: DDR Dual 512 MB
miscel. browsers

Thanks in advance for any responses to my modem's stats and/or any questions about my system or equipment,
jim Good morning jimrich and welcome to CH

Here are a couple of things to keep in mind.

Just in-case you don't know this: What most ISP's do not guarantee anything and certain items like download speed and or upload speed and the same thing for down time. "I am getting way less than the 1.5 Meg line speed that DSL Extreme ISP promised me"

But you may want to check a couple of things.
#1... Most DSL set up's must have a filter on every phone /answering machine etc. Not having these will greatly affect speed / quality etc
#2... Pick up a house phone and listen really close if you hear clicks, pops, hissing etc that also will affect the DSL service.
#3... Check phone lines in the house if any lines have bear spots, chew marks, moisture.
#4... Some homes have a plastic box on the outside (Grey or Blue Box) and in there is a phone jack if you plug in a phone and the sound is clear but maybe it is not so clear in the house then you may have an issue some where.
#5... DSL internet is one of the most sensitive broadband around. Your issue may not even be a issue with you or your equipment it could be out on the pole etc.
#6... Inexpensive phones will also cause an issue (I am not trying to be a wise guy )

Please remember that your internet connection will go up and down and that is nature of the beast.

Hope this helps, please let us know if there is any other questions or need more help. Mike Hi Mike:
thanks for reply.
I am in an apt so checking lines is limited.
I am interested in those readings from my modem stats.
Re: Maximum allowed speed - do you think that is a cap/limit built into the modem itself?
I guess the SN & ATT numbers are about bad phone lines!
My ISP tells me to get a phone line service check and/or a different modem to COMPARE with mine.
Will let you know how things turn out,
Jim Given that you are in an apartment ask a few of your fellow occupants what their experience is. Very likely you will find they use a variety of equipment and ISP providers. For credibility of assessment differences ensure that the type of service is the same. IE: DSL/DSL. Those items that heartbeatmr has mentioned are factors that can have a bearing HOWEVER in an apt. situation most of them should be common to all.truenorththanks for reply.

I got a new D-LINK modem from FRY's and it gives me LOWER line speeds than my old Siemens - so go figure.......

Hello All,

I just moved in to a University Apartment. I set up my desktop and powered it, by itself, on. It ran for about 30 seconds and then tripped the breaker for the room. I called maintenance who came and reset it. Once again I attempted to turn it on and about a minute later it tripped again. Maintenance swears up and down that the breaker is good and that it must be the desktop.

My machine was build in 09 with the following parts:

Sunbeam PSU-H680-REV-US-BL 680W ATX 12V 2.0 Power Supply
GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3R LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard
Intel Core 2 QUAD Q6600
4GB DDR2 RAM
90 GB SSD
350GB 5400RPM HDD

My question is that is it possible for the PSU to degrade to the point of over drawing? Theoretically it should draw a MAX of around 6 amps. Much lower than the 15-20 amp threshold of the breaker.

I've powered up everything else including an Xbox 360, TV, and a MacBook Pro running on wall power / charging; and no issues.

Thanks again.
JohnIf the PSU is faulty, it can certainly trip a breaker, regardless of how much it should draw or what is connected to it. I've had several PSUs blow fuses/breakers when connected to just a power supply tester, meaning almost no load at all.
I would say in all probability your power supply is toast - the only other possibility is a bad power cable, worth a shot but it's unlikely to be that.Thanks!

IVE replaced the cords and surge protector so it must be that then. Kills me to buy from Best Buy but I need it for class, So ill run over there and grab a new one.

I'll post my results later today.Quote from: LtRyan5184 on August 25, 2012, 09:46:27 AM

My question is that is it possible for the PSU to degrade to the point of over drawing? Theoretically it should draw a MAX of around 6 amps. Much lower than the 15-20 amp threshold of the breaker.

I'm sorry if I gave the wrong impression with my post

I play The Sims 3 and EP's. My game continues to crash my computer is TOSHIBA Satellite C675, I am not sure if it's my computer or whatever. Maybe someone can help me? Is there a way to upgrade The Graphics card? Below is my dxdiag.


System Information
------------------
Time of this report: 8/12/2012, 10:31:55
MACHINE name: MS_HOME-PC
Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit (6.1, Build 7601) Service Pack 1 (7601.win7sp1_gdr.120503-2030)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: TOSHIBA
System Model: Satellite C675
BIOS: BIOS Date: 11/25/11 14:04:51 Ver: 04.06.03
Processor: Intel(R) Pentium(R) CPU B960 @ 2.20GHz (2 CPUs), ~2.2GHz
Memory: 8192MB RAM
Available OS Memory: 8104MB RAM
Page File: 2062MB used, 14143MB available
Windows Dir: C:\windows
DirectX Version: DirectX 11
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
User DPI Setting: Using System DPI
System DPI Setting: 96 DPI (100 percent)
DWM DPI Scaling: Disabled
DxDiag Version: 6.01.7601.17514 32bit Unicode

-Post edited for brevity by AllanGood evening Sims_Lover and welcome to CH

"Is there a way to upgrade The Graphics card?" There is no video card upgrade the video card is a chip that is soldered into the motherboard

#1... Have you tried to adjust some of the video SETTINGS in the game OPTIONS?
#2... Does the game freeze up or do you get any messages, does the game just quit? what is it doing to you during the game.
#3... Do you have any issues with the PC other than the game, do get any errors on the laptop?
#4... Has the game ever run correct since it was installed.
#5... Here is the web site to get all available patches for the game some fix game play maybe it will help. http://www.thesims3.com/game/patches

Hope to HEAR from you soon, Mike

I have a choice between 3 computer and need to know which one is duh best!:3

1.
AMD phemon II x4 955 Quadcore 3.2Ghz Processor
8GB Ram 1600mhz Corsair Gaming Series
1TB Hard Drive
Nvidia Geforce 250GTS video card, pci-express, 2 monitor outputs that can also HANDLE 3 or more multiple displays
DVD-RW DVD and CD BURNER with Lightscribe
Windows 7 64 Bit

2.
650 watt power supply (name brand, not china so its REALLY 650 watts)
500 GB HARD DRIVE
WINDOWS 7 ULTIMATE 64 BIT
4 GB RAM (UPGRADEABLE TO 16 GB)
GEFORCE 8800 GT VIDEO CARD (DUAL VIDEO, CAN RUN SLI)
DVD / CD BURNER
CREATIVE 7.1 SURROUND SOUND CARD
THERMALTAKE CASE (SUPER NICE, GIANT FANS, LED'S, ETC.)
ESATA
DUAL CORE INTEL CPU 64BIT (UPGRADEABLE TO QUAD CORE)

3.
AMD 3.4Ghz Dualcore Processor
Aftermarket Triple Copper Pipe Heatsink CPU Cooler
Red LED Lighted Fan on the Front, Blue LED Lighted Graphics Cooling Fan on the Inside
MSI Gaming Motherboard with Quad CrossfireX Support, 7.1HD True Blu-Ray Audio, Dual Ethernet PORTS! Also has a Built-In Overclocking Utility with Overclockers knob and one push CMOS BIOS Reset!
8GB DDR3 High Performance Ram
500GB SATA Hard Drive
Dual Layer DVD-RW DVD and CD Burner
ATI Radeon 5450 Graphics Card with 512MB DDR3, Dual Monitor Support and HDMI 1080p Output!
Box, Manual, and Disc Included!
Windows 7 Ultimate 64 BitIt depends on the usage.

Hi,
My computer shuts down and I would like some suggestions on how to fix it please.
I am running Vista 64, dual core.
When I say shuts down, I mean the CP turns off, no warning, nothing.

I have opened the CASE and all 3 fans are running.
I have installed heat monitor software and nothing gets above 53c.
I have cleaned all fans.

I do not think it is a VIRUS issue, I ALWAYS update antivir and run DISK frag, ccleaner etc.
I have removed all unnecessary hardware.
I have fitted a different master HD with xp on and it still cuts out, so I do not think it is the HD, I also ran some software to check, no problems occurred.
I have gone into the device management and there are no warnings there.

It cuts out after about 30 minutes, but I can turn it back on straight away, but it will then cut out in 10 minutes.
When it starts again, it sometimes goes into scandsk mode.
I think it is a hardware issue.

Do you think the heatsink on the fan has worn off?
As some of you know, this is a pain to check and I have to remove the CPU, clean the HS, apply more and then install to check it!
Memory failure?

Thanks guys
Will.Good morning will108 and welcome to CH

Please supply some more info

What model is the PC (i.e HP a6400f or a custom built) if it is custom built what model is the MoBo (i.e ms-7105 etc)
What model is the PS (power supply) and wattage
What software was used "I have fitted a different master HD with xp on and it still cuts out, so I do not think it is the HD, I also ran some software to check, no problems occurred."
When it is just about ready to shut off does anything happen error messages or BSOD messages
Is it making noise "Do you think the heatsink on the fan has worn off?"
Hope to hear from you soon, Mike Thanks Mike.
I am at work, so I cant get some information.
Model: Custom built by Image Publishing for one of there articles. I think Acer, but its a nice one. 4GB ram, 500GB.
Power is about 550w, have checked and should be fine.
HD checking software was a opensource generic one, will get the name soon, but as stated, the other HD did the same.
When ready to shut off, nothing happens, its a shock, no freeze up, no slow down, nothing.
I do not play games on it, just email, surf etc.
Nope, no noise expect for the 3 fans working hard!

Thanks
Will.I think it is the power supply!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IasTFv174Y
I will post a fix if I get one.
Thanks
Will.Do some house cleaning first and maybe open the side panel when using the desktop.

Hi

Since yesterday my second PC doesn't boot anymore it has the following hardware:


Quote

Gigabyte GA-MA78GM-UD2H
AMD Phenom II X3 710

CPU temps: 28 degrees

Good morning weeman and welcome to CH

So this is a recent build and was running normal if so have you seen any error messages / bsod etc

When the monitor has no signal is the tower running and the case lights stay on or it the PC shutting down like BAM and it is off

From what you are putting in the post you may have a bad PS (power supply) what model is the PS on the label and how much is the wattage?

Hope to hear from you soon, Mike

...
1. When i turned it on today it booted fine again but the my monitor lost signal after 20 seconds.
2. So i let it cool down and turned it on and went in BIOS. Loaded default settings(pc wasn't overclocked) and checked CPU temps.
3. Monitor lost signal again in bios after 20 seconds.
...
4. i'm using my onboard videocard of my motherboard, there are no beep codes

Hey, I recently got a new iBUYPOWER GAMER POWER TG500 Gaming PC shipped today, and am having trouble with getting it to work properly.
Computer specs shtuff:
AMD FX-4100 3.6GHz
8GB DDR3
500GB HDD
NVIDIA GeForce GT 520
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit


I'm too lazy to explain it all, so I'll just provide pics:

First it goes through the normal start-up screen, then gives this screen


I then insert this disk


Reads the disk


Quickly changes to this screen after that


If I choose any of those 4 options, it will give a message "Reboot system now Press any KEY to continue...". Then, when I press a key, it just reboots the system and goes through the same set of MESSAGES. Help, please? And sorry if it's something really simple, I'm a total newb when it comes to computer stuff x)OK, but this was NOT a home build. -Right?
If that is how it came to you, look for loose cables or r any obvious shipping damage. Contact the vendor right now! You don't have to troubleshoot a problem you did not create.
Let us know what they say.I already emailed tech-support, but they haven't responded yet, and I wanna make sure I get this solved right.Remove any cd's or floppy discs and reboot.Without the disk I just get stuck on the first screen "Insert boot media", and if I try to remove the disk on the last screen it will give me a whole bunch of errors when I try to do anything, and will let me enter in a command instead of restarting like when I have the disk in.Well the cd isn't bootable so having in there is serving no purpose. If it's a new system and it won't boot, call the company from which you purchased it.I emailed the company, and they replied telling me to open up my PC and try to see if any cords are loose. Email:
"If the system is not booting into Windows and getting these specific error it seems there could be a loose cable on the hard DRIVE which it is not detecting. A step you can take is try powering the system FULLY down then remove the right side panel of the case. This way you can check the 2 SATA connectors on the drive to ensure they are fully secure. You should have 1 flat colored cable which is a SATA DATA cable. Directly to the right you should have a larger connection with 4 colored wires going into it. This is the SATA Power cable. If both are already connected try re-seating both cables back onto the drive then test. Windows is pre-installed onto the PC which you should be able to load into Windows and all device drivers are already loaded. If needing assistance in this process feel free to contact us at the number below and a technician can assist."
I looked at each of the coords they described and they're all connected. I even tried reconnecting each cord. Nothing. Emailing them back right now, but I'm not sure if it's me that's missing something or if they're just telling me to do the wrong thing.No, they are correct. Your system isn't detecting the hd and that may be because of a loose connection (happens sometimes during shipping). Return it under Warranty
Quote

Remove any cd's or floppy discs and reboot

i've had my pc for a few years it is a dell dimension proffesional editon which came with roxio creator le dell edition & has worked fine until.... recently a BOX keeps popping up for the update manager disc which i never had... it is a royal pain to get rid of... any help would be much appreciated.Good afternoon deadhedjim and welcome to CH

What version of roxio creator le do you have?
Is this version a Dell version of roxio creator le or a OEM retail
This there an option to shut the updater off or maybe just let it update so it will be happy and it will stop bothering you, just a thought.

Hope to hear from you soon, Mike it's a dell version which came installed...Hello again deadhedjim

What is the version number of roxio the options are different from one to another. Is it version 3, 6 etc

Open roxio the should be a "about" or when it opens it may say the version number or maybe if you give me the model of your dell dimension you have maybe i can find it out.


Hope to hear from you soon, Mike hello Mike
pc is a dimension e 521, roxio version #2.0.4.Good afternoon deadhedjim and welcome back


I found this it should work for you.

ALL APPLICATIONS

There are no separate user settings to limit the frequency with which Update Manager checks for updates. Currently supported Roxio software allows users to opt out of Update manager Activation. To disable Update Manager do the FOLLOWING:
Launch the software
Go to Tools --> Options --> General.
Uncheck "Check for updates" under the "Start up" payne.
Click OK.
This can also be an error of the Update Manager unsuccessfully attempting to update itself. To update, remove this program using the Add/Remove Programs control panel. It will be called either "Roxio Update Manager" or "Sonic Update Manager". Then download the latest version here and install.

If you decide to permanently remove the Update Manager, it will not affect the PERFORMANCE of any Sonic or Roxio software currently installed on the system.

If Update Manager fails to uninstall, corruption has occurred that prevents removal. You will have to manually remove Update Manager:
Go to My Computer --> C:\\Program Files\Sonic. If there is a folder named Update Manager, right click on it and select delete.
Browse to C:\Documents and Settings\<--user name-->\Application Data\Sonic and delete the "Update Manager" folder.

NOTE: You may need to enable hidden files. Do this within Windows Explorer by going to Tools --> Folder Options --> View tab and select Show Hidden Files and Folders.
If your software was bundled with hardware, here are the solutions for the most frequented bundles. Sonic software is LICENSED and distributed by the manufacturers that it is bundled with. While Sonic provides support for the software, the manufacturer of the bundle is in charge of any updates and replacements.
Dell: Go to Dell's support site with your service tag number for any updates that your version of RecordNow may require.
Sony: You can get downloads for both MyDVD and RecordNow directly from these websites. Be sure that your software has been registered and is installed on your system:
MyDVD
RecordNow
HP/Compaq: HP and Compaq are in charge of any updates that may be required for RecordNow. Please contact them for any available updates.

Hope this helps, Mike thanks a bunch Mike, i'm GRATEFUL for all your help.Good afternoon deadhedjim and welcome back

You are very welcome I GLAD to hear that you are all set.

Mike

So I recently purchased on walmart a hp laptop here is a link to the computer:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/HP-Refurbished-Steel-Gray-17.3-Pavilion-dv7-6b57nr-Laptop-PC-with-AMD-A6-3400M-Processor-Blu-ray-Disc-Player-and-Windows-7-Home-Premium/20666939
It is a refurbished dv7 notebook.
The FIRST STRANGE thing I noticed when I got the computer is it makes odd beeping sounds whenever I move it. Plugged in or not plugged it it makes odd beeping sounds. I cant tell if certain movements make it BEEP or what. It happens when I lift it and set it down. Does not make the sound when not moving the laptop ever from what I can recall.

The big problem is over the past few days 4 times the computer has suddenly blackscreened. The power light and wifi light are on but the computer is unresponsive to any keyclicks, no sound etc. I have to manually shut down the computer with the power button. When I turn the computer back on its fine. I can not recall if the computer was plugged in but I do know the battery wasnt dead I always check often and plug it in before it hits 20%.

These are the only issues I am having.

Good evening alexsteproe and welcome to CH

For one I would buy an extended warranty. When the SCREEN is going black screened that is the LCD / LED panel more than likely I have had to replace a lot of those panels on that model but on the far side it could be the motherboard etc. That model only has a 90 day warranty also.

The beeping can come from many different things, you may be hitting one of the quick launch buttons and when you do they will beep. The battery could be not completely seated so it is braking contact. The memory may need to be reseated, The hard drive may need to be reseated. If I was you I would get in-touch with HP right a way and let them repair it on their dime

Please let us know if you have any more questions, Mike So it's not just gone into sleep MODE then?

I was trying to practice building a computer from spare/ and junk parts. It's been since 2006 since I've built a computer. I wanted to build a computer as a hobby.

I found a:

HL data storeage gcc-4482b CD/DVD drive
turbolink lc-a350 atx power suply
ribbon cables of different sizes.

I can go and get some floppy drives too if I want them. I'm not sure if the power supply works but I think the CD/DVD drive does.
I was going to build a low in computer and run Linux or something. So I went out to a thrift store to buy memory, HD, MOTHERBOARD, eltc.
they didn't want to sell their 512 ram. He said that the person who refurbishes their PCs was running out ( I'm sure that paints a picture of what kind of place I was in). They couldn't sell me HDs cause they weren't wiped yet, they couldn't find their CPUs, I didn't want to buy their power 500W supply.

Anyway I bough a 10$ motherboard that was wrapped in a plastic BAG that said acer, didn't get the bag with it and rode home with it in my bikes basket thinking it was some cheap MB from like 2008.

It turned out to be a tbgm01 -1.0-8EKS3H that comes from a Gateway FX 6800-01e. I didn't get the CPU and it says it takes a core i7.
That's TWO expensive can it TAKE like a core i3 or i4?
I wasn't planning on making a gaming computer can I use a cheap graphics card? What kind of power supply should I be LOOKING for.

lastly should I go back to the thrift store looking for the CPU before they figure out what they sold me? nevermind I manged to get some questions answered by people who mod computers.

Hi all, My Graphics card fan ( 560 ti ) Overheats when I play COD 4, Makes a funny sound. Anyway I DOWNLOADED speed fan and it showed that the GPU was overheating. So I downloaded MSI After burner and sped up the card fan. That worked, My question is whats the best non stock fan I could buy for this card for around 100.00 or less?. MY SPECS ARE LISTED Next to my avatar.Good morning Mruniverce and welcome to CH

It is impossible to tell you what fan would fit your VIDEO card it is made by every major video company and each company will have different shrouds, different heat sink etc. Who made it what is the whole model number.

Plus if the fan was making noise do you mean noise like a fan is failing? the stock fan should be good enough in most cases. The fan is humming, chattering etc.

Is the PC case fans & PS (power supply) & CPU fan clean and dust free?

Hope to hear from you soon, Mike Thanks for the reply, I cannot explain the sound the fan makes , But I did clean out dust with that air spray stuff. Its a new build, I CHECKED all my fans and they are all working. Including the card fan. Good morning Mruniverce and welcome back to CH

You are very welcome. But if the video card's GPU is overheating here is what you may want to check.

#1... Make sure that all the PC vents are not blocked and clean.
#2... Make sure cables are not obstructing air flow for video card
#3... If you have another PCI card adjacent to the video card if possible move that card over maybe it is CHOCKING airflow to the video card.
#4... Maybe the video card company has a Video BIOS update that may fix this issue I do know that some of those have a overheating issue and that is the fix.
#5... If the above is all OK i would be doing a RMA through the video card company other wise you can potentially ruin other parts in the PC.

Hope this helps, please let us know how you make out. Mike Thanks again, I will try to do what you mentioned. And by the way thank you for being so respectfull and kind , I have had some very arrogant administrators on here that really made me mad!! , almost stopped coming on. But your SEEM down to earth and a people person.When exactly did you feel slighted and by whom ? ?

We pride ourselves on nipping these things in the bud...

Dear Experts,

I use a Logitech K260 Wireless keyboard which has several useful hotkeys like play/pause, mute, decrease and increase VOLUME, homepage, mail, sleep button etc.

On my PC, the mail hotkey goes to Outlook, but unfortunately I don't use Outlook, I prefer GMail. So how can I make it access GMail instead of Outlook? Is there anyway of changing the default mail service from Outlook to GMail or something similar to that so that each time I want to write an email (which is very frequent) I can use the hotkey.Its probably hard coded into the keyboard to perform an ascii burst, but I will try to hunt around to SEE if there is a way to redirect it. Its too bad outlook wasnt out on the www, because if so a hosts file alteration would be a easy redirection. You need your keyboards ascii burst to be www.gmail.com from the current outlook.exe burst.

OR a "Redirection HACK" to make this work is that if you never PLAN on using outlook a special outlook.exe replacing the outlook.exe which performs a batched instruction such as

iexplore "www.gmail.com"

Create the batch file, compile it as an exe and replace outlook.exe with this compiled batch.
You can change key assignments in the Logitech Mouse & Keyboard Settings if you installed the Logitech driver.Quote from: Allan on August 24, 2012, 07:11:43 AM

You can change key assignments in the Logitech Mouse & Keyboard Settings if you installed the Logitech driver.

Open up the driver applet - you'll see how to do it.

11-27-2011 10:38 AM

Unfortunately the K260 is not supported by Setpoint, it is not possible to reconfigure the keys.

as I believe was already mentioned, you can configure Outlook to work with Gmail.

Ok, I have an array of questions as I am quite literally in the middle of my first build and a little confused.

My first question is;
From my HAF-X front panel there is a cable with 2 headers 1 HD Audio the other AC-97, I am finding it quite hard to locate where the heck this goes on my ASRock Extreme9 X79 Motherboard.

Second:
I have a Scythe Kaze Master Pro 5.25 and I'm a little confused with 2 things about this.
The first; The Heat sensors, do they stay in those tubes? I'd presume they don't but the 'manual' for the Kaze is quite well, confusing. It's like 5 pictures with 1 line of text that explains nothing.

Second; to Power the unit It has a 4 pin something-a-rather that goes into my power supply, Only issue is I can't find a cable that'll go from my PSU to the Kaze.

Third:
I'm intending on running 2 AMD Radeon (Sapphire) 7950 in Crossfire, The crossfire power input, do I put anything in that?

Fourth
I have a cable running from my HAF-X Front panel that would APPEAR to be a fan L.E.D on/off cable, If I'm using the Kaze can I just ignore this cable and tuck it away?


Parts:
Coolermaster HAF-X
ASRock Extreme9 X79
Intel socket 2011 3930k
Sapphire Radeon 7950 OC (x2)
G.Skill Ripjaws Z - F3 16GB DDR3 2133
Cosair AX-1200
Scythe Kaze Master Pro 5.25" fan controllerFirst question: the front panel audio header is on the back of the included sound/network card. You'll need to plug the HD Audio connector in, just tie up the AC'97 plug out of the way (or leave it dangling if you're not worried about it looking neat).
Second question: the temperature sensors are meant to be taped to whatever it is you want to take the temperature from. There should be some little bits of tape in the package. The power connector is a floppy power connector, the AX1200 will have some Molex to floppy converters in its cable bundle. It's not exactly neat, but floppy connectors aren't too common any more so it's understandable.
Third question: you shouldn't absolutely need to, that connector is more to provide additional power when running triple or quad cards. The 7950s aren't too power hungry anyway, so it's not a necessity.
Fourth question: Yes, you can.

Hope this helps, and welcome to the forums By "included sound/network card." do you mean the Game Blaster of the chipset? If it's the chipset, god *censored* xD I'm going to have to remove my GPU's and Radiator

On the third answer, It's not a necessity, but would it increase performance?

Sort of out of topic with the thread, but is there any RAM Coolers that support the ASRock X79 Extreme9, I purchased a G.Skill cooler but dang heatsync pipes of the motherboard won't allow it to fit

How accurate would the CPU heat reading be if I put a Head CENSOR on the backplate of the socket?


Thank you for your answers.
Quote from: BennyF on August 24, 2012, 01:47:47 PM

By "included sound/network card." do you mean the Game Blaster of the chipset? If it's the chipset, god *censored* xD I'm going to have to remove my GPU's and Radiator

On the third answer, It's not a necessity, but would it increase performance?

Sort of out of topic with the thread, but is there any RAM Coolers that support the ASRock X79 Extreme9, I purchased a G.Skill cooler but dang heatsync pipes of the motherboard won't allow it to fit

Thank you for your answers.

Also, I have the G.Skill Turbulence II, I don't think it'll be really required as there are more fans in the case then there are hairs on my chest but I just figured it'd be a good safety measure.

I Think I found the Molex to floppy, Not as long as I would have liked, and why does it have 3 of those 4 pin weird things from before my time? xD

Also, my front 230MM fan has 1 of those large 4 pin inline options, should I use it or just use the connectors which are actually from my generation?

What is a good way to check is the Antec Kuhlmer 620 is working? Don't want to let it go through a full bootup if the cooler isn't working.

(Sorry about so many questions, Just don't want to go and wreck a computer before I even use it)

Which are the "weird 4 pin connectors" though?

If you don't mind potentially losing stuff on the DRIVE, you can try this tool which will completely reformat and partition your flash drive.

http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/file.php?f=197Have actually already tried that tool. When I go to format the drive I get a "There is no MEDIA in the specificed device" error.Try doing a low-level format of the drive:
http://www.techspot.com/vb/topic63357.htmlHi friends,

Try to use this: Urescue v1.3.0.71
If you use win 7, please set compatibility MODE to Win XP SP2 and run as administrator.
I Hope it works for your drive.It's been over a YEAR....
But one never knows...he may just RETURN.

I have recently ordered a Konica Minolta F-2900 SCANNER, there is going to be no SCSI cable delivered with it, does ANYONE know what SCSI I should buy and if I can buy one with an adapter to USB? I obviously don't know much about this.


THANKS in advanceYou are going to need a SCSI controller card...normally plugs into a PCI slot...i'm not awate of one with a USB INTERFACE.

i recently bought a new graphics card for my computer, but after installing it into the computer when i turn it on the screen does not GET any signal any help would be greatly appreciated


i have a:
computer:dell inspiron 560
OS: windows 7 64 bit.
processor: pentium dual-core e5500 2.80GHz 2.9GHz
4 gig ram
the graphic card: MSI N460GTX-M2D768D5
power susply 500w
Good morning the_meta and welcome to CH

Am I safe to assume that the PS you had also replaced because these PC came stock with a 300 watt?

#1... Check and make sure the 2 (6pin) power connectors are plugged in to the new video card
#2... Make sure the video card is firmly locked into socket
#3... Make sure the motherboards 24 pin ATX power connector is locked into the motherboard
#4... Make sure the 4 pin power connector is plugged into the motherboard (USUALLY 2 yellow &AMP; 2 black wires)
#5... Make sure the monitor is plugged into the new video card and if a adapter is used is it firmly pushed in all the way

What company made the power supply some aftermarket PS (power supplies) are underrated and really do not put out true wattage as they are marked.

Hope this helps you. Please let us know how you make out. Mike
it turns out the the graphic card was faulty, got a new one and works like a charm, thanks for the help mike Good EVENING the_meta


You are very welcome I am glad that we have been able to help you. Mike

Is there a keyboard which is like the Mac keyboard ( thin buttons and all ) but for Windows. Please don't suggest to use the Mac keyboard on a Windows computer.

And I have looked, no good results D:Make your own haker keyboard? See this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymCR2E4MgLAI use my Mac keyboard for Windows. My FRIEND does too (which is strange considering he doesn't actually have an Apple computer).
Works perfectly fine.Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on October 12, 2010, 05:21:31 PM

I use my Mac keyboard for Windows. My friend does too (which is strange considering he doesn't actually have an Apple computer).
Works perfectly fine.

The command key acts as the Start Menu Button on a Windows keyboard.
Control and Alt are the same.

So it acts like the windows key?

Please don't suggest to use the Mac keyboard on a Windows computer.

...lol.
Well I didn't want to do that because the keys wouldn't be as they looked.

When run from the recovery console, chkdsk /r always has one particular line at the end - you did not show that line.I am thinking the MOTHERBOARD is the problem. Did you check your chipset heatsink and make sure it's firmly seated?Quote from: Linux711 on OCTOBER 12, 2010, 12:01:14 PM

I am thinking the motherboard is the problem. Did you check your chipset heatsink and make sure it's firmly seated?

I just had another idea. Instead of getting into confusion with chkdsk. Try unplugging the hard drive and boot using a bootable floppy or CD. Perform a hardware intensive process. Wait..... Does it shutdown?

Disable your onboard NIC and try an add-in card.

H1 GUYS so I've got this problem well when my screen seaver is working and after I move the MOUSE so I can continue using my PC I get this messege

This Computer has been locked only ADMINISTRATOR can unlock it well I unlock it but why am I GETTING th1s messege is that cause s0me one else is using my PC I am really worried about that so any sensible answer will be appriciated thx all Hi & welcome to the CH forums.

Have a look at your Screensaver in Control Panel>Display>Screen Saver - is "On resume password protect" checked?

hi guyz, i have problem about my asus laptop A3A , when i turn it on, i heared a wiered SOUND like beeping or clicking, my friend says its my hardisk, i just ignore it for the first time, but later on when i reformat my laptop, at the advance setting in the BIOS it didnt detect my HDD, i thought its not a problem i proced in installing FRESH copy of XP os but sadly at the start up screen it displays a mesage no hardisk found or something like that, press F3 to QUIT set up, does my HDD gone wrong?how can i fix this to let my BIos detect my HDD?

ASUS laptop A3A
Pentium R 1.6 mhz
HItachi 40GB hardisk

tnxYou need to replace the hard driveso it means theres nothing wrong with my board?only the hardisk fail?is it posible to fix this kind of HDD problem other than replacing new one?im not familiar with this kind of problem though especialy LAPTOPS,

tnx for the info btw

Does anyone know where I can get a bay for a hot swap scsi drive? I have a old server that has 2 SCSI drives. About once a year one of them goes bad and has to be replaced. The problem is to get to the drives takes about 3 hours of ripping STUFF apart to get at them. What I want to do is put in 2 bays that I can get at from the front of the machine. This way when a drive gives up the ghost I can just swap it out and SETUP the mirror again.

I looked at tiger and they seem to be into SATA bays.

Ideas?
http://www.scsisource.com/scsi_mobile_racks/

What are you doing to your computer that it loses a drive every year!?!?
Why don't you upgrade to SAS or SATA?
Thanks. I will check it out.

The machines run my call center. They get HEAVY use 24/7. The drives last about 1 1/2 YEARS and than they toast. OH well...

I can't ungrade to SATA because the only connection on the motherboard is a built in SCSI. This is a custom machine that uses little off the shelf parts.

What brand of hard drives are you using? We've had good luck with Seagate scsi drives running in all our servers. I just replaced one failed drive in our database server last month after 4-6 years of heavy use.
We also only use intel or promise pci raid controllers for our arrays.

Follow the installation instructions on the website REFERRED to and make sure all FILES and txtsetup.oem are TRANSFERRED unzipped in the floppy disk. I have followed all instructions for install of txtsetup. It shows that I have installed fastx2k.exe. After saying yes to install WinXP and agreeing to the eula I still GET the FOLLOWING message:

0 MB disk 0 at Id 0 on bus 0 on fasttx2k

(setup cannot access this disk.)

any help from this point?

When I START my PC it states' POWER saving mode' what can i do?Start by providing a more detailed explanation of EXACTLY what is going on.

I have a HP pavillion a1530N computer. How can I tell if it has a modem in it. Also, can a WIRELESS router be used with it. Thanks.1) Is there a jack in the back for a phone cord? If so, that's the modem. If not, no.
2) You'll NEED a wireless card / adapter for the system.I don't think he means a dial-up modem. It does have a 56k dial-up modem.
HP Pavillion a1530N Quote from: Computer_Commando on OCTOBER 14, 2010, 04:13:52 PM

I don't think he means a dial-up modem.

I know, never say never, but I've never seen a internal cable or DSL modem.

Ok,

While I'm not a complete newbie, I'm pretty close.

I'd like to rebuild a used computer just for the experience of saying 'I did it.'

However, the machine I'm using keeps freezing on startup.

The machine is a Asus Atv rev. 1.02 mobo with an AMD Athlon 1050 cpu. I have 384 MB installed memory. The main HD is a Maxtor 60 GB, and there is a 20 GB Western Digital HD connected to a RAID controller (using a Promise chip).

I have run Scandisk on both hard drives (no errors) and formatted them. Then I attempted to install Win 98 (from an old installation disk I had laying around). This hangs up during the install and goes no further. I then tried doing an install with a Win XP Home edition install disk I got at a thrift SHOP. This hangs up as well.

I don't think the chips are overheating (my laptop gets hotter than this), so I'm wondering if it might be that something else is FAILING, and if so, what? And then, how can I check?

Thanks!you may want to test the memory, this is ONE of the most common failures with new systems.I'm not sure, but I'm wondering whether removing that RAID controller and trying to install Win 98 with your hard drive connected to an IDE connector on the motherboard would work. Might be worth a try, as a troubleshooting step.

Edited for correction, 12:22 PM, EDT.Quote from: fpsmitch on April 30, 2008, 08:19:58 AM

you may want to test the memory, this is one of the most common failures with new systems.

I'm not sure, but I'm wondering whether removing that RAID controller and trying into Win 98 with your hard drive connected to an IDE connector on the motherboard would work. Might be worth a try, as a troubleshooting step.

The machine is a Asus Atv rev. 1.02 mobo with an AMD Athlon 1050 cpu. I have 384

So, it's an A7V, not an "Atv". What makes you think it has RAID built-in? The link you posted says nothing about RAID.

How did you run Scandisk?

Have you successfully installed Win 98 from that CD before now?

Is that Win XP Home edition disk a Genuine Microsoft disk?

You say the computer hangs up during the install and goes no further. Does it just stop? Any error message? How long did you wait before concluding that the system had hung?

Hey. I want to update my computer so I can play new games like Bioshock and Ut3 without any fps lag on HIGH settings. I'm not so good with computers so I decided to post here and hopefully someone will be kind enough to help me figure out what hardware I should update to make my computer faster with games.

I ran dxdiag and here are my specs

Processor: AMD Athlong(tm) 64 Processor 3000+, MMX, 3DNow, ~2.0ghz
Memory: 1024MB RAM
Graphics card: RADEON X700 Series
Is this a custom BUILD or one that was manufatured???it was customly built by my fatherdo you know what soclet that motherboard is so that we can recommend a new processor?
that is a relatively low end processor, you could also overclock(not highly recomended) if you have a good cooling system. but i dont believe you will get MUCH out of that chip.
that graphics card is also relatively low end, again we need to know what mother board you have so we can recommend another upgrade.i downloaded a program to find out what my motherboard was and it SAID the name of it is biostar nf325-a7what is your budget? high end gaming comps start at around $1000.

I fitted a Ram chip in my IBM DESKTOP machine and when i boot the machine, it SHOWED a blue screen. When I fitted the original Ram that was there, I still had a blue sreen. please how do I COME out of this situation.Help me.I am using windows 2000.What type of RAM did you install and what type does the machine take ? ?
Did you check this beforehand ? ?Is the RAM seated properly? Meaning its properly secured in its slot with both plastic clips locking the ends?is this a case of clearing the memory when changing over ram?? try this...take both out.....so nothings in...unplug ur pc from the wall socket...ie no power....now press the pc's power button (u should hear it try to boot but cant cus its not connected to any power) continue holding in for 30 secs odd to clear the memory.

at this point either...put the original memory back in plug the computer back in and turn it on...or put the new ram back in and turn it on...

if u still get a blue screen with the new ram then its not compatable...so repeat the process and put the original back in.


Quote from: Brett21 on October 11, 2010, 04:01:01 PM

is this a case of clearing the memory when changing over ram??...

The RAM I am using is,
16M*64 SDRAM.
128MB. DDR. 133MHZ. CL2 AND

128MB. DDR. PC2100. CL2.5. 2.5V V (16MX64).

I am using IBM desktop. model 831354. serial: KDFF3MV

Blue screen error code: ***STOP: 0x000000A5 (0x00000001,0x818ac5a8,0x00000000,0x00000000)
The Ram is properly seated.

Hi,

I have got this trouble with the printer CANON ImageClass MPC600F. I was trying to connect it to a PC. It should be such a easy job but seems to be unable to get the connection happening. It's KINDA old printer and i have even lost the CD installation. So i went to download the printer driver from the internet and found one.

I made sure to connect it to my PC directly via USB cable and then run the setup.exe from the driver file. It kept saying it did not see it while searching. I took a printscreen of it and attached it to this post.

I have ALSO tried to run the new found hardware wizard but to no avail.

My PC runs on XP Pro.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance

[recovering space - attachment deleted by admin]From my EXPERIENCE, I suggest trying to install the driver software before connecting the printer. See if that helps.Thank you Aegis for your reply.

I suppose the one i downloaded was the printer driver. Here is the link

http://multifunction.free-driver-download.com/Canon/33394/Canon-SmartBase-MPC400-MPC600F-Driver-MultiPASS-Suite-v4.0-Windows-9x-Me-NT4-2000-XP.html

How can i install the driver first before connecting to the printer when it STARTS searching for the printer? i'm not 100% sure i have downloaded the right one. Yes, you're right, i agreed with you with the fact that we should install the software first before the hardware.

I have searched for the driver but so far can only find that site as stated above that i think would help me.

Thank you in advanceYour download is correct one.
Quote

when it starts searching for the printer?

I have a Panacom LDR104U 4 Channel DVR Combo which is a security camera/surveylance system. It comes with a 160Gb HDD (pata) installed. Whilst it works well the hdd is not 'big' enough for my needs. I have a new 320 Gb pata/ide (Maxtor) hdd which I would like to install but am told the format is different for PC hard drives from DVR drives. Is this so? if so can it be converted? The unit also has a USB PORT for a pen drive backup, but I cannot get this side of things to work. I understand this is not strictly a 'Computer' problem, but if I can install the 320 Gb HDD I would not need to 'backup', if you know what I MEAN!. I think it works on the same principle as a TV TYPE DVR. Any help would be Greatly APPRECIATED. Many thanks in ADVANCE. Didn't see your unit listed...however the guide below may shed some light...

http://www.ati247.com/dvr%5Ftutorial/?gclid=CMb6rcaHhJMCFQKwPAodwTgJ4g

I don't know much about overclocking, but I have the exact same CPU and motherboard. Mine came already overclocked to 4.0ghz, so if there is any setting you want to know I will look at them. I got a 3 year warranty on this board and CPU so they must have run it to work spot on.Crafty, do you have the time to look up some BIOS info that might help cypher007 and me? The following stuff would be great:

MB Intelligent Tweaker (M.I.T.) /M.I.T. Current Status /: BLCK ;QPI Frequency; UnCore Frequency; Memory Frequency. Channel A (E,g, 7-7-7-20)
MB Intelligent Tweaker (M.I.T.) / Advanced Frequency Settings /: QPI Clock Ratio; Uncore Clock Ratio; BCLK Frequency (mhz); System Memory Multiplier (SPD)
MB Intelligent Tweaker (M.I.T.) / Advanced Frequency Settings / Advanced CPU Core Features /: Intel Turbo Boost Tech.; CPU Multi-threading
MB Intelligent Tweaker (M.I.T.) / Advanced Voltage Settings /: COULD you tell us what items and their settings ARE NOT [Auto]?
PC Health Status /: Vcore; Current CPU and MCH Temperatures

Don't sweat it if this looks like more work then you signed up for. Thanks for any help you can give.tried cmos battery, still no go, but ive found if i run easytune 6 and gently increase the fsb 1mhz at a time i can get all the way upto 188mhz. so it would appear that the bios is at fault somehow. is there a kind of safe mode the bios can get stuck on even if the cmos is cleared?Hi

There is an BIOS mode that automatically puts your PC into a safe place when you have over reached the settings too far. It can put your system back to the BIOS fail safe defaults for a time. I don't believe this response is manually configurable.

My PC has gotten pretty flaky I'm going to format c:\ later today and reinstall Win7. I'll let you know how things work out after the reinstall.

The trick with EasyTune 6 is very INTERESTING. Can't wait to try it.

skyeclipperHi

Well, the Windows 7 reinstall went so swimmingly I did it twice. I don't know what it is about a reinstall that makes it so rewarding.
Anyway, the 2nd time was a CHARM. The system seems stable after 24 hours. I'll continue to monitor things over the next couple of days.

The EasyTune6 OC tool won't run. It installs but won't launch. I tried re-downloading it from different web sites. I also tried several install/ uninstall cycles, but no joy. Has anyone else had a similar experience?

Thanks

It worked! Thanks you GUYS. Stupid HP, they sent a vga cable with an adapter on it, and the adapter didn't even have all the pins. It was missing maybe 9 pins in the middle of the set, the guy at Fry's said that was for RUNNING an analog signal. The full pin set is for digital, like what I am running from my computer to my monitor. I'm gonna call HP and tell them they should pay for my cable (42 bucks!) I feel my vision settling back in.......Excellent! Glad you got it resolved. HP should know better.Quote from: Aegis on April 30, 2008, 02:24:30 AM

Excellent! Glad you got it resolved. HP should know better.

hi everyone, im having PROBLEM about partioning my new hardisk, i dont know how to start with it, any links or info about or step by step PROCESS how to do it?You can use a third party UTILITY such as Easeus Partition MANAGER or, depending on your OS, you can use DISK Manager. Always make sure you have a reliable backup of critical data before performing any disc level functions.Are you referring to partitioning prior to or after installation of OS?

I have a HP computer it is only about 1 year old and I run Windows 7 Home Edition on it . The problem started about a month ago. I always leave my computer on and the screen. If the computer sits for an hour or so un-touched you can't open anything up. I have clicked on everything even trying to restart it from the start BUTTON does not work I have to physically cut the computer off and turn it back on. I should mention I downloaded the windows explorer 9... Please help this is getting very annoying.So it means you could still move the mouse and arrow around but nothing responds? Have you tried going to safemode?Yes I can move the mouse around click on things but absolutely nothing will open and like I said this just started about a month ago. Yes I have and still does same thing in safe mode. Thanks

Any other ideas? What type/model of HP computer do you have and is it still under warranty?
1. Check for any power saving mode sets and disable them such as your HD, sleep mode.
2. Download and install a software to monitor your hardware components temps. and post them. http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
3. Download and install a free antispyware and malware for any possible infections.
http://www.superantispyware.com/downloadfile.html?productid=SUPERANTISPYWAREFREE
http://www.malwarebytes.org/products/malwarebytes_free
Update before running a full scan.
4. Remove any INSTALLED softwares or programs that you think that have started this freezing problem.
5. You could also try swap testing your RAM modules on different slots by using one and check the difference.
6. Clean your PC from clogging, dust and dirt INTERNALLY and reseat all components and connections.Just for the heck of it, try a different mouse. Let's rule out the obvious first.

I need to find a NEW graphics card for a Dell Inspiron 8000 but i cant seem to find any from the Dell site,
and i havent seen any at all on any other site that i have gone to. EBAY has them but how do i know if it will fit? Any information on finding a new graphics card would be helpful.Laptops have onboard graphic chips not vid cards.
They are usually expensive to REPLACE and are normally SOLDERED to the MBoard.
Not a repair for the faint of heart...aaaw phooey,
well THANKS anyway

I have a very old Dell Inspiron 8000 laptop
i want to upgrade the ram to a gig but Ive seen from VARIOUS websites that it doesn't support any more than 512. Just to be sure, does this mean that the laptop wont work with it? because i have found a RAM card that has all the right specs as far as i know,

-512MB PC100 144 pin SDRAM

i was thinking of buying two of these to make it 1gig, but if it cant support more than 512, could i buy one of these and use that? because it would cost less than two 256 cards

thanks soooo ummm.....any HELP would be nice.....paleeeeaaase this is a forum, NOT a live chat room. expect at least 24HRS before a response.

with REGARDS to the RAM issue, simply LOOK up your laptop model at dells webpage and see if it can support 1gb.Here we are...You are corrent with your max 512MB hypothesis

Memory Upgrade for Dell Inspiron 8000 Laptops
Memory Specifications
Standard Memory64 MB (removable)
Maximum Memory512 MB
Memory Expansion2 sockets
Memory CommentsPC100 SDRAM SODIMMs.
CPU TypeIntel Mobile Pentium III
Model Comments100MHz FSB, Intel 815e AGPSet Chipset

Memory Upgrade for Dell Inspiron 8000, the Dell Inspiron 8000 takes the PC100 SDRAM SODIMMs. Memory Type, and comes installed with 64 MB (removable) of Memory. You can upgrade your Dell Inspiron 8000 to up to a maximum of 512 MB Memory, the system has 2 sockets to install Memory, already with 64 MB (removable) standard Memory installed. For best system performance use the maximum amount of allowed Memory per slot for your system.



So that means the most you can have is 256+256...but so far I have not seen anywhere that says it will take a 512 card...

Hello GUYS,I'm back. My issue now is that when I came to my computer today it seemed to be on with the green power light and the red light usually pops on when there is activity,but the system seems to be off with the green power light still on and screen is black. So I tried to reboot and all seemed fine at first then it went out again. Each time I restarted the computer it got worse to the point of it crashing right after th welcome screen. And if I wait for an hour it might go to the desktop for a minute before crashing again. I tried a system restore and still the same and I cannot get into safemode to run the anti spyware scan. Can you please give me some advice as to how to get around this issue,like when I waited an hour I tried to be fast and run the antispy but they said it was CORRUPT. I am currently on my iphone because my laptop is down too. My pc is win xp. Please help. Thanks!What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, ERROR, etc)?Thanks for replying. No new hardware but I did download a java update and then this happened. I was getting an error message jche or something like that. The reason I posted this in the virus thread is because I had similar issue before and when I ran my anti virus scan I still had the malware but the system would not crash.Then superdave helped me get rid of the malware so I thought this was the same issue. I have now waited a few hours before trying to reboot so I am going to try to run a registry scan malware bytes scan and a antispym scan.I hope it doesn't crash this time. But I will leave update. ThanksBoot to SAFE mode and uninstall ALL instances of Java...
Re-boot.I just tried safe mode and it crashed again : Then it's not Java thats causing the issues...
Provide more details and we;ll go from there...Ok I was finally able to get onto control Panel then removed the only thing java there that I know about and system still crashed. Super antispy did detect se malware but the system crashed before I was able to detete it. Now attempting to re run a quick scan and hopefully it will Complete this time. This crashing started just yesterday,but I was getting a jched warning for a few weeks now. Also,when I am able to get my system to the desktop before it crashes there is a new hardware icon that comes up and this is something I never seen before. Should I go ahead and install it? Kindly Reinstall Your Operating System.. Ignore the above POST

Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116754
Desktop: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129058
USB Mouse: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104178
USB keyboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823126043
6 gig RAM (3x2): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145222
WD 640 Black: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136544
GTX 470: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127501
i5 750: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115215
TX650 power supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005
ASUS P7P55D-E LX: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131634
CD drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106289
Wifi adapter: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166041

Alright, I'm getting a very weird computer error.
After about ten minutes my computer turns off. There is no error message or anything. Everything just turns off.
I monitered the heat one of those times, and the GTX 470S heat was 44c, i5 750 was 32c, motherboard was 33c and the hard drive was 27c. So, I figure not a heat related issue.
Ran a ram test. No errors. CHKDSK found no errors.
Checked system events. The only critical warnings are because the computer suddenly shut off.
The only unusual thing I've been able to find is that in the BIOS under the power tab for the voltages it has: CPU [1.096V]
3.3V [3.392V]
5V [5.832V] (this one is red, all the other ones are blue. I assume this because it's out of the +-10% range. Does that mean faulty power supply?}
12V [12.264V]
It has been working for a month before this.
What could it be?
Did you ADJUST the RAM voltage in the BIOS prior to this issue? Let us know what you change in the BIOS so we have a better idea. I don't suspect its hardware related since you mentioned you been using it for a month and it sounds like its brand new, but then again you never know. I believe you tweak a value causing the unexpected shutdown.I have not adjusted any voltages in the BIOS. I have not TOUCHED the bios since at least a week before it started randomly TURNING off.Quote from: thwhisler on October 16, 2010, 04:49:14 PM

...
Ran a ram test.
...

...
The only unusual thing I've been able to find is that in the BIOS under the power tab for the voltages it has: CPU [1.096V]
3.3V [3.392V]
5V [5.832V] (this one is red, all the other ones are blue. I assume this because it's out of the +-10% range.
...

I used memtest86.

Nor can I set the voltages to anything.

So one of my friends just moved away and he gave me his old comp which he built himself. I have never really built my own computer, or even upgraded one for that matter. I was hoping you nice people might be able to tell if A. the Computer I have is a good one, and B. what if any upgrades I should make to it. Here is what it has:

Motherboard - DFI LanParty pro875b
Sound card - Soundblaster SB0570
Graphics card - Radeon 9600se
Processor - Intel Pentium 4 2.80 ghz
200GB hard drive
2 256 mb stick of DDR ram


thanks for your help.Hmm, depends on what you want to do with it. If you just want to do productivity things (ex. surf the net, type, e-mail) then that isn't bad for that. If you're into gaming you'll probably find this system a little slow for newer games, but it will run most of them.

With regards to hardware for gaming:
Soundcard: The card you have is fine.

Graphics: The Radeon 9600se will still run most games, but it is getting a little outdated

Processor: Not bad, but not great. It meets the minimum requirements of most games, but there's not a lot of processing power behind that anymore.

Hard drive: Sufficient space for most people.

RAM: 512MB is just about sufficient to run most older games on XP, but anything newer isn't gonna run well.Ok, cool *censored*. So it looks like I need more ram, better graphics card, and a better processor. Thanks for the advice.if all he wanted to do was surf the net,type and e-mail he could use a 350Mhz computer. (now, I did say USE and not enjoy )

Also: I'm not sure myself, but I heard some bad things about the Radeon xxxxse cards... something about their GPU actually being from a previous generation...

isn't that SB0570 simply a "generic" type sound card? without any hardware acceleration?

I will GIVE that computer this: it is better then mine. BLAST YOU!



I SECOND quaxo's "kind of" recommendation for more memory. I'd aim for 1GB at least. (my thinkpad laptop has 8MB! yeah!)(not a typo, MB)That's an Audigy card with 7.1 surround based on what I looked up from that model number.

I had a Radeon 9600XT (not SE) for a long time and it was great. I don't know much about the SE models.the extra RAM you are wanting to buy will COST the about same as DDR2 RAM with significantly less performance, also your graphics card selection will be limited to AGP-style cards only. as for the processor, you are limited to the older socket 478 CPU's. because of the motherboard being the limiting factor, i suggest using it as is or getting a completely new computer. i do not recommend upgrading this one.oh umm.... yeah! thats what I was about to say.

lol I thought that was what was listed in device manager- the SB0570. Like my old Sound card, Creative Sound Blaster PCI blah

I shouldn't really say I heard bad things about the cards themselves, more with the way they were marketed. basically ATI (this may or may not be true) took the GPU from the previous generations SLAPPED it with the 9000 label, and SE to "differentiate it" as if keeping the 8000 moniker wouldn't serve that purpose.

Of course it's a good card.

Personally I'm not exactly money-concious with my computer upgrades, I had a AMD K6-2 350 Mhz for almost 6 years with XP pro and 512MB of ram and it ran quite good. I only have around 7 video cards that I bought for it, ended up not working, and I was too lazy to return (but I'm using one of them now! hoorah!).

Hi,

I use an Altec Lansing 2-speaker PLUS sub-woofer set up. For some reason, when I TURN the volume knob, there is a substantial lag until the volume increases (or decreases if I turn down). Also, I notice that I can set the volume to a proper sounding level, but if the content of what I'm listening to gets louder the volume will increase way more than it should, as if the software is reacting to the louder signal by increasing the volume level.

This is driving me nuts. I'm using Soundblaster Live!

Any help WOULD be greatly appreciated.

cheersDo you have the latest drivers for the sound card / did it always do this, if not when did it start?

ALAN <>< It always has DONE this. I have not updated the drivers for the sound card.

cheers

Hey everyone

I have some issues with my acer. It all started last night when it just shuted down of nowere. I tried to let it cool for hours and now when i tried to START it, nothing happens. The first second when i press the start button the FAN starts and the green light goes on. 1-2 seconds LATER the fan stops and the green light keep blinking and the screen is all BLACK..

I would love if there was anyone out that that are familiar with acer pc's and could help me.. would appricate all help/tips you guys got.

Thank u all ^^

( i'm sorry if there are any misspellings/typo's in the text )http://support.acer.com/us/en/product/default.aspx?tab=2&modelId=577

What can I do if my COMPUTER does not power on?i have tried to remove the Adapter + battery and i also did all they recommended step by step and nothing is happening

I'm new here and I do hope I'm putting this in the right place.
last week while using my husbands laptop I got a virus of some sorts and while attempting to repair the file I made matters worse. I ended up having to use the repair disk, which fixed the problem, but now my hisbands files are of course gone, and without a back up( i know stupid right?) anyway what I'm wanting to do is RETRIEVE those lost files, and I have found some free software to do it, but I'm not real sure it will do what i want.
of course i cant go out and buy what i need, because then i will have to tell him the stupid thing i did
so i GUESS my question is, is there a safe way to do this, or is this free software what i need
or will it simply make matters worse
please help- my kids cant grow up without a mom (kidding, i think)
http://www.dtidata.com/ntfs_partition_repair.htm
many many thanks in advance!With any partition recovery tool, you run the risk of making matters even worse. I think you may find that your best bet is to come clean, and than try to fix it. If the data is valuable, a professional data recovery service may be your best bet. Most data recovery tools are difficult to use, and if you accidentally recover files he meant to delete, that will give you away, too.
If you do try to save the files yourself, you can try http://www.pcinspector.de/default.htm?Language=1
It is freeware, and works fairly well.
Good Luckif by repair disk you mean the recovery CD bundled with a lot of laptops/desktops...

that is not good at all. The files weren't deleted, the ENTIRE drive was repartitioned by the recovery program.
I've always been against those things, they have extremely LIMITED use, I think OEM's should simply include a Windows CD and a CD of the drivers for the computers parts, rather then a CD that reverts the computer back to factory settings, which just so happens to include all the trial programs and crud they enjoy hassling people with.


As far as I know there aren't many programs that can recover data after a repartition/reformat, much less after data (XP itself) has been placed in them. The few that do exist are quite expensive I believe.


I have to agree with HMAR, you should come clean, maybe he'll know what to do.
Remember the longer you delay the less chance of getting any of his files back

Tip for the future! before using a Recovery CD, back-up ALL data that you want to keep! they WIPE EVERYTHING that exists on the HD- was there not a warning?...

My power pack failed,after the troubleshooting ,i cannot visibly see any blown or DEFECTIVE COMPONENTS,except the ic's which i cannot test.Pls i need a guide on how to fix this problem.Normally you GET a NEW one.

What is the MODEL number?

I had to recently reload the windows 7 OPERATING system onto the laptop as I had a couple of viruses. However, after reloading the os, the laptop somehow wouldnt connect wirelessly to the internet anymore.

The first thing I tried was shut down all computers connected to the router, turn off the router and the modem, wait for 15 seconds and then replug the modem and router. That didnt work. Then I went to the command prompt on the laptop and tried the
ipconfig /flushdns (this worked, that is no error message)
ipconfig /registerdns (said cannot register ip of a computer that has its media disconnected)
ipconfig /release (this worked , no error msg)
ipconfig /renew (This just hung, I had to do a cntrl c to get back the command prompt)

In other words this didnt work.

Then I tried the
netsh int ip reset reset.log
netsh int ip reset catalog

that didnt work

Then I went to the command prompt again and typed ipconfig /all , and the address reported for the IPv4 was 192.168.53.35, which probably means that the router is not assigning a good ip to my laptop. But what do I do to FIX this?

Could the wireless adaptor in the laptop have gotten loose or something? I doubt it cause the laptop can see all the wireless networks, but it still WORTH asking I guess.

What else can I do to fix the problem
I figured it out, the default driver that windows 7 loads did not connect to the wireless internet. I had to download the correct driver to a flash drive and TRANSFER it to the toshiba laptop, and then it connected properly after I installed it. \

Weird THOUGH, previously whenever I loaded windows, the default driver that was loaded always connected to the wireless internet.

Anyway, its solved

Can I use my G5 power mac DVI VIDEO card in a SONY v10 computer?I believe all MAC HARDWARE with the exception of HDD's and Optical drives are Mac only...Patio is right. Most Mac hardware won't work with IBM-compatible hardware, especially video cards or other hardware that RELY on specific drivers and firmware.