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Hi

I have a MSI X340 with Intel Core 2 Solo CPU U3500 1.40GHz and this CPU and CPU SPEED SEEM to be a problem to play some of the new games i bought which usually require 2.40 GhZ....
So I wanted to know how could I upgrade the processor to gain a decent speed, since I HEARD that some processor MIGHT not be compatible from one another, etc...I ALSO wanted to know if it is possible to switch from a solo to a duo and at what price...



Thanks a lot for your help!Your MBoard specs will tell you what CPU's it will take...

Hello people of the computing world!

If it is not too much bother, I would require a little assistance with my monitor. Here is the info:

My laptop SCREEN was broken, so I attached it to a small television (in- case you need to know it is High Def) So it is all well and good. I can use it like a screen, in FACT I am using it now. However, the problems start when I come to playing games. My favourite game is Battlefield 1942 (old I know ) I will start it up with no
problems, however when the map starts to load the TV screen will no longer recognise there is a computer there and turn blue, then switch off.
Unfortunately I don't have a clue as to what to do, so If you do have any ideas I would really appreciate them!

Regards,
Rhys
please provide important facts like :-

Make and model of laptop

Make and model of TV

How have you connected them together and what with.Ok, details:

Laptop is an old Compaq PRESARIO V5000. The TV is a Polariod TLU 19". They are linked up with a Belkin HDDB15 Cable, plugged into the VGA Slot.

Another interesting development: It seems to work with all my other games, including Battlefield Vietnam, which is the game DEVELOPED after Battlefield 1942. Is must be the game itself.

Regards,
RhysThe game you are trying to play may require a different screen resolution than your TV has available. truenorthOk, is there anyway to fix that? Or does it mean a trip to my local FRIENDLY monitor shop?
Does the games have any options to change the resolution?

Are their any 'recommended' settings / requirements on the games box?

Try changing the resolution on your PC to a 'lesser' one, then try it again!

All of a sudden my EPSON CX9400 is acting strange and I am unable to stop the fax phone from ringing. I do not know what to do. I did not do anything in the settings so it has been unchanged for 2 years. I also am having a problem with the Auto-Feed. It just stopped working. I called Epson but, because it is out of warranty, they were unable to help (unwilling?) and just wanted me to buy a new printer since I have shown loyalty to their product. I realize that to some of you these are minor problems but the ringing from the machine just has me turning off between usage. As to the auto-feed problem. that is MOST annoying-try standing/sitting in front of the printer, making sure you push the OK button then placing the next page of the 25 or so pages you need to fax!
PLEASE, any and all fixes welcome!
TIAI understand the feeling.
But not with Epsom.
Brother and Minolta.
What I do is put the Minolta t out in the driveway and HOPE somebody with either take it or run over it. Still there. When it goes, I will but the Brother out there. Prior to Geeks rather dramatic "SOLUTION" it will cost you nothing but time. Completely uninstall the printer hardware/software then reinstall as if new. Absolutely ensure precise adherence to the protocol of the printer manual for the re installation.Failure to follow it exactly is the most frequent cause of printer malfunction. To get you started here is your manual
http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/cx94f_/cx94f_qr.pdf
Reading through the manual briefly as it pertains to your fax ringing issue i note some procedures related that may pertain to that. I suggest you read through this BEFORE any uninstall. truenorthWell, I did the install process again and still no go-will not feed. It is 3 years old so maybe it is feeling its age like its owner
I just went ahead and purchased a Refurb Canon Wireless for $40. I had good luck with my other Canon, so crossing fingers this will be the same.
It's just funny how things happen though. I had purchased a Canon Laser Fax (B & W) last April. This did the opposite of my Epson problem in that it would feed then tell me I had a paper jam. I just unplugged the darn thing and listed it on Craig's List. I have all of the manuals etc. so maybe I will try again since it is still under warranty, Canon may help with that issue. Who knows, I may end up with 2 working printers

Alright to give a little backstory... my PC has given me nothing but trouble lately. I bought a new internal hard DRIVE and installed it. It was DOA and I never got it working, no big deal as I returned it. Since then my PC has been shutting off on its own after about 30-60 minutes. I figured out it was overheating so I ordered some paste to reseat it and get it going on normal temperatures again. I get it all set and now that everything is all squared away I went to hit the power button and it turns on, short beeps once, and then immediately shuts off... like this all happens within 1 second. I've taken everything out except motherboard, CPU/heatsink, one stick of RAM and my video card with the same results. I don't have any spare parts around so I don't want to go buy something to replace whatever the problem it just for it to not work again. Any help would be much appreciated!

I have a gigabyte ga-p35-ds3l motherboard if that helps.Try replacing the CMOS battery with a fresh new one and make sure everything is firmly seated upon removing or swapping.Sounds like the CPU isn't fully seated....double check it.Quote from: PATIO on February 16, 2011, 08:28:21 PM

Sounds like the CPU isn't fully seated....double check it.

I got the battery out. You think it's dead or should I try putting it back in

Time for a benchtest to determine if its the MBoard...
Remove the MBoard and PSU from the case...the board can sit on wood or cardboard...i use a rubber mat but not beccessary...

Hook up only the following:
PSU
Keyboard
Mouse
1 stik of RAM
Monitor...

See if it Posts properly and stays running...
If so add 1 component at a time powering down fully til you find the culprit.

But it's still in the case...
Have you tried a different/newer PSU yet ? ?

The weird thing is that when the 4 slot power supply to the motherboard is taken out, it starts up fine

I dont quite get you here...

Quote from: soybean on February 25, 2011, 09:37:30 AM

So, are the MUTE boxes un-checked now?

Hi, I just bought a universal power adapter, but I'm not sure if I should use it. It is Input-100-240V 47-63Hz 1.4A max
OUTPUT-19V 3.4A
My old power supply is Input: 100-240V 50/60Hz 1.2A
Output: 19V 4.74A


Thanks for any help you can give me,
Nancy



Old power adapter is 19V @ 4.74A
New power adapter is 19V @ 3.4A

New adapter doesn't provide enough output power, however, the computer may not require this much power. The power specifications for the laptop computer should be on the nameplate on the bottom.The only thing it says on the bottom is 19V 4.74A. Will it harm my PC if I use the new one?

ThanksIt won't harm it, but may not provide the capacity under all conditions.As CC has pointed out it will not "hurt" your laptop but it may not function to it's optimum (if it functions at all). That is because it could be that your amperage is too LOW ((3.4) It is my understanding that voltage MUST be the same but amperage can be higher and the device will only draw what it requires. For instance if you had a 19v 6amp power supply it WOULD only draw 4.7 amp. However lower amps will not increase to meet the needed amps. truenorthThanks for all the INFORMATION. I am using it now and so far no problems. I did notice, however, the battery does not hold a charge very long.The battery issue could simply MEAN that it is nearing the end of it's useful life. It is characteristic of failing batteries that the recharge cycle provides less and less battery recovery life. If you need to have a fully functioning battery i would plan on a new one soon. truenorthQuote from: tndrees on March 01, 2011, 06:30:31 PM

Thanks for all the information. I am using it now and so far no problems. I did notice, however, the battery does not hold a charge very long.

My cd drive disk tray is not ejecting. I had also tried the pin hole method i.e, inserting paper clip in the hole, but still no response. Cd rom is in good position.
Specifications:
OS: Windows XP
RAM: 640 MB
HD: 37 GB
CD drive: LG 52x max

need help as soon as possible.Quote from: IPDO on March 01, 2011, 08:51:25 PM

need help as soon as possible.

Now its ejecting but each time i have to insert that pin inside that pin hole can anyone give me a method that solves completely this problem.

Buy a new one.

Replace the drive.

Hi

I have an DIMENSION c521. I only had 1gb of RAM (2 512K). I bought some crucial memory (4 1gb each) and installed them into my computer. Everything was fine at first, but 4 DAYS later I started getting error messages telling me to remove any new hardware, and then my computer would crash.


Do you think it is the memory? And of so, why did it take 4 days?


BTW I am running WINDOWS vistaRemove the RAM and reinstall it to make sure it's seated in the slots properly. If it still does not run right, remove the new RAM and try your old RAM. Let us KNOW how it goes.

You should take precautions to avoid static electricity when working inside your computer.

Recently my laptop (INSPIRON 9300, using windows xp) overheated. When it did the screen turned blank. I restarted it but at the login screen it went black, it didn't even glow, this basically made normal mode useless on my computer because I can’t see anything. I restarted again in safe mode, it worked.

I restored my computer to a previous time, it still didn't work. When I asked for help in CHAT, some helpful people helped me, but they had to go before I was done.

My display adapter is 'NVIDIA GEFORCE Go 6800' In device Manager, it has no yellow (!) next to it. In properties I am given the option to 'Update Driver' or 'Roll Back Driver'. I tried 'Roll Back Driver' but I got this message

'No files have been backed up for this device.
If you’re having problems with this device, you should view the troubleshooter information. Would you like to launch the troubleshooter? [yes] [no] '

'Update Driver' only gives me links to shops to buy better drivers.

My laptop is old and a hand-me-down from my brother, so it's not worth spending money on it to me, because it works in safe mode. Also I have found that there are no other problems from the overheating.

I was wondering if there was anything else I could do to fix the graphics, besides spending money on it.

P.S. If there is no other way to fix it. I would want to know if there is a way to change safe mode so it isn't so 'zoomed in'If it works OK in safemode then you have installed the wrong drivers for the device...
Grab either the serial # or the model# from the card...
Travel to the manuf site enter the info and what OS you are running and DLoad and install the correct driver...

PS Drivers are Free...
PS #2 If it's onboard graphics the proper drivers will be at the MBoard manuf. site...not nVidia's...
I suspect this is how the issue started.Thank you for your help. I've had the laptop for a very long time and it didn't cause any problems before so I really don't think I have the wrong driver. Also, I'm very confident the problem started when my laptop overheated, because that's when the screen turned blank and it didn't work after. Unfortunately, I don't know what MBoard is or how to find the card, I got the name of the display adapter from 'device manager'.

I've partly solved the problem on my own though.
I've dissabled my display adapter in safe mode and now the display works in normal mode, except the pixel rate has dropped tremendously and gaming on it is nearly impossible.
I've tested it and enabling my display adapter does make the screen go black.

Though another problem has come up, that I didn't recognize before.
For some reason, I can't put my laptop on standby.
When I shut the lid, the programs keeps going.
When I go to the 'shutdown options' (where NORMALLY I'm given the option to standby, shutdown or restart) the standby button is greyed out and unclickable.

This is a huge problem to me because I fear it will overheat again.
Any tips on preventing overheating would be nice.

P.S. I think I named the thread wrong, it should be 'Broken Display Adapter'. My bad.If your really like that computer, you may find a good used twin for under $200 on eBay. That may seem a high price to pay. True. But there is no sure way you can fix it for less if your time has any reasonable value. Like I said before it is really old. (Brother's hand-me down)
If I'm going to spend alot of money I'd rather save up for a NEW laptop instead.
I also have a very LOW budget of 5$ a week from allowance, so even 100$ is alot for me.

Right now I really don't want to spend money on it. I don't even have an ebay account (too young).

If there is no other way to fix my laptop without spending money, I'll just not fix it. It is functional and in time I could overlook it's flaws.

I'd appreciate any tips for preventing laptops from overheating though. Also if there is someway to enable standby again.
Right now it's fan blows out on the bottom so I used a towel to prop it up, so air circulates better.Addressing ONLY your desire to deal with "overheating" even your limited financial resources (2 weeks allowance ought to do it) there are laptop cooler units available. Here is an example http://www.amazon.ca/Performance-Silver-Aluminim-Cooling-Notebook/dp/B001P2ME9W/ref=tag_tdp_sv_edpp_t But by searching on the INTERNET or checking large stores you can certainly find them cheaper than the one i have linked. However seriously i would want to do as patio suggested 1st (even though you have doubt's as to it's ability to change things). It only takes a bit of time to do and it will be free. By the way NEVER use a laptop on a soft surface such as a towel or bed--quickest way to ensure an overheating consequence. truenorthQuote from: Luca257 on February 27, 2011, 12:17:48 PM

...laptop (INSPIRON 9300, using windows xp)...My display adapter is 'NVIDIA GeForce Go 6800' ...

hi i recently left a dvd on pause for a while on my laptop and after a while it made a lound alarm sound then shut down,(guessing it overheated) i noticed the fan wasnt working so i replaced it with another fan, now that fan works but it still makes the sound and shuts down i have done chkdsk and i have no corrupted files any ideas pls any 1, thanks in advanceSince it's a Laptop, try removing the battery pack and direct connect AC Adapter plug and check the difference. It might be a Battery Alarm set or you could try adjusting Power Options if certain features are available here
--> http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc958137.aspxhi thanks for the reply, i tried removing battery but was still the same and the laptop wont stay on long enough for me to get into the settings, but i do remember choosing (never turn off ) in all boxes before so i am really at loss now as to what 2 do any further help would be GREAT, if not thanks so much for trying 2 help The thing that will cause a sound alarm would be the battery alarm(Low battery and Critical battery alarm) slider MAYBE up to max. instead of being atleast 5% and setting on alarm action is shutdown. How long after BOOTING does the alarm sounds?i START it up and it loads my desktop the fan kicks in as normal then it makes that loud noise and just shuts offIt's overheating...
With many laptops unfortunately the best way to properly clean them out is to let the shop handle it...

They have many tiny ILL designed screws holding it all together....

Hi,
I have been fixing (breaking) an old computer belonging to my parents.
It is a Shuttle barebones built system, running an Athlon XP 2800+. For some reason the PROCESSOR was running at half speed (according to Windows - about 1.25 ghz if I remember CORRECTLY) I am unsure of how long it had been like this for; I am sure that it wasn't like this when it was first set up with current OS. So I went into BIOS, saw that FSB was set to 100mhz. After a quick bit of research I learned that this is not an uncommon PROBLEM, and that with the xp2800 FSB should be set to 166mhz. OK...
I changed this an booted the system. It booted successfully, but after a couple of minutes using windows it shut down; next try was similar. After that it just wouldn't BOOT anymore. It hangs on the white loading bar before the Windows splash, when booted in safe mode it also hangs on one particular file.
I will have more details - such as the name of the file, and the motherboard number - when I next have the computer in front of me.
Until then does anyone have any ideas what I may be up against here. I have been using Shuttles for a while. The model number would be good to know. SK43G? SN43G?

Have you accessed the BIOS SETTINGS again and tried a different FSB speed setting? If it's an SK43G try running the FSB at 133.
Thanks for the speedy reply guys. I am glad there are some other shuttle users on this board. I believe it is SN41G (two small round buttons) but I will wait to see it again before I confirm that.
One important thing I forgot to say is that after it stopped booting I put the fsb back to 100 but it made no difference.

To begin, I just completed my new rig, everything is pieced together, hooked up, and what have you. The specs of this new rig can be found here, in the first post of the thread.

I was told that 600W would be enough power for that setup, so if anyone here can tell me otherwise that would be great, but on to the real ISSUES I am having.

Once everything was set up I powered on the computer, but my monitor received no signal and it would power down seemingly inexplicably. The first thing this tells me is that I really am not getting enough power to all of my components. To check I unplugged the HDD and Disk Drive since I don't need those to boot, however I was met with the same problem minus the shut downs, which HAPPEN very, very unpredictably as it is, even prior to the disconnecting of the HDD and Disk Drives.

My next move was to move the Graphics Card to see if that could be causing problems in the slot, but nothing came of it. I reset the motherboard, but to no avail (while the HDD and disk drives were unplugged), and, after being advised by a friend, removed and replaced the battery of the motherboard, but once I did this things got worse. Now the whole rig starts and stops, fans, CPU, and graphics card running, only to all turn off, and then turn on again, and off again, and on and on. As a note, once I unplugged the HDD and disk drive all things I mentioned trying after that were done without them powered on or connected to the motherboard.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what might be the problem? Any suggestions as to how I could fix said problem, or is this all just stemming from not enough power and if I buy a new one then I'm golden?

Thanks.It's entirely likely I'm wronger than wrong, but...

To me, this doesn't sound like a lack of juice... I want to say your mobo is faulty in some way. When my PSU's started giving out, my wireless card becomes impotent. I had a friend who had a lack of power present as a (semi) random BSoD, but unless you're running a couple of power-hungry GPU's (your spec link seems to direct to here.org?), 600W should be sufficient for at least a boot, in my mind. As such, I would finger the mobo / CPU (I would exclude the CPU due to DIFFERING behavior after the battery reset).http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=669997

I don't have time to figure out how to EDIT my post, so that is a working link to the specs. And I'll give those things a shot. Thanks.

As it turns out, after running tests on Newegg, I have found that I should have enough power with a 600W so it seems like it is indeed my mobo. I'll get on it asap.

Any other feedback or ideas on what the problem may be would be greatly appreciated.

I am looking for an internal USB card with 2-4 male connectors (the more the better) that plugs into a PSI slot. Does anyone know where I might purchase one? Why male connectors?What is a "PSI" slot?
Presuming what you mean is an internal PCI card that will provide additional USB ports (above and beyond what the computer has already) and the "male connectors" you are referring to are the CONNECTIONS on the external DEVICES that you intend to plug into your card. They are as common as grass and come in a multitude of options of external ports. I actually am USING one that has 4 external and 1 internal (inside the case) USB ports. Here is a link just to get you STARTED. http://www.nextag.com/PCI-USB-cards/stores-html
A search on Google will provide many more sources should you need them. truenorthWell, true north has come closest to answering my question. Only I'm not interested in external ports. I have already checked Newegg, and didn't find what I wanted.

Quote from: spock on February 27, 2011, 08:55:34 PM

Well, true north has come closest to answering my question. Only I'm not interested in external ports. I have already checked Newegg, and didn't find what I wanted.

I am looking for an internal USB card with 2-4 male connectors (the more the better) that plugs into a PSI slot. Does anyone know where I might purchase one?

Hi there guys!

Im here basically because i need to do some upgrades to my desktop computer and need some guidance since hardware wasn't always my strong point and EVERYTHING just gets updated daily nowadays!!

Right, my rig is as follows :

Motherboard - ASUS P5N-E SLI
CPU : Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 @ 2.4 GHz
RAM : 2( Yes still 2!!)GB Corsair XMS2 CM2X1024-6400C4 DDR2-800 (400 MHz)
Graphics Card : GeForce 8800 GTS
HDD : a 320GB SATA connected to what i believe it is a SATA 2 cable + an IDE 320 GB and another 2.5 SATA i just saved from a laptop.
windows 7 Professional


I dont think the rest are relevant so ill leave it as is and if you need any more info ill just reply with it!!!

What i need is a well balanced and capable rig. I am not the most hardcore gamer ever but i do LIKE playing a lot of the newest and most demanding games for example i would like to see how CRYSIS 2 would run or maybe that Russian FPS and some new car games e.t.c.

I also multitask a lot. I might have 30-40 tabs open, working in Microsoft Visual studio, watching 720p video streaming or downloaded and some other stuff at once which at this point is a PAIN in the *** since i only got 2 ram and Virtual just doesnt work as fast...

I dont want the most expensive and most future proof stuff but not the cheapest either.

I know i need new RAM which i had a look around but theres soo many that im not sure where to go so:

- What RAM would be best for my system and my requirements?

- Do i need a new Mobo or the one ive got is still good to go with new processors and Graphics Cards?

- Ive noticed that my graphics card is really capable still today but not at everything. For example Crysis 1 with full settings would run at about 10 15 frames??? Do i need a new one and which one would be best for value for money?

- Could i perhaps SLI 2 cards together? Maybe buy a new 8800 GTS? or another card? Is that possible?

- New CPU perhaps? I hear the new "i" processors are pretty good. Should i upgrade my processor as well?

- Im looking to spend around 300-400 Euros approx maybe less if possible.

Basically the only thing im really wondering about is if i need a new mobo. Im also going to get a new case so if it really needs everything to be upgraded i might as well sell it and get a new rig.

Thank you in advance for any help!

Sander.


Your current "rig" would probably be quite adequate for most users however given your desires in the "gaming arena i think i would tend toward this scenario "i might as well sell it and get a new rig." You are prepared to spend an amount " Im looking to spend around 300-400 Euros" which here in N.A. would get you a more robust computer capable of your needs. Sometimes it is like an automobile power increase by for instance changing or boosting the engine H.P then if you don't also change the drive-train you will have a problem. As an example in a computer if your increase the CPU demands you will have to also improve the PSU (and perhaps other components as well). If you want the pleasure (maybe) of doing an enhancement to your current computer then go for it. But if the objective is (with minimum hassle) to get to the point of a computer that will immediately meet your "needs" then i believe a computer replacement would be your best bet. Others may not agree. truenorthThanks for the reply.
Actually thats true. I would need extra cooling probably a new PSU and some other stuff....
I agree that the easiest solution is to go for a new system all together but i would then have to sell this one. And honestly im not sure im gonna get as much as i want for it. I could as well sell some of the stuff individually and turn it into a server or something like that...
Anyway what i need for the moment is some memory so i will try to upgrade that and see how far it gets me until i can afford a new one.

Any help on that?
Im thinking OCZ Platinum 1600 or Kingston HyperX at 2000MHz ?
I could also add 2 more 2GB modules but would it have to be of the same ones i already got on?
Thanks!!If your temporary objective is to increase the performance (more speed usually) of your current computer then it is generally accepted that dollar for dollar money spent on RAM is going to give you the most bang for the buck (or Euro in your case . What i would suggest that you do is run a free scan with the "Crucial" RAM scan software 1st. It will define what you have and tell you the MAX that your computer is capable of handling. Be careful though as often it will say recommend an upgrade to 4 GB but then your computer specs will only recognize 3 GB. So do a bit of research 1st. Also ALWAYS match the RAM (not only what you add but also with what is already in the machine). Just back to my original suggestion and your legitimate concerns re money to expend. You could pay up to $100.00 for a RAM upgrade and you will NOT recover that when and if you decide to sell it. truenorth I neither a memory expert nor a video card expert; my comments here are just my opinion.

See http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=P5N-E%20SLI for memory options from Crucial.com. They guarantee compatibility. However, OCZ and Kingston are probably fine choices. I believe Kingston has a memory selector tool on their website to help you choose the right memory; I'm not familiar with OCZ.

Your motherboard is SLI-capable, right? So, I'm guessing that a second video card, one with the same graphics chip as your current card, could be combined with your current card. Quote from: truenorth on February 27, 2011, 11:02:38 AM

" Im looking to spend around 300-400 Euros" which here in N.A. would get you a more robust computer capable of your needs.

- What RAM would be best for my system and my requirements?

- Do i need a new Mobo or the one ive got is still good to go with new processors and Graphics Cards?

- Ive noticed that my graphics card is really capable still today but not at everything. For example Crysis 1 with full settings would run at about 10 15 frames??? Do i need a new one and which one would be best for value for money?

- Could i perhaps SLI 2 cards together? Maybe buy a new 8800 GTS? or another card? Is that possible?

- New CPU perhaps? I hear the new "i" processors are pretty good. Should i upgrade my processor as well?

Basically the only thing im really wondering about is if i need a new mobo.

I am using a Dell Dimension 9150 running XP. My current setup is USB KEYBOARD, mouse, mic, and Nostromo game controller...and occasionally I will plug in my external HD and/or usb midi keyboard. As of a couple of months ago, my game controller will randomly quit working. The usual fix is just unplug and plug back in. However, randomly when I do this it will turn off my mic. When I plug/unplug the mic, it will turn off my game controller again. I have to unplug/plug back in until they both work at the same time or just reboot the machine. The strange part of this is, my controller will stop working 95% of the time when I get up to take a quick break. Every now and then it will stop working during game play, but usually when I get up to get something to drink or use the restroom. I have tried every combination of usb ports possible, the keyboard and mouse never stop working. The mic stays on most of the time, but as stated earlier, sometimes will turn off randomly as well.

I have brought this issue up elsewhere and was suggested to download/install the updated chipset for my motherboard. I did so and still have the same problem. Before I invest in a new game controller (mine is OLD, btw), I would like to know if this is the potential problem or it is something more computer related. I would hate to purchase a new controller to find out I have to keep unplugging it and plugging it back in just like I do now. Not to mention the mic randomly turning off/on from a seperate usb port (the mic is BRAND new).

Thanks for your time....Dose 1, Welcome to the CH forums. I am going to assume that "all" the USB devices that you have mentioned are plugged into USB ports on the computer. As opposed to being plugged in via an expansion USB hub. If that is the case if some of them get plugged into the front and the back at the same time you may not have sufficient power to satisfy them all at the same time. You could try a "powered" USB plug which you would then plug into a rear port and run any devices that may previously have been plugged into a front port into the powered hub. These devices are very common and quite inexpensive. Were i in your shoes i would try that 1st. truenorth Thanks for the welcome! Also, thanks for the response. I will give this a try. I believe I've either had the mic or controller plugged in the front. That being said, if I were to try to plug both in the back along with my keyboard and mouse (that don't have problems), would there still be a lack of power to power all 4 devices? If so, would the power usb port solve this issue?

OH, and no, I don't use an expansion usb hub, all devices go straight in the computer itself. Thanks again!!
Sorry, one more question...what is the difference between an expansion usb hub and a powered usb port? Just so I know to look for the right device to purchase.The difference is that the non powered simply expands the availability of USB ports to whatever the number of additional ports it has (you can expand up to a max of 128 total ports). Whereas the "powered" does the same but also has the ability to draw electric power from an A/C household electric power source thus it creates power to the USB ports on the hub--instead of the plugged in device(s) having to draw all it's power from the computer. truenorthOk, I understand. The only thing I don't quite understand is why this just started happening a few months ago. With the exception of me moving around the same time, I haven't had this problem prior to that. Is it possible there is a lack of power getting to the pc at my new residence and would the powered usb hub fix that?Front ports on many pre-fab PC's are notoriously under-powered....use the back ports for connecting a hub if possible...I'm going to try using the mic and game controller both plugged in the back tonight and see if the problem persists. If so, I will get a powered usb hub and hope for the best. A thought crossed my mind. When I first moved into this house a few months back, the same problem was happening with my mouse, just quitting randomly until I unplugged and plugged back in. I bought a new mouse and everything has been fine with it. Now it is the game controller. Maybe it is just mere fate that both are going bad one after the other. However this doesn't explain the mic failing randomly, and it is brand new as well.johncina36, Are your comments in reference to your commercial web link on your post or are they in reference to the subject and dialogue of this thread? truenorthIt's SPAM...
Moved to the trash bin...Update: I plugged both the controller and mic into the back of the computer, and still having problems with the controller. I understand the need for the powered usb hub, however, if that is the problem....why doesn't my keyboard and mouse quit working? Whatever is happening is AFFECTING my controller 95% of the time, with the occasional/random mic malfunction. The controller malfunction is starting to seem more frequent as well....then again, I could play later with no hang-ups. Any thoughts? Powered usb hub or new controller? Thanks again!Well the introduction of a powered usb hub will handy for the use of your usb devices and may improve their performance. However to deal expressly with your "game controller " hardware . My guess being it has been used quite a lot over time; if you have access to another computer you might want to try it for a period of time to monitor how it behaves on another machine. truenorth

Greetings everyone. I'm looking to buy a new primary hard drive for my comp, a Gateway DX4200-09. I wanted to know if this hard drive:

http://www.cdw.com/shop/products/default.aspx?edc=1492933

is COMPATIBLE with a computer with these specs:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883113088

Also, while I'm here, I'd like to let you know that after a year of owning this comp, the embedded sound card went out. I had to buy a pci sound card. Then after 2 years, the hard drive GOES out. My comp was BSODing after being on for 4-5 hours. After I would power it down and restart it, the first thing I'd see was an American Megatrends logo along with some prompts at the bottom, F2 or F10. After pressing F2, it'd bring me to the BIOS menu where I'd have to select discard changes and continue to load windows. Immediately after windows would load I'd see warning about a faulty or damaged hard drive and that I should back up everything, then repair or replace the hard drive. Since this happened way after the measly ONE year warranty, I tried reformatting. As you know by me being here, that didn't work.

I'd like to not have to go through this again. If anyone could please let me know if this hard drive is good, or recommend a more reliable one (especially a more reliable one than the faulty hard drive currently in my comp) I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you.

Why oh why do I have such terrible luck with computers? It is not Luck. It is happenstance.
Statistically, it is unlikely that the sound card and the Hard drive would both fail after two years of use. So we* would suspect that the motherboard has a defective component.

In a normal environment, any component failure on a motherboard indicates a defect in manufacturing. However, the manufacture will assume there was user abuse, so they limit the warranty period. Unless both failures are related to something you did, the motherboard is a lemon.

The hardware error messages of Windows are as accurate as they ought to be. Some additional testing is needed to CONFIRM the hardware error. General practice is to try the suspect item, the hard drive in this case, in a computer that is know to be reliable.

FYI, hard drives should have a warranty of fie years for normal usage. Did you try to contact either Gateway or the OEM of the drive? Have you verified that the hard drive really is defective?

What I am trying to say is that you may have a bad motherboard. A new drive will not fix the problem. But the drive you selected is a good choice. Nice to have a spare drive. You will pay more than that just to have a Technician look at it.

If the new drive solves the problem, please come back and tell me I was wrong. I will be glad to know.


* 'We' here means others have already made this observation before me. In your case 'we' suspect component is the south-bridge, or one of its dependent components. As for me, I am a retired silicon-Valley Super Senior Technician and most of what I learned was from other people.Now that I have internet service again. How do I go about testing whether or not it is the motherboard causing these problems?Quote from: comp-illiterate on FEBRUARY 25, 2011, 10:06:50 PM

Now that I have internet service again. How do I go about testing whether or not it is the motherboard causing these problems?

So now I guess I need to test the Marvell Yukon 88E8071 PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet Controller to see if it's defective as well, right?

I'm not using my Printer PORT or the Serial port on the back of my PC. By disabling them in CMOS, since they are not in use, does it HELP with system performance, any?I have never heard of any boost by doing that.....

It will probably save power slightly but It won't affect your performancethe only thing it will do is free up IRQ 7(printer) and IRQ 4 and 3 (Com 1 and Com 2 respectively).

But computer now have virtually limitless IRQs to assign their devices to by going through the IRQ 2 pass-through to the second IRQ controller, so freeing up IRQs does nothing really.


it will not boost performance at all.The Tea Kettle will come to a boil a bit quicker...other than that you won't notice a speed increase.Quote from: BC_Programmer on March 24, 2009, 02:35:58 PM

the only thing it will do is free up IRQ 7(printer) and IRQ 4 and 3 (Com 1 and Com 2 respectively).

But computer now have virtually limitless IRQs to assign their devices to by going through the IRQ 2 pass-through to the second IRQ controller, so freeing up IRQs does nothing really.


it will not boost performance at all.

It will probably save power slightly but It won't affect your performance

I'll remember this for when I own a laptop, someday...

no laptops made after 1999, have a Parallel or Serial Port??

Hello

I am planing to buy a ADSL broadband modem.

I would like to know how to WRITE into it my username,password and PHONE number
given to me by the TELEPHONE company?

Thank you

Prasad

Normally when you order DSL service they provide the modem...
You run a setup program once...enter your info and it is stored in the modem.Where can I get the setup program?

Thank you

PrasadYes .They provided me with a DSL modem.
It is working fine.
But it is getting spoiled frequently by thunder - lightening's.
I would like to buy (won) a modem.

Thank you

PrasadI would call your DSL tech support and have them replace it....

If you won a new modem than it should have a setup CD with it

If you want to try to hack your modem the setup disk will not do it for you. Also the DSL and cable companies cap them and if they find you have messed with them they ban you...for life.

Thank you Spoiler for the reply

I got the CD.I don't know there is a setup program in it.

I wanted to buy my own modem to avoid unseemly arguments with the
Telephone company to get my damaged modem replaced (frequently)

So do you suggest I shouldnot own my own modem(DSL).
Is it illegal to own and use a DSL modem?

Thank you

Prasad


Your modem COULD be replaced by your ISP...

During a thunderstorm...I'd recommend unplugging the modem from any power source. This way, you wouldn't have to worry about replacing your modem.Call your DSL company and have them replace your modem.

It is not illegal to have your own but if they own this one why not have them fix it? Also you can watch how its done and learn how to handle your own modem....

Thank you Spoiler and Glitchpc
Telephone company also says I should unplug modem
during thunderstorms. But clouds gather at night and by morning
the modem is nonfunctional.

This DSL modem is property of Telephone company given to me on
monthly rental.It takes nearly 2 weeks to get a damaged modem replaced,
i.e after a lot of arguments and haggling .

The setup program in CD is not asking me to enter my DETAILS
(phone numb,name and password)
It is configuring automatically by contacting the Telephone exchange,it seems.

Thank you for your suggestions.
I learned a lot about this instrument.
Thank you.
Prasad

hi, i have a question i have a ATI sapphire HD3870 graphics card.
If i get 1 more i can crossfire and what crossfire does??
give me more FPS ON GAMES
example i play a game with everyhing on hight but somethimes its slow.
If i crossfire i wiill get more FPS?? and the game will be mutch faster like doble FPS??

my processor is AMD PHENOM II X4 940 3.0GHz

What crossfire does??http://ati.amd.com/technology/crossfire/faq.html


thats an faq of crossfire technology. all your answers are there (hopefully :-p)

andyCrossfire basically links the two cards together. Be aware that getting a second card will NOT make it twice as fast. The scaling from 1 to 2 cards is not 100%, it is around 60% with two cards(according to this : http://www.legitreviews.com/article/605/1/).

Some motherboards do not support crossfire, so before making the purchase confirm that your motherboard is expandable. If you are unsure post the make/model/name of your motherboard and I'd be happy to tell you. You may also want to confirm that your PSU has enough power to be stable with ANOTHER card.

The performance difference will also depend on the resolution you are playing at. If you are gaming at a resolution such as 1024x768 your framerate is likely to be more effected by your CPU rather than your GPU(s). At higher resolutions you would probably be SEEING a bigger increase when adding a second card though.


EDIT: I completely forgot to tell you that not all games will recognize crossfire and will continue only using one GPU even if you have a second in crossfire.ok but if i get crossfire i will not getting mutch power on games like in performarce, and game speed.
No. Graphics running in Crossfire will be an increase in performance. But not twice, only about 50% to 70% increase. EVERYTHING told so far is CORRECT. I just want to add that you need to make shure your power supply can handel 2 gpus also and your motherboard too.but just increase on crossfire games on in all games??I don't completely understand your question.

Crossfire will increase performance in most games; i.e. ones that support crossfire. NOT ALL games support crossfire however, but most that don't support it are older games and won't require it. With games that do support crossfire you will see a pretty noticable leap in framerates, as stated above, between a 50 and 70% increase.

If you intend to upgrade to crossfire also be aware that if you buy two different makes of the same card, some clock speeds may vary slightly and crossfire will slow the faster one down to match the speed of the slower one (if that made sense). If you are upgrading verify that your PSU and motherboard are ready for the switch. Often times upgrading to a single card solution will be cheaper than running crossfire if you have to upgrade your motherboard and PSU, just be aware there may be ways to get better bang for your buck.

i am thinking of getting a NEW computer this summer. I am planning to get the following PARTS:

Intel core i7 920
EVGA X58 motherboard
corsair dominator 6GB DD3 RAM
Corsair 1000W PSU

I already have a BFG 9800GTX+ that i want to SALVAGE but i want more power. So is it better to get 2 more 9800GTX+ cards and run it in tri sli; or get a GTX 295? (I am aware that getting the GTX 295 will leave room for future EXPANSIONS, but i also want to KNOW if it will outperform 3 9800GTX+ cards)

Electric Seagull Deluge?mabye.. or the Engineering Society of DetroitElves s**** DONKEYS?::: wonders just how juvenile this thread will BECOME :::Quote from: Aegis on March 24, 2009, 02:17:41 PM

::: wonders just how juvenile this thread will become :::

i upgraded my bios and now computer wont show VIDEO from onboard graphics or video card

system specs
L7VMM2 motherboard
amd athlon xp 2400+
windows xp pro
1gb ram
Nvidia GeForce fx 5200 128 mb ram
101gb TOTAL HDD space

i can tell that the system is loading windows i just CANT SEE it doing it
any help is greatly appreciated
thanks

Hello everyone.

Is there a setting in DEll's printers that can be used to deactivate/activate 3rd party CARTRIDGES? Remember reading something about a setting somewhere on the printers.Have you read the MANUAL for the printer?Yes, Dell does not offer much help on this. This is were Dell make thier money,. They R not going to offer much. What is the model of the printer?midsail, If you do not find a WAY to use the Dell information to overcome your "deactivation" desires (which THOUGH i do not have a dell printer--but have dealt with this issue on a variety of other printers) and i very much doubt that they will have a way of doing so--then PM me and i will give you a recommendation that has worked for me on other brands. The reason for the PM instead of the post is that it will be a recommendation for a product from a specific retail source (that i am only a user of and have no financial involvement in) and i hesitate to promote a commercial interest on the forums.truenorth

Our office has a Maxtor Shared Storage Plus installed onto our office network. It had been backing up our data weekly per back-up schedule. 3 weeks ago, we disconnected Maxtor from power and network for a few days until the time of back-up schedule. We expected Maxtor would resume its back-up according to the schedule, and never checked if it had been performing as expected. Until this weekend when we lost data from network and tried to downloaded data from Maxtor, then we found out that Maxtor had never been backing up since our re-connection. We also noticed that our UserID and password did not work. Even worse, Maxtor can now be access from any computer on the office network without any security passwork (Maxtor was NEVER accessible from other computers on the network before, only from the SERVER).


1. Does Maxtor not suppose to resume its back-up schedule after re-connection (power and ethernet)?

2. Why are UserID and password lost?

3. How can we resume its previous settings? Do we need to re-install and re-scheduled?

4. How to un-map Maxtor from the network, or just as it was before?


Desperate to know why and how! Thank you for your advice!!!!

I too have had a bad experience with a Maxtor DRIVES in a Netgear SC101 NAS DEVICE.
http://kb.netgear.com/app/products/model/a_id/2537

I too had security set to only allow specific users to access specific data on the network and one day it decided to allow everyone access to everything

Come to find out the NAS unit like an automatic update from Netgear through the software to administer it and it got a flash update that erased the security permissions and opened it wide open for everyone!!!

Reset the security permissions, and then 4 months later one of the hard drives failed in the pair of 320GB Maxtor Drives. Removed both hard drives to figure out which one failed since the device wont tell you, and had to plug them into a desktop computer as SLAVE to test. ((( IT WAS THEN...That I found out that the drives were not using FAT32 or NTFS, but some inaccessible by Windows Partition type...so if my NAS died, I would LOSE ALL DATA without the ability to read the partitions. Popped the healthy drive back in and frantically backed up all data to my towers 500GB drive.)))

Then called Netgear support in Pakistan, and asked how I could access my data if the device failed. They said sorry each device had to initialize the drives in it and write a specific to that units serial number boot instruction and moving the hard drive to another SC101 I would lose my data when it would force to reformat the drive for that units chipset.

I hung up the phone with them, removed my hard drive, made sure there was a CLEAR shot to the asphalt below and no danger to anyone or anything, and threw the empty NAS out the 3rd story window onto the parkinglot below. Then cleaned up the mess and shipped it back to Netgear with my complaint....Never heard a word from them. Biggest waste of money...

My suggestion is to make sure you mirror the data on your NAS with another systems hard drives extra drive capacity to avoid a total data loss. I would also remove one of your drives in your NAS mirror and see if its in a different partition table type that is inaccessible if the device failed as I found out with the Netgear SC101.

Generally I have always liked Netgears products, but this baby was a piece of junk.

What's the biggest (Storage Space) hard drive you can get for a Satellite pro440cdx Laptop? I believe 20GB. I haven't upgraded mine from the 2GB that it came with though. Can't figure out how to get to the HD....Quote from: BC_Programmer on February 22, 2009, 02:57:16 PM

I believe 20GB. I haven't upgraded mine from the 2GB that it came with though. Can't figure out how to get to the HD....

the 20GB? hmm I'll search for it again, I recall searching to see what was possible for mine as well.


On the other hand- I would guess you could get any HD with the proper connection.
On the other hand your question is valid in that it might only support up to 8GB, being from 96...

I believe 20GB. I haven't upgraded mine from the 2GB that it came with though. Can't figure out how to get to the HD....

I believe 20GB. I haven't upgraded mine from the 2GB that it came with though. Can't figure out how to get to the HD....

those are compatible with the connectors- but the BIOS will likely have limitations- I would say at most around 37GB.

Dear Forum,
I have a 5 year old Dell Dimension 4700. It is a P4 running at 3GHz, with 1GB RAM.
Looking at the NEW Dells, they are like 2.5GHz. How could this be? Do they run SLOWER, or faster than my 5 year old?
Thanks!
Mike
Newer processors (most likely, in this case, either Athlon X2 or Core 2 Duo) are much more efficient.
They also have more than one core, so can process more than one thing at once.
The speed difference is incredible - GHz is only one measurement of speed, and can only be used to directly compare processors from the same family.
Think of GHz as engine size on a car - an old 6 litre engine in a tank or something will be slow, but a turbocharged 1.4 litre in a small car will be very quick. Not an exact analogy, but I hope this helps a little.The RAM is usually faster and there is more of it in newer computers.
SATAII for hard drive connections also speeds up the computer a lot.
PCI-E 2.0 is also a lot faster (for graphics card connectors).
Together with dual or quad core, it makes a very significant difference- and 45nm technology means processors can have more power and a higher cache size than in the same space of the old ones.

Basically, everything has got smaller and therefore faster in the same amount of spaceThanks guys!
One more question: Is it worth getting Vista now, or still better to go with XP? I will probably still be using Office '2000.
Thanks!
Mike
Stick with XP......wait for the NEXT Windows OS...its being fasttracked due to the publics disdain for Vista.The overall processing speed of your computer is based on your CPU as Calum has stated...

Any additional hardware, such as RAM, SATA drives, etc...does not make your computer's processing speed any faster...though it does have an impact on your computer's overall performance.On that computer Vista wouldn't run very well. You need over 1gb for it to run at all nicely. Windows 7 is in BETA release now and is basically what Vista should have been.
Even Windows 7 won't run very well on that computer these days, unfortunately.

My neighbor asked me to destroy a old HARD drive for her today. She was also going to destroy this 168 PIN SDRAM memory module, however I asked for it, explaining what its purpose was. Unfortunately I have no idea of the memory value etc. If anyone can TELL me exactly what it is by the numbers printed on all of the 8 memory chips, it would be GREATLY appreciated. Numbers and letters are exactly as follows.

9944 4-2
MT 48LC8M8A2
TG -8E B

Just to the right of these numbers/letters, in a vertical position is: C2l J . It could be either as typed C 2 L J or C 2 I J....... hard to tell the difference.

On the other side of the module, it states:
PCSDRAM
REV1.0That's a 64MB module of 100MHz (PC100) speed SDRAM.
Hope this helps, and welcome to the forums.Thank you Calum. I appreciate your SPEEDY reply.You're welcome, happy to help.

My computer is a Dell E521. The screen was frozen, and I could not ctrl/alt/del to TASK menu. I powered off the computer with the on/off button. Now every time I attempt to reboot, the computer sounds fine as it comes on, but it will not load Windows. It loads the graphics card, and it stops on the Dell logo screen.
According to that screen, I should be able to access F2 or F12. I can access F2 (but not F12, whatever that is). In the computer Setup, it shows my computer is not seeing my hard drive. Neither tapping nor holding down F5 of F8 gets any result at all during restart. I cannot access Safe Mode.
Dell E521; VIDEO Card – NVYDIA 7600 GEFORCE; RAM 3.5 gig; OS = Windows XP; Fix-it Utilities for Virus Scan; No OS CD’s came with the computer.
I removed the panel on the computer and checked the cables, un-connecting and re-connecting them to the motherboard and to the hard drive; I also blew out the dust with canned air.
According to the booklet that came with Fix-It Utilities, the CD should boot the computer. When I first put in the CD, after loading, it showed a page with the three options. After powering down the computer, now when I put in the CD, it loads, but it won’t give me the options anymore; it just stays on its load screen.
I’d like to save the data on the hard drive at the very least, and at the most, I’d really be happy if I didn’t have to purchase a new hard drive or even a new computer.
I moved the computer from one side of the desk to another six days before the problem, but after the movement, the computer still WORKED fine.
The computer is two years old, and it was the victim of a lightning strike within the first two months I owed it. For a few days, it didn’t work at all, but once the power supply was replaced, it started up fine and has been working fine ever since, if that matters any. About four months ago, I had someone remove Vista , install Windows XP (and RAM sticks – 3 gigs), and download and install all necessary drivers. Everything worked fine until now. I am not computer savvy, but I can follow directions, should anyone have any ideas for me.
I apologize because I’m sure I probably gave too much information in some areas and not enough in others. Thanks for any help you might be able to give.
On Dell PC, F2 is to get into the BIOS and F12 gives u some more options, where to boot from CD, HDD, diagnostic utilities and to enter BIOS. . Try F2 this should get u into the BIOS. Select defaults and save exit. If this does not work, it might be that your HDD is bad. Remove the HDD in the PC and test it with a good known HDD. If it works with the replacement, the data on your old HHD is gone.Thank you for your reply.

It was necessary for me to replace the CMOS battery in order to get the BIOS to completely load, remove a bad stick of RAM, and install a new hard drive. The good news is the new hard drive is recognized. The bad news is a separate problem (and I'll search the forums to see if there might already be an answer for it, rather than posting it here).

Hey all,

My homemade COMPUTER, which has been a workhorse for almost 4 years now (yea, yea) is giving me a weird issue. It's turning on and running, power seems fine, but as it boots the monitor does not engage, and as far as I can tell, its not simply a monitor issue as I've tried logging in "blind" and nothing happens.

I just left it going for about 5 minutes and this time it simply shut off on it's own, which it has done before. Could this be a heat issue? Thanks!Need more infor:

brand of PC
memory
OS being used

Usually when something like this it is a heat problem. Make sure all fans R running, the CPU cooling sys is working.What are you hearing for beeps at startup?......Bad RAM, cooling issues, power supply or MB are all possible culprits. If beep code is normal a 4 year old power supply is a good place to start, especially if a bargain supply was used. Power supply was replaced about 18 months ago, got a decent one. Antec 380W.

Computer is running windows XP, 2 sticks of Ultra DDR 512mb, AMD 3200+ CPU with a LAN Party motherboard (can't REMEMBER model offhand). This computer has had some heat issues too.

Also, while its running, the USB mouse is getting power and the CD drive is responsive. Keyboard is not (its a PS/2). No beeps when starting up. I have this semi defective CD drive that I tried disconnecting, and that registered 1 long beep but only once after I REMOVED it.If you are getting nothing on the monitor at all, at boot up, it sounds like your Graphics Card may have died ..... do you know if you have a seperate Card or on board graphics ?sounds more like a board issueI don't think it's just a video card issue; I tried a USB keyboard and that got no response at all from the computer and numlock, etc would not work either. I clean it out thoroughly and removed a *censored* ton of dust, but I think it was too little too late. Did you try another monitor?

hello all,

The pc restarted itself and produced a continuous siren sound on booting(i cannt access BIOS, monitor is on standby) . his isnt the FIRST time as it happened two weeks ago and i TOOK the pc to the repair shop where they installed a new power supply, a case fan, and a 'cooling' soultion for the CPU. they said that CPU temperature was 60C and increasing when i would run a game and this was basically the reason for the prblem.

since then the pc worked fine although when i checked CPU temperature after i took it to the repair shop, it was around 55C and jumps to around 64C when running a game. but the pc was running so i thought its k.

However, this morning, i was playing a game(pes2006) when the pc restarted all of a sudden and the the same continuos siren sound appeared . i took it once again to the same repair shop where they said this could be a RAM incompatibility(there r three ram sticks one of the them is from a different manufacturer), or static electricity that could have causeed the second appearance of the problem. they also said that this time it has nothing to do with cpu temperature or any heat-related problems.

the pc now is at the repair shop but i would like to hear an opinion on this and if it is true that 55C on startup is normal for the CPU.

note: i checked the beep codes (BIOS is AWARD) and it INDICATES its a RAM problem.

PC specs:

- MOBO : Albatron 865.
- CPU : Intel P4 2.8 Ghz.
- Ram : 768 mb ram.
- VGA : nvidia FX5500 256 mb .


thanks for bearing with me and reading this long POST .First of all I would get it back from the repair shop and not take it back to them.

If you feel good enough about doing it there are plenty of people here that can walk you thru just about anything computer related. And unlike the repair shop they will only charge you a leg instead of an arm and a leg (just joking they don't charge)

What operating system are you using?

How clean is the inside of your comp? I know you took it to the repair shop but I have seen people get them back from the shop just as dirty as they were when they left.By the time I get into Windows from a cold start my My P4 3 GHZ is around 30 degrees C and it rarely goes above 45-50 unless it is doing intensive work. 55 C at startup and 64 during games is quite warm, but within limits and not unusual with a cheap CPU fan.This is simple, but is it in a dusty area? Like mrolifield said, it the PC clean? I always make sure my computer has a lot of space and is clean.thx for replies everyone...so everyone agrees the guys at the repair didnt really do a good job cooling down the cpu..thats wat i expected honestly..nyway moving to reply..



- am using xp sp2 and the pc is relatively clean but if i will clean it once its back n see wat happens.

hi again...

well i brought the PC back from the repair and they couldnt fix it. They kept yammering about the RAM being incompatible and that Albatron mobo are not a brand to trust and they were surprised that it could hang until now...

nyway, i took the PC to another repair shop and he made it run again, told me that the CPU is not fixed well and that wat causing the siren sound. He also told that Albatron is a very good mobo!

all is good now except the CPU heat which is still around 47 on startup. i noticed also when the last guy at the repair shop was removing the CPU, i noticed that as if the thermal paste is kinda worn off or something..am not sure though..how can i determine if thermal paste has expired ? and is it safe to add a new dose to the cpu?What is the temp on full load?
Thermal Paste Guide.thx for the guide patio..

Dias de verano :

i believe by full load you mean when running a game...when that happens, CPU reaches 57 C .. though mobo is always around 26 and hard drive 16..Quote from: Gilgamesh21 on February 23, 2009, 10:36:13 AM

thx for the guide patio..

Dias de verano :

i believe by full load you mean when running a game...when that happens, CPU reaches 57 C .. though mobo is always around 26 and hard drive 16..

Hi PEOPLE,
I need your help again. My daughters ( Lexmark Z600) printer is not working. After installing it via the original disk this morning it printed a successful test page. We then attempted to print a word document and whilst doing this the printer made all the right noises but just fed the paper through half way (which was blank)it then displayed an error message explaining that there is a printer problem. We have also tried to print text from other programs but to no avail. After going through the troubleshooting process we again tried to print a test page but this time we got only the windows SYMBOL and nothing more therefore this was incomplete also. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Graham. Try uninstalling drivers and then reinstalling. Just for peace of mind read the instruction from the printer. Some PRINTERS need to be disconnected from the PC will loading the SW. Hi Midsail,
Thanks for the suggestion, will give it a try. It is however an old printer so if we have no joy we may well lash out on a new one.


Cheers,


Graham.Hi people,
Just in case other people are as daft as me please read on. The problem I had with this printer has been solved, it just needs a a new BLACK cartridge. This was established by changing font colour on a document and watching it print out PERFECTLY. It also explains it printing the Windows symbol (coloured picture). Hopefully my experience may give other people a lead on anything similar.

(am buying new PSC printer, nearly as cheap as Lexmark cartridges).

Graham.

I have just been given a S/H DELL Dimension 4500 computer and I notice that this has TWO hard drives.

My question is how to access these two hard drives because only one the c: appears to be accessible.

one drive is a Maxtor 37 GB with unused and the other is WDC with189GB unused and it is this second drive that I cannot access..............

I guess this is quite a simple question but I don't want to change too many settings.

Obviously it would be great to use all that space....................

The operating system is Windows XP
Does it boot to XP ? ?
If so right click My Computer and select Manage...then Disk Management...
FIND the WD drive )probably D: ) and right click it and select Properties...
Report back with your findings.

It may just be empty.Quote from: eddiewa on February 22, 2009, 03:52:51 PM

... the other is WDC with189GB unused and it is this second drive that I cannot access..............

Hi, I just built a new system with the FOLLOWING specs:

ASUS M3N-78 motherboard
AMD Athlon64 X2 5000+ processor
2 gb ddr2 ram
antec tp-II 550 watts power supply (not new; from a previous system i'm replacing)
seagate 320 gb sata drive
seagate 200 gb sata drive
lite-on dvd writer

I use an APC ups with an output capacity of 300 watts. I use the onboard video of the motherboard and it works just fine. Just yesterday, I tried to add an Inno3d 9600 GT Overclocked edition videocard but when I start to power up the computer, it will turn on and just turn off. When I try to turn on the power SWITCH it wont power up again. I would unplug the PC from the APC then plug it again and turn on the pc. Then the APC would start beeping and there's no power to the pc. I know that my power supply is good enough for this system. I am thinking that it might be the APC cause its only 300 watts and might not be enough for this system. COULD this be the case? For the moment, can I just use an AVR on my pc rather than a UPS? Right, now I'm not really concerned with power backups, just stable power.I'd go with a 750va UPS surprised that it ran ok before video upgrade on just 300va bottleneckI don't know what AVR has to do with your situation. Anyway, have you tried simply plugging your computer into an outlet, at least long enough to confirm it will power up when not connected to your UPS?

This may SOUND WEIRD and I hope I have the right section.
My question is:
Is it possible to use my laptop as the keyboard and monitor for my TOWER unit.
If so, what connections do I have to make?
Many thanks
JohnNot possible I'm afraid.

There are plenty laptop-style KEYBOARDS available on the market.Okay,
Many thanks.
But I have found a small way around it, by connecting the laptop to the tower as a remote connection. Now I can use the tower programs, or the laptop.Hmmmm.....All right.

I have a DELL Inspiron 6400 laptop with a 1.75Ghz Intel Pentium Dual core processor and I want to replace it with at least a 2Ghz processor. How do I tell what kind of processor my laptop needs? Some people have told me it can be risky to replace a processor. Why is this and what is the risk?
Thanks.In a laptop this can be a costly venture and the risk/reward factor for a 8 to 10% INCREASE in performance ...if that is probably not worth it.
Many laptop CPU's are soldered into place making this a non-do it yourselfer job.I've never seen a laptop with a soldered CPU ... I believe that's mostly older models but I could be wrong.
To find out what kind of processor you need, you'll need to check all the Dell documentation and read up on websites too, to see what has worked for other people.
The risks are mainly that it won't work, or the new CPU will not be cooled adequately by the COOLING system - if you research it properly there's no risk involved.
Having said that, the most important question is why do you want to UPGRADE? Going from 1.75 to 2GHz isn't much of a speed increase and it will probably be quite costly.

Looks like I got my 'just desserts' this morning.

After about an hour of troubleshooting, I FOUND out why I couldn't connect to my P2P network.

I am using a Realtek RTL8139/810x Family Fast Ethernet NIC. I ran Realtek's diagnostics program and every time I do a 'link' test, it fails.

I rarely use this NIC because I have a wireless connection that PLUGS straight into the USB port, I'm wondering if this could be why it doesn't work, because it is rarely used.

Now here's what REALLY puzzles me: If I run the diagnostics and leave the 'loopback' test on REPEAT and use a static IP, it will say connected but will not connect to the other computer. With the diagnostics program CLOSED, with or without DHCP enabled, it will say 'Limited or no connectivity' or 'Network cable unplugged'.

What's going on?! Can anyone help me with this please?
Thanks!!

Using Windows XP Service Pack 2
Realtek RTL8139/810x Family Fast Ethernet NIC
Working CAT5 crossover cable

EDIT: It also says connected with the network cable unplugged LITERALLY and with the Realtek Diagnostics RUNNING!

GUD DAY GUYS!

IM HAVING A PROBLEM WITH MY COMPUTER. MY COMPUTER DOES NOT BOOT UP. IT ONLY DISPLAYS THE LOGO OF THE MSI VCLASS BOARD. I HAVE MSI V-CLASS MOTHERBOARD, 2X512 DDR2 MEMORY. I JUST CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHAT THE PROBLEM REALLY IS. IT TURNS ON. NO BEEPS THAT SIGNIFIES ANY ERROR. CPU FAN TURNS PROPERLY. ALSO, I CANT ENTER INTO BIOS SET UP. CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH THIS?

ECX,
------------------------------------------
IDEAS ARE MEANT TO BE SHARED!reinsert your RAM & reconnect your IDE cable.. HDD detect in BIOS settings?i can't even enter into the BIOS menuanyway, i have RESOLVED my problem.. thanks What did you do?i have two of them in the internet cafe, one is memory problem and the other one is mouse problem.. i tried unplugging all devices CONNECTED to it and return them one by one thats when i found out that the mouse is the one thats preventing it from booting up.Quote from: ecxzqute on November 09, 2008, 08:27:54 PM

GUD DAY GUYS!

IM HAVING A PROBLEM WITH MY COMPUTER. MY COMPUTER DOES NOT BOOT UP. IT ONLY DISPLAYS THE LOGO OF THE MSI VCLASS BOARD. I HAVE MSI V-CLASS MOTHERBOARD, 2X512 DDR2 MEMORY. I JUST CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHAT THE PROBLEM REALLY IS. IT TURNS ON. NO BEEPS THAT SIGNIFIES ANY ERROR. CPU FAN TURNS PROPERLY. ALSO, I CANT ENTER INTO BIOS SET UP. CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH THIS?

ECX,
------------------------------------------
IDEAS ARE MEANT TO BE SHARED!

Quote from: ecxzqute on November 09, 2008, 08:27:54 PM

GUD DAY GUYS!

IM HAVING A PROBLEM WITH MY COMPUTER. MY COMPUTER DOES NOT BOOT UP. IT ONLY DISPLAYS THE LOGO OF THE MSI VCLASS BOARD. I HAVE MSI V-CLASS MOTHERBOARD, 2X512 DDR2 MEMORY. I JUST CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHAT THE PROBLEM REALLY IS. IT TURNS ON. NO BEEPS THAT SIGNIFIES ANY ERROR. CPU FAN TURNS PROPERLY. ALSO, I CANT ENTER INTO BIOS SET UP. CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH THIS?

ECX,
------------------------------------------
IDEAS ARE MEANT TO BE SHARED!

Everything SEEMS to bee WORKING, but there's no video. I've tried different video cards and MONITORS. There are no BEEPS. Everything seems to be running.Give a bit more info .... i.e. System specs ... is this a new build ? or has it been working previously ?

What PSU/Gfx Card ?

Here is interesting problem for someone MUCH smarter than I am.

I been having some serious problems lately with my monitor while PC gaming. After playing just about any game (although the two I've been playing recently are Fallout 3 and Warhammer 40k Dark Crusade) the image on my screen will suddenly become scrambled beyond recognition. Oddly enough, this doesn't appear to have any affect on the game, which continue to run as if nothing has happened. If I hit alt-tab on my keyboard to get out of the game, and then alt-tab to get back in, the image is restored (although some games, like Fallout 3, don't take alt-tab very well and sometimes crash at that point). When the problem first started, it only happened occasionally; I didn't worry about it too much because it was only a minor nusance (unfortunately, this means I don't remember much about when it started happening). Over a period of about 2 to 3 months it has gotten increasingly worse, and now happens every 5 to 10 minutes.

Here's a list of the solutions I've already tried; I'm not a certified computer expert by any means, so you might get a kick out of some of these:

I downloaded the latest drivers from nVidia for my graphics card: no results.
I attached my computer to a different monitor (one which used a different type of input cable): the problem remains.
I wiped my hard drive and reinstalled Windows XP Home: the problem still remains.
I updated the drivers for my chipset and flashed the BIOS: glitch still there.
I disabled SLI and removed one of my graphics cards: problem continues.
I swapped the graphics card I removed for the one still in my machine: no luck.
I disconnected my SPEAKERS and even unistalled my audio drivers: no joy.
I downloaded a 3rd party Xtremem-G graphics driver for my card to replace the normal nVidia driver: Kobayashi Maru.
I OFFERED a sacrifice to the god of technology: he mocked me mercilessly.

Here are the specs for my computer:

MOTHERBOARD: ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe
Processor: AMD Athalon 64 X2 Dual Core 4400+
Graphics Card(s): GeForce 7900 GT KO
Ram: 2 Gig
Hard Drives: 2 Western Digital Raptor SATA Drives in RAID
Power Supply: 620W

As I mentioned earlier, the strange thing about the problem is that it doesn't seem to have any DIRECT impact on the game running. The computer doesn't STALL or freeze up -- it doesn't seem to realize that the image on the screen is scrambled. I've gone so far as to take a "print screen picture" when the monitor image is scrambled, and the picture looks fine (no scrambling at all). Temperature doesn't appear to be the problem; according to the ASUS Ai Booster program temperature levels are normal. I don't overclock. I've scanned for viruses, haven't found any. This problem only seems to kick in when I'm playing a game; internet browsing and Offices application appear to be totally unaffected. To say that I'm frustrated is something of any understatment. Please help if you know how to solve this problem.

Okay guys,

I'm a college student. I bought my laptop roughly a year and a half ago when I started and have taken GOOD care of it. However, I've NOTICED that when I play music over the built-in speakers, it tends to skip and stutter at random parts in the songs. It's usually okay with acoustic/slower music, but rap and rock are the worst. I do NOT have this issue when I use headphones plugged in. I've been playing more music over the speakers lately and am really starting to notice the issue. It almost seems as if my PROCESSOR can't keep up or something, as when it skips, it seems to be "thinking." Also, if I am typing when it "skips" my words lag behind. I have all my virus software and such up-to-date, so that's not an issue.

Have any idea what my problem could be? Is my hard drive too bogged down or something? Any help you can give me is greatly APPRECIATED. This is really starting to bother me.

If you need specs, let me know!hi. did you recently install anything or do anything around the time this happened or did it just start happening?

it does sound like a buffer problem (excuse the poor technical terms im not very good at remembering them)

specs WOULD be good to have a look at.

also are you running many applications when playing music?

I got a used hard drive from a relative that he was getting rid of because he upgraded. It's a 120 gig ide drive, and right now in my pc I have an 80 gig ide drive. I guess what I want to do is clean the 120 gig drive, and INSTALL it, maybe use it for storage, or maybe use the 80 gig drive for storage--I'm not sure which would be best, nor how to go about doing these THINGS. I know how to physically install the drive, but how do I set up the drive and wipe it clean and all those things? What's really the best thing for me to do considering that I'm running out of room on the 80 gig?If you have any problems physically installing the drive refer to this tutorial.
http://www.dtidata.com/resourcecenter/2007/04/23/how-to-slave-hard-drive/

Once you have the drive installed you want to go to Disk Management. Click Start then Run and type in: diskmgmt.msc and press enter. Find the drive and format it. Then you can use it for storing your data.Thanks. I just REMEMBERED that I should've told you I'm using XP. So is there any specific changes to what I would do with that in MIND?No. No changes will be needed...
It will show up as D: in Windows Explorer.Thanks for all the help.

I have a hp compaq nc4010 latop intel centrino the touchpad can move but can't click.Hi,

CHECK if touchpad tapping is enabled:

Control Panel - > Mouse -> Mouse Properties -> DEVICE Settings - > Settings -> Tappings
check the BOX "enable tapping" >> OK

You may also try REINSTALLING the Synaptics Touchpad Driver (WIN XP):

http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/SoftwareDescription.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&prodTypeId=321957&prodSeriesId=395732&prodNameId=395734&swEnvOID=1093&swLang=8&mode=2&taskId=135&swItem=ob-29679-1

I'm trying to install an update from the Microsoft Update Website but I am unsuccessful, because it says I don't enough free space on local disk (C): I'd say that it was about a year ago that I self installed a Seagate ST3300631A-RK 300 GB hard drive on my Sony Vaio Computer. When I open up My Computer it shows in Properties of local disk (C): 138 MB of free space out of a total of 14.9 GB. In the local disk (D): it shows 112 MB of free space out of a total of 113 GB. Did I do something wrong when I installed the Seagate drive and if I did is there a
solution to my problem. clear out some space - 100 odd MEG per partition just isn't enough at all
in the drive where windows is installed - you should have at least 3 gig free C: = 15G
D: = 115G
Total = 130G.

Sounds like you hit the 137G BARRIER in Windows setting up the drive as you are not USING approx 160G...

The best ALTERNATIVE would be to backup all your data and/ or use an image program to create an image of the C: drive.
Then use the drive manuf. tools to prepare the drive using all the unused space and then clone the C: drive back to it.

Hi,
I have just replaced the CMOS Battery in my Grandaughters pc, but I did not check any of the CMOS settings. Now when I switch the computer on, I keep getting the Virtual Memory Low warning. If I go into the BIOS, and set the default values, would this correct any errors, as apart from the virtual memory low, a lot of the programs are not responding at all. Thanks.
MartinDid you get this error before you replaced the CMOS bat?

Replacing the CMOS battery usually has nothing to do with Virtual Memory.Hi,
Actually, I was asked to have a look at the pc,as it would not switch on at all. I first thought of the fuse in the mains lead, but this was okay. As the pc is nearly 8 years old I just replaced the CMOS Battery, I do not know of any previous errors. Thanks
MartinClick START then open the control panel. click Performance & maintance,& click on system.Click on advance tab> Under performance click settings.Click on advanced tab>Under virtual memory click change.Under drive [volumelable] click the drive that containes the paging file [virtual memory] settings that you WANT to change. Normally C: drive. click to select the " System MANAGED size" option,then click set. Click OK 3 TIMES & restart your system.What version of Windows...and does it BOOT into Windows properly ? ?Hi,
Thanks. Windows version is XP Home Edition. I have tried changing the virtual memory, but it does not make any differance.
MartinForgot!!! It does boot up normally, but after boot up,I am not able to open any programs, I have to wait a while and then it is okay.
MartinThe CMOS shouldn't be causing this, you may just have a slowdown with the CPU or not enough RAMLet's get some info on the machine...
And check how much free space you have on your hard drive also...

Hi experts,

Computer Details

Single SMPS - 400W
HDD - 80 gig IDE (two), 250 gig SATA --- SATA has XP SP2
DVD RW - SATA (Sony DL)
Motherboard - Intel 945GCL
Processor - Intel Core 2 Duo

I have one IDE slot - taken up by the two 80 gig hard drives and 4 SATA slots, of which only 2 are in use, as mentioned.

I want to add one more SATA HDD (500 gig or 1 TB to the system.) Can I do so? Is there any problem with the power? How much will each device take?

If YES, any reason why I should go for 500 gig over 1TB? Stability related anything ?

I know I can REMOVE the 2 IDE devices and then power will not be a problem, but I am hoping for a solution whereby I can retain all devices as is.

Thanks in advance.
you should be fine.

I'm only using a 250 WATT and I have maxed out the RAM, and it has a 500GB HD and two DVD burners.

my old PC was only 250 watts as well and it had three Hard drives, a DVD burner, and the RAM was maxed out.

however the old PC probably didn't have enough power as my third HD would randomly dissapear from the system.


but 400Watts should more then cover your setup if you add an extra drive- depending of course on your graphics card power requirements (IE: what graphics card do you have)


there are only a few reasons to go with a 500GB over a 1TB, aside from price, of course,one would be that if it fails you lose less data, the other BIOS compatibility issues.

of course if you have a proper backup failure is merely inconvenient rather then a stab in the face, so it would be kind of silly to use a 500GB SIMPLY because you lose less data.

And as FAR as BIOS compatibility any BIOS from a P4 onwards, at least, likely can detect and use a 1TB drive.



Additionally- if you install a 1TB drive, you can easily partition it to replace the two IDE drives letters with 80GB partitions- and then copy your data over, meaning you could remove the IDE drives. (why do you need them installed- do they contain OS's for a multi-boot setup?). This is what I did to replace my old three-disk 2GB 8GB 160GB configuration with my single 500GB originally, I just partitioned the new drive and copied data and then rebooted with it and changed the drive letters back as appropriate.
thanks for the tip

fyi - i have 2x1gig RAM - occupying both slots and no external graphics accelerator card (My processor provides 280 meg of graphics, I think.) - no problemo ?

appreciate the suggestion to rename the drive letters and copy the data from the old IDE disks and go on with life. - i can then remove the old IDE 80 gigs and use them as backup


thanks a lot

hi all..my friend gave me his old computer ...i plugged in my own monitor and it says

"monitor is in power save mode"

the computer is booting up and my keyboard works with it...but it wont let me view anything apart from that... i know that he used to use the computer for gaming online and maybe i have to change some settings..but im not sure what.

does anyone have any suggestions for me....??


thanks for readingTry to put the computer to another monitor and and see if you could see something.thanks but i dont have another monitor that i can use... Any switches on the monitor itself ? ?hi...thanks for replying...the only switches are a menu button for contrast n stuff which did nothing when pressed and the on/off switch...how did you set this up? I used a crt when I installed xp on my one machine and then attempted to use a lcd but after a while it didnt work. Casue of the differnce in hardware.im really baffled ...the computer he gave me is a newer version of the one i that im using now...i know the computer he gave me is in full working order ...i just assumed that my monitor and his computer would work together ..i've never had this KIND of TROUBLE before...all i can THINK is that because he was online gaming that he was probably using a joystick..does anyone think this might be the problem and maybe i have to do something at start up of the newer computer???

thanksIt was the way windows was configured when it was installed. You can attempt to do a repair mite work. hi there....thanks for helping me...it was just plain sillyness on my part...i tried searching in google about my problem and i read a post that SAID someones son had plugged the monitor into the WRONG port....so i had a look at my friends machine and it had a monitor port on the graphics card itself...i had it plugged into the standard one...so here i am on the new computer...yay


thankyou

hi,
I have a problem with my cpu FAN, the problem it the COOLER doesnt starts on cpu fans 4 pins.
The cpu fans 4 pins connector its broke.
What can i do?
My moderboard is a asus m3a79-t Deluxe.

If i put the cooler 4 pins connector in another fan pins the cooler works fine.

BUT that fans pins are different its not for cpu fans 4 pins but normal fans 3 pins


That can be a problem?

please help.
IMAGE

[attachment deleted by admin]CHECK the MBoard manual for the CPU fan voltage...if it's 5v they have Molex/4pin fan adapters for this.what do you mean in the BOOK is nothing talking about voltage cpu fans.this is the NOX ATX URANO 700W 14CM SLI power supply what can i do? my cpu fans now its not working its faulty but why why i reboot 3 times and the chip burn

Can anyone supply Chapter Four of the Okidata Service Guide for this/these printer(s)? I have a copy of the MANUAL on CD but the right hand column of each page is truncated and things such as Switch settings are therefore missing. AGSON faxed me these pages from their files but they are truncated also. I need to perform the PROTECTOR GAP adjustment.
JohnlDid you Google?
I found the first one right away: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&ct=res&cd=3&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.feedroller.com%2FStore%2Fservice%2520manual%255Cser3410.pdf&ei=iRa_SbeJFJfMMonDwaYN&usg=AFQjCNF350_l6n5QVL_BlS1COUmiThpD6Q&sig2=WsbZnii5IbgbwCnKfp9AYgQuote from: Broni on March 16, 2009, 09:20:57 PM

Did you Google?
I found the first one right away: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&ct=res&cd=3&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.feedroller.com%2FStore%2Fservice%2520manual%255Cser3410.pdf&ei=iRa_SbeJFJfMMonDwaYN&usg=AFQjCNF350_l6n5QVL_BlS1COUmiThpD6Q&sig2=WsbZnii5IbgbwCnKfp9AYg