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I have a Dell Dimension 4100 and my FATHER has some laptop. Every know and again the CD Drive can't be seen on my computer and to fix it I just formated the whole pc and transfered my files off. But he has ENCOUNTERED the same problem and doesn't want to format the drive.Go to Device Manager and see if the CD Rom shows. They will be listed as Primary IDE Channels. Try going to Properties>Driver>Roll back Driver. That might do it. If not you got to access the BIOS and check the IDE settings there. NEVER mind my father went to MICROSOFTS website and it told him to get rid of two files an it started working again. Might be the same way for mine if it happens again.Hey Squall, GLAD he got that fixed. Woud you happen to know what two files or what page her got that from? Just like to see it for reference.

My computer is Gateway's GM5088
Running Windows XP Pro
5.1.2600 Service pack 2 Build 2600
x86 family 15 model35 Stepping 2 Authentic AMD~2411MHZ
I also have Panda I. S. Spybot S.D. and Ad aware installed.
AMD Athlon™ 64 X2 4600+ dual core processor with AMD64 Technology

* Operates at 2.4 GHz
* 2000 MHz system bus
* 512 KB ×2 L2 cache

Memory: 2048 MB DDR 400 MHz (PC3200) memory (four 512 MB modules)

Integrated NVIDIA GeForce® 6100 graphics with up to 128 MB of Shared Video Memory.

AMD Sempron / Athlon64 / Athlon X2 ( Socket 939 ) support
Up to 1GHz FSB
Chipset North bridge : nVIDIA® GeForce™ 6100 CPU
South bridge : nVIDIA® nForce™ 410 MCP
Memory 4 DIMM slot
DDR 333 / 400
IDE Interface 2 IDE Connectors Support Ultra DMA ATA 100 / 133
VGA Interface PCI Express x16 slot
Expansion Slots 1 PCI Express x16 slot
1 PCI Express x1 slot
2 PCI slot

Yesterday I installed the Geforce 8600 GTS video card. Everything worked fine until today.

Yesterday I monitored the GPU temperature with the Nvidia monitor; and it averaged 60 to 70 degrees celsius.

I checked the mobos temperature in bios and it appears to average around 45 degrees celsius. This morning I installed PC Wizard 2008 to monitor the CPU Temperature. Right now it is 47 degrees celsius.

This morning while sitting the pc was sitting idle; the screen lost the video connection and went black. I did a hard shut down and rebooted the pc. Everything seems to be working; except the mouse is very DIFFICULT to control. It STICKS causing me to loose control of it, every few seconds.

I'm thinking about removing the Geforce card; and resetting the bios and go back to using the Geforce 6100 card. I'm not into video games, mostly just sort of experimenting getting to know my pc.

Also I don't think I have very good air flow inside my case.
In addition, though all the fans work; I don't think they are doing actually doing very much of anything to cool the inside.

The fan on the Geforce 8600 works but it looks kind of impudent.

When I put my hand over the exhaust on the back of the case, I don't feel any air moving. When I wet my hand, and held it over the same location I felt only a slight bit of air flow. Is this normal? I'm thinking of replacing this fan with something better. I'd appreciate any recommendation for a fan replacement here! Noise is not a serious issue for me.

This pc makes no sound; compared to my older pc; I can hear it from the next room. Also the two PSU fans are kind of wimpy when it comes to creating air flow.


Aditional INFO. Things I did earlier this week.
I had been worrying that I may have fried my mobo while installing an inexpensive 600watt Ultra psu.

The pc was down on Friday and Saturday as I went to purchase a new psu. I had already reset the bios. I then installed the new 520w corsair psu, with the 24 pin, and 4 pin 12v connectors; and the 8600 gts video card.

I started out using the whole 24 pin connector and the 4 pin 12v connector. I've seen, or read recommendations that one use all 24 connectors in the 24 pin slot. If I understand correctly, this is how one gets the 3rd 12v rail. I've also read the opposite in a few places; that using all 24 instead of just the 20 pin connect may create system instability. My original 300w power supply only had 20 of the 24 pins connected. The GPU temperature was averaging between 65 and 70 degrees celsius when I changed from the 24 pin connector back to 20 pins. The four on the left being empty. I don't know if this has anything to do with the GPU or not but after I restarted the pc the GPU began to average 55 degrees celsius. I don't know whether, that may be just coincidences.

I had already stopped worrying about updating the bios. Though I had updated the drivers for the on board card. I'm not sure if this was necessary. Turned out all I needed to do was make sure the new card was connected properly, for my gateway mother board to recognize it.

After installing the second new psu the pc would not start. So I removed the new card and restarted the pc; to my complete surprise it started properly. I then reinstalled the card properly and the mobo recognized it with no issues.

That was late Saturday; now I'm back to trouble shooting the video disconnect and blank monitor. An hour ago; I went to the store; leaving the pc on; when I returned just now the screen was black; and the green power light on the monitor was yellow. Again I did a hard shut down, and restarted the pc. The next time it does that Geforce 8600 gts video card is out of here.

this is just a side note.
I read some place where the Geforce 8600 (but not the EVGA Geforce 8600 GTS card as I have) was recommended to someone who had a similar system to mine. It was suggested the 8600 was the latest card which would fit into their machine. Since I have an almost identical machine; thats how I choose that particular video card.

Here are a few other incidentals.
1. When I installed the Geforce video card the directions say to first update the bios. I found several instances more experience people couldn't find any bios updates anywhere for this FIC mobo KTBC51G LF

2. The directions say to remove the existing graphics adapter by removing the retaining screws. Also to apply the retaining crews when installing the new card. I dont think there are any retaining screws; and I didn't remove the old card as I the mobo appeared to recognize the new card without the need to remove the old one.

Also during the software installation for the new card; I may have made an error when the program asked me something regarding my systems use of 32 bit or 64 bit. Thats not very clear but I don't remember the question exactly. Anyways I was a little confused as always; and choose the 32 bit option; perhaps I should have chosen the the 64 bit option. I don't know what the heck I'm talking about. Perhaps some one does; who knows?


Thanks for any, and all comments, HELP, and or attention to these issues.

TMC

wow, long post. ok, a few things to clear up...

Quote

I didn't remove the old card

When I put my hand over the exhaust on the back of the case, I don't feel any air moving.

I'd appreciate any recommendation for a fan replacement here!

I started out using the whole 24 pin connector and the 4 pin 12v connector

something regarding my systems use of 32 bit or 64 bit.

Prior to that I went into the msconfig utility and start ups and unchecked Ncpl, and Nvmctray and ok without restarting.

I supose I just need to pop in the CD which came with the 8600 gts?

It's dimensions are 3 5/8 X 3 5/8" X 7/8" deep.

I went into the Advanced Bios Feature; and the fourth boot device was listed as (Nvidia Age) which I disabled. As of right now it is still disabled. I suppose I should leave it that way?

Thanks again Homer for all the help.

After about 10 minutes of gaming, my computer freezes and all sound echoes and locks up. I just reformatted my computer to see if it would fix it and nothing. This problem has been going on for about 5 months now and it just started happening again after I reformatted. Here is my DX Diag.

ystem Information
------------------
Time of this report: 1/1/2008, 23:48:25
Machine name: ERIK-87D0C76805
Operating System: Windows XP Home Edition (5.1, Build 2600) Service Pack 2 (2600.xpsp_sp2_gdr.070227-2254)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: To Be Filled By O.E.M.
System Model: To Be Filled By O.E.M.
BIOS: BIOS Date: 09/24/04 16:10:38 Ver: 08.00.09
PROCESSOR: AMD Athlon(tm) 3200+, MMX, 3DNow, ~2.2GHz
Memory: 1022MB RAM
Page File: 202MB used, 2258MB available
Windows Dir: C:\WINDOWS
DirectX Version: DirectX 9.0c (4.09.0000.0904)
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
DxDiag Version: 5.03.2600.2180 32bit Unicode

------------
DxDiag Notes
------------
DirectX Files Tab: No problems found.
Display Tab 1: No problems found.
Sound Tab 1: No problems found.
Music Tab: No problems found.
Input Tab: No problems found.
Network Tab: No problems found.

--------------------
DirectX Debug Levels
--------------------
Direct3D: 0/4 (n/a)
DirectDraw: 0/4 (retail)
DirectInput: 0/5 (n/a)
DirectMusic: 0/5 (n/a)
DirectPlay: 0/9 (retail)
DirectSound: 0/5 (retail)
DirectShow: 0/6 (retail)

---------------
Display Devices
---------------
Card name: NVIDIA GeForce 6800
Manufacturer: NVIDIA
Chip type: GeForce 6800
DAC type: Integrated RAMDAC
Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_0041&SUBSYS_A3433842&REV_A1
Display Memory: 128.0 MB
Current Mode: 1280 x 1024 (32 bit) (60Hz)
Monitor: Plug and Play Monitor
Monitor Max RES: 1600,1200
Driver Name: nv4_disp.dll
Driver Version: 6.14.0011.6921 (English)
DDI Version: 9 (or higher)
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
Driver Date/Size: 12/5/2007 01:41:00, 5773568 bytes
WHQL Logo'd: Yes
WHQL Date Stamp: n/a
VDD: n/a
Mini VDD: nv4_mini.sys
Mini VDD Date: 12/5/2007 01:41:00, 7435392 bytes
Device Identifier: {D7B71E3E-4301-11CF-FB40-488300C2CB35}
Vendor ID: 0x10DE
Device ID: 0x0041
SubSys ID: 0xA3433842
Revision ID: 0x00A1
Revision ID: 0x00A1
Video Accel: ModeMPEG2_A ModeMPEG2_B ModeMPEG2_C ModeMPEG2_D
Deinterlace Caps: {6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{6CB69578-7617-4637-91E5-1C02DB810285}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
Registry: OK
DDraw Status: Enabled
D3D Status: Enabled
AGP Status: Enabled
DDraw Test Result: Not run
D3D7 Test Result: Not run
D3D8 Test Result: Not run
D3D9 Test Result: Not run

-------------
Sound Devices
-------------
Description: SB LIVE! 24-bit
Default Sound Playback: Yes
Default Voice Playback: Yes
Hardware ID: PCI\VEN_1102&DEV_0007&SUBSYS_100A1102&REV_00
Manufacturer ID: 1
Product ID: 100
Type: WDM
Driver Name: P17.sys
Driver Version: 5.12.0001.0514 (English)
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
WHQL Logo'd: Yes
Date and Size: 6/15/2007 02:47:26, 1127936 bytes
Other Files:
Driver Provider: CREATIVE
HW Accel Level: Full
Cap Flags: 0xF5F
Min/Max SAMPLE Rate: 4000, 96000
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 64, 63
Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 64, 63
HW Memory: 0
Voice Management: Yes
EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: Yes, Yes
I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: No, No
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): No
Registry: OK
Sound Test Result: Not rundid you overclock your video card? is your video cards fan running? is your CPU fan running? are your case fans running?

I have two PC's. One is a PII the other is a P3 that was my wifes. I WANT to take the HDD from my PII and install it in the P3. The system won't boot (even in safe mode) because of DRIVER problems. How can I make this work.

Thanks
One thing to do (with the hard drive you want to use) is to boot up with a windows disk and repair windows. This basically reinstalls windows and keys it to the new motherboard.

Another possible thing is to make it a slave drive to the old hard drive.
Then log in under administrator.
Then right click on the slave drive and go to PROPERTIES.
In properties there should be something about security.
You NEED to reassign ownership of all files to any user.
Then you can move files from one drive to the other.Quote from: BenEndow on January 01, 2008, 03:20:28 PM

I want to take the HDD from my PII and install it in the P3. The system won't boot (even in safe mode) because of driver problems. How can I make this work.

Hi everyone,
I was playing game with my NEW MSI GX600 laptop... It worked fine in the first few days. However, it turned off all of a sudden while i was playing it this afternoon. I guess the problem might due to the overheating of the battery.. I'm not sure though. I rebooted the laptop after that, and it seemed work fine except the cursor PAD on my laptop didn't work.

So I rebooted it again, and here is the problem: the screen freezes at the OPENING screen (w/ the big MSI icon at the center). I waited for about 10 mins, and it still didn't go further. That is it keeps showing the black screen without loading the windows. I tried to press different buttons like Del, Esc, Tab....and no one worked. I've tried to see if the Num lock was still WORKING, but it didn't give any respond...

So after all my laptop is not able to get to the Bios screen, and I can do nothing on it. Does somebody know what's wrong with my laptop? I'm appreciated if someone can give me some clues. THANKS so much! =]

I have a Samsung SH-S203 DVD burner I'm trying to put into a Dell Dimension 4600i. I open the case, first, I've never removed a CD Drive and I couldn't even take it out even though I got the screws out, apparently I'm supposed to pull it out the front but I have no idea how as the case doesn't come out, and, second, when looking at the new DVD Burner, it had two cables that come with it, the black ends fit PERFECTLY into the DVD burner, however, where do the ends that are supposed to be plugged into the computer go? It is SATA. I have no idea what to do. I tried some online guides but they did all but tell me the answer.You either have SATA port on your motherboard, or you'll have to get SATA to IDE adapter.
In any case, wait for some hardware guys for more advice.Dell's guide to REMOVING or installing drives in your model:
HTTP://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim4600/en/4600i/sm/parts.htm#1138667
Scroll through it to the section about removing the front face and replacing CD drives

Dell's diagram of system board components showing the location of your serial ATA headers on the board:
http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim4600/en/4600i/sm/techov.htm#1138947

Main page of the online service manual from Dell for your model for future reference:
http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim4600/en/4600i/sm/index.htm

Please feel free to ask more questions if you feel confused or need help Quote

In any case, wait for some hardware guys for more advice.

The cd drive should slide out the front if you unpluged everthing. I wouldn't take out the cd drive just in case that the dvd drive ever fails. But you can. There are three connectors on that cable asumeing that the cd drive has one you dont need to use the cable unless it fails. You can simply plug the drive on to the second connector. Then connect the power a small four pin female connector. If you already removed the cd drive look for a 40 pin connector on the motherboard which is the board everything plugs into. The one end connects into it. Then mount the drive and you should be able to use the drive.

hi all

i have a (emax USB) stick and i have put music photos and other stuff on it and i want to put it on my laptop which is running vista when i put me USB into the 2.0 USB port it comes up with a error message saying
(HARDWARE id missing) then it says "windows cant identify device plugged into USB 2.0 ports ONE"
i have try my USV in every USB ports on the laptop what should i do
me memory stick works on my MANE computer fine so theres nothing wrong with the USB stick is there


w00kie

p.s my laptop runs vista You probably need a driver most stuff for Vista isn't seen by the old stuff that was used on earlier windows and it depends how old the stick is so it may not be see it.USB flash drives don't need drivers, at least since Win 2K.Quote from: squall_01 on December 31, 2007, 09:33:59 PM

You probably need a driver most stuff for Vista isn't seen by the old stuff that was used on earlier windows and it depends how old the stick is so it may not be see it.

Last night at the same time that I docked my iPod (connected to my PC via USB on a new off-brand dock), I RECEIVED a “Delayed Write” warning on the file $Mft on my Seagate FreeAgent 250 USB external hard drive that I keep connected to my PC at all times for additional storage.

I am assuming that the two events were related, as 1) I have never had any issues before I connected the dock to my PC (its been connected for about 3 months straight now) and 2) the dock also tends to freak out my USB scanner when the iPod is connected. I had to unplug and reconnect the scanner to wake it up.

I Googled $Mft and LEARNED that this is the NTFS file table. That would explain why I was able to browse the root of the external drive, but not find any files with the FOLDERS in the root.

I shut down and unplugged the iPod dock, returning my PC to its previous state. Upon reboot, everything appeared normal with the external and continues to look fine since then.

Is there any way to find out for sure that the events were related and the dock was the culprit? Could anything on the external have been damaged permanently? I use this drive for backups and to store LARGER files, so its stability is important to me.

I figure I will do a disc scan later this evening. Should I move off the data and reformat the drive?

PK

It is an LTE 5000 SERIES and it got dropped from about 2.5 feet a couple of years ago and has not worked since.
It would not power up or show any sign of life. No lights or sounds.
I dug it out today to see if it was repairable. After dissambling it and finding nothing unusual I RECONNECTED the ribbon and reassembled the laptop.
Now when power cord is inserted, I get 3 or 4 beeps and the three lights light but that is all it will do. The power button seems to have no effect.
I have tried CONNECTING it to an external monitor with no change.
Does anyone have experience with this problem or any idea what might be wrong?
we will need to know what the BIOS is in the notebook in order to translate the beep/light codes.Ok, I guess it is junk since it won't boot I don't know how to determin the bios.
Thanks,the BIOS should be in your manual, PROVIDED that you still have it. you might be able to search for it via the internet as well, seeing as how you know the make of the computer. if you simply cannot find it, then i recommend a 12 gauge .Shearch on google for beep codes. Then from there it will tell you whats wrong an needs replacedQuote from: squall_01 on January 02, 2008, 05:48:44 PM

Shearch on google for beep codes. Then from there it will tell you whats wrong an needs replaced

Hey i am trying to upgrde my pc and this is the first time i have ever tried to so i am tryingto FIGURE out where the power supply plugs into the mother BOARD THANKS for any HELPTHE plug is DIFFERENT then the other ones it should be a large rectangular connector

I'm running windows XP (Dell dimension 4700) and would like to upgrade my memory. I currently have 512 mb DDR2 SDRAM at 400 MHz. I'm interested in adding 2 GB running at 667 MHz (Kingston Technology PC5300 DDR2 DIMM). Is this o.k. or possible? Does adding memory running at a different speed mess things up?
ThanksYou will have to check the specs on the MOBO, and see what kind it will support. If you can let us know what kind of Mother Board u have i am sure someone here would be able to tell u if it will work or not.your motherboard will only support up to DDR2 533mHz. you can purchase DDR2 667mHz, but it will not run at full capacity, it will run at 533mHz.

QUOTE

Does adding memory running at a different speed mess things up?

(I think I have two 256 because they do work in pairs, right?)

If I just remove the current modules and install two 1GB in two different slots then my machine should run more efficiently...

...but only at the max speed of 533 MHz and not the full 667 Mhz

Thanks Homer for your advise. I will hopefully find memory sticks/modules that run at that slower speed for 1GB.
Thanks a bunch

Hey i need to know where to plig in from my power supply to my mother boardthe pci express sata CONNECTOR 8 pin server and thats it THANKS for any helpplease use correct spelling, grammar, and punctuation. i cannot understand your post.If I UNDERSTOOD it correctly, you're asking. "Where do you find the plug on the motherboard for your 8 pin PSU connector?"

You gotta let us know what type of motherboard you're using, PLEASE specify the model and the make.

hi i have a problem on my pc. how do i solve this? when i log on to my pc it logs on then after a second it automatically log off.

i mean it GOES BACK to the LOGGING prompt.

i can work because i can't use it.

thanks!!! this THREAD should be under "microsoft windows". this is the hardware section, your hardware is not causing you to log off automatically.Quote from: homer on December 07, 2007, 06:00:47 PM

this thread should be under "microsoft windows". this is the hardware section, your hardware is not causing you to log off automatically.

post this under "microsoft windows". the forum members there will be able to help you.

Hi there, I've been looking for a solution to something that occurred at home yesterday, a cd was put in the drive, then for some reason we couldn't get it out, the external button wouldn't work. When I used the pin-hole, the drive slowly turned (I COULD hear dragging) but the door didn't open. I had to pull off the case to get it to finally come open.

That was the beginning of the problem, so we tried the usual PLACES to see what the real issue was. For some reason, the cd/dvd reader/writer isn't showing up in "My Computer". Of course, it isn't showing up in the device manager, either. The writing software's eject button didn't work telling us to install a device then try again. Just so you know, it WORKED fine until yesterday.

Since I'm seeing a bunch of other people with these types of drives dropping off their system, might there have been a problem with an "automatic" update that is causing this? It just seems to have hit too many people at the same time for it not to be. Anybody know if a solution is on the way?

I should probably tell you that it is a Dell that is two years old, and hasn't had a lot of use on the cd/dvd drive. I want to say it's a 4100, but I'm not sitting at it, so I'm not sure. It is a tower, with plenty of memory. It gets UPDATES whenever we log on to the internet, but we don't have them install automatically. If I understand correctly, an update could proceed because of some problem, it wasn't specific but it told us to reboot and try again. We did, but had the same error.

I haven't checked anywhere else, but there seems to be a high recurrance of this problem just on this site. Any assistance will be greatfully appreciated.What Dell ?
What drive and how old is it ?
If the pinhole release doesn't work properly chances are there is a physical problem with the drive as it is not power dependent.

New DVD burners start at about 35 bucks at newegg if you are in the States.Just information here: After a complete shutdown, the drive seems to be functioning properly. Don't know what caused it, and saw an awful lot of other people with seemingly similar problems with their drives. . .Guess I kinda jumped to a conclusion, though I did check out Dell after my first post, and there was another grouping of users with drive problems posted on 1-1. I'm glad it's nothing. Thanks for the help!No Problem...glad it wasn't anything.
To make sure everythings copacetic travel to Device Manager and right click the drive to make sure EVERYTHING looks OK.
Seeya around.

after i access the cmos setup and save and exit.. my computer cannot restart again... it seems to just hang there with a BLANK screen but u can hear the cpu fan moving... what could be the cause any IDEA?Depends on the changes you made while in there...

As a fail safe you can remove all power and pull the CMOS battery for 15 minutes which will RESET back to defaults.
You're learning a valuable lesson THOUGH about making changes in the BIOS...

This is my Power Supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171018 My Computer: Dell Dimension E521, AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ ~ 2.2 GHZ, 2x512mb DDR2 RAM, and 1x1gb DDR2 RAM = Total 2 GB (All DDR2 RAM at 667MHz), Nvidia 8800GT, 3 USB's in use (mouse, keyboard, printer), standard 16x DVD-RW Drive, 250GB Hard Drive @ 7200 RPM, 22 inch Westinghouse monitor, one 120mm Fan using 1.4 Volts on 12volt rail, one 80mm Fan using .14 volts on 12 volt rail.

Multiple Answers would me MUCH appreciated go here to find out.Listen to Homer.

(Does that COUNT as multiple answers?)

Use that to get a rough estimate of what the power requirements of your PC are. Don't be AFRAID to add things that you're not sure you have now or you might upgrade to in the near future. It's better to have too much power now than to get a PSU that won't supply your future needs.The eXtreme Power Supply calculator only calculates total WATTS. I know i have enough watts. I need to know if my Power supply's 12 volt rails are good enough to handle what i have for my Rig. If anyone bought the eXtreme Calculator that gives amerage. Can u help me out? ALSO, anything else i need to know about my PSU before i try out my rig.electronics do not consume voltage, they consume amperage. you will be fine with only one 120mm fan and one 80mm fan on the same rail.I know that. I want to know if my 12 volt rails on my Powersupply can handle all the amps from my computer parts.Quote from: Shoota on January 02, 2008, 08:59:01 PM

I know that. I want to know if my 12 volt rails on my Powersupply can handle all the amps from my computer parts.

Hi !

I recorded DVD as data DVD ,AFER that I can't open it in the same device ,I get this is blank DISC ,
,another COMPUTER open it.

Thanks!perhaps a problem with the DRIVE. to be sure, you should remove your DVD drive and HOOK it up to the other computer, then insert the disk and see if the other computer can read it.Did you remember to finalise the burn project ? ?
What programs were used for this ? ?

I got three new things gadgets for Xmas and not a one of them can be found on my hard drive when I plug them in. I have plugged each one into at least three different USB PORTS on my computer and I know for sure the USB ports are working. No matter what I do my computer will not bring up the new devices, I can't even find a place that shows they are ATTACHED at all. Any advice on what I can do to remedy this, I'M GOING CRAZY?

I am running WinXP IE and all the audio devices work IE I can hear audio just fine.If you connect your flash drive, does Windows give an audible sound, which indicates a USB device has been DETECTED? Does an icon appear in the system tray? no nothing happens at all however when I plug the devices in each shows that they are ready for instance ready to load music on it.Quote

I am running WinXP IE and all the audio devices work IE I can hear audio just fine

I know for sure the USB ports are working.

HOW CAN I FIND OUT WHAT DATA TYPE THE FILES ON A CD ARE WRITTEN IN?

THANKS IN ADVANCEHi TANGFIRMER, Welcome to the CH forums.
Could you please post a more detailed question, because right now it's kind of vague.
Do you want to identify the file types of files on a CD or is something about how the CD is BURNED you wish to know?
If you told us more about what it is you want to accomplish it WOULD be easier to help you.

P.S.
Please turn off your Caps Lock. Posting in all caps makes your post HARDER to read.

Hi,

I have a problem with this new IBM laptop Lenovo R61 i bought a while ago. The problem is that while it's wired-connected to the network, the LAN connection keeps on dropping on and off. EVERY now and then, the internet didn't WORK because there was no LAN connection. The way i GOT around this when it happens is that i re-new the IP address (this works sometimes) or by logging off and LOG back on again.

But this should not happen with the wired connection. I can understand if this is for the case of wireless connection.

Could anyone help me with this?

Thank you in advance What type of connection do you have? Did you contact your ISP? Maybe your modem/router is dying...

I decided to rebuild few stuff with my PC, to improve my performance in gaming, work, media etc etc.

I have no gfx card and that's kind of problem because without it, i couldn't see distanced opponents in game, setting all low on some games.

This is my mobo: http://www.biostar-usa.com/mbdetails.asp?model=P4M890-M7%20SE
My current Processor: Intel(R) Pentium(R) D CPU 3.60GHz (MIGHT get duo core soon)


For my current mobo...I think ati 3870 should work good. They're really power efficient because of a 55nm core. I'm buying 600w psu and it should be plenty good for it, and for the power they have, they're quite cheap...i think.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814241067

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16817171023

but the problem is, I'm bit confused and I'm not really good at this thing.
Would i need better processor or anything else i should look out for other than psu like 8 pins, cable, etc etc
also...what is PCI Express 2.0? should it say pci-ex2...is it same as PCI2 as my mobo said in booklet?
I have pci1, pci2, and pci-ex16...

help me out here please.

thanks in advance Quote

what is PCI Express 2.0? should it say pci-ex2...is it same as PCI2 as my mobo said in booklet?
I have pci1, pci2, and pci-ex16...

Quote

what is PCI Express 2.0? should it say pci-ex2...is it same as PCI2 as my mobo said in booklet?
I have pci1, pci2, and pci-ex16...

I am not sure about this but I will give it a go..


PCI Express 2.0 = extra usb ports
pci-ex2 = a type of graphics card or onboard
PCI2 = A self diagnostic card/onboard
pci1 = Could be ethernet/network

Would i need better processor or anything else i should look out for other than psu like 8 pins, cable, etc etc

what is PCI Express 2.0?

should it say pci-ex2

is it same as PCI2 as my mobo said in booklet?

I have pci1, pci2

Currently I have: AMD Sempron 2660+
Nvidia GeForce 7300
1.5 GB of Ram
Windows XP home edition service pack 2

So here's my problem: I've played several games on my computer, Rome Total War, WoW, Medieval 2 Total War, Command and Conquer Zero Hour and Warcraft 3... All these games randomly freeze on my computer. THe problem is my computer SHOULD be albe to HANDLE these games, WoW was running at 61 fps and all of a sudden, without warning, without lag the computer froze.

I have no idea whats causing this and even less on how to fix it, if you could give me some advice It would be greatly appreciated.the computer only hang during games?if it's still under warranty better be QUICK, it probably having issues.
Or maybe overheated?did the fan spin?try cleaning your pc.Try updating video drivers and as mentioned by kuszmania try checking OVERALL tempreture and may be video card specifically to see if it overheats, because this could be your problem.Does it LOCK up when you do anything else?

ok i have a liteon dvd writer it will load everything just fine,but when i try to play a movie it acts like it getting a scrambled signal, sound is scratchy can't see movie.. if anyone has any ideas on whats wrong would be very helpful. ThanksMore info...
What OS
What player
What type of DVD ? ? ?sorry player is samsung 18xdvdrw lightscribe, os is xp home all updates, 8800 gts 640,c2d 6300 (oc 2.88) 2 gig crucial balistic,ib9 mobo ,i'm just trying to watch regular movies nothing burntHow old is that DRIVE? Maybe some codecs missing?its a little over a year oldDid it play OK before?
What are your computer specs, mostly processor SPEED, RAM amount, and video card RAM?Along with posting the info you can DLoad and try both VLC and GOM...both FREE alternative players and see if this changes things...THANKS for the post, i'm running a c2d 6300 1.86(oc to 2.88) pny 8800gts 640,2 gig crucial ballistic 6400, wd 150 raptor(primary)250 gb hitachi(storage)500w TigerPro psuwas working fine then WHAM started screwing up againQuote

video card RAM
What player
What type of DVD ? ? ?

Along with posting the info you can DLoad and try both VLC and GOM...both FREE alternative players and see if this changes things...

I have installed a NEW DVD rw drive. It connects by SATA
I can see that my comp reads it and boot up and I can find it under DEVICE manger saying working properly.

When I OPEN to My COMPUTER where I see my hard drive it is not there.
Why is it not showing up and not responding when a disc is entered?

I have a WndsXP

I have a compaq about 4 yrs old,I moved it from one room to the other and when i plugged it back in it flashed on for a sec,then the lights on the back and front started blinking,with a ticking sound in the rear.I unplugged EVERYTHING then tried again but the same thing.So do I just need a new power supply?ThanksYou got it

To be sure COMPLETELY, you may want to use other computers at home and swap the PSU see if that will start it up.ok,thanks alot,I had an old computer but it didint have enough wires,It did HOWEVER turn on the fan,which the other psu did not power.Again thanks Before you go out and buy one borrow one from a friend that has the same wattage or greater and swap it in there...
It may just be that SOMETHING came loose in the move.
Re-check all connections and re-seat the RAM and any addon cards.

Hey guys! I purchased a 500 GB external hard drive and was wondering does it have to be the media hard drive to be able to connect it to modern TVs with USB ports?

I have a Comstar 500 GB hard drive, which looks exactly like this except larger capacity:



[file cleanup - saving space - ATTACHMENT deleted by admin]Quote from: ultimatum on January 03, 2008, 07:04:16 PM

I purchased a 500 GB external hard drive and was wondering does it have to be the media hard drive to be able to connect it to modern TVs with USB ports?

check the tv manual i guess?

I am currently on my laptop because my video card fried, some of you might of read my other posts. I don't have adobe acrobat on the laptop yet so I couldn't open the manual for the TV,

our electricity went off whilst the pc was running and now it gets to the safe mode screen and no matter what option we select it still wont start.i've tried to use a recovery disc for xp but to no EFFECT. i am stuck so any help given would be grateful
Do you mean that you cannot even reinstall? Please describe what happens when you TRY recovery mode.i start the pc and it goes straight to the safe mode screen where you get different options on how you would like to start , i tried each option ie start windows normally or start windows in safe mode . and the pc goes to the windows log screen as if its going to start but then it goes back to the safe screen. IVE put an xp recovery disc in and asked it to boot from CD but it just does the same thing and goes back to the safe screenRemove the CD, re-boot and choose the first option which is strictly safe mode...give it time and let it run til it loads...

I was wondering:
How good is a software SIDE RAID COMPARED to a HARDWARE side? I dont have the ability to do a hardware side RAID, HOWEVER, I have heard that Linux is capable of a software side RAID.

How WELL does the software side RAID work in the ways of speed and integrity?

..I am new to doing PC repairs,and am wondering if there is a way to format my C drive and still keep the OS system,while removing all other programs...
I am just curious as to if this can be done,and if how? THANKS...No.
You cannot selectively format a drive.
Even a REPAIR install WOULD leave programs intact so that wouldn't WORK either.

The best that can be done is un-installing the apps themselves then using a cleaner such as CCleaner to get rid of any remnants followed up by a good diskclean/defrag SESSION...

I have an old AMD K6 II that i use to store music on,i would like to add a THIRD drive..Would anyone be able to POST the exact steps i take to do this,including slave settings ETC etc...
ThanksDave666, there are a number of options depending on the available resources of your computer.it is unlikely that there is space available in the case for a 3rd internal plus i am unaware of a ribbon hdd cable that will have 3 connections on it. therefore you may wish to concider an external hdd. they have gotten a lot cheaper and are now available in obscene sizes. Again as an option if it is only music files that you want to store and you have usb ports portable flash drives are available At least at 8GB and higher which will store tons of music files and allow you the benefit of portability.good luck, truenorthThanks true north!....if i just replace the existing second(E) drive with another..I assume i just put the new one in exactly as the old one was set up?? Thanks
Or you can add a PCI /IDE card allowing you to add up to 4 more IDE devices...
Another option as well would be to see if that MBoard has any SATA connectors...most newer ones do.

We RECENTLY GOT a new printer at work, a Konica Minolta mc7450 PS and we're having trouble because the menu for the properties for that SPECIFIC printer is in Spanish. Any idea how to change the LANGUAGE? All of our other printers are in English and we have no clue why this one isn't.

*the language for the menu on the actual printer is English. it's only Spanish on the computer.Quote

the language for the menu on the actual printer is English. it's only Spanish on the computer.

I haven't been able to find an answer to my question, so hopefully you guys can help. Whenever I burn a DVD or CD, my computer slows down (every movement becomes choppy), and it TAKES almost 3 times as long to burn discs (it took over 30 minutes to burn a CD when the speed was supposed to be at 48x). I figured it was a problem with my burner (An ASUS IDE), so I switched to a SATA Samsung burner. Unfortunately, I'm still having this problem. I have run scandisk, virus SCANS, & spyware scans, and have come up with nothing. Has anyone else encountered this problem? If so, How can it be fixed?How much RAM?
What Operating System?
Are you burning large files to the disk?WINDOWS XP
1 gig of ram
p4 3.4 ghzand the file size doesn't really matter, I have this problem weather I'm burning small music files or large DVD files.Hmmm... So it's not a problem with your processor or your RAM or OS.

Have you scanned for viruses and malware in safe mode?
Are the drivers up-to-date?What burning program ? ?
How many apps are on in the tray area ? ?
What brand of media ? ?im using nero 7 & DVD Fab Platinum

around 5 icons

memorex dvds

verbatam cds.

its what i normally use, that why im confused that all of the sudden this started happeningAre both burners on IDE2 ? ?
Sounds like they may have dropped into PIO mode which is the slowest.
Although this usually happens to hard drives it can happen on optical drives as well
To check it go to Gontrol Panel/System/Hardware/Device Manager...
Right click the Secondary IDE Channel and select Properties.
It should be set to UDMA if present or DMA under advanced.My ASUS was IDE, the Samsung is SATA, and its the only one I have installed right now. I am also using a SATA hard drive as a backup for my music and videos. my primary hard drive is still IDE. I checked the primary and secondary IDE channels. they're both set to DMA (If available). The Primary however shows that it is still on PIO mode even though the setting is set to DMA (If available). As i suspected. The easy fix for this is to return to Device Manager and right click the Primary IDE channel and select Remove or un-install...
You will recieve a warning message...ignore it.
Re-boot the machine, let it completely finish loading everything and then travel back to Device Manager. It should now show the Primary IDE channel back in DMA mode. If not Post back and we'll have to do some editing in the registry.

The most common cause of this is disk errors. Have you been getting any re-boots and or BSOD's? ?
If so you should run chkdsk /r on that IDE drive ASAP.

Let us know...that did it. everything is burning smoothly and speedy again. Thanks a lot for your help! You're more than Welcome, BILLY...stop by anytime.

Meantime make sure you DLoad and run those diagnostics form the HDD manuf. site...

Hi, I have just built my computer with the FOLLOWING parts from ebuyer:


Corsair 2GB DDR2 667MHz/PC2-5400 Memory CL5 Lifetime Warranty
Arctic Cooling AC-FRZ-7P Freezer 7 Pro Socket 775 Processor Cooler
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Energy Efficient 95W edition Socket 775 (2.40GHz) G0 Stepping L2 8MB Cache OEM Processor
Point Of View 8400GS 256MB GDDR2 DVI VGA HDCP ready PCI-E Graphics Card
LiteOn DH-20A4P-21C 20X DVD±RW/DL/RAM Black Bare Drive - OEM
ASUS P5K AiLifestyle Series iP35 Socket 775 eSATA 8channel Audio ATX Motherboard
Casecom Black Midi Tower Case With Front Panel LCD - No PSU
Scythe Kama-Meter Multifunction Fan Controller - 5.25" Bay
Samsung SpinPoint HD501LJ 500GB SATAII Hard Drive 16MB Cache - OEM
Sumvision 400W 20+4pin 80mm Fan PSU - With 1x SATA, ATX12V Connector - Retail Boxed

I try pressing the power button and nothing happens, there is a green light on the mobo but thats it, both power connectors are in, I have tried takening them out and putting them in, and tried removing the graphics card.

No fans start either, what could be wrong?

I have tried using a screw driver to start the computer, incase of a problem with the switchIf the power button doesnt work at the front of the case, verify that its cable is plugged into the correct "berg stix" location ( gold PINS ) Most newer motherboards have color coded berg stix Red, Blue, Green, Orange, Black ... to make plugging the correct cable into the correct setting on the berg stix on the motherboard.

Green led, means that it is powered, but not acknowledging the soft power boot function. The soft power button plugge dinto the wrong berg stix will do this!!

DaveHi, Im not sure what you mean by "berg stix" but it is in the correct socket in the mobo and I did SAY I have tried with a screw driver as well.

I have posted this on another forum, and most people think its a FAULTY PSU, so I was wondering what you guys think.

Any one know where to GET diagrams of differnt HARDWARE pecies in the PC like a harddrive layout and how data is read an such. I needed it for collage studylookup "harddrive schematics" on google.schematics would TELL me how to make a harddrive. I want to know about how the data gets transfer from the floppy to the ram an the CPU and back out. Part layouts inside the PC like theres the MAGNET inside the harddrive not something that's illegaltry howstuffworks.com. They have GREAT guides on how the different parts of a computer works.

Hi!

A friend bought a TOSHIBA notebook recently that does not have a wireless driver installed.
She told me that the model is Toshiba Satellite Pro, the os is Winxp, and the processor type is Centrino Duo. It also has a fingerprint sensor.
I'm trying to see which wifi driver i should download for it at the Toshiba support WEBSITE. Is it ok if I install
'Intel Wireless LAN Driverfor Windows XP (v11.1.0.100.XP; 06-26-2007; ?.93M)' for the Satellite Pro A200-EZ2204X ?

We don't know the full model name of the notebook, so we're thinking that as long as the driver is for a Toshiba Satellite Pro, it will work. Is this possible?You will really need to find the specific model number. There is a lot of Satellite Pros and I can guarantee you they don't use the same wireless NIC. The model number is usually printed on the bottom of the laptop.

If you can't find the model number then you can try Everest or Belarc. They might be ABLE to identify what wirelss NIC is installed in the computer.


Thanx deerpark,

That really helped! Under the notebook, i found that the model was Toshiba Satellite Pro U200 You can find your driver here.

You'll need to use Balarc or Everest to determine which of the wireless drivers you need, Intel or Atheros, as there are THREE drivers for Wi-Fi listed on the page.

NOTE: I hope you're using Vista, because for the U200, there are only Vista drivers available from Toshiba.Thank again quaxo!

I FOLLOWED the link & found a wifi driver for winxp in the next pages. I think I'll download an intel driver bse the processor in the notebook is Intel Centrino Duo. It doesn't matter what the processor is. The wireless hardware could be made by anyone. Of course, if you try to install the Intel driver and it isn't an Intel wireless ADAPTOR, it might just tell you the hardware isn't there. Then you could try the Atheros driver.

I just bought a new WEBCAM, it's a Philips portable one. I'm running my laptop on Vista.

For some reason, my cam doesn't work on any programs I try. I've tried skype, msn, AIM, even stickam. It doesn't show up, just a black screen, anywhere but the actual webcam's program. It doesn't even recognize that I have it plugged in. I installed all the software, but it still doesn't work.

Why? and how can I fix it?Have you tried it on another PC to know that the cam is working correctly? This way you know its the PC or the Camera?

DaveThe cam is working right because when I pull up the program it came with it has a preview screen and everything shows up fine on it. Just not on any other programs.sounds like you need a codec for it to work with other appsWhich Philips MODEL is this?

Did you install the drivers before you plugged the cam in or after?

I have been to Crucial and about every other website trying to locate RAM for my Toshiba A65. All they offer is the, what I call the auxiliary ram. I am looking for the ram that is mounted on the MOTHERBOARD. This is the ram that Toshiba lists as non replaceable. I have read about other people that replaced this ram and did not have to replace the motherboard. My problem is locating the ram. It is manufactured by Hynix, Korea, and the number is HY5DU121622AT-J and it has 66 pins. I put this number in Google and located a bunch of large distribution houses that require a minimum order of 8 thousand. I only need 8. Any HELP would be appreciated.Have you tried the below link ?

http://www.batescomponents.com/catalog/0894/0894-35.htmlThanks street1. I had checked them out earlier. When I got your post, I went back to them and requested a quote. This is what I got:

We have a $250.00 minimum order requirement.
Please no Brokers and / or Resellers

Thanks again, I will keep looking. I will have to find it on-line. I gave up looking in my HOMETOWN. I went to one shop and ASKED. I had to explain what a motherboard was. I did not stay long.

I recently purchased a used 17" ViewSonic Flat Panel Monitor. I have been swamped with different ideas on how best to keep it clean, everything from alcohol-free premoistened wipes to using a soft, damp cloth. There are some smudges on the monitor, possibly fingerprints, SINCE my friend had used it for three months PREVIOUSLY. I tried the alcohol-free premoistened wipes but they do next to nothing to remove smudges. The monitor seems to be made of glass. Any suggestions as to what I should use to clean the monitor, especially with smudges? Thank you very much.

jandal I would just use a warm, damp cloth. That should be ENOUGH to remove fingerprints and smudges. If you're sure the front of the monitor is glass, then a window cleaner LIKE Windex should work wonders.
But, if you're at all unsure whether it is glass, don't use it, or you'll wreck the screen.
A warm damp cloth should work on most screens, and you can buy proper cleaning wipes from certain places.
I remember I got a pack of 100 for about £2, but the place I got them from doesn't stock them any more.
But while they lasted, they were good.

i took of floppy DISKS drive and now the PC show me what i have a PROBLEM i have been trying connect again and the problem is there yet, SOMBODY can help me please. THANK you I'm not really sure I understand you post but here goes...
You removed your floppy drive from your computer, CORRECT?
After you did this the computer gave you an error? What does this error say and where are you getting it?
Quote from: mdh on January 10, 2008, 12:42:31 PM

i have been trying connect again and the problem is there yet

Hey everybody, I recently got 2 computers from a local computer store. They were cheap and on the older side of machines. When I first plugged them in they worked fine then after a couple days of use things started happening and now both dont work.

Computer 1: Its a AMD Athlon 2000+ computer, When I plug it in I get a continuous beep that lasts about 2 seconds, stop and then repeats. I opened it up and removed everything until it was just the motherboard, all cards, ide cables and ram was removed. It still did the beeps, Im guessing the motherboard failed. Is this correct? I'd like to know before replacing it.

Computer 2: This one is a Intel 1.1ghz celeron I believe but not CERTAIN, It worked great the first few days then suddenly froze one day. I reset it and NOTHING happened, The computer fans start to spin but nothing appears on the monitor and no beeps at all. I again removed everything down to its barebones and same thing, nothing at all happens cept it acts like its turning on. I have no idea whats wrong with this one.

Any help is greatly appreciated, Thank you.#1 - this usually indicates bad RAM. Did you reseat the RAM & try again?

#2 - did you also disconnect the power to all the PERIPHERALS?

Alan <>< Computer 1: Yes I pulled out the ram and placed it BACK in nicely, same problem.

Computer 2: The only thing I had plugged into the motherboard was the main power cord and 2 other little cords, 1 is for the power button 1 for the cpu fan.

Im lost. Imma try some fresh ram computer 1 and post my results, any further help is great.Alright I got my AMD Machine working, it was badly seated ram. Weird I thought I did that but none the less thanks for the help on that.

Anybody know why my second machine is acting up? I push the power button and can hear the fans spin up but nothing appears on the screen and no beeps. Someone give me tips to diagnose this problem so we can narrow it down. I hope its not a bad mobo.Try and swap in a known working PSU of the same or greater wattage on Beast #2 and see if this corrects things...

Why does my color ink get low when I ONLY print in black ink, every time?The coloured ink cartridges will get plugged up from little or no use...the printer will react as if they are empty. Remove the cartridge & clean gently with a little rubbing alcohol & a Q-tip around where they fit in.
I print a colourful picture once in a while if I have only been using the black. Hope this helps.Hey Popplebonk,

I have a HP printer and no colour cartridge, just the black one. It gives me that message all the time. It wants you to use their (OverExpensive) colour cartridge. As far as I can see it is a build-in message, and no way of getting rid of it. LAST week I got a refill on the Black one, and now it shows a shaded cartridge Icon with the message "low on Ink", and the inklevel a couple of MM HIGH. I figure (and the Refill person and others say so) that somehow HP has a little usage counter inside and also it detects a refill, therefor the shaded Icon. Unfortunately, my printer refuses to print anything if any of the cartridges are deemed "empty."

I'll try cleaning them and see what happens. Thanks.Maybe this is silly, but...do you actually have a black ink cartridge installed?
If so, what level is it being reported at?
Is only your color getting low or are both getting low?
If you take out the color cartridge and run a test print, is it successful?
Have you checked your printer settings? You can sometimes set it to print with only color ink or only black ink or both.

It's quite possible that your color cartridge is getting low simply because your printer is using it to print black text/images. And when color is used to print black objects, it gets drained rather quickly.

It might help to know your OS and the make/model of your printer.Yes, I have a black ink cartridge installed. Right now it's about half full. The color ink is being reported at "less than 20% remaining" for all three colors. I always CHOOSE "black ink only" when I print.

I have an EPSON Stylus CX4600, and I'm running Windows XP. I cannot run a test print if a cartridge is removed. If any of the cartridges are removed, it will not print at all..... it will MERELY alert me that a cartridge is missing or empty, and will not resume printing until the cartridge is replaced. Based on the way your printer operates, I was going to suggest checking to make sure you have the latest drivers...
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/support/supDetail.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&oid=41663&infoType=Downloads

However, after looking through the FAQ's, this seems to be normal behavior...
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/support/supDetail.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&infoType=FAQ&oid=41663&prodoid=46048266&foid=45311

http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/support/supDetail.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&infoType=FAQ&oid=41663&prodoid=46048266&foid=45312

If you ask me, this seems silly and wasteful. There doesn't really seem to be any way around this. If your color is running out at an abnormaly quick rate, then it might be worth contacting the Epson support. Otherwise, I'm not so sure there's anything you can do besides buying a new printer. And personally, I think that wouldn't be a bad idea. Some new printers can be a bit pricey, but if you get one that isn't going to waste ink, it'll be cheaper in the long run.

Probably a stupid question but I am going to have to have a computer repaired. There is personal information on this computer and I really don't want people having ACCESS to the banking information. The computer does not work at all. Is there a way to completely delete everything on the hard drive besides destroying it and getting another? It's not a stupid question at all. Lots of folks, indeed most, have 'stuff' on there computer that no one best find out EXISTS
However, the only way to get rid of it is to erase the entire drive and you don't want to do that. If it's not a huge file with loads of history, BACK it up onto a portable memory insert - then delete the file and hope for the best. Otherwise, just hope it's a reputable dealer and that they don't have purient and/or voyeuristic tendencies. Good luckThe person who responded is semi correct,if you wish to PERMANETLY erase data you have to do more than format,you require a utility that overwrites your HD,at least 6 times,making it all but IMPOSSIBLE to recover any data.http://www.killdisk.com/http://sourceforge.net/projects/eraser/DBAN is another great (and free) choice. It has more thorough erase options than the free version of Killdisk.I just wonder what the IT people are going to say when you hand them an empty machine....

this computer wouldnot TURN on so i put a NEW power supply in that did not fix it then i put a new mother in. then it came on but nothing came on the monitor. so we put a video card in it same thing nothing on the screen all wires RAM cd-rom floppy all new wires. please helpHave you tried ANOTHER monitor or tested the monitor on another computer?
What type of machine is this ?
What flavor of Windows ?
Are you saying you REPLACED the MBoard ?

The more details you provide the quicker a solution can be worked out...

Hi, I recently had to wipe my computer, removing partitions, etc.

Using the CD suppplied I reinstalled microsoft XP. And installed a new version of microsoft office 2007.

My problem is this: some of the buttons on my key board have changed place. For example to get the @ symbol I now have to press shift and the 2 button, even though according to the markings on my keyboard this should be ". Also my alt gr button no longer functions as alt gr - QUITE fustrating as I live in Ireland and use the euro sign alot.

Have I used the wrong driver for the keyboard?? Is it a problem with office 2007??

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance
SeanIt depends what keyboard layout you want.

US keyboard:


UK keyboard:
Yes what Broni said...
In order to change the layout goto the control panel and double click Regional and Language Options.
Select the Languages tab and press Details....
Press the Add... button and select your Input Language and Keyboard Layout. If the keyboard was bought in Ireland I believe the correct settings would be English (Ireland) and Irish respectively.
After you've installed a new input language you can Remove the existing. You may need to REBOOT in order to complete the removal.


To change it: http://www.microsoft.com/globaldev/drintl/faqs/kbdfaq.mspxBroni and Deerpark MANY thanks

I had tried to look up microsoft faq's but obviously my search critera was way off.

I have remedied the the keyboard layout following the above instructions and all is WORKING well.

Many Thanks

SeanYou're welcome

Are there PDAs that MANAGE the basics like contacts and calendars? I don't want to send emails from it but wouldn't mind being able to download text emails for reference. The only models I can find that work with Outlook 2007 do music, VIDEO - stuff I don't NEED, and they're pricey. Appreciate any THOUGHTS.

Wow this Forum just deleted my post so im shortening....

I've got a GM5088 Gateway peice of crap and I'm trying to get a BFG Tech GEFORCE 8600 PCI-X card to work in it. I'm getting black screen, No BIOS when I connect to the new card. The onboard works fine MIND you. I tried REPLACING the card, no difference. ALSO tried a PNY card before this one, it worked for 3 hours and black screened. Changed the Power Supply to 450W...no luck. I'm not seeing anywhere in the BIOS to disable onboard video or anything regarding PCI-X. The card is getting power (fan is spinning on powerup), but I get no beeps/flashes/video. Have called BFG and Gateway and they are useless. Only seen 1 forum post on the issue and it wasn't helpful. Someone navigate me through this Gateway *censored*.

after pushing the on button - the computer begins to start -but after about 3 seconds - SHUTS down

help
With what little information is PROVIDED, it sounds like a POWER SUPPLY failure.

Would you happen to have another WORKING power supply (even from another computer) that you could try?

I found an old 2.5" drive and bought a new enclosure for it since the old one seemed to have crapped out. After putting it together and plugging it into my VISTA system, the drivers installed AUTOMATICALLY. The only problem is that my computer thinks it's a dvd drive. I also tried it in my XP system and I got the same problem. It's a Toshiba MK4019GAX 40GB. The only EXPLANATION I can think of is that perhaps it was formatted for a different OS, making it unreadable. Can anyone explain this to me?Your suspicions are well founded...the only reason it would be seen that way is if it was being used as a DVD emulator...IE Daemon TOOLS or some other program.
Have you tried formatting it ? ?I can't find any option to format it because it's recognized as a DVD drive. It's really PUZZLING. I would try to copy and paste some files to the drive to see if they'd write, but I don't want to corrupt any deleted files.Quote

but I don't want to corrupt any deleted files.