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I was clearing BIOS password by taking out the CMOS BATTERY. After that it seems that only processor is recognized,because next line is similar to this:

or something like this, i don't know for sure.
What does it mean? Did i destroy my MOTHERBOARD or there is a way for fixing that???how lond did you REMOVE the cmos battery for........you could have cleared the bios password.....in the bios setup screen........if you knew the password that is....

when starting (notebook)
Show CTRL key holding down when is notStuck keyboard Ctrl key.Is not stuckBad contact.Good contact.
The key may LOOK & feel right but the contact underneath may still be closed.
Give us the make & model, we may be able to get some pictures (ya gotta LOVE pictures) of what goes on under there.

I guess I deserved the hairball comment. I have a very large server tower with seven fans operated on there on power supply conpletely independent and isolated from the system power supply, including ground connections. I have a filter unit positioned at the air intake. Internal temp, video and SOUND card, and CPU fan controlled by an Enermax 2x2 CLIMATE Controller with 4 channel temperature, fan speed, and overtemp monitoring. My cat hair problem consists only at the filter. As you can guess, I have alot of extra WIRING with the Enermax, Hard-drive speed and sound controller, and the neon lights that that are mounted in my first three, 5 and a quarter slots, which are on there on power supply and isolated. Internal temp has never been a problem. I guess I was hoping to get some advice before disconnecting everything to get at the motherboard, or buying a power supply. I appreciate your time and sense of humor. I've had my hands on everything associated with the inside of my computer. In your opinion, do you think I should try a new power supply before disconnecting everything and looking at the motherboard. I would hope that it is the power supply or the CPU that I could change out easily, rather than it be the main BOARD. What do you think. Thanks again!!!electricguru... I'd be starting with the psu ........hopefully thats the cause ....


dl65

I have just installed ANOTHER stick of DDR ram to my system but it all doesnt show up, there is 256 missing! I have 1280 in all but only 1024 shows up? I have 2 512 sticks and 1 256 stick, i know that they all work and are all fully pushed in. My mother board is a 845 pe and it will accept up to 2 GB. All of the sticks are ddr 400 and the mother board will only accept up to ddr 333 will this be the case?
                                            CheersRefer to your mainboard manual. It will tell you in what QUANTITIES you can install new RAM.

Before running a game, who do i find out how much memory i have. and how do i FREE the memory up. also how do i SWITCH virtaul memory of.

                                  ThanksGo to your control panel and double-click on "system".

In the "general" tab, look under where it says "computer" and it should tell you how much RAM you have.Click on Start -> Run... In the run box type  dxdiag   ... Press enter... You MAY see a small gray box display... Just click no on that for now... You should now see a large gray box display... Your RAM is listen on that page...

[glb]Flame[/glb]Flame, I never see this small grey box you speak of?
What is it, what does it say?It talks about digital signing for drivers, etc.... Enable, or not...

[glb]Flame[/glb]OK, I have a little white unticked checkbox that says...
'Check for WHQL Digital Signatures'
I guess that's why I don't see it.Yep. That's why. You said no once before...

[glb]Flame[/glb]You do not want to disable virtual memory.

I have an e-machines T2865

Well my computer is on the fritz. Let's start from the beginning. There were times when the old "blue screen of death" would pop up. It did it quite a bit. But it only usually happened when typing something. It also usually only happened while online. So I thought it was a bug but after trying various virus and trojan programs I FOUND nothing. i asked someone online about it and they suggested it was a hardware problem. Most likely dust and dirt clogging everything up. Being a stupid moron, I didn't bother to clean it (too lazy. Stupid excuse isn't it?). It did this for some time. i'd restart and the computer would be fine until sometime later it'd pop up again.

Anyway, to my current problem, it recently started shutting down by itself. First the ccapp or whatever would stop responding. I think that's a norton antivirus program or something. Then afterwards it'd just shut down. i tried starting it up but it didn't at first. After about 20 minutes it'd start up and go into my account only to shut down just like before. Now it won't start at all. I unplugged it and plugged it back in. it started... but nothing showed up on the MONITOR. After shutting it down again, the worst happened. Now whenever I plug it in, it seems to start up (without pushing a button) and the yellow blinking light stays on. The blue light that usually is on around the power button doesn't light up even though it seems like it's on. Just recently, I cleaned it out and there was a crap load of dust in there. it still didn't help the current problem. I suppose I'm too late?

Is there anything I can do to fix this problem?Have you removed excessive dust?Yeah. I used a can of compressed air and it did the trick. There was a massive amount of dust in there. It's all cleaned out now but it still won't work.Perhaps overheating has caused system components to become damaged beyond repair. I suggest you inspect the system case for signs of burned components.boot in into safe mode f8 key.........disconnect from the net........well does it......if so you may have this
msblaster/sasser worm......>>http://www.emachines.com/support/product_support.html?cat=desktop&subcat=T-Series&model=T2865  the bsod .....have you added a new keyboard mouse??I can't even turn it on. It just comes on by itself and that yellow light stays on whenever I plug it in. Nothing comes up on the monitor. I push the button and nothing happens. I'll try unplugging the phone cord and holding F8 when i plug it in but I don't think that will work. But thanks for the help anyways. Any more would be greatly appreciated.Have you checked the board......like the capsitors///leaning over....burnt marks on pcb....or tracking....held up to the light reveals this.. do you have another hard drive you can  BUNG in.......to see if it boots......to WIN....overheating.....?amd?+dust...we will see.I am sorta having the same problem. When i press the power botton it does not come on at all no BIOS no nothing but last night it did come on after awile it was like 30min or something. The mother board power light is on and i have checked the board for any visable problems and i found none. i sorta had the same problem when i first put it together but it would come on after 10 or 20 seconds. At first i thought it was the CPU because it was pretty hot in my room and the computer was on. so i checked the cpu and therewas no burnmarks and the heatsync gel wasn't dry and flaky. so i too would like some suggestions

So for the longest time, I've had this weird-*censored* thing going on with my hard drives.

The first DRIVE that came with my computer was a Seagate Barracuda 7200.7. It's been great.

About six months ago, I picked up another hard drive, a Maxtor Diamondmax 16.

The two drives hate each other.

Seriously. If the Barracuda is on Master and the Maxtor on Slave, I get an N**** (should have written it down...) not found error immediately upon turning the computer on. I don't even get as far as the BIOS prompts.

If I put them both on Cable Select, the same thing happens. I finally wound up slaving the Maxtor off my DVD-RW, and that sort of worked. Well, it flat-out worked. I kept an old 20GB hard drive and slaved it off the Seagate. That worked too.

But now with a computer running off a rowing machine downstairs, I wanted that old 20G drive (Western Digital, just to make sure I'm hitting all the bases) down there to stick MP3s on. So it's no longer slaved off the original Seagate drive.

And I wanted to use that free IDE spot to run a DVD-ROM I have but am not using.

Unfortunately, the IDE cable that goes to my DVD-RW is the only one that could also reach the DVD-ROM, but it is needed to slave the Maxtor.

Or rather it was. Now that there's no slave on the Seagate, the Maxtor can't be used ANYWHERE on either IDE cable or the SYSTEM won't get past the first stages of startup.

The computer is working right now because I've unplugged the Maxtor drive entirely. To make things SLIGHTLY more annoying, since the Maxtor's Slave jumper setting is no jumper, I've managed to lose the freakin' jumper PIN at some point along the way.

I can't figure out why the Maxtor and Seagate won't get along. Does ANYBODY in the forum have any ideas on how to resolve this?  double ide cable... check the bios settings??.....and maxtor in my option has not got a good track recordI use a 80GB Maxtor 7200RPM 8MB cache as Master and a 30GB 5200RPM Seagate. I do not experience any type of difficulties with either Hard Disk Drives.

Have you tried to manually configure the Hard Disk Drives in the BIOS?

Can anyone tell how to remove the HEAT sink from the chip without damage to the chip, When I have tried to do this the chip comes away with the heat ssink and in one case bent the pins. THANKS
undo the metal straps that hold it. the cpu fan will COME with it.....and maybe the cpu.......lift it upright......the cpu should not come with....UNLESS *the side straps *are damaged.....*plastic clips..*...>>infohttp://www.7volts.com/silversink.htmWhen I lift the heat sink off the chip comes with it did try to lift it straight up but some of the outer pins got bentare the straps damaged.......these hold the cpu in place on the board?you could if you are careful use a razor blade to SEPARATE the paste from the heatsink .....to...the cpu ......oer leave the heatsinl attacch to the cpu.....just buy another heatsink.....this maybe better if installing a new cpu ?/ Quote

Can anyone tell how to remove the heat sink from the chip without damage to the chip, When I have tried to do this the chip comes away with the heat ssink and in one case bent the pins. Thanks

I have just built a new pc inc

Abit AV8 3rd eye mobo
Amd 64 3200+
Seagate 200gb sata
Ati radeon 9600
Pioneer dvd-rom
corsair value SELECT 1gb (2x512) pc3200
Hiper 425w power supply.

After I got it all togetherm i tried the power and the mobo was getting power because the uguru display on the mobo was working. When i hit the power button the cpu fan turns about 3 revolutions, the small led on the mobo flashes and it all stops again

The uguru display runs 8.3 then 9.c and 9.f
I also hear one longish beep and one short beep.

Any help greatly appreciated..What type of BIOS?I don't know what you mean about the graphics card in another port? could you explain please.

It's an AWARD bios and after a bit more delving the error code is 87 Net PC: Sysid STRUCTURE

Bearing in mind this is on the display on the motherboard, my monitor is not even getting as far as waking before the mobo forces power down,

but I am still really lost...have you played with jumpers on the mobo (1) i would take out the CMOS battery.....for five mins.......and reinsert it(2) have you applied thermal paste to the cpu(3) i would load the mobo boot floppy and try again......some think you have over looked??patience is the KEY to all things...Okay, starting to lose hair now...

I have reset CMOS, re-pasted cpu+heatsink, re-seated graphics card, tried different card, removed all drives and just left graphics card and ram...

and still nothing.

Something I am not sure of - this is all occurring when I have the 20 pin power plug and the 4 pin power plug connected.

If I remove the 4 pin plug the fans actually start and the count on the uguru clock reaches 87 then it powers down (about 4 seconds) and I hear one long beep and three short beeps.

code 87 is Net pc:SYSID structure if this helps...

I am new to this but am totally out of ideas, please helphttp://www.abit-usa.com/compatibility/seems strange that its thorowing up p4......and not amd cpu....?check post codes>>>>http://bioscentral.com/postcodes/awardbios.htmYour mobo:  http://www.abit-usa.com/products/mb/techspec.php?categories=1&model=201

Bad RAM?
http://www.abit.com.tw/test_report/AV8_Series/memory.phpProblem Solved, when I plugged in the 20 pin power plug for the motherboard, there was a breakaway 4pin plug on the same lead. I being foolish assumed that this was the 4 pin plug required for the 4 pin power port nearby.

It was as I had resorted to totally stripping out the case that I cut the cable tie I had wrapped around all the spare cables from the PSU that I noticed a seperate single 4pin plug.  Surely not I thought but it was worth a try, and voila, here I am writing through my new and WORKING first time build.

Thanks people for all the help, and the inclusion of the word PATIENCE.....good .....it can fox people the psu......looks like spaggetti junction.......now look after it....... it nearly always something thats been overlocked....in haste to get it running.....An ode TIME SPENT IS TIME SAVED..you will remember it......

I have a laptop and it dosn't seem to be detecting its own USB port. No matter what USB appliance I plug into it it dosn't detect it. I tried getting into the laptops BIOS to see what it says but I can't seem to be able to get into it. Typcially on a PC it says "press f2 to enter setup" when you turn it on but this laptop seems not to. Pushing f1 or f2 while its turning on brings me to a black SCREEN that asks me if i want to START windows in safe mode, NORMALLY, etc...

Any help is GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks in advance.how old is this laptop.........what make is it.....start pc.....in safe mode.......now right-click on the my computer icon<>anway......now click properties .....now click the device manager<>. for winxp users click manage instead of properties>> then click device manager>......are there any yellow exclaimation marks......near the usb host controllers......you can also try hitting delete at boot to get into biosK thx guys for your help thus far(i hope this message bumps the topic to the top)

I got into the device manager and it had a driver for the USB but it said it wasn't working. Ever since I installed windows XP professional on it the USB hasn't worked. I guess, basically, I need help finding a driver that will make my USB port work.
The laptop is a toshiba satelite pro 460CDT.

Thx alot guys I really appreciate your help http://www.toshiba.com/taisnpd/support/downloads.htmlTo enter the BIOS on Toshiba Laptops you need to press F2 and then quickly press delete if I recall correctly.Merlin_2, I tried that link you gave me but it seems it only gives drivers for Toshiba's modems : /

It really aggrivates me how Toshiba dosn't have their older product's driver's on their own web-site.

If anyone knows of any driver warehouse sites, PLEASE don't refrain from posting them here
Thx.http://list.driverguide.com/list/company1066/index.html

i do have a toshiba drivers disk........which also contains manuals...which i will send to you...if you interested.......leave a message.....<not in the forums.......??

how do i change the CHANNEL on my linksys wireless router? it is a linksys wrt54g.No wireless CONNECTION to the WRT54G

Sorry for asking such a basic question but, I have replaced my video card with a newer one.  The PC still shows the old one as being installed along with the original drivers and the display is in a very basic mode.
Should I uninstal all the old setting/drivers for the video card then INSTALL the new drivers?
When I tried to run the setup Cd it showed nothing on the disk yet on my old PC I can see drivers etc.
MUST admit I'm very confused.
Any advice appreciated.
My Pc spec is
CPU AMD Athlon XP 3200+
512 DDR
80Gb HDD
New Vidoe Card Radeon 9200Atlantis 256Mb
DVD-RW
O/S Windows XP Pro Quote

Should I uninstal all the old setting/drivers for the video card then install the new drivers?  

I own an NVidia GeForce4 MX 4000. Lately WHENEVER I start up my new computer and monitor, the screen shows either DIFFERENT colored BLOCKS or yellow blocks with the text behind them. I have to reboot about 10 times in order to get the monitor to start properly.

I've put on the newest drivers already and think it may be the video card. Any thoughts?

Thank you in advance.Have you tried another monitor to make sure?

[glb]Flame[/glb]Yes, I tried my old monitor and got the same results.Do you have wirus/worm protection? When did this start happening? Did you make any changes to your system before this happened?

[glb]Flame[/glb]try adjusting monitor.....colour settings......or go to the display icon in the CONTROL.....panel.....settings...advanc ed...adapter...performanceYes I tried other monitor settings and I am well protected from viruses and the like. I haven't made any changes to my system.

This started happening several months ago with my old system and monitor. I have a new system and monitor, with the same thing happening.

Any other thoughts?

Neil  does seems to point to a graphics card problem......does you mob support your graphics card??What are your system temperatures when the graphical corruption occurs?Thanks for the help. Yes, my mob handles the card and this occurs just when I startup. So the temp is at a minimum.

NeilHave you tried uninstalling current drivers and reinstalling updated ones?Yes I have.

Neilif you have the drivers for your monitor......UNINSTALL it....in the device manager.......and reboot.....now shutdown again.....now attach the monitor.....and load the drivers for it............does this problem happen in safe mode??try it first......The drivers did not come as a seperate disc. I tried what you suggested, it didn't help. It also happens intermittantly. Any other ideas?

Neilmore info on system.......ram??? etc.....download sisoft sandra and do a diagnostics  check..........you could also type dxdiag in the run box......what does it report if anything......

Sometimes when I am playing lets say Warcraft III FT or Counter Strike Source, the sound sometimes just turns off or something. Because I get no sound at all! But then when I QUIT the game I get my sound back. So I don't know what kind of problem this iS!Make sure your sound, video drivers and direct X  are up to date. Check on the GAMES website for fixes and patches.is this via the net.. these games......or cd/dvd rom disk.........Dvd/CD but the Counter strike is off harddrive so I don't know what could be causing it.As suggested by Fed, have you UPDATED your drivers? Also, have you scanned for viruses and Spyware? How long has this been happening? Since you had the game?

[glb]Flame[/glb]My drivers are all up to date and I scan for spyware FREQUENTLY so I don't think its that. This STARTED happening like a few days ago and I had the game for over a few years. Only recently has this been happening.Have you made any changes to your system recently?

[glb]Flame[/glb]Start>Run>Dxdiag>Sound, check for any problems and try turning the sound acceleration down a notch.

I installed a raidmax 350w power supply unit into a emachines w1800. The original power supply was 250watts and did not work. The cpu fan runs and the dvd drive DOOR will open but the hard drive will not boot and the monitor remains black. I have tested the power switch. it works because if you hold it down long enough the fan will turn off. I changed the JUMPERS for the hard drive without any luck. I thought part of the power supply didnt work, but it does. I think either the hard drive or the motherboard is bad . Please help as I'm all out of ideas. Thanks
what the make of the hard drive.....seagate.....>http://www.seagate.com/support/seatools/The hard drive is a samsung SpinPoint V60 Series
SV0602H 60GB Hard Disk Drive
Quote

I installed a raidmax 350w power supply unit into a emachines w1800. The original power supply was 250watts and did not work.

Not really sure if the power supply is compatible or not.  The pins connect properly and the dvd door open and closes so i know its working.  Are you saying the psu may not be compatible with the hard drive or the motherboard?  Thanks for your help.

Awww.. no AGP slot! I GUESS I was wrong about the Geforce 6800 being AGP huh?! So I guess its a pci 16x card now..Apparently so....

[glb]Flame[/glb]whereis this pc from dell......Actually, it was SUPPOSED to be here on July 11-13, but UPON further inspection, it was shipped out TODAY... It will be in my posession in 3-5 days...

[glb]Flame[/glb]You should have built the computer yourself. Ordering parts takes approximately two works days, building less than 8 hours.I would LOVE to build my own, but I'm not that advanced... I doubt that it would even startup if I built it. Plus, if someting goes bad, it would be up to me to fix it... Where as with Dell, I can have someone come to ME, and fix it here. So it's also a time issue. I know what parts look like, but putting them in the right place....  :-/  Plus the power supply... I know where that goes, but I have to figure out how to get it installed without killing myself... Too much work at this time. Eventually, when this new computer is obsolete, then I probably WILL build my own...  

[glb]Flame[/glb]Well, I got it! That was fast! lol  It works like a dream! Thanks for your help guys!  

[glb]Flame[/glb]back up all data drivers etc..........burn  copys of the restore disks...... And take pictures of the still dust free fans. You'll never see them as clean as they are now ever again.Damage limitation........how long will it last

bets TAKEN>........two weeks is my guess before it plays up>>>>>sorry flame......I'll see your bet and say 2 weeks and one day!  

[glb]Flame[/glb]just joking flame .....maybe you might want to take a look here >>http://forums.us.dell.com/supportforums/board/message?board.id=insp_general&message.id=183171&view=by_date_ascending&page=1  prevention is better a cure..or this >Q: Doctor, before you performed the autopsy, did you check for pulse?Yeah thanks! I'll have a look at that... We'll see... it might not last for too much longer than 2 weeks... The STUPID computer came with McAfee Security Center, which I [glb]HATE[/glb] , and I'm taking that off, and installing Norton systemWorks. We'll see how the computer reacts...

[glb]Flame[/glb]Out of the frying pan & into the fire.  *burnt*

[glb]Flame[/glb]

By the WAY, Merlin. The website you have provided me with has GREAT FREEWARE for PDA's. Very MUCH OBLIGED.

my current hard drive has about 7MB left on it, so i really need to get another one. i was looking at these two:

http://www.ewaggle.com/shop/IPS003.asp?ProCd=9710&LClssCd=080&LClssNm=Hard%20Drive&MClssCd=010&MClssNm=EIDE/IDE

http://www.allstarshop.com/shop/product.asp?pid=9949&sid=FA2TBUC9FRX49LLMWF1SH5LUQ5S1DQJF

my current hard drive is a FUJITSU MPF3153AT

one of my concerns was, would either of the new ones be compatible? and also if you dont not think they are a good choice id appreciate some other options..id like to say in the 150ish price range..GO for the top one.......and it will be compatable you think?Purge.....As Merlin has suggested .....go with the Western Digital ........ Maxtors can be a horror story .......
I assume your going to LEAVE to existing one in and install the new  one as a slave.

dl65  
no ill prolly take the other one out, my grand scheme is to eventually get a new MOTHERBOARD as well as a few other components, and build a superior computer. and use all the original stock parts in the lesser computer...in fact if anyone has any suggestions on a motherboard as well, thatd be GREATLY appreciated..my price range for that is under 200$ dollars preferably.I never experienced problems with my Maxtor Hard DISK Drive.

My moniter light just flashes on and off when I turn my computer on. The fans are working and I've tried several moniters so I'm assuming it it a hardware problem. I've read through about 60 pages of THREADS here and only seen one similar problem.

Could a virus have killed the hardrive?
If so, how would I go about replacing it.Does the monitor light flash when the computer is off? Yes, the hard DISK could be dead. Do you have virus  protection? Have you MADE any changes to your system recently?

[glb]Flame[/glb]If the Hard Disk Drive has failed, you should still be able to SEE the POST.

Replace your videocard or connect it to ANOTHER slot. Quote

Does the monitor light flash when the computer is off? Yes, the hard disk could be dead. Do you have virus  protection? Have you made any changes to your system recently?

[glb]Flame[/glb]

I unfortunatley have spilled somthing on my friends laptop keyboard (it's actually the one I'm using right now). Everything is working fine (except for sticky keys), excepts it's booting directly to the windows advanced options menu and the "cue" button isn't working. All of the other letters and buttons work except "cue".  The only reason i can come up with why it's booting in the options menu is that the f8 key is continually pressed, but would the computer work functionally if so? Has anyone ever fixed a broken laptop key??? Please help before I have to buy him a new laptop. Thanks.I have never SEEN a cue key on a Laptop, would you enlighten me as to what its function is?

Have you tried to remove, clean and reinsert the key?What did you spill? It SOUNDS like that key might be stuck down because of some sticky material... Be more careful around computers...  

[glb]Flame[/glb]Remove each key and clean using alcohol and a Q-tip.

I once spilled a cup of Coke on a S/36. It fried the memory and cost $40G to repair. Moral: Food and drink around computers are not a GOOD thing.

Raptor: the cue key is right next to the any key.

Good luck.is the keyboard made of rubber........remove it...and wash it in soapy water.......dry thoughly and replace it....Sure I'll enlighten.   The key I'm refering to is the LETTER "cue". The one that comes after P and before R. I can't use the letter so I spelled it phenetically. The problem stills exists after 5 days. I removed the key and swatted around with a wet "cue"-tip but no avail.  Any other ideas?check the keyboard language........click keyboard icon in the control panel.......or  reload the driver for it...what happens if you connect another keyboard......via the ps2 mouse port

So...a long story short...

I have a systemax laptop (bought from Tigerdirect.com) about a year ago while I was in Iraq (army dude here).  My disc drive is a "slimtype combo lsc-24081".  It, in short, is takin' a smoke BREAK.  This happened once while I was in Iraq, but was able to fix it my using a system restore point.  The problem is seemingly software, not hardware related.  Going to "my computer" shows the drive there (dvd/cd-rw drive E:, and dvd drive G: ).  There is only one drive, so I guess it splits itself for whatever reason.  I put a cd or dvd in, my little "you've got a freakin' cd in YO' drive" light comes on, and it spins and spins with the little "i'm thinking" computer light flashing.  Then, it just stops.  Says screw it, and lights up a malboro.  I have tried a restore point, updating the driver, disabling then re-enabling, THEN again trying to update the driver (most current driver on already), tried rolling back driver but there wasn't one to roll back to.  I believe this came on this time and last, in correlation with CLEANING up the puter and taking off some media players like musicmatch, interactual, etc.  So, any help would be nice, fore I might have to dropkick this thing soon.  Hope to hear from someone soon...and I hope I gave enough info...if not...just bark at me and tell me what else you need.  Thanks for whatever help you can give!First off, I salute you my friend! (US dude here) ... Second, do you mean that smoke is actually coming from the drive?!

[glb]Flame[/glb]Thanks for the salute, I love having a good fan base.  No, the dirve isn't actually smoking.  Just not doing what its supposed to (work).  If it was actually smoking...I "should" be able to figure out the problem.  It just doesn't process the cd.  It will detect a cd there, but after trying to read it, it decides it was mistaken and no cd is in the drive.  Thats the best I can explain it.  Sorry for the confusion about the smoking.  I had a smoke while I was typing, and it seemed rather...funny at the time.  Thanks for the reply...and let me know if you can think of anything.Have you tried updating the drivers fro teh drive? Have you been keeping up with your Windows Updates?

[glb]Flame[/glb]Is the CD-ROM lense reader FILTHY? You said you have taken it with you during your tour of duty, thus the chances are there that sand or other types of dirt have scratched the sensitive surface of the lense.

Have you attempted to clean the lense by obtaining one of the many variants of cleaning kits available in computer/audio stores?All my drivers are up to date and I I have used several cleaners.  Like I said above, this thing has happened before, and I believe it's in correlation with deleting some media players.Oh, and my windows is up to date.  Everything is updated daily if not on the weekend when I get a second to sit down and defrag and virus scan and organize and...etc. etc.

help
.

i got a computer from one of  my buddies for repairs and the reason why was because there was no signal to the monitor when you boot the system up. the very first time i received it, i switch the video card with an old one i had and it worked! so i told him to go buy a new video card and gave it back to him. he bought a new one, agp ATI. im not sure which one cuz i didn't buy it with him. he put it on(had some troubles), booted it, it didn't work
. so i took it back and checked, checked his new one, then tried my old one again. it didn't work anymore. but it was before. i tried checking all the plugs and what not. everything works when it started up. the mouse LIGHTED up, keyboard, fan was spinning, lights. etc... but there was no signal to the monitor, the light on the monitor is just blinking yellow. any help?Try starting in safe mode.i can't even see a signal..so how?i dont see no signal.. so how?is the monitor switched on!!check the serial CABLE pins are not bent....>>>change the video card to another port.....is the monitor any good??I have about the same problem.  My computer worked OK for 7 months but this morning when I turned on,
monitor shows No Signal ditected and just black.
What is the problem, CPU or Video Card?as you know there should be one beep at start up to indicate that the video card is ok, And some basic things to see if your monitor is any good is look at the light on the monitor, green MEANS ok, ORANGE means no signal. Make sure u try jiggling the switch in the back. I have a montior that requires banging from time to time to get it to work. Flashing organge means service needed. See if its the cable or the monitorI have no problem on my monitor.  It shows orange color.  When I TURN on my computer, no sound of beep or hard disk running which should be heard. Again, my monitor works fine.Firmly reseat the videocard in another PCI slot. Assuming it is PCI. If it is AGP, firmly reseat it in AGP slot.

I have a laptop and though it has a wireless card, it DROPS out and I can no longer GET on the internet.  My MOM's computer has a wireless card and it works fine and my friends bring their COMPUTERS over and they work fine with the wireless router.  So what could my problem be?ping the server....like  ping 192.168.01.02 are what ever the config you have.it should display  PACKETS lost ..packets sent..........you may be out of range causing drop out.......or a firewall///trojan problem....

I am moving country to country.
Rather than use internet storeage or CD storage I wish to remove HDD and swap.

Question is;

HDD will come from PC running on 220 volts and will be refitted into PC running 120 volts.

Are hard drives voltage dependent?

My email; [email protected]

All responses thanked in advance.

Rich

raisner_currency.....In a word ....YES ........
However , the operating voltage of the devices is 12 volts dc ..........I think you are getting the internal devices confused with the Power Supply .......It's input voltage is either 120 or 220 Volts AC and the out is
12 VDC , 5 vdc , 3.3vdc ........So if you plan on removing the hard drive , it will still require 12 vdc .........

Hope this answers your question

dl65  Thanks much for the information, I assumed the power supply did cut to low (or standard) voltage of 12 etc.

So as of yesterday, a NEW question!!!

I e-mailed a friend asking this and REPLY was;

The HHD switch won't work, the HHD is dependent on the motherboard.

I have not heard this and never though about it. Is this so??

I used to HotSwap or HotSwitch HHD's and never had a problem

Thanks in advance.

raisner_currency......Think about it ......

"The HHD switch won't work, the HHD is dependent on the motherboard. "   I would be asking your friend to explain what they mean ........because if they were correct .......You would have to match up the mobo with the hard drive ...... If for example you had a scuzzi drive ...then the mobo would have to support scuzzi drives ......... Past that systems components operate on a standard voltages ....of 12vdc , 5vdc , 3.3 vdc ...........
Cd drives , DVD drives , hard drives , floppy drives .......

You should be able to use your hard drive ......

Remember ...it's the imput to the power supply that DIFFERS ....not the output .

Hope this helps you .

dl65

I am reformatting my hard drive using the Win 2000pro installation disk, but I cannot seem to get beyond 80% complete and the computer FREEZES. It is the same whether I use the "repair" section or go straight to "install".

Any ideas?this sounds daft......reload the disk//clean it first....now place it in the drive a twist it.....a quarter of a turn
...why are you reloading the system......is it due to viruses/worms.....run a hard disk check........seagate/maxtor.....diagnostic programs.....Obtain diagnostic software from your HDD manufacturer to check HDD integrity.Tried the disk thing - still no joy.
Reason for formatting is that windows stopped loading for some reason. I tried to repair/install over and ENDED up with 2 versions of windows, one working the other not. However the working one could not access any of the programmes and I was faced with duplicating these as well. Also, it had a lot of junk files, so having read that it was an easy job (and that some people reformat regulally - can you believe!) it seemed like a good idea at the time.
How do you go about the disk check you referred to?what hardisk have you got........my bet is  it a maxtor.....quantum fireball.....>>http://www.maxtor.com/portal/site/Maxtor/menuitem.3c67e325e0a6b1f6294198b091346068/?channelpath=/en_us/Support/Software%20Downloads/ATA%20Hard%20Drives&downloadID=57I can see now why you are called Merlin!!

I downloaded the programme, restarteted the computer with the floppy and hey presto, it all worked like magic. In 20 mins, I had formated the hard disk and reloaded windows.

I can't thank you enough

you MAY have found that your hard drive had bad blocks/sectors on it....i would if you can  afford it >>is to invest in a seagate  hard drive.....they are a little but more reliable...tip!

Ok, so not sure if artifacting is the proper term for this or not, but it seems to fit based on what I have read.

Hoping for some input with the following problem:
Lately when I am in 3d games for say 4+ hours, the screen starts to flicker with all sorts of colors, the pixels in the game seem to stretch ACROSS the entire screen, and the background starts to block like a checkers BOARD in yellow.  When I play Mpegs, the screen almost looks like it has static similar to poor TV reception.  

Edit:  This is not limited to within games... the same can happen to the general desktop screen as well.  It just happens most of the time I am GAMING.  NO recent changes made to the system, happens on all monitors.

I used to be able to shut the comp down for an hour or so and be ok, for about another 4 hours.  I assumed perhaps something was overheating, just not sure which part.

Now, it seems to happen immediately or after only a couple minutes.  I opened up the box and unplugged/replugged the vid card and it didn't seem the do anything.  I did notice the fan on the card seems to rotate rather freely, not sure if that is by design or if it is failing.  It does run, I did check that.

I have the following specs:
Asus A7V8X-X
AMD 2500 Barton
350W Generic
512 PC 2700 Corsair Value Ram
Ati 9800 Pro

The system had been running fine for about a year or so, until very recently.  Wondering if I can maybe just replace the vid card fan or the card itself, to stretch out the life of this rig.

Any input is appreciated, I will try to answer any questions if I have missed something as well.Did you try to uninstall then reinstall the video driver?...

[glb]Gizmo73[/glb]What are your system TEMPERATURES? Quote

Did you try to uninstall then reinstall the video driver?...

[glb]Gizmo73[/glb]

Okay then. I'm finally BAFFLED enough to ask for help. So... "HEELLLLP!!!"

I get no sounds. Card installed correctly, wires where they're s'posed to be. Speaker icon in taskbar. New Harmon-Kardon speakers, connected and lit.

This is an HP pooter, WIN98 2nd Edition,  ENSONIQ SoundBlaster PCI 64. No conflicts evident.

Any ideas? I've tried everything except this hammer I have hanging on the WALL beside me. It's next!

 --Confoozled WILDLY,
      Mrs CleaverHave you updated or made any changes to the sound driver lately? If you have, try to rollback the driver.

[glb]Gizmo73[/glb]Under your sound CONFIGURATION, are any of the options muted?if you have re-installed the system you will NEED this?>http://www.soundcard-drivers.com/drivers/55/55137.htm

We suffered a power cut at work yesterday and one of our desktop computers won't start up since then. And, as luck would have it, it's the one containing all the shared files.  

When we switched it on following the power shortage, all the lights on the desktop itself and the keyboard were flashing, but it did not start up. Since then, we have tried LEAVING it to cool down, replacing the fuse in the plug, changing the lead but all to no AVAIL. Please help! My boss is at the stage where she wants to rip it apart with her bare hands!

I did a quick search on GOOGLE and here, but couldn't find an answer; sorry if this is a QUESTION you get a lot!Was this caused by lightning? If so, you probably have quite a few parts fried...

[glb]FLAME[/glb]No: dozy builders.  

It's been sent off to be fixed now. We tried our hardest, but it must be the motherboard.claim of their insurers........

A couple of years ago I bought a used laptop.  I decided to upgrade the HARD drive so I bought one off of eBay.  Removed the old hard drive, put in the new hard drive.  Turn on the laptop.  I get the following message:

Windows could not start because the following file is missing or corrupt:
\system32\hal.dll.
Please REINSTALL a copy of the above file.

I get this message whether or not there is a cd in the drive.  However, if I have a floppy disk in it states it is not a system disk . . . I put in a dos boot disk and it will only acknowledge the floppy drive but will not run ANYTHING from it.  The hard drive is supposed to be BRAND new.

Am I forgetting to do something?  I would appreciate any help-however, please be gentle, I only know enough to get myself into trouble

The laptop is a Toshiba Tecra 8000, upgrading from a 6mb to a 40 mb hard drive and yes the new hard drive is made by Toshiba.
Did you install an operating system on the new drive?I can't get to that point.  It is as though the laptop is not reading the hard drive or the cd drive.  It reads the floppy drive provided I start out with a dos start disk, but then it won't run anything from a floppy I put in.

It has been a while since I have dealt with a new hard drive so maybe I am missing a step, but once that message shows up about the hal.dll any key I hit causes it to reboot and the message shows up again.Go here -> http://www.compphix.com/corrupthal.html to fix a missing or corrupt hal.dll file.

[glb]Gizmo73[/glb]http://www.kellys-korner-xp.com/xp_haldll_missing.htm You will have to change the boot order in your bios to make the CDROM boot 1st.do you have a winxp install disk.......hold down the f1 key on boot...... now change the boot sequence to boot from cdrom drive....  use the tosh disk??A:\ sys  c:    is it win98+winxp upgrade??

i have an older come a p350 and i recently installed a cr-rw( an Artec wrr-52x) in it, and everything is working fine, it reads cd's, i can install everything and lisen to music and stuff like that, but i dosn't read it as a burner, nero can't find it as a burning device and neither can other programs i have tryed, it is getting rather anyoing because i would like to burn a few cd's to back up some files cuz this old thing likes to crash alot   ,, so if anyone could help please e-mail me([email protected]) i would be really glad if someone could help Check with Artec to see if they have device driver updated or firmware updates for that model burner depending on your operating system.yeah i did, and i'v re-installed the firmware and looked for drivers but nothing has WORD as of yet.... it's really frustratingSearch your computer for the incd.exe file, double click it then try your burner.and if i can't find the .exe, cuz i can't seem to find it :SDid you use the windows search tool or did you just go looking for it?i used the windows search tool, and it didn't find it, so i'm at a loss as to what i should do, and if this has any matter i'm running win 98 normal, but yeah still at a lossWhen you install Nero there is an OPTION to install incd, maybe you need to reinstall Nero & try it.
It's been years since I've installed it so my memory is a bit ordinary on it now.i installed it but i'm not quit sure if it worked or not, sence i keep getting the blue screen of death, but i'v gotin it befor an it has to do wit the dive lable and another program i have instaled :SIf you installed it then it should be there.
BSOD SOUNDS like an unrelated problem.it seems to be related cuz the bsod came up whenever i tryed to use s sertain program once i got the new drive, and it was because i had a digital cam that called itself drive d: as well and my cd drive was calling itself d:, so it gave me a bsod sayding oe fatel exeption in voltrack or something like that, but i'ma mess round wit it today and see whats i can does
yeah no i can't figure it out, it still not working :S anything else i might try???so NOONE has any helpful tips for me what soever i really wanna get this working

Hi,

Recently my computer hung on me and has not been booting since. I get absolutely no output to the screen. No POST test, the screen is just blank.

I though it might have initially been the video card but after removing it and putting in a new card I still had the same problem. So, I bought a new motherboard and last weekend I installed that. The same problem still exists. There is power getting to the motherboard, the hd's spin up and there is even power getting to my video card but still no output to the screen. I'm beginning to think that maybe my processor is fried but THOUGHT as a last resort I'd fish around and see if anyone had any suggestions that I could try as a last resort.

thanks for any help in advanceTest all individual HARDWARE components on another system.

It may be wise as to test the Power Supply UNIT FIRST to see if it is defective.The monitor?

i have an EPSON EPL 5800L printer.
am trying to PRINT some DOCUMENTS, after printing the document the printer is not deletint the job. the other document still in queue. i think has a problem with the cleaning steps.
what i can do to SOLVE this problemTry updating/reinstalling the drivers for the printer from the MANUFACTURER's WEBSITE...

[glb]Flame[/glb]

Hi!

Is it possible that my CPU is overheating a bit (10 to 15 degrees over normal condition) because of my power supply is overheating  as well ? ( because the  fan of it looks obstructed by smoking and cat hair)

How can i remove dust hairball from the P.S. fan ?

I cannot open it and then i don't want to push the dust in the power supply case by using aircan and i don't even have a battery vaccum cleaner on hand.

Any idea?
:-/GET a quetip, and dip it in rubbing alcohol. Now brush away the dust etc. Or just use tweasers for hairballs.

[glb]Flame[/glb] Quote

Get a quetip, and dip it in rubbing alcohol. Now brush away the dust etc. Or just use tweasers for hairballs.

[glb]Flame[/glb]

ok... Use tweasers to remove the hairballs first... Then, use the alcohol and quetip to remove dust... It's like a magnet. Unless something blows the dust, it is not likely that the dust will fly around...

[glb]Flame[/glb]

the problems with a psu fan.....it draws air in and also dust.....the makers should have reverse this process.....heat out //dust out...maybe a polarity change would sort it...ideas in action.....place pc on the floor.......the air is cooler there?

I need to know what type of RAM this is and what its memory is, i will try to describe it to the best of my ability, and if any more info is needed it will be provided, description below
there are 8 micro chips on this one side (16 in all, 8 on each side)

sticker says
samsung
korea    0229
M368L6423DTL-CBO

on each chip it says
Samsung    229
K4H560838D
BDEC56BA Korea

I need to know if this will work in my comp, my comp has SD RAM
Any Info provided will be greatly appreciated,
Thank Youcolonel_sanders.... So you are looking for .......
168 pin SD Ram .......

Well ......I could be wrong , but I think what you have is.....  Samsung M368L6423DTL-CBO   ...... 184 pins
512 MB-PC2100-CL 2.5 ........  
If I'm correct this Ram will not even fit the dimm socket in your pc ........

let us know

dl65  If it fits will it work?
because if it fits and it wont work then im not even go through the hasselhttp://www.kingston.com/   also you should if possible FIND out how much ram your motherboard will support??
what is the make of this pc......my comp has 2 slots both with only 128mb of ram. the make of my comp is a dell but the make of the comp i took the ram out of is a E Machines, that takes a AMD athalon XP proceesorThis will tell you what you have really got>
http://www.active-hardware.com/english/misc/sandra.html

you will have to go to dell/hells website for the specs on upgrading your pc.......play safe.....dont kill it ...i know all the specs for upgrading, i was just wondering what the ram i posted was to see if it would work in my dell (the ram i posted was from a comp at my house that is out of service), but if it realy is ddr ram then it wont work in a sd ram slot, right?Well .....The number you posted seems to refer to ddr .......... you could count the pins .......168 = Sd Ram .......... 184 = ddr ......
Or you could install the app that Merlin suggested or pc wizard 2005   at .... http://www.majorgeeks.com/download3846.html  

it will look at your ram and let you know exactly what it is ....it will also give you a lot og other info about your pc ....

dl65  ill count the pins, tell me what the pins look like so i can count them and make SURE it is ddr, thankscolonel_sanders..... The pins are the CONTACTS that plug into the dimm socket ..they are gold plated ...dont touch them with your fingers ................   I'm a bit concerned that you do not know what the pins are .........PERHAPS you should be taking the stick of ram you have to someone who can identify it for you ....just so it isnt danaged by mishandling ......

dl65  

one more question, i also have a dell laptop that is old and we dont use it any more, would i be able to take ram out of it and put it in my desktop?colonel_sanders.... Well that would depend on what type of ram is in the laptop.......
Post the model number of it and we can check it for you .

dl65  ok
Dell Latitude XP 4100D
If you need any more info just askfor the price of** ram these days** i....would not bother....taking the ram from the dell lat.....it will not fit/or work anyway...**.places like scanuk/pcworld/dabs are pretty cheap.**.....Yeah i figured i was just going to have to buy more ram, its not that bad though, thanks for the help

i just recently bought a linksys wireless g broadband router with speed booster. i have it configured to work with aol, but i can't access the internet on my host pc. why is that? my other pc with the adapter works fine. the lights indicate that i have internet connection, and no extra lights are on. i looked in linksys' knowledge base thing, i even contacted them through e mail, but the response is takin a while. both of my pc's have xp home edition. aol dsl internet..... its wrt54gs model router.


plz help!check firewall options......where is it located.......on the wall is a good option... providing its nopt next to a mains/cable power outlet ///..  type netstat in the cmd prompt. what happens??....are your settings.......ok.....in networking......have you tried the wizard??

did you load the software first.......then  install the hardware??
or be patience and start again>>http://www.wown.com/articles_tutorials/Introduction-Wireless-Networking-Part1.htmlwhat should i check for in my firewall options? the router is located on top of my tower, REASON being that my pc desk is full and i had no were to put it.  the wizard didn't work. i put the CD it came with in first, everything set up fine until the very last step when it tried connecting to the internet. i didnt make any connections, so then i tried setting it up manually.you have to allow .....connections.......check your firewalls settings to allow your router to work.......manual settings......are normally ip 192.168.01
subnet mask 255.255.255.0>>>>>>>gateway 192.169.02 ........have you clicked the wirless icon in the control PANEL??type ipconfig  in the cmd...... what does it tell youi dont know what u mean by clicking on the wirless icon in the control panel....... but when i type ipconfig in the command promt on the host pc, it says it doesnt recognize the command for some reason. but when i type it in my other pc, it say wirless ethernet something something....... and then it shows info about it.my fault you are using win......wipconfig.. or netview...have you looked here>?..........UPDATE....RTFM.......read the fine manual

>http://www.linksys.com/support/support.asp?spid=15

>http://www.microsoft.com/technet/prodtechnol/winxppro/maintain/wifisoho.mspx

Help!

Loaded all the hardware into a new motherboard, done this before with no problems.  This time when I plug it all in go throught bios seems fine, but the ram keeps cycling none stop unless I press escape and the computer will not start.  Any ideas?  Ever seen that before?  Maybe I am just being blonde?  Driving me fricking crazy! 1. Is the RAM compatible with your mainboard?
2. Is the RAM FIRMLY seated?
3. Have you taken precautionary measures against electro-STATIC discharge when handling the RAM modules?yes yes and yes, never seen this happen before

I guess I will go and buy some new ram and see if that helps, the ram came off of the motherboard I am using so I can't see how it would be uncompatible.  I have a work area that is static resistant as I can make it.  I am pretty SURE that new ram will not solve this problem but I am willing to try ANYTHING at this point. If anyone has seen this kind thing before I would appreciate their input.  

if I recall correctly, RAM that is CONSTANTLY being counted during POST is most likely faulty.

Have you tried installing the RAM module in a bank #2, #3 or #4?? Assuming you have more than one bank.I tried the ram in all the blocks only cycles in the first block doesn't register at all in the other blocks.  seems kind of wierd that it reads how much ram it is in block 1 but then goes back to zero, and the ram is the original I never actually took it off the motherboard until it started to cycle, seems odd it would just "go" all by it self.

Johttp://www.tomshardware.com/motherboard/19981024/ram-03.html

I have a Compaq Presario SS100NX P-4 2.6G, Windows XP Home. 80G Ultra DMA HD, 256mb DDR SDRAM memory, CD-RW drive 45x24x48, DVD ROM drive 16X.  The computer now takes approximately 2 minutes and 15 seconds to boot up, which I think is way too long for this computer.  It also takes a long time to shut down when it is shut down normally.  The main problem is that this computer shuts off by itself without any warning after being in Windows XP for approximately 3 to 5 minutes.  I attempted to create the Recovery Disk from the PC Help & Tools/Compaq Recovery CD-DVD to reinstall Windows XP and the original programs.  However, after approximately 1 minute, the computer shuts off, which terminates the creation process.  Note-The McAfee Virus program is expired.  Do you have any idea why the computer would shut off like it does, and how I can resolve this issue?
Have you made any changes to your SYSTEM recently? I would give you a link to a virus protection program for free, but if your computer will be restarting constantly, it will never be installed   ... What about Safe Mode? Will that work?

[glb]Flame[/glb]do you have a firewall??is the remote access ENABLED?do you have a descent cooling system...do you recieve any error messages??what happens if you use safe mode hold down the f8 key on boot........safe mode..goto admin tools events viewer log......is may tell you more..This computer has a firewall, but I do not know if it is configured properly.  When I boot up and hold the f8 key, I have a choice to boot in Windows XP or the Recovery Console.  When I choose the Recovery Console, I get the following message: "File \CMDCONS\ntkrnlmp.exe could not be loaded.  The error code is 14.  Setup cannot continue. Press any key to exit."  When I press a key, monitor screen goes blank and the computer shuts off after approximately 20 seconds.  One additional note - when the computer shuts off by itself, and I press the power button to restart, the KEYBOARD will not work unless I unplug the keyboard cable and reinsert it.

• Scan for Viruses
  
• Scan for Trojan Horses
  
• Scan for Spyware
  
• Install latest Microsoft [security] updates
  

I have spent more than an hour searching back through old post didn’t find answer so hope it is OK to ask now, as I am SURE it will be easy for you EXPERTS to answer.
 What I am wanting to do or know about is running 2 monitors.  Right now am using a Cirrus Logic 5434 PCI card and my board has a built in video adapter, ATI 3D rage pro (atir3), disabled.  
 I am running windows 98, is this possible with this set-up and if so what do I have to do to get it going, HOPEFULLY don’t have to pluck a yellow belly sap SUCKERS tail feather while facing due east and reciting some voodoo mumbo jumbo.
http://www.digitalroom.net/index2.html


winxp does have this embeded in its o/s>>http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/setup/learnmore/multimonitor.mspx

what MAKE is the hard drive....on this dr who pc.. Quote

what make is the hard drive....on this dr who pc..

Western Digital

take out the old hard drive from the other  defunct......pc....at least you can rob parts from the now old one...i take the jumpers on both are set to master ...make sure.. wd drives....normally clunk when booting.<bearing failures on old drives>......did it.. you could test it>>http://support.wdc.com/download/index.asp?cxml=n&pid=999

you are we are going around in circles......i would suggest a pactical way to sort it.....barebones.....>http://www.buildyourowncomputer.net/learntobuild.html

process of elimination.........it could be anything... when you boot this pc .........what happens.....does the num lock light come on.......one good indicator.......does the monitor.....display anything.....broken wavey lines...ram sticks../video card.....get the drift........rebuild it..is the only quickfix

I have a P4 2.6 ghz, 512mb ram laptop RUNNING windows 2000 and is out of the warranty period.

A few MONTHS back my dvd/cdrw combo drive disappeard.  I bought a brand new nec 3600 dvd writer as I thought the drive could be broken but this new drive is not detected by windows 2000 either.  Nothing appears in My Device Manager.  There are no exclamation marks or device conflicts.  No matter which drive I put in device manager DVD/CD ROM Drives - VOBID InstantDrive CD SCSI CdRom Device is listed.  The drive does get power and opens but Windows does not detect it.

I have been told that the IDE cable could be loose?  What does this mean and my laptop does not look like its been designed to be dismantled!

Anybody have any ideas?  The ide jack plug.....maybe damaged..........have you constantly changed drives.......what is the make of the laptop..does your f/d drive work??have you checked that the drives are enabled in the bios setup?I have only SWAPPED the drives over once putting the new one in instead of the old but neither are detected.  The laptop is made by Novatech  www.novatech.co.uk which is a fairly large UK company but not worldwide.  The floppy disk drive works no problem reading disks and allowing new stuff to be added etc.  I put the bios to the default settings as I do not really understand what the bios is all about.  I would assume that the default settings would be correct?  The primary and secondary stuff and print master and slave is something I know nothing about.  Any further ideas would be appreciated, Thanks.is the drive fully home with the lock or catch on it....the get out of jail free CARD would be.....take the cd drive back and exchange it for an external drive..........or contact novatech......does sound like the jack port is either misalined.....or damaged pins....

Hi.

I've recently upgraded from an ATI Radeon All-in-Wonder 128 AGP to a NVidia GeForce 6800 GT 256 AGP. In doing so I've also changed my power supply from 350W to 550W at the advice of the NVidia info.

Running Athlon 3400+ on an ASUS K8V-SE Deluxe with Maxtor 300GB drive Windows XP SP2.

I've uninstalled all the ATI stuff that I can and cleaned the registry with TuneUp 2000. The new NVidia card has gone in okay and drivers have installed. Checking online these appear to be the latest (6.6.7.2).

I've now noticed that I've got five ERROR events for VARIOUS ATI services that, unsurprisingly, can't start. I've removed everything in my Program Files/ATI folder. I can't see any Services, stopped or otherwise, in the service viewer that relate to these events. Any advice on what I've not cleaned out & how I can resolve this?

I've also had a few problems with the game FarCry crashing (which used to run fine under the ATI card) and two corresponding 'emtpy' error events logged.

Any and all advice welcome...Those programs are trying to display becuase your registry has a few errors... Download Registry Mechanic to solve this... http://www.download.com/1200-2018-5141163.html

[glb]Flame[/glb] Quote

I've also had a few problems with the game FarCry crashing (which used to run fine under the ATI card) and two corresponding 'emtpy' error events logged.

I have Window's 98.  After moving, window's can't detect a mouse in PLACE.  I have switched the mouse out  and I am still GETTING the same message.  Please HELP.  Prior to moving everything was fine.has this pc being dropped or banged.......what mouse is it??TRY a USB mouse as it may be the ACTUAL port itself that was damaged. Quote

I have Window's 98.  After moving, window's can't detect a mouse in place.  I have switched the mouse out  and I am still getting the same message.  Please help.  Prior to moving everything was fine.

I hope someone here can help me.

I just installed a new Maxtor 250GB HD in my Compaq computer from 2001. It has a PIII 550 processor. For some reason I can't get Win2k to install on the HD. I've checked the BIOS and tried every different combination of installation.

When I tried to boot the computer from the Win2k boot diskettes I got the following error message:
"Disk I/O error".  When I try to run the first executable PROGRAM from the a prompt, it just freezes up.
Yet the floppy drive will run the Maxtor PowerMax HD testing software from a diskette. So it's not the floppy drive.

I also tried to run the MaxBlast install program from both a floppy and a CD and both get to the point of beginning the installation and then it freezes up.

When I try to boot with the Win2k CD it gives me the following error message:
"Operating system not found"

If anyone can help me figure out what could be causing all this, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you!You should set your bios for the cdrom to boot first then try & boot it with the w2k disk in the drive.Thanks for the advice.

I tried changing the boot order to CD first and Floppy first. Neither helped.Thanks for the advice.  I tried that and I get the error, "Operating system not found".

I tried changing the boot order to floppy first too, no luck.Huh? Now you've really confused me  
Start again...
You set your bios to make the cdrom as the 1ST boot?
You exiting & saved your changes? (Sometimes tricky)
You booted your computer with the w2k disk in the cdrom?Yes to all of that.
When I boot with the floppy drive first, it says "disk i/o error".

When i changed the bios to boot the cd drive first and save and reboot with the win2k cd in, it says "operating system not found"Are you sure all the hardware is connected up properly? Quote

When i changed the bios to boot the cd drive first and save and reboot with the win2k cd in, it says "operating system not found"

My HP 3200C scanner worked well with my Win 98se & AMD 800 with 128mb RAM.
It became necessary to replace the AMD motherboard with a Celeron 2.4 with 768meg RAM.  Also changed OS to XP Home sp2.
After changing the OS, it was necessary to update the HP 3200C driver, which I did.
The scanner connects to a parallel port.
It now requires 2 minutes 45 seconds to scan a photo - PROBABLY 5 times longer that with the old 'puter.
Is there any hope to make it a little quicker?Is it compatible with your computer? have you checked with the manufacturer for support?

[glb]Flame[/glb]jimquist..... You should have a look on driverguide.com for any drivers for that scanner designed for XP .........then you will probably get an improvement in the scan time .....

dl65  HP no longer offers free support on this 5 year old scanner but they DID provide a Driver for the scanner to use with XP.
I wouldn't know where to ask, but since they went so far as to make a driver for the HP 3200C to run on XP and since Celeron processor is not something terribly wierd, I would [glb]assume[/glb] that it is compatible with my computer.
thanks for your thoughts
jimjimquist...... I just went to the site , driversguide.com , the one I suggested you look at and there are quite a number of drivers for that scanner  on Win XP ..........Which driver are you using .......because one or more of these may work better ........

dl65  Hi  dl65
I looked at the driverguide.com site.  Don't know how one would determine if the drivers shown would be better or not and whether they are to be trusted.
I am using the driver downloaded from HP:
sj648en... Release Date: 2004-09-01  Version: 2.0
40.2 MB
Looking kind of glum     Off to beddy-bye - maybe tomorrow will be better.  Thanks again.
Jim jimquist.... Why dont you give a few of them a try ....
You may find one that works better than what you have.
If you dont LIKE the way they work ...just roll back to the one your using now ......


dl65  You should check all of your scanner settings in case you or something altered them.I am not very knowledgeable when it COMES to scanners, but is it possible that you have set the scanner to conserve POWER rather than warm up quickly?

Hello
I have this Warning AFTER  INSERTING the CD that come with the motherboard while trying to
install the driver!
     
Your multi-function device (Standard Dual PCI IDE Controller) has some child devices using 32bit drivers and others using
compatibility mode drivers. This configuartion is not supported so your pc has been halted to prevent corruption.
After restart, windows will use compatibility mode drivers for each child device ATTACHED to this multi-function device. You may
obtain an updated driver for the device that caused the problem by calling the manufacturer or you can disable the device.

I am using PRE-INSTALLED COMPAQ DESKTOP 7400 SERIES WINDOW 98SE OS, (NO OS CD GIVEN)

865PE Neo2-PLS P4 SOCKET  478 MAINBOARD.
AOPEN CD-R/RW, MODEL CRW5232/AAP PRO,
KINGSTON 512MB DDR SDRAM 400MHZ.
INTEL PENTIUM 4 at 2.4GHZ

I have set the cdrw to master and installed under #2 IDE slot.
The AOPEN CD-R/RW model is shown in the BIOS under secondary master.
BUT My Computer and device manager section  has NO CDRW drive listed.

I have tried cable change, checked cable and power connections and all verified correct but still NO CDRW drive in my system.

Please advice SOON. Thanks.
see if aopen has a patch for it......or updated drivers....or have a READ and see if any of these sorts it>http://club.aopen.com.tw/forum/viewmessage.asp?forumID=20&MessageID=75982