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When ever i install The VisionTek Xtasy GeForce4 Ti4200 128mb video card into a windows xp, it starts up and gets past boot but then when it gets past the windows xp load screen, it will stop and a ONE space line appears in the top left corner. Any help would be appreciatedHave you GONE to the manufacturers SITE and obtained the LATEST drivers ?


dl65 I would download the latest drivers from ATI also make SURE to recheck the card to make sure its seated properly and check all cords and connections as sometimes things come loose when you put everything back together.Quote

I would download the latest drivers from ATI also make sure to recheck the card to make sure its seated properly and check all cords and connections as sometimes things come loose when you put everything back together.

I currently have a soundmax integrated audio sound card
i bought a sound blaster audigy SOUNDCARD to replace. it. it is a pci card.
i am a home RECORDER or music, I installed the new soundcard and disabled the old on,and when i TRIED to record vocals to the music, it wouldnt time up CORRECTLY. a friend told me to get rid of all the SOFTWARE that came with the new soundcard and just keep the drivers. well i did that and i am still having the same problem.
I have a PENTIUM 4 3.00 ghz
2.99 ghz, 1 gb of ram and i am running windows xp.
any ideas?
also, the integrated audio card will only let me disable it and not uninstall it, everytime i try to uninstall and then restart it finds it again and i am back in the same place.
do i need to physically take out the cord that is connecting my sound card to the mother board? if so i have no idea which cord it is or even if there is one. since it is integrated i cant even see the sound card.
thanks
De
Enter your BIOS setup to disable the onboard sound card.

I was fixing a friends old computer because he did not want to get a new one. The computer was super old and was in bad condition. It was just something laying around

I opned the computer and changed its PII 350mhz to PII 400 mhz and I ADDED 32MB more Ram to it
I reformated his computer and got rid of the norton stuff because norton will make his computer lag even more. Once I was done I decided to unplug it and set back up my other computer. Its been 7 days so I thought I give his computer a test run. At start up i get an error message Incompatable DIMM slot 3
So I decide well ok.. It worked before dont know why its telling me this. I attemp to open the case but the case has a lock inside and inorder to unlock it you need to enter COMOS. I tried to enter COMOS to unlock it but it always gets to the Invaild DIMM. I tried opening it from the other side which is usless and lock also..

Computer:
Compaq Deskpro
P II 400mhz
3x 32 MB RAM

I dont want to break the case seeing as the motehr board is diffrent then your normal computer:
It is a motherboard in which there is this one huge slot that you use which is connected to a bunch of PCI slots. There are no cable slots for the SATA cables because there all on that big card with all the PCI'sWhat model Deskpro? An END? Can you send a pic? I suspect the only big slot is where the riser card plugs in. It has all of the PCI and, in some cases, ISA slots. In the future only change one variable at a time. In this case, lets make sure what we are running. Can you power on to the BIOS and get the specs of the machine? (F10 during attempted boot)GX1_Man, I applaud you for being able to give an intelligent response to such a garbled mess as the original post. Amazing.Windows98 is my buddy! Thanks Gx1_Man. I can not send a picture of what it looks like on the inside because the computer case has some sort of lock on the inside. I took out the screws and try to open the cover but something is stopping it from coming out. I know in COMOS there is a lock case mechanism. Ive been trying to get it unlock. As for the computer it says Deskpro cant find the model number anywhere. There are only 2 screws that are on the case. I tried flipping the computer on its side and standing up to open it but to no avail.Does it look like this?



Or



Or



Or



Or This?

That last one looks like my ex-wife! I have a hard time uploading the pics but it looks like the first one on screen except the pieces are fliped over it stands up instead of laying downThat is a Deskpro EP and the drive bays are convertible, meaning they can easily be rotated 90 degress for the tower or desktop look.

There are indeed two screws that hold the side panel down, but I have never seen a lock that prevented removing the panel shipped as factory equipment. (How did you get in there in the first place?) The only panel that REMOVES is the left side as you are looking at it. There is a jumper on the motherboard that resets the BIOS back to defaults. Here is some info on that machine.

http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/Home.jsp?locale=en_US&prodTypeId=12454&prodSeriesId=96269&submit.y=7&submit.x=10&lang=en&cc=usI see a small siver bar stopping the case from opening. the case has its own little flap in which it it goes into a small hole. Orginally it was unlock but when i enter COMOS to hit lock. *thinking it was funny and usless* I HEARD a thump inside. I didnt think much of it so i hit unlock. But I didnt attempt to open the case of the computer since Everything seems fine no need to open it.

Now when i try sliding it out since the bottom flap is broken the bottom tries to slide out but the top part which the flap is fine is stoping it from comming out.

When I visit a page on line the page will scroll up, I don't do it, I can't get it to go back. When this is happening I can go to Start, Programs, and the highlight is running down the list of programs column by column, over and over. I changed out the mouse, that did not help. I thought my video card was overheating so I put my old card in and that didn't help. I've run virus checks after updating my virus protection, I've gotten new update drivers for the video card. So now what? Any IDEAS? I'm down to thinking the motherboard or monitor.
AMD 64, 3000+ socket 754
gigabyte mobo (I don't remember the number)
the monitor is 5 years old, CRT 17" Viewsonic
video card is Sapphire 256mb AGP 8xStuck key? Can you borrow a keyboard as a test?I tried a new keyboard with the mouse, I can reset the computer (I have to use the reset button) and it will usually be OK for ANYWHERE between 5min and 1hour.Are you using a PS2 mouse? Can you?I currently have a cordless optical mouse, and cordless keyboard. I traded them out for ones with cords, PS2 mouse, unless both of them are bad too.... I hope not.
Thanks, I will look around and see if I have anymore I can change out to make sure.Thats a WIERD One !!!.....could there be a short on the M/Bord.... Gunked up near the fans ??

Yeah, it is wierd. It's hard to describe to people whats happening. When I thought it was the video card, I blew all the dust out of the case and off of the fans thinking it was overheating. I EVEN left the case open, just in case. But as for gunk, I didn't look for gunk, not sure if anything besides dust could get in there but I'll CHECK it out this morning when I get home.
ThanksI thought I replicated your problem by holding my finger on the up curser arrow.
I have no trust in usb ports or cordless for the keyboard or mouse.Ya know,
that's pretty MUCH what it looks like, I know I have another keyboard at home,(benefits of getting all the old stuff from family) so I'll hook it up and check it out. It's almost new so should not be bad.
ThanksIt appears you were right about the keyboard, I put a new one on and it seems to be fine. Thanks for the help! I never even thought about that.
Thanks again 8-)

Hello

I haeve a HP laserjet 1010 PRINTER,

The ink of that hes been finished,Anyone knows tutorial for that?

thanks in advance,GOOD LUCK!
I don't understand... Your printer is out of ink? Just go to the store and buy another cartridge. There will be instructions in the box on how to replace it.

FlameHello

This is what I have:

http://i4.tinypic.com/108cmqc.jpg

The Ink has been finished,Now how can I handle it again?Do you know any tutorial about that?(by Images that train this)

Please guide me,ThanksTell you what... Take that cartridge to the store, and have them give you a brand NEW ONE just like it. Inside the box, there will be instructions on how to replace it. The old cartridge must be thrown out.

FlameI THINK you need toner, not ink. Here are the manuals for that model;

http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/DocumentIndex.jsp?&lang=en&cc=us&contentType=SupportManual&docIndexId=179166&prodTypeId=18972&prodSeriesId=306505&lang=en&cc=us

I brought a new webcam - I followed the installation instructions to the letter and can't "view" - I GET "Error 80040275 Cannot ADD vidcap to filtergraph" Does anyone have any suggestions? Thank You.Contact the manufacturer. Do you meet all hardware REQUIREMENTS? Any other problems with the computer? Is this USB 2? Wjhat kidn of webcam - make and MODEL? What version of Windows? , etc.

OK guys, if money was (almost!) no object, what would yours be?

AMD or Intel?

ATI or Nvidia?

PCIexpress or AGP?

Basically I'm looking to build a new high end PC, but I'd LIKE a bit of info from you learned peeps on compatibility issues etc you may have heard of. Does ATI work better with AMd for instance? :-/

I'll be using it MAINLY for music recording and gaming - I have the SOUNDCARD I want in MIND, but am unsure about pretty much everything else! Whats the best gear about?

Also if anyone KNOWS about hard drives - is SATA2 3gb that much better then 1.5gb? I read some tests that didn't look much different.

A word about overclocking - I dont think I'll go down this route, it seems a little risky and potentially expensive if something blows up! How are your experiences with it and how does it affect the gear mentioned?

You dont have to answer all the questions in there! Just anything you know or have heard would be GREATLY appreciated. Collectively a little bit of expertise from all of you should provide a very helpful thread to more then just me I reckon!

Thanks in advance! You really oiught to use your google button, but:

AMD or Intel? Toss up.

aTI or nVidia? Toss up.

AGP or PCIe? PCIe is newer and AGP is a fading technology.

Basing around a sound card is an unusual approach, but oh well.

SATA is evolving and 3 is a newer version. Everything is going that way. That's 'progress'.

Overclocking? I would never recommend this. If an X2 4000+ Processor is not fast enough, you have other issues.

The main issues are your budget and your purpose. We don't know your budget.




Like I said, imagine money not really being an issue - by this I mean I could buy the top consumer stuff, not NASA computer parts!

The AMD/Intel and ATI/Nvidia comparison I really meant for compatibility issues, like ATI having less problems with AMD then it would with Intel, but I guess it's just not that simple huh?

I'll do a bit more 'googling' then and see if I can get a picture of the general concensus that way.

Cheers!

I have an external HARD drive 160 gig. I orginally partitioned it in to 4 drives. Now I want to repartition this drive into one drive. I am stomped on how to do this, any suggestions? Any help would be appreciated. :-?Do you have software such as PartitionMagic or a similar program? You NEED to do this if you want the data saved on one or more partitions.No, I don't have partitionmagic or a related software program. I have transfered all of my data to my main drive. There is nothing on the external drive that I have to save. HOWEVER, there is information that I would RATHER not have to transfer back to the external drive. Is there anyway that I can save this data?If you use a program similar to PartitionMagic, you can close up any partitions you like. The downside is that any partitions you close will have the data deleted.

This may help you.. Feel free to try it with any empty partitions you want assimilated. However, just to be safe, back up any important data before partitioning. If you have all the data off the external drive, you can use the Disk Management tools (if Win 2000 or XP) of a Win98 boot disk (free at bootdisk.com) to delete ALL of the partitions and put back one big one, or however you want it set up. You need no extra software to do this. Then if you want to copy some data back there you can.

First, I currently have a compaq presario, s4100nx
Windows XP
768 ram
I believe my processor is an Intel Celeron w/ 2.5 ghz

I need to upgrade my video card, but in opening up my computer, I only have PCI slots...
So, I also check ONLINE w/ compaq & it tells me I have the following:
Total expansion slots: Three PCI
Available slots: TWO PCI
Video graphics (AGP): 845GL

What does this mean? It says I have PCI slots...but that my video card is AGP? Is that right? I am SOOO confused! I have no idea what I'm doing.

So, essentially, I need someone to explain to me what that means and what kind of cards I can RUN....
Specifically, I want to know if I can run any ATI Radeon cards (will a 9xxx series work?) or Nvidia gfocre cards (6/7xxx series work?) on my pc.....
thnx for any help...


It means that your onboard video card (the one that came with the motherboard/cpu) is a AGP. No, you can't access it. But you can buy a PCI video card. You can run it IF your tiny Compaq power supply can run it. Anything over a FX5200 is suspect, and that MIGHT not work well either.

Check the specs at the Compaq website for that power supply. I'll bet it's 250-300 watt only, and you can't just go get a BIGGER one at CompUSA. They tend not to fit!Just looked up that pc...... it looks like it came with a 200 watt power supply.

http://hardware.gamespot.com/Compaq-Presario-S4100NX-3285-S-1-2

dl65

Hi all,

New to the forums and need some serious help.

I had a BITSER computer made about 6 months ago by a computer shop that has recently folded and closed up........conveniently my computer has now decided to play up. My chances of warranty fix are gone.

When the machine was initially built I was having temp problems with the CPU and it came down to a motherboard fault. Motherboard was replaced and had no problems for the last 5 1/2 mths. The components as follows:

ABIT motherboard
AMD 3000+ 64 bit CPU
512 DDR RAM
160 GIG Sata HDD
NVIDIA GE Force 5600 Video Card

Problem:

Initially I when the power button was pushed I the computer would power up for 1 sec then power down for about 1 -2 secs then power up giving one beep. The computer would power up past POST and go into windows xp home.

Now I start up from the power button and I get a two tone continuous beep and the computer won't boot up. Press the reset button and it fires up giving the 1 beep and past POST into windows xp home.

All BIOS settings are at default.

I did pull the RAM tonight and there was a bit of dust on it. Cleaned it and then replaced it, same problem.

Please help with any suggestions. If more information is required I will try to advise.

Thanks in advance guys.
More info:

ABIT UL8 motherboard

I just UPDATED the BIOS and on a manual power up it powered up, powered down, powered up and then one beep and into windows normally.

I have no idea.

ThanksThat's an over temperature alarm. Remove the case side and get some cold air in there via a room fan or similar to test.
Check the trigger levels in your BIOS settings.How do you get to your Bios settings?
Quote

How do you get to your Bios settings?

I have a Gateway AMD with Athlon chip running Win98SE and IE6. This computer will not recognize a slave drive, even after I set up Bios for Auto recog. Deleted Root Hubs in an effort to REORGANIZE, no luck. Have a HP2355 PRINTER on one USB and a camera on the other. I am getting exasperated to say the least. Nothing seems to work. Anyone have any ideas? The slave is set for slave (CHECKED and double checked) and the Master is set for Master. I can take the slave out in put it into another computer and it works fine.

JimZevron:

Do you see the slave hard drive in the BIOS setup? If the BIOS doesn't recognize it, Windows will not, either. Is this an external hard drive connected to a USB port? If so, Windows 98 SE may need drivers installed before it will be able to access the drive.

Let us know if you need more help.

DocBios is not RECOGNIZING it, and I don't know why not.

JimZevron:

The data cable (the one connected from the motherboard to the hard drive) might be reversed. The red stripe should connect to pin 1 on the motherboard and pin 1 on the hard drive. Be careful not to BEND any of the pins.

DocThe jumpers on both drives must be correctly set.
Some master set drives require different jumpering arrangements when used in a "master/none" situation to the jumpering required in a "master/slave" situation.

I recently got a hp notebook and would LIKE to arrange some sort of thing that would allow me to use internet on both of them without paying for another connection. How is it done?We can't guess your operating system or anything else about your computer so have a read:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=internet+connection+sharing&spell=1

<-----------A device called a router works well for this purpose. If you want a wireless connection for you notebook, you need to get a wireless router. Most "wireless" routers are actually wired & wireless in the same unit. So, you can CONNECT computers to them via a wire or by wireless connection if you have a wireless adapter connected to the computer for which you want wireless Internet connection.

Routers, like most things, come in various models with different FEATURES, and are made by multiple manufacturers. I have a router made by D-Link; the model is DI-524. We currently have 3 computers connected to it by cable, specifically a type of cable called Category 5, or CAT5; and, a laptop is wirelessly connected to it. By having this router, all computers share one Internet line, a DSL service. The main incoming phone line connects to a DSL modem, which is connected to the router. The computers, then, get their Internet connection from the router, not directly from the modem.

To use a wireless connection with your notebook computer, you'll need a wireless adapter installed in or connected to it. This adapter is a device to receive the wireless signal from the router.

Your wireless adapter could be the type that inserts into a slot on your notebook, such as this one: D-Link AirPlus G DWL-G630 Cardbus Adapter. Or, it could be one that connects to a USB port, such as the DWL-G122 Wireless USB Adapter.

I bought this D-Link AirPlus G Wireless Network Starter Kit, Model: DWL-922, from Best Buy when a $40 rebate was in effect on it. This package includes the DI-524 modem and the DWL-G122 Wireless USB Adapter.

>This FAQ< may be of help.Sorry for not googling it before, I know I should have done that before WRITING but.. :p

And thanks for elaborate answer soybean.

I HAVE AN OLDER MOTHERBOARD THAT SUPPORTS 4X AGP, CAN I INSTALL A 8X AGP CARD, AND WILL IT WORK? :-/As long as the card has the ability to "tone-down" and SLOW itself down to meet your requirement, I think it should work.

FlameMy video card (GeForce4 Ti4200) is rated 8X but my motherboard supports up to 4X. It works fine. If you look at the stated SYSTEM requirements on these 8X cards, I believe you'll often see it stated as 4X/8X or even 2X/4X/8X.I heard that a x8 AGP card in x4 slot may FIX CAPS LOCK problems too. We'll see if it works.D o D u o b u l b e l e

P o P s o t s t

(Double-Post)

hey on my dell latitude laptop, if t is started without a ps/2 mouse then it enables the square mousepad at the front. unfortunately the laptop is out of warranty and the cursor flicks all over the place. this problem is because of the faulty mouse pad, i know this because pressing on different parts of the pad helps, and also makes the cursor shoot off in another direction. i've TRIED to disable it in the control panel, but it does not even show up.

the solution so far has been to plug in a ps/2 mouse. tht disables it altogether.
there is only one ps2 plug on the machine though and i want to use a keyboard, and use the mouse as USB( the mouse has a adapter for ps2 ). if i do, though, it enables the mouse pad. is there a way to disable this altogether?

i am using win xp pro.
Have you looked in the device manager? The trackpad/touchpoint should be listed there. You can disable it. Alternatively, you can almost certainly buy a replacement on eBay.device manager, where's that? i know wherre it is on the control panel in Win98, but i am LESS familiar with winxp. i LOOK on control panel.
first it says pick a category.
i pick: printers and other hardware.
Then there is a "mouse" option so i pick that.
from there it says two options.

HID Compliant Mouse
PS/2 Complatible Mouse

Only the HID can be disabled. i did that and still problems.

Any suggestions still?Device manager: right-click "my computer"-->properties-->hardware-->device manager.looked under mice and other pointing devices- same devices. disable HID and the usb mouse does not respond. also human interface device is disableable, and that stops the mouse as well. :-? ps/2 mouse is not disableable.Yup; CHECKING the same on my system, and I see that apparently this cannot be done. Odd.

Are you happy to open up your laptop and physically DISCONNECT the touch pad?
just what i was thinking. unfortunatey i can not, it is family computer and parents are a little scared of me opening "the sacred box". i reckon i could in secret though.Okay, but be careful. Quite easy to break things in there!

just resently my CD rom drive stoped buring ( LITE ON COMBO SOHC 5232K ) after i installed a new mother board. it still opens programs and games etc, when i put it in, but when i use ( NERO ) to burn a disk, it keeps asking me to insert an empy disk, even when there is one insertred???

please help, thank you.Have you tried updating the drivers for the drive? Which OPERATING system are you using?

Flameim using windows xp home ed, no i havnt upgraded my cd rom's drive. its fairly old so i dont think there is an upgrade for it...
but if there is, maybe sombody can reconmend a site where i can download these upgrades?
if i cant...
guess i have to buy a new cd rom
If it is over a year old and used often or even just "fairly old" as you descrive, just get a new one. The optics can go out even though the door continues to open and close.

A DVD burner is less than $40. A CDRW is even less.my cd rom is only about 2 years old ( yeah i know, 2 years is a long time and its prob way outdated... ) anyway, i downloaded an update for my cd rom. and guess what! it still doesnt work...

i have now ruled out that my cd rom is out of date because it has the newest driver on it/ not to sure about firmware?? ( firmware on cdrom?? )

so i guess the computer store didnt install the cd rom right or maybe the settings in nero are what is causing this, which i highy dobt.

i havnt had time to TEST other buring sofware to rule out it isnt NERO causing the problem. this is real frustrating. everytime there is somthing wrong with my computer and i go fix it, somthing new always, ALWAYS GOES wrong the next day.

thanks for reading my post and maybe i can fix this problem before i take it back to the store Assuming it used to work right, and now it doesn't, and you didn't do anything to it inside the case, and no software changes have occurred, I would say it is shot.Quote

everytime there is somthing wrong with my computer and i go fix it, somthing new always, ALWAYS goes wrong the next day.

Greetings,
I have been trying to burn video from more than one mini dvd (1.4gb) onto a regular larger DVD (4.6gb) and cannot do it. I have a Dell 4700 Dimension, Windows XP and the DVD burning software is Sonic. After successfully burning one mini dvd onto the larger dvd I try to add to the larger one from a SECOND mini dvd but a box pops up asking if I would like to erase the current dvd. How come I just can't add onto the larger dvd given that it still has space? Is this a Dell issue? Or perhaps a DVD software issue? Please help.
Thanks Marlene:

Good CD and DVD burning software gives you the option to finalize the disc (so you cannot burn any other files to it) or to not finalize the disc (so you can).

I'm not familiar with Sonic. Check the documentation that came with the software.

Also, try coping the files from the mini-DVD to your My Documents folder and then burning the disc using those files, instead.

DocActually, the finalization is done on the Camcorder itself and, I believe Sonic is part of the NERO family?
The software came with the computer (bought ~ May of 2005).
I will try to do the copying to My Documents folder and then burning from there. I will not be able to do this until Frinday late afternoon or Saturday.
Thanks for the advice Sonic is a Roxio product and not a very versatile one.
What exactly are you trying to do with these multiple files? Do you want to join them to form one video or burn them to DvD as different chapters?

Finalisation may be CARRIED out on the cam but that's for the disks produced by the cam, not the one that you're trying to produce.I'm just trying to fit all of the contents of 2 mini dvds (~1.4gb each) onto one bigger dvd (~4.8gb). In other words, after successfully copying one mini dvd onto the larger one I just want to ADD onto the SAME larger dvd the contents of a second mini dvd. My current DVD burner (Sonic) is just not allowing me to do this. Instead, it asks if I want to erase the contents of the larger dvd in order to burn the current small dvd (second). It won't just add to the larger dvd even though it has plenty of space.
Should I CONSIDER maybe upgrading my current burner? Perhaps the upgraded version might have this function? Or should I just get another burner software? Which would be reccomended?
ThanksOK. Let us know how it goes.

I'm not sure of Sonics capabilities; I know it's limited but it should be OK in this regard.
Copy the contents of the mini disks to hard drive first. Make a folder on your DESKTOP with as many sub folders as you have mini disks. Call them folder 1, folder 2 etc.
Copy the contents of mini disk 1 to folder 1. Copy mini disk 2 to folder 2 etc. Now have Sonic make a DvD out of the contents of those folders.

If you wish to make a DvD that is viewable on a home player, then we'll probably need to take a different approach.

If you're thinking of buying DvD burning software, have a look at [highlight]DvDSanta[/highlight].

I am trying to find a compatible sound card for a hp proliant ML330 G3 Server running on Windows xp home edition on an Intel E7501 Chipset Server Motherboard SE7501BR2, Support Dual XEON CPU, 533FSB, SCSI, RAID, Dual ECC DDR266, PCI-X, w/ USB, VGA & Dual LAN. Please LET me know how to go about it. It has a 3.06 intel chip 256 mb of RAM and to scsi 36.4g hard drives at 15k rpm. thanks before hand .Natty:

Any new sound card that is Windows XP compatible should do. You might need to download and install Windows XP drivers from the manufacturer's Web site.

DocThe Doc is correct. PCI-X is backward compatible with PCI so any old Sounblaster cheapie, through Turtle BEACH up to Terratec and further should run OK.

I should have known this day was going entirely too well.

I came in to the back room and turned on my Dell Dimension

4400. When I came back into the room, I looked at it. The

screen was black and there was a message that said:

No Boot Device Detected. System Halted.

I tried rebooting a couple times and the message appeared

again. And again. I am thoroughly stumped. And very upset!

Here's my INFO...

Dell Dimension 4400
768 MB RAM
80 GB WD CAVIAR HDD (this is a new hard drive as of 12/05)
1.7 GHz P4 processor

Could it be my (new) hard drive... or (SHUDDER) the motherboard?

-----
Be Well,
Julz

Founder, Adult Survivors of Nearly Every Rotten Thing
(A.S.N.E.R.T.)Is the hard drive listed in the BIOS (F2 at boot time)?Thanks for the reply, GX1_Man, but I haven't the foggiest idea. I cannot get into the BIOS. I've tried many times. I hit the F8 repeatedly (how to get into the BIOS on this machine) and nothing happens. The only thing that will come up is that message... No Boot Device Detected. System Halted.

It does not beep at all either. :-/I told you above. F2 when you see the Dell logo, before you see the Windows logo.I have had that problem before ( I have a dell dimension 4600 ) it turned out to be that the BIOS battery had died, you could try and replace it and see.

i' have an old presario 5000la with 2 audio line out but only one works.
The obvious first: Have you ensured that the second output is not muted? It will have a SEPARATE control under the volume mixer.I don't have the option to control the second outputBring up the volume control. Click Options-->Properties. Under "SHOW the following volume controls", check all the boxes. Click OK. See if you have the correct colume adjuster now.I don't have it.
I wonder if there's any software like realtek soundman (avrack), to control the audio, my SOUND card is ess allegro.are u 100% sure that they are both audio outs? not one in and one out?

also what speaker setup do u have...

2.1
4.1
5.1
7.1

probably 2.1 if u have 2 outs.Quote

I don't have it.

Hardware sales are what it's all about. They advertise convenience and FLASH, not SAFETY, UNFORTUNATELY. SORRY you became ANOTHER statistic.

My floppy drive isnt doing anything when i put one in. And its not on my computer, only the cd drives are. Anyone KNOW what might be wrong? :-/There are three simple steps:

Check cabling.
Check BIOS settings.
Replace drive.

Floppy drives are pretty cheap at the moment but they'll be increasing in price shortly. It might be an idea to BUY a couple in now if you use one REGULARLY. Seen the price of diskettes lately?
Quote

Floppy drives are pretty cheap at the moment but they'll be increasing in price shortly

This is an odd error that I have never seen! I cloned my old 20gig IDE WD to a WD 160gig SATA and I get this error:

error starting os

I have tried REINSTALLING XP on it and then it pops up with a BAD dll file, the XP cd is not bad i have just finished using it on my kids computer with no probs, and to make things simple I removed all IDE CABLES from the mobo. I have never messed with SATA am I missing something?OLDER versions of Win XP had problems booting from an SATA drive make sure you do a clean install not a repair or quick format do a normal format and be sure you install the SATA drivers and any RAID controller drivers firstXP also has problems with such large drives in many cases. Partition it to something sensible.Quote

Older versions of Win XP had problems booting from an SATA drive make sure you do a clean install not a repair or quick format do a normal format and be sure you install the SATA drivers and any RAID controller drivers first

If i were to buy a 92mm FAN would it FIT if i had a 120mm there before? Because i found one that has a speed control on it.Look closely at the mounting holes in your computer case. Does it have two sets of holes for different size fans, and specifically for the size you WANT? EVEN if it does not, you could probably modify your case, i.e. DRILLS some holes, to install a smaller fan.

I was on the computer when all of a sudden the cursor of the mouse started moving across the screen without my control or any thing touching it.
What causes the cursor of the mouse to move across the screen relantlessly without USER control or anything touching it? HELP!Is your mouse one of those trackball-less mice? That HAPPENS to me too. Get a cheap black mousepad, they're at Wal-Mart for about 99 cents. It helps immensely.You're much more likely to get this kind of a problem with optical mice than with roller ball mice. Dirt can be the culprit.Failing batteries in powered mice is the major cause of this problem.i had this problem too with a ball mouse it was working fine for a long time. thry the mouse that isn't working on another computer. if it still doesn't WORK its PROBABLY BUSTED and just buy a new one

all of a sudden its starting to get really warm where the power CABLE is conected, it actually melted the power cable a bit.. and its weird because thats where most of the heat is comeing from. but only the red wire gets hot not the 2 black ones or the yellow. and it gets hotter faster when im playing games. i have installed the new DRIVERS and everything. any help WOULD be really greatIs the fan in the back working? At all? What type of computer is this?

What amazes me the most is that you play games on a PC with a pertially melted power cable. I would leave that off except for bare essentials (like posting here to get this fixed) and not use it until it gets fixed.



[edit]You have my apologies for the multi-post. CH crapped out for a minute. I KNOW it was just CH because other sites loaded fine. [/edit]haha no i fixed the cord but it gets REALLY hot still, and all fans are working. i continually have to turn off my computer to let the cord COOL down, i even borrowed my freinds extra power supply and tried that out with no luck.the computer was working great with absolutely no changes to it for close to a yearcan someone please help......It sounds like the card needs replacing.Melted power cable was my first hint.

I have an HP media ctr system that is now "unable to boot". System is BOOTED and then shuts down after 30 seconds or so giving me a "cpu fan failure, system is shutting down" message. The cpu is cooled by a passive heatsink and all other fans work. Upon reboot, the system shuts down after a few seconds which leads me to think it's a heat problem. I replaced the stock m-board with the same board (Asus stingray). I borrowed a working chip to go along with the new m-board and same thing. I'm thinking it's the powersupply even tho I'm getting a green light on the powersupply. I was able to check the bios and noted that CPU Fan faliure check was not selected. I'm at my wits end here so any help is greatly appriciated.

Note:
I reset the bios and removed the BATTERY on the stock m-board as well, with the same results.

Nothing new done to the systemm no new hardware or software. It's a 3 YEAR old system, which up until the problem was pretty darn stable RUNNING Media ctr 05. I unplugged everything except the nic, TV tuner card and video card (no HD, DVD, CD, card reader).Green light does not mean the PSU is good. I am amazaed that an HP "Media Center" does not have a fan on the CPU, but uses only passive cooling. Are you sure about that? What processor is involved? Is that a proprietary power supply?Proprprietary power supply It is an Antec board so i talked to them and they as well as HP informed me that it was not "standard". And YES believe it or not it is a passive cooler. I've removed it and will replace it with a fan/heatsink. CPU is a P4 2.4 HT. I'm going to replace the power supply and see what happens.Keep us posted.

I just received this Compaq Evo n600c laptop I bought on ebay today and there seems to be a problem with the speakers. I reinstalled the drivers and when I put a dvd in no sound comes out. I tried the earphone part and I noticed when I put the earphone jack halfway in the computer...the speakers work, and if I insert it all the way in, sound comes through one side of my headphones so I move the jack around and I get sound out of both earphones for a minute. so, maybe there's a short in a wire connection somewhere in the computer? Should I try to take it to someone maybe and see if I can fix the problem because it seems the speakers do work, if I put the HEADPHONE jack halfway in...I'm just trying every solution before I complain to the seller. Thanks so much for your help sounds like a BAD audio jack.

id complain a.s.a.p. before the seller thinks u did it and u want him to fix it for free.If you PUSH the jack in halfway and can hear sound in both earpieces, you are probably bridgin the left and right connections on the jack - i.e. both earpieces are receiving the same channel. A common fault on audio connections.

Replacing the jack socket on a laptop is NEVER an easy job. Repair MAY be prohibitively expensive.

I know this sounds really lame, but how do you open the case. It appears the face plate COMES off, HOWEVER, it belongs to someone else and I don't want to BREAK it. What a monster :-?The case is usually held by clips or screws... What do you mean the faceplate? Not the front of the computer I hope... We don't take that apart now... It's on the side of the computer... On an older conputer however, it probably has screws, and the case LIFTS up as a whole.

FlameThanks Flame! Sheeesh....I finally got it...it was so easy and I was MAKING it hard! Three screws on the back and it slides right out! Now I can finally check out the power supply Well Color me Red! Thanks again for your assistance!Hey, no probelm Come back and see us if you have any more questions

Flame

I've been hearing only the front speakers for some time. The back speakers work, to be sure, but I figured that ordinary mp3's were incapable of surround sound as they weren't created for surround. So, I was content to have only the front three speakers playing unless I was in a game like KNIGHTS of the Old Republic. However, on one of those rare moments I got out of my COMPUTER chair (I had to clean my room), I had music going on, a mp3 from edgen.com. I bent down next to my rear speaker, and lo and behold... sound!

I reset the BALANCE to favor the back and side. All speakers were set to 100%, but I took the front left, right, and center down to 50%. Then I turned it up. Now, I have sound out of all my speakers. I am of the mindset that GOOD music is meant not to be heard, but experienced, so this is good news for me -- very good news. However, I have to ask: What makes a sound "surround sound", then, if all my sounds can be heard out of all 8 speakers?Have you set Windows to know that you have this many speakers? If you don't configure the settings, don't expect it to work properly.

Flame

I have an HP running xp with ONBOARD video card I removed current drivers disabled the onboard in bios and installed a new ATI radeon 9200se plugged everything back up computer boots beeps three times monitor goes to SLEEP computer STILL runs but I see nothing, is the card bad? did I install wrong? I followed the instructions on the hp website for installing new card esactly. Does any one have any ideas?Try going back to your onboard video as a test.
If that fails then check the CARDS & ram are plugged in securely.
Let us know the results.

hi! i would like to ask if there is anyone here who knows how my problem can be solved? my cd rom keeps opening even though i am not pressing the button or controlling. it just pops out of the blue. what do you think is the problem? is it the software or what? i've been looking at troubleshooting sites and i still can't find the answer.. can anyone help me about it?
thanks!hi lene

that sounds pretty weird. the only thing i could think of would be a virus, or maybe some kind of weird cd-rom drive issue. ( but i think thats kinda FAR fetched)

HERES what u should do....

1. do a virus/spyware scan
2. run ccleaner (download from here http://www.ccleaner.com/)
3. run "hijack this" and post a log here. (download hijack this from here http://www.majorgeeks.com/download3155.html)How about some details on the drive and how old is it?Quote

hi lene

that sounds pretty weird. the only thing i could think of would be a virus, or maybe some kind of weird cd-rom drive issue. ( but i think thats kinda far fetched)

heres what u should do....

1. do a virus/spyware scan
2. run ccleaner (download from here http://www.ccleaner.com/)
3. run "hijack this" and post a log here. (download hijack this from here http://www.majorgeeks.com/download3155.html)

How about some details on the drive and how old is it?

Well, you have effectively ruled out the possibility of a hardware issue. Besides, hardware has a usage-life of approximately 5-7 years, depending on the brand, how well it was put together, etc. You still have time with your CD-ROM -- plenty of it. I wouldn't worry about that thing dying at this point.

Since you have no hardware issues to speak of, I am going to go with the angle that it's a rogue program causing this problem. If you haven't already, download HijackThis, put it in a folder on your desktop (new folder preferably, it's neater), run it, save a logfile, zip the logfile and attach it in your next post. If something's doing this on your PC, we'll find it.

It is possible to do this -- I've seen joke programs that try to access your floppy drive every minute. It's not much of a stretch to say the same can be said for the EJECT function of the CD-ROM. Now, obviously viruses can't destroy hardware (with the exception of a long-gone virus that changed monitor settings to dangerous settings), but they can do things like this, all in the name of "good fun". So, let's see what you've got going in your system. Maybe we'll get a few other viruses as well.

I just changed my hardrive and re-installed windows and since then my computer hasn't been able to FIND my CD and DVD drives. I BOUGHT new drives and replaced ribbon cable but still it hasn't been able to find it. EVERYTHING is set up correctly and I made sure the settings were RIGHT in the System Setup screen. Does anyone have any clue why this might be? I'm running a Dell 4600

Thanks...What is your Operating System?

Do you have the drivers for the DRIVE installed?
Was there a disk that came with the CD Drives?

I had my previous Aztech DSL600EU modem retired a few days ago.
The modem was previously configured to go through the router for multi-PC connection.
Now that I get a new Aztech DSL600E modem, I can connect to the internet through single PC manual dial-up, but cannot configure it from bridge to router mode.
When I visit http:\\192.168.1.1 where the configuration should be done, after entering the Username=admin & Password=admin, and after clicking the LOG In button, it doesn't load the following page, just blank.
Any solution?
Thanks.Reset it, usually via a small button or pinhole at the back. Upon it's reboot, drop any software firewall and try accessing it now.Same.
Still a blank page.Isn't http:\\192.168.1.1 for router configuration, not modem? To configure my D-Link router, I open my browser and type http:\\192.168.0.1 in the address box. I guess the actual number depends on the make and model of router.

Do you have the router connected now? Apparently not, unless you're online with another computer.

Was that modem provided to you by your ISP or did you buy it independent of your ISP? If you ISP provided it, I suggest you call their tech support to guide you through bridging the modem for use with the router.I bought the modem and router from computer shop.
I'm currently connected directly to my modem, by-passing the router. I'm connectiing through manual dial-up.
Aren't we have to configure the modem to carry out auto-dial-up before we can connect to the router/
Anyway I'll try again.
Isn't the Aztech DSL600EU a combined modem/router?It has only one port in one port out.
I have another 8 ports router to get another 4 PCs connected.

I follow the instruction in ftp://ftp.aztech.com/Malaysia/ADSL/DSL600E/DSL600E_bridge_routerv1.pdf but the problem is the page doesn't load after the initial log in page.Many DSL users, like me, use no "dial-up" procedure. If the modem is on - I normally leave it on all the time - then I'm online. If the modem is off, I merely turn it on and wait for it to detect the DSL line, as indicated by a solid green LED on the modem, and I'm online, assuming my router is also powered on.

Perhaps you have installed software from your ISP that emulates a dial-up modem. Do you normally have an icon in the system tray related to your modem? How do you normally "dial-up"? Right click on icon and select Connect, or what?Previously I'm doing it the way you describe, and that's after we configured the modem to do the auto-dialing RATHER than manual.
And that's my problem with configuring the modem to do so.
Now it can't dial automatically.As Backdated mentioned, it appears to be a combination modem/router, as indicated by http://www.aztech.com/prod_adsl_dsl600e.html. So, if you connect your 8-port router to it, you're actually connecting a router to a router. Does the DSL600E have ports on back for multiple computers? How many computers do you need to connect altogether?I think I was confused a bit before I check it out....the 8 ports DEVICE is actually a hub/switch, not router.
So I'm actually trying to connect the modem to the switch and then to 5 PCs.
The Aztech DSL600E modem has only one port.With a hub/switch involved, I think you may need to set up your network as shown at Ethernet Hub/Switch Network Diagram. As you can see, the Internet, i.e. modem, is connected to one computer, the Hub/Switch is connected to that computer, and the other computers are connected to the Hub/Switch. Obviously, this MEANS that one computer must on for the other computers have Internet access.Previously the network was not set up the way you described but it still work.



Line--------Splitter--------- Modem---Switch--------------- PC1/ PC2/PC3/PC4/PC5
|
Phone

Alright this may be a bit confusing so I am going to try to keep it real simple.

I am fixing my friends computer and got pretty much everything to work except and form of network connectivity.

I have 3 NICs in there and none work. The three are a Marvell Yukon (built in on motherboard), D-Link (pci connects but keeps getting limited or no connectivity), and a Dlink wireless (unable to start).

I have tried updating all the drivers to their latest drivers and I even rolled back to no avail.

Everything shows up with the right NAME and such but wont work whatsoever.

I have tried hardcoding an IP, that didnt work. I rebuilt the winsock stuff....still nothing. I uninstalled and reinstalled all the drivers and none work.

The only thing on the computer that doesnt work is the networking end.

Plus this is a clean windows xp install with sp2.

Please help. Thanks.Are all necessary services running and protocols installed?
Disable any firewalls and other security.
Ensure that all drivers are sourced from the VENDOR and not from M$ Updates.
Ensure that straight through and not crossover CABLES are in use and that those cables are known to be good.

Remove all add-in NICs and try the built in NIC first.
Connect it up, disable DHCP at the router and give the NIC a static IP. Set DNS to the router default IP (Same as gateway - Usually 192.168.x.1).
Navigate to the router setup page. Does it open?
If not, repeat the above with each addin card after DISABLING the onboard NIC.

If none work, what errors are generated?
Does Event Viewer hold any clues?
What does an ipconfig tell you?

hey all i have a wireless dsl router made by netgear
similar to this : http://www.netgear.com/products/details/DG834GT.php
it runs from a phone line in my mums BEDROOM,which runs all the way through to my room and connects into it. it sends the seignal to my adapter in my computer and my sisters computer. i recently have connection interrupted problems on my side,so wat i want to know it how do i connected the wireless router to my computer without using wireless. and how do i get my internet working by doin so.

thnx

chrisAs I understand it, you have the router in your room, which is where your computer is sitting, and you're still getting connection failure from your wireless signal. Is that RIGHT? And, is your sister's computer in another room, and is she getting a good signal? That's odd; you should have a strong signal if your computer is in the same room as the router.

If the router is in your room with your computer, connecting by wire is fairly simple. You have some ports on back of your router for cable connections, right? And, on the back of your computer, do you have a connector of the same type, called an RJ45 jack? Just get a CAT5 cable and connect it to the router and to your computer. If your computer does not already have an RJ45 jack, you'll need to INSTALL a network card, such as D-Link Desktop 10/100 PCI Network Card, in a PCI slot in your computer.ok mate thanks
im actually getting excellent signal and 54mbps but its every 2 minutesi get a 2second conection interrupted. So if i just plug the two CABLES in it should WORK? how do u connect to the internet once there connected?Try changing wireless channels first. A regular interruption such as you describe indicates a timed interference source although it may be something polling within the system.

I have an ABIT VT6X4 motherboard and currently have 192 MB of RAM with 1 slot open. I went out and bought a Kingston PC133 256Mb memory stick at Best Buy. Supposedly my computer can handle up to 1.5GB of storage. So there should be no problem, right? When I insert the card, the computer just beeps continously and has to be unplugged in order to turn it off. No matter what slot it is in, it will do this. My CPU says it is running at 2 volts but it says 3.3 volts on the memory stick. Does that matter?

Thank YouI suggest you visit http://www.kingston.com/ and see whether you can find your motherboad in their Memory Search feature. Sounds like you don't have the right memory for your computer.All RAM is not the same, nor is it compatible. There is more to it that PC133. Newer RAM (HIGH DENSITY) FREQUENTLY does not work in OLDER machines. It all depends on the motherboard. yeah, I think I figured out that my motherboard is just a piece of junk. I'm going to just buy a new computer! Well, it's not your motherboard's fault that you got the wrong RAM!

Good luck on your purchase.

If you watch streamed clips on the NET - movie trailers or complete movies. VIDEO blogs, sports etc - do these go on, and presumably EVENTUALLY clog up, your hard disk?

If they do, how are they deleted? When you watch there doesn't seem to be any INDICATION that they are downloaded.

This may seem a NAIVE question but I'm not clear about this.

Thanks for any replies.

I am not very technical but this is what I am trying to do. I hope someone can help. We have 2 COMPUTERS one is desktop and the other is laptop. I want to be able to use the laptop WITHOUT wires in another room and have both computers using the same dsl. I installed net gear on both computers and another gadget i think ubs port or something like that on the back of laptop something the salesperson said we needed if we wanted to have a wireless laptop The desktop is working fine with the wireless router When i go to the wizard on the laptop i get stuck on network name (do not know what to put in there) and the laptop keep looking for a phone NUMBER. help my q probably sounds dumb but it is the only way i can explain lol help anyone please....How about giving us the operating systems for both computers, and the names of the adapters, etc. you are using. (They are PRINTED on all the "gadgets".) It MAKES it a lot easier than guessing.

Also have a look here:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=how+to+set+up+home+network

I have tried to troubleshoot the VIDEO problem in a computer but failed to come up with a solution. The computer has no video. I tried the other working video card but could not get video. I tried swoping monitors but still can't come right. What might be the problem? Is it the motherbord that is at fault? I don't know how to test the motherboard.Did you install the correct DRIVERS and REMOVE all others from the system for the card?

FlameDoes your computer have onboard video, as well as the slot for a video card? What type of slot does it have for a video card?Thanks for your response.

The computer has an onboard video. I have tried both the PCI slots and the ISA slots but with no results.

Regards

ZakesZakes..... Sounds like you have an older motherboard ......... what operating system are you using ?
When you tried the pci vid card , did you go into the bios and disable the onboard vid card ?


dl65


Quote

I tried the other working video card but could not get video.

The computer has an onboard video. I have tried both the PCI slots and the ISA slots but with no results.

I'm having trouble getting a computer to connect to the Internet through a router.

We had two computers that were networked via a Linksys ethernet router. The modem and both computers were plugged into the router, and both had Internet access without any problems. We just bought a NEW computer and a wireless router with the intention of getting rid of the old router and setting up a combination wired/wireless network.

I'm not sure what I did, but now the Internet connection doesn't work through either router (the old cable one that used to work fine, and the new wireless one). It didn't work at all until I called the ISP tech support and fixed the set IP address, but now it only works when plugged directly into one of the two older computers.

The modem is fine; the router does recognize the Internet connection and the computer that's plugged into it.

To set up the wireless PART of the network, I need to be able to configure the router, but that means I need a computer with both Internet access and a connection to the router. So until I can get the computer to recognize an Internet connection through the router, I'm stuck.

Computer that has Internet access when plugged directly into the modem: Dell Dimension 4300 with Windows XP
New computer: Dell Dimension E510, also with Windows XP
ISP: Earthlink
Old cable router: Linksys EtherFast Cable/DSL Router model no. BEFSR41 ver. 3
New wireless router: Netgear 54 Mbps Wireless Router WGR614 v6

Please help?This router should more or less set itself up.
If you're running XP, is the UPnP service running?
It's good practice to always have your main computer wired to the router. That way, you always have control. Hard wire computer 1 to the router and get that up and running first. Worry about the wireless setup later.

Set up the TCP/IP properties for your NIC USING 192.168.0.1 for gateway and DNS for now. Set an IP of 192.168.0.3

Once wired, open the router control panel, usually by pointing your BROWSER at http://192.168.0.1
At this point, decide whether you want to use static IPs on your LAN. If no machines are constantly leaving and joining the network, static IPs are good practice and much easier to troubleshoot.

Once decided on whether you want to use static IPs or DHCP, post back.I tried that, but the Internet still doesn't work when it's connected to the router. I can access the Internet through a direct connection and through the old router now, though, so I'm back where I started. I'm looking at the Netgear tech support page and there are a few things I'll have to try when I have time. I'll come back here if none of that does anything. Thanks!Okay...I plugged it in again and this time I actually got to the router configuration page (but it was at 192.168.1.1). I set up the wireless connection, and the new computer recognizes the wireless access point.

But neither one has any internet beyond the router control panel. The computer that's wired to the router says that the LAN is connected and functioning, but it's not functioning. Actually, right now, the modem isn't plugged into the router or that computer, so I have no IDEA why it still says it's connected.

The computer that's wirelessly connected to the router says, "You are connected to the access point, but the Internet cannot be found."

Hello there

I have a dell dimension 5150 running Pentium4 ,3ghz 512ram and x600 ati express gfx

But here is my problem its saying the processor is overclocking its self, in sandrasoft its showing somit like this

Processor(s)
Model : Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 3.00GHz
Co-Processor (FPU) : Built-in
Speed : 3.86GHz
Performance Rating : PR8492 (estimated)
SMT Support : 2 UNIT(s)
Type : Standard
Rated Speed/FSB : 3000MHz / 4x 200MHz
Multiplier : 15x
Generation : 7th (7x86)
Revision/Stepping : 4 / 3 (0)
Microcode : MU0F4305
Serial Number : 0000-0F43-0000-0000-0000-0000

Processor Cache(s)
Internal Data Cache : 16kB synchronous write-back
Internal Trace Cache : 12kµops synchronous write-thru (8-way, 64 byte line size)
L2 On-board Cache : 2048kB ECC synchronous write-back (8-way, 64 byte line size)
L2 Cache Multiplier : 1/1x (equiv. 3860MHz)

Host Interface(s)
Front Side Bus Speed : 4x 257MHz (1028MHz data rate)

Upgradeability
Socket/Slot : Microprocessor
Upgrade Interface : ZIF Socket
Supported Speed(s) : 4.00GHz (or more)

Features
FPU - Co-Processor Built-in : Yes
VME - Virtual Mode Extensions : Yes
DE - Debugging Extension : Yes
PSE - Page Size Extension : Yes
TSC - Time Stamp Counter : Yes
MSR - Model Specific Registers : Yes
PAE - Physical Address Extension : Yes
MCE - Machine Check Exception : Yes
CX8 - Compare & Exchange Instruction : Yes
APIC - Local APIC Built-in : Yes
CID - Context ID : No
SEP - Fast System Call : Yes
MTRR - Memory Type Range Registers : Yes
PGE - Page Global Enable : Yes
MCA - Machine Check Architecture : Yes
CMOV - Conditional Move Instruction : Yes
PAT - Page Attribute Table : Yes
PSE36 - 36-bit Page Size Extension : Yes
PSN - Unique Serial Number : No
CLF - Cache Line Flush Support : Yes
Unknown : No
DS - Debug Trace & EMON Store : Yes
ACPI - Software Clock Control : Yes
MMX Technology : Yes
FXSR - Fast Float Save & Restore : Yes
SSE Technology : Yes
SSE2 Technology : Yes
SS - Self Snoop : Yes
HTT - Hyper-Threading Technology : Yes
TM - Thermal Monitor : Yes
PBE - Pending Break Enable : Yes
IA-64 Technology : No
DAZ - Denormals Are Zero : Yes

Extended Features

Advanced Settings
Data Error Checking : No
Fast Strings : Yes
x86 FPU COMPATIBILITY Mode : No
Prefetch Queue : Yes
Branch Trace Storage : Yes
In Order Queue Depth : 12 req(s)
Thermal Monitor Enabled : Yes

Machine Check Architecture Settings
No. REPORTING Banks : 4 bank(s)
Extended Machine Check Support : Yes
No. Extended Reporting Banks : 24 bank(s)

Variable Range MTRR Settings
MTRR 0 : 00000000-1FFFFFFF (0MB-512MB) WB
MTRR 1 : 1FF00000-1FFFFFFF (511MB-512MB) UC

Fixed Range MTRR Settings
MTRR 0 Range 0 : 00000000-0000FFFF (0kB-64kB) WB
MTRR 0 Range 1 : 00010000-0001FFFF (64kB-128kB) WB
MTRR 0 Range 2 : 00020000-0002FFFF (128kB-192kB) WB
MTRR 0 Range 3 : 00030000-0003FFFF (192kB-256kB) WB
MTRR 0 Range 4 : 00040000-0004FFFF (256kB-320kB) WB
MTRR 0 Range 5 : 00050000-0005FFFF (320kB-384kB) WB
MTRR 0 Range 6 : 00060000-0006FFFF (384kB-448kB) WB
MTRR 0 Range 7 : 00070000-0007FFFF (448kB-512kB) WB
MTRR 1 Range 0 : 00080000-00083FFF (512kB-528kB) WB
MTRR 1 Range 1 : 00084000-00087FFF (528kB-544kB) WB
MTRR 1 Range 2 : 00088000-0008BFFF (544kB-560kB) WB
MTRR 1 Range 3 : 0008C000-0008FFFF (560kB-576kB) WB
MTRR 1 Range 4 : 00090000-00093FFF (576kB-592kB) WB
MTRR 1 Range 5 : 00094000-00097FFF (592kB-608kB) WB
MTRR 1 Range 6 : 00098000-0009BFFF (608kB-624kB) WB
MTRR 1 Range 7 : 0009C000-0009FFFF (624kB-640kB) WB
MTRR 2 Range 0 : 000A0000-000A3FFF (640kB-656kB) UC
MTRR 2 Range 1 : 000A4000-000A7FFF (656kB-672kB) UC
MTRR 2 Range 2 : 000A8000-000ABFFF (672kB-688kB) UC
MTRR 2 Range 3 : 000AC000-000AFFFF (688kB-704kB) UC
MTRR 2 Range 4 : 000B0000-000B3FFF (704kB-720kB) UC
MTRR 2 Range 5 : 000B4000-000B7FFF (720kB-736kB) UC
MTRR 2 Range 6 : 000B8000-000BBFFF (736kB-752kB) UC
MTRR 2 Range 7 : 000BC000-000BFFFF (752kB-768kB) UC
MTRR 3 Range 0 : 000C0000-000C0FFF (768kB-772kB) WP
MTRR 3 Range 1 : 000C1000-000C1FFF (772kB-776kB) WP
MTRR 3 Range 2 : 000C2000-000C2FFF (776kB-780kB) WP
MTRR 3 Range 3 : 000C3000-000C3FFF (780kB-784kB) WP
MTRR 3 Range 4 : 000C4000-000C4FFF (784kB-788kB) WP
MTRR 3 Range 5 : 000C5000-000C5FFF (788kB-792kB) WP
MTRR 3 Range 6 : 000C6000-000C6FFF (792kB-796kB) WP
MTRR 3 Range 7 : 000C7000-000C7FFF (796kB-800kB) WP
MTRR 4 Range 0 : 000C8000-000C8FFF (800kB-804kB) WP
MTRR 4 Range 1 : 000C9000-000C9FFF (804kB-808kB) WP
MTRR 4 Range 2 : 000CA000-000CAFFF (808kB-812kB) WP
MTRR 4 Range 3 : 000CB000-000CBFFF (812kB-816kB) WP
MTRR 4 Range 4 : 000CC000-000CCFFF (816kB-820kB) WP
MTRR 4 Range 5 : 000CD000-000CDFFF (820kB-824kB) WP
MTRR 4 Range 6 : 000CE000-000CEFFF (824kB-828kB) WP
MTRR 4 Range 7 : 000CF000-000CFFFF (828kB-832kB) WP
MTRR 5 Range 0 : 000D0000-000D0FFF (832kB-836kB) UC
MTRR 5 Range 1 : 000D1000-000D1FFF (836kB-840kB) UC
MTRR 5 Range 2 : 000D2000-000D2FFF (840kB-844kB) UC
MTRR 5 Range 3 : 000D3000-000D3FFF (844kB-848kB) UC
MTRR 5 Range 4 : 000D4000-000D4FFF (848kB-852kB) UC
MTRR 5 Range 5 : 000D5000-000D5FFF (852kB-856kB) UC
MTRR 5 Range 6 : 000D6000-000D6FFF (856kB-860kB) UC
MTRR 5 Range 7 : 000D7000-000D7FFF (860kB-864kB) UC
MTRR 6 Range 0 : 000D8000-000D8FFF (864kB-868kB) UC
MTRR 6 Range 1 : 000D9000-000D9FFF (868kB-872kB) UC
MTRR 6 Range 2 : 000DA000-000DAFFF (872kB-876kB) UC
MTRR 6 Range 3 : 000DB000-000DBFFF (876kB-880kB) UC
MTRR 6 Range 4 : 000DC000-000DCFFMTRR 9 Range 7 : 000F7000-000F7FFF (988kB-992kB) WP
MTRR 10 Range 0 : 000F8000-000F8FFF (992kB-996kB) WP
MTRR 10 Range 1 : 000F9000-000F9FFF (996kB-1000kB) WP
MTRR 10 Range 2 : 000FA000-000FAFFF (1000kB-1004kB) WP
MTRR 10 Range 3 : 000FB000-000FBFFF (1004kB-1008kB) WP
MTRR 10 Range 4 : 000FC000-000FCFFF (1008kB-1012kB) WP
MTRR 10 Range 5 : 000FD000-000FDFFF (1012kB-1016kB) WP
MTRR 10 Range 6 : 000FE000-000FEFFF (1016kB-1020kB) WP
MTRR 10 Range 7 : 000FF000-000FFFFF (1020kB-1024kB) WP

PAT Settings
PAT 0 : WB
PAT 1 : WC
PAT 2 : UC-
PAT 3 : UC
PAT 4 : WB
PAT 5 : WC
PAT 6 : UC-
PAT 7 : UC

Performance Tips
Warning 222 : CPU speed higher than rated speed! REDUCE CPU speed.
Tip 210 : Mainboard supports faster CPUs, so the CPU can be upgraded when needed.
Notice 224 : SMBIOS/DMI information may be inaccurate.
Tip 2 : Double-click tip or press Enter while a tip is selected for more information about the tip.


also its looks like this when i start up my computer properties http://i1.tinypic.com/rsud6r.jpg

i havent overclocked or messed about with anything seems like its been like this for 3 weeks now since i got it! i cant play steam games or play battlefield 2 and swat4, steam games look like im in slow motion and everyone on the server can see my slow motioness while they run around me and when i play bf2 its like my aim is GETTING stuck, its not lag or connection problem, i have reinstalled windows and now i dunno what to do !

Any help would be great cheers ! :-?
go into the BIOS and put it back to the correct speed. have you tried that yet?

Specs:
Motherboard: ABIT KN8-SLI,nForce4 SLI, Socket-939, ATX, 4xSATAII, GbLAN, Firewire, PCI-Ex16
PSU: Fortron/Source Power Supply ATX 400W Bulk, 120mm fan, SATA, 20/24pin
CPU: AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ 2.0GHz Socket 939, 1MB, BOXED w/fan
Graphics card: Gainward GeForce 7900GT 256MB GDDR3, PCI-Express
RAM: TwinMOS PC3200 DDR-DIMM 1024MB Dual Pack Kit w/two matched PC3200 CL2.5 DDRs
Harddrives: Western Digital Caviar SE16 250GB SATA2 16MB 7200RPM
Western Digital Raptor 74GB SATA 8MB 10000RPM

I bought these items and assembled yesterday. My problem is that when I press the power button on the front of the chasis, nothing happens. When I power on the PSU, lights on the motherboard light up, but then when I press the power button, all of them except one go off.

The Power SW cable is in the right spot, and I've tried connecting the PSU to every slot on my motherboard except the PCI-E slot (Which I will try later). I've also tried starting the computer without the graphics card, and with only one harddrive as well.
I haven't tried to reset CMOS yet, but I'll try this too.

Could it be the PSU? The main power slot in the motherboard is 24 pins, but my PSU only has 20 pins.
Or could it be something else I've overlooked? I greatly appreciate any tips on THINGS to try.
Thanks in advance.CHECK your motherboard manual to SEE what power connector is required. Sometimes it just doesn't work with an incorrect one. If you spent all that $$$ on a new system, at least get a decent and correct PSU. your power supply isn't the problem. intel based motherboards use 24 pins. since you don't have one you only use 20. just like mine. hmm its not your power supply since you get power. check your connections again. if not one of the items you brought doesn't work. probably the CPU. Same thing happened to me. I bought a brand new CPU and it didn't end up working.

PC SPECS:

Win XP Pro
P4 2.4 Ghz Intel Celeron
512 Ram
80 GB Maxtor (w/ partition = 2x40GB)
ASUS P4P8S00S mobo (sp? very close)

PROBLEM:

I got this 160 GB Maxtor drive (free) from a place that was upgrading and had no use for it. IT HAS worked before (ive used it) and they said it works.

First: Last night, I attempted to install the hard drive. I was having detection problems an it got late, I gave up. I got up an tried it again, This time for some random reason, it was detected in Disk Management... So I set up my drive format etc. I put 46 gigs of music onto and it works GREAT. My internet goes off for some odd reason, So I reboot my computer, once it turns back on i get an error saying something about my primary IDE not detecting or something (might not be accurate error) So I gave it a shot and POWERED OFF and POWERED ON, it worked... So it boots XP fine, I get into my desktop, open up winamp to play some music, and nothing happens when I hit play... I check the drive and its once again not detected, which lead me here.

Things I Have tried:

Turned off computer, Checked IDE Cables see if plugged in correctly. its fine, new cables good to go.
Checked BIOS for secondary IDE Slave, [NONE].
Tried to AUTO DETECT in BIOS, nothing happens.
Tried to DETECT with Disk Management, No appearance.

I dont know what else to do but bring it to a help forum and see what ideas can be GIVEN. So I ask now for your help in SOLVING this idiotic problem I am facing...

P.S. Under No Circumstances will I format this drive.

Thank You,

sicknosisOK, just to be clear about this: You mentioned format in the middle. Did you say that you formatted it before, or that you checked the format? Just so we know. If I got a new drive the first thing I'd do is format it. Have you? I know you say you won't, but it may be the solution (though if you prefer, we'll try other things). And do you have a CD writer?In your post you mention you have an 80 gig drive (2x40) and this 160 gig drive. Are both physical hard drives installed? Are you trying to boot withthis 160 gig "find" or is it correctly jumpered as a slave? What operating system is involve? What files system on all drives? Do you have XP SP2 loaded? Are all hard drives seen in the BIOS?

Did you download the free diagnostics from Maxtor and try those? If not, then do so:

http://www.maxtor.com/portal/site/Maxtor/menuitem.57739892ade91820a727116291346068/?channelpath=%2Fen_us%2FSupport%2FProduct%20Support
Responding to your questions:

Dilbert:

From what I know, The drive was formatted then given to me. I formatted the drive, put my songs on it then it didnt work.

Yes I have CD/DVD Writer with plenty of CDs/DVDs

GX1_MAN

I am booting of the 1rst partition on the 80 Gig (C:) I have my 2nd Partition (D:) as a storage drive. The third hard drive is G, after my cd roms. It is correctly jumpered for a slave, but like I said before I did get it to work yesterday its like it glitched out or gave up.

XP SP2, 80 GIG is found in BIOS

I have not downloaded the diagnostics, I will now.

TO ADD ON TO THIS INSANITY

When I booted my computer up this morning I checked my drives and it was there again. All my stuff is on it. It is functioning fine...

The only things I can think of now are some bios glitch with the drive or something is wrong with the driveLet us know after the diagnostics are done.

So you formatted this big drive after you got it?Sounds like it. And it's what I would do, unless I absolutely needed something off that drive. Can't be too cautious when it comes to computers. Plus remember that ALL hard drives die SOMETIME and that is NOT a secure medium for irretrievable data. Best to backup to CD or DVD.Preferably a rewritable set of disks so you can add to them as you go. Ok so heres my dilema

I cant get diagnostics to work because my A: drive isnt finding the floppy disk.

And even if I could get it to work I wont be able to find the hard drive because its not being detected at all..

I can tell this hard drive is brand new, 6-10 months old I couldnt see anything being wrong with it my last idea is to wait until it works again copy my files back onto my old drives. Go buy a 160 GB and switch drvies and take it back. Right now i dont really feel like doing that so any other ideas?I don't have all the answers, but in the meantime: If you get the thing to work, even once, my advice would be to back-up the files onto CD's and format. I know you don't want to do that, but it may be what we need. Assuming you have an operating system install disk.What he said. I have run into simmilar problems with HDDs. One thing that has caused me grief was a failing floppy drive. I noticed in your post you couldnt get the Maxtor util working due to floppy recognicion issues. My floppy MADE intermittent failure of ide devices and was an absolute nightmare to diagnose like the issue you are seeing. The other thing I have run into is older MB BIOS but normally this would manifest in improper size read of the drive in BIOS.

OK.. I think I saw this in here SOMEWHERE else, but I can't find it.. so I'll ask again. I recently bought my brother a new Sceptre LCD X9G SOMETHING er other... anyway.. WHENEVER it loses PC signal, it starts flashing a RGB spectrum. This seems normal, but it not only does this when the computer goes into POWER save mode, it also does this at reboot. The problem is, it doesn't pick the signal back up until it's almost finished loading windows... meaning... You totally lose the ability to view the boot process and POST.

Any ideas of how to get this lcd to recognize the signal faster? I'm hoping the manf will respond with a firmware update or something...

Thanks.

I have a ViewSonic VA 720 LCD monitor that has STARTED to go dark, or dark blue SCREEN. I can see the desktop, but it's only in two colors dark blue and LIGHT blue. Also none of the adjustment controls seem to work. No lightning or spike damage noticed, this happened within several weeks.
Is it only two years old but out of warranty. Is it worth it to have it looked at, or should it be deep sixed?

TimsterTry it on another machine just to make sure, but it SOUNDS like you may be buying a new one soon.Agreed. It's unlikely to be worth the repair COST.

please some1 helpme...
my computer can be start normally but there are no sound of RAM....
the power button is on but it cannot display anything on the monitor....
it is like no process happen but the FAN is running...im not sure what is the problem is...
the motherboard or the RAM...i have try to change the RAM but there are nothing change..
can some one tell me the problem..

:-?All RIGHT, here...

It isn't the RAM, obviously. You managed to rule that out.
When you say no sound of RAM, you mean no whirring coming from the computer?
Any beeps?Oh... My...

These forums make my day..

Quote

i have try to change the RAM but there are nothing change..

"my computer can be start normally but there are no sound of RAM...."?