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how do u run the diagnostics, i can't find it anywhere Quote from: patio on April 10, 2008, 01:50:55 PM

I'd STILL run the diagnostics for a little peace of mind...

Hi - my laptop recently died and I need access to it's hardrive - I have it linked into my home PC via a IDE Combo adaptor I just bought that goes into the USB port.

Disk Management is finding the hardrive, but it is not assigned a letter and I can not access it (it's not showing under "My Computer"). Under disk management it is listed as "Disk 6" and is showing as "healthy" and "active"., yet I simply can not access it anywhere. Even in Disk Management when the option is there to "open" it simply does nothing.

If I right CLICK it to try to allocate a letter (which I thought may be the problem) the allocate letter option is not available.

If anyone is able to give any guidance I would be eternally grateful, as I'm tearing out my hair here!

My PC is an Advent Home media jobby, which I'm sure I paid for too much for from PC World, and I'm running Windows XP Media Centre Edition Version 2002 Service Pack 2.

Help! Please?
SteveI don't trust a USB connection for this operation...there are 2.5" to IDE connectors out there for about 10 or 12 bucks
Was the laptop also XP or MCE ? ?
You may want to try the other connector and see if anything changes in Disk Management...Hi - and thanks for the response. The Laptop was also XP - but running Home Edition.

the adapter I have is one that plugs to the IDE on the laptops hardrive (which i have out from
the Laptop) and it then plugs to the USB on my media centre PC. It is also seperately powered.

Oh, and I have tried other USB's on my media centre PC but that doesn't OFFER any difference.
Regards,
Steve


Hooks it directly to an IDE connection on a desktop machine...Many thanks - I'll seek one out and give it a go. Would it simply be referred to as an IDE to Desktop connector?Yep. They should know what you need...Hi - just in case it's of any use to other readers in the future I managed to solve the Hardrive situation. Using the IDE Adaptor to the USB port.

The problem was I was running Norton Go Back on the Laptop, which was effectively blocking the access to the Hardrive from the Laptop. Using a PARTITION edit executable (PTEDIT32.exe) I got online I was able to alter the access details for the Laptop hardrive (from 44 to 08 in the very top left hand box) that made Windows XP recognise the hardrive and has given me full access to my old files etc.

I suspect it will now have problems if I wanted to put it back into the Laptop, or that I would have to ADJUST it back to it's original settings, but the main concern for me was getting the info off the old hardrive.

I appreciate this is not a very detailed guide to how I fixed it, but I just thought I'd post this as a bit of a nudge in the right direction for anyone else who experiences similar problems in the future.

Suspect it's the skip for the Laptop now though...

Cheers to Patio for the responses last night.

All the best,
SteveGreat News...

I had nothing but issues with GoBack and stopped recommending/using it years and years ago.
I now strictly use Acronis True Image for all my backup solutions and wouldn't go back to Symantec if they paid me...

Glad you're fixed up and stop by anytime...Quote from: patio on April 11, 2008, 11:06:17 AM

Great News...

I had nothing but issues with GoBack and stopped recommending/using it years and years ago.
I now strictly use Acronis True Image for all my backup solutions and wouldn't go back to Symantec if they paid me...

Glad you're fixed up and stop by anytime...

Greetings, first of all, am not sure if this has been discussed before, but I couldn't find any similar THREAD.

Anyways, for two years I've had 2x1gb 533 DDR2 RAMs, now, I want to upgrade to 4gb DDR2 RAMs, but the thing is, I am not sure which RAMs to get, the one of 667MHz or the 800MHz. Because of my CPU Quad Core 2.4 GHz Q6600 1066, so it PREFERABLE to add 667MHz of RAMs or 800MHz? Also, I have Intel Motherboard 975xbx2.

Thanks...the faster the RAM, the better. so 800 MHz is, of COURSE, better then 667MHz, assuming your motherboard supports DDR2 800.Thanks a lot homer, I appreciate your help.

The reason I had to ask, is because I've been told, 667MHz of RAMs work better with 1066 of CPUs.

Thanks again!

Note that unless you take out the 533's, the new ram may not perform up to specs. RAM only GOES as fast as the lowest common DENOMINATOR. If you want to upgrade to 4gb 800MHz, you'll need to get all new ram.
http://www.crucial.com/kb/answer.aspx?qid=4032

Hi,

right, after I've PLACED my NEW motherboard into my COMPUTER, and got it to boot my WINDOWS cd

after that, is that when u install the motherboard's drivers, and all the other drivers.

and is there an order to which u install first, LIKE motherboard cd then, graphics card then ectDrivers are installed after the OS.
MBoard first.
Then video
Then any others.

unless you say this quote:
Quote

Run Forest! Run!

you have been terminated

you can do that except you would have to connect one monitor using VGA and another with S-Vid or something else.

Quote from: macdad- on April 11, 2008, 06:02:25 AM

you can do that except you would have to connect one monitor using VGA and another with S-Vid or something else.

Why VGA or S-Vid? Sppose you have 2 graphics cards which have only DVI ports, couldn't you just use the DVI cables to connect to the monitors (provided that monitor is also has a DVI port)?

Quote from: macdad- on April 11, 2008, 06:02:25 AM

you can do that except you would have to connect one monitor using VGA and another with S-Vid or something else.

Why VGA or S-Vid? Sppose you have 2 graphics cards which have only DVI ports, couldn't you just use the DVI cables to connect to the monitors (provided that monitor is also has a DVI port)?

I have an old medion laptop that has a DARK screen to it. I can see the desktop icons if I adjust the tilt of the screen when the light is on in the room. If the lights aren't on. I can see absolutely nothing. A flashlight held at an angle will also HELP to see images and text. The system is running windows xp and has nvidia graphics. When it boots up I have a bit of a time finding the pointer so that I can log on. The white box for my log in is easier to read than the login icon or name. This problem occured once before and simply corrected itself. On occasion one of my BOYS has put it down roughly on the car seat or thrown my briefcase onto it in the front seat and if it was glass it probably WOULD have cracked. HELP!It sounds like the inverter board in the lcd display has failed. You can buy replacement inverter boards for some lcds online and install it yourself, or you can take it to a repair shop and see if they could do it for you.I've experienced this problem twice before. The first was solved by pressing Fn-F8 or whichever buttons on your keyboard change the display mode (should have a picture of a computer screen or say something like "LCD/CRT"). As it turns out, my 1-year old nephew had been bashing the keys and had disabled the LCD portion of it by a stroke of bad luck.
The second was more closely related to your problem, with the display unreadable unless a flashlight is focused over it. The problem is likely the inverter, which can be easily and fairly cheaply ($50) replaced. However, as was the case for my old laptop, there's chance that the LCD bulb has burned out. Though bulbs are cheap, bulb replacement without damaging the screen is difficult at best and impossible at worst for many laptops. Unfortunately, the only way to troubleshoot is to invest in the inverter (system specific) and hope that it fixes the problem.

Good luck!

I have a Sony with a 14GB C Drive and a 97GB D Drive. the C Drive barely operates now i have unfortunately installed EXPLORER 7 and can't get rid of it. How can i increase my Drive capacity? i just installed one GB of ram and it does not improve my performance. i can not EVEN load a simple Myst game now. PLEASE help. should i simply give up and save for a new comp? thanks for your input, CroftonMore details of your computer would be helpful.
How OLD is it? What version of windows? what model?C, and D are separate hard drives, or two partitions of a same hard drive?

I cannot display a document for scanning, and cannot display hp DIRECTOR? I have had the machine for a good while, but it has just decided, it does not want to scan? I have TRIED reinstalling, no LUCK. does anyone know the PROBLEM, and its remedy. THANKS, JohnTry it with another working computer.

Hey guys,

Ive been having issues with my computer for a LONG time and I'm looking for some suggestions before I decide to throw it out the window ... or just into the hands of someone that repairs computers.. ANYWAY.. I have a custom-built computer.. Windows XP SP2.. Its probably about 4 or 5 years old now..

About 6 or 7 months ago, I started getting stop errors with "random" errors it seemed every time I would watch video.. After doing some research I thought that it was probably my onboard video card acting up. I decided to go buy a video card and see what happened.... Well this made things worst than before. The stop errors came more frequently.

After taking out the new video card and re-installing the drivers for my onboard card, I did some more research... Since every stop error I was getting was so random and hardly ever the same, I thought that maybe I was dealing with some bad RAM.. I went out and bought 2 extra sticks of RAM to check the sticks of RAM that I already had because I thought they both were corrupted.. AGAIN i still get the stop errors.. I even tried doing a complete format on my partition and installed a clean version of XP. It took me a LONG time to do this, because I was STILL getting stop errors while I was trying to format AND install. I got in the computer and jiggled around the hard drive wires and made sure everything was secure. I finally got everything installed back onto my computer, drivers and all... and I was kind of back to where I was at in the beginning. Getting stop errors whenever I goto a site that has too much info on it or watch a video.. Again, these are completely random.. never the same.

FINALLY after much exhaustion and just living with the errors for a couple of weeks, I decided to say *screw it* and go get me a new hard drive because I thought that this HAD to be the problem.... I mean i already replaced the video card, 2 sticks of RAM... so now I went to the hard drive. My old hard drive was a 40G, so I thought I found my problem right there. I bought an IDE 160GB hard drive and installed it today.. after HOURS of going through the whole installation process....drivers, programs, etc.... MY COMPUTER IS STILL RESTARTING!! As you can imagine, I am tired of spending money on things that are not fixing the problem. I was just wondering if a faulty 40-pin connector cable could be doing this?? I just used the cable that was with my old hard drive with my new one.. Could a simple connection wire been the culprit all along??? I'm open to suggestions!!!! ANY....... or should i just get over my pride and take it to someone to get fixed.

Thanks for any suggestions!!

(sorry this was so long)Don't apologise for it being long...it's refreshing once in awhile to get details.
It sounds as if you have done a great JOB so far on troubleshooting...
Sorry the results have not yet rewarded you.

Here's what i would from here:

DLoad and run MemTest...even though you replaced the RAM it is still suspect given the symptoms...let it run a few hours.
Any errors at all mean bad RAM.

Replace the IDE cable...make sure it is an 80 conducter 40 pin cable. They do go bad.

In Device MANAGER find the Primary IDE controller...right clik it and select Remove...you'll get a warning message. Ignore it and re-boot.

Last but not least borrow a known good PSU of the same wattage or greater and swap it in there to see if things calm down...unstable power can also cause these conditions....

Good Luck and let us know.So obviously I want to try the most non-invasive procedures first before I go buy anything else, lol... So, what exactly am I doing when I remove the Primary IDE Controller? Am I just deleting the drivers and reinstalling when windows reboots?

Gonna try memtest too this morning and see what happens..


Thanks for all the suggestions!! I'll keep you postedYou could also try just using one stick of ram, then SWAPPING with the other stick if the problem persists. Are you also sure this is the correct ram for your mainboard.Yeah, its the right kind of RAM. I purchased the same type that was in it originally. DDROK, try just using 1 stick at a time. Let use know if that works. Also when you say "DDR". What type of DDR is it? e.g ddr400

I'm Just making sure it is definitely the right ram, it maybe ddr but is it the right type for that mainboard?
Removing the Primary IDE controller is in case it's drivers have become corrupted...Windows will automatically re-install it upon re-boot.
It's a shot in the dark but worth trying.Hey guys, Sorry for the late update.. I FINALLY figured out my problem thanks to everyone's suggestions. This probably sounds really stupid of me, but I did not know that the different speeds of each kind of RAM mattered to the motherboard. Apparently it does, because that was problem. I was running RAM that was way too fast for my motherboard I think. Anyway, thanks everybody for the suggestions and help.... I really appreciate it. Just wish I hadn't spent so much money on this when it was something so simple....... oh well...i got new RAM, hard drive, and video card.... its like i got a new computer lol.. At least this was a lesson learned.... now i know haha

So I have an EXTRA power supply laying around. I was wondering if I could use this power supply



in exchange for this one
At 380 watts output, it should be fine for a lower-end processor and video card...
what kinds of components do you plan to install?Its a AMD 64 bit processor I believe 2800. GOT it around 3 years ago.Okay, and what kind of video card are you planning to use?i dunno the specifics but I know it came with the MOTHERBOARD. Just 128 mb. really small card. no agp card or ANYTHING like that.I think that should be just fine, especially if you're not gonna load it down
with a bunch of peripherals.an 8500GT graphics card will run with only 300 W power supply.

Or you can just get a more basic card if you are not into the GAMING graphics that you'd want a good FPS for even at lowest resolutions.

hello everyone .

just asking around whether this mid-range CARD is much better than 8600 or does it have the same performance? and can this card hold up for some time befor it crumples for new high-end game,say like two years or so?

thanksI heard that the 9600 uses the same design as the 8600. They just changed the number to MAKE people think it was the new thing.....the 9600 has some new thing's

i think it's a bit better

if you want it's full power (speed), make SURE you have a PCI-E x16 '''2.0''' slot on you motherboard

the 2.0 just make's it a bit fasterQuote from: Gilgamesh21 on April 10, 2008, 10:09:15 AM

hello everyone .

just asking around whether this mid-range card is much better than 8600 or does it have the same performance?

hello everyone .

and can this card hold up for some time befor it crumples for new high-end game,say like two years or so?

Quote from: saint_hades on April 11, 2008, 02:45:47 AM

not really

but is this GOOD
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000FVTPF0/ref=s9subs_c5_at3-rfc_p_74_14_5_4_3?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=0JPG865CGJW9M488SQ8R&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=139042391&pf_rd_i=468294

because I don't really have a budget but i would RATHER not pay more for the same thing if it wont make MUCH difference

Most SATA drives do not have jumpers.
I wouldn't recommend the Turbo setting in the BIOS.
Where was it set to run in IDE Mode ? ?Quote from: patio on APRIL 11, 2008, 03:24:55 PM

Most SATA drives do not have jumpers.
I wouldn't recommend the Turbo setting in the BIOS.
Where was it set to run in IDE Mode ? ?

Hi,

I wonder if anyone can HELP me with this. My company (in the UK) is opening an office in Denver, COLORADO. Amongst other things, we supply our customers with a wide varity of hardware so I need to locate a hardware supplier in Denver. Specifically, I need SOMEWHERE that can supply and build a server with this spec:

Super Micro X6DVL-EG2,Dual Xeon,intel E7520, 2xGigabit LAN, 4xDDR-2 DIMM motherboard. (It must use this board so that our disk image will work)
Dual Xeon 3.4 GHz 2MB cache, 800FSB, 604pin (intel) CPU
2Mb RAM
1U Case 420W PSU

In the UK I use this company:

http://www.rackservers.com/

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks

NickI use newegg.com for a lot of my purchases...great pricing and a very good Customer Service dept.
Not sure if they would have everything you need but it's worth a looksee.A lot of businesses use CDW for computer parts and supplies.
TigerDirect also has a business side of their company.Quote from: patio on April 11, 2008, 09:03:50 AM

I use newegg.com for a lot of my purchases...great pricing and a very good Customer Service dept.
Not sure if they would have everything you need but it's worth a looksee.

I apologize in advance for the lengthy post!
I recently purchased a refurbished desktop without a pre-installed operating system from a fairly reputable online dealer. Upon the initial powering up/ windows XP installation attempt (XP CD from an older computer that is no longer used), I received an error message informing me that the operating system could not be installed because no hard drive was found. After I powered down and powered up again, the display disappeared. Next, I looked at the hard drive and found that the power cable was unplugged. After fixing that problem, the display would still not turn on. A STRANGE thing occurred when I unplugged the display cable from the computer - the monitor turned on. When I reinserted the cable, the monitor would turn off.
I installed a GeForce 8600GT PCI-express card (which connects directly to the motherboard, with no SECONDARY power supply) and this did nothing to better the situation (same blank screen with connected cable, monitor flickers on with a "no signal" message after removing cable)
Could this be a driver problem? If so, is there a way to load display/motherboard drivers without having access to the computer's display? Or does this sound more like a motherboard problem? If it is the latter, what can I do to remedy the situation?
Here are my system specs:
AMD Athlon x64 3500+
1 GB RAM

I appreciate any advice!Actually it sounds as if it is a monitor cable problem...i hope you didn't dis-connect it with either the computer or monitor powered up.I did, and from reading various posts I now know that that's a big no-no. The monitor cable's fine- it WORKS with my laptop. Is there any way to tell if the motherboard's fried?1. Refurbished Desktop. Can you provide more info on the desktop hardware? Make and Model Number, if "brand name" computer; otherwise "Make" and "Model Number" of motherboard?

2. Power On Self Test (POST). Any error indication(s) during POST? Does the computer "beep" during startup?Quote from: patio on April 09, 2008, 09:25:20 AM

Actually it sounds as if it is a monitor cable problem...i hope you didn't dis-connect it with either the computer or monitor powered up.

Quote from: patio on April 09, 2008, 09:25:20 AM

Actually it sounds as if it is a monitor cable problem...i hope you didn't dis-connect it with either the computer or monitor powered up.

That is...crap because i've done that a few times with my monitor perhaps in my monitor?

Quote from: Adizzle28 on April 09, 2008, 04:01:16 PM

Quote from: patio on April 09, 2008, 09:25:20 AM

Actually it sounds as if it is a monitor cable problem...i hope you didn't dis-connect it with either the computer or monitor powered up.

That is...crap because i've done that a few times with my monitor perhaps in my monitor?

I don't understand. Are you voting "for" or "against" disconnecting video cables while power is on?

Are you simply asking a question? Or are you trying to "hijack" this thread? Because if you are, I vote we dig up our "guns" and join you!

When I turn on my Lacie external hard drive (160GB, USB2) Windows Vista Home Premium tells me I can't use the drive until I format it. I've been using the drive for years and it has over 120GB of data on it. Needless to say, I don't want to LOSE this data. Can anyone recommend me a good (and preferably free) recovery program so I can still recover the files from that hard drive?

Thank you.What's the file format of the external drive? NTFS? FAT32?

It was FAT32 but I converted it to NTFS about half a year ago. It has always worked without problems up til now. Sorry, I forgot to mention that.How is it being reported in Disk Management ? ?
Right clik My Computer and select manage...then disk management.
You may want to re-boot FIRST.I can't tell right now, it's busy analysing the drive so I can't access it now.
Rebooting didn't help, that was one of the first things I TRIED. I'm fairly positive the MFT is messed up, so I'm looking for a reliable program to recover my data from the drive.I'm trying Disk Recovery Wizard, something I found here, but it's been scanning my drive for over 27 hours now and has BARELY reached 2% of the PROGRESS bar. Is it supposed to take this long on external hard drives (USB2) or is this program useless? The drive has a lot of activity going on, so I assume the program is doing something. But at this rate, finding the files on the drive will take weeks and recovering them might take even longer!
On top of that, I'm not even sure if this program is any good. I don't know if it'll be able to recover my data...

So who can suggest a good data recovery program, in case this one turns out to be a waste of time?

someone OFFERED to FIX my computer and its brand new now. THANK you so MUCH. the Verizon disk seems to be scratched it does the same thing. everythings FINE now.

Today I realized that my mouse is doing something weird when I right click. Right clicking with the mouse opens a box like usual, but it opens a box and closes it again many TIMES very fast. It looks like the box flashes 4 or 5 times before staying open. It's as if I right clicked MULTIPLE times. But my mouse doesn't always do this. 90% of the time it will do that but sometimes it opens the box just like normal. I tested it by right clicking the icons on my DESKTOP and noticed that it always does multiple "clicks" when the box appears upward and rarely when the box appears downward. I uninstalled the mouse drivers, restarted the computer and reinstalled the drivers but this had no change. I don't KNOW when this started, I only realized what it was doing today. Any help is much appreciated.

This information I got from running the dxdiag utility. I attached the whole dxdiag report if needed

Operating System: WINDOWS XP Professional (5.1, Build 2600) Service Pack 2
System Manufacturer: Dell Inc.
System Model: Dell DV051
BIOS: Phoenix ROM BIOS PLUS Version 1.10 A03
Processor: Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 2.80GHz (2 CPUs)
Memory: 1014MB RAM
Page File: 427MB used, 2013MB available
DirectX Version: DirectX 9.0c (4.09.0000.0904)

+ HID-compliant mouse
| Vendor/Product ID: 0x046D, 0xC016
| Matching Device ID: hid_device_system_mouse
| Service: mouhid
| Driver: mouclass.sys, 8/3/2004 21:58:34, 23040 bytes
| Driver: mouhid.sys, 8/17/2001 12:48:00, 12160 bytes

[recovering space - attachment deleted by admin]Try mouse on another computer, or try another mouse on this computer.I had a mouse that did that. The little switches under the buttons lead a hard life, and can suffer from contact bounce. If swapping the mouse buttons in Control Panel makes the problem change sides, that would indicate getting a new mouse.
Quote from: Dias de verano on April 12, 2008, 11:19:49 AM

I had a mouse that did that. The little switches under the buttons lead a hard life, and can suffer from contact bounce. If swapping the mouse buttons in Control Panel makes the problem change sides, that would indicate getting a new mouse.

hello new to forum. i have a sony vaio with no sound whatsoever !! i was reading a post by benyly. it said to download and run a EVEREST program and post it and someone would help. well i ran the program saved to text but dont know how to get it to where you can see it.. please help me help you help me.. or something like that thanks alot.. kenny Copy and paste the " Computer Summary " portion and post it here... I --------[ EVEREST Home Edition (c) 2003-2005 Lavalys, Inc. ]------------------------------------------------------------

Version EVEREST v2.20.405
Homepage http://www.lavalys.com/
Report Type Report WIZARD
Computer SONY-AB09EE0B71
Generator Kenny
Operating System MICROSOFT Windows XP Professional 5.1.2600 (WinXP Retail)
Date 2008-04-07
Time 20:16


--------[ Summary ]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Computer:
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional
OS Service Pack Service Pack 2
DirectX 4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
Computer Name SONY-AB09EE0B71
User Name Kenny

Motherboard:
CPU Type Mobile Intel Pentium IIIE, 750 MHz (7.5 x 100)
Motherboard Name Sony Corporation PCG-Z505LSK(UC)
Motherboard Chipset Intel 82440BX/ZX
System Memory 192 MB (SDRAM)
BIOS Type Phoenix (08/25/00)
Communication Port Communications Port (COM1)
Communication Port ECP Printer Port (LPT1)

Display:
Video Adapter ATI RAGE Mobility (SONY) (8 MB)
3D Accelerator ATI Rage P/M Mobility
Monitor Digital Flat Panel (1024x768)

MULTIMEDIA:
Audio Adapter Yamaha Native DS1 Audio CODEC

Storage:
IDE Controller Intel(R) 82371AB/EB PCI Bus Master IDE Controller
Disk Drive SAMSUNG MP0603H (60 GB, 5400 RPM, Ultra-ATA/100)
Disk Drive Sony MSC-U01 USB Device
SMART Hard Disks Status OK

Partitions:
C: (NTFS) 57262 MB (50434 MB free)

Input:
KEYBOARD Standard 101/102-Key or Microsoft Natural PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse PS/2 Compatible Mouse

Network:
Network Adapter D-Link AirPlus Xtreme G DWL-G650 Adapter (192.168.1.104)
Network Adapter Intel 8255x-based PCI Ethernet Adapter (10/100)
Modem Generic SoftK56

Peripherals:
Printer Microsoft Office Document Image Writer
Printer Microsoft XPS Document Writer
USB1 Controller Intel 82371AB/EB PIIX4 - USB Host Controller
USB Device Generic USB Hub
USB Device Sony Memory Stick Reader/Writer
Battery Microsoft AC Adapter
Battery Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery


--------[ Debug - PCI ]------------------------------------------------------------does this help if not ill get more info. thanks alot kennyAny errors listed in Device Manager?no errors in Device manager.. uninstalled drivers let xp reinstall. did not help. thanksWindows default driver is probably not your best bet.
You can get your Yamaha audio driver here: http://members.driverguide.com/driver/detail.php?driverid=16463
To get it, you can either register for free, or click on a file to download, and on next screen "tick" Download this file by viewing a series of ads optionBroni. thanks ill give it a shot kennydid the driver thing still no sound !! thanks anyway Have you checked all the settings in Control Panel/Sounds and Multimedia ? ?
Make sure Mute is not turned on...did all that first. computer says everything is working proper. still no sound. ill keep trying. thanks everybody Did you uninstall old driver, before installing new one?
Did you try Windows Repair install?

I have an emachine W3107, 512mb ram, 1.8ghz. Suddenly every CD I put in the drive (it's a DVD, CD R+RW) plays too fast. Then I discovered that every audio file on the computer plays too fast (all music--period).
I do not know how this happened, and otherwise it works great, but someone told me I had to reset something and I am not at all sure where to begin to find it. I tried going through Windows Media Player to adjust the playback speed of some music videos I burned ONTO CD from the Internet, and as it turns out, even the music I have stored on my hard drive is suddenly playing fast.
This is makin' me nuts...can anyone tell me how to fix this? Thank you!Did you try another player, like Winamp?Welcome to the CH forums.

What happens when you adjust the playback speed in WMP? The attached image shows what to click on (lower LH corner circled in RED).



[recovering space - attachment deleted by admin]Thanks Broni...it doesn't seem to matter which player I use. It's seeming like I somehow changed the play back speed somewhere in my system, but I don't know how. Unfortunately, I also have a busy-fingered six year old who is just figuring out that if you click around enough with the mouse you can pull up all sorts of cool stuff on the monitor (ack).

Dusty: It slows it in a manner that makes the vocalists sound like DRUNK chipmunks instead of just chipmunks (when I slow it in WMP)Did you try to update your sound driver?
Any errors in Device Manager?I also found this:
1. In Control Panel, open Sounds and Audio Devices.

2. On the Volume TAB, in the Speaker settings area, click the Advanced button.

3. In the Advanced Audio Properties dialog box, click the Performance tab, and then adjust the Hardware acceleration slider control to adjust the clock timing for your sound card.

Keep in mind that, if your sound card supports multichannel (5.1) audio playback, turning off hardware acceleration (by moving the slider to None) will cause the sound card to play all multichannel audio in stereo (two speaker) sound.Thanks, guys. I'm going to go check this all out. If LATER on you only see part of a post, it's my keyboard frying because of the tears falling on it.
(Anyone ever listen to Korn sung by Alvin and the Chipmunks? *shudder*)M$ article, I just quoted:
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowsmedia/knowledgecenter/mediaadvice/0067.mspx#435
is even titled Why does my music sound like chipmunks are singing?
LOL

I whent on the internet looking for PHOTOS of all the diferant PCI Express slots.

PCI express 16x slot LOOKS like ONE LONG pice and on both ENDS of it are little pices.

Like this __ ____________ __

Then I saw one that looked like a PCI 64 Bit 33 MHz slot but realy long and it said it was a PCI express 16X

Need helpWell 33MHz is the standard SPEED of a normal PCI slot, so unless its PCI-e 1x it cant be PCI-e at all

Well its officially spring here in Missouri and that means rain, thunderstorms and tornado's, and such. I've already had one power outage which caused the power to flicker on and off about 6 times in 2 seconds. I dont know much about electricity, but I dont think thats good on a PC. Especially when its not plugged into a surge protector or UPS. Luckily the PC you SEE below was alright. When Im buying a UPS, do I NEED to buy one that will power my PSU, or one that the wattage is equal to or greater than the total wattage of all my components?When you buy a UPS, dont buy one that runs at full capacity. An inline UPS is constantly recharging the battery, so if it is operating at full capacity, it produces a lot of heat. The heat will kill your battery.
The UPS rating should EXCEED your TOTAL VA or wattage output by at least 25%
here are some manufacturers

www.apcc.com
www.surgecontrol.com
www.cyberpowersystems.com
www.mgeups.com
www.tripplite.com
www.belkin.com
www.powerware.com
www.liebert.com
www.minuteman-ups.com
www.tic.toshiba.comYea, i've read some reviews that say the same about the heat issue. I dont really have a way to determine what my total wattage output is. I have used the calculators on certain SITES but those are ESTIMATES. I was looking at a CyberPower 850w UPS. Maybe thats too much, i dont know.Quote from: t_blake07 on April 13, 2008, 12:41:48 AM

I dont really have a way to determine what my total wattage output is.

I have just STARTED burning
cd's and now dvd's, I have two packs of new DVD DISCS in front of me, same company, everything exact but one PACK READS DVD-R and the other pack reads DVD+R, is there a difference? Is an RW rewriteable and eraseable?Quote

Is an RW rewriteable and eraseable?

one pack reads DVD-R and the other pack reads DVD+R, is there a difference?

Hi Everyone,

Good day!

I wish to upgrade my old computers' RAM from 128 to 512 and I would like know what type and how many pieces of RAM should I buy?

Here are some info:

Motherboard has 3 DIMMs.
Pentium III 600 MHz processor
Windows XP OS

Please let me know if you NEED to know more info.

Thank you in advance.Welcome Aboard FIRST off ! !

If you travel to Crucial.com they have an online SCANNER that will tell you exactly what type of RAM that machine can USE and how much of it can be installed...
Write down the info and then shop around locally for the best price.
Older RAM is sometimes harder to find so if Crucial's price looks decent i would get it there as they are one of the better QUALITY RAM vendors.....Hi Patio,

Thank you so much!

This is very helpful. You're more than Welcome...
Let us know how it goes.

MaxBlast software should only be used for Maxtor drives.
You should only be using the latest version.
Maxtor has been bought by Seagate so if these drives are newer you should be using the Seagate software.

But we've been through all of this before and it seems like about every 3 MONTHS it starts all over again.Differnt problems an issues.If you insist.Heres something new okay I put in norton so that it could do a memory scan cause I couldnt find the link PAtio usually puts up for it. So now it LOCKS up right in the logo before the post, I have to force it to the BIOS an for it to post, then it ends up stopping an wont go into windows. It doesnt even boot to the CD drive.1. Memory. You can test the system memory using "MemTest86" located at www.memtest86.com. Follow the "Free Download" link on their website and read the DOCUMENTATION on how to use the program.

Of course you need the system to POST before you'll be able to run it. Does the system successfully POST?

2. Locks Up. Do you know about "thermal paste" (or something equivalent) that's placed between processor and heatsink to facilitate heat flow from processor?I have it know thanks to Patio. I'm not going to take off my heatsink, yes I do have the pastey STUFF on there.I'm going to see if connecting an IDE drive wont help.An error cam up that I noticed when enter the BIOS , Primary Master DRive - ATAPI incompatible. So I disabled the DVD Drive ened up haveing to unplug it. It works okay an boots into windows but the HD still have the problem an the IDE still sees it. So I ran Norton an I told it to scan the pc but I dont know if it did the RAM but it didnt find anything. Do it scan the RAM as well when I tell it to scan the pc. Or is it a seperate command?

Major Problem!! Please help!!

When I open the Device Manager there is an exclamation mark next to these devices. I have an Intel Celeron M Processor 1.3GHz. When I click on properties the Device Status it says

Windows cannot load the device driver for this hardware. The driver may be corrupted or missing (Code 39)

I've searched for drivers but Intel say there are no drivers for this. Also the troubleshooting for Windows just says uninstall it but I don't have any CD to reinstall it.

This is also led to my PCI Card not being recognised along with the Soundcard, Modem and exclamation marks agains my USB controllers.

Please help...I really don't understand whats going on!

I'm using WINDOWS XP ON A TINY LAPTOP

Thanks to any suggestionsWhen did this problem start? What happened?
Please post the brand name and model of the laptop.It happened just this afternoon. The PCI Card suddenly stopped working, along with the sound and I can't connect USB devices. When it loads up it takes ages. I can run other programs and they work but slower than normal.

The make of the laptop is Tiny N29.

Thanks for the quick reply.Hmm... try uninstalling the devices with an exclamation mark in the device manager and reboot.
Windows should redetect (and hopefully reinstall) the devices after the reboot.

But I have to say it sounds PRETTY strange that so many drivers would simply STOP working.
You haven't installed or removed any SOFTWARE lately or fiddled with the hardware?Re-install your MBoard drivers from the driver CD that shipped with the machine.Hi everyone...thanks for all your help. I finally found a restore CD that came with the laptop. I formatted and reinstalled everything and its working fine now. Thanks for everyones advice!!

Chris xGood News indeed...stop by anytime.
A full format and re-install may not have been NECCESSARY but at least you're up and running.

Friends of mine have a Gateway computer.. They WENT to turn it on after having gone AWAY on a TRIP.. Well the screen comes up and it says to hit F1, you hit F1 n it ask for a password??
So now what do they do?? they cant find the disk for the computer and I cant seem to get anywhere with it either..Maybe enter the password.Thats the problem, their is no password. They dont know of one for it, they have never had to use a passoword before.Check this out that i found.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080130061705AAbglC0Quote from: Crafty on April 16, 2008, 06:38:22 PM

Check this out that i found.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080130061705AAbglC0

Quote from: Crafty on April 16, 2008, 06:38:22 PM

Check this out that i found.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080130061705AAbglC0

in that link u have i was wondering... why was he looking in the trash for a com, and admits it lol

Thats the problem, their is no password. They dont know of one for it, they have never had to use a passoword before.

They went to turn it on after having gone away on a trip.. Well the screen comes up and it says to hit F1, you hit F1 n it ask for a password??

Hi, i have a XFX Geforce 6200 TurboCache, im trying to get it linked up to my TV via and S-video cable.
all ive been able to get it a brief blue flicker on the screen. computer picks up the TV and does output the extra screen ( i know this because of using print screen and both are present), ive tired it on more that one TV with the same RESULT, i know both TVs support this function as i used to do it with my laptop. ive tried adjusting all the settings i can THINK of and STILL no output on TV. any HELP would be great.

Thanks

Geraint.

I can do everything NORMALLY on my pc, everything works fine, movies all that jaz. But when I go to play a game, I mean even and old game it works good for a little bit and then all these long triangles pop up on the screen and I get flickering and well it just goes buggy. I tried installing the new DRIVER from nvidia, still having the problem. The only thing I have done is install a newer version of java, but I don't think that is the problem. Can anyone help me out with this.
I have a p4 2.8 GHZ ht
915 chipset mother board.

The same CONFIGURATION I have had forever, so I'm sure it's not that the hardware isn't working together. Any input would be greatly appreciated.What games are you tryign to play, and does the socket that ur putting this Nividia card in, is that card compatiable with the MOBO socket??all kinds of games, icewind dale, all the way up to the witcher. Old and new with the same problem. The video card is PCI express, and it's been in the same slot for 3 years.oh, and its just started doing this??yes, I hope its not fried, I don't have another card to test with. So was wondering if anyone knew something that would cause this other that my card is dunzo. I just don't wann buy a new card and have the same problem.WEll my friend i dunno how serious of a gamer u are but a 5700 doesnt do much good anymore, I myself have a 5500 on this computer right now (had BOUT 3 yrs running fine) but im building my own computer (haveing problems as we speak thats why im online) and i am upgrading to a 8500 i cant wait to see the difference but i know most games need a like 6600 GeForce, so u may just wanna invest it into a new card, you should but make sure b4 u open the box, that your MOBO will support it... there like i think 120 bucks on NEwegg i could be wrong but just look em upthanks, it is about time to upgrade anyway.Yea, hopefully i helped you?In the absence of new software or hardware additions, and no history of electrical activity, surges, etc., I would assume the card is bad. Does it have a fan on it? If so, is it turning?
good call, the fan isn't running, that has to be it, overheating, what do I do???whack it a couple times, dude, it means that u need a new fan =Pwell I clean it first lol, then I;ll whack it. I let you know if it works thanks big time.haha or clean it... =P It was gued up for so long it burnt itself up. Good card bad fan. Could have been WORSE news. At least I know what it is now thanks a bunch. Have a good one.

I got a new board(Gigabyte GA-MA78GM-S2H) and I cannot get into the BIOS setup. In fact, on POST it will not detect the correct amount or speed of the RAM and I've tried two different types. It gets the same result both times. It'll find the SATA HDD and SATA DVD drive, but no amount of key pressing will get me to the BIOS setup. I always get to a blank screen with a blinking cursor. It'll say it's going to the setup, but then the blinking cursor is all I get. If I reset the CMOS I can get to a screen where it'll tell me there's a checksum error and it gives me the normal OPTIONS: load defaults, last known good, ETC....still same result no matter what...the blinking cursor. What is the problem here? I've swapped this board out once after my last one died after a whole two days and now this. I'm almost ready to give up.Maybe, my setup WOULD help.

Motherboard: GA-MA78GM-S2H
CPU: AMD BE 5000+
RAM: 2x1 GB Corsair DDR2 800 6400C4 (on the list of approved RAM)
HDD: SATA 500 GB Western Digital
Optical Drive: SATA Samsung Lightscribe 18x (not sure the model number)

Thanks!Maybe this will help you....

http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Support/Motherboard/Manual_DownloadFile.aspx?FileType=Manual&FileID=18432

Yes, I have read the manual already. I've read it back and forth and upside down as well, but there's nothing in there about a blinking cursor that is plaguing me no matter what changes I make to the setup. I've taken the board out of the case just in case it was shorting in there and now have it sitting on a carboard box...no change. What are the chances of a second bad board in a row?The factory may have had a bunch of bad chips put into the boards. You may have just gotten 2 in a row.

I would get a RMA and send it back.
Turns out the problem was a stick of RAM failing spontaneously. I thought I had checked the individual sticks, but apparently not. Tech support at the retailer located the problem and once the stick is removed then all is as it should be. No more blinking cursor after POST and Vista loads normally, though minus a GIG of RAM. Just wanted to update this thread in case it helps someone else.Depending on the manuf. you may be able to RMA that RAM...
Glad you figured it out and Good Luck.

I have TWO Q/As??

Q 1.
If your CPU is 32 Bits does this mean that the CPU will take 32 Bits at a time from the system memory to run???
And if so does this mean the CPU will have two internal registers eatch one 16 Bits big??
So the CPU will take in 16 Bits in one register and then 16 Bits in the other register to make 32 Bits??
So if I have a Pentium CPU it will be a 64 Bit so does this mean it will take 32 Bits in one register and 32 Bits in onother register to make 64 Bits??

And Q 2.
PCI Express 1. X = Dual Direction = 5 Gbps / 400 MBps
Does this mean it goes 5 Gbps and the minimum is 400 MBS?check out wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/64-bit - find the section that compares 32- and 64-bit

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI_Express
What makes you think a 32 bit processor have 2 16 bit registers and a 64bit processor have 2 32 bit?
A 64 bit processor have several 64 bit registers that is essentially what makes it a 64 bit processor.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Processor_registerI'm just wondering how our Grades are this semester....Ok now I understand that a 32 Bit CPU processes 32 Bits at a time and that is how MANY Bits it needs to run.
And a 64 Bit CPU needs 64 Bits at a time to run and it processes 64 Bits at a time.

Now I will explane why I do not understand some things??

I had a book on CPUs and it tells the way they work. And it says if a CPU is 64 Bit 32 Bit or 16 Bit it just meens that is what it needs to run and how many Bits at a time it will processes.

And it says that when there was the 16 Bit CPU it needed 16 Bits at a time to run and it could only processes 16 Bits at a time.

And that the CPU works in *censored* cycles and one Clock cycle it would take in 8 Bits and the next Clock cycle it would take in 8 Bits and then that is how it would make up the 16 Bits to processes.

And when they came to the 64 Bit CPU it still works the same way it would take in 32 Bits the first clock cycle and then it would take in 32 Bits the next clock cycle and that is how it would make up the 64 Bits to process.

Now ware am I getting lost and am I right and if not then what am I missunderstanding??It is not correct that a modern 32 bit CPU only processes 16 bits of data per clock cycle.
You should read this article:
http://computer.howstuffworks.com/microprocessor.htm
The book you've read have obviously done a terrible job of explaining how it works.
How much data a CPU processes per clock cycle DEPENDS on a lot of things. Most importantly is probably the number and width of the ALUs in the processor.
A processor with 2 32 bit ALUs can process two 32 bit integers per clock cycle for example (that is 64 bits of data).Ok I whent back to my book on CPUs and I have it here with me and I think I understand it .

If you have a 16 Bit CPU it meens that the CPU will prosess 16 Bits at a time. And the CPUs Internal registers will be 16 Bits and a CPU can have a fue internal registers.

And the same goes for a 64 Bit CPU it will process 64 Bits at a time and the internal registers will be 64 Bits and the CPU can have a fue of them.

My Q/A is
The first CPU was the 8086 and it was a 16 Bit processor but the Motherboards had an external Dada BUS of 8 Bits so they never used it. Then they whent with the 8088 because it was an 8 Bit processor.

What I don't understand is both 8088 and 8086 CPUs had internal registers of 16 Bits. That meens both CPUs ware 16 Bit processores and they would process 16 Bits at a time.

Now I understand that the Motherboards Data BUS was only 8 Bis but both CPUs had 16 Bit registers so that ment they ware 16 Bit processors RIGHT?

Quote from: nymph4 on April 12, 2008, 11:14:19 PM

If you have a 16 Bit CPU it meens that the CPU will prosess 16 Bits at a time. And the CPUs Internal registers will be 16 Bits and a CPU can have a fue internal registers.

And the same goes for a 64 Bit CPU it will process 64 Bits at a time and the internal registers will be 64 Bits and the CPU can have a fue of them.

I have just spent four days researching CPUs/Processors trying to decide which one I should use for a new build. I picked AMDs Phenom Black edition. Now I need to pick a motherboard. I'm not a gamer but I do some video editing, video WATCHING (two monitors), listen to music, and all the normal stuff. I am so sick and tired of slow and sticky multitasking. I want a system that can play a video on one monitor, RECORD TV, download stuff. and do my email; all at the same time WITHOUT balking. I have AGP video cards, but I cant find an AGP board that supports phenoms. I also want to overclock this black edition. Does any one know of a web site that can help me? Do you know what board I might try. If AGP is out of the question with a phenom; so be it. I still want a phenom, OC, two monitors, PCI slot for TV card. Help.
=bob= The 4 tasks you want to run at the same time are pretty intense even for that CPU but i like Tom's Hardware for MBoard reviews...

The graphics card itself would have to be bulletproof to play a video and record a TV show at the same time.
Have you considered 2 machines ? ?Thanks for the Input patio. I plan on using two distinct cards for video one to view and one to record (either a tv card or an all-in-wonder card). I'm now using onboard video and an agp all-in-wonder card for two monitors.just out of curiosity, why did you choose the Phenom? personally, i would go with an OC'ed Q6600. however, if you have already purchased it we will have to make do.

if you wish to really overclock your CPU, you will have to purchase some sort of aftermarket cooler. i recommend the thermalright ultra 120 extreme CPU heatsink with a scythe slip stream kaze jyuni 120mm fan.

i will get back to your other questions later, im kind of out of time right now.

Hi,
I need a PCI-E graphics card, for under £130($256)

And i was WOUNDER what was the best one

I'm getting a new motherboard (Nforce 780i)

and that one doesn't support my CURRENT Graphics card

thankshttp://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=sr_nr_p_36_pr?keywords=9600GT+&rs=560798&rh=n%3A560798%2Ck%3A9600GT+&low-price=0.00&high-price=130&x=0&y=0

I found these, but I don't get what makes one £100 and another £130, if there all the same make

also some of them say, Memory Type:DDR3

but my board supports DDR2 or is that just for ram They're not the same make, there is actually quite a few different brands in your link. The thing most of them have in common is that they use the same GPU. But that doesn't necessarily make them identical.
Take a look at the technicals specs for these two for example.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inno-3D-GeForce-Express-Graphics/dp/B00140K3W0/ref=sr_1_1/202-4193726-3909467?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1208087020&sr=1-1
http://www.amazon.co.uk/XFX-Nvidia-9600GT-Express-graphics/dp/B00144N1V6/ref=sr_1_5/202-4193726-3909467?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1208087020&sr=1-5
The second one have a higher core and memory clock than the first one. Whether the slight increase in clock speed is actually worth the extra money is a whole nother question though.

What RAM your board supports only matters when buying RAM. Graphics cards CONTROL their own RAM so MOBO support is not a factor.
Thanks Deerpark

You've been very helpful

I'll go with the cheaper one for now.
just an added note, its never worth purchasing a factory overclocked video card. you can overclock it at home for free.

I'm not sure if a flash drive is a hardware or software issue, or if it depends on what the problem is, but here's the problem:

I took my Cruzer micro 4gb over to Staples to get an important file printed, and the flash drive wouldn't launch. Even though the miniature drive and its software were recognized by the computer in the print service area, it wouldn't launch. They tried a second computer and it wouldn't launch. They suggested the flash drive's software had gotten corrupted. When I got HOME my drive worked just fine, thank goodness! I called SanDisk and they suggested the Staples' computers were on a network and NETWORKS don't accept the flash drive's U3 software.

Has anybody else had this kind of problem with a flash drive?

I have now copied the file onto a floppy disk. I hope Staples has a floppy drive!

(By the way, the file was an Adobe pdf.)It shouldn't need to be launched. Just have them GO to my computer and find the correct drive. Most likely labled "Removable Disk."Call Staples and ask if they have a machine setup to handle U3 drives...it's propietary software but i find it hard to believe they are unaware of it.

It can be removed which would make the flash drive work in all machines but it cannot be re-installed if you change your mind down the road...Quote from: rej38675 on April 15, 2008, 08:53:21 AM

It shouldn't need to be launched. Just have them go to my computer and find the correct drive. Most likely labled "Removable Disk."

Call Staples and ask if they have a machine setup to handle U3 drives...it's propietary software but i find it hard to believe they are unaware of it.

It can be removed which would make the flash drive work in all machines but it cannot be re-installed if you change your mind down the road...

Call Staples and ask if they have a machine setup to handle U3 drives...it's propietary software but i find it hard to believe they are unaware of it.

It can be removed which would make the flash drive work in all machines but it cannot be re-installed if you change your mind down the road...

You can't make a "normal" USB flash drive into a U3 enabled drive. The U3 system software is pre-loaded on the drives and cannot be added to a normal drive. When a U3 drive is plugged into a computer, it creates two drives. One is a CD drive with the system software on it and the other is a removable drive that you can use to store information.

You can remove the U3 Software from a Drive and make it a normal flash drive. This PROCESS is irreversible though. So be sure you want to remove the system files FOREVER before using the uninstall programs.

This only re-installs LaunchPad....it does not take the drive back to U3.

Quote

You can't make a "normal" USB flash drive into a U3 enabled drive. The U3 system software is pre-loaded on the drives and cannot be added to a normal drive. When a U3 drive is plugged into a computer, it creates two drives. One is a CD drive with the system software on it and the other is a removable drive that you can use to store information.

You can remove the U3 Software from a Drive and make it a normal flash drive. This process is irreversible though. So be sure you want to remove the system files FOREVER before using the uninstall programs.

Source

You can go back to the U3 website and re-install the U3 software.

http://www.u3.com/support/faq.aspx#U3 Launchpad5

FAQ # 5

I am having some problem using my IDE HD with my SATA HD. The IDE comes up in hardware manager but I have no access to it in my computer on anywhere else for that matter.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
ThanksThe IDE comes up in hardware manager -- that's good. Does it show up in My Computer? When you first boot the computer, are you able to access the BIOS, and do both the drives show up. (They should, if Windows at least sees them.)

The IDE and SATA operate on different physical architectures. (I'm assuming you're booting from the SATA drive.)

IF you see it in My Computer, what happens when you left click on the icon? What happens if you right-click on the icon?I actually does not show up in My Computer at all, but it does show up when I boot up and I can access the BIOS. Yes I am booting from the SATAWhat OS ?
If Win2K or later right click My Computer and select Manage then Disk Management.
Report back with the details of how it is LISTED there.
You can right click the drive there and select properties for more info.

Did this HDD have Windows installed on it ? ?I am running Win XP SP2
I checked and it says it is unallocated.
The HDD did have windows on it but I used killdisk to clean it
I enabled it and now I have STARTED to PARTITION it as drive D (dvd rom is drive E) and now it shows up in my computer. Formatting is taking place now but everything seems FINE now. Thanks a ton

prepping to build new x64 system AMD phenom. twin 500gb drives. has anyone tried partioning drives with clean install Vista? Also, if my mobo has CROSSFIRE technology will it run nvidia sli cards or will I have to buy radeon ati. trying to get info together before I have a real clash!! Crossfire only works with ATI graphics cards and SLI only works with Nvidia based cards.
I don't get your question regarding partitioning the drives...
Are you asking whether it is possible or what?Sorry I took so long to get back deerpark. I wondered are there any issues with partioning the drives w/Vista 64bit. I really have not had an opportunity to do anything with this os. like can the page file be moved off C: or special folders, can they be moved to different drives? This was not a problem w/XP. Should I WAIT til MS releases a SP for Vista before I build? Maybe you can direct me to a site for some good reading on this platform? Thank for any info you can give.

Cecilthis doesn't really count as a "reply", but Vista SP1 is out.Quote from: t_blake07 on April 07, 2008, 05:58:20 PM

this doesn't really count as a "reply", but Vista SP1 is out.

hai there,
one of my kingston pen drives is 256 mb and quit old. the folders i create in my office wont show up when i insert the pen at HOME. but other documetns which are not saved inside a folder can be viewed. but the folders created at home can be seen in the office.

the 256 pen is not worth to me. but i want to know what is going here..Wel arshad i am QUIET SURE that there is a virus either in your office computer or in your home p.c
extract out your important files using DOS...
check out for viruses using any anti-viruses software.What VERSION of Windows is at home ? ?
And at the Office ? ?
If they are different FILE systems i.e. NTFS and FAT32 that would explain it.

Greetings,

Recently my motherboard died and i just finished replacing it. Everything works fine except the DVD rom now.

I have check this ROM on another computer and works fine. ALSO note that when I installed the physical hardware it poped up SAYING that it DETECTED several primary and secondary IDE drive (the DVD rom is the only IDE item on this computer)

BiOS seems to recognize the rom but when you go into the 'my computer' the rom is not listed. Also on my Device Manager there are several Primary and Secondary IDE Channel's listed and a few of each are yellow ! icon.

Any assistance would be appreciated.If this is XP have you tried CD-DVD Fix ?--->TryHere

When you post in 2 different sections it only complicates matters...
For example in your other thread there is no mention of problem devices in Device Manager.

Re-install your MBoard drivers.
If this does not work travel back to Device Manager and remove the Primary and Secondary controllers and re-boot and see if Windows picks them up properly this time.Quote from: street1 on April 13, 2008, 08:15:13 AM

If this is XP have you tried CD-DVD Fix ?--->TryHere

When you post in 2 different sections it only complicates matters...
For example in your other thread there is no mention of problem devices in Device Manager.

Re-install your MBoard drivers.
If this does not work travel back to Device Manager and remove the Primary and Secondary controllers and re-boot and see if Windows picks them up properly this time.

I some times get a pop up on screen, it's a white band with the http details on it, it can be for whats on screen at the time i.e. http//ebay.co.uk, and i can't get rid of it, i have to log out then come back in, any one got any ideas ?You hav not stated when you get this pop -up .
Wat do you mean by " white band " .
please give more details..Hi, it's a oblong box about 30mm long and the print is INSIDE the box, it looks like the Google box on the toolbar were you type in the site you wish to go to, it appears NEAR the middle area of the screen, thanks for your interestYou May be Infected...Clik Here.Hi, thanks for your HELP, have carried out instructions, FOUND 6 and destroyed them, hope everything will be okay, now, will check with the spyware on a regular BASIS.

I am running a Lenovo thinkpad T60p, WinXP SP2, 1 GB RAM, dual core processor @ 2.16 GHz, ATI MOBILITY FireGL V5200 video card.

I am certainly not trying to run Half Life 2 on my LAPTOP, or watch super HD-DVDs. However, even the smallest exertion of video graphics or even online game turns out to run pretty slow, sometimes lagging.
Online videos full screen consistently lag, while resizing to a smaller window usually helps them run FASTER (practically normal).
FLASH games run pretty slow, and changing the setting to "low quality" usually helps.
Laptop was purchased 2 years AGO, started noticing these problems about 2-3 months ago.

Why is my laptop incapable of running even simple videos and games smoothly? How can i isolate the source of the problem?Double post. Topic closed.

Hey guys,

I'll start with my machine specs and then describe whats going on.

MoBo: ASUS P4PE - sata and lan edition.
RAM:768MB Ram (3x256MB DDR266)
HDD's:
Quantum Fireballct20 20 (20GB) IDE 1 M
ST340015A (40GB) IDE 1 S
HDS722540VLAT20(40GB) IDE 2 M
ST...cant remember the number and its atatched to the 3rd Sata/IDE controller and comes up as stripe 1+0/RAID0 (20gb)
OPTICAL: Lite-On LH201AP 20x DVD multidrive. IDE 2 S
XP SP2 all updates.

Ok now heres the PROBLEM, when using burning applications, the max speed i can burn cd's or DVD's at is 8x, not 16x or 20x like i could at a earlier stage...as I can tell, nothing has changed, all HDD's at UDMA5 and the DVD burner at UDMA4

Any help is appreciated!
Kurtis

Try different brand of disk. Burner drives have disk ID codes stored internally and burn at safe speed for disk type.
OK Will do ASAP.
The disks were given to me by a mate and they are completely BLANK on the top so I don't know the disks speeds

Thanks,
KurtisQuote from: Kurtiskain on April 12, 2008, 08:32:44 PM

OK Will do ASAP.
The disks were given to me by a mate and they are completely blank on the top so I don't know the disks speeds

Thanks,
Kurtis

I downloaded the program SpeedFan to find out that my system is running at a cool 100 degrees Celsius/212 degrees Fahrenheit (boiling point for water). Are there are cooling SUPPLIES or anything I can do to bring this temperature down? It melts the furniture I keep it on when I use it so there isn't much choice. Keeping it on my lap isn't really a choice either because, who knows, I may want to have kids one day, might need those guys down there for that.one word. WOAH.
100 degrees Celsius!!! it shouldn't even be ALIVE!!
I WOULD definitely GET it taken into a shop and ask for a better cooling solution!
Perhaps the fan has died or something?
Get it checked!It probably is a fan I'm assuming it is a laptop. Also, just CAUSE its at 100 doesnt mean that it will fail at start up.Yea, I have no idea how it hasn't melted yet. How do I go about getting this thing COLD. I use Power4Gear software to keep this on 25% performance. Need cooling solution. This thing never crashes, though I've only recently gotten the ever-sought-after BSoD. Is there any simple solution? There doesn't seem to be a fan problem because I hear it wizzing around in there. Isn't there another program to see how many RPMs my fans are at?So this is a laptop correct?
How old is it?
Well speedfan should be giving you a fan speed value?
If not try your BIOS under Hardware monitor (could be named different)
And see whats going on.
Could be a huge buildup of dust on one side of the heatsink, not allowing air to flow through it.The more you use that machine before taking it to a shop the closer you get to ruining it.I bought this laptop a year ago and it is still under the manufacturer warranty. Here are the spex:
http://www.notebookreview.com/default.asp?newsID=3462&review=Asus+G2PI would take advantage of the warrenty.

Thank you Crafty for the recommendations for the software.....I like the easy way
too, but i can't HELP to think to know about:
#.What is the difference between paste and MOVE with the External hard drive?
i moved a LITTLE file from My Documents to the external drive and back with the click
on "move file to".
#.I backup My Money by using the backup in the My Money...>Back up to Hard Disk...>My Book D:. It seem to me after i entered some DATA in my money and i
i close it, then the light on the drive, the power/Activity led is up and down. So i think my lastest data is backed-up AUTOMATICALLY. Am i right/wrong to think that
way? Is it what one call "incremental backup"?
#.If i copy a file in the external drive and then i add some data to the file and then copy the file again in the same place, is the file going to be updated?
This is only a few example of questions i ask myself. I am self taught on computer.
Thanks all for your time. Regards,
Darts44

will my machspeed viper mk8-939a support high and low density RAM?go to www.crucial.com and have it check your system to see what kind of memory you can use.so is 1024 high or low density?Generally speaking most MBoards will get hiccups when you mix the 2.
There are exceptions.
1024 is a size designation of RAM...1024 = 1G of RAM.
What did Crucial tell you ? ?USB Support: 2.x Compliant
Error Detection Support: Non-ECC only
Chipset: VIA K8T890
Supported DRAM Types: DDR SDRAM only
Module Types Supported: Unbuffered only
Max Unbuffered DDR SDRAM: 4096MB
Max Component Density: 1024
184-pin DIMM Banking: 4 (2 BANKS of 2)
Graphics Support: PCI Express x16
thats whay i was confused...Max per stick = 1024 up to a max of 4 sticks for a total of 4096 = 4G of RAM.
I wouldn't suggest mixing high and low density simply because RAM is dirt cheap right now...
Get matched pairs for even better performance.im just wondering...
will high density work or no?
because i have some memory sitting around and it will GIVE me beep codes...
and it is brand new...

I had to get a restore disc and restore my COMPUTER. It went to my external HD and put a partition in it before I realized it went to the wrong HD. now my external HD only shows 3.19gig when it's a 160gig. I also have some files that are very important to me on that HD. Can you help me so I can get use of the whole 160gig and get the files that's on the other side of the partition.
P.S. It was a restore disc from Gateway. It is Windows XP media center. The disc MAKES a restore partition which is what it did before I UNPLUGGED my external HD. yet the rest of the HD don't show just the 3.19 gig that was partitioned. The rest of the 160 gigs don't even show that it's there.
So, from what I understand, you restored windows xp onto your external hard drive? Am I reading you right?
If so, you could try PCinspector Data Recovery to see if your data is still there. This PROGRAM can find certain files and partitions after deletions, FORMATS, and repartitioning.

I'm trying to reformat a second drive I recently added to my pc. The second drive used to be a primary drive on a previous rig. I built a new system, and decided that I'd like to backup my data and inserted the old HARD drive.

It has the XP OS on it from when it was the primary HDD, and I'd like to reformat it and have it clean for just storing data.

When I go to drive E, which is the drive letter assigned to it after I inserted it into my new pc, and when I click format, it it keeps saying it can't. I keeps telling me I need to close all windows that show it's contents, but I have nothing OPENED. I even restarted and went right to the drive.

How come I can't do this, and how can I overcome it?

THX!
How is it cabled ? ?
It should also be jumpered as a slave drive and be on the middle connector of the ribbon cable if not by itself.
How does it show up in Disk Management >
You can format it from there if need be.Also if you have to boot into safe mode to format it

Kurtisclick start>run>
type "compmgmt.msc"
OPEN + on storage
select disc management
click and select formatAlso, you can get bootable programs that you can put on cd to do this from the Harddrive Site Maker. Probably the easiest to do.It's a SATA drive, so it' connected to a power source, and there's a data cable right to the motherboard, just the same as with my primary drive.

I want to insure that if I do any of the things any of you mentioned, that I don't reformat my main drive (C) which I just got all setup after a fresh XP install. The new drive, just added (E) is the ONLY one I want to format, as it has an old install of XP in it and I just want to use it as a backup for my data files, pics, etc (in case I have FUTURE issues).

I've got some knowledge, but I'm afraid my kung fu isn't very good Can you give details on what I should do so I only format the E drive (the new one) and not the C?

THX!Please Post a screenshot of your drives from the disk management window...
Somethings awry here.I'll post a screenie when I get home, but how do I access disc management?

Also, to be clearer, the data cable is connected directly to SATA 2, and my primary drive is SATA 1. I followed Q&A for doing this on the 2nd drive from others here and the one thing they pointed out is that if it was SATA, there might be no need for jumpers and master/slaving (which is good, as I don't really understand how to set that up).

I don't want to use a bootable CD as I REALLY don't want to wipe out my main drive (C) that I just got everything installed on (XP and all my other applications). I just want to wipe this drive clean (E) so I can use it as a back up for music, documents, pictures and since it has an XP OS on it from before, I'm worried it might cause issues.

Kid gloves please, I really need hand-holding. I've got some rudimentary knowledge, but I'm really much of a newbie here!

THXUPDATE: I deleted the partition via diskmanagement. Do I need to create a new partion on drive E and if so, which kind (primary, EXTENDED)? Also I was told I should on format my 2nd drive with ntfs? What's this mean and how do I do it?Ok, I got this to work, thanks!

My computer is restarting everytime i go into outlook express. I NOTED this happened when i installed Agv Antivirus, but EVEN when i disable Avg it is still happening. Does anyone have any idea why? THANKS!

BTW, I'm using windows xp Home.

Edited: I have now found out what the problem was, I was running norton antivirus as well as AVG and it looks like they were conflicting with one another.
Now, you know. No TWO AVs.Got away once before with it, but not this time Same goes for firewalls.Quote from: Broni on April 16, 2008, 07:41:28 PM

Same goes for firewalls.

Quote from: Broni on April 16, 2008, 07:41:28 PM

Same goes for firewalls.

the more walls the better!! haha

Quote from: patio on April 12, 2008, 03:26:25 PM

Start with a bare minimum:
PSU
CPU and fan
If the MBoard has onboard video use it.
Monitor
Mouse and Keyboard ( preferably PS2 )
1 stick of RAM

Post back with the results and a complete list of hardware.
What RAM does the MBoard call for ? ?

MOBO does not have onboard, and my mouse and keyboard are both wireless and my MOBO doesnot have a spot for the mouse (its not USB of course)

That board has a PS2port....
At any rate add the vid card to the above minimum list.
Are you overclocking ?
What speed is the RAM ?
Remember use only 1 stick for testing in the slot nearest the CPU.

I just bought the same board but the build is on hold temporarily.

Start with a bare minimum:
PSU
CPU and fan
If the MBoard has onboard video use it.
Monitor
Mouse and Keyboard ( preferably PS2 )
1 stick of RAM

Post back with the results and a complete list of hardware.
What RAM does the MBoard call for ? ?

Add the vid card to the above list and test.

the most common cause of new builds not starting up correctly is incorrect wiring. are all the connections secure and correct? triple check all of your connections and carefully review your motherboard manual for correct wiring.

If I remove the primary hard drive and replace it with a new one, install the old one in an enclosure to make it portable, can I then transfer files from the portable to the new hard drive installed in the COMPUTER?If its an IDE drive you can, thought I would then set the jumper to cable select.If it is in an external enclosure it needs to be jumpered as master.
It will show up in My Computer as just another drive.

If this was XP you MAY also need to read This...I have mine as slave but it still worksQuote from: squall_01 on APRIL 07, 2008, 06:27:59 PM

I have mine as slave but it still works