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Ok, first off I'm not completely new to computers but the HARDWARE is still a place where I lack knowledge. I have a rookie question. I would like to purchase a new sound card but I am unsure if I need pci or pci express. How do I figure out what I have? I currently have a video card that is listed as a C-Media sound DEVICE. Can anyone give me a clue?

thanks
Sterling

I want add this link to a pdf file for my motherboard: http://217.110.237.67/Manuals/7187-engl%20v1.0%20-%20MS-7187.pdf This has a diagram on about page 4 of the document. Maybe this could help with the question?Quote from: sterlinglee38 on December 11, 2009, 09:01:38 AM

... I currently have a video card that is listed as a C-Media sound device...

Look at page 2-12 of the link you provided. 8-channel audio not good enough for you? If not, PCI interface is the one you want. PCI-e x 16 is where your graphics card resides. PCI-e x 1 is usually for Gigabit ethernet, but maybe some sound cards, too. See p. 2-20.

Hi all, and first off thank you for trying to help me.

My computer is a m7700 Alienware Aurora running Windows XP.

I was very foolish and although my notebook wasn't having any problems, I opened it up to try to clean it out last weekend. I pulled out tufts of DUST and fur from the fans and blew compressed air throughout. I was careful to keep contact with the computer's frame while inside it, but I may have forgotten at some point.

When I went to turn the computer back on, I got nothing but a BLACK screen and a solid hard drive light. I don't even get to BIOS. The num LOCK and CAPS lock lights flash on and off at startup but then will not light back up if I push the corresponding keys. None of the fans come on, and if I try to start it up without memory sticks in, there are no beeps. I have also tried running an eraser over the memory stick copper tines, but to no avail.

Is this a definite motherboard/ replace the computer problem, or are there other possibilities? Thank you very much for reading and for your help.Have you opened the box up again to make sure you didn't dislodge anything?I have opened up the box again, and I have checked all the connections to make sure that everything is correctly seated and all the connections are plugged in tightly.Will it boot to a cd? And what is the OS?It won't boot on a CD. The OS is Windows XP.Quote from: awaldo on October 15, 2009, 03:54:54 PM

I have opened up the box again, and I have checked all the connections to make sure that everything is correctly seated and all the connections are plugged in tightly.

Thanks all for the suggestions, I have now returned said CARD and bought an ati card, if still having issues will bump this thread again!

By the way, would it be fair to make a general ASSUMPTION that ati cards are less likely to give you problems, as in my own anecdotal experience I always struggle with nvidia cards!Quote from: chrisbaz4444 on August 25, 2011, 12:08:08 PM

...would it be fair to make a general assumption that ati cards are less likely to give you problems...

No.

I had a 4/6/8 channel CMI 8738 based card in my previous computer [OS XP SP2] but now have a new unit running Vista 32 bit. NEITHER the on board sound, nor any of the PCI or PCIe 5.1/7.1 cards I have tried, do what the previous card did [even though I have been told it shouldn't have]. I am only interested in stereo and need two outputs which send the same stream [my on board or card supply a different stream from the rear out which sounds terrible on its own] and can be switched off independently when required, and I need to be able to listen to what I am recording from my record player. Can anyone suggest a card? CMI do not reply to my emails, and the suppliers I have spoken to in Australia cannot supply this technical information.Have you done a search and installed Vista drivers for the card ? ?
Patio,
Do not have the old computer or sound card anymore - unit was damaged by lightning, though sound card was still ok. Should have taken it out before I traded it. It only cost $39AU and worked great. All newer sound cards I have tried came with Vista drivers. Just can't seem to find a listing for a plain 4/6/8 channel, Vista supported stereo card anywhere.Quote from: theoatteejae on November 21, 2009, 05:00:55 PM

Do not have the old computer or sound card anymore - unit was damaged by lightning, though sound card was still ok. Should have taken it out before I traded it.

Hey there, I have a computer which I had assembled at a specialty store about a year and a half ago. Up untill maybe a month ago it had no problems, but I first started having issues when, when I went to boot the computer, it would freeze right after bios while loading the operating system. After a few reboots and system recovery's, I would be able to get the computer running, and the only way to make sure that it would load up after a cold/hard boot would be to reinstall the graphics drivers. For whatever reason, this would solve the problem untill maybe a few weeks after the same problem would happen again, and be remedied by the same solution. Then I started noticing freezing issues in which, while playing a game (it happened in Halo 2, Battlefield 2, World of Warcraft, the game would just freeze the screen and the last sound would sit there stuttering untill I rebooted the computer. It eventually got to the point, that Whenever I would try to update drivers, whether they be from a cd or a new RELEASE, it would freeze the computer about halfway into the install process. This card in question was the EVGA 9800GX2. I told this to EVGA and they said to send it in, and when I got a replacement today it was a brand new card, meaning that the card I SENT in was most likely toast.

In the meantime while I sent in the 9800GX2, I picked up a EVGA GTX260, and it worked fine for about a day or two untill it began freezeing, the exact same way the 9800GX2 would, where it would freeze the screen, and stutter the last SOUNDS. These types of freezing would happen intermittently across multiple games, untill after about 5 or 6 of these types of freezes, when I went to play battlefield 2, the screen artifacted (SORT of went all garbled and pinkish with almost a checkerboard effect) after only a few seconds into the game. When I reset and went to turn it on again, the computer began to POST, but wouldnt finish. My motherboard, the EVGA nForce 780i would show a post code of 26 on its card, but what was weird is that with no video card it would post to FF and then obviously stop because there is no GPU, and with an older household PCI video card, it would post normally and boot the OS.

I took the GTX260 into the store I bought it from, and after they tested it they said it was indeed a problem with the video card where it wouldnt post, and gave me a free replacement under their exchange policy.

So my assumption is that something in my computer is frying the video cards that are at least in PCI-E slots. While I was troubleshooting my first video card, I tried it in the different PCI-E slots, and they all seem to be working. Im now thinking that it is either the mother board or more likely the power supply. I have the OCZ gameXtreme 1010w power supply, and the video card is the AFOREMENTIONED evga nforce 780i. I have also gotten the impression that for some random reason this could be a hard drive issue, so my hard drive is the Seagate 500gb 7200.11 32MB ST3500320AS . It's a touchy subject because I'm scared to put in either of the replacement video cards I have now because I dont want them to get fried. Any suggestions?Is your MBoard still under warranty ? ?Quote from: ch1ck3nch4s3r on October 15, 2009, 05:16:46 PM

... Im now thinking that it is either the mother board or more likely the power supply.... Any suggestions?

getting rid of the security tool virus.

Here's the Everest report:

-[ EVEREST Home Edition (c) 2003-2005 Lavalys, Inc. ]------------------------------------------------------------

Version EVEREST v2.20.405
Homepage http://www.lavalys.com/
Report Type Quick Report
Computer D7WTRZ91 (vacation)
Generator Eric
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition 5.1.2600 (WinXP Retail)
Date 2009-10-12
Time 18:46


--------[ Summary ]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Computer:
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition
OS Service Pack Service Pack 3
DirectX 4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
Computer Name D7WTRZ91 (vacation)
User Name Eric

Motherboard:
CPU Type Mobile Intel Pentium M 745J, 1800 MHz (18 x 100)
Motherboard Name Dell ME051
Motherboard Chipset Intel Alviso-G i915GM
System Memory 1015 MB (DDR2-533 DDR2 SDRAM)
BIOS Type Phoenix (02/26/06)

Display:
Video Adapter Mobile Intel(R) 915GM/GMS,910GML Express Chipset Family (128 MB)
Video Adapter Mobile Intel(R) 915GM/GMS,910GML Express Chipset Family (128 MB)
3D Accelerator Intel GMA 900
Monitor Plug and Play Monitor [NoDB]
Monitor Plug and Play Monitor [NoDB]

Multimedia:
Audio Adapter Intel 82801FBM ICH6-M - High Definition Audio Controller [B-1]

Storage:
IDE Controller Intel(R) 82801FB/FBM Ultra ATA Storage Controllers - 266F
Disk Drive ST9808211A (80 GB, 5400 RPM, Ultra-ATA/100)
Optical Drive PHILIPS DVD+-RW SDVD8820
SMART Hard Disks Status OK

Partitions:
C: (NTFS) 73092 MB (38777 MB free)

Input:
Keyboard Standard 101/102-Key or Microsoft Natural PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse Synaptics PS/2 Port Pointing Device

Network:
Network Adapter Broadcom 440x 10/100 Integrated Controller
Network Adapter Intel(R) PRO/Wireless 2915ABG Network Connection (192.168.0.101)

Peripherals:
Printer Auto hp deskjet 990c on ASTRO10
Printer Fax
Printer HP Officejet 6300 series fax
Printer HP Officejet 6300 series
Printer Lexmark 810 Series
Printer Microsoft Office Document Image Writer
USB1 Controller Intel 82801FBM ICH6-M - USB Universal Host Controller [B-1]
USB1 Controller Intel 82801FBM ICH6-M - USB Universal Host Controller [B-1]
USB1 Controller Intel 82801FBM ICH6-M - USB Universal Host Controller [B-1]
USB1 Controller Intel 82801FBM ICH6-M - USB Universal Host Controller [B-1]
USB2 Controller Intel 82801FBM ICH6-M - Enhanced USB2 Controller [B-1]
Battery Microsoft AC Adapter
Battery Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery






Can you help?You have onboard sound.
The correct drivers will be on the Driver CD that shipped with the MACHINE...This is going to sound bad.....but I don't know where they are

Any other way?Quote

Intel 82801FBM ICH6-M - High Definition Audio Controller

Looks like a Dell laptop computer. Go to www.support.dell.com and enter Service Tag Number.

Maybe you downloaded and installed the wrong driver?
The Sound is a PCI Device. Can't be installed if it's the wrong driver.
I have no idea what ziyayire.dll is.

Did you go to Dell and enter the Service Tag?

Here's the audio driver:
SIGMATEL STAC 92XX C-Major HD Audio
Are you saying to download this?

i rented a movie dvd yesterday and put it in the cd\dvd drive.i dont know why but its not reading the dvd. i also tried other games dvds and its readin them perfectely. theres also no problem in reading cds. theres problem with only dvd movies and not other dvds. 2WEEKS earlier it was reading it FINE. it tried restoring the pc
to an earlier date not still then it not working.could someone guess any solution??

Using Windows XP
go to 'My Computer' , right click on the DVD drive, click properties, select the AutoPlay tab, select DVD movie(or HD DVD Movie) from the dropdown menu, select the program you want to view DVD movies with, click applyQuote

i rented a movie dvd yesterday

theres problem with only dvd movies

...I can't seem to find any modern motherboards with such a combination...

Still, So the new upgrade path will recycle some of your investment:
A. Use you old keyboard.
B. use your one mouse.
C. use your old power cord.

I wonder if all laptops have a hard drive. I've used many at stores on display and I don't sense any spinning sound like I do when I use a PC with a tower. Do all netbooks also have hard drives? If they do, how tiny are they? My friend says they use tiny flash drives rather than hard drives to save space.With very few exceptions, all laptops have a hard drive. A very few have solid state drives. The cost of solid state drive is 5 to 10 times the cost of a comparable hard drive.

Netbooks are designed to be low cost machines so the cost issue of a solid state drive makes hard drives standard although I've read about some netbooks designed for DEVELOPING COUNTRIES with very small solid state drives.

Ironically, when laptops first appeared many had solid state drives but were EXTREMELY tiny COMPARED to today's standards.Just because you can't HEAR them doesn't mean they aren't out to get you...Quote from: patio on October 16, 2009, 03:17:42 PM

Just because you can't hear them doesn't mean they aren't out to get you...

I've never had a wireless network so it's all new to me. I have a Dell desktop (it's about 7 yrs old) but I'm going to buy a laptop (don't know which one yet) and I have a wireless printer so I'll need a router.

All wireless printers have USB, few have wired ethernet. You need the USB to setup the wireless.

I have a Logitech G5 Mouse, its a couple years old now and it constantly FREEZES. Every so often, it freezes for like 2-3 seconds and windows makes a sound saying USB Doesn't Recognize my mouse. I'm trying to figure out how to fix this problem. I don't know if it's my USB Drivers, My mouse or what, if anything.

I have INSTALLED the mouse drivers many of times with different versions and with no mouse drivers installed. So, i can safely say it's not my mouse driver that's the problem. I have no clue beyond this on how to stop the USB DOESNT RECOGNIZE crap ;/ Any help would be great.Try a different mouse, and try other USB ports......manipulate the cable as you use the mouse, there may be a bad cable...see if you can re-create the freezing.I do not have ANOTHER mouse, but i've tried my mouse on a laptop and it works fine. I've tried every usb slot on my computer and all have the same problem. I've tried playing with the cords to no avail, it's just random pop ups with USB DOESNT RECOGNIZE... or USB DEVICE HAS MALFUNCTIONED or something similar.Have you CLEANED inside the computer recently, overheating COULD be an issue causing the freezing.
Download Speedfan and check your temps.
Any problems show up in Device Manager?Device manager shows no problems at all. Except under network, but thats because i have 2 network cards and 1 is currently disabled. Other than that nothing. I recently cleaned inside the case with compressed air. Downloaded Speedfan, but it after it recognizes everything it freezes (Not Responding).

---- I think i fixed it, When i unplugged my mouse to try on a laptop i moved my table in a little to let the end of the cord come up from the back of the table and now its been 30 minutes since it froze. so i'm not sure how that fixed the problem because even with the table pushed to the wall there was some room for the cord to move ---

A LAPTOP of mine not CHARGING but when there is current thru adapter to it,it recognises it(adapter) but will not charge the battery.
battery tested ok,charge(adapter) ok and compatible.how do i TROUBLESHOOT it the board? a new hp laptop and all ic is ok on the boardQuote from: Ademil4vic on August 24, 2011, 05:47:28 AM

...a new hp laptop and all ic is ok on the board...

battery tested ok

Ok i think this is the most relevant place for this so here go's....

When playing videos in Full screen on youtube etc etc its as if IM watching stills its really slow the loading seems ok etc and the youtube bar at the bottom looks like its in squares really poor quality - i have hooked it too my 37"

the laptop in general seems sluggish have just rebooted and done registry checks all FINE. when i drag boxes across the screen it dosnt go in one smooth line it almost flash's across the screen (its always done this even on the normal laptop screen)

I want to upgrade it now so could an upgrade solve the problem ? or is it somthing else ?
(When i say upgrade i mean memory)

I am running wireless my download speed is around 2.5mps and uplad is 1.5 mbps

so could this be why the video seems like its playing stills/really slow but would not explain the poor graphics in large rscreen would it
any help APPRECIATED
THANKS!


Probably the VID card is being overworked for what it can do...
This will happen on a 37" display.

Care to let us know some machine specs ? ?Why does anyone need a 37" computer display?

With my laptop, which has a nVidia GeForce Go 6100 display adapter, even connecting a 19" widescreen monitor will cause the computer to disable Vista's Aero features. There's just not enough video horsepower under the hood to do it all.

what do you need to know ?the main reason for this is its in my bedroom so its easier and the laptops out the way with a wireless keyboard and mouse, can the graphics card be uploaded ? or can i change the way its displyed on my tv i.e. make it smaller ?No, the graphics card is hardware and, therefore, can't be uploaded.

Quote

or can i change the way its displyed on my tv i.e. make it smaller ?

Care to let us know some machine specs ? ?

what do you need to know ?

Our church has been using donated computers for some time. We have finally decided to purchase a new desktop system. However, the task is choosing the amongst the available processors with the speed, memory, and operating systems for our needs. We have a LEXMARK copier and we plan to add WIRELESS internet to AT&T phone system. Any suggestions as to what we should be looking for in a complete system? Thanks. rhbc2A dual-core processor such as the (older) ATHLON X2 5600+/Pentium D 830 would be sufficient for office use. What are the specs of the donated computers you are looking to choose between?


Wireless internet from a phone system requires a DSL Modem hooked up to a router-alternatively you can buy an all-in-one modem+router device such as this:


http://www.dlink.com/products/?pid=567


A Lexmark copier would work on most any computer in the world today-Windows/Mac has integrated support for printers/copiers and shouldn't be a problem. You did not say what PROGRAMS and OS you have used up to now. What have you used up top now?

A non-profit organization often has little need for intense computer power. Your best resources are the people who volunteer to work with you. If frugal use of funds is a requirement, or perceived as a requirement, care must be taken to not over-invest in something your people think is unstable.

My recommendation, if I were one of your people, would be to investigate the purchase of refurbished computers from Dell. They carry the same warranty as a new computer at a significantly lower price. Also. they come with bolder versions of software that your people may actually prefer.

There's a pretty good computer buying guide here. http://blog.smartcomputing.us/buying-computer-guide-2011/ Seems to be in English INSTEAD of assuming you know the ways of the nerd. I just purchased a new computer, and honestly, I was at a loss. I did some research online and still didn't feel comfortable shelling out money for a computer. My coworker found this one source guide and shared it with me. She said she found it online http://www.ebay.com/itm/170685939390?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

I was able to save money using it... didn't realize you didn't have to pay full price, etc.

Good luck!
Quote from: rhbc2 on August 15, 2011, 10:38:05 PM

However, the task is choosing the amongst the available processors with the speed, memory, and operating systems for our needs.

Hello,
I have a 2001 Dell Dimension 8200 (yes, I fell prey to the salesperson who was paid to push RDRAM). I have no lappy so I have no pressing need for a wireless router. I am just looking for suggestions on a WIRED router that doesn't need an IT pro to set up and works reliably. I did run a search on the forum here and didn't see any relevant posts. I have also been searching all over the INTERNET recently. There is plenty out there on wireless routers.... just not on wired routers.Any big name is fine. I've always used Linksys.I've got a wired Linksys that was EASY to set up and works fine. It's been a while SINCE I got it, but if I remember right the only set up was to pop in a CD and it did the rest.You don't even have to put in a cd. Just plug & play - that's the case with most routers.Most, if not all, wireless routers have wired connections, too.Wireless routers are usually wired/wireless combo routers. IOW, they nearly always have ports on back of the router for wired connections, along with the wireless capability. So, if you have any thoughts of needing wireless sometime down the road, you might as well get a wireless router; you can still use it as a wired router.Thanx fellas! That helps a LOT!

Hello Good people,

We have a Toshiba e-Studio 452 Printer, which we use it mainly for photocopying purpose. Recently it started printing white lines in the middle of the pages. I removed the developer unit and the drum only to find out that part of the drum had Toner stack on it, i TRIED cleaning it with a smooth dry cloth, but the dry toner never came out, since we have a spare drum so i just went on and changed the drum, i assembled and then put back everything in place. Know when i make copies the white lines is gone but the page comes out totally dark, completely black no readable information and the drum gets covered with toner. I spent the all day figuring out what went wrong, it seems like i made it worse. I was told the problem is at the back frame of the machine a mismatch, I just don't seem to figure it out.

Any help is well appreciated.


I think you are very very foolish to attempt to repair this very expensive machine. You should call the manufacturer's service department. This is not a user-serviceable item, and you may invalidate any warranty or repair contract, especially if the machine is leased.

Thanks for your advice, too late though coz i am in the mud know, so is there any way out of this mess? Quote from: Salmon Trout on August 24, 2011, 03:43:46 PM

You should call the manufacturer's service department.

When I turn on my HP laptop it starts normally but then instead of going to the windows screen it goes to this black screen and these numbers start to run. It stops at 5390 or 5309, one of the two and flashes and reads (tzupd.exe); thus rubbing its HATRED for me in my face. I really need my computer to start, at least to get the files off of it before I take it in. Any suggestions as to what may be wrong or what to do?

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Oh yes and my laptop is hp dv6000 (one of those white ones). it runs VISTA. And any other info needed please ask.

Ciao

Maybe yours is one of the recalled ones:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&docname=c01087277
I assume this just started. What happened between the last time your system started normally and the first time it didn't (new hw, sw, virus, etc)?well i was watching a movie, and fell asleep and when I woke up it was off and would not start. Prior to that it did not show a lot of problems other than being slow. You're not in Morocco, are you?no I'm in CANADA, what does morrocco have to do with it ?The filename you mentioned is a Microsoft Update for Moroccan Daylight Savings Time.

Have you tried booting to the Vista CD and trying the restore options?

Also, you can TRY running a boot time av scan (just to rule out malware).

Hi, new member here who is hoping someone can shed some light on an issue I'm having.

Yesterday I pulled a hard drive out of an old computer and put it in an external USB enclosure to move DATA to a new computer.

Before doing so I ran an antivirus scan to make sure I wasn't moving anything nasty to the new computer. It did detect two viruses which I told it to repair when prompted.

The drive showed up just fine in my removable devices as an HP Maxtor Drive F, and showed up in My Computer as Drive F.

I then proceeded to transfer FILES for approximately 4 hours with success. Later last night I realized I had forgotten to move some files. I plugged it back in and from that point forward, the drive shows up in my removable devices as simply a USB Mass Storage Device. In the Hardware Profile (in Device Manager) it shows both of the internal hard drives and the Maxtor drive which is in the external USB enclosure.

However, it does not see/recognize the Maxtor in My Computer. I have no drive F. Only the internal hard drives.

Any ideas?

Thank you, EarlBTW, I'm running XP and the old machine was XP.Does it show in Disk Management ? ?
To get there rite clik My Computer...select MANAGE...then Disk Management.
Rite clik the drive and select Properties...if it says RAW it was unplugged prematurely and your data may be gone...If it says RAW you MIGHT be able to use testdisk to recreate the partition and recover the data that was on the partition:
www.[font=arial, helvetica, 'bitstream vera sans', clean, sans-serif]cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk[/font]Before I saw your responses I did look in Disk Management and it was showing that drive was unallocated. Well, I knew this meant the partition was lost or gone.

I DOWNLOADED a neat little freebie (free for home use) called Partition Wizard http://www.partitionwizard.com/. With this I was able to rebuild the partition and everything is fine now.

Thanks for your responses and I know this great forum bookmarked!!!

EarlGood news indeed...
Glad to hear Partition Wizard got the job done...

I Installed a new motherboard and cpu (can be found in specs) after installing new hardware i have had a hum coming from my speakers. Any ideas on why it is doing this now, or recomendations on how to correct problem? I have installed the newest DRIVERS for it as well.

Thanks Bunafireman825Sounds like the MBoard is shorting out to the case...did you use MBoard standoffs in assembling ? ?The old Motherboard did not have those on it so i did not use them on this one, but it looks like if i did use them it would pick the mb up to high and the pci slots, usb,(etc would not line up in my case.They need to be used...you risk frying your board.The case that i have has rasied areas unders where the screws thourgh the motherboard go. What i found when i pulled the mb out was a couple of standoffs that were not in place for screw for the new or old mb. My question is with the raised areas already there does it still require standoffs?

Even after removing the other standoffs the hum is still there.

Thanks Bunafireman825For the raised humps you should use small rubber or felt washers...all other mounts should have standoffs...

Onboard or sound card ? ?onboard sound i dont have any washers on there so i will try that. The board does need to ground to case dosnt it? Or does the screws take care of that?


Thanks Bunafireman825


Are you using a FRONT panel audio connector? Try temporarily removing the plug and placing jumpers over the 2 mentioned in the motherboard manual.

Some case front connectors are of POOR quality...and cause all types of trouble.

Otherwise, ensure the plug is in firmly, securely. does the same buzz occur if you rest your finger on the SPEAKER connection plug contacts?Quote from: bunafireman825 on December 17, 2009, 07:22:31 PM

onboard sound i dont have any washers on there so i will try that. The board does need to ground to case dosnt it? Or does the screws take care of that?


Thanks Bunafireman825

Have you tried the speakers on a different computer?

system: Custom Built

Win Xp Pro Service pack 3
Amd Athlon 64 X2 dual core processor 3800+
2.00ghz, 2.gb ram

was curious what ttemp should be.. runs around 65C when playin a gameThermal specs:

http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K8/AMD-Athlon%2064%20X2%203800%2B%20-%20ADA3800DAA5CD%20%28ADA3800CDBOX%29.htmlk.. now speedfan is sayin its runnin around 75 up to 78C .. idk.. any IDEAS?Have you ever done thermal paste before ? ?
Are all fans running properly ? ?

Thermal Paste Guidesno never have. i dont know if the guy that put it in for me did that or not.. But i think i was totally wrong.. I think its the GRAPHICS card thats gettin hot.. felt inside my case..and theres alot of heat comming off my graphics card.. i was told when i got the card and processor put in that i probably needed a bigger power supply (got 400watts) and my System info is above.. but my graphics card is a Raedon 9800 pro...think it would help the graphics card if i flipped my fan on the side of my case around suckin in cold air threw the system? Its in the living room and the ac is always onDLoad and run SpeedFan...
Post your temps.
Idle=
UnderLoad=Quote from: jamie009 on October 15, 2009, 05:51:07 PM

think it would help the graphics card if i flipped my fan on the side of my case around suckin in cold air threw the system? Its in the living room and the ac is always on

(Motor Neurone Disease)
It Came up In A windows On My Computerhttp://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&ct=res&cd=1&ved=0CBAQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FMotor_neurone_disease&ei=ePs4S-flIIyyNo3mqO4C&usg=AFQjCNG7MpWLi3HsY4fQnG1Ny6fVjAPMpQ&sig2=6Y8whMRtQzmNqd7b-bYPEQ

It Came up In A windows On My Computer
[/quote]

YOU SHOULD TAKE NOTE OF YOUR ENGLISH TEACHER WHEN YOU ARE AT NURSERY LITTLE
BOYQuote from: ganjaman on December 28, 2009, 01:45:21 PM

It Came up In A windows On My Computer


YOU SHOULD TAKE NOTE OF YOUR ENGLISH TEACHER WHEN YOU ARE AT NURSERY LITTLE
BOY

I have an HP Pavilion desktop computer that is about 4 yrs. old and am running XP with SP3. I recently upgraded the drivers for my Diamond Radeon X1050 video card. I have a flat panel screen (I THINK it's an Acer - inherited it from my mother) - model no. is L17NCDT if that helps.

While working in a particular application like Word or Excel, or playing a game, all of a sudden the monitor goes BLANK and shows either "No Sync" or "Signal Out of Range." Since I can't see anything when this happens, I have to manually turn the computer off and then back on.

Any ideas why this is happening and what I can do to fix this? It gets really IRRITATING since I work from home and may have SEVERAL windows open at once, then I have to start all over again.

Thanks!
I start by rolling back the driver if I were you.Thought about that, but not sure how.Just found the "Roll Back Driver" button. I'll give that a try.Go to Device Manager and double-click on the display adapter - video card entry. Driver Tab - Roll BackRolled back the driver. While playing a game, the screen went blank and came back with a bunch of columns filled with pixels. So now it's even worse than before. Any other suggestions?Video card, itself may be overheating, or going bad.Thanks for tip on overheating. That rings a bell as I hear a fan kick in and run loudly SOMETIMES, especially when playing games. I looked at the topic about temperature and found this URL:

http://www.cpuid.com/hwmonitor.php

I'll run this on my desktop tomorrow and see what happens. If the video card is indeed overheating, any suggestions?
He can remove the video driver in safe mode.
Reboot and install the driver again. Should reset the video to default.Open the case (while computer off) and give it a good cleaning with a can of compressed air.

Good day,
i put on my system this morning and with light on mother BOARD,fan is working,processor OK,ram compatible and perfectly working.but STILL the system is hanging,how do i trobleshoot this kind of this problem?Define "hanging". EXACTLY what HAPPENS and when does it HAPPEN?

What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

There was a power outage recently and now when I turn the computer on, it wont turn on, no lights no fan, nothing. Is it the power supply or could it be something else, and so how would I find out?

Cmputer is a compaq presario SE1365L desktop
I would guess Power supplyIs the receptacle live?Yah, I would first try plugging the computer into another receptacle...if that doesn't work, borrow a power supply of equal or greater wattage from another computer and install it temporarily, for testing.

If it doesn't work after installing the power supply, then you'll need a new motherboard.. This is PRACTICALLY an ad for using a UPS. I live in a fairly high lightning area with frequent power outages during the summer and I wouldn't be without one.Quote from: shashgo on October 14, 2009, 04:20:25 PM

....compaq presario SE1365L desktop...

..In other words, are they all the same?

Here is some of the info on my computer, and some of the things that I have upgraded or replaced.

PowerSpec® 9263
Processor
Intel® Pentium® 4 Processor 550 with HT Technology
OS
genuine Microsoft® Windows® XP Professional Edition
System Board
Intel® D915PGN
System Memory
1GB composed of 2- 512MB PC3200 SDRAM 184-pin DIMMs
Upgraded to 2 GB
Hard Drive
300GB SATA 7200 RPM
Video
nVidia GeForce FX 6200 PCIe 256MB
Upgraded to nVidia Geforce 9400 1 GB DDR2
Sound
Integrated Intel® HiDef Audio 7.1
MESSED UP-FUZZY ON GAMES SLOWS DOWN VIDEO. CPU at 100% Playing some games.
Keyboard
Standard PS/2 Keyboard
Upgraded Logitech G15

The problem is in the sound. I have updated the drivers and such with no luck. I am a pretty big gamer and sound has never really been issue. From what I am understanding, I am looking for good performance in my games, however this sound card that I have now can slow my games down by using the CPU?

The intergrated card I have in now, seems to be acting up now. 3 different games have gave me buzzing sounds and It seems to slow the game down when alot of sounds are used in the games or repeating sounds over 2 to 3 times. My question is what kind of sound card would help with my gaming? Do all sound cards use the CPU? Can someone kind of explain the basic sound card where it uses resources in the computer? As long as I can hear the game in good quality I am ok with it, but I do not want it to be using up resources on the other performance end of the computer for the gaming play.

ANY HELP PLEASE.





All soundcards use cpu-power.(Exept the Pro tools HARDWARE-card but this costs $4500-$12900.-).Thats ONE of your questions answered.Quote from: Eric1611 on December 29, 2009, 07:31:23 AM

All soundcards use cpu-power.(Exept the Pro tools hardware-card but this costs $4500-$12900.-).Thats one of your questions answered.

Sorry if I have given the wrong info.I run M-Audio 2626 with Pro-Tools and what people told me is that the card itself does not use cpu power but as soon as u run something(like a plug-in\softsynth ect.)on it it does start to use cpu-power.
I never meant to give wrong info...What I do know is that the hardware Pro-Tools system is by FAR the "lightest" system for your computer...
I`ll dive a bit deeper into this because it conceirns me...
All the best;Eric............

...
CMOS checksum bad
CMOS Date/Time not set
press F1 to run set up
press F2 to load default setting.

I already change the CMOS battery but same error i see every time i turn my PC. If i press F2, then i need to change every now and then the Date and Time of my PC. What should it do to proceed right away to windows when i turn on my PC?

Hello, I have a older PC with XP home installed on a 20 gig hard drive. I have a second 20 gig hard drive installed and formated.

Do I have to do anything special to make it work with two hard drives? Will it work LIKE a single 40 gig hard drive?

TomNot exactly.
Do you have a lot of Photos?
Lots of Music?
Lots of Videos?

You cam move the ENTIRE My Documents folder into a folder on the new drive.
How to Change the Default Location of the My Documents Folder
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/310147So far I don't have to MUCH on the master drive, I just got this PC going a few days ago.

I have a 80 conductor cable and the drives set as master and slave, both on the PRIMARY IDE, would it make any difference if I set the drives to cable select? I mean would the PC run any better on cable select?

TomQuote

I mean would the PC run any better on cable select?

My vista laptop randomly SHUTS down, no blue SCREEN. It does not when I am in safe mode. Anyone know whats up?

I don't think it's overheating. I'm just doing something and the screen goes black and the power shuts off. I have windows vista business. I don't think it's a virus, I scanned like 5 times. It would be great to know what causes this or at least a program that fixes it. I am in safe mode now.Open msconfig and do a selective startup (disable EVERYTHING from loading) and reboot. Does the system shut down now?Quote from: Allan on December 29, 2009, 01:50:17 PM

Open msconfig and do a selective startup (disable everything from loading) and reboot. Does the system shut down now?

Hi, I think the thermometers in my computer are wrong..

I have an MSI Wind U100 Netbook

When I first got it half a year ago, it ran cold, even after WATCHING movies or playing a game it would still only be a little warm. I could also use the built in overclocking(fn+f10) for as long as I wished.

The problems started about a month ago. After an airplane ride, my Wind started getting reeeally hot. Like after 15 MINUTES of being on Id burn my hands hot. The CPU temps were around 80C and the Northbridge was at about 100C! This I could understand too, cause my netbook felt hotter than . Before I could turn it off it blue screened and restarted..I turned it off.
I ended up taking the case off. At one point the heatsink ALMOST fell off. for some reason there were no screws in it, so I used a few of my case screws and screwed it on tight. Booted up, and after a few hours it didnt get that hot...but the readings were still as high.

Here I am 1 month later..My netbook usually feels cool too the touch, though warm if I watch video... But the temperatures when Idling say 69C for cpu and 85 for northbridge. HDD is at about 50C. When I watch video or compress a RAR or something cpu intenseive, the temps shoot up to around 90C/120C. If I turn the OC on it will SHUT off after a few seconds...rendering it pretty much useless. Also..If Im idling and I OC temps instantly drop about 7-8C
Now I know that Im not running that high, because when I did run that high it was at least 40C higher...I DOUBT anything in my computer is over 50C.

So how would I fix this? because it sends my fan out of control all the time which gets annoying when Im trying to listen to something, and sometimes video will stutter and I just want to overclock it... Im pretty sure my thermometers need to be recalibrated...but I dont know how.

I have
MSI Wind U100
Intel Atom N270 1.6Ghz
2GB DDR2 667
Intel 945GSE

Hello,

I'm pretty good with computers but running out of ideas and patience for the problem that I have been having today. I built an almost entirely new desktop this week and spent a lot of time on it, making sure the RAM was working properly and so forth. During this time, I used the ASUS Overclocking Autotuner to overclock my system. I've never overclocked before but assuming that the motherboard's programming knew what it was doing. This afternoon I started play The Witcher 2 and during my playtime, the computer shut off and now it won't turn back on again. I assumed that the processor overheated and waited a bit and hit the power only to have nothing happen. I opened it up and the RAM felt a bit hot so I waited some more and try again and got nothing. I've pretty much taken it apart and PUT it back together again only to keep having the same issue. What happens is that when I turn off the power supply and turn it back on, the first time I try to turn on the computer, one of my front fan's LED will pop on the off and the computer is dead. I've tried clearing CMOS and took out all unimportant parts and still the same thing. The green power LED on the motherboard is always on when the power supply is on. I've pretty much narrowed it down to the motherboard, the processor, or the power supply. The real question is which is it? I've read that the processor is least likely since it has overheating protection and shouldn't get damaged that quickly. Like I said, the MOBO power light is on, so that somewhat eliminates the power supply, but since the front CASE fan is plugged into the power supply directly, shouldn't it at least stay on? Any ideas or is it what I fear, and the MOBO is shot?

Specs:
ASUS P7F7-E WS Supercomputer Motherboard
Intel i7
450W PSU
6GB Ram
Nvidia 1GB Card
rest don't really make much difference.

Thanks for any replies.The MOBO power light is on only means the +5V to the motherboard is on. Fans spinning means +12V is functioning. How exactly did you clear the CMOS? Some require removing battery and shorting 2 pins on the header.I first had moved the pin header and switched it to the reset position and switched it back and it didn't seem like it did anything. I just took the cmos battery out and waited a few seconds and put it back in and got nothing either.You've got it reversed, pull the battery, then MOVE the jumper for a few seconds, then move it back.Oh gotcha, watched some video on youtube on reseting CMOS and must of heard it wrong. So, I did it again and am still GETTING nowhere. I even switched video cards just to make sure the power supply wasn't supplying enough watts, and still nothing.Try minimum configuration: CPU, 1-RAM stick, keyboard, monitor. No drives. It should boot to BIOS because nothing is connected to boot to.
Did you apply sufficient thermal paste to the cpu/heatsink?Ok, tried the minimum and still got nothing. As for the thermal paste, its on there but I guess it could be a bit less that should be, but even so, the comp should turn on at least. It was running before fine until today for about a week, so I can't see the thermal paste being an issue.Hi

I would try a replacement supply. It's always good to have a 600 to 700 watt power supply that you know is capable off it's rated wattage as a reference. And for your computer I would install at least a 500 watt supply.

Lisa
This site has some basic steps you can take if your computer won't power up. http://blog.smartcomputing.us/computers-power-turn/

Quote from: MP1975 on OCTOBER 15, 2009, 11:43:50 PM

Question was for anyone who wanted to respond. lol

and the DVD / CD burner is broken

going to buy a NEW internal hard drive and oem xp for my dead laptop

This one is not so easy. I would like to properly replace my "INTERNAL" Lightscribe DVD/CD Burner.

Which drive do you need? HD or Optical?

What would you be willing to pay KNOW the condition of the laptop. Just curious.

Dislodged the right-side if the dvd/ CD-rom tray with my knee & tray would not open/close . I removed /opened-up the Drive unit from PC unit & seemed to have re-line the right with the left side tray. Then to re-installing/plug CONNECT to mother-board & dvd drive, as I closed the PC-rom tray it would soon re-open . Must be a few options to solve or correct this ?? Do you see a small round hole just below the cd tray? Try pressing it with a clip. What happens? These are usually mechanical gear problems that needs timing and realignment. It could also be the rubber needs replacement. But these require certain TECHNICIAN skills. Electronic devices with trays usually are similar just like on Audio components, DVD/CD players or even the classic VHS. Take it to someone you know are good with this kind of stuff.Quote from: jason2074 on August 23, 2011, 06:23:02 PM

Do you see a small round hole just below the cd tray? Try pressing it with a clip.

Hi, i just bought a PixelView Playtime Pro 4 INTERNAL TV Tuner with FM Ratio card n fixed it on my pc running WINDOWS XP. I'm not able 2 play FM ratio. I correctly connected all d cables n wires PROPERLY. While tuning d FM n SETTING d frequency, no sound on speakers. I hav never tried a tv tuner before. Any IDEA what would b possible causes.What kind of antenna or input do you have?

Code: [Select]Your CD drive or DVD drive is missing. code 39
Thee are other error codes that might be given for this PROBLEM.
Below is from MS. Read it first, before you try some of the others. Some of the other 'fixs' are either bogus or poorly tested.

Your CD drive or DVD drive is missing or is not recognized by Windows or other programs
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060

CD drive not working in Windows XP or Vista. But Also information for fix in Windows 7 and LINK to Windows 200 fix.
(Code 31)
(Code 32 or Code 31)
(Code 19)
An "error code 39" error message.
Windows XP
Vista
Vista 64 bit
Windows 7

The Acer 4415 laptop is one of many CURRENT PCs that can have this problem. It can not be fixed by the usual methods. Do NOT pay for software to fix this problem. Read the MS KB link above

Also for more about Codes 41 through 50 and some others look here:
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/310123#appliesto

Anybody want to clarity this , pleases do.
You can Goolge 'error code 39' and get ...
far too many of LITTLE value.

I put this here because my first impression was that it had to be hardware.
And sometimes it is!

Hi there,

I've had my Samsung R510 for LESS than a year now, and it's great. Until, last WEEK cider got poured over it... and now sometimes the laptop beeps (quite high, fast beeps) when I try and boot into Windows.

I've researched and apparently these frequent beeps indicate a memory error. I've run a memory diagnostic test and no errors were found...

Any IDEA for solutions or will I have to take my laptop to a shop?

This doesn't all the time.. sometimes I get in (which is why I was able to enter this post). I've tried restoring Windows but it still doesn't work. Also, I recently installed Ubuntu but uninstalled it... don't know if that could have anything to do with it.

Thanks,
Quote from: h00giz on October 16, 2009, 11:54:17 AM

...last week cider got poured over it...Any idea for solutions or will I have to take my laptop to a shop?...

Quote from: JONLAWLEY on October 15, 2009, 12:08:59 PM

LAPTOPS SOMETIMES ONLY HAVE EARPHONE OUTPUTS BUT SOLONG AS THE SPEAKERS ARE POWEWRED WILL WORK FINE !
ID SAY YOU NEED THE DRIVERS

worst forum ive come across with ignorant mods maybe you need to learn the art of socialising and how to put words the correct way

Geez somebody needs a nap!

I have a Dell Dimension 2350 computer and I wanted to test the speeds of my current network vs. a GIGABIT one. I was writing a book about upgrading your PC and I re-seated the RAM and left it open for the night. This morning, I closed the cover, TURNED it on, and it didn't turn on. This morning, I opened the system and saw a flashing green light (Without unpluging). I am not sure on what caused it. Last night, I WORE a Sweatshirt and it may cause static electricity. Sure, I can't buy a brand new PC from Dell because their Inspiron 5XX ethernet controller is the same as the Dell Dimension Ethernet controller, except different brand names, and I will void warranty in the new PC.
I was typing this from school, and this system is at home. I need to KNOW how I would fix it.
The cold may have froze the system and sure, I can't afford any system. I can also mess up my Inspiron 530, any Pentium III or AMD athlon system, or a system from a 1 penny auction for this purpose.

OK, so for a few months now, my one year old computer's power supply box has been making a very loud noise after I start up my computer. It lasts anywhere from 3 to 10 minutes. And lately the sound comes up EVEN when my computer has been on for any amount of time after I turned it on.

I recorded the sound:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9-s7mUXfH8

It's pretty loud if you're there in the same room, or even outside the room.

Now, I opened up my computer because I naturally thought that it was dusty, which it was. So with my computer off, switched to 0 and unplugged, I DUSTED it inside and out. I MADE sure to hold each fan still (one on the mother board, one on my graphics card and the one in the power supply) while I cleaned the dust using a pressurized can of air. (FALCON Dust-Off Professional)

I did open up my power supply and dusted everything in there to, very carefully. I then made sure that nothing was hitting the fan in the power supply while it spun, there were no obstructions, everything seemed that it'd be running smoothly. I then put everything back together and made sure everything was in place. Turned on my computer and it still made that noise.

So I'm still not sure why it makes that noise. I checked to see if my computer was overheating, but it wasn't hot at all, and it's definitely in a ventilated place, all sides of it (vents) have nothing in their path. So I'm still not sure why that sound it happening or what is making it. The only thing I know for sure it that it's coming from the power supply box.

Sounds like a wire or the fan grille scraping against the fan blades.Quote from: Computer_Commando on October 15, 2009, 05:41:39 PM

Sounds like a wire or the fan grille scraping against the fan blades.

The only thing I know for sure it that it's coming from the power supply box.

i have 32gb Hisun pen drive when i tried to format, it returned error

"Format did NOT complete successfully"

please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Try this HP Formatting Tool.
http://files.filefront.com/SP27608exe/;9868201;/fileinfo.htmlI know this is an old topic, but I have a 16gb sandisk USB flash drive, my windows (vista) MACHINE always tell me that format did not complete successfully.

Have tried the HP formatting tool, same result.

What to do?Did you do it exactly this way? Exactly?
http://www.ehow.com/video_4751904_format-flash-drive.html
(This video may be slow to load.)I thought you just right click on the drive (if it exists) and use the format option? Or click on format if computer detected formatting required?

That's how the HP format tool works too.

That's how I formatted my old USB flash drives on my computer in the past . I already have backed up all the files on my drive so I don't care if the stuff on my flash drive gets erased.

My flash drive in QUESTION, I had been using WITHOUT problem for a while, but lately it's been sitting unused and now when I attempt to use it, it sort of hangs up now and then, forcing me to have to unplug the device and replug it in to get it working again. So I thought I'd just reformat the device. But it's giving me the error.....I have a failed flash drive that prompts for a format and then says it couldn't complete. I know it's failed because it's literally reporting itself as a totally different device. (it was a SanDisk Cruzer, now it's reporting itself a "SanDisk Pen USB".1. Since you don't care about the "data", you are free to "aggressively" test the flash drive media for read/write errors.

These programs may be used to test the media:
a. Check Flash 1.10
b. h2testw 1.4
c. USB Flash Tools
d. USB Flash Drive Tester 1.14

2. Fake/Counterfeit USB Flash Drives:
a. CAVEAT EMPTOR, BEWARE of Counterfeit USB Flash Drives
b. I want to believe: Fake USB Flash Drive
Quote from: dahlarbear on DECEMBER 29, 2009, 06:11:37 PM

Since you don't care about the "data", you are free to "aggressively" test the flash drive media for read/write errors.

These programs may be used to test the media:
a. Check Flash 1.10
b. h2testw 1.4
c. USB Flash Drive Tester 1.14

Hi can you tell me what is the BEST option for a lap top i5 2410m 2.3ghz with 8 gb of ram or i5 480m 2.66 GHZ but with 4 gb of ram the rest of the computer is pretty much the same . Which set up will be faster pleaseConcentrate on the other specs because the cpu's are very close.
The Arrandale was released in Jan. 2011; the Sandy Bridge was released in Feb. 2011

http://www.cpu-world.com/info/Intel/Intel_Core_i5_Mobile.html
See comparison here: http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2375117,00.asp

Sandy Bridge has GPU On-Die, Arrandale is On-Package

I would choose the i5-2410m because I have an i3-2310m
Do both have Windows Home Premium 64-bit?

Wrong to keep saying that he needs this that and the other without a few simple tests first. I mean, he'll end up with a new computer before long.

Disconnect all your Drives- DVD/ HardDrive etc, also any printer you may have. Now start the computer and see if it stays on without shutting down. I know you wont be able to see anything, but I'm just determine if it stays on without shutting down, If it still "shutsdown" then we are looking at the MainBoard/CPU/RAM/PSU. Let use know and I'll tell you what to try next.

BTW plz MAKE sure there is nothing more lose on your mainboard-Double check it and make sure no loose screws are shorting your board.Normally I would agree. But when we are talking about the possibility of a cpu running without thermal paste, I think it makes more sense to eliminate that first.Agreed, I was just more concerned about the guy who told him to get a new graphics card and a new motherboard without carrying out simple tasks. I am just suggesting something else he may wish to try, once he has done what you suggested. That would would then narrow it down more. I just thought he, like me. Would automatically make sure that paste was applied and the heatink was in its proper place. (Especially after it became lose)I never said that 100% that he should just something to try first to determine if it is or not.Quote from: squall_01 on April 07, 2008, 04:26:40 AM

Hard to say which had really died that hard on both of the COMPONETS, What I would do is take the RAM out an see if it dont beep. Then if it doesnt probably replace the board. Hard call on this one.

I dont know of any, just that it could be it.

why would you want to disconnect it? Yes lets

Agreed, I was just more concerned about the guy who told him to get a new graphics card and a new motherboard without carrying out simple tasks. I am just suggesting something else he may wish to try, once he has done what you suggested. That would would then narrow it down more. I just thought he, like me. Would automatically make sure that paste was applied and the heatink was in its proper place. (Especially after it became lose)

Hard to say which had really died that hard on both of the componets, What I would do is take the RAM out an see if it don't beep. Then if it doesn't probably replace the board. Hard call on this one.

I bought a DVD RW, and am GOING to install it in my computer which already has a cd/dvd player. I noticed that it doesn't have any jumpers on the back. It's a Lite-On player. Does it matter SINCE its a SATA hookup?You'll need to find out if your MBoard has SATA connectors on board...most newer ones do.
If not you will need an add-on PCI/SATA CONTROLLER card.
After hooking it up it should be PICKED up by the BIOS automatically...SATA drives don't normally USE jumpers, so you can just plug it in and go. The only jumpers I've paid much attention to on sata drives is the 1.5gb limit on some hard drives. But I don't think that's a concern with optical drives. Thanks, its an evga 680i MB, and has an open SATA connections. I wanted to be sure. Thanks!!

i recently came in for help on getting the PC started because nothing was showing up on the monitor. so we bought a new motherboard (same one) and everything works now. but when we tried booting up Vista it would get the stop error message : 0x0000007E

so i researched how to fix this and what we got was that we needed to take out some of the ram. we did take out 2 GB's and and it is installing right now. what do i need to do after we install vista to get the 4gb ram to start working.lol WOW so another error message came up in the middle of installing vista....freaking greeeeaaat. i dont know but I almost feel like giving up. this computer has been a pain to install and the error messages and such dont stop coming. it's pretty ridiculous because everything is installed and working and in the right places.you might want to test your RAM. download memtest86 and create a bootable CD. We have absolutely no idea what hardware is involved here so guessing that Vista is the culprit would be a reach at this point...ok, so i eventually got vista to install but it took a few days. Now it's constantly having problems including the internet explorer stop working and closing out, slight delays, restarting on its own with blue screen of death (shows its dumping PHYSICAL memory) and just other things like ----

i only saw one error code long enough to write it down-- 0x800106ba

dxdiag error

not installing motherboard disc and other installation discs completely

drivers for sound and video card being deleted a little while after installing....

not allowing to get updates for windows vista

security turning off on its own

some points pictures were showing up all messed up or completely black

processor isn't showing up on dxdiag but also has the dxdiag error

as far as my specs go----

intel core quad 2.4 ghz Q6600
8800 gts 640mb graphics card
2gb of ram currently (wasn't working with 4gb to install vista)
ASUS p5n32 sli deluxe motherboard
1000 watt coolmax psu
antec 900 hundred case
160gb HDD


this computer has been realy irritating as far as getting it installed and stuff. now that we got it installed there's even more problems with not being able to run programs/cd's and download updates for vista and just exiting out of internet explorer along with those *censored* RESTARTS.

we are THINKING about hiring a professional to help fix this computer but even we think they won't be able to figure it out. i was wondering if anyone knew what we should do. should we reinstall the whole computer from the very beginning? or reinstall the OS again? i really need help guys...thanks in advance. im depressed.also windows defender isn't working and java won't update (error messages) and it seems as if the video card isn't installing the driver....Did you install the mother board drivers?i was trying to but i couldn't find what exactly they were called on the website. i tried different things but everytime i downloaded something it would come out in a bunch of files and none of them had setup or install. anyway, the cd for the motherboard doesn't work on the computer...Quote

the cd for the motherboard doesn't work on the computer...

announced the availability of the PCI Express Base 2.0 specification on 15 January 2007.[5] PCIe 2.0 doubles the bus standard's bandwidth from 2.5 Gbit/s to 5 Gbit/s, meaning a x32 connector can transfer data at up to 16 GB/s in each direction.

PCIe 2.0 is backward and forward compatible with PCIe v1.x. Graphic cards and motherboards designed for v2.0 will be able to work with v1.1 and v1.0, and vice versa. In some rare cases it is possible that a PCI-E 2.0 card will not work correctly on a PCI-E 1.0a slot. This is only LIMITED to CERTAIN video cards.

The PCI-SIG also said PCIe 2.0 also features improvements to the point-to-point data transfer protocol and its software architecture.[6]

In June 2007 Intel released the specification of the P35 chipset which does not support PCIe 2.0 only PCIe 1.1.[7] Some people may be confused by the P35 block diagram[8] which states the Intel P35 has a PCIe x16 graphics link (8 GB/s) and 6 PCIe x1 links (500 MB/s each), for simple verification one can view the P965 block diagram which shows the same number of lanes and bandwidth but was released before PCIe 2.0 was finalized. Intel's first PCIe 2.0 capable chipset is the X38 and boards are already shipping from various vendors (Abit, Asus, Gigabyte) as of October 21, 2007.[9] AMD started supporting PCIe 2.0 with its RD700 chipset series. NVIDIA has revealed that the MCP72 will be their first PCIe 2.0 equipped chipset.[10]

Thanks michaewlewis

I'm still going to bye a motherboard with PCi-e 2.0 slots

at least that way I wont need to upgrade it, when most graphics cards become PCI-e 2.0

I have a friend whose new car has a built in CD player. It will also accept and play CDs with .mp3 files saved on them as data.


I was organizing some .mp3 files to burn to CD, and now I have a question.

Do these players require all the files to be in the root directory?


In other words, if I organized and grouped the files into sub-directories, would the player be able to find them?

Thanks


It depends on how ADVANCED the player is...
Basic players will probably not be able to see files anywhere but in the root directory.
But I've seen players that can navigate folders as well. Quote from: Deerpark on APRIL 08, 2008, 12:29:40 PM

It depends on how advanced the player is...

Basic players will probably not be able to see files anywhere but in the root directory.
But I've seen players that can navigate folders as well.

Probably be upwards of 150 files. In your experience there is no problem with that.... players will just go through them all?

Quote from: WillyW on April 08, 2008, 12:44:42 PM

Probably be upwards of 150 files. In your experience there is no problem with that.... players will just go through them all?

It should work just fine.

Considering the price of blank CDs you could burn a copy with music in folders as well, just to see if the player will read them.

What?!!? I'm so tight... I squeak when I walk.

Nice, Wally -- too bad it's not the good ol' days when America Online sent out all those introductory floppy disks which we used to reformat and reuse...

Yeah but now it's all those USB flash drives filled with erasable adverts that get erased within 1 second of the drive being received in the mailbox!

Quote

What?!!? I'm so tight... I squeak when I walk.

Nice, Wally -- too bad it's not the good ol' days when America Online sent out all those introductory floppy disks which we used to reformat and reuse...

... (and most likely you don't need to worry about special directories)

With me now?

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With me now?

Sure, we're with you -- we just follow the squeaking...

Hello!

I have ASUS P5B MOTHERBOARD ,I want to use my old hard disk that has IDE and my new hard disk that has SATA,

I have CD write and DVD writer ,They are IDE also

1-The original cable that I have has only two connector, Is it right that I use another cable that has THREE connector? (if there is a cable LIKE that)

2-I have MANY problems when I want to use these hards ,When I want to use my sata
This shows:
NTLDR is Missing

I have windows on SATA,When I use it by old hard disk,It works,But when I use it individually It shows me that massage.

What can I do about this massage?
3-How to connect CD writer and DVD writer?

4-Sometimes my start up floppy disk doesn't know hard disk why?

Thanks

Today I've purchased a brandnew TFT screen to attach to my laptop.
I've noticed that I get "waves" which run horizontally over my screen, it's very visible with dark backgrounds but it also shows up on light backgrounds.

The screen is an Acer AL2206W (similar to AL2216W but no DVI connection), connected via a VGA cable. It's set on 1680x1050 resolution since that's what's recommended on the box and manual. The refresh rate is default, 60Hz.
I know the issue is with the screen since other flatscreens show no waves. I have no other screens, speakers, computers, power sockets or anything else close to it which could interfere with the screen. I've doublechecked the connections to MAKE sure nothing is loose and there are no BENT pins.

I've searched all over the internet for a clear answer to my problem, but these answers don't apply to me.
I honestly don't want to contact Acer tech support about this, I've dealt with them many times in the past and they never MANAGED to give a clear answer to my issues.

Thanks for your help.can you take it back for a refund/replacement?Since I BOUGHT it today, I assume so. But I was hoping I could somehow fix this myself without having to get a new one.do you have another vga cable you can try? or is that not removable? try a different power cord, too.
I haven't tried that yet, I'll give it a go tomorrow since all available wires are in use at the moment.

Just to make sure, flatscreens shouldn't have this wavy problem right? Unless there's a technical problem of course.I've never experienced the waviness you are describing with an lcd monitor. It makes me think you got a bad monitor.
I'm also having trouble finding any information on the Acer AL2206W. It looks like it is only sold in Europe? Where did you get it from?I bought it in Finland. I noticed there is very little information available online about this particular screen, that's why I mentionned the AL2216W as well since it's pretty much the same apart from the DVI connection. It's strange though, even the Acer website has no info on my screen.You may want to consider upgrading to the AL2216W if you return the one you have...i always get a bit nervous about model#'s and designs that have very little info available...

Look at it this way...it may be a blessing in disguise.Myes but it's more expensive and I'm rather short on money...If you can get a refund, you could go with a 19". That would save you even more money and get you a screen that works. It's complicated. I bought the screen from an online shop which delivered it to a local shop for me to pick it up. I'm not sure if they'll have a screen available for me to switch or if they'll have to send this one back first...Haha, I feel so silly! The problem wasn't the screen, it was the powersupply. When I plugged the screen's power cable in a socket in the wall in stead of the powersupply, the problems vanished immediately.

Thanks to everyone who were TRYING to help me figure this out. Your selfless dedication to help others should earn you a medal!Good News Indeed !
Stop by anytime and Welcome Aboard !