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I have a Dell Inspiron B130 laptop and it will not BOOT. When I press the power button the caps lock/ num lock etc lights blink real quick and the power and battery lights turn on but the computer does not boot. Nothing appears on the scree, nothing beeps, and it sounds like nothing is running inside it. Any idea what the problem could be??

THANKS so muchb4 we tell you its dead, POST your computer specs and os system..we might have a better chance of HELPING find a clue. was anything strange or wrong happening before this occurred? did it EVER boot and was it running ok ?

welcome to the forum !

Ok, this started maybe 2-3 months ago with an "electronic scratching" noise coming from the vicinity of the power supply. I don't believe it is fan related, and hopefully it isn't a capacitor. It will respond to CERTAIN actions that I perform like moving the cursor around or increased cpu usage. It will however cease when my video card is under a heavy load, but it does not come from the gpu. The only info I have found about this has been with Mac users, which however I am not. Anyone out there have any ideas as to what is CAUSING this, or how to resolve it?well its definately NOT going to be a capacitor. i WOULD suggest CLEANING ALL the fans in the comp unless you zeroed it down to the one fan making the noise. (you know, take the shot-gun approach, if you dont know which one is doing it, do all of them! )Are you quite certain this is not induction noise being generated by the internal speaker? Have you tried disconnecting it?Sorry for the lapse of time since last posting, but I have been away. I did figure out the problem, only after a capacitor exploded in my PSU. homer...ahem.... just kidding. anyway I got a new psu and no noise is present, except for the normal kinds. Anyways thanks for the help.

Okay, here it is, in a nutshell....

I have not had any audio for over 6 weeks. Computer is still under warranty with Dell. Had to do a LOT of testing/checking myself at first. They sent new speakers; didn't solve it. They sent a techie to install a new sound card....didn't solve it either. Techie told me that I had a couple of choices; I went with the 'least amount of time' one....bought an extra external hard drive (system has room for it) and RAN the disk for the sound card again...still nothing.

System cannot detect the sound card.

Now Dell is telling me that I'll have to back EVERYTHING up, uninstall, and re-install....

Do I REALLY have to do that???

I'm so tired of working on this thing that I could just scream!!Did the sound ever work / if onboard is it enabled in the BIOS? If both of these are false then I'd:

Send it back to Dell for replacement...I KNOW, a PITA
Try another sound card (not likely to work because the other didn't)
Ask for another service call from Dell and have them bring a motherboard

Alan <><

"echie told me that I had a couple of choices; I went with the 'least amount of time' one....bought an extra external hard drive (system has room for it) and ran the disk for the sound card again...still nothing." What's up with that
What type of computer is it, be specific because you need to find out weather the soundcard is part of the moterboard itself or if it is a seperate chip. WARNING if its still under a service contract dont open it because it will VOID your contract.

hi to all
I have the computer which has
160GB SATA HDD,1GB of RAM
Now I have TWO operating system one is windows xp 32-bit sp2 & second is windows xp 64-bit sp1.
I don't know how but when I START xp 32-bit hte error occur that is \system32\ntoskrnl.exe is missing or currept.
I tried to COPY this file from my xp cd.
but problem is there.
Now what may I do?
If I format the C: drive where theos is stored or not.
Pls reply me as soon as possible.
Thanks. Why do you have to OS's?
And If you reformat you will lose everything that includes system files as well as personnel files.
When you reformat and you put the OS CD in and install it the problem would be solved but I wouldn't do this as a first option.
What protection do you have? (Like AVG, Superantiwpyware,...)
Do you have the disk of the OS?
Do both OSs have that same problem?
If you have the disk you can try start -> run -> type "SFC /SCANNOW"
This will check if all windows files are there and will renew them if lost.
You can also try start -> run -> type "CHKDSK /X /F"
Here you will not need the CD but I don't really think that this will fix the problem.
There are still some other ways to solve this problem but first I need an answer at those questions.

Jonas Yes I have Avast Antivirus.
Also yes for I have a disk.
No, there is only problem with 32-bit xp as I say before.
The second is work properly.I want to ask you Jonas that u said for scanning right?
Now the question is How can I do this?
I started in other operating system & then after try but how this possible!!
I don't understand. Sorry but really not understand.
O.K. reply me.So you can't boot in the OS that has a file missing wright?
Than my both suggestions of CHKSDK and SFC / SCannow won't work.
(I think that is the part that you didn't get.)
Quote from: nency.jariwala on July 13, 2007, 02:49:55 AM

Yes I have Avast Antivirus.

I was working on my computer today, it is a windows xp. What happen is i took out the RAM and then put it back in (the same ones) and now there is no signal to the monitor. I have checked all the cords and the computer turns on but there is not signal to the monitor and the RAM sticks become VERY hot when the computer is on (although that may be how they work just thought it was WORTH mentioning). I have no idea what went wrong.You may have unseated your video card playing in there...try re-seating it.Forgive my ignorance, but

re-seat?wherer you grounded when you took the memory out?
as this may be a fundimental FLOOR as you could have damaged you sticks with ESD
All the best
Simshire seat take out the G card carefully then put it back (re-seat)
SimshiAh, thanksturn your pc of first though
lol
SismhiThanks for all the help but is it normal for the RAM sticks to get really hotDid you try reseating the G card?
Simshiyes, i just re seated the G card and it did not help. I also noticed that the computer does not sound like it is fully booting up. Any tips?Mine also says "no signal"

I have replaced the video card...and tried another monitor....it didn't work EITHER...any THOUGHTS?Did you try the onboard Graphics to see if you still get the same problem?

if the problem still persists then all i can suggest is that your memory has gone,
try a different stick of ram,

Simshi

Hi i'm Shannon , and I need some hope. I have some what of a learning disablity and I am going to try to use "dragon naturally speaking preferred 9" to help me in college this fall. I am looking at buying a DELL Inspiron 1520 Notebook. But I need to make sure I'm buying the right sound card to give me the best result for the program. Dell gives me 2 options for sound, which would be better: 1) Intel High Definition Audio 2.0 which come standard or 2) Intergrated Sound Blaster Audigy HD Software Edition which is $25 more? Naturally speaking program requires: 16-bit Creative Labs Sound Blaster, or compatible sound card capable of and set to 16-bit, 11KHz for audio recording. I'm not sure how much info you need about the cpu, but here's some: Windows Vista, Core 2 Duo processer, 2GB memory, & 160Gb hard drive. Please help.Both of those sound cards can easily handle the requirements for your program. And I honestly don't think you'll be able to HEAR a significant difference between the two. So I would go for the basic option.Both sound cards are basically the same, the second is just a fancy version of the first but not really any better.
After looking at some reviews, this is a basic summary of what I have seen.
You need a pretty powerful PC or Dragon will slow it down - you have that.
Creative SB 16 bit is not available any more, it's very old - some people say it needs a good sound card, others say it works FINE with onboard sound like you have. I'd say you'd be fine with standard onboard sound, it's easily the equivalent of an old card like the Sound Blaster 16-bit.
Apparently Vista helps the program work better, so that's good news too.
ONE last thing - apparently a noise cancelling microphone really helps, so you MIGHT want to look at one of those.

My computer is running WinXP Home Edition and has Dual Processors, but is that a waste since I've read here that Home Edition only takes advantage of one?

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/setup/expert/crawford_november26.mspx (Near the End)
http://www.atomicmpc.com.au/forums.asp?s=2&c=21&t=1705&p=0Yup. So, what YA gonna do? So it was just a waste of money? Yep XP home is pretty much a waste of money.Quote from: Deerpark on July 18, 2007, 04:55:50 PM

Yep XP home is pretty much a waste of money.

I am, for the first time, trying to USE the computer for audio recording. It works, but the maximum sound level is pretty soft. I've tried maxing out the volume controls both in the CONTROL Panel audio dialog and in the recording software. Is there a software fix? If I need a pre-amplifier or a different mike, what should I get?

PARTICULARS:
-3 year old HP Intel machine, WinXP HOME.
- Realtek audio card
- Audacity recording software
- Sony ECM-MS907 mike

Thanks,
CSmytheAre you recording directly from a microphone? Turn on the +20 decibel boost. It should be under the advanced sound recording settings.

Hi everyone,
This is my first post here.
I got the same problem and I did tick mic boost, without any result.
I am using Skype with this mic and I asked people, they all say that sound is OK.
When I STARTED using it with all recording software I have including build in MS and camtasia, sound recording are very low. Before I go to check for new mic and maybe preamp, any suggestion?

Thank you
VadimI am sorry, my apologies.
I just checked again and for some reason boost wasn't ticked.
Now I have little background noise, I have to get rid off.
Could be mic. I will let you know as soon as I'll fix that.

Thanks
VadimNext time, remember it's better to start your own thread for your own questions.
Thanks.

Hello, QUICK question.

Today my heatsink and CPU fan just arrived. I was looking and the CPU fan connector, it is a 4 - pin connector, yet my motherboard will only accept 3 pins.

Would it be ok for me to plug it in and leave the 1 extra pin spare? I heard it is not necessarily needed.

=====================
Mobo: ASUS A8N SLI - Deluxe
CPU: AMD Athlon 3700+ 939
=====================If the plug fits and the fan is definitely spinning at the appropriate speed, ie the temperature is at a good LEVEL. Then it should be fine. Wait for an EXPERT, but if the fan is powered then I don't see any issue.Ok. And just a minor question.

I got an anti static wristband today, I was just wandering what to ATTACH the crocodile clip to. I heard a grounding object, but what exactly?Ok its like this the crocodile clip you can just clip it on the pc case to ensure grounding and that is wen your UPS is connected.

Just connect the 3 pin and monitor you fan and your cpu temperature if it stays cool then you can proceed.Yes the clip connects to the case and / or a the PSU.

Shynnie, what do you mean by 'UPS'? You don't need an 'uninterruptible power supply' for this?Quote from: DeltaSlaya on July 19, 2007, 02:48:23 AM

Yes the clip connects to the case and / or a the PSU.

Shynnie, what do you mean by 'UPS'? You don't need an 'uninterruptible power supply' for this?

I exchanged positions (locations) with two computers. They both restated fine in their new positions, except for the mouse on the old IMB computer. I installed a PS2 optical mouse, same one it had before, but this time it lights up, but refuses to perform on my desktop. No cursor, nothing, despite how MUCH I wiggle the mouse. And WITHOUT a mouse there is very little I can do to troubleshoot. What would you do (other than trash the computer)

SandyCould be a bent pin. Check that, you may be able to bend it BACK into place.You could TRY a USB mouse.

I have a system running XP which is a few years old. I have just run up against a game that my card will not support because mine is not shader 1 capable. Could someone review my dxdiag and recommend some specific video cards in the medium price range. I've DONE a little research but would like assurances that what I buy will be compatible and a wise choice.

Thank you in advance.
-Wade Horton

System Information:
------------------
Time of this report: 7/12/2007, 07:54:56
Machine name: BOOTS
Operating System: Windows XP Home Edition (5.1, Build 2600) Service Pack 2 (2600.xpsp_sp2_gdr.050301-1519)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: Gateway
System Model: E-6000
BIOS: Default System BIOS
Processor: Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 2.66GHz
MEMORY: 512MB RAM
Page File: 252MB used, 995MB available
Windows Dir: C:\WINNT
DirectX Version: DirectX 9.0c (4.09.0000.0904)
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
DxDiag Version: 5.03.2600.2180 32bit Unicode

------------
DxDiag Notes
------------
DirectX Files Tab: No problems found.
Display Tab 1: No problems found.
Sound Tab 1: No problems found.
Sound Tab 2: No problems found.
Music Tab: No problems found.
Input Tab: No problems found.
Network Tab: No problems found.

--------------------
DirectX Debug Levels
--------------------
Direct3D: 0/4 (n/a)
DirectDraw: 0/4 (retail)
DirectInput: 0/5 (n/a)
DirectMusic: 0/5 (n/a)
DirectPlay: 0/9 (retail)
DirectSound: 0/5 (retail)
DirectShow: 0/6 (retail)

---------------
Display Devices
---------------
Card name: NVIDIA GeForce4 MX 440
Manufacturer: NVIDIA
Chip type: GeForce4 MX 440
DAC type: Integrated RAMDAC
Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_0171&SUBSYS_87311462&REV_A3
Display Memory: 128.0 MB
Current Mode: 1024 x 768 (32 bit) (75Hz)
Monitor: Plug and Play Monitor
Monitor Max Res: 1600,1200
Driver Name: nv4_disp.dll
Driver Version: 6.14.0010.8198 (English)
DDI Version: 9 (or higher)
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
Driver Date/Size: 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 3955456 bytes
WHQL Logo'd: Yes
WHQL Date Stamp: n/a
VDD: n/a
Mini VDD: nv4_mini.sys
Mini VDD Date: 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 3536768 bytes
Device Identifier: {D7B71E3E-4231-11CF-D457-3BA702C2CB35}
Vendor ID: 0x10DE
Device ID: 0x0171
SubSys ID: 0x87311462
Revision ID: 0x00A3
Revision ID: 0x00A3
Video Accel: ModeMPEG2_A ModeMPEG2_B ModeMPEG2_C ModeMPEG2_D
Deinterlace Caps: {212DC723-3235-44A4-BD29-E1652BBCC71C}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_MedianFiltering
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{212DC723-3235-44A4-BD29-E1652BBCC71C}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_MedianFiltering
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
Registry: OK
DDraw Status: Enabled
D3D Status: Enabled
AGP Status: Enabled
DDraw Test Result: Not run
D3D7 Test Result: Not run
D3D8 Test Result: Not run
D3D9 Test Result: Not run

-------------
Name: NVIDIA GeForce4 MX 440
Device ID: PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_0171&SUBSYS_87311462&REV_A3\4&36560896&0&0008
Driver: C:\WINNT\system32\DRIVERS\nv4_mini.sys, 6.14.0010.8198 (English), 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 3536768 bytes
Driver: C:\WINNT\system32\nv4_disp.dll, 6.14.0010.8198 (English), 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 3955456 bytes
Driver: C:\WINNT\system32\nvsvc32.exe, 6.14.0010.8198 (English), 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 131139 bytes
Driver: C:\WINNT\system32\nvhwvid.dll, 6.14.0010.8198 (), 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 573440 bytes
Driver: C:\WINNT\system32\nvapi.dll, 6.14.0010.8198 (), 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 110592 bytes
Driver: C:\WINNT\system32\nvoglnt.dll, 6.14.0010.8198 (English), 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 5402624 bytes
Driver: C:\WINNT\system32\nvcpl.dll, 6.14.0010.8198 (English), 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 7311360 bytes
Driver: C:\WINNT\system32\nvmctray.dll, 6.14.0010.8198 (English), 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 86016 bytes
Driver: C:\WINNT\system32\nvwddi.dll, 6.14.0010.8198 (English), 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 81920 bytes
Driver: C:\WINNT\system32\nvnt4cpl.dll, 6.14.0010.11014 (English), 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 286720 bytes
Driver: C:\WINNT\system32\nvmccs.dll, 6.14.0010.8198 (English), 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 229376 bytes
Driver: C:\WINNT\help\nvcpl.hlp, 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 169507 bytes
Driver: C:\WINNT\help\nvwcplen.hlp, 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 55444 bytes
Driver: C:\WINNT\system32\nvcod.dll, 1.00.0000.0035 (English), 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 35840 bytes
Driver: C:\WINNT\system32\nvcodins.dll, 1.00.0000.0035 (English), 12/10/2005 03:06:00, 35840 bytes

What game is it? I would compare the reccomendations of the game manufactuer against cards that are compatible wiht your motherboard and price rangeMedieval Total War. I think I want to go with Nvidia because that is what I have the most experience with in terms of driver downloads, but what model? here are some AGP cards to choose from (quite a list) maybe Nick can walk you through some of the choices ?


http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010380048+1069609639&name=AGP+4X%2f8X


http://computer.howstuffworks.com/agp.htm < explains AGP cards vs. PCI


What's your budget?
And what POWER supply do you have?Well Rome Total War 2, which I assume is what you have, needs a 128 MB Graphics card, which you are gonna find most cards should at least have that, we are just going to have to find out if you need an AGP card or PCI, do you happen to know which you have? AGP will be a shorter brown port on your motherboard, as PCI will be long and usually black or white.

This is an AGP slot (Short Brown one)


This is a PCI Express slot
Thanks for the pics! I'll take a look and repost if I have questions.
-whorton

Hey guys, my motherboard broke a while back and having limited choices for a 939 one, i just decided to upgrade...which means I need a new processor and RAM too. I've CHECKED and checked again, and I'm pretty SURE everything is cool, but just want someone to double check and tell me if all this stuff will be compatible. Thanks.

Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16813128034

Processor: http://www.newegg.com/product/Product.asp?item=N82E16819103773

RAM: http://www.newegg.com/product/Product.asp?item=N82E16820145590

Power Supply: http://www.newegg.com/product/Product.asp?item=N82E16817371002

I also have a perfectly GOOD evga geforce 7600gt, a seagate HDD, and an ASUS cd/dvdrw drive, and they've worked fine for me. Thanks.looks real good, nice choicesLooks great, although the one thing I would say is you may want to consider a motherboard with two PCI-Express X16 slots, so you can upgrade to SLI LATER instead of buying a new video card.Alright cool, thanks a lot!

I have a EMachineW3107 that is a couple of years old (I THINK)
Anyways, I can't turn it off by the button, I have to unplug it but when I plug it back in, it's still on, I guess it hasn't finished the shut down command, I really don't know but of course it won't do anything.
It won't shut off, that's my problem.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, CDHey there CD,

I had that problem some years ago and I found that the drastic step of formating and then replacing Windows fixed the problem for me - I was running 98SE at the time. Having said that, it could be a hardware problem rather than software - not much help I'm sorry. For future reference I have found that shutting down running programs using the 'file - exit' function rather than the 'X' in the top r/h corner preserves the integrity of your software and helps to keep your Operating System stable. Some will scoff at that but I have found it works over time. Perhaps see a Tec REGARDING the power down ISSUE before formatting.
Regards
TonyWhy u turn off computer by pressing button.It can't turn off from computer.(start& then shut down)Why u turn off computer by pressing button.It can't turn off from computer.(start& then shut down)

That's the way I tried to shut it down but it wouldn't shut down so I unplugged it. Now when I plug it back it, it's still on, it won't shut down.

Thanks Tony but I can't get back on the puter to do anything with it LOL

CDCan u check the cable of power sw is on theri place (motherboard) or open? Can u check the cable of power sw is on theri place (motherboard) or open?

I'm afraid I don't know where to look, can you TELL me??
ThanksTell the specification of your pc specialy about your motherboard.hey bleachycd
just open your pc case & check the cable as shown in picture is inserted onto the board or not.Just see the power sw & reset sw only

http://www.pctechguide.com/images/tutorials/MBoard/Power.jpgHeya CD.

Are you just pressing the power switch or are you holding it in for a bit? Most BIOS are set to default that a power switch held in for something like 5-6 seconds should force a shutdown. If you've tried that then just ignore me. Sounds like the power switch itself has gone bad...Heya CD.

Are you just pressing the power switch or are you holding it in for a bit? Most BIOS are set to default that a power switch held in for something like 5-6 seconds should force a shutdown. If you've tried that then just ignore me.

Thanks so much, that worked, guess I'm to impatient.

Thanks to everyone with answers!!
CDWill the computer now shutdown normally by clicking start/shutdown?Quote from: Fed on July 18, 2007, 08:35:14 PM

Will the computer now shutdown normally by clicking start/shutdown?

Quote

Sequoia is only showing me about 119 gigs. My PC is showing a 250 GIG HD, with 111 gigs free. I am missing 130 gigs

thanks Anodoin , I tried that, and I am happy to say it shows me as having 0 KB as bad sectors. But sad to say I still dont know where the missing gigs are. I am HONESTLY about to just give up and live with the ones I have.Thanks again everyone, this is a real NICE site here.!!

I have a Toshiba Tecra A8 laptop, the lid latches are broken. I believe I found a place to buy the part from, which wasn't an easy feat in itself. www.sparepartswarehouse.com is the place, good place? no? Anyway, the laptop SCREEN needs to be removed somehow in order to install the part, which I haven't done. I was wondering if anybody in here has repaired theirs, or know how and could explain. There's a semi-local authorized toshiba repair shop, but the part is like $10 and the labor fee is like $90, seems kinda out of whack, so I want to do it myself. Repairing desktops isn't a problem for me, but I haven't really tinkered with laptops until recently and it's pretty new and I don't want to break it yet ...well more so..

I did a BUNCH of googling but haven't really found anything that was much help. There a STANDARD way to take off the screen or does it vary immensely by make/model?The standard on most laptops is to remove the outside case, but there are other parts you need to remove first before doing that.

Google online for a Repair or MAINTENANCE Manual for your particular laptop. They're relatively cheap. Follow the instructions in the manual and you'll be set.Whew, that took forever. Finally found the service manual, was about 5 bux. Looks like it'll look great. Thanks for the tip You're welcome...

I just bought a Dell DESKTOP and since I wasn't impressed with the sound card options that were offered, I selected the default on-board sound COMPONENT with the INTENTION of installing a better sound card in a PCI slot at a future date.

Does anyone know if the on-board sound processor and the sound card will conflict? With both installed, how do I ensure that the PC will use the PCI sound card for audio and not the on-board one? Do I have to disable the on-board one somehow (maybe in BIOS)?

This same question applies to on-board GRAPHIC processors and PCI/AGP/PCI-X graphics cards. Does the PC just know to use the card and ignore the on-board component?

THANKS!You can disable both the onboard sound and graphics adapter in the bios, how exactly you do that depends on the bios.

Can i plug a external hard drive in to a external Usb HUB? I have a usb hub 4 port with the power source from the computer. and the hdd doesnt work with it because it doesnt have enough energy to spin or to work. so i want to buy this eBay: USB 2.0 4-PORT USB HUB WITH EXTERNAL POWER SUPPLY C1 (item 300130217532 END time Jul-20-07 16:56:09 PDT)

it has external ac power so it doesnt use the power from the computer. will this be enough power for my Harddrive does any one have something like that? thanks go BACK to the ebay page where this is located.... on the top where the website url (page) is right click(highlight the page) on it and press copy *

come back here and paste that back in your original post.. Lets see how much juice that thing has ?
(i would think it "should" be ok if there is at least 350 watts)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300130217532

thats the point they wont tell me the watts they are so dumb

but thanks for that info i will look more around
maybe there is betteron further examination of those pics, I am having doubts looking at that particular unit..Looks kinda cheesy to be powering a hard drive... I could be wrong but that don't look so good ~ What type of HDD is this ? ?
If you want it to run properly skimping on an enclosure/ PS is not the way to go...
A good enclosure with PS will be about 35 to 40 bucks.http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-USB-2-0-4-ports-External-Hub-w-AC-Power-Adapter_W0QQitemZ250144013610QQihZ015QQcategoryZ67267QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I bought my case off ebay so it has no "name"(cose 10 bucks) anyways the item above says his port give of "Provide up to 500MA per port sufficient for diverse devices"
is that enough?you need to tell us what hard drive you plan on using (give the specs on this hardware) ? This is going to be close *

ie........

"Some drives only require 1.5 amps to spin up e.g. the Maxtor MaXLine III. The Hitachi 7K500s require 2 amps per drive. The Seagate 7200.8s and 7200.9s require 2.8 amps per drive"

Quote

I bought my case off ebay so it has no "name"(cose 10 bucks)

I have a SY-P4X400 DRAGON Ultra PLATINUM Edition, Pentium 4.

Brand new hd, clean xp pro install, no transferred files.

Also new: two 1 gb sdram modules.

Problem: Computer locks up (no mouse, no keyboard function, have to reboot by shutting off power to it).

First noticed the problem when I thought I'd GOTTEN a virus and tried to run Spybot S&d. It hung. Tried AdAware, it hung. Tried several antivirus, both drive based and online. They all hung.

Someone suggested I check the memory. I ran docmem burn-in but I did not know how long it was supposed to run or if it was ever going to be done. I stopped it after half a day, and 1 loop. No problems.

I can log into XP both safe mode and regular, but can't run any scans, and cannot run disk cleanup utility (from accessories menu). Haven't tried to defrag. I don't think that's the problem, anyway.

I thought maybe the system was corrupt and tried to repair from the install cd. It hung.

I ran the HD manufacturer's (Seagate) diagnostics. The short diagnostic ran fine, showed no problems. The long diagnostic hung at 9%.

What can I do now? What could POSSIBLY be causing this problem?

Thanks.Try running with just one ram stick. If the hangup persists then SWAP the sticks and run with the second. If the hangup occurs again perhaps your ram can be considered error free, but you might just try a different ram stick.

I have a two questions:

1. How do i tell which type of ram i have in my computer?
2. How do i tell how much ram i can have installed on this computer?

Your help is greatly aprieciated!You can see both the type and amount with CPU-Z.

You can also see the amount of ram in you machine by doing the following: RIGHT click My Computer, select properties, select general. In the bottom of the windows is the CPU speed and amount of ram listed.Just to ADD to the above advice . . . if you're looking to upgrade, use the Crucial tool at crucial.com to find out what you need, then either buy it from them or shop around (usually cheaper elsewhere but Crucial are a good brand).My question for Deerpark how can we KNOW which type of RAM whiout opening case(cabinate).
Is this possible. If yes then reply soon.CPU-Z will identify it, as will the Crucial tool I mentioned.
You don't need to OPEN the case.How can WE INDENTIFY the type of RAM.
I mean to say can we indentify the RAM is DDR/DDR2/DDR3/SD/etc......
This is my question.Like Calum said either download and run CPU-Z or use the system scanner at Crucial. Both of these tools will tell you the type of ram installed in the machine.Sorry Calum & Deerpark because I don't know the CPU -Z is a program.So, that is my mistake. Thanks Derpark fro write to download CPU -Z. so, I knew that it is a program.

Ya it is helpful to me. Thank you so much. It will help me much more & so on no words for it.

Once again sorry calum.Pls forgive me. No problem, at least you got what you wanted now.Thank you Calum.
yes I got that is very useful for me.
Thank you sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much.

Hi everyone.
I need advice from experienced sound recording users.
I have background noise after I record (regardless if it is in camtasia, MS built in recorder, or any other recording soft). Is it coming from mic, card itself or DRIVERS?
Just to make it clear:
sound is BETTER when I am talking on Skype using the same mic.
Where would you recommend me to start digging for solution?

Thank you
Vadim
If you have another mic, try that and see if there is the same background noise.
Other than that, try updating your drivers and check Control panel - Sound and Audio Devices - maybe your volume is too loud, or maybe you're recording with the wrong input (I've done that before many times).Skype and other similar programs have code in them to remove the "Static" noise most PC PRODUCE when recording, Ive yet to encounter a PC that has no noise when recording raw data from the Mic PORT, I've have noticed that you get better recordings if you sound card is an add on card rater than mother board integrated , and Laptops suffer from the worst noise.

Could you tell us what kida sound card you have and where it is situated in your PC?, it may simply be to close to a power cable.

you may need to use a noise filter on your recorinds , and aplication i use at my work is called GOLD wave , its has some noise filters built into it.

Hello guys,

My cpu cabinet is conducting current. i don't know why. whenever, i want to put the pen drive in the usb port on the back side of the cpu, i get shock.

I don't know how to troubleshoot it.

can anyone help me.Personally I'd say your case did not have a current going through it and it is instead you that have built up the charge. That being of static electricity.

Though, after unplugging the power and grounding yourself you could quickly look around the case (I assume by cpu cabinet you mean case), and see if there is any contact. The motherboard or PSU may be shorting out but I think that is unlikely as you would be experiencing computer issues as well.Also check the EARTHING at your main power supply where your PC is installed(home/office)
If there are any other pc then check the same problem occur there or not.is this a store bought or home made computer ?
had you or anyone been inside the case recently , messing around ?
was a motherboard recently replaced or handled ?
is there a back-plate on this computer ? (where you make connections ie plug in your keyboard AREA)
is the puter on CARPETING ?If you are getting shocks from the case and your sure its not coming from a cable, if thats the case then your computer case is not earthed properly and you have a wireing problem... or it could be that something Else in the house has shortcirketed and is feeding the earth

i would suggest in order to find out what the problem is you plug the computer in in a different room and see if you still get shocks.There have been many possible resolutions posted - LET's just hope that the OP has taken note of them and can then reply with their thanks.

My FRIENDS cannot hear any sound out of their computer. They bought new speakers, but that didn't work. None of the volumes are on mute, and I updated the VIA AC'97 AUDIO control panel driver, but still no sound. Any ideas?WELL, it seems obvious, but open up the Windows sound control (Doubleclick the icon in the task bar, or check the control panel) and make sure every slider is turned up and unmuted.

I only suggest it because I once REPLACED a sound card over a Wave slider that was turned all the way down.The only thing that is muted is the mic.CompGuy17 ...... when you go into the device manager and look at the sound devices ( expanded) .....are there any exclamation marks showing?

Have you tried clicking start and then selecting run .... and in the run box type ..... dxdiag ....... then when the new window opens, choose the sound test tabs and run the tests.


dl65 No, but I'll try those things when I go back, and I'll let you KNOW how it goes.

I currently have a intel Pentium 3(996MHz) prossesor INSTALLED i was wondering if i could upgrade my prossesor and how to tell if i can.

your help is greatly apreciated!post your what type of motherboard your have &GT; make/ model
if you know the cpu-socket, that would be useful too....Lol is there a way to check what motherboard i have i got this computer used no books with it.Should say on the motherboard itself, though the print MAY be tiny. Also, failing that, if the computer is prebuilt, a make/model and some RESEARCH should tell you what kind of motherboard it has.Else download and run CPU-Z. Once the program opens select "Mainboard". There you should be able to see the MANUFACTURER and model of your MB.

When I'm just surfing the web, the computer automatically restarts and then makes annoying beeping noises and there's a black screen for a while. I have to take the plug out and put it back it and then it restarts and says in a BIOS setup screen: Error Message: During the last bootup your system hung for improper frequency combination. You are now in safe mode. Make sure frequency combination conforms to specifications of your cpu, dimm, and other connected devices.

And it keeps on doing this every once and a while (Like every day). What should i do to fix it?

I have a Sony Vaio PCV-W500GN1 series and OS: Windows XP
Sounds like your BIOS has been supplied improper/extreme settings, perhaps in an attempt to 'overclock' the system?

Wait for an expert but you should be able to resolve this issue by entering your BIOS's setup by pressing the indicated key while the PC is booting. Then find the method according to your BIOS in which to REVERT to "Default (settings)". This will likely resolve the issue, unless of course there are other issues; corruption, overheating, memory?

If you do try this method you may be informed that some settings are invalid, as the 'Default' settings are not always appropriate to your computer configuration. These should be automatically adjusted by the BIOS.I would recomend you enter your bios on the next boot up, your computer shoud show you a message at the bottom off the screen while it boots telling you to press a key normaly F2 to enter set up

Once in the bios find an option to reset to default settings and use it. then save and Exit the bios and reboot the Computer.

If i have time ill look up your computer manual and see if i can Find the Exact setting you should have for it... Do Sony Vios have a service Tag like a Dell PC dose ? if so can you post it here then we can look up exactly what your PC isAlso, regarding the beeps: BEEP.

Quote

BIOS setup screen: Error Message: During the last bootup your system hung for improper frequency combination. You are now in safe mode. Make sure frequency combination conforms to specifications of your cpu, dimm, and other connected devices.

I would recomend you enter your bios on the next boot up, your computer shoud show you a message at the bottom off the screen while it boots telling you to press a key normaly F2 to enter set up

Once in the bios find an option to reset to default settings and use it. then save and Exit the bios and reboot the Computer.

If i have time ill look up your computer manual and see if i can Find the Exact setting you should have for it... Do Sony Vios have a service Tag like a Dell PC dose ? if so can you post it here then we can look up exactly what your PC is

Hi all

I have noticed that it is taking longer to burn a CD. Used to take less than 5 minutes, now is around 10 - 12. Using same kind of blank CD's and have checked for newer drivers. Yes, it gets heavy usage. Is she dying ?

Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.

OS: Windows XP sp2

Compaq Presario FS7600 (about 2 yrs old)
Intel Celeron
2.93 GHz
504 MB RAM

DVD burner is LITE ON DVDRW SOHW-1633S

Thanks in advance.
what software do you use , Nero ? (maybe a laser is going bad?)
also, look at this LINK below *

http://www.schrockinnovations.com/cdrwspeed.phpThanks for the tip.

I use MM Jukebox Plus. (the last version before it became Yahoo! MM Jukebox ... arghhhhhh) I don't care for Nero ... comes with way too many additional things that I have no use for. The fewer bells and whistles, the better. I have simple tastes. CDBurnerXP Pro....FREE.

Keep in mind there are a ton of factors to consider here as well.
Over 2 years you have probably installed/uninstalled many programs. The number of things running in the background will affect burn SPEEDS.
Also the type of data being burned may be different as well...a data CD /DVD will burn relatively quick compared to a DVD movie or a collection of photos or music etc.

I schedule all my burning for right before my last Scotch of the EVENING and never see the machine til morning so i'm unaffected by burn speeds."I schedule all my burning for right before my last Scotch of the evening and never see the machine til morning so i'm unaffected by burn speeds."

F'ing beautiful !!!!

too bad I quit drinking ~

I am trying to install a CD ROM drive and a Hard drive into an old PC... I can hook the 2 peripherals up separately fine, but when I put them together, it doesnt recognize the CD ROM drive... I have changed the JUMPERS, to no avail.. Any help would be appreciated!Pls type your PC specification.
You said you changed jumper,but can you type CD-ROM & HDD jumpers position.
Also check your cable.Sometimes the older machines will have compatibility issues with hardware. If you've changed the jumpers on both machines (one is MASTER, the other slave) and it still doesn't work, other than changing a cable , then it would seem like you're out of luck.

Alan &LT;>< The Specs are pretty much:

PC: It's a built computer, not a specific brand
Motherboard: Abit-VH6
CD ROM Drive: LG GCE-8527B
Hard Drive: It is a 40gb Seagate
OS: Windows 2000 if I could ever get it to work...Do you have only one IDE CHANNEL on this board ? ?
If you have 2 i would suggest hooking up the HDD on IDE1 and the CDROM on IDE2.
Seperate cables...seperate channels.

Visit the MBoard manuf. website for clarification...dbsnipe .......... Just looked at your board and it has 2 ide channels.......
So put the hard drive on IDE 0 ........ set jumpers as primary master , and put the optical drive on IDE 1 ....... and set the jumper as secondary master

dl65

I am building a computer off newegg and have a problem.

Whenever I try booing up to get to Bios I get the stupid 1 long 2 short beep thing.

Which means I have a graphics card problem. I have tried taking it out and putting it back in taking the second one out. Still no idea whats wrong.

I have a Biostar 7300 geforce series 512mb graphics card.

This is my first build BTW and after I finsih posting i will look for mistakes in the CASE...

EDIT: looks fine and DANDY to me... I see no problem at all. Hookups and cords i mean why not just get the thing to post and get her to boot (without adding the vid card yet*)... It should be defaulting to any onboard video if its brand new...then go back after its up and running and install the 7300.........You mean while its still on plug it in?

It doesn't look like my motherboard has a built in video card or plug so Im kinda screwed.snapplekid13 ........... Quote

You mean while its still on plug it in?

snapplekid13 ........... Quote

You mean while its still on plug it in?

No !........ No ! .......... Don't even consider plugging in or unplugging a card while it is still powered up.


dl65

Earlier today I was fitting a new heatsink on my CPU, booted it up to check the temperature and then turned it off, removed the heatsink again to check the thermal paste (make sure it was smoothed out), reinstalled the heatsink (stay with me) and tried to boot it up. While the computer started, the monitor read 'no signal'.

Now the FANS on the case, heatsink and graphics card all whir away, and it still sort of makes computery noises (not as much as it did before, but i guess thats because its not actually running any programs or anything). I've tried using a different monitor and I get the same problem so the monitor is not the cause. I think since the fans and stuff ATTACHED to the motherboard work then it too is fine. I have yet to TEST the graphics card but I was not doing anything to it while changing the heatsink, so I don't think it will be the problem.

Which leads me to the CPU. My friend has suggested I may have fried the CPU with static while changing the heatsink, but as I have no spare CPUs I have no way to check this. I don't know how much of a role a CPU has in computer booting but it still turns on if I remove the CPU, so I think the CPU might be the problem.

I also think the problem may be that the CPU is not actually connected to the computer for some reason. Before the problem happened, when I removed the heatsink the CPU came away with it (stuck to the heatsink due to the thermal paste), despite the handle still being down. When I FIT the CPU the handle still firmly holds it in place, but it still comes away with the heatsink, might this be the problem?

My question is, is it likely that is was static that damaged the CPU? Or might it be something else and the CPU is fine? Is there anyway to check if a CPU is damaged without using another CPU?

Any response would be most appreciated, since as it stands I'm probably going to have to buy new parts, and I'd very much like to avoid that if possible.

My computer specs are

AMD Athlon 64 3000+ 2.0Ghz
2GB DDR3200 400Mhz RAM
160GB HDD
ATI Radeon x1650Pro 512MB Graphics Card

If the "handle" is down, the cpu pins are supposed to be gripped by the socket. Maybe you tore some or all the pins off the CPU? Look under the CPU and see if any are bent or missing.



Quote

My question is, is it likely that is was static that damaged the CPU? Or might it be something else and the CPU is fine? Is there anyway to check if a CPU is damaged without using another CPU?

a credit card can be used to carefully straighten out the 1/4 bent ones but the flat pin could snap rendering total failure......

Who installed that CPU originally ? ?

I don't know how much of a role a CPU has in computer booting

i keep getting an error 'unknown flash TYPE'
what is it and how can i get rid of it
thanks
regards mickcheck and read this , if no help then take out your battery for about 10 minutes, then you will be back to the original bios settings...

http://www.soyousa.com/kb/kbdesc.php?id=37This may not relate to a BIOS flash here...are you talking about in the browser maybe when viewing web pages justmick ? ?

Try to provide more info on your problem so we can help.Quote from: justmick on July 17, 2007, 03:23:52 PM

i keep getting an error 'unknown flash type' it comes up on start up. then won't GO any further. i originaly got a disk error (40) come up, i played around with some jumpers to get rid of a password now i get the error unknown flash type.
what is it and how can i get rid of it
thanks
regards mick

So, I just got my rickety old tower shipped crosscountry to my new home. This machine has been having problems for a while, but it seems the trip was too much for it. It is a Windows XP box, 1.8 GHz, 768 MB of DDR RAM (I think), and a plethora of cobbled together parts.

Here's how it went down.

When I finally got the machine all set up and ready to go, I powered on and received three long beeps and no monitor activity. I played with the RAM and video card a bit, and got this result several more times. Then, powering on turned on the power LED, but nothing else - No HDD spin, no fans. After that, powering on gave me maybe a half-second of activity - CD-ROM light blinked once, fan's turned maybe a half-rotation. Though the power LED was off, I had to do a hard turnoff before I could turn it back on. After this, I went though the computer, checking every connection, giving it a full head-to-toe. I turned it on, and it powered up perfectly. I set it back up straight, and it suddenly died. Now all I'm getting is the power blink from before.

Power supply death, maybe? Those three beeps worry me, though. Best I can tell is that it means my RAM is dead, or my keyboard port is broken.

So, any advice, ideas, etc. would be lovely.Sounds like a simple inability to post, which can be CAUSED by any number of simple (or serious) issues. Make sure everything's seated properly and that all plugs are connected snugly.The OP MENTIONED that they reseated and checked all connections.

My first impression is that this is EITHER a RAM or HDD issue, most likely RAM. May I suggest running Memtest, perhaps with your RAM on another computer? Also you could try slaving the hard drive on another computer and running drive diagnostics. This will help eliminate at most, two components of being at fault.

Wait for an Expert, I'm sure one will reply to this post soon. Perhaps the undetailed Subject is deterring them? I would borrow a known good PSU of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there...you need at least a day of running/powering on/off to test it properly...

While you are in there do some housekeeping with a can of compressed air...clean all heatsinks and fans. Use a QTip to hold the fan blades in place when you are blasting them.

Before re-assembling pick up the case with all cords detached and gently shake it listening for sounds...i've seen these symptoms caused by a wayward screw under the MBoard.

Carefully remove all cards and RAM sticks one by one and re-seat them.

As always when inside the case remove all power sources and take anti-static precautions...

Good Luck and let us know...Quote from: patio on July 18, 2007, 06:04:38 AM

i've seen these symptoms caused by a wayward screw under the MBoard.

Spydsloth,This SUGGESTION re your problem is in the category of'"is it PLUGGED in"? However sometimes one ignores the obvious to one's peril. So having been a frequent user of Maxtor products it has been my EXPERIENCE that they (tech support) are READY willing and able to assist one when problems arise. So have you tried that route?I mention it as THUS far no one has suggested it. truenorthIf it's brand new return it... it may have been installed in a MAC...but that's not what you paid for.
If you have been unable to format it using the suggestions given then take it back.I contacted my vendor and am getting a new one.

Hopefully this next one isn't a dud.

Thanks all.

I have a Canon MP 780 printer and everytime I print, the back of the PRINTED page has "roller" type streaks. Does this mean I need a new roller? How EASY or difficult is that? I've done all the "clean" and alignment steps which all comes out fine except for the streaks on back of the printed page (and a small amount on the front).
Please help.
Thank youHave you changed the printer cartridge?If you're refering to the idividual cartridges then yes. I've changed the ink cartridge whenever a specific color is low. Right now, none are low. Other than that, I have not changed anything else on the printer. That happened to our printer once. Some stuff from the rollers or SOMETHING GOT broken off... but we just got a new printer, so I wouldn't know how to help you.

I began to EXPERIENCE a problem with my Internet connection. On one of my PCs, in the notification area, an icon consisting of TWO monitors with a red "X" appeared with the message: "Local Area Connection: A network cable is unplugged." However, the cable is not unplugged

First, I thought it may be the cable, so I replaced it with another cable I had. No luck.

Then I thought it may be the port on the switch, so I plugged it into one of the other
ports (including the port that the working PC was plugged into). Still no luck.

Next, I checked Device Manager > Network Adapters > INTEL(R) PRO/100 VE Network Connection. There is no exclamation point next to it. Plus, under Properties, it indicates that this device is working properly.

I shut down all my computers, and unplugged the dsl modem and router. I waited a few minutes and then plugged in the modem, followed by the router. Once both of those were fully booted, I turned my computers back on. Still, no connection for the problem PC.

I went back into Device Manager and uninstalled the network adapter. Following this, I went to Add Hardware. The PC found the NEW hardware and installed it successfully. However, immediately upon reinstalling the hardware components, the unplugged network cable icon reappeared.

Following this, I went to Run, typed "cmd" and then "ipconfig." Under Windows IP Configuration, it reads:
"Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection: Media State.........: Media Disconnected." Is this the source of the problem? If so, how do I fix this?

Could be the NIC is bad. Have tried replacing it?Quote from: rampa on July 19, 2007, 03:17:32 AM

"Local Area Connection: A network cable is unplugged." However, the cable is not unplugged

I shut down all my computers, and unplugged the dsl modem and router. I waited a few minutes and then plugged in the modem, followed by the router. Once both of those were fully booted, I turned my computers back on. Still, no connection for the problem PC.

Quote from: rampa on July 19, 2007, 03:17:32 AM

"Local Area Connection: A network cable is unplugged." However, the cable is not unplugged

I shut down all my computers, and unplugged the dsl modem and router. I waited a few minutes and then plugged in the modem, followed by the router. Once both of those were fully booted, I turned my computers back on. Still, no connection for the problem PC.

How sure are you that the port on the router is working? Change routers port. i mean the cable plug the cable on a different port.

Then I thought it may be the port on the switch, so I plugged it into one of the other
ports (including the port that the working PC was plugged into). Still no luck.

hi all.I have a prob with my monitor,the right side of the SCREEN (from the MIDDLE)dispays everything in a colour smt like blue.i had the same prob before ,unistalled and install DRIVERS and it WORKED,but now it came back.i tried the same but nothing.does anyone knows?thnks for ur helpIs your monitor plugged in properly?What drivers did you uninstall and install? The video card drivers?Best thing to test this if you are sure the drivers and connections are all good is to try another monitor on your machine and try that monitor on another machine...

If another monitor does the same thing it's a video card/driver issue...
If the monitor does the same thing on another machine it's a monitor issue...

My cat lay down across the bottom part of my keyboard, and before I could lift him off, the content on my screen was upside down

Restarting and trying to use the system restorer didn't help. The start-up information is the right way up until I get Windows "Welcome", which is upside down, and then everything else is.

Does anyone have any idea how to fix this? Is there a key combination that inverts the screen, and could maybe right it again? Not sure if I'm posting this in the right section - could the software have been upset?

Any solutions, tips or ideas would be very much appreciated!

ClaireCtrl-Alt-Up ARROW- right side up

Ctrl-Alt-Right Arrow- 90 degrees

Ctrl-Alt-Down Arrow- 180 degrees

Ctrl-Alt-Left Arrow- 270 degrees
(If that doesn’t work, TRY Ctrl-Shift-R)

Many THANKS to Frankie and the website for IMMEDIATE solution . Control Alt Up restored my inverted screen to normal. Didn't find these commands in Microsoft list, but maybe I was in too much of a panic. Best, Claire
They aren't Microsoft controls, thats why they wouldn't have been found. Ctrl+Alt+Arrow key is a combination used by many video display drivers to reorient the screen.Thanks, DeltaSlaya . I don't know much about infotech and it's useful to find out that there are more levels of information AVAILABLE than I'm aware of. Best, Claire

A few months ago I bought a new Toshiba Satellite laptop, and so far have been really HAPPY with it (except for Vista compatibility issues with some software). It has two INTERNAL hard drives, 110 GB a piece. I have a lot of songs and pictures, and have almost filled up one of the drives. I am getting warnings about being LOW on hard disk space. A disk cleanup solved the problem for now, but that is just a temporary solution. How do I GET the computer to recognize/allow me to store things on the second DRIVE?

Thanks for your time, any advice is extremely appreciated!Hi which model do you have? can u go in to my computer, is the disk registering
can you get in to it? It's a Satellite A 1350 (I think that was the model number), and the primary drive is Toshiba but the second (empty) one is Hitachi. It shows both of them in the "My Computer" window, but I don't know how to save anything to the second one.
if the drive is unformated then right click the cursor, format as ntfs it probably will become "E" if you already have a dvd claiming the "D"

then on the first drive "c" select a file, right click, copy, then move cursor to the second drive, left click, then left click, make a new folder, name the folder, the click on the new folder, then paste the file into it.

The drives can also be named as well as lettered A,C,D,E,F

Oh good, a simple fix.
Looks like it was just my uncle's laptop that works with the BIOS setting, probably because it's a really cheap, low end budget laptop.
Glad to hear it's fixed up now, and you'll get used to the smaller things soon.
I know when I got my laptop, same resolution on a 15.4" screen, I thought everything was tiny, and almost tried to get a refund and get a LOWER resolution screen. Now, I find myself WISHING I had a higher resolution screen instead. Funny how it works, huh?YEAH I like using a higher res, even if things are tiny, you can see so much more. (Although it probably kills your EYES.)

whenever I TRY to put a dvd (blank or not) it starts makin this sound and it is really LOUD. It is coming from the inside of my computer and it sounds like something is scraping or scratching against something else. The strange thing is, the driver works with cds. Does anyone know what could cause this.

Thanks,

MikeWhat happened before this started?
How old is the drive?what Os are you using?

Reinstall the drive by removing it from device manager and REBOOTING your system, then try a dvd to see if it works.

Btw, Did you try DIFFERENT brands of dvd, and how old is this drive?nvm guys there was a tiny screw caught in it. i dont know how the *censored* it got there but it works now thanks for all your helpFair enough, glad you got it sorted and thanks for posting back with your solution.pretty cool !! he got his problem solved, and he had a screw loose !!

Dear Users
If I have 17'' LCD then is this card is better for most games or 8800GTS is better
The 8800GTS is a much more powerful card, but it's more expensive and NEEDS more power.
Bear in mind it also supports DX10 compared to the 7900GS only supporting DX9, so the 8800GTS is also better for future games.
I hope this helps.I agree with you CALUM, Remember to upgrade your PSU if you haven't my FRIEND didn't...... Not a good story... You guys can guess what happens.

umm i think my father has. I'll have to ask him.Are these MICROSOFT CD's ? ?yes they are legitimate cds of windowsok this problem has been resolved thanx for EVERYONES helpGreat !

Care to share with us what the SOLUTION was ? ?he had some ram issues or something that was conflicting with everything i guessSo it wasn't the hard drive after all ? ?yeh it was lol but the NEW ONE wouldnt install because of a conflict with some ram it was a little more than just the hard drive lolHmmmmmm...

ok so... my brother was installing a new game. it told him to change the color mode. HOWEVER he messed up and selected a unsupported resolution for my monitor. so now when you turn on the computer there is a blank screen. but you HEAR the windows98 login music thing. i know how to fix this if i can see the screen... but i cant see the screen so... how do i get around this.

Edit: i also see the bios load up and every thing untill the windows desktop comes up thats when it goes blank.

PLZ HELP ME
sorry if this is in the wrong fourm

EDIT: oh and the GRAPHIC card is a 3dfx voodoo 1000 when windows is starting just after the bios screen hit you F8 key and then you should see a screen that offers options to enter safe mode. This workds fro Win XP and 2000...

im nout sure waht the key is for win 95 or 98... it might be F5..

once you getinto safe mode cahnge your res to a setting your moniter suports

thanks i am trying it as we speekthanks so much it worked. (i did not realize thats what safe mode is for)

I heard of people getting hard drivs working again sometimes by freezing them. I'd like to know how long I should freeze my faulty hard drive, why freezing it works, and if there is a better alternative.

The hard drive was in my old computer running Win 95 and one day it decided it couldn't read the hard drive.

Any help, suggestions, or the like would be greatly appreciated.I THINK this will answer your question, courtesy of Google: Freeze your hard drive to recover data: Myth or reality?I think you would have better luck removing the platters from the hard drive and putting them in another hard drive of the same MODEL and make. Just make sure you don't get any moisture or dust on the platters.
The better option, which would be more expensive is to pay a professional to do it for you. Do a YAHOO! search for hard drive restoration.
another method in some cases is to transfer the circuit board from a similar drive, there are free recovery tools from here:- http://www.pcinspector.de/file_recovery/uk/welcome.htmThanks for all the help and suggestions.

I took the hard drive out of the freezer, and now the computer won't even recognize it. It's only a 2 GB disk in an old, has-not-been-used-for-a-year (and several years of disuse before that, resulting in HUGE sheets of dust inside) computer that (when it works) SOUNDS like a lawn mower, so it is really no big deal. I think putting the drive in the freezer without a bag was the deathblow....

So, in order to use the computer again, I'd have to salvage (or replace) the hard drive and buy a new fan (the old one died on me, it sticks at one point and must have burnt out the motor). I think I'll try to save/salvage the hard drive just for the fun of it, but I think my old PC's computing days are over.Whenever i have to freeze a drive i put it in a plastic bag and i don't leave it in the freezer more then 20 minutes. It doesn't have to be frozen solid If I did get water on the platters (likely, since I didn't use a bag), is there any way I can reverse the damage?nope not really it is a done deal then.

Quote from: pacorod on July 16, 2007, 01:28:31 AM

Partition MAGIC is recognizing a 160 GB drive, not a 300 GB drive, even though the 300 GB drive is in use.

BIOS version A09, date: 07/07/06
no 64-bit technology capability

1. My computer will not start.
2. It takes at least 3 mintes and hitting the button 10 times to turn on.
3. When it turns on, it opens up BOIS.
4. Sometimes it shuts down within seconds.
5. Usually shuts down after a minute if no activity besides changing tabs.
6. Will shut down immediatly if I press any buttons or try to exit.

Sony Vaio, Windows XP - and I can't find the specs on it - back says Model # PCV-7752

Help PLEASEIf your computer is not starting because of improper CPU SPEED the BIOS will usually reset it. If you can get into the BIOS; try change the settings to 'Default', or 'fail-safe'.

May I suggest also: puterhope.com/cleaning.htm.Thank yoiu for your quick response... i am freaking out with all the data I have on that cpu. I disconnected it so I could plug this one in.

1. When it does decide to turn on - it goes straight to BOIS.
2. When it does allow me a 30 - 60 seconds in BOIS, prior to automatic SHUTDOWN, it does not let me make any changes. If I click on anything it will shut down at that moment usually, but the couple times it stayed on, when I went to SAVE whatever - it shutdown at that point in time.

I am going to hook that cpu up again and use your suggestions. I will report back in the am or tomorrow EVENING (it's 3:45am here, have to be at work at 8:00am)
I am fustrated and scared everything is going to be lost. I have been doing everything I can think of since 8:45pm!

I even just read through all 435 posts on this site... lol... that's how much this is affecting me.

Thank YOU so much for your quick response and I will respond again tomorrow (Friday).. if you think of anything else... just post it and I will check this site prior to me coming home. Thanks again... so much!Don't get too frustrated, all your data is on the hard drive, not the CPU. Even if you cannot get the computer to start, the hard drive can always be installed into another computer and your data retrieved.

Hi,

I just purchased a pci-e CARD (MSI Radeon X1550). I use windows vista, motherboard MSI RS480M2. When I run windows in safe modus or when the drivers are not installed, I get signal. When I install the drivers (i've tried both the one windows finds and the newest from msi site), there is no signal when it gets to windows. I've tried SEARCHING for it, but i mostly FIND 'try the newest driver'.

Before this graphics card, I USED the onboard VGA. I thought it may have to do with disabling the onboard VGA in the BIOS. I'm not sure how to do it and in the BIOS it already says it looks first at the PCI-e.

Do you KNOW anything I can try?
Thank you very muchYou may have gotten a faulty card...try it in another machine to make sure.
The card should have shipped with a driver CD...use these only for now. New drivers are not always the better drivers.

Hi there,
My P4 (running XP home) doesn't recognise an IPOD plugged into the USB, said it needed USB2 - thought it already had that but oh well, so I had it fitted at a dealer but the IPOD is still not recognised and now neither is my digital camera. Any ideas?
Regards
TonyMorning Tony, check these out *
fun little upgrade projects, if your so inclined.......... good luck...
if you decide to try this, we can help you on installing...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Description=usb2&x=18&y=34Quote from: moriah on July 18, 2007, 01:00:23 AM

so I had it fitted at a dealer

Morning Tony, check these out *
fun little upgrade projects, if your so inclined.......... good luck...
if you decide to try this, we can help you on installing...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Description=usb2&x=18&y=34

Hey there. Had a USB Controller Card fitted. Have 2 cameras, 1 Sony, 1 Kodak. Both worked before the upgrade now only the Kodak works but not the Sony. Ipod still not recognised and error message saying it needs a USB2 Upgrade when the Ipod is inserted into the USB.

I have a sony VAIO I just installed another sound card into it. I PUT it in the right slot it even READS inside my computer the card is a CREATIVE soundblaster PCI. I ran a cord up to the Cd rom drive from the soundcard its in correctly. I switched from my built in soundcard to the soundblaster and hit play in my windows media playier from the device manager and all I got was crackling and static. I made sure that the mute BUTTONS were all unchecked. I have 3 places in the back of the soundcard I tryied all of them with my speakers to see if my speakers would play when I did use the right port I just got crackling. Also I updated my driver in it. Is their anything else I could be missing? I heard you can use a command in the command prompt to make sure its TURNED on inside your computer ,but I'm not sure what it is. Could I have some help please? Also I checked the cord running from the CD rom drive to the soundcard it looked ok but I replaced that anyways with a new one with the same results.This is gonna sound weird but i get exactly the same thing I only know how to put up with it lol / stop it for a hour or so , if you have 5.1 , or 7.1 you should be able to choose how many speakers you want your sound coming out of in your separate settings for your sound blaster.... click them on and off and it will go back to normal for a while , im sorry i couldn't be of more help i just wanted to give you my sympathy on this matter because it is extremely annoying , lets see if anyone comes along and trys to give us a hand lol


Tony Is the original sound card built in on the motherboard / did you disable it in the BIOS?

Alan <>< I know i did fully disabled..... Unhook the CDRom from the sound card....unless you are running Windows95...

I bought a new SATA HARD Drive, and I want it to be secondary to my first hard drive. After I connected the device to my computer, how do I install it so I could see it in the "My Computer" folder? I'm also having problems setting it up on the Bios. Is your first hard drive IDE or SATA? What is the make and model of your computer or motherboard? Do you have some documentation on the BIOS of your system? Have you visited the website of your computer or motherboard manufacturer for info? Your OS?

Can you tell if the drive is spinning when you turn on your computer? Did your computer do anything different when you first turned it on after installing this SATA drive?If you have 2 Sata drives?. Your Mobo should indicate sata 1 and sata 2 connection by each of the CONTROLLERS on the mobo, which ever you want to be the master USE sata 1,
Simshi
The drivers need to be installed and the drive needs to be partitioned/formatted before Windows will recognise it...use the CD that shipped with the drive,